you probably dont care but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost my login password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Giovanni Benson i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
That is the best video the QDMA has ever done. This revives so many of the lessons learned and shared in the online forum the QDMA took down a few years ago. I'm very happy to see the association is finally sharing the right information, irrespective of advertising dollars from seed companies and implement manufacturers. Heck, I might renew my membership and pursue my Deer Steward II certification, after all.
Instead of mowing the residue and then seeding, seed first and then mow the residue on top of the seeds. It helps the seeds make seed to soil contact. You can follow with a cultipacker if you want.
I plant all my food plots using minimal equipment and a lot of hand tools. I also grow using organic methods. The soil is preserved better this way and the results are very good and economical. But there are two points I would make here. One is that "no equipment" is a VERY misleading statement. You will need equipment....just not necessarily the exact same tools usually used on a major ag farm. Lawn mowers, hand rakes, ATV's, cultipackers, sprayers, and seeders will all be needed. I often also use weed eaters, tools to set and control prescribed fire, lime spreaders, and various other items of equipment such as carts or trailers to get all that stuff out to a food plot. And, if you have to erect fencing, you will need a few MORE tools and equipment items for that! That's a LOT of equipment! It isn't possible to plant and get really good results by truly using "no equipment " whatsoever so don't fall for that bull. You can usually borrow or even rent some of the things you will need however. Two is that you will spend MORE for seed costs planting using these methods. Very tiny seeds, as stated in the video, will self plant if broadcast ahead of a solid, hard rain. Clovers, many brassicas, and other tiny seeds are the best choice for planting into stubble. They filter down to the soil easily. But you still need to distribute about TWICE as many seeds if you are just broad casting on the surface rather than planting into the soil. Lots of seeds lying unburied on the top of the ground get consumed by birds, mice, squirrels, and other wildlife very quickly. Others may get washed off by a hard rain if you have much slope. Bigger seeds like peas, beans, sunn hemp, sunflowers, milo, etc. are going to have to make FIRM contact with the actual soil. The presence of a layer of mulch in a field prepared like the video shows is going to hinder that contact. Any seed that fails to reach the soil is never going to germinate. So if you intend to plant larger seeds with this method be prepared to so quite a bit more seed than using conventional planting methods that deposit the seeds directly INTO the soil. Running implements over the field after the larger seeds are broad cast is an effort to try to push the seeds down to make contact with the soil. This helps but it still is NOT EQUAL in effectiveness to directly planting such as via no till methods straight into the soil. So your seed costs will be much higher using this method if you use any type of larger seeds. Most videos tend to claim it really takes almost nothing to create a good food plot. The reality is there are many ways to create good food plots but they all require quite a bit of time, money, and effort if you want the best results. There are no short cuts. And bear in mind this video didn't discuss the soil testing, liming, and fertilizer issues that also go into creating a good food plot. All the above said, I heartily recommend using the methods in this video. Less soil disturbance means less weed issues and less competition for your food plot plants. The other benefits of erosion control, building quality soil, etc. are well covered in the video. Just be realistic in your expectations and be willing to put some genuine money and time into the efforts. You will be rewarded with more and bigger deer!
Its not just organic, its regenerative farming. Its getting very popular as no chemicals are needed. It really works. What works best is to no till drill in the seed and do not spray.
ya he needs to get rid of the spraying part, its a horrible technic. Rain will runoff roundup and it will end up in stream, will end up on new growth and in the soil. Poison should never be used, i dont know who had a genius idea to grow food with poison applied on it....
do it all the time works great spread and them mow over a couple times. the disturbance from the mower shakes the seed to the soil. absolutely no need to spray any chemicals. if you have a rather quick growing weed you can come back in 4 to 7 days and remow it
No. In our case, the mowing is necessary first to get the existing vegetation low enough for an effective, one-time herbicide treatment. When weeds are heavy enough, not mowing first means you may have to repeat herbicide treatments, and we try to avoid that.
I was so excited to see that your going organic and talking organic and no till. Then you actually spray glyphosate! It is to bad that you couldn't do it all organic. I've been doing organic food plots for the last ten years. I challenge you to do this without chemicals. And truly go organic.
We urge hunters not to use herbicides if they don't need them. Not everyone needs to use herbicide on weeds to do this, but sometimes there are weed infestations that cannot be controlled with mechanical methods. In those instances, we support the use of appropriate herbicides according to the label. The preponderance of the scientific evidence suggests that glyphosate is safe when used according to label instructions.
I was following along and excited about this until you mentioned glyphosate. What I’ve read is glyphosate reduces beneficial microbes and preserves pathogenic. I wonder if covering with tarps would be a better option.
This is a great idea, I do the same with soybeans then after post spray add red clover, radish, turnips and oats. The clover comes back in spring for nitrogen fixation for your next crop.
Good video. I eat organic produce and meat. Regarding no till use as little chemical as necessary - sometimes I do but am trying to eliminate it. Certainly not easy. No till has allowed me to get away from synthetic fertilizers by building up soil fingi and biomass. In addition - cover crops and always having soil covered eliminates erosion
So if I have a fall annual planted. Let it sit over winter then in the spring. Mow the dead stuff, spray then plant my annual clover timed with a good rain. Can I skip the spraying and try to over seed.
