I have two Contax G1 bodies, one with a 45mm f2 permanantly attached, the other mounting the 28mm f2.8. Both are brilliant, the Zeiss 45 f2 breathtakingly sharp. Some people are critical of the G1's autofocus capabilities, but I've never had a problem. I've owned both bodies 17years and neither has a leaking LCD issue. I've never used either G1 with on-camera flash, although these days I do occasionally use the G1/45mm f2 combination in the studio, triggering mains flash units with a radio trigger. People are always blown away by the sharpness of the images this camera produces when I use it in the studio.
If you’re interested in the contax g series and want to make this your everyday camera-here are some advice (I’ve been shooting the contax G1/2 since I was 15 in 2014). -the viewfinders suck and it’s dim, external viewfinders really help. Zeiss 28 is my fav. -the g1 is not far off from the g2 -don’t get the 90mm, it misses a ton. Stop down aperture if you do get one. -the 35mm is weirdly the softest lens in the lineup. I would avoid. -you can get them serviced in Japan and some places in Hong Kong. -LCD bleed will happen eventually. This cannot be fixed by anyone. Do not leave cameras in car, this increases risk. -you will easily have a full set over a small period of time; imo best in the g series: *16, 21, 28, 45, and tla200* -invest in the batteries. They aren’t super common in most places. Happy shooting. Nice video
Thanks for the video. Over the decades, I have used the following rangefinders for film photography: Argus C3 35mm rangefinder with 35mm, 50mm, and 100mm lenses Minolta Hi-Matic 9 35mm rangefinder with fixed 45mm f/1.8 lens Canon Canonet QL17 G-III 35mm rangefinder with fixed 40mm f/1.7 lens Leica M6 35mm rangefinder with 35mm f/1.4, 21mm f/1.4, and 90mm f/2 lenses Fuji 6x7cm and 6x9cm medium format rangefinders Two Contax G1 cameras (one green label and one white label) with 21/28/45/90mm lenses. I cannot say that the G1 was my best rangefinder for film photography, but it was a solid second to my Leica M6. I preferred the Leica M6 for theatrical photography, golf photography, and shooting in audio recording studios because the M6 was not as noisy as the Contax G1 and the M6 lenses were faster than the G1. However, I really preferred the built-in motor drive film advance of the G1, the hinged back of the G1 verses the removable back of the M6, and the reasonable price of the G1. I was able to buy one G1 body with 28, 45, and 90mm lenses for less than the price of one Leica M6 body.
I've had the G1 and the three lenses for many years. Technically, it is a rangefinder, with two windows for the baseline and trig to get focus. It's just that the linkage isn't mechanism but electronic via a phase detect cell as with most AF systems. It's - meh. Now, when I used to do street photography with this camera it was focus by feel. Set the camera to manual focus. Rotate the focus wheel to infinity lock to calibrate. While looking at potential scenes I'd be estimating distance by eye and have the thumb wheel dial in focus by muscle memory. Catching the moment for the exposure is then just putting camera to eye to frame then button press to release shutter. This worked well enough if aperture is open no wider than about f4. These days, I have the 45mm f2 Planar adapted to my Panasonic MFT camera. It is a very good short telephoto. The sharpness, resolution and saturation is truly excellent, definitely worthy of the Zeiss name plate.
Also can use the 35-70mm with the green label model. You should mention how to tell if you have a “green label” or not. Show where the label is, for instance. By the way, I absolutely love my G1 green label. Perfect travel 35mm film camera as well as a general carry-around camera for every day.
This is super late but you can't focus on the lens since historic Contax rangefinders (back when they were German) also didn't focus on the lens. They used a razor wheel to focus mounted vertically on the camera. That's why the G2 has the focus wheel on the front. Since Nikon got started as a Contax clone the S3 and SP also use the same system to focus.
Did you ever end up getting the green version? - I also have the silver version with the 28mm, 45mm, and 90mm. Those 3 lenses more or less give me all the focal coverage I think I would ever need for this camera system. 21mm might be nice - but I can also walk a few steps back with the 28mm to get the same framing. Thanks again for a very informative video.
