You do a good job teaching people to do this stuff. We need more people like you to show people how to do this because it’s really cool what you do and what you do with engines.
Thanks, that's been the main goal of the channel.:) As these engines are getting rarer and the same for the people that work on them, information is getting harder to find.:) With this channel I try and make it easy for the average guy to tune and rebuild them.:)
IIRC the injectors were the same physical dimensions for 53’s, 71s, and 92s, only the amount of fuel injected differed, and that was decided by the plunger And bushing used. (6 months in the fuel pump room). As an apprentice I did my time on the cylinder head bench too, overhauling cylinder heads. I’ve changed an awefull number of those copper injector tubes not to mention seating valves😀. We used to keep a number of “service exchange” cylinder heads in stock, mostly 4 & 6 cylinder 71 heads. I remember once helping a visiting tradesman due a tune on a 16v92 gen set, I was astounded when he set all the valves and all the injectors in two rotations of the crankshaft, valves on the first rotation, injectors on the second. He knew the firing order of the v16 by memory.
It's an amazing engine really when you look how simple they are compared to the new electronic diesels with emissions. I love that like you said can do the valves and injectors in 2 rotations. I'm considering buying the tooling and doing my own guides and tubes. I still have 2 more 53 series that I want to rebuild and that would more than pay for the tools if I did them myself. Not long now before this is a runner.:)
I’m new to the industry at 6 months in and I build heads all day as well. 53 and 92. Definitely don’t love the copper tubes but I’ve gotten pretty good at it and grinding valve seats doesn’t bother me as much as setting the cam rollers on the 53’s. They aren’t bad on the 92’s. And I’m pretty good and fast at setting the bridges on the 92’s.
Very helpful.. I have an Italian yacht with 2 v8/53.. They have done just about 22 hrs after total rebuilt.. But sadly yacht stood for over 5 years and Mechanik stared her with old diesel.. Seems a lot of dirt and maybe water gone through the injectors.. As nobody is familiar here with DD.. I have to do it by my own.. So now I m not afraid anymore... Thanks Buddy!
I picked up a Clark loader with a Detroit Diesel 3-53. I think I have something in one cylinder.It will turn one rotation and then lock. I can bump the starter and it will go one more revelation and lock again. When it warms up a little I'm going to tear into it. This was a great video.
And make sure the injectors have correct 'injector protrusion'.........so that the fuel spray hits the bowl of the piston at the timed moment of injection. If the protrusion is off, it affects performance. To do this the injector cup/sleeve sometimes needs to be machined with the correct tool. Unfortunately most cylinder head shops dont know or dont care when reconditioning the head to set that up correctly.
Very true, there's only one shop I take it to that does this correctly. First start video, one injector was replaced after the video.:) Thanks for watching.:)ua-cam.com/video/gLPPD8Q_vLI/v-deo.html
Thanks, they certainly are bulletproof, thanks for watching.:) Haven't seen any Detroit tugs in years.:) Used to be used over the place. Thanks for watching.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 If I remember correctly they were Steward Stevenson but we always called them Gators. Either way I have watched a few of your videos now and I can say, you sir are a true craftsman. From an old wrench myself much respect
Turning my 3-53 with a bar it turns very hard when going through the number two cylinder compression stroke When using the starter this is where it stops turning I would really appreciate your option on this problem. I think I'm going to remove the number two injector and spin the engine to see if there is water in there. I don't know how long this machine set. This head is not painted so it has been replaced at some point. The video you made on this head is one of the best I've seen.
Thanks, Yes that's a good idea to pull the injector and bar it over. Maybe add a little oil as well and bar it over several times. Then you could run the starter.:) You could pull the airbox cover off as well and have a look at the piston.:)
I like the way they changed the valve bridges and simplified it with no adjustment. Wonder if those rockers would fit a 71 4 valve head? I've seen several of the bridge guides broken due to poor adjustment letting them push one sided.