Ya man skip the spraying. Instead of spraying you can take a rider mower out and mow at the highest hight possible. If you keep on it you will cut down the weeds before they go to seed and the clover takes over. If you add some turnips now they should get big enough to help break up the soil. Thus the turnips are like a plow but with the added benefit of leaving behind organic material to build up your soils. Have fun. With regards to any food plot besides corn and beans. When the weeds are taller than your planted product go in and mow the top of your weeds off and the planted product. for example sorghum or millet with grow past the weeds and you'll be stoked. But the key to organic is mowing the weeds down when they need it. Sometimes I have to take the tractor out with a mower on the back and keep it two feet off the ground to cut the tops of weeds off. Thats the deal. have fun.
@@curtismulder1950 I just bought my first hunting ground. So no pun intended I'm green at this. I have a couple videos with food plots, mainly to look back on. I just did buckwheat for soil building, now getting ready to do a mixed blend here soon. I have my first plots on video on my channel
You can certainly skip spraying if it isn't necessary. If weeds are not a problem, you don't need to spray. For example, if you traditionally have trouble with warm-season weeds but not cool-season weeds in this particular plot, then mowing in late summer and overseeding with your cool-season annual clover should work fine. Just depends on the weed history at this site, which you should be familiar with.
Glyphosate is not soil active, and the improvement we see in soil health, composition and fertility suggests that any harm caused by glyphosate is far less than the harm caused by disking. As for burning, it's very difficult to burn a green, growing field of weeds, and if the weeds are dead/dormant, then burning them greatly reduces the amount of organic material available for soil-improvement.
Yes, you can get glyphosate and other herbicides at Tractor Supply. Prices vary across time, so we're not going to quote current prices. It's an affordable herbicide.
If weed density is light enough, you could hand-pull the few that grow. Or in the case of plants like thistle, chop off the stalk (repeatedly as it regrows) to prevent it from flowering and producing seeds. If the "weeds" are plants that deer will eat, then just leave them alone. But in most cases, grass and broadleaf weeds are going to be dense enough that they will prevent your planted seeds from growing and thriving. If you're really just opposed to using glyphosate, then there are grass-selective and broad-leaf selective herbicides you could use depending on the makeup of the weeds you need to control.
Good Info, I have a X1100C Kubota RTV and bought the 3 point and disk from UTV Hitchworks Its adjustable angle, Gives me 500 lbs. of downforce plus the disk weight of over 300 lbs. But I also just tried some No-Plow, Good Info, Do you suggest a no plow for a fall Food Plot I may try it and put it up on my channel.
Catch the soil moist and you can "no till drill" . If you're having trouble getting seed to soil contact with larger seeds just use your drill without plowing the soil. Works fine we do it all the time.
I was thinking about broadcasting seed into standing orchard grass fescue etc. Running a cultipacker then spray with round up 2 qt per acre do you think I can spray over my seed?
You CAN spray over the broadcast seed, but you don't want to. You want to spray a couple of weeks prior to spreading the seeds to eliminate all competition for the new plants. You don't want the existing grass to compete with the germinating plants, even for a short time.
I lightly hit my plots with a propane weed burner. Just enough to wilt the top growth. Doesn't kill the weeds, just knocked them back enough to let the new seeds get started.
Its very difficult. I had your same mindset for a long time. Every food plot that I have ever attempted without spraying herbicide first has failed. I finally broke down and sprayed. Its not the end of the world. Gone in about 2 weeks.
JR Huntin if you are doing it as described in this video, by spreading the seeds on top, then yes. If no-till drilling, you will actually use less seed.
I have another question, I'm in North Louisiana and the week of straight rain that we're experiencing right now is apparently going to turn into TWO weeks of straight rain. I didn't start up my no-till food plots yet and I'm probably not going to be able to until September 18th after waiting a week for the glyphosate to do its job. Is this too late into the season to plant? Also I don't know for sure if we're going to get heavy rain like this after I plant. Can I just rake the seeds across the mulch to drive them down closer to the soil?
First planting should be something that’s gonna be able to fill in as a green manure that’s gonna put nitrogen back into the soil. Clover, alfalfa, triticale, winter rye, winter wheat, oats. All great green manure cover crops to over seed then mow in/till in the material to build up the soil
Great video and very informative, I have some newly planted pear and crabapple trees (in grow tubes)near a power line clear cut that I was going to clear for a fall food plot. I am worried about killing off the fruit trees by spraying glyphosate. Will glyphosate kill the fruit trees ? I appreciate any and all help
Yes. Fruit trees are very sensitive to glyphosate even if your wind is good. I would leave a decent buffer AND make sure the wind is in your favor. If it's small use a backpack sprayer, take an old plastic pot and turn it upsidedown and put the wand through the hole. You might have to duct tape this to stay. The pot will reduce any spray drift on the cheap!
If you have a piece of land that has been pasture for about 10 years with no cattle on it in Alabama (prairie soil/clay) do you need to disc it the first time? The reason I ask is that most of the grass plants that are in there are very well established.