It was an amazing camera for me when it actually focused properly. The Hexar Af, although fixed lens was a much better camera to me. I still regret selling the Hexar. The G1 not so much.
I've just purchased the 45mm f2 but not received it yet and I'm going to use it with an adapter for my x pro 3, my question is, how do I manual focus with the camera as you mention you can't focus with the dial on the lens, which I was unaware of.
Lovely photos and video. I don’t shoot film anymore (I rocked a Nikon FM series camera), but I use a Fuji X-Pro series camera now, which I feel are the spiritual successor to the Contax G series. 😊
I agree with your comment about the Fuji X-Pro series camera being the spiritual successor to the Contax G series. I still shoot with Contax G1 film cameras and also shoot with Fuji X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 digital cameras.
I would say Sony, as you can use your G lenses autofocus. Nail dolphins and stuff. Contax G had a big pro user group. It's tech in the 90's, you could say to a lot of people, they could fuck off with their camera. Fuji does not. It is brand for fans and enthousiasts. Fuji has crap lenses. They do have some cool body's. Fuji X is nice, Contax was important. I'm rather angry with the GFX, the micro lenses of sensor are different, than in the 645Z, Hasselblads variant, older Hasselblads and Phase One that most likely used the sensor for a time. and It can't shoot colours, the 50mp. Every colour has shifts, artefacts ... one of the things that could be important for using medium format It must get the colours, possibly at the highest possible quality. Don't fall apart. The 100mp is alright.
@@Jupiter4Alphs what are you talking about, in the age of computer aided design (i.e. the computer can number crunch optics) none of the big camera brands makes really bad lenses anymore (beyond subjective aspects)
My favorite camera for the past decade. I currently own 3 of them and 1 broken one that came with one of my lenses that I plan to salvage for parts in the future in case one breaks. Great video! Also! STFU DONT DRIVE UP THE PRICES ON MY GO TO CAMERA HOW COULD YOU?! (Jk…kinda)
Once a month or so I do some real soul searching, and think about putting the Leica for sale for a G2. That autofocus just makes it so darn appealing for any everyday future. And my God, they just look great.
Also, I wouldn't bother with the 21mm since you can't use the viewfinder for it, it requires a seperate shoe mounted one. And that means you need to check the camera one for focus and exposure and then the shoe mount for framing, and since it's shoe mount you won't get any parallax correction either. The 35mm is no good either, the 45mm planar is sharper.
Trying to decide between going for the G2 (for the 4000/6000 shutter speeds) or the Contax S2b but mainly just want to prioritise sharpness and image quality - if anybody’s got any experience with the CY mount 50mm 1.4?
depends on your familiarity and comfort with fully manual cameras, as well as your shooting style...I have an s2 with spot meter and 139q with center weighted meter...I have zeiss primes from 28mm to 300mm...including the 50mm 1.4 you asked about...it's a great lens...the 50mm 1.7 is great as well ...as far as image quality goes I have found that the correct metering,focusing, and aperture selection relative to the types of photos you take drive that...if you shoot landscapes/city scapes/ industrial type photos and shoot using the zone system..the cheaper s2 with spot meter would work and you wouldnt need the fast lens or use the fast shutter speed.. if you shoot street photos...the 50mm 1.4 with an aperture priority body is great...if you like portraits with wide open apertures the s2b with an 85mm1.4 would be great....if you are new to shooting film the g2 would be a good transitional camera to learn the idiosyncrasies of film before transitioning towards a fully manual camera
@@vincentdumlao9166 thanks for the reply vincent! I’m definitely more into the latter (portraits with some level of background blur f2.8-4), appreciate the reply 💪
I love how much people diss the camera like so what the auto focus is bad Ok and just take the picture that’s the joy of photography is you taking the photo not the camera taking the photo
The biggest problem with these is that they are ALL electronic. Getting them repaired is ALMOST impossible and they one has a $400 brick. They were pretty and beautiful and the lenses are superb. One just never knows when they go south.