@@rodneymiddleton9624 Yes I have a fresh 6V71 in my shop. Plan to put it in a 2000 Peterbilt.:) About a year from starting that swap.:) Here's the 6V71.:)ua-cam.com/video/adj2afcsRRI/v-deo.html
Thanks for a great and very informative video! I’m currently rebuilding a 3-53 to be a generator engine for an irrigation pump. I’m in the middle of doing injectors, and the question I have, do you just install the injectors into the injector sleeves or cups? Or is there a copper washer that goes on them before you install them. Thank you again for you videos very helpful!
Interesting! Good to know, just wanted to make sure because when I set the injectors in they had a little bit of wiggle to them and thats what made me a little concerned. Didn’t want to run into any problems when we do the first initial start up on it. Thank you!
thanks for this video I was waiting for it and just noticed you posted it months ago LOL. now to find the snap-on tool for the fuel crossovers. by the way what torque did you use for the fuel line crossovers?
Thanks again for your videos, very informative. My 353t is sluggish to accelerate. Press the accelerator pedal and have to wait for the engine spool. Any suggestion?
Good day...with assistance from your videos I did my first 353t head instalation..thank you..Do you have any video show the use of a vernier caliper to set injector timing. Heard you mention it can be used once.
That's great, I don't think I made a video using the calipers. I prefer using the timing tool, but calipers can be used. I'll have a look for you tomorrow using calipers at 1.484" timing and confirm they are the same.
I tested out the caliper today and 1.484" on the caliper is the same as the 1.484" tool. The only difference is you can't use the tool hole with the calipers as this changes the value. Will just need to use the injector shoulder next to the tool hole and it works great.
This engine doesn't have a fuel modulator. I'll set idle and the full load rpm once the engine is in the compressor. I did start it and run it for 10 minutes to check for leaks.:) Idle rpm will be 1300-1400 and full load speed about 2100-2300. Thanks for watching.:)
recently i removed the blower and sftercooler from my engine,was loaded with oil and mixed carbon,i did remove all of it and looked good,but now im seeing rust build up ,i guess from being so clean and humidity getting to it,what do you do from keeeping it from rusting?
I just run the engine regularly and that keeps the rust away. If you can't run it on a regular bases, you could keep it in a dry garage.:) Thanks for watching.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 right now the engine is on a boat,its a 692,what i did was put a film of oil around the cast iron of the airbox,i had it real clean after taking out all the dried oil so was kinda disapointing to add a film of oil,but thats all i can think of to stop it from rusting as im still waiting for the blower and parts to come in,thanks
Good evening....have some black smoke from my 353t engine. Have the injectors check ok. Injector set at 1.484. Could I use another setting to reduce the amount fuel in the cylinder.
Will injector cleaner fix an injector that is dumping too much fuel. At cold Start I get raw diesel Smoke but clears up when I get the boat underway, doesn’t do it again until the next morning, when cold start
@@detroitgarage9430 ok. What makes these injectors leak in cylinder when not supposed to? I’m trying to understand how these injectors work and what malfunctions to make that happen. Also, how do you find the bad injector?
@@tysonmathews8776 If the tip is worn, corroded or dirty it no longer provides a seal and starts to leak. The easiest way to find the bad injector is to jump one injector at a time and see if it still smokes. Second is to remove the exhaust manifold and third is to replace one injector at a time with a good one. Lastly you could pull all injectors and have them checked at an injection shop.
I just finished overhauling and installing a 453N in my companies Michigan loader. I fired it up with the rocker cover off and I see that there is almost no oil dripping from the rockers. I have 25 psi of oil pressure. Are the rocker shafts directional? I have them all lined up with the soft plug end of the shaft facing the flywheel side of the engine.
No rocker shafts can go any direction. How long did you run it, take a few minutes to get oil up to the rockers. Did you replace the camshaft bearings? They feed the head and can be installed in a way that can plug the oil passage to the head.
@@detroitgarage9430 I only ran it for about 30 seconds. I did not change the cam bearings. When I shut it down after 30 seconds of running I did hear a giant air bubble come out of the #4 rocker shaft. Should I running of for another minute or two before I jump to conclusions? I really appreciate you taking the time to share your insight, I am in very unfamiliar territory with this particular engine.
You said you use timing of 1.484. Is thar for turbo. I am trying to figure out what to use on my 6v53 non-turbo. I keep seeing 1.460. What is your recommendation?