Poison the grass and wait about 3 weeks go back with your seed and broadcast your seed and then mow down the dead grass on top of your seeds right before a good rain and they will germinate and stout up. Hope that helps n in some way,(subscribe too mo deer outdoors) thanks:
Depending on what you plant you can go back with some types of select herbicide if the weeds are that bad. Again depending on what you plant mowing works well also. One of the great advantages of not turning the soil is that you’re not bringing older dormant seeds towards the surface where they can germinate. Over time (a couple plantings) weed competition will be greatly reduced. You will still get some, and most of that will be introduced by animal dropping’s, wind and pretty much every way nature distributes seed but it pretty negligible. If the are you are looking to plant is a real thick weedy area, with a lot of tall weeds and shorter weeds under them, you may want to mow it first. Let it grow for a week, then hit with glyphosate. Glyphosate is a lot more effective if the plant is actively growing. Also applying glyphosate after a rain or heavy dew when the leaves are taking in moister works well. Give it a week or two to die off, then broadcast seed, lime and fertilizer and mow again.. Good luck.
Just curious....how would you change this strategy / these steps for a fall planting of Austrian Winter peas? Assuming that the same plot was planted the prior spring in iron clay cow peas? Thanks in advance!
I am new to the food plot world. Is it not kind of contradictory that all those experts state we need to move to be organic, no till, etc but then immediately tell you to spray with glyphosate?
He kept saying organic in the beginning then talked alot about spraying glyphosphate. How is that organic? I till and rake so i dont have to use herbicide.
We don't think it's necessary. It will break down on its own. You're going to have a mix of small and large residue, and that's okay. The larger pieces are heavier and help hold things in place in high winds or rain.
Possibly. However, in the case in this video, the existing crop residue and weeds were too deep to allow for effective control of weeds with herbicide. Mowing first allowed for effective control with minimal, one-time use of herbicides.
This is the method ive used for a couple years. Works good. If you see you need to spray again after mowing you can still spray that day maybe couple days after if you dont have seed germinating
Glyphosate is a contact herbicide that will not hurt the seeds or remain active in soil. It only affects plants when it contacts living leaves. So, as long as your seed has not germinated yet when you spray, it should work.
how do you fertilize, lime, etc? i understand that soil conditions would improve with this method theoretically, but id imagine this would take years. So step 1 = Mow Step 2 = Seed ??? please advise
Quick question. How do you get soil amendments into the soil? For example, I currently have a half acre plot that I plan on planting this year and it requires 2500 lbs of lime. In addition I need to add moderate amounts of NPK to the location. Is it safe to assume that you would simply broadcast the amendments after mowing/spraying with rain in the forecast? Thank you.
Is Deer gro plot start really a lime alternative? My USDA office says no. Deer GRO is calcium chloride, lime is calcium carbonate. True liquid lime, is made of calcium carbonate correct? Why are youtubers promoting a product that is not really benefiting the soil? Can you do a video explaining the difference between calcium chloride and calcium carbonate(lime). Ive heard calcium chloride is used on highways as a brine since it don't freeze, as well as in tires.. I'd like to use liquid lime, but feel I've been tricked by false marketing and people getting paid lots of $$ to promote a product that really is not beneficial to my soil and food plots.
@Joshua Soileau I have tried to roll with my cultipacker and seed but the elytrigia repens keeps growing and is too competitive for other crops to take over. Thank you for the tip tough. If you have other ideas - they are much appreciated.
Burning reduces the material to nutrients that can be absorbed into soil, but ideally you want to allow the soil to begin recovering its natural layers of organic material with larger particles on top. The heavy mulch also helps hold soil in place, conserve moisture, and has other benefits.
The preponderance of the scientific evidence says that glyphosate is safe for you and for the environment *when used according to the label instructions and precautions*. If it didn't, we would not recommend using it. We believe in minimal use of herbicides, and we promote alternatives wherever we can, but sometimes they are necessary. Also, we did not say tilling is bad, only that no-till is better for the soil.
It is not needed in every case. There are mechanical methods for weed control (including disking), and sometimes weed infestations are minor enough that you can hand-pull. Sometimes the weeds are even good deer food. But in some cases you will not be able to bring weeds under control (especially non-native, invasive species) without herbicides.
Great video until you talk about spraying roundup. Quit poisoning the evironment. If you get enough biomater built up on the surface, you should not need to keep spraying.
The preponderance of the scientific evidence suggests that glyphosate is safe when used according to label instructions. Not everyone needs to use herbicide on weeds to do this, but sometimes there are weed infestations that cannot be controlled with mechanical methods. In those instances, we support the use of appropriate herbicides according to the label.
please provide evidence that glyphosate is damaging to the environment. Also, you are incorrect, a bio-matter build up will increase fertility, thus increasing native germination. THUS requiring spray to kill off competing weeds......