@@Overexposed1 Will be such an explosion ... mine have been solid performers for 20 years. One is always the backup and the time bomb has yet to go off. The backup is in very good condition. Much easier to get one repaired, then repair It yourself. It is not a Yamaha CS80
I’ve heard everyone saying the same thing about the g1’s- that they aren’t repairable but it’s not necessarily true. My g1 the focus stopped working and I’ve just had it repaired this week by a camera repair store here in Australia. I was surprised but stoked to have it refurbed like new again!
@@jasonplucas Glad that you have a repair facility in Australia. They were nice and innovative cameras (pretty also). So, I'm happy that you were able to keep yours working.
If you used film camera's ... or rangefinder. It was like a rangefinder from the future. That was not a rangefinder. It shot a laserbeam spit out rolles, did paralax. Now If you are scared of electronics, It can get moody and will bzzzz you with lenses like a camera R2D2. If It would die ... I have another one .... If It isn't that important for you, you don't have a backup. Now all film body's have Loco prices, It's still cheap. What's expensive is eroding Leica S sensors ... I have 2 sinds 2005. Not a problem. They were intensely used. Shotting 5 rolls every day. My main Yashica T4, get's stuck sometime. It was heavely abused. Spare T4 and a Mju II never got any use. The Trip 35mm The original Pen F, and some lenses. I only use It to look cooler than them. Some with the Ultramatic from V SLR with Leaf shutter. I shot 2 OM's for work Nice system. 24mm - 135mm Pentax ES Takumars 35mm - 135mm Had one M, but It got slow use. Or get's, I still use It. Bessa and a Leica Now I use 3 Sony's. They shoot the Contax lenses. 45mm and 90mm Also M VM 35mm 1.7, 50mm 1.5, Summicron 50mm, Summar 50mm, Summarit 50mm 1.5, Tele Elmarit 90mm 2.8, 90mm M Elmarit Leica R 35mm Elmarit Rom, 50mm Summicron V1, 50mm Summicron V2, 80mm Noctilux Rom, 100mm Apo Macro Elmarit M42 Zeiss Jena 75mm 1.5, 100mm Macro Planar f 2.0 MF Pentax 3 645's Not going to say all the lenses. A Fuji GFX It's mostly like the Matrix. Call assistent. I need battery's, lot's of them. Also lenses, give me 50's, all of them and camera's That's more 50mm than the other glass combined. I know those models will be shot, with an unusual amount of different lenses, from the same distance. They will think why is he taking those close ups but calls in the assistent every 5 minutes with a body ready with another 50 But none has ever done this before! That's exactly why It will work. Needing only 3 hours, but working 12 ... I don't have a Canon anymore. They all died, broke I only worry about the electronics with Canon. Also they brake 1D MKII, was on tripod doing a 7 day stop motion, someone bumped It 24-70L was in 3 peaces and peaces were shattered. 1D MKII, split in 2 from doing stop motion ... falling 1m. Any camera can break. Use It then use a working one ... A lot of G issue's are fixable.
overpriced in general.. the electronic is random & the camera can stop working for no reason. As i love to say for those little things "it falls it dies..." would certainly be one of my choice for streetphoto if it was still affordable or repairable for a fair price.. Can't wait to see the analog trend go down to maybe get this little beauty...
I won a G1 green label on ebay for $150. Hardly breaking the bank. The lenses on the other hand. While affordable, still on the higher side. It is Zeiss glass after all. If youre worried about your 35mm camera dying. But more like I did. In 3 months I bought 2 Contax’s and 1 yashica and 1 olympus. Spreading the usage around helps.