No, they should move freely. If they are locking, then they need to be freed. They stick after years of being parked and not used.:) Thanks for watching.
The injector seals up against the copper tube, it's held down by a small clamp. The rack sits at full fuel unless the governor is in the stop position. In the run position it's in full fuel until the engine is started, then it will run at the set rpm.
@@detroitgarage9430 the tubes are brass on my 1985 8v71n's someone had put copper washers on the tips of the injectors , only when I took the boat out for a run did I see fuel dripping out of the exhaust manifold and a lot from the drain tubes when stopped , I removed the washers and am putting the rack back on hence all of the questions 😀
hi how are you,i did a running the rack and adjusted the governor gap,they were all off, But now puzzled as the injectors after the job,they are close to full fuel at idle,and when i push the throttle fully the injectors stay at full fuel from quarter throttle to full throttle,when i ran the rack i had the max speed,full throttle ,i backed off the buffer screw,(but i did not back off the idle screw as the manual dont mention it) so now im not sure if something is wrong, is this normal ?,does the engine start like this then it idles out on its own? the stop lever does bring the rack to no fuel but then goes right back up to almost full fuel and then when i press the throttle just a quarter full the rack is at fuel fuel,is there something wrong or is this normal?
Just confirm which governor you have, DW-LS? In order to run the rack correctly it's recommended that the both the buffer and idle be backed out. With the engine running at idle the the rack will be at idle. When throttle is added the rack will command full fuel until the desired speed is reached the then back off. If it's set correctly then you can set full no load speed, the rack goes to full fuel, then when the governed speed is reached, then it backs the rack of to maintain that speed. As long as it's giving you the throttle speeds you want, then yes that's pretty normal.
thanks,the governor is a sw-vs, when i set the rack ,i watched your video and then on the boat i followed the manual steps and strangly they dont mention backing off the idle screw just the buffer,i havnt started the engine yet so i thought something was wrong as the rack is close to full fuel without touching anythin,when i engage the stop lever to no fuel it does travel to no fuel and then sets back up to close to full fuel(but i havnt started the engine yet)and was afraid that the engine would start at a higher rpm,but i guess thats normal and when the engine starts as you mentioned the governor speed is reached and then backs off the rack to idle,i was a bit confused with this,because of the throttle i would put it at quarter travel it would bring the rack to full fuel but the injectors were not to tight and then at full throttle they would act the same,i actually removed the throttle delay as i thought that was the problem at first,i didnt know what to think,but that is amazing how it works,i might do it all over again but this time with the idle screw backed off.thanks
@@TheMatrixgod Ah ok, for the SW-VS you don't need to back out the idle screw, just back out the buffer screw and loosen the throttle delay. After you're finished then adjust the throttle delay and start up the engine. You can always use a pair of Vise Grips on the control tube for the first start and remove them once you check throttle response.
@@detroitgarage9430 thank you,that worked out really good,engine sounds better than it ever did,but unfortunatly i have another problem,there was a exhaust leak and with some oil dripping,the turbo before i did any work did have oil on the exhaust side,after rebuilding the blower and cleaning everything i did get new seals on the turbo,i guess from playing with the exaust pipes maybe i created a more noticeable leak in the exaust,but i did get this time another turbo to make sure the oil isnt coming from the turbo,but not very positive on it,so kind of a bummer that it might be a piston problem,maybe the rings are stuck,i just dont have time at the moment to tackle a full piston overhaul,but outside that your videos was so clear to me,i had no problem tackling the rack,injectors and valves,far the best videos on these engines so far and very encouraging,thanks
@@TheMatrixgod I'm glad it helped.:) As far as oil dripping from the exhaust, this is very common on Detroit that haven't been run hard and a lot of idling. I would suggest you take the boat out and run it full throttle with a good load for 30 minutes to an hour. More if you can and that will get rid of the wet stacking.
Thanks, I've pretty much collected all the tools I need now. I am however looking for a valve seat removal tool and the seat grinder tool. My email is emerald310@gmail.com
You do a good job teaching people to do this stuff. We need more people like you to show people how to do this because it’s really cool what you do and what you do with engines.
