This is my process for developing a hunting load for my Remington 700 30-06. I work up 5 different loads using IMR 3031 powder and Serria 150gr Game Kings.
Easily got my thumbs up! No stupid or redundant music. Provided useful and detailed information. Just an overall down-to-earth video. Thank you for sharing
Here it is 2021, I haven't reloaded for about 15 years. I was looking for a refresher. I love the COMMON SENSE SAFETY information you mentioned for the beginners and the rest of us. Developing a safe step by step procedure is key to consistency . Great video
Enjoyed the video. Great for new reloaders to learn how to do it properly. Greater for those who have done it for awhile but can’t seem to grasp why they don’t get consistent readings. Good job
I use IMR4350 or IMR4831, have had the best accuracy & velocity from these 2 powders for 50yrs. None of the newer powders seem to work as well. Love the old manuals. Have the Lyman 47th on the bench right now. Love Your Great Attitude too. Great Channel, Thank You
I've used 4350 and 4831 for years but they work best on heavier bullets. Those two powders can't push the heavier bullets to the same velocity as 3031 can push a 150 grain bullet. I have loaded ammunition is the safe that is loaded with 150 grain bullets but I feel I have wasted the components by loading such light bullets. I may pull all the bullets and reload the cases with 165 grain bullets.
Great video! I'm just starting to learn about reloading and your method of instruction is clear and concise. You've also gone above and beyond with the extra tips to help not confuse one's self while they reload different loads. Thank you it was very educational and I'll definitely be revisiting when I do really get going on reloading myself.
I don't mean this as a criticism at all cause I have grown up and been in a Baptist church my entire life (9 months before my birthday to be exact), and I swear I could tell you are a preacher without it even being in your name! Funny how preachers "expound" on things a certain way! Great video by the way!
Great info. I agree with your loading manual statement. My Hodgdon # 26 was my very first manual and Lee came out with a reloading manual several years back. Before the Lee came out, the Hodgdon was still my go to manual for that reason on powder selection and with the Lee manual as well. I'm old school, so I don't have to worry about the new calibers. You made me pull out my Lee reloading manual, lol and it lists the 3031 for the 150 and 165 jacketed bullets. I've never used 3031, but I recently bought a 22-250 and was going to give it a try until the reloading store told me that it wasn't very funnel friendly and that discouraged me from buying it. Loading for 30 years, I use those Lee cups as well. When checking the depth, I was shown and and still do, use a sharpie, so the bullet is completely black. I use a marker and write on the case itself what the charge rate is. I have a dedicated shell holder for each powder I use. Different bullets wouldn't be an issue, since I've written the charge rate on the case itself and that can be cleaned off to be used more than once. On the RCBS primer tray that's including in the reloading kit, I use a pair of tweezers to transfer the primer over to the loading press itself, so I'm not touching the primer at any time. I also count the number of primers as well, so you've got my support on that one also. And last but not least as your die set shows, I highly recommend full length sizing the brass, over neck sizing from my own personal experience as well as a bench shooter saying those who neck size brass being a newbie. lol
Love the comment, “You’d be surprised!” It is amazing how you can be loading 3 cartridges EXACTLY the same, and on the 3rd one, you blank out, and forget if you are charging 50 grains or 51 grains!!
Just found this video as I'm looking for guidance on reloading 30-06. I like your style. One point about using paper and pencil method. You will have those notes in the future if you squirrel them away. We all get older and at some point perhaps 47.5 or even 45.0 doesn't look so bad. 😁
Great help with the 30/06 thanks. The only thing I think you should be doing is use a wrench on the die not the channel locks, they will mar up the die nut.
@@garywoodlief1976 ..... GGG , so what ? I can imagine what your equipment looks like. Just as easy to reach for a wrench than a tool that will mar the nut.
3031 in my understanding is about the fastest burning powder that can be used in a 30-06. I used it and you really need to watch your pressure signs. I would recommend 4895 or 4064 over 3031 for the 30-06.
