6 Steps to Better Food Plots (695)
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2022
- Sharing one of the best presentations we've ever heard about the principles of soil health and how to apply them by Keith Burns from Green Cover Seed.
@GrowingDeerTV
#deerhunting #TeamOutdoors #foodplots
We've been using Green Cover Seed food plot blends in our food plots for the last couple of years. There is more to the Green Cover Food Plot blends than attracting and feeding deer! For example deer find sunflower foliage palatable and it’s nutritious. Sunflowers have a very large fibrous root system that adds a lot of organic matter to the soil! It’s also excellent at extracting zinc from the soil and making it available to other plants (through a complex relationship with microbes).Determining the mission for the blend is extremely important. There is no magic bean or species, but rather good blends of plant species that can work together to improve the soil’s health and meet the landowner’s mission - whether that’s to attract and feed deer, cows, or humans.
This is why cover crops should be used in every ag field - in rotation with corn, soybeans, rice, etc. This can significantly reduce the need for synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, insecticide, fungicides, etc., while making farmers more profitable and improving the air, soil and water qualities at their farm and for the planet! - Спорт
My momma gave me grace everyday
We all need some grace!
Dr. Grant, you're one of the FEW people who can go through life with a "soiled" reputation, and actually be proud of it! 😆
Ha! Good one!
Excellent presentation Keith! Thanks for sharing! It is pretty obvious when we work with what God gives us we reap a much greater reward.
Thanks and yes!
Awesome information about soil! First time, using No-till process. Excited, thank you!🙂☘🦌👍
Thanks Belinda and let me know how it goes!
We are so blessed to have you sharing this information. Thank you.
Thanks Kurt!
Concepts that are taught before jr high school, Water cycle, life cycle, etc. I wish I could have made the field days. Will try again next year to get the specifics on how to make the food plots work.
Philip - I look forward to visiting with you! Our next Field Event will likely be during July or August 2023. There's already a list of folks that want to be notified as these events sell out. If you'd liked to be added to the list, email me at info@GrowingDeer.com.
Wow. Makes me want to go to college and take soil science. Thank you Dr. Grant! Peace and grace to you 🙏!
you can learn more about soil health on youtube than you could in any college
Learning about soil is fun!
I agree.
Thanks for the advice, your videos are Always so helpful and informational
Glad you like them!
Great great presentation. Partnership made in heaven! Thanks to both teams.
Our pleasure! Thanks Keith!
Planted early release in February and planting Warm Season Soil Builder next weekend. Purchased a crimper last fall. I currently rent the no till drill from the county. Looking forward the release process. Thanks for the video.
Mike - if the Early Release is lush, it will choke out the Warm Season Soil Builder. Let me know how it goes!
Really great info. Thanks for sharing his preso for the channel..
Welcome!
To that I say AMEN!
Yes!
Amen
Yes!
I am so great full I found this channel. Last year was our first year of food plotting in northwest Pennsylvania. Unfortunately, I didn’t have this information at the time. We used conventional planting methods. Our soil in this part of the country and especially here is dense clay. I an effort to start the transition to the release process, I was concerned about molding under the thatch of newly planted seeds. Most of the videos talk about drought or sandy soils. Even in hot,dry weather we still have moister in our fields. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance amend GodBless
Evening! Thanks for watching! Some type of nold, or fungus, can be very beneficial to plants in that they make nutrients available to them. Growing crops will remove a lot of moisture from the soil and the roots, if the soil isn't tilled, will helps the clay drain much better. Not disturbing the soil and keeping a crop growing as many days of the year as possible is one of the fastest ways to increase the productivity of clay soils. Be sure to plant blends so there are different sized roots and include some legumes in the blend so they will fix nitrogen (free nitrogen from the air!). Grasses such as cereal rye during the cool season and milo during the warm season have large roots that will help fracture the clay and remove excess moisture! Enjoy creation and keep me posted!
I really enjoyed this information. Helped make some sense of the process. I do have a question related to turf grass and yards though. Our lawn is Bermuda lawn....its dormant and brown all winter long here in West Texas. Does overseeding with perennial ryegrass help improve the soil during the winter months because it stays green during the cold winter months? The ryegrass has to be sprayed out with herbicide in the spring to allow the Bermuda to shine when warmer weather comes back. Just curious if that overseeding process would provide a soil improvement benefit similar to your discussions here.
Adding a growing root during the winter will help. But yards are typically managed for a monoculture which makes it tough to improve the soil's health. A diversity of plants with different root sizes, different solutions released from their roots, etc., is what results in rapid soil improvement!