Thank you, most of the mechanics who used to work on these are now retired.:) I figured some people might find these videos useful.:)
You’ve produced some of the most informative videos on the old 4-53 available on the net 👍
Thanks, that's been the main goal of the channel.:) As these engines are getting rarer and the same for the people that work on them, information is getting harder to find.:) With this channel I try and make it easy for the average guy to tune and rebuild them.:)
The camera top view of the engine during the tune-up was great and clear. Thanks for all details!
Thanks, I'm glad that worked out as it's hard to tell when your videoing at the engine.:)
IIRC the injectors were the same physical dimensions for 53’s, 71s, and 92s, only the amount of fuel injected differed, and that was decided by the plunger And bushing used. (6 months in the fuel pump room). As an apprentice I did my time on the cylinder head bench too, overhauling cylinder heads. I’ve changed an awefull number of those copper injector tubes not to mention seating valves😀. We used to keep a number of “service exchange” cylinder heads in stock, mostly 4 & 6 cylinder 71 heads. I remember once helping a visiting tradesman due a tune on a 16v92 gen set, I was astounded when he set all the valves and all the injectors in two rotations of the crankshaft, valves on the first rotation, injectors on the second. He knew the firing order of the v16 by memory.
It's an amazing engine really when you look how simple they are compared to the new electronic diesels with emissions. I love that like you said can do the valves and injectors in 2 rotations. I'm considering buying the tooling and doing my own guides and tubes. I still have 2 more 53 series that I want to rebuild and that would more than pay for the tools if I did them myself. Not long now before this is a runner.:)
Are there any way I can contact you I am in Madagascar with a new crate engine 353t I turns but does not start
I’m new to the industry at 6 months in and I build heads all day as well. 53 and 92. Definitely don’t love the copper tubes but I’ve gotten pretty good at it and grinding valve seats doesn’t bother me as much as setting the cam rollers on the 53’s. They aren’t bad on the 92’s. And I’m pretty good and fast at setting the bridges on the 92’s.
Very helpful.. I have an Italian yacht with 2 v8/53.. They have done just about 22 hrs after total rebuilt.. But sadly yacht stood for over 5 years and Mechanik stared her with old diesel.. Seems a lot of dirt and maybe water gone through the injectors.. As nobody is familiar here with DD.. I have to do it by my own.. So now I m not afraid anymore... Thanks Buddy!
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.:)
I picked up a Clark loader with a Detroit Diesel 3-53. I think I have something in one cylinder.It will turn one rotation and then lock. I can bump the starter and it will go one more revelation and lock again. When it warms up a little I'm going to tear into it. This was a great video.
Thanks, they are great little engine. I hope you find the issue and it's an easy fix.:) Thanks for watching.:)
Very neat gentiman, most kind of you for sharing it with us, blessings to you and love ones, from Puerto Rico Jesús Torres
Thank you, and thanks for watching.:)
Good video instructor. Well done. Very helpful to me. Thank you
And make sure the injectors have correct 'injector protrusion'.........so that the fuel spray hits the bowl of the piston at the timed moment of injection. If the protrusion is off, it affects performance. To do this the injector cup/sleeve sometimes needs to be machined with the correct tool. Unfortunately most cylinder head shops dont know or dont care when reconditioning the head to set that up correctly.
Very true, there's only one shop I take it to that does this correctly. First start video, one injector was replaced after the video.:) Thanks for watching.:)ua-cam.com/video/gLPPD8Q_vLI/v-deo.html
This is what I do daily.
Kent-Moore J-22525-B Detroit Diesel Injector Tube Reconditioning Set
Awesome video and thanks. We had a few of 3-53s in our small push back tractors. Freaking bulletproof engines!
Thanks, they certainly are bulletproof, thanks for watching.:) Haven't seen any Detroit tugs in years.:) Used to be used over the place. Thanks for watching.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 If I remember correctly they were Steward Stevenson but we always called them Gators. Either way I have watched a few of your videos now and I can say, you sir are a true craftsman. From an old wrench myself much respect
@@Steve-Z68 Thanks, I sure enjoy my Detroits.:)
Best video yet IMO. 👍 Keep up the awesome work. Really enjoying following your builds.
Thank you and thanks for watching.:)
Awesome! You make it so much less intimidating. I really appreciate this!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 absolutely!