Here I am, a preacher on my day off, looking for videos on how to reload 30-06 as I begin this hobby. I couldn't have picked any other video if I had tried 🤣.
Wow this is alot more complicated than I thought. I thought you just filled up the shell with powder, pressed the bullet in and done. To bad it takes this much precision and to bad I was thinking so uneducated on this. I thought this would be a really economical way for me to get cheap ammo, but watching this.....I'll just pay for it at the store. Lol
It's still much cheaper but it can be dangerous if you don't pay attention. Precision is where you get your accuracy, you can do it much faster if accuracy isn't your goal.
Thank you, very informative! Question on your performance testing technique - how quickly do you shoot your groups, time between shots? Wrt barrel temp. Thx
Did you neck size or full length resize? Also, how far off the lands is your bullet at factory length? I neck size brass that was fired out of and going back in specific rifles, because it is fire-formed to that rifle's chamber. Helps accuracy a great deal
I find that bullets of 165 grains and 180 grains make better use of the .30-06 cartridge case and it's capacity. On the other hand, there is no reason under the sun to not use reduced power 150 grain loads in .30-06 when the game is small deer under 200 lbs at ranges of 200 or yards and less. Usually a lot less. Loads duplicating the old .300 Savage or maybe the .308 Winchester are easy from a .30-06 rifle, and both .300 Savage and .308 are deer killing machines in their own right.
I've always shot flat and fast so lighter bullets (150s) were my choice. But I also have flat county and I have taken several deer and coyotes in the 300-400 yard range. The flatter trajectory makes yardage less of a factor. In the woods however, none of that is necessary.
Powders like IMR 3031 that max out at around 50.0 grains are darned economical. Personally I prefer IMR 4064 in .30-06 with reduced load 150s. 48.0 grain charges equal about 7 boxes of ammo per pound of powder. I personally have found that for a deer load in .30-06, a 150 grain bullet that just about equals military ball of 2700 FPS is plenty of sauce for average deer at average ranges. Slow it down and waste less meat 🍖. Full throttle .30-06 with 150s is just a mess that you don't need.
Everyone on the forums was raving about H4350 for 180 grain bullets. I have about 10 pounds of Varget but people say Varget is good with 150 grain or lighter. I prefer 180s in a .30-06. Any thoughts on powder choice?
H4831 is my go to for a lot of rifle cartridges including 30-06. Works for a very wide range of cartridges and bullet weights. I shoot a 200gr soft point with 57gr of it in my 06. For a 180 you can load up to 60 or so. It’s really hard to overpressure with a non magnum cartridge using 4831 and it gets good velocity too. Very temp stable powder.
Im brand new to reloading, im just curious why 150gr over 180gr? Also curious (i need to just google it) but are there any real differences between once fired brass and say 3-4 times fired. As long as theres no pressure signs?
Your Lyman reloading manual will tell you the OAL should be 3.200" max. for those bullets. I'm sure your loads will work but if you are using the book it may be important to pay attention to it.
Why do you chamfer and deburr if you didn’t trim the brass? 3031 is an odd choice for 150 gr. bullets just sayin… If you crimp you need to trim . If the bullet does not have a cannelure , it’s best not to crimp. Use a “control bullet” to locate the lands and set C.O.A.L that way.
I am a long time reloader and I don't understand why someone loads a 30.06 with 150 grain bullets. I now seek a good sectional density in a bullet for the rifles I reload and a 150 grain in a 30 caliber does not give me the sectional density I want. Just because it is fast does not make it better.
This is why bullets come in multiple weights. I dont like slow bullets that drop or scope turrets to turn or hold over hash marks. With 150's I can be 1.7" high at 100 and only be 7" at 300. That suits my purposes and I dont loose any deer with them.
Just an observation...primers do make a difference. Especially when you are working up a load from printed load data. They are included in the "recipe" for a reason. And that reason is not because they just "happened to be available" at the time. That's an important point for an "instructor" to emphasize.
