How to Register and Screen Print CMYK 4 Color Process on White T Shirts
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- Опубліковано 30 січ 2025
- Hey gang! Check out our video on how to s register and screen print CMYK 4 color process on white t shirts.
Notes: Be sure to flash your black print you lay down first before registering your screens. We used a 22.5º angle in AccuRip for all screen.
Recommended Products in this video:
Ulano TZ Emulsion for Waterbased Printing - amzn.to/2nyXxhH
305 Mesh 20" x 24" Screens - amzn.to/2oCHcsP
14” Squeegee - amzn.to/2BMO5fW
16” Scoop Coater - amzn.to/2FEHvdH
Epson 1430 for Film Positives - amzn.to/2DVyVL4
13” x 19” Waterproof Film - amzn.to/2ExBEYa
Adobe Software Discounted (Illustrator, Photoshop) - bit.ly/Adobe-Ph...
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Thank you! This was the only video I have been able to find that gives me a breakdown of how to do the registration mark test!!
Well I'm glad you found our channel! Thanks so much and let us know if you have any questions.
I took a class for screen printing in high-school years ago and loved it and recently got a smaller 4 color unit for myself at home and this video has been most helpful, thank you. I was wondering how how the yellow doesn’t get on the bottom of the screen that follows it which I would think might cause it to transfer or smudge much the yellow with the magenta it whatever color followed it ? Sorry if this is a stupid question I just wasn’t really sure if that would happen or is possible to happen. Just trying to watch as many tutorials as I can & hopefully get reacquainted with the process before I start and end up ruining a bunch of shirts (LOL). Thanks for all your help!!
Hi Angie and thank you! You actually want the ink to imprint on the bottom of the next screen, and so on and so fourth. It's a process called wet on wet printing in which it saves time not having to flash between colors, which can cause a lot of issues such as the print wanting to stick to the screen if not properly flashed, or the amount of ink layers being too thick. I hope this helps. :)
Thanks so much for taking time to share your know-how!
Any time!
Impressive job and good explaining, thanks for sharing such experience, keep it up dude.
Thank you! Definitely will.
Hi , Cool video , Did you ever try cmyk on white polyester tshirts ? Is it feasible ?
You should't have any issues with polyester. If you need to, add a low cure additive.
I learned something today.
What a brilliant video.
Awesome! Glad to help!
Quick question. When you print registration marks on the stencil and stuff does that not mean you will end up printing the registration marks on the shirt as well? Obviously I know you don't but where In the process and how do you end up removing/avoiding printing the registration marks on the shirts
He covered the marks with tape on the underside of the screen
Love your videos man really helpful when starting out
Glad to hear it!
What do you use to clean your pallets or do you tape your pallets?
I use pallet tap. Check out my video on using water based pallet adhesive.
ua-cam.com/video/8DADblGbuTs/v-deo.html
so when we are painting an image after breaking it down but the colors do not contain yellow or black etc, but more like pruple pink and blue. (some other colors other than cmyk) do we still print the lightest color first?
General rule of thumb is smallest image / lightest first, but it depends on how you separate things out. Dark may need to go first. Takes some experimenting.
another question is when doing your angles and frequency how do you know what dot size you are looking for?@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473
What did you use to block the registration marks? Electrical tape?
3m #2020 paper masking tape. amzn.to/2Tk8xNW
good day..may i ask if what screen mesh you used on this video...im a beginner..tnx
Good day! I used 305 mesh screens and the art is 55 lpi in this video.
love your videos, but would have been interesting how you line up and burn the screens etc... the whole procedure. keep on rocking
Thanks! The last video I just made, was exactly that. Here it is. ua-cam.com/video/iun9BpXTlpk/v-deo.html
how much did you spend on that printing machine and frames etc. for beginners
I bought mine used for $2100. Cam with frames or screens and I bought ink as I needed it per job. The flash was $600 at the time, new, and I used that to cure my shirts.
Hello, I usually have trouble maintaining my details dot, some wash off but some dont, and what happens when you use 300 mesh count, is that suitable for CMYK printing? Because everywhere I go I see people saying 305 but I can only get 300 count mesh, pls advise me, and what's the uniqueness of the emulsion from other emulsion?
305 is best for CMYK printing. It'll hold those 55 lpi dots and you don't have a ton of ink going down. Try using a dual cure diazo emulsion like Ulano TZ in our links / description. When I use a photopolymer emulsion, like Ulano Orange, QTX, or QX-5, the 5%-10% dots tend to not hold as well.