@@quinnm.2314 There is evidence out there that shows the dangers of glysophate even after Monsanto has TRIED ferociously to cover it up. Watch some of the European videos where cows and pigs were born deformed after the parent animals were grazed on fields where it was sprayed. The issues cleared up after the animals were fed differently. I do agree that an increase in biomass increases the soil fertility IF the soil has a chance to build up the biological life back up to natural levels. Tillage, man made fertilizers, and chemicals that include glysophate kill off the soil biology. With increased fertility, the natural grasses and other "weeds" benefit also. Spraying may be needed ( I cringe) depending on the cover crops and management style to reduce the weed seed bank. For reference, look up any of the numerous videos on "biodynamics"
@@quinnm.2314 A quick search of "effect of glysophate on soil biology" will give plenty of evidence. Here is the first one I looked at. ua-cam.com/video/fpJSdSXAlwg/v-deo.html
We have heavy red-clay soils here at HQ in Georgia. The plot in this video is on former farmlands that were heavily eroded over decades, removing top soils and leaving red clay sublayers. It still works. You just have to build organic matter again over time by following the process.
You are incorrect. Glyphosate is not soil active, and it certainly is not causing compaction. Compaction comes from repeated rounds of disking and heavy equipment on the field. Using this no-till method, we see soil fertility increase over time, reducing the amount of fertilizer inputs that are necessary. That wouldn't happen if microbial activity was declining.
Everyone else, please stop. THIS is the ONLY no-till food plot video you will EVER need. PERFECTION.
you probably dont care but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my login password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Nelson Samir Instablaster ;)
@Giovanni Benson i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Giovanni Benson It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out!
@Nelson Samir you are welcome :D
That is the best video the QDMA has ever done. This revives so many of the lessons learned and shared in the online forum the QDMA took down a few years ago. I'm very happy to see the association is finally sharing the right information, irrespective of advertising dollars from seed companies and implement manufacturers. Heck, I might renew my membership and pursue my Deer Steward II certification, after all.
Spray throw and mow. Very simple. Don't mow first, put your seeds down after spraying then mow your thatch over the seeds. Works flawlessly.
Instead of mowing the residue and then seeding, seed first and then mow the residue on top of the seeds. It helps the seeds make seed to soil contact. You can follow with a cultipacker if you want.
I was going to write precisely that. Simplification makes it more efficient which translate to better results with less fuzz. ;-)
I prefer seeding first as well.
I think its the best method to use.....
I plant all my food plots using minimal equipment and a lot of hand tools. I also grow using organic methods. The soil is preserved better this way and the results are very good and economical. But there are two points I would make here.
One is that "no equipment" is a VERY misleading statement. You will need equipment....just not necessarily the exact same tools usually used on a major ag farm. Lawn mowers, hand rakes, ATV's, cultipackers, sprayers, and seeders will all be needed. I often also use weed eaters, tools to set and control prescribed fire, lime spreaders, and various other items of equipment such as carts or trailers to get all that stuff out to a food plot. And, if you have to erect fencing, you will need a few MORE tools and equipment items for that!
That's a LOT of equipment! It isn't possible to plant and get really good results by truly using "no equipment " whatsoever so don't fall for that bull. You can usually borrow or even rent some of the things you will need however.
Two is that you will spend MORE for seed costs planting using these methods. Very tiny seeds, as stated in the video, will self plant if broadcast ahead of a solid, hard rain. Clovers, many brassicas, and other tiny seeds are the best choice for planting into stubble. They filter down to the soil easily. But you still need to distribute about TWICE as many seeds if you are just broad casting on the surface rather than planting into the soil. Lots of seeds lying unburied on the top of the ground get consumed by birds, mice, squirrels, and other wildlife very quickly. Others may get washed off by a hard rain if you have much slope.
Bigger seeds like peas, beans, sunn hemp, sunflowers, milo, etc. are going to have to make FIRM contact with the actual soil. The presence of a layer of mulch in a field prepared like the video shows is going to hinder that contact. Any seed that fails to reach the soil is never going to germinate. So if you intend to plant larger seeds with this method be prepared to so quite a bit more seed than using conventional planting methods that deposit the seeds directly INTO the soil. Running implements over the field after the larger seeds are broad cast is an effort to try to push the seeds down to make contact with the soil. This helps but it still is NOT EQUAL in effectiveness to directly planting such as via no till methods straight into the soil. So your seed costs will be much higher using this method if you use any type of larger seeds.
Most videos tend to claim it really takes almost nothing to create a good food plot. The reality is there are many ways to create good food plots but they all require quite a bit of time, money, and effort if you want the best results. There are no short cuts. And bear in mind this video didn't discuss the soil testing, liming, and fertilizer issues that also go into creating a good food plot.
All the above said, I heartily recommend using the methods in this video. Less soil disturbance means less weed issues and less competition for your food plot plants. The other benefits of erosion control, building quality soil, etc. are well covered in the video. Just be realistic in your expectations and be willing to put some genuine money and time into the efforts. You will be rewarded with more and bigger deer!
Its not just organic, its regenerative farming. Its getting very popular as no chemicals are needed. It really works. What works best is to no till drill in the seed and do not spray.
ya he needs to get rid of the spraying part, its a horrible technic. Rain will runoff roundup and it will end up in stream, will end up on new growth and in the soil. Poison should never be used, i dont know who had a genius idea to grow food with poison applied on it....