Turning my 3-53 with a bar it turns very hard when going through the number two cylinder compression stroke When using the starter this is where it stops turning I would really appreciate your option on this problem. I think I'm going to remove the number two injector and spin the engine to see if there is water in there. I don't know how long this machine set. This head is not painted so it has been replaced at some point. The video you made on this head is one of the best I've seen.
Thanks, Yes that's a good idea to pull the injector and bar it over. Maybe add a little oil as well and bar it over several times. Then you could run the starter.:) You could pull the airbox cover off as well and have a look at the piston.:)
I was taught to put a drop of engine oil on the top of the injector and to adjust the height to where the gauge just dragged thru the oil.
Thanks, I'll try that out and see how I like it.:) It might give a better feed back and therefor more accurate.:)
Nice job on the tune I also have a 353 in a Dynahoe trying to find out how to set up the governor. single weight verses a double weight.
Once the compressor is finished, I'll be doing a video on this VS governor.:) Thanks for watching.:)
Super excellent video!
Thanks and thanks for watching.:)
I like the way they changed the valve bridges and simplified it with no adjustment. Wonder if those rockers would fit a 71 4 valve head? I've seen several of the bridge guides broken due to poor adjustment letting them push one sided.
True, I like the design of the 53 series bridges, super simple. I've not compared them to the 6V71, but I think they are a smaller unit.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 Do you have any 71 stuff around to compare it to?
@@rodneymiddleton9624 Yes I have a fresh 6V71 in my shop. Plan to put it in a 2000 Peterbilt.:) About a year from starting that swap.:) Here's the 6V71.:)ua-cam.com/video/adj2afcsRRI/v-deo.html
Thanks for a great and very informative video! I’m currently rebuilding a 3-53 to be a generator engine for an irrigation pump. I’m in the middle of doing injectors, and the question I have, do you just install the injectors into the injector sleeves or cups? Or is there a copper washer that goes on them before you install them. Thank you again for you videos very helpful!
Unlike other diesels, there are no copper washers for Detroit injectors. The copper injector tube serves the same purpose. Thanks for watching.:)
Interesting! Good to know, just wanted to make sure because when I set the injectors in they had a little bit of wiggle to them and thats what made me a little concerned. Didn’t want to run into any problems when we do the first initial start up on it. Thank you!
@@kalegiles8924 When they are clamped down they should be solid.:)
Nice video very informative 👍
Thanks.:)
thanks for this video I was waiting for it and just noticed you posted it months ago LOL. now to find the snap-on tool for the fuel crossovers. by the way what torque did you use for the fuel line crossovers?
The fuel lines are 160 lb-in.:) Thanks for watching.:)
Thanks again for your videos, very informative. My 353t is sluggish to accelerate. Press the accelerator pedal and have to wait for the engine spool. Any suggestion?
Yes a good tune up should fix that. Also check the air cleaner isn’t plugged, that will slow thing right down. Thanks for watching.:)
Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸
Good day...with assistance from your videos I did my first 353t head instalation..thank you..Do you have any video show the use of a vernier caliper to set injector timing. Heard you mention it can be used once.
That's great, I don't think I made a video using the calipers. I prefer using the timing tool, but calipers can be used. I'll have a look for you tomorrow using calipers at 1.484" timing and confirm they are the same.
Thank you, I would appreciate it
I tested out the caliper today and 1.484" on the caliper is the same as the 1.484" tool. The only difference is you can't use the tool hole with the calipers as this changes the value. Will just need to use the injector shoulder next to the tool hole and it works great.
@@detroitgarage9430 sincerely appreciate your assistance with the confirmation. Think I will recheck my injectors, they weren't exactly 1.484
Have you done throttle modulor,and a mechanical governor?if so are these also part of a tuneup?
This engine doesn't have a fuel modulator. I'll set idle and the full load rpm once the engine is in the compressor. I did start it and run it for 10 minutes to check for leaks.:) Idle rpm will be 1300-1400 and full load speed about 2100-2300. Thanks for watching.:)
davidetroit diesel!!!!!!!!
great job
Thanks and thanks for watching.:)
recently i removed the blower and sftercooler from my engine,was loaded with oil and mixed carbon,i did remove all of it and looked good,but now im seeing rust build up ,i guess from being so clean and humidity getting to it,what do you do from keeeping it from rusting?