Camera bait is always good bait but the answer to the title is a strong no, for "most people". A camera with either good manual or auto focus alone will be a more useful tool than a camera that does both poorly. The G1 bodies are rarely sold without a lens and cheap for a reason. Because people getting into the G system never want to go back to the G1 if they can help it. Which is a shame because the body and lenses are well made with great features and excellent optics. The G1 autofocus just doesn't work well enough to justify the virtual absence of manual focus. It's ok for basically how you used it: very slow paced casual photography in a bright environment. The G2 redeems the G system somewhat and I love using mine despite the disadvantages of a rangefinder that relies on autofocus. I only wish Kyocera's Contax branch had lasted long enough to make a G3 with (electronically) rangefinder coupled manual focus, which, besides being hilariously convoluted and overengineered, would easily push it into one of the greatest advanced 35mm film cameras ever made alongside Nikon F4/F5/F6, Nikon 28/35 Ti and Minolta TC-1. You should consider another Contax, the AX SLR for another video. It features my favorite focusing innovation of any camera: instead of focusing with the lens the camera moves the film plane instead! Allowing you to autofocus with manual focus lenses on the C/Y Mount, which has many high quality native Zeiss lenses! A digital version of this would be killer. Imagine using any manual lens on your modern BSI sensor mirrorless camera with autofocus! Hope you check out the G2, my favorite 35mm camera.
Can you imagine if Zeiss / Sony kept this line going with modern AF and batteries...This thing would sell so well.
I have the Batis 18, 25, 40 and 16-35, all focus as fast as you could need. I’m a sports and news photographer trust me they’re great.
I have two Contax G1 bodies, one with a 45mm f2 permanantly attached, the other mounting the 28mm f2.8. Both are brilliant, the Zeiss 45 f2 breathtakingly sharp. Some people are critical of the G1's autofocus capabilities, but I've never had a problem. I've owned both bodies 17years and neither has a leaking LCD issue. I've never used either G1 with on-camera flash, although these days I do occasionally use the G1/45mm f2 combination in the studio, triggering mains flash units with a radio trigger. People are always blown away by the sharpness of the images this camera produces when I use it in the studio.
If my mind doesn’t change, this year is going to see me try to get a G2! Thanks for watching!
I’m working my way through your channel tonight. Great videos!!!!
If you’re interested in the contax g series and want to make this your everyday camera-here are some advice (I’ve been shooting the contax G1/2 since I was 15 in 2014).
-the viewfinders suck and it’s dim, external viewfinders really help. Zeiss 28 is my fav.
-the g1 is not far off from the g2
-don’t get the 90mm, it misses a ton. Stop down aperture if you do get one.
-the 35mm is weirdly the softest lens in the lineup. I would avoid.
-you can get them serviced in Japan and some places in Hong Kong.
-LCD bleed will happen eventually. This cannot be fixed by anyone. Do not leave cameras in car, this increases risk.
-you will easily have a full set over a small period of time; imo best in the g series:
*16, 21, 28, 45, and tla200*
-invest in the batteries. They aren’t super common in most places.
Happy shooting. Nice video
is there any other difference between silver and green label other than the compatibility of lens? Is there no image quality difference?
@@dkstudios3998 nope, still produces stunning images!
@@dkstudios3998 No difference in image quality.
Thanks for the video.
Over the decades, I have used the following rangefinders for film photography:
Argus C3 35mm rangefinder with 35mm, 50mm, and 100mm lenses
Minolta Hi-Matic 9 35mm rangefinder with fixed 45mm f/1.8 lens
Canon Canonet QL17 G-III 35mm rangefinder with fixed 40mm f/1.7 lens
Leica M6 35mm rangefinder with 35mm f/1.4, 21mm f/1.4, and 90mm f/2 lenses
Fuji 6x7cm and 6x9cm medium format rangefinders
Two Contax G1 cameras (one green label and one white label) with 21/28/45/90mm lenses.
I cannot say that the G1 was my best rangefinder for film photography, but it was a solid second to my Leica M6. I preferred the Leica M6 for theatrical photography, golf photography, and shooting in audio recording studios because the M6 was not as noisy as the Contax G1 and the M6 lenses were faster than the G1.
However, I really preferred the built-in motor drive film advance of the G1, the hinged back of the G1 verses the removable back of the M6, and the reasonable price of the G1. I was able to buy one G1 body with 28, 45, and 90mm lenses for less than the price of one Leica M6 body.