Have you ever tried seeding then mowing after that to leave the thatch from mowing on top of the broadcast seed?
do it all the time works great spread and them mow over a couple times. the disturbance from the mower shakes the seed to the soil. absolutely no need to spray any chemicals. if you have a rather quick growing weed you can come back in 4 to 7 days and remow it
No. In our case, the mowing is necessary first to get the existing vegetation low enough for an effective, one-time herbicide treatment. When weeds are heavy enough, not mowing first means you may have to repeat herbicide treatments, and we try to avoid that.
The problem is that we get streaky seed distribution and poor coverage.
I was so excited to see that your going organic and talking organic and no till. Then you actually spray glyphosate! It is to bad that you couldn't do it all organic. I've been doing organic food plots for the last ten years. I challenge you to do this without chemicals. And truly go organic.
I would like to try it. Maybe next spring. I have outdoors travel and few food plot videos
We urge hunters not to use herbicides if they don't need them. Not everyone needs to use herbicide on weeds to do this, but sometimes there are weed infestations that cannot be controlled with mechanical methods. In those instances, we support the use of appropriate herbicides according to the label. The preponderance of the scientific evidence suggests that glyphosate is safe when used according to label instructions.
Once sprayed it's no longer organic and the deer ingest it and you eat the deer and then your ingesting the cancer causing chemical, right
Tell me more about the organic food plots
Monsanto recommends spraying all land with round-up. It adds flavour to all your meat products and then spray it again. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video/info!. What about areas with higher clay content surface is pretty hard?
Can you skip the glyphosate and still get decent results?
I was following along and excited about this until you mentioned glyphosate. What I’ve read is glyphosate reduces beneficial microbes and preserves pathogenic. I wonder if covering with tarps would be a better option.
This is a great idea, I do the same with soybeans then after post spray add red clover, radish, turnips and oats. The clover comes back in spring for nitrogen fixation for your next crop.
Good video. I eat organic produce and meat. Regarding no till use as little chemical as necessary - sometimes I do but am trying to eliminate it. Certainly not easy. No till has allowed me to get away from synthetic fertilizers by building up soil fingi and biomass. In addition - cover crops and always having soil covered eliminates erosion
So if I have a fall annual planted. Let it sit over winter then in the spring. Mow the dead stuff, spray then plant my annual clover timed with a good rain. Can I skip the spraying and try to over seed.
Ya man skip the spraying. Instead of spraying you can take a rider mower out and mow at the highest hight possible. If you keep on it you will cut down the weeds before they go to seed and the clover takes over. If you add some turnips now they should get big enough to help break up the soil. Thus the turnips are like a plow but with the added benefit of leaving behind organic material to build up your soils. Have fun. With regards to any food plot besides corn and beans. When the weeds are taller than your planted product go in and mow the top of your weeds off and the planted product. for example sorghum or millet with grow past the weeds and you'll be stoked. But the key to organic is mowing the weeds down when they need it. Sometimes I have to take the tractor out with a mower on the back and keep it two feet off the ground to cut the tops of weeds off. Thats the deal. have fun.
@@curtismulder1950 I just bought my first hunting ground. So no pun intended I'm green at this. I have a couple videos with food plots, mainly to look back on. I just did buckwheat for soil building, now getting ready to do a mixed blend here soon. I have my first plots on video on my channel
You can certainly skip spraying if it isn't necessary. If weeds are not a problem, you don't need to spray. For example, if you traditionally have trouble with warm-season weeds but not cool-season weeds in this particular plot, then mowing in late summer and overseeding with your cool-season annual clover should work fine. Just depends on the weed history at this site, which you should be familiar with.
This guy is awesome when I see 👀 what he is doing I am learning a lot from this man he is the best😁
Does the glyphosate harm the soil bacteria and fungal matter? Can you torch the weeds instead of spraying?
Glyphosate is not soil active, and the improvement we see in soil health, composition and fertility suggests that any harm caused by glyphosate is far less than the harm caused by disking. As for burning, it's very difficult to burn a green, growing field of weeds, and if the weeds are dead/dormant, then burning them greatly reduces the amount of organic material available for soil-improvement.
@@DeerAssociation Thank you
that is a sweet plot, not sure ive seen tall crop mixed with low crop and thats smart
Do I Have To Spray In A Fresh Cut And Baled Hay Field ? I Want To Plant Turnips ,Thanks...
Without tilling, can you no till plant big seeds like corn or soybeans? I am new to the foodplot scene
I would appreciate a quick reply from this channel to this question: how much does glyphosate cost and can I get it from Tractor Supply?
It's basically roundup. You can get it anywhere that sells weed killer
Yes, you can get glyphosate and other herbicides at Tractor Supply. Prices vary across time, so we're not going to quote current prices. It's an affordable herbicide.
@@DeerAssociation 1
What about sowing the seed then mowing the plants residue on top of the seed?
What is the alternative to spraying glyphosate to kill?
If weed density is light enough, you could hand-pull the few that grow. Or in the case of plants like thistle, chop off the stalk (repeatedly as it regrows) to prevent it from flowering and producing seeds. If the "weeds" are plants that deer will eat, then just leave them alone. But in most cases, grass and broadleaf weeds are going to be dense enough that they will prevent your planted seeds from growing and thriving. If you're really just opposed to using glyphosate, then there are grass-selective and broad-leaf selective herbicides you could use depending on the makeup of the weeds you need to control.
