You can skip a bit of the scariness with cross-threading your spark plugs by applying gentle pressure to the back of the plug while turning counter-clockwise until you feel/hear a small click. That will be the end of the threads of the plug passing the end of the threads of the spark plug, at which point, you can turn the plug clockwise for installation, without the fear of cross-threading. Use a hose or don't, but consider this method for any threads you're especially worried about cross-threading.
Is it possible to cross thread using hand tightening method with an extension and two fingers...because I can't hear a click or feel if I'm catching threads?
Nice to see the Sprite in a nice warm garage. Changing plugs on a newer car, having to remove the individual coils and then using a deep socket to access the plugs makes me appreciate my old MG as everything is assessable.
I have a four cylinder motorcycle and it can be a little tough getting the middle two spark plugs in and out. it's a weird angle and there's not a lot of room for the wrench. I recently learned the rubber tube method for putting them back in without worrying about stripping the threads. Works great.
Changing plugs 1 at a time eliminates numbering & getting debris in all the open cylinders. Even if the plug is pretreated use anti-seize compound which also acts as a lubricant to prevent cross threading. Pull, clean, inspect & regap the plug & the vast majority of the time it will not need to be replaced.
A couple of things that came with experience or just bad luck. First off you might want to not only check the manual but in some rare cases, unless your me then it is every third car I own, there is a factory service bulletin that supersedes the manual and gives a different plug or gap, or both. Another thing you learn over time is that the brand of spark plug recommended is not a suggestion, generally that brand of plug will give the best longevity in your engine. Finally there are a whole lot of spark plug gap tools out there, I was a big fan of the wire type gappers for years and I still keep one around but my all time favorite is the Bluepoint plyer type gapper. A lot of people do not like this tool because it is really easy to ruin a spark plug with it, I have had mine for 20 years and I have been using this type of tool for over 35 years and I have never personally ruined a new spark plug in it. I will say that I have seen people ruin plugs in the plyer type tool, and I have myself used the tool to see how much force it took to ruin an old plug. I am confident that if you ruin a spark plug in a plyer type tool you would have ruined it no mater what tool you were using.
Also when installing new spark plug give them back turn and feel the step up from threads then start to screw. This will help if you don't have hose with you
In 1972 I had an 1800 cc engine with twin SU carbs and those Champion plugs would not last more than 6000 miles. And brother I did learn to service and tune those SU carbs such that there was no soot on my plugs and it started all winter long. Given that background, I'd have fixed that rich SU carb before I changed the plugs, but otherwise nice job!
Round wire gage should be on used plugs where the center electrode may not be flat and therefore the spark plug gap would not be parallel. Feeler gage is only accurate if the electrode surfaces are flat (as in a new spark plug).
Direction of side electrode IS IMPORTANT!!! You can gain few HP just placing electode in optimal direction in combustion chamber. Read engine perfomance books.
get spark plug sockets with magnets makes like 100 times easier especially on modern engines where the plugs are deep in the heads , the rubber ones can be problematic , secondly use a small ammount of anti cease on installation , the tridium coating does not always guarantee easy removal
You don't mention where exactly you get the proper gap for the specific vehicle that is being worked on. One way is to remove a plug already installed and check it? Or not? Also, you mentioned "spark plug pliers" but did not show them.
Original plugs worked excellent on the car,,, when it came for tune up, the replacement plugs from the dealer made a horrible noice on the radio. I could hear the engine RPM’s all the time.. The plugs are the same brand, same numbers ,,,,,,what causes the engine noise on the speakers ?.???
On some cars, spark plugs need to have a resistor in built to them to prevent interference. Are you 100% sure it's all the same numbers AND letters as the original? The letters will tell you if it's a resistor type or not
My honda lawn mower plug is harder to change than that Austin Healy . Anyone who has not changed plugs in a modern car are in for a shock , try this on a transverse V-6 or try a ford triton V-8 . This video will mislead people into trying the job and getting in way over there heads and possibly damaging there engine .
This is why transverse V6 engines use iridium plugs that last 120,000 miles. I have an 05 Scion 4 that I can do a plug swap on in less than a half hour tools put away and everything.
Now Kyle and Davin are great hosts for this kind of stuff. Still miss Tiffany and Dana... And Tom Cotton are all great. The rest are not worth a plug nickel.
should trash 2 of your 3 gap gauges, guess which ones. if you learn how to set the gap with a real feeler gauge, you wont need a table, block of wood ect,
Put Champs in an engine they belong in and they work fine, put anything else in there and it wont last. That goes for all brands of plugs, everything has a home.
That hose trick is ingenious! Thanks for sharing Kyle.