I've had the G1 and the three lenses for many years. Technically, it is a rangefinder, with two windows for the baseline and trig to get focus. It's just that the linkage isn't mechanism but electronic via a phase detect cell as with most AF systems. It's - meh.
Now, when I used to do street photography with this camera it was focus by feel. Set the camera to manual focus. Rotate the focus wheel to infinity lock to calibrate. While looking at potential scenes I'd be estimating distance by eye and have the thumb wheel dial in focus by muscle memory. Catching the moment for the exposure is then just putting camera to eye to frame then button press to release shutter. This worked well enough if aperture is open no wider than about f4.
These days, I have the 45mm f2 Planar adapted to my Panasonic MFT camera. It is a very good short telephoto. The sharpness, resolution and saturation is truly excellent, definitely worthy of the Zeiss name plate.
Also can use the 35-70mm with the green label model. You should mention how to tell if you have a “green label” or not. Show where the label is, for instance. By the way, I absolutely love my G1 green label. Perfect travel 35mm film camera as well as a general carry-around camera for every day.
The “thanks for the clicks” joke made me laugh, like, and subscribe! Great video, brother!
I can’t wait to get my camera
This is super late but you can't focus on the lens since historic Contax rangefinders (back when they were German) also didn't focus on the lens. They used a razor wheel to focus mounted vertically on the camera. That's why the G2 has the focus wheel on the front. Since Nikon got started as a Contax clone the S3 and SP also use the same system to focus.
I love this camera and this 3 lenses! The 90mm is the best for portraits
Stunning quality glass! Love these little Golden primes.
Did you ever end up getting the green version? - I also have the silver version with the 28mm, 45mm, and 90mm. Those 3 lenses more or less give me all the focal coverage I think I would ever need for this camera system. 21mm might be nice - but I can also walk a few steps back with the 28mm to get the same framing. Thanks again for a very informative video.
It was an amazing camera for me when it actually focused properly. The Hexar Af, although fixed lens was a much better camera to me. I still regret selling the Hexar. The G1 not so much.
The last shot of the lifeguard stand is great.
Thanks Nathan!
Glad I never got rid of my Contax G1 (green label) nor my Leica M 6.
Awesome camera. One of the best values on the market IMO
So if you put the camera in manual mode to infinity and the aperture at f11, you’d never miss focus?
I think I am going to go for one of their mechanical SLR's. Cheaper and wont break as easily.
I've just purchased the 45mm f2 but not received it yet and I'm going to use it with an adapter for my x pro 3, my question is, how do I manual focus with the camera as you mention you can't focus with the dial on the lens, which I was unaware of.
Lovely photos and video. I don’t shoot film anymore (I rocked a Nikon FM series camera), but I use a Fuji X-Pro series camera now, which I feel are the spiritual successor to the Contax G series. 😊
Thank you!!!
I agree with your comment about the Fuji X-Pro series camera being the spiritual successor to the Contax G series. I still shoot with Contax G1 film cameras and also shoot with Fuji X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 digital cameras.
I would say Sony, as you can use your G lenses autofocus. Nail dolphins and stuff.
Contax G had a big pro user group. It's tech in the 90's,
you could say to a lot of people, they could fuck off with their camera.
Fuji does not. It is brand for fans and enthousiasts.
Fuji has crap lenses. They do have some cool body's.
Fuji X is nice, Contax was important.
I'm rather angry with the GFX, the micro lenses of sensor are different, than in the 645Z,
Hasselblads variant, older Hasselblads and Phase One that most likely used the sensor for a time. and It can't shoot colours, the 50mp.
Every colour has shifts, artefacts ... one of the things that could be important for using medium format
It must get the colours, possibly at the highest possible quality. Don't fall apart.
The 100mp is alright.
@@Jupiter4Alphs what are you talking about, in the age of computer aided design (i.e. the computer can number crunch optics) none of the big camera brands makes really bad lenses anymore (beyond subjective aspects)
Can u do another video on flash photography on this one? Im kinda confused on how does it work….Thanks!!!