Good Info, I have a X1100C Kubota RTV and bought the 3 point and disk from UTV Hitchworks Its adjustable angle, Gives me 500 lbs. of downforce plus the disk weight of over 300 lbs. But I also just tried some No-Plow, Good Info, Do you suggest a no plow for a fall Food Plot I may try it and put it up on my channel.
Yes, we suggest no-till for any season. We've used it for both warm- and cool-season plots.
Catch the soil moist and you can "no till drill" . If you're having trouble getting seed to soil contact with larger seeds just use your drill without plowing the soil. Works fine we do it all the time.
I was thinking about broadcasting seed into standing orchard grass fescue etc. Running a cultipacker then spray with round up 2 qt per acre do you think I can spray over my seed?
You CAN spray over the broadcast seed, but you don't want to. You want to spray a couple of weeks prior to spreading the seeds to eliminate all competition for the new plants. You don't want the existing grass to compete with the germinating plants, even for a short time.
I don't want to use glyphosate. Any suggestions?
I lightly hit my plots with a propane weed burner. Just enough to wilt the top growth. Doesn't kill the weeds, just knocked them back enough to let the new seeds get started.
Thanks John. I’ve started using vinegar solution. Will see how this works. I’m going to be looking for a burner.
@@patrickhobbs976
Mow the weeds before they produce seeds.
Its very difficult. I had your same mindset for a long time. Every food plot that I have ever attempted without spraying herbicide first has failed. I finally broke down and sprayed. Its not the end of the world. Gone in about 2 weeks.
Do you increase seeding rate any using the no till? Ive always increased my seed rate for seed that birds eat, dont germinate etc..
JR Huntin if you are doing it as described in this video, by spreading the seeds on top, then yes. If no-till drilling, you will actually use less seed.
I have another question, I'm in North Louisiana and the week of straight rain that we're experiencing right now is apparently going to turn into TWO weeks of straight rain. I didn't start up my no-till food plots yet and I'm probably not going to be able to until September 18th after waiting a week for the glyphosate to do its job. Is this too late into the season to plant? Also I don't know for sure if we're going to get heavy rain like this after I plant. Can I just rake the seeds across the mulch to drive them down closer to the soil?
How long do you have to wait to plant after spraying glyphosate?
You do not have to wait. Glyphosate is not soil active. It is a contact herbicide and must be sprayed on growing leaves.
Whitetail Habitat Solutions also has great information. Thank you for the great information.
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Would hey be alright for the first planting then go forward with mowing the dead growth? Great video
First planting should be something that’s gonna be able to fill in as a green manure that’s gonna put nitrogen back into the soil. Clover, alfalfa, triticale, winter rye, winter wheat, oats. All great green manure cover crops to over seed then mow in/till in the material to build up the soil
Nice I kinda want to try some no spray plots. New at doing food plots I put a couple videos on
Great video and very informative, I have some newly planted pear and crabapple trees (in grow tubes)near a power line clear cut that I was going to clear for a fall food plot. I am worried about killing off the fruit trees by spraying glyphosate. Will glyphosate kill the fruit trees ? I appreciate any and all help
Yes. Fruit trees are very sensitive to glyphosate even if your wind is good. I would leave a decent buffer AND make sure the wind is in your favor. If it's small use a backpack sprayer, take an old plastic pot and turn it upsidedown and put the wand through the hole. You might have to duct tape this to stay. The pot will reduce any spray drift on the cheap!
@@patrickcline5944 to do see
What is the name of the disc/cultipacker combo manufacturer? Thanks
“These voices “ boi you better give credit them natives😂❤
If you have a piece of land that has been pasture for about 10 years with no cattle on it in Alabama (prairie soil/clay) do you need to disc it the first time? The reason I ask is that most of the grass plants that are in there are very well established.
Poison the grass and wait about 3 weeks go back with your seed and broadcast your seed and then mow down the dead grass on top of your seeds right before a good rain and they will germinate and stout up. Hope that helps n in some way,(subscribe too mo deer outdoors) thanks:
I did a no plow plot last hunting season it did fine for almost 4 weeks and 2 weeks before bow it died out
what did you plant and what did you do to prepare?
@@quinnm.2314 the no plow fall mix I think is what it was and I got a soil sample and added what the sample suggested
Do you think brown top millet is good candidate for no till technique
Yes. Millet seeds are relatively small and will work very well.
How would you incorporate your lime to raise the ph to 6.5 7.0 any help would be greatly appreciated!
I really don’t wanna use glyphosate or any chemicals on anything I’m sure that’s not possible?
He says 2oz per gallon, but how many gallons per acre?
Works great! I like to spread plenty of hardwood ash in the spring, and harrow it in! Plant with early summer rain!
Hardwood ash? Please tell me more.
Thats how i plant...used to do the disc, spray,cultipack etc...but now i broadcast over mowing comes up good
Can you do it without glyphosate?
Starting up a new plot that was formerly big timber should I till/disc the first time?
No
I’m going to try this, this summer
Good luck with it! Thanks for watching.
Could you broadcast and then mow?
Oh, and I really love this video. So instructive.
Where can a person purchase the seed blend you use
i just cleared some woods .can I plant no till food plots on this land
Yes, you certainly can.