I know that many people like to use 150 grain bullets in the 30-06 but I don't understand why. I use a 30-06 for a lot of hunting both deer and elk so I don't much care for the use of bullets as light as 150 grains in the 06. If I want that light a bullet I'll use a different caliber of rifle. Velocity is a wonderful thing but it's not the only thing to look for in a good hunting load. Remember that the faster a bullet goes the faster it slows down.
They shoot flatter than 180' gr bullets and they're plenty big enough for deer size game. Sight in at 1.7" hight at 100 yards and be dead on at 200 yards and only 7" low at 300 yards.
Dude, you're putting a live round in your rifle in the house. I could tell you thousand reasons why that's stupid. No you don't test your COAL by putting a live round in the gun and closing the bolt.
Dude this video was far from great, but putting a bullet in a chamber means nothing unless some one pulls the trigger...I have over 5 guns in my house with a bullet in the chamber and they have never gone off HMMM think abut it...PS don't try to break in to my house.... Jut saying for a thousand reasons......
yea every guns loaded anyways whats the big deal treat it like it is even if it is or not and you will literally never have an issue it all comes down to user error the the machine
Easily got my thumbs up! No stupid or redundant music. Provided useful and detailed information. Just an overall down-to-earth video. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for the kind words
Here it is 2021, I haven't reloaded for about 15 years. I was looking for a refresher. I love the COMMON SENSE SAFETY information you mentioned for the beginners and the rest of us. Developing a safe step by step procedure is key to consistency . Great video
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed the video. Great for new reloaders to learn how to do it properly. Greater for those who have done it for awhile but can’t seem to grasp why they don’t get consistent readings. Good job
Glad you enjoyed it
I use IMR4350 or IMR4831, have had the best accuracy & velocity from these 2 powders for 50yrs. None of the newer powders seem to work as well.
Love the old manuals. Have the Lyman 47th on the bench right now. Love Your Great Attitude too.
Great Channel, Thank You
I like 4350 as well, thanks for the kind words
@@preachersdayoff I was "put on" to your channel by a text from "CWLongshot".
I'm enjoying it very much, Thank You
@@walksfletcher we won't hold your friendship with CW against you. Glad you are enjoying it around here.
I've used 4350 and 4831 for years but they work best on heavier bullets. Those two powders can't push the heavier bullets to the same velocity as 3031 can push a 150 grain bullet. I have loaded ammunition is the safe that is loaded with 150 grain bullets but I feel I have wasted the components by loading such light bullets. I may pull all the bullets and reload the cases with 165 grain bullets.
Thank you ! I appreciate how precise and informative this was. Your fail safe information and your explanation of the process and why and how!
Thanks, glad I could help
Great video! I'm just starting to learn about reloading and your method of instruction is clear and concise. You've also gone above and beyond with the extra tips to help not confuse one's self while they reload different loads. Thank you it was very educational and I'll definitely be revisiting when I do really get going on reloading myself.
Thanks, I'm always glad to help
I like your safety precautions good work.
I don't mean this as a criticism at all cause I have grown up and been in a Baptist church my entire life (9 months before my birthday to be exact), and I swear I could tell you are a preacher without it even being in your name! Funny how preachers "expound" on things a certain way! Great video by the way!
Haha! That's two funny, an exposition of 30-06 reloading.
Thank you, brother. A really clear video. Spokane, WA appreciates you.
Great info. I agree with your loading manual statement. My Hodgdon # 26 was my very first manual and Lee came out with a reloading manual several years back. Before the Lee came out, the Hodgdon was still my go to manual for that reason on powder selection and with the Lee manual as well. I'm old school, so I don't have to worry about the new calibers. You made me pull out my Lee reloading manual, lol and it lists the 3031 for the 150 and 165 jacketed bullets. I've never used 3031, but I recently bought a 22-250 and was going to give it a try until the reloading store told me that it wasn't very funnel friendly and that discouraged me from buying it. Loading for 30 years, I use those Lee cups as well. When checking the depth, I was shown and and still do, use a sharpie, so the bullet is completely black. I use a marker and write on the case itself what the charge rate is. I have a dedicated shell holder for each powder I use. Different bullets wouldn't be an issue, since I've written the charge rate on the case itself and that can be cleaned off to be used more than once. On the RCBS primer tray that's including in the reloading kit, I use a pair of tweezers to transfer the primer over to the loading press itself, so I'm not touching the primer at any time. I also count the number of primers as well, so you've got my support on that one also. And last but not least as your die set shows, I highly recommend full length sizing the brass, over neck sizing from my own personal experience as well as a bench shooter saying those who neck size brass being a newbie. lol
I also have accurate IMR3031 loads for 223, 22-250, 243, 308, and 300 blk. It is a very versatile powder for small to midsize cartridges.