Sounds like a good video idea to me! Thanks! I’ll get on it.
My favorite camera for the past decade. I currently own 3 of them and 1 broken one that came with one of my lenses that I plan to salvage for parts in the future in case one breaks.
Great video! Also! STFU DONT DRIVE UP THE PRICES ON MY GO TO CAMERA HOW COULD YOU?! (Jk…kinda)
G1 was great but G2 was even better. I had all of the lenses and accessories with two bodies and was stupid enough when I sold it. 2/45 is amazing.
Once a month or so I do some real soul searching, and think about putting the Leica for sale for a G2. That autofocus just makes it so darn appealing for any everyday future. And my God, they just look great.
Also, I wouldn't bother with the 21mm since you can't use the viewfinder for it, it requires a seperate shoe mounted one. And that means you need to check the camera one for focus and exposure and then the shoe mount for framing, and since it's shoe mount you won't get any parallax correction either. The 35mm is no good either, the 45mm planar is sharper.
Great review! Made me want the camera even more haha
You won’t regret it!
Make me wana pull the trigger found a whole g1 set with complete lenses flash etch for 700 jus waiting for the guys reply
Trying to decide between going for the G2 (for the 4000/6000 shutter speeds) or the Contax S2b but mainly just want to prioritise sharpness and image quality - if anybody’s got any experience with the CY mount 50mm 1.4?
depends on your familiarity and comfort with fully manual cameras, as well as your shooting style...I have an s2 with spot meter and 139q with center weighted meter...I have zeiss primes from 28mm to 300mm...including the 50mm 1.4 you asked about...it's a great lens...the 50mm 1.7 is great as well ...as far as image quality goes I have found that the correct metering,focusing, and aperture selection relative to the types of photos you take drive that...if you shoot landscapes/city scapes/ industrial type photos and shoot using the zone system..the cheaper s2 with spot meter would work and you wouldnt need the fast lens or use the fast shutter speed.. if you shoot street photos...the 50mm 1.4 with an aperture priority body is great...if you like portraits with wide open apertures the s2b with an 85mm1.4 would be great....if you are new to shooting film the g2 would be a good transitional camera to learn the idiosyncrasies of film before transitioning towards a fully manual camera
@@vincentdumlao9166 thanks for the reply vincent! I’m definitely more into the latter (portraits with some level of background blur f2.8-4), appreciate the reply 💪
I love how much people diss the camera like so what the auto focus is bad
Ok and just take the picture that’s the joy of photography is you taking the photo not the camera taking the photo
The biggest problem with these is that they are ALL electronic. Getting them repaired is ALMOST impossible and they one has a $400 brick. They were pretty and beautiful and the lenses are superb. One just never knows when they go south.
Exactly right. A ticking time bomb.
@@Overexposed1 Will be such an explosion ... mine have been solid performers for 20 years.
One is always the backup and the time bomb has yet to go off.
The backup is in very good condition.
Much easier to get one repaired, then repair It yourself.
It is not a Yamaha CS80
I’ve heard everyone saying the same thing about the g1’s- that they aren’t repairable but it’s not necessarily true. My g1 the focus stopped working and I’ve just had it repaired this week by a camera repair store here in Australia. I was surprised but stoked to have it refurbed like new again!
@@jasonplucas Glad that you have a repair facility in Australia. They were nice and innovative cameras (pretty also). So, I'm happy that you were able to keep yours working.
@@Jupiter4Alphs Happy for you. When they worked, they were (are) great.
If you used film camera's ... or rangefinder.
It was like a rangefinder from the future.
That was not a rangefinder. It shot a laserbeam spit out rolles, did paralax.
Now If you are scared of electronics, It can get moody and will bzzzz you with lenses
like a camera R2D2. If It would die ... I have another one ....
If It isn't that important for you, you don't have a backup.
Now all film body's have Loco prices,
It's still cheap.
What's expensive is eroding Leica S sensors ...
I have 2 sinds 2005. Not a problem.