You can skip a bit of the scariness with cross-threading your spark plugs by applying gentle pressure to the back of the plug while turning counter-clockwise until you feel/hear a small click. That will be the end of the threads of the plug passing the end of the threads of the spark plug, at which point, you can turn the plug clockwise for installation, without the fear of cross-threading. Use a hose or don't, but consider this method for any threads you're especially worried about cross-threading.
Good tip. Thanks!
This is my method too. People think I’m dumb sometimes; they’re like, “you know it’s righty tighty, don’t ya?” And I’m like, yesss…
Is it possible to cross thread using hand tightening method with an extension and two fingers...because I can't hear a click or feel if I'm catching threads?
@@DavidTMSN In that case get a youngster who still has feeling in the tips of their fingers to handle starting the threads for you.
They don't tell you when you're younger how terrible it is to grow older...or maybe they did and I just don't remember.
Nice to see the Sprite in a nice warm garage. Changing plugs on a newer car, having to remove the individual coils and then using a deep socket to access the plugs makes me appreciate my old MG as everything is assessable.
Instead of labeling the leads you could just change one plug at the time and putting the lead back on right after.
Or just mark #1 on the distributor cap
"changing spark plugs is easy!"
me, a subaru owner: all i ever knew is pain...
I have a four cylinder motorcycle and it can be a little tough getting the middle two spark plugs in and out. it's a weird angle and there's not a lot of room for the wrench. I recently learned the rubber tube method for putting them back in without worrying about stripping the threads. Works great.
Hahahaha! Haven't seen an engine with plugs that easy to access since, well, cars like that were made.
Wow that hose trick never seen it before good idea
Changing plugs 1 at a time eliminates numbering & getting debris in all the open cylinders. Even if the plug is pretreated use anti-seize compound which also acts as a lubricant to prevent cross threading. Pull, clean, inspect & regap the plug & the vast majority of the time it will not need to be replaced.
Also, use the spark plug socket to reinsert the plug to eliminate the rubber hose.
I like this guy's way of explanation 👍
A couple of things that came with experience or just bad luck. First off you might want to not only check the manual but in some rare cases, unless your me then it is every third car I own, there is a factory service bulletin that supersedes the manual and gives a different plug or gap, or both. Another thing you learn over time is that the brand of spark plug recommended is not a suggestion, generally that brand of plug will give the best longevity in your engine.
Finally there are a whole lot of spark plug gap tools out there, I was a big fan of the wire type gappers for years and I still keep one around but my all time favorite is the Bluepoint plyer type gapper. A lot of people do not like this tool because it is really easy to ruin a spark plug with it, I have had mine for 20 years and I have been using this type of tool for over 35 years and I have never personally ruined a new spark plug in it. I will say that I have seen people ruin plugs in the plyer type tool, and I have myself used the tool to see how much force it took to ruin an old plug. I am confident that if you ruin a spark plug in a plyer type tool you would have ruined it no mater what tool you were using.
I was taught not to use points feeler gauges to check spark plug gap. I use a circular gauge with different size wire around the outside edge.
Also when installing new spark plug give them back turn and feel the step up from threads then start to screw. This will help if you don't have hose with you
what is "back turn"?
@@kennorway9690 Turn it counterclockwise.
In 1972 I had an 1800 cc engine with twin SU carbs and those Champion plugs would not last more than 6000 miles. And brother I did learn to service and tune those SU carbs such that there was no soot on my plugs and it started all winter long. Given that background, I'd have fixed that rich SU carb before I changed the plugs, but otherwise nice job!
Thanks sir I learned lot information of u
They make spark plug boot pliers too. Antsieze on threads.
On my 91 Ford f350 7.5 the gap is .044 how do i gap it? Do I use the right or left side edge of the spark plug or the middle?
Why buy an extra one? You could practice on the old plugs.
Never did the gapping. Is the standard gap measurement indicated on the service manual/book of every brand new car?
Most auto part stores should be able to look it up in their system for you, you could find it online or in a haynes manual
@@YeetxBoi tnx👍
I used the same plug that’s was in the truck when I got it, ran fine before and didn’t wanna take any type of gamble.
There is zero gamble if you use the manufacturer specification. Using whatever is in the truck already is a gamble without research.
@@YeetxBoi I searched it, they’re comparable and engine likes the. Just didn’t wanna switch brands after 23yrs
@@Joe-nq6hy my 318 magnum is finicky with certain plugs. Some engines have a spark knock, prob poorly made, or gas quality is different.
I really like DIY videos, greetings from Chile South America. Thanks
Old school gapping was done with a round wire gage.