Our nemesis is briars. Any suggestion on eradicating without destroying everything else? There is a 7 acre patch that has not been farmed for last three years due to eroded land. It has grown up in weeds, but briars have interlaced themselves throughout the patch. Was hoping it would be a good area for turkeys to nest and possibly have a few nest survive. Briars may become so bad that nothing wants to travel thru it, turkeys, deer, or me.
Dang - A prescribed fire can set briars back and then you may need to treat the new growth with a herbicide.
My comment didn’t post the first time so I will try again. Last year was our first year installing a food plot on our property in northwest Pennsylvania. Unfortunately I hadn’t found your channel first. We used conventional farming techniques but want to switch to the release process starting this year. Most of the presentations I have watched talk about sandy or rocky soils. We have very dense clay and even in dry conditions, the soil s moist. By adding thatch, do we need to be concerned about molding of germinating plants or any other concerns in this type soil at least until we obtain better soil health? Keep up the good work and GodBless!
Evening! Clay soils tend to hold moisture unless there's a variety of plants growing year round. Different species of plants have different root sizes and shapes. Some will go deep, like many of the grasses (milo and cereal rye), and most legumes have a shallow and fibrous root system. Different species of plants also feed different species of life in the soil. Tillage kills earthworm earthworm do a great job of aerating the soil and creating better drainage. Following the principles of improving soil health and you'll be amazed at how the clay at your place improves and gets a layer of black organic matter on top!
Love you vids
Thanks!
Just got a question or Mabe ur thoughts on how to fix this problem…I’ve been using cover crops and using green cover seeds for 4 years now and great results my question is how can I help with some ponding spots? Would Aerating work?
Mike - if vegetation is growing in the areas that pond the roots will break the hardpan. Typically this isn't all at once but the ponds get smaller and smaller each year as plant roots soften the edges of the pond.
What's with the constant plates? 🍽️ Holy 🐄 cow.
The first 10-12 minutes are brutal to listen to.
Holy CHRISTMAS!!! 14 MINUTES AND THEY ARE WHAT? SORTING SOUP BOWLS JUST OFF CAMERA!?!?!?
Is that all you got out of that presentation? Keith spoke at a banquet so the servers were working to clear the tables. I'm thankful they gave us great service!
No its not. But i took nothing from the first 15 minutes. Don't get defensive. After the first 14:29 its a great video. But the first 14:2? I couldn't tell what was said. I was to distracted. Video has a lot of valuable information. I also like David Brandt. Both gentlemen are on the same page.
Grant have you done any soil studies where you’ve used burn rotations for several years?
I haven't. However, the Native Americans burned frequently and those soils were great!
Content of six truths starts at 12:15 minutes in
I guess I keep missing it....HOW do we get the nitrogen out of the air for free?
Plant legumes like clover, soybeans etc. They "fix nitrogen" by pulling the nitrogen out of the air and inputting it into the soil through the nodules in the roots. These are annual plants, so when they die, they become a mulch layer and as it decomposes, this acts as a slow release fertilizer.
@@natenewman7513 So, I get that. However, I've had White Clover in my "maverick" food plot for the last 5 years PH is 5.9, clover is awesome. Soil test says 150lbs of nitrogen is required. I also caught a glimpse of Dr. Grants soil test that called for 150lbs of Nitrogen as well. If clover is putting the Nitrogen back into my soil why does my test still say 150lbs is needed?? Is it really, truly needed?
@@ryanschoon8699 sorry man, this sounds like a technical question where you need an expert. Maybe you can call your local extension agent? I would think it depends a lot on how much nitrogen fixing plants you have. Planting soybeans, rape, vetch, and other legumes that die and decompose should create a mulch layer of nitrogen rich organic matter. If you're just using clover, then this will work more slowly. This is my hypothesis, but again, I would call your extension agent for a very technical question like this.
@@ryanschoon8699 Dale Strickler from Green Cover Seed has a good recent video on soil sample results. He showed a lot of problems with the people interpreting the results. It seems that some of the answers are just generic and incorrect. His video was on Potassium results but I imagine it can be the same for N. I get your question and wish you well.
Ryan - Checkout Ward Labs - they use a water-based test - most labs use an acid-based test. It doesn't rain acid and those aren't accurate results. Have you been adding 150 pounds of nitrogen annually? I haven't added any nitrogen in 8 years in the form of fertilizer. In addition, it's very important to tell the lab what you wish to grow. I can't imagine any lab recommending 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre for clover! That's a lot for my grass or non legume crop. Let me as I'm very curious about your question and results.