I just run the engine regularly and that keeps the rust away. If you can't run it on a regular bases, you could keep it in a dry garage.:) Thanks for watching.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 right now the engine is on a boat,its a 692,what i did was put a film of oil around the cast iron of the airbox,i had it real clean after taking out all the dried oil so was kinda disapointing to add a film of oil,but thats all i can think of to stop it from rusting as im still waiting for the blower and parts to come in,thanks
@@TheMatrixgod Ah ok, Once you get the blower on and run it, then it won't be a problem.:)
Good evening....have some black smoke from my 353t engine. Have the injectors check ok. Injector set at 1.484. Could I use another setting to reduce the amount fuel in the cylinder.
You could try 1.47", that's what I use on my 4-53T and no smoke. Thanks for watching.:)
Will injector cleaner fix an injector that is dumping too much fuel. At cold
Start I get raw diesel
Smoke but clears up when I get the boat underway, doesn’t do it again until the next morning, when cold start
Can't hurt trying, but I find if the injector is bad they usually have to be replaced.
@@detroitgarage9430 ok. What makes these injectors leak in cylinder when not supposed to? I’m trying to understand how these injectors work and what malfunctions to make that happen. Also, how do you find the bad injector?
@@tysonmathews8776 If the tip is worn, corroded or dirty it no longer provides a seal and starts to leak. The easiest way to find the bad injector is to jump one injector at a time and see if it still smokes. Second is to remove the exhaust manifold and third is to replace one injector at a time with a good one. Lastly you could pull all injectors and have them checked at an injection shop.
@@detroitgarage9430 thank you for the great info! Absolutely great channel by the way.
@@tysonmathews8776 You're welcome.:)
Did you mention the injector line torque, or did I miss it.
160 lb-in.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 Thank you!
I just finished overhauling and installing a 453N in my companies Michigan loader. I fired it up with the rocker cover off and I see that there is almost no oil dripping from the rockers. I have 25 psi of oil pressure. Are the rocker shafts directional? I have them all lined up with the soft plug end of the shaft facing the flywheel side of the engine.
No rocker shafts can go any direction. How long did you run it, take a few minutes to get oil up to the rockers. Did you replace the camshaft bearings? They feed the head and can be installed in a way that can plug the oil passage to the head.
@@detroitgarage9430 I only ran it for about 30 seconds. I did not change the cam bearings. When I shut it down after 30 seconds of running I did hear a giant air bubble come out of the #4 rocker shaft. Should I running of for another minute or two before I jump to conclusions? I really appreciate you taking the time to share your insight, I am in very unfamiliar territory with this particular engine.
@@steveingersoll650 Ah ok run for at least five-10 min.:) That will give it enough time to lube up.
@@detroitgarage9430 sounds good, thank you!
You said you use timing of 1.484. Is thar for turbo. I am trying to figure out what to use on my 6v53 non-turbo. I keep seeing 1.460. What is your recommendation?
On the N engines use 1.46” and the 1.484” for the T engines. So I’d use 1.46” on your 6V53.:)
Thanks for the reply. You make great videos.
Cual es la calibracion de valvula e inyectores de ese motor porfavir
Las válvulas son de 0,026" y los inyectores están ajustados a 1,484". Gracias por ver.:)
Is it normal for the injectors to lock in place on rotation of the motor
No, they should move freely. If they are locking, then they need to be freed. They stick after years of being parked and not used.:) Thanks for watching.
Qanthos HP?
🙂
Vc tbm ñ enjoa de ver e ouvir sobre o Detroit, heim, David?
Tmj aquí...
How does the injector seal ?
Why does the rack sit at full fuel ?
The injector seals up against the copper tube, it's held down by a small clamp. The rack sits at full fuel unless the governor is in the stop position. In the run position it's in full fuel until the engine is started, then it will run at the set rpm.