Shops back in the day used feeler gauges, mostly as they are a batter tool since you can use them for valve tune ups as well and a few other things.
Round wire gage should be on used plugs where the center electrode may not be flat and therefore the spark plug gap would not be parallel. Feeler gage is only accurate if the electrode surfaces are flat (as in a new spark plug).
Instead of a scrap piece of tubing I like to use an old spark boot (straight, not 90-deg obviously) with the wire and connector removed.
Direction of side electrode IS IMPORTANT!!! You can gain few HP just placing electode in optimal direction in combustion chamber. Read engine perfomance books.
amen , ive been "keying in" my spark plugs for years , and yes it works , especially in aussie falcons it stops the intermitent engine kicks
Nice tip. If you don't mind, can explain what the optimal direction would be tho, for those of us not aware, please?
I was always taught that you don't adjust the gap on platinum or iridiums because you could damage them.
I have the first one and the third one.
get spark plug sockets with magnets makes like 100 times easier especially on modern engines where the plugs are deep in the heads , the rubber ones can be problematic , secondly use a small ammount of anti cease on installation , the tridium coating does not always guarantee easy removal
I just want 1 of those little holder thingys so I dont have to keep moving back n forth when changing plugs
Watches video and realises I'm watching myself LOL
Rubber hose with the ID slightly tighter than the end of the plug
Melting the end of straw to make it narrow works if you can't find a hose.
How long does Copper spark plugs work?
15k
this guy kinda reminds of a guy who has all the gear and no idea
Ecoboost engines need plugs or a regap of plugs every 10k miles to maintain a decent idle.
In my 1.4 TSI CZDA i can change them at 60,000km (VW under warranty changes them at 30,000km).
Why are you labeling the spark plug wires? Just do one plug at a time and you won’t mix up the wires.
A little dab of loctite goes a long way when installing new plugs.............. just kidding kids; don't try this at home!
Some men just want to watch the world burn, lol.
Thanks Satan! 👍🏼
@@alvaroavendano4121 Hah. :)
You don't mention where exactly you get the proper gap for the specific vehicle that is being worked on. One way is to remove a plug already installed and check it? Or not? Also, you mentioned "spark plug pliers" but did not show them.
Original plugs worked excellent on the car,,, when it came for tune up, the replacement plugs from the dealer made a horrible noice on the radio. I could hear the engine RPM’s all the time..
The plugs are the same brand, same numbers ,,,,,,what causes the engine noise on the speakers ?.???
On some cars, spark plugs need to have a resistor in built to them to prevent interference. Are you 100% sure it's all the same numbers AND letters as the original? The letters will tell you if it's a resistor type or not
@@shantiaoudai1114 ,,,, resistor inside the plugs,,,,, uhmmmmmm,,,, I’ll look into it.... thank you for the advice..
My honda lawn mower plug is harder to change than that Austin Healy . Anyone who has not changed plugs in a modern car are in for a shock , try this on a transverse V-6 or try a ford triton V-8 . This video will mislead people into trying the job and getting in way over there heads and possibly damaging there engine .
This is why transverse V6 engines use iridium plugs that last 120,000 miles. I have an 05 Scion 4 that I can do a plug swap on in less than a half hour tools put away and everything.
I wouldn't trust champion plugs in my lawn mower.
Tip of the day. Take that rubber out and throw it deep into the forest
I didn't catch what you mean, could you please explain?
I got scared seeing him torque the plugs with that big 3/8" torque wrench lol
Now Kyle and Davin are great hosts for this kind of stuff. Still miss Tiffany and Dana... And Tom Cotton are all great. The rest are not worth a plug nickel.
Wtf where the original Mike roe looking guy?????
Can you really call it an engine build, as in the start of the video, if the owner needs teaching in sparkplugs 🤔
Everyone has to start somewhere. Don‘t be a dck.
Na not opinion re champion vs NGK . Hard cold facts based on years of hard cold experience. Bin those crap commodity champion plugs.
should trash 2 of your 3 gap gauges, guess which ones. if you learn how to set the gap with a real feeler gauge, you wont need a table, block of wood ect,
NGK = No Good Kind. Japanese plugs in an English car 👎.
Better than garbage champions
@@Whopoopedinmypants ?
Put Champs in an engine they belong in and they work fine, put anything else in there and it wont last. That goes for all brands of plugs, everything has a home.
Old British cars will run on anything, I ran NGK in my B. Ran just fine, plugs have came a long way for what they use to be.
@@jamesdean1598 it's not a matter of working, it's a matter of working for a reasonabl length of time. The wrong plugs just don't do that.