They were intensely used. Shotting 5 rolls every day.
My main Yashica T4, get's stuck sometime. It was heavely abused.
Spare T4 and a Mju II never got any use.
The Trip 35mm
The original Pen F, and some lenses. I only use It to look cooler than them.
Some with the Ultramatic from V SLR with Leaf shutter.
I shot 2 OM's for work Nice system.
24mm - 135mm
Pentax ES
Takumars 35mm - 135mm
Had one M, but It got slow use. Or get's, I still use It.
Bessa and a Leica
Now I use 3 Sony's.
They shoot the Contax lenses. 45mm and 90mm
Also M VM 35mm 1.7, 50mm 1.5, Summicron 50mm, Summar 50mm, Summarit 50mm 1.5, Tele Elmarit 90mm 2.8, 90mm M Elmarit
Leica R 35mm Elmarit Rom, 50mm Summicron V1, 50mm Summicron V2, 80mm Noctilux Rom, 100mm Apo Macro Elmarit
M42 Zeiss Jena 75mm 1.5, 100mm Macro Planar f 2.0
MF Pentax 3 645's Not going to say all the lenses.
A Fuji GFX
It's mostly like the Matrix.
Call assistent. I need battery's, lot's of them.
Also lenses, give me 50's, all of them and camera's
That's more 50mm than the other glass combined.
I know those models will be shot, with an unusual amount of different lenses,
from the same distance. They will think why is he taking those close ups
but calls in the assistent every 5 minutes with a body ready with another 50
But none has ever done this before!
That's exactly why It will work.
Needing only 3 hours, but working 12 ...
I don't have a Canon anymore. They all died, broke
I only worry about the electronics with Canon.
Also they brake 1D MKII, was on tripod doing a 7 day stop motion,
someone bumped It 24-70L was in 3 peaces and peaces were shattered.
1D MKII, split in 2 from doing stop motion ... falling 1m.
Any camera can break. Use It then use a working one ...
A lot of G issue's are fixable.
overpriced in general.. the electronic is random & the camera can stop working for no reason. As i love to say for those little things "it falls it dies..." would certainly be one of my choice for streetphoto if it was still affordable or repairable for a fair price.. Can't wait to see the analog trend go down to maybe get this little beauty...
I won a G1 green label on ebay for $150. Hardly breaking the bank. The lenses on the other hand. While affordable, still on the higher side. It is Zeiss glass after all. If youre worried about your 35mm camera dying. But more like I did. In 3 months I bought 2 Contax’s and 1 yashica and 1 olympus. Spreading the usage around helps.
Camera bait is always good bait but the answer to the title is a strong no, for "most people". A camera with either good manual or auto focus alone will be a more useful tool than a camera that does both poorly. The G1 bodies are rarely sold without a lens and cheap for a reason. Because people getting into the G system never want to go back to the G1 if they can help it. Which is a shame because the body and lenses are well made with great features and excellent optics. The G1 autofocus just doesn't work well enough to justify the virtual absence of manual focus. It's ok for basically how you used it: very slow paced casual photography in a bright environment. The G2 redeems the G system somewhat and I love using mine despite the disadvantages of a rangefinder that relies on autofocus. I only wish Kyocera's Contax branch had lasted long enough to make a G3 with (electronically) rangefinder coupled manual focus, which, besides being hilariously convoluted and overengineered, would easily push it into one of the greatest advanced 35mm film cameras ever made alongside Nikon F4/F5/F6, Nikon 28/35 Ti and Minolta TC-1.
You should consider another Contax, the AX SLR for another video. It features my favorite focusing innovation of any camera: instead of focusing with the lens the camera moves the film plane instead! Allowing you to autofocus with manual focus lenses on the C/Y Mount, which has many high quality native Zeiss lenses! A digital version of this would be killer. Imagine using any manual lens on your modern BSI sensor mirrorless camera with autofocus!
Hope you check out the G2, my favorite 35mm camera.
no. bcs if its electronics goes its good bye
No.
Cool.