Liking the methods you developed that help preclude making mistakes. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Love the comment, “You’d be surprised!” It is amazing how you can be loading 3 cartridges EXACTLY the same, and on the 3rd one, you blank out, and forget if you are charging 50 grains or 51 grains!!
True!
I need my bench to look as neat and organized as yours, great video!
That’s an old video, it’s a junk heap right now.
Great video. I like the organization you put into reloading.
Thanks for the video, looking into reloading myself and love how you explain each step and simplify it.
All the best from Australia
Very process oriented. Reminds me of a Dirty Harry quote. “A man’s got to know his limitations”.
Hahaha that's a great quote
excellent tips on fail safes and quality checks Organization and routine!!
Thanks Wayne
Good video. I have been reloading for years and still take safety breaks. Just to make sure.
You can never be to safe
Just found this video as I'm looking for guidance on reloading 30-06. I like your style. One point about using paper and pencil method. You will have those notes in the future if you squirrel them away. We all get older and at some point perhaps 47.5 or even 45.0 doesn't look so bad. 😁
I have a box full of notes. They come in handy.
Wow great video. Very organized
Thank you 😊
Old school! Love it thanks for the video..
Glad you enjoyed it, Mark
Great video! Thanks for your input.
Glad it was helpful!
Tip: I mark the rear of the case with different colored sharpies then on the data sheet I put a dot in the info for each particular load .
60yrs ago My Dad used red & black markers and "stripped" the case head to differentiate loads when testing. I use to do it with 4 colors too.
I have done the same thing for years with all my reloads, especially .357's.
Thank You, Preacher. Appreciate you. God Bless!
Thanks for the encouragement Daine
My Lyman 44th edition says 42-50 grains of 30-31 shooting the 150 grain Core-Lokt. Nice video, preach
Great help with the 30/06 thanks. The only thing I think you should be doing is use a wrench on the die not the channel locks, they will mar up the die nut.
@@garywoodlief1976 ..... GGG , so what ? I can imagine what your equipment looks like.
Just as easy to reach for a wrench than a tool that will mar the nut.
Gary Woodlief ....took off like a sissy
Sir. Thank you very much for this great video.
Thanks for watching
Very good teaching, thank you.
Thanks for watching Charlie!
3031 in my understanding is about the fastest burning powder that can be used in a 30-06. I used it and you really need to watch your pressure signs. I would recommend 4895 or 4064 over 3031 for the 30-06.
Correct. But I already have accurate loads 223, 22-250, 243, 300BLK, 308, and 30-06. I use 3031 as an all around powder many of the calibers I shoot.
Very good process
Thanks
Thanks, you would have made a great pilot. No mistakes.
Glad to help
So helpful. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching!
Here I am, a preacher on my day off, looking for videos on how to reload 30-06 as I begin this hobby. I couldn't have picked any other video if I had tried 🤣.
Hahahaha glad I could help a brother out
Nice vid, one suggestion I have is to get some spanners for those lock nuts instead of using sharp pliers
You're right, I'll keep an eye out for some.
I Was thinking the exact same thing. You must be a mechanic too lol
Wow this is alot more complicated than I thought. I thought you just filled up the shell with powder, pressed the bullet in and done. To bad it takes this much precision and to bad I was thinking so uneducated on this. I thought this would be a really economical way for me to get cheap ammo, but watching this.....I'll just pay for it at the store. Lol
It's still much cheaper but it can be dangerous if you don't pay attention. Precision is where you get your accuracy, you can do it much faster if accuracy isn't your goal.