@@detroitgarage9430 many thanks for the reply , and thanks for your time and effort in producing your videos they are very informative 👍
@@detroitgarage9430 the tubes are brass on my 1985 8v71n's someone had put copper washers on the tips of the injectors , only when I took the boat out for a run did I see fuel dripping out of the exhaust manifold and a lot from the drain tubes when stopped , I removed the washers and am putting the rack back on hence all of the questions 😀
Ah ok.:)
CARROS ANTIGOS MOTO JATAIZINHO PR
The only thing that would make this video better is if it wasn’t flooded with sack of sh!t Ron Wyden election ads.
Por favor en español
Veré si puedo poner subtítulos en español como opción. No hablo español, pero traduzco con Google. :)
Muy bueno pero hay que traducir en español. Gracias
Bueno, gracias.:)
hi how are you,i did a running the rack and adjusted the governor gap,they were all off,
But now puzzled as the injectors after the job,they are close to full fuel at idle,and when i push the throttle fully the injectors stay at full fuel from quarter throttle to full throttle,when i ran the rack i had the max speed,full throttle ,i backed off the buffer screw,(but i did not back off the idle screw as the manual dont mention it) so now im not sure if something is wrong, is this normal ?,does the engine start like this then it idles out on its own? the stop lever does bring the rack to no fuel but then goes right back up to almost full fuel and then when i press the throttle just a quarter full the rack is at fuel fuel,is there something wrong or is this normal?
Just confirm which governor you have, DW-LS? In order to run the rack correctly it's recommended that the both the buffer and idle be backed out. With the engine running at idle the the rack will be at idle. When throttle is added the rack will command full fuel until the desired speed is reached the then back off. If it's set correctly then you can set full no load speed, the rack goes to full fuel, then when the governed speed is reached, then it backs the rack of to maintain that speed. As long as it's giving you the throttle speeds you want, then yes that's pretty normal.
thanks,the governor is a sw-vs, when i set the rack ,i watched your video and then on the boat i followed the manual steps and strangly they dont mention backing off the idle screw just the buffer,i havnt started the engine yet so i thought something was wrong as the rack is close to full fuel without touching anythin,when i engage the stop lever to no fuel it does travel to no fuel and then sets back up to close to full fuel(but i havnt started the engine yet)and was afraid that the engine would start at a higher rpm,but i guess thats normal and when the engine starts as you mentioned the governor speed is reached and then backs off the rack to idle,i was a bit confused with this,because of the throttle i would put it at quarter travel it would bring the rack to full fuel but the injectors were not to tight and then at full throttle they would act the same,i actually removed the throttle delay as i thought that was the problem at first,i didnt know what to think,but that is amazing how it works,i might do it all over again but this time with the idle screw backed off.thanks
@@TheMatrixgod Ah ok, for the SW-VS you don't need to back out the idle screw, just back out the buffer screw and loosen the throttle delay. After you're finished then adjust the throttle delay and start up the engine. You can always use a pair of Vise Grips on the control tube for the first start and remove them once you check throttle response.
@@detroitgarage9430 thank you,that worked out really good,engine sounds better than it ever did,but unfortunatly i have another problem,there was a exhaust leak and with some oil dripping,the turbo before i did any work did have oil on the exhaust side,after rebuilding the blower and cleaning everything i did get new seals on the turbo,i guess from playing with the exaust pipes maybe i created a more noticeable leak in the exaust,but i did get this time another turbo to make sure the oil isnt coming from the turbo,but not very positive on it,so kind of a bummer that it might be a piston problem,maybe the rings are stuck,i just dont have time at the moment to tackle a full piston overhaul,but outside that your videos was so clear to me,i had no problem tackling the rack,injectors and valves,far the best videos on these engines so far and very encouraging,thanks
@@TheMatrixgod I'm glad it helped.:) As far as oil dripping from the exhaust, this is very common on Detroit that haven't been run hard and a lot of idling. I would suggest you take the boat out and run it full throttle with a good load for 30 minutes to an hour. More if you can and that will get rid of the wet stacking.
Anyone that wants to buy tools I’ve got them & I’ll make a deal w/ ya & a lot of Detroit special tools & stuff, let me know !
Thanks, I've pretty much collected all the tools I need now. I am however looking for a valve seat removal tool and the seat grinder tool. My email is emerald310@gmail.com