Very nice Mike.
Jey Mikey i will be screen printing shirts but when you are doin 4 color screening are all four screens made the same
They would be exposed in the same manner, but the art will be different. Thanks!
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 ok thanks Mikey
Y m c k? Wet on wet? So nice. This can be done without curing a heat gun before proceeding to anothwr color?
Exactly! Wet on wet, then cure.
Thank you so much 😇. I'll definitely try this
@@DailyBusiness101 Awesome!
i want to know how that mechanism work and does't move even a micron while you rotate the screens to switch colors to squeeze
Each head has registration key and bearings. That makes sure they hit the same spot every print.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 thank you sir
You're welcome @@designwithgeet7895
another great video.
Thank you!
Hello Mikey. What are the inks used in this process?
They are CMYK plastisol process inks. I've been using union ink.
What's the process for doing double print? Like printing on a clothe, then doing it again to make it brighter and stronger? And also so it won't wash off
I'll do a video soon to show you. You basically print, flash, and then print again. Generally you do this with white ink, and or opaque light colors (orange, yellow, red, green, etc.) on dark garments.
Mikey Designs & Silk Screen oh wow thanks, I will be anticipating
Certainly! I will be working on fulfilling video requests soon.
When using plastisol 4 color process ink which mesh would you recommend for detail designs and emulsion
I would use 305 and a diazo emulsion like TZ by Ulano amzn.to/2JPmQY9
amzn.to/2Svr6jA
Mikey Designs & Silk Screen
Thanks for the time and answer !
Hey Matt, good stuff as always! I just recently upgraded my exposure unit.....going from the DIY halogen light to the Ranar XPO 2426, which I think is a model under what you got. I also changed emulsions as well, going from Ulano Orange to the Saati PC Blue. I know you said what emulsion you used in this video is different, but wanted to see if you have used the Saati PC Blue in the past. I just do a one and one coat on my screens that are 156 mesh. Just curious as to what you exposure times are? I'm use to with my halogen light flashing for 6 minutes 30 seconds LOL. I tried exposing a film last night with the PC Blue for 45 seconds....seemed to be ok, but thanks for your time, SKD
Nice up grade! We use Ulano orange as well, but for our spot color work. It generally took about 1:10 per screen, but we like to over expose ours a little to avoid the unexposed emulsion from running into the open art. 45 seconds works well too, but like I mentioned, we like to over expose a little, which isn't a problem if your film is dense. I haven't used Saati just yet, but I have a screen printing friend that does, and he likes it. I'm going to give Saati a try soon, because I've heard many have switched over from Ulano. I just haven't pulled the trigger yet because we get a great deal on Ulano from GSG. That and they accidentally sent us a 5 gallon bucket of Ulano Orange, instead of a gallon... Their mistake and they said they wouldn't charge us. We go through a gallon about every month or so... So it'll be a 3-4 months before we completely go through that 5 gallon bucket.
Thanks for the reply! Yeah I gotta keep messing with it....I thought my films were good enough. I'm using an epson 1430 but I haven't done anything to the printer. Thanks again for your time, SKD
Any time. Just hold you film up to sun light, if you can clearly see through, it's not dense enough. It should have a reddish tent to it as well. They should be like looking through welders glasses, if you have ever looked through a pair.
Mikey Designs & Silk Screen thanks again!! Tried for 40 seconds and was pretty good!!
That's awesome to hear! We love ours. Same setup really, but can do 23x31 auto screens. I was going to get that one, but wanted to have a unit that could expose the larger frames just incase we get an auto down the road.
Is it possible for me to resize the template for different screen sizes for my students without messing it up. I've tried and have not been successful
I completely missed this and normally reply to all. You can size it down. Just double click on the scale tool and deselect the scale strokes and effects option. I hope you got it figured out!
Thanks for your information 👍
Is it the same plastisol used for solid print you used for cmyk prints?
It's plastisol, but specific colors... like white, red, blue, green, etc. CMYK is a special process set of ink.
Hi Mikey! Im Ace from Philippines. I really admire your skills on screen printing, and it really encourage me to practice. But i got trouble on "wet on wet" process. Whenever I put the next color, the previous color stick under the screen :(
What should I do? I use plastisol inks
Thank you! When printing wet on wet, the color will build on the bottom. When you say stick, are you flashing a color before? Is the screen sticking to the print?
The ink stick to the screen, thats what i mean. is there any trick or strategy to avoid that?
i didnt flash also. Some of ink stick to screen because the previous color is wet. Sorry for my english :(
It's supposed to build up on the back of the screen with wet on wet printing. As long your print comes out crisp, you are good to go. If not, then used a more opaque ink or higher mesh. I hope this helps.