Pretty cool your parents bought you a rifle for graduation. That made me happy, pretty cool.
My parents tried to raise me right, they did a pretty good job for what they had to work with. 😉
THANK YOU GREAT VIDIO, BILL
My pleasure Bill.
Great informational video.
Thanks, it means a lot
You might be loading a 30-06 . You said your taking the 300 Wby. out this year hunting! don't be scared ! haha
Thanks for the video buddy ...
Thank you, very informative! Question on your performance testing technique - how quickly do you shoot your groups, time between shots? Wrt barrel temp. Thx
Depends on the outside temps. Usually no more than a minute or so in the hot summer and then let the barrel cool between groups.
Thank you Sir
If you want a good complete load manual, get a book from Lee Precision.
The lee book also gives info to match their dippers in cc's
Good video, but where are your safety glasses ? I had one "mis-fire" in 20 years, but ya never know when it could happen.
Great video, thanks! But..... How did they shoot? was there a huge difference between the loads? how did they group?
Here's the range test video. I shot 2 8pts with them and they worked great. ua-cam.com/video/4X51nIh8iqs/v-deo.html
Nice video man
Thanks for watching
nice work!
Meticulous, but good info. My Elk load is a 180 gr SP bullet for 30-06 and 150 gr SP for .308
Thanks Raymond!
go video, like the 06 round. like putting a charge 7 in a 155mm how.
Did you neck size or full length resize? Also, how far off the lands is your bullet at factory length?
I neck size brass that was fired out of and going back in specific rifles, because it is fire-formed to that rifle's chamber. Helps accuracy a great deal
I full length resize. I have no idea where the lands are in relation to factory ammo. Their length and bullet ogive very greatly.
I find that bullets of 165 grains and 180 grains make better use of the .30-06 cartridge case and it's capacity. On the other hand, there is no reason under the sun to not use reduced power 150 grain loads in .30-06 when the game is small deer under 200 lbs at ranges of 200 or yards and less. Usually a lot less. Loads duplicating the old .300 Savage or maybe the .308 Winchester are easy from a .30-06 rifle, and both .300 Savage and .308 are deer killing machines in their own right.
I've always shot flat and fast so lighter bullets (150s) were my choice. But I also have flat county and I have taken several deer and coyotes in the 300-400 yard range. The flatter trajectory makes yardage less of a factor. In the woods however, none of that is necessary.
Powders like IMR 3031 that max out at around 50.0 grains are darned economical. Personally I prefer IMR 4064 in .30-06 with reduced load 150s. 48.0 grain charges equal about 7 boxes of ammo per pound of powder. I personally have found that for a deer load in .30-06, a 150 grain bullet that just about equals military ball of 2700 FPS is plenty of sauce for average deer at average ranges. Slow it down and waste less meat 🍖. Full throttle .30-06 with 150s is just a mess that you don't need.
I feel the same way
Everyone on the forums was raving about H4350 for 180 grain bullets. I have about 10 pounds of Varget but people say Varget is good with 150 grain or lighter. I prefer 180s in a .30-06. Any thoughts on powder choice?
H4831 is my go to for a lot of rifle cartridges including 30-06. Works for a very wide range of cartridges and bullet weights. I shoot a 200gr soft point with 57gr of it in my 06. For a 180 you can load up to 60 or so. It’s really hard to overpressure with a non magnum cartridge using 4831 and it gets good velocity too. Very temp stable powder.
IMR 4064
Update: H4350 is the one. Varget was not impressive nor was IMR 4350.
@Drivapete that is what I use in my savage 1963 year. Very accurate.
3031 loading it in a 3006. All the loading data I can find is for 100 and 110 grain bullets but nothing in your heavier to load in a 30-06 using 3031
Look in the older manuals. It is used up to 150 gr bullets.
Nice vid. preacher! Stop apologizing for being old school, I hate burying my face on a cellphone. BTW I don't wear a helmet while riding a bike.
