GM 14 Bolt Disc Brake Conversion Step by Step
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Strap yourselves in tight, get caffeinated and let out your rage beforehand because this is gonna be long-winded. But if you're still conscious by the end, you'll have quite possibly learned something.
Did you swap porportioning valve to a disc/ disc ?
@papalio01 I didn't, it still has the factory proportioning valve, but everything seems to work properly. I can't even remember how old this video is now, but I've put a ton of miles on the truck since I did the swap and it's still working great!
Good video. I just bought a used 3/4 rear and I didn’t wanna blow all the money on new drums and hardware for same price I can get a ful disc brake conversion kit.
Yeah it's cheaper and easier to gi with discs if everything is needing replaced anyway. The brakes on my truck are phenomenal now.
The one thing i wanted to see was how to torque the hub nut and...... nothin
Welp, that's because I didn't torque on it lol. I don't even have one those stupid sockets to fit it, I've always knocked them on tight with a punch then backed them off a little bit, then knocked the lock nut on tight with a punch. It has never burnt one of the bearings up so far on any of the trucks I've done it to.
@@CrazyWoody1989 Yikes!
First get the proper size hub socket. On this typical setup you would take the first nut and bring it down tight to seat the bearings. Then back it off until there is just a slight bit of drag on the bearing. Put the lock washer on tighten down the jam nut and bend the washer to hold the jam nut.
A shade tree mechanic with an actual shade tree🙂. I'm envious. I have an all original low mileage '80 Chevy K20 that I'm about to do this conversion on but I live in Texas where we have to have a working emergency brake. I understand you can use calipers for a '76-'79 El Dorado that has have the emergency brake. Haven't found any yet. SeaFoam DEEP CREEP is the best penetrating oil for rusty parts!
Rockuato had the cadillac calipers available last time I looked for them but they were some insane price. Seems like there's an alternative e-brake caliper but I can't remember what it is.
It looks like the main blade of your rear leaf spring is broken. Is it the main blade? If it's the main blade then it's a serious problem. The main blade is what attaches the whole leaf-spring assembly to the frame! The rear clamp is now the only thing holding the leaf-spring to the frame and it's not designed to do that. That's very dangerous.
Yes! It was broken lol. I mentioned it maybe in this video? Might have been a different one I can't remember, but sometime after this video was shot I replaced it.
@@CrazyWoody1989Yes, you mentioned it in your video. I'm glad you got it fixed. Thanks for making the video. I really enjoyed it and yes, I watched it from beginning to end. Great content!
Did you have to swap the proportion valve to a disc/ disc?
I didn't and haven't had any issues, but of course it's never a bad idea.
Ok thank you
Do you do any towing with the truck? Does it feel like you've lost some braking capacity in the rear? I am interested to make it easier to maintain and maybe lose a little weight. It seems like those calipers would not do as good as job as the massive drums that come on the 14b when stopping heavy loads.
I did the swap on my 2WD Blazer that I am upgrading the front brakes on also. She has stiffer springs all the way around and has no problems pulling 8k lbs with the 5.3L LS and 4L85E with the 14b FF. But I want to make sure I'm not losing braking power in the rear when switching out the huge rear drums for discs/calipers
My car trailer almost may as well be an extension of the truck lol, I tow with it more than not; and it stops awesome. The pedal feel is great and even though there's less contact surface than with the drums I feel like they're much more efficient. Plus there's not the rotating mass of those ridiculously heavy drums anymore. If I were towing a super heavy trailer I might be able to tell a difference but with what I use it for it works perfectly.
@@CrazyWoody1989 🤟Thx for the quick reply. What kind of vehicles have you towed on the trailer? Is it a single car, tandem axle or single? Or have you by chance had it weighed when fully loaded?
Max I should be doing would be about 8k lbs even though my suspension and powertrain can handle more I don't really have the wheelbase to be going much over that I think.
@Hsan Werdna it's a fairly heavy tandem axle car trailer; I'm not sure what the trailer itself weighs but if i had to guess it's probably 1700 lbs or so. I've hauled several square bodies on it, a fullsize 4wd dodge truck (70s model) and I've hauled my Gambler 500 van all over the country with it. The van is a 95 chevy G10 short wheel base and it's always loaded down with tools, spares and camping gear. I'm not sure what it weighs but it's pretty heavy.
Hi was that a posi diff on that truck ?
This one isn't, it's open with 4.10 gears.
Do you have a parts list? What calipers jb6 or jb7 and what year truck
Typically JB6 is used because it is less powerful and you dont want to have stronger brakes on the rear than the front.
For a parts list, they also happen to be suppliers, look at:
lugnut4x4.com/product-category/rear/
or
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1877.html
You could probably go JB7 if using a brake proportioning valve, that way you can have the bias up on the front when unloaded but send more to the back when towing/according to load. This is what I've been thinking about anyhow.
My 944 Turbo has the same Brembo 4 pot calipers from the factory at all 4 corners but are proportioned of course to perfection by design.
How's the breaking on the truck now ?
By far the best it has ever been, it has much better pedal feel too
Why would you put calipers in front or back, pros and cons ?
Mostly for the simplicity of maintenance and repair. Usually they have much more efficient stopping power without near as many moving parts and no need for adjustment.
I think it more relates to the position of the bleed screw to make it easy removing air from the system, but I'm no brake expert. At least that's what I did with my 9.5" 14 bolt semi-float disc conversion. The calipers ended up on