Did u do a 22.5 degree (angle)
Ah, forgot to mention that, but yes. I used AccuRip with a 22.5º angle. I keep that angle locked in and it works great for everything. I hope this helps.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 sir, what ink did you used?. water based ink, plastisol?.. also, spray for the pad?.. thanks advance.
Why is it okay to put another color while its wet. Wouldnt it smudge?
It won't smudge, because the press holds registration, and with CMYK on white shirts you want to print the ink wet on wet so they mix. :)
Question again, why didn't you use glue to hold the shirt in place?
aina opeyemi spray tack was used which holds the shirt down. I’ve recently switched to a spreadable pallet adhesive called pallet pro.
Very Nice Information Thanks
Thank you!!
How did you make your inks so thin, mine are thicker
Stir them up well, or could just be the brand. We're using Union's ink.
Plastisol thinners and so-called "soft hand" additives will help you.
How do I know where to place the design on each screen so that everything lines up. I know that's what the registration marks are for but they only works if they are in same location on each screen... correct?
I just center the film on the screens, expose them, then center the screen on the pallet. I have centerlines on the pallets. I print the darks color on light shirts first, or lightest color on dark shirts. Then register then up.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 on thanks...I sent you an email earlier this morning about the registration template. Did you receive it?
Would you send me a version that will open with CS6
Just checked my email! I have been out of the office today, but I just emailed it over. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Certainly! Doing that now!
Hi Matt
How about a multi colour discharge print tutorial
Hi Mark. Certainly. We'll do a video. Would you like to see a discharge base with plastisol on top of the discharge base? Multi color discharge with no overlaying colors? Let me know and we'll get to it.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 - it possible, but this requires a variety of technical conditions in the printing process, such as humidity and constant humidification of the working environment and meshes, the temperature in the production. Since you work with wet-on-wet method with plastisol ink, printing with water ink will be familiar to you. But most importantly - the microclimate and constant moisture. It costs some money.
@@smetankorzevic6647 I agree. If you live in a dry place, it will make it more difficult during long runs. How about using a humidifier in your shop?
what software you are using for color separation
I use Photoshop, Illustrator and AccuRip - clk.tradedoubler.com/click?p(264355)a(3014382)g(22804962)url(www.adobe.com/creativecloud/plans.html?promoid=695P7SPW&mv=other)
Is it okay to print out the design on A4 paper instead of film ..
You're need some sort of transparency if you want to create screens, but yes. You can print it on paper... Depends on what you're after.
Pls show us the process before the printing, from the computer, to the coating and shooting, plssssss
I could do that. I'm working on a job today where I could show the process.
Mikey Designs & Silk Screen thank you
Go over to our video, here, on how to coat the screens for now until I make the video today. ua-cam.com/video/zr4zFaoLPls/v-deo.html
Mikey Designs & Silk Screen OK, thanks a lot, I realize CMYK is a more delicate process
Any time. I'll have the video ready later tonight or early in the morning.
Came here to like the vid. :)
Thanks! I appreciate it. :)
What type of ink and base you using and
I'm currently using Wilflex process inks.
Mike, hi ! Please tell - what kind of dot shape in rip-process do you use?
I like to use round.
thank you!!
Welcome!
no need to dry in every color?
How is he aligning each color???
You'll need to print registration marks on each of your film and them line up the registration marks.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 Thanks for the reply man! Where are the registration marks? When you're doing C, M, Y, K, it seems that you're just randomly lowering the screen to the shirt but they end up dead-on accurate.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 Once I print the marks on each screen, with what do I line them up? With each other?
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 And also, do I need a triple durometer squeegee?
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 And also could you give us a link where to buy the CMYK inks themselves? Thanks a lot!
Sir how to set cmyk for prinnter
Great can you teach me more
Wilson Steven Miller Ronald Moore David
hi nice to meet you. i m japanese. i study silkscreen. i want friend. and contct.
Hi! Great to hear from you. You're more than welcome to contact us any time. We have our contact info in the description.
try cyan magenta yelow black
Done it. The reason for printing lightest to darkest is, with CMYK, you print wet on wet. If you print in CMYK order, your yellow ink will start to turn either pink or a green color because the screen will start to pickup the ink and mix in your yellow. I hope this helps.
good point
It only makes since to do it in that order. Tried it numerous times, and it can really wreak havoc on your yellow. lol