Im brand new to reloading, im just curious why 150gr over 180gr? Also curious (i need to just google it) but are there any real differences between once fired brass and say 3-4 times fired. As long as theres no pressure signs?
150 shoots flatter and eliminates the need to range a deer out to 300 yards. Brass works until it weakens and splits.
What scale are you using
Franklin Arsenal you can usually find them online for around $35
Your Lyman reloading manual will tell you the OAL should be 3.200" max. for those bullets. I'm sure your loads will work but if you are using the book it may be important to pay attention to it.
I have great results with this process
Where did you get the chart you checked for the case length?
It came with my RCBS case trimmer.
Nice! Ok I will check to see if it is on the RCBS site. Thanks
do you have loading data for 30-06 180 grains with IMR-3031?
Why do you chamfer and deburr if you didn’t trim the brass? 3031 is an odd choice for 150 gr. bullets just sayin… If you crimp you need to trim . If the bullet does not have a cannelure , it’s best not to crimp. Use a “control bullet” to locate the lands and set C.O.A.L that way.
Make a video on it and lets see who watches
@@preachersdayoff “There are none as blind as those who refuse to see…”
@@Nanker63 Yeah, and experts are on every corner
Is there a parts list you have?
Sorry but I do not
old fashion
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks
I am a long time reloader and I don't understand why someone loads a 30.06 with 150 grain bullets. I now seek a good sectional density in a bullet for the rifles I reload and a 150 grain in a 30 caliber does not give me the sectional density I want. Just because it is fast does not make it better.
This is why bullets come in multiple weights. I dont like slow bullets that drop or scope turrets to turn or hold over hash marks. With 150's I can be 1.7" high at 100 and only be 7" at 300. That suits my purposes and I dont loose any deer with them.
PS, try a load for a M1, 150 Gr FMJ, 44. gr AA2520.
Also look up your rifles twist rate match it too your bullets
Most modern 06's are the same
My friend he makes his own bullets
I've got some home cast bullets
Oh
Just an observation...primers do make a difference. Especially when you are working up a load from printed load data. They are included in the "recipe" for a reason. And that reason is not because they just "happened to be available" at the time. That's an important point for an "instructor" to emphasize.
Point taken
@@preachersdayoff
It's all good 👍
I thought you didn't want any crimp on 30.06. Thar's what I was told. Hmmmm
I put a light crimp on everything
I know that many people like to use 150 grain bullets in the 30-06 but I don't understand why. I use a 30-06 for a lot of hunting both deer and elk so I don't much care for the use of bullets as light as 150 grains in the 06. If I want that light a bullet I'll use a different caliber of rifle. Velocity is a wonderful thing but it's not the only thing to look for in a good hunting load. Remember that the faster a bullet goes the faster it slows down.
Flat trajectory out to 300 yards is perfect for whitetail hunting
I was just wondering why you are loading 150 grain bullets in your 30-06?
They shoot flatter than 180' gr bullets and they're plenty big enough for deer size game. Sight in at 1.7" hight at 100 yards and be dead on at 200 yards and only 7" low at 300 yards.
"Reloading 30-06 Start To Finishexcept
Except....
So not start to finish
What did I leave out?
Dude, you're putting a live round in your rifle in the house. I could tell you thousand reasons why that's stupid. No you don't test your COAL by putting a live round in the gun and closing the bolt.
I always love it when a UA-cam safety officer stops by to tell me how stupid I am. I bet you ride a bicycle and where a helmet.
I'm not saying you're stupid, but what you're doing is stupid. It's a free piece of advice you can do whatever you want with.
Tanks four shareing you're noledge of the english wit may.
Dude this video was far from great, but putting a bullet in a chamber means nothing unless some one pulls the trigger...I have over 5 guns in my house with a bullet in the chamber and they have never gone off HMMM think abut it...PS don't try to break in to my house.... Jut saying for a thousand reasons......
yea every guns loaded anyways whats the big deal treat it like it is even if it is or not and you will literally never have an issue it all comes down to user error the the machine