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
What do you do about weeds? I know the old growth can act as mulch and cover weed seed but what about after you planted? Do you go back and spray?
I broadcast clover right over cut weeds...waited till September cut all the weeds off with brushhog and clover exploaded over weeds
Depending on what you plant you can go back with some types of select herbicide if the weeds are that bad. Again depending on what you plant mowing works well also. One of the great advantages of not turning the soil is that you’re not bringing older dormant seeds towards the surface where they can germinate. Over time (a couple plantings) weed competition will be greatly reduced. You will still get some, and most of that will be introduced by animal dropping’s, wind and pretty much every way nature distributes seed but it pretty negligible. If the are you are looking to plant is a real thick weedy area, with a lot of tall weeds and shorter weeds under them, you may want to mow it first. Let it grow for a week, then hit with glyphosate. Glyphosate is a lot more effective if the plant is actively growing. Also applying glyphosate after a rain or heavy dew when the leaves are taking in moister works well. Give it a week or two to die off, then broadcast seed, lime and fertilizer and mow again.. Good luck.
Just curious....how would you change this strategy / these steps for a fall planting of Austrian Winter peas? Assuming that the same plot was planted the prior spring in iron clay cow peas? Thanks in advance!
I am new to the food plot world. Is it not kind of contradictory that all those experts state we need to move to be organic, no till, etc but then immediately tell you to spray with glyphosate?
He kept saying organic in the beginning then talked alot about spraying glyphosphate. How is that organic? I till and rake so i dont have to use herbicide.
Would you be able to use the same style of planting with a cornfield? Or is this more for clovers and beans?
4 years to late but yes corn could work just as well
Seed suggestions for western East Texas near college station
would it be wise to cut up the old plant residue left on the ground to make it finer?
We don't think it's necessary. It will break down on its own. You're going to have a mix of small and large residue, and that's okay. The larger pieces are heavier and help hold things in place in high winds or rain.
Buck wheat a Phosphorus builder! Good stuff!!!
Could you spray, then seed, then mow, so the duff is on top of the seed?
Possibly. However, in the case in this video, the existing crop residue and weeds were too deep to allow for effective control of weeds with herbicide. Mowing first allowed for effective control with minimal, one-time use of herbicides.
This is the method ive used for a couple years. Works good. If you see you need to spray again after mowing you can still spray that day maybe couple days after if you dont have seed germinating
Sprayed 2oz to the gallon with what? Round up? I didn’t quite understand what he said he used.
Glyphosate, which is the active ingredient in Roundup. The same active ingredient is available under other brand names though.
@@DeerAssociation thank you!
Love this video, this is what we are doing on my small 🌿Ranch🍀 👨🏻👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
I'd like to try broadcasting, mowing then spraying. In theory it sounds great but has anyone tried this that can confirm?
I have sprayed, come back couple weeks later put seed out, and then mowed it. Worked really good with oats and clover.
Jason. Never done it but you would have to make sure the spray doesn't kill your seed.
Glyphosate is a contact herbicide that will not hurt the seeds or remain active in soil. It only affects plants when it contacts living leaves. So, as long as your seed has not germinated yet when you spray, it should work.
I read about it then tested it. Works great! Just did it to another plot few days ago.
@@DeerAssociation and Jason. some spray does, some spray doesn't. READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING!!!
Where can I get that fencing?
how do you fertilize, lime, etc? i understand that soil conditions would improve with this method theoretically, but id imagine this would take years.
So step 1 = Mow
Step 2 = Seed
??? please advise
You can lime/fertilize in the same manner - spreading it on top of the ground prior to a rain.
When's the best time to spray Japanese grass?
Yesterday
It works It’s all about microbes and keeping the soil alive. The rest will fall in into place.
Right on!
What is a natural alternative to using glyphosate. I’d rather not use cancer causing agents
Broadcast the seed before you mow and then the seed is covered by the cuttings
I've been doing this on a old road I mow it seed I have taken straw and put over the seeds to help hold the monster
Quick question. How do you get soil amendments into the soil? For example, I currently have a half acre plot that I plan on planting this year and it requires 2500 lbs of lime. In addition I need to add moderate amounts of NPK to the location. Is it safe to assume that you would simply broadcast the amendments after mowing/spraying with rain in the forecast? Thank you.
That is exactly right. You can simply broadcast them into the plot before a rain, the same as you do the seed.
Ah should have watched to the end of the video. No worries this may just work in my situation. Good video and thanks for putting this together.
If you have the ground just like what I see there let the ring do the work 😉 🙌 👌
Great informative video. Thank You!
I heard a lot about soil building and I'll Farmers should act now we should do better conservation. But not much about deer
Is Deer gro plot start really a lime alternative? My USDA office says no. Deer GRO is calcium chloride, lime is calcium carbonate. True liquid lime, is made of calcium carbonate correct? Why are youtubers promoting a product that is not really benefiting the soil? Can you do a video explaining the difference between calcium chloride and calcium carbonate(lime). Ive heard calcium chloride is used on highways as a brine since it don't freeze, as well as in tires.. I'd like to use liquid lime, but feel I've been tricked by false marketing and people getting paid lots of $$ to promote a product that really is not beneficial to my soil and food plots.
Glyfosfate and others are getting really hard to purchase over the pond in Europe. Which makes no-till much harder.
@Joshua Soileau
I have tried to roll with my cultipacker and seed but the elytrigia repens keeps growing and is too competitive for other crops to take over.
Thank you for the tip tough. If you have other ideas - they are much appreciated.
@@no-diggarden
At a cost that is prohibitive if you want to cover several nice sized food plots :-)
also, cant plan / wait for rain if your property is 3hrs away...
What about burning the old organic material? Does that hurt anything or help anything?
Burning reduces the material to nutrients that can be absorbed into soil, but ideally you want to allow the soil to begin recovering its natural layers of organic material with larger particles on top. The heavy mulch also helps hold soil in place, conserve moisture, and has other benefits.
Disking works so dont knock it just because you have a new way!
No fertilizer. No lime??
WESTERN NY BIGFOOT Yes he says fertilizer and lime goes without question
Glyco what?
The main ingredient in Round Up is what he is talking about.
Looks like a good video , can't Hera a word your saying you need a Mike.
Requires RAIN! Of which never happens in north Texas lol.
Push mowers can fit in a truck of a car, trust me, I KNOW.
No spraying save the bees
So everything we've ever been taught about planting food plots has been a lie?
We have natural
Plows here in Central Tx......Feral Hogs!!!
2 oz. Per gallon? Seems way too much.
Spray everything with Roundup? No thanks
I'm going to try this for sure. Hope I didn't waste 2k on a tiller for my tractor. ha
lol, try both and see whats better i guess, im about to seed my brassica food plot this weekend I cant wait
@@oldben1800 good luck. I’m waiting another week...waiting for stuff to die.
@@karvtek just sprayed?
tilling is bad but spraying glyphosate is good? come on man...
The preponderance of the scientific evidence says that glyphosate is safe for you and for the environment *when used according to the label instructions and precautions*. If it didn't, we would not recommend using it. We believe in minimal use of herbicides, and we promote alternatives wherever we can, but sometimes they are necessary. Also, we did not say tilling is bad, only that no-till is better for the soil.
“The fence itself is a great hunting strategy “... smh
Now if we can just get glyphosate out of the picture..
It is not needed in every case. There are mechanical methods for weed control (including disking), and sometimes weed infestations are minor enough that you can hand-pull. Sometimes the weeds are even good deer food. But in some cases you will not be able to bring weeds under control (especially non-native, invasive species) without herbicides.
Great video until you talk about spraying roundup. Quit poisoning the evironment. If you get enough biomater built up on the surface, you should not need to keep spraying.
The preponderance of the scientific evidence suggests that glyphosate is safe when used according to label instructions. Not everyone needs to use herbicide on weeds to do this, but sometimes there are weed infestations that cannot be controlled with mechanical methods. In those instances, we support the use of appropriate herbicides according to the label.
please provide evidence that glyphosate is damaging to the environment. Also, you are incorrect, a bio-matter build up will increase fertility, thus increasing native germination. THUS requiring spray to kill off competing weeds......
@@quinnm.2314 There is evidence out there that shows the dangers of glysophate even after Monsanto has TRIED ferociously to cover it up. Watch some of the European videos where cows and pigs were born deformed after the parent animals were grazed on fields where it was sprayed. The issues cleared up after the animals were fed differently. I do agree that an increase in biomass increases the soil fertility IF the soil has a chance to build up the biological life back up to natural levels. Tillage, man made fertilizers, and chemicals that include glysophate kill off the soil biology. With increased fertility, the natural grasses and other "weeds" benefit also. Spraying may be needed ( I cringe) depending on the cover crops and management style to reduce the weed seed bank. For reference, look up any of the numerous videos on "biodynamics"
@@TheNCGardener glyphosate does not kill off "soil biology"
@@quinnm.2314 A quick search of "effect of glysophate on soil biology" will give plenty of evidence. Here is the first one I looked at.
ua-cam.com/video/fpJSdSXAlwg/v-deo.html
This is all fine unless you live in Northern, WI with no top soil and red clay that is like concrete!
We have heavy red-clay soils here at HQ in Georgia. The plot in this video is on former farmlands that were heavily eroded over decades, removing top soils and leaving red clay sublayers. It still works. You just have to build organic matter again over time by following the process.
Another video bragging about how great their system is while still using glyphosate. This is a fail.
You guys need to stop spraying the glyphosate/roundup. It kills the microbial life. Which is why your getting compaction. Read Gabe Browns book.
You are incorrect. Glyphosate is not soil active, and it certainly is not causing compaction. Compaction comes from repeated rounds of disking and heavy equipment on the field. Using this no-till method, we see soil fertility increase over time, reducing the amount of fertilizer inputs that are necessary. That wouldn't happen if microbial activity was declining.
@@DeerAssociation heres a better way to do what you're doing without herbicide. ua-cam.com/video/fje5eL1oePY/v-deo.html
If everyone was doing it, everyone would be doing it. Its nothing new, its been done for hundreds of years... ]
Glyphosphate isn't healthy for the soil !!!
I don’t want to eat deer that’s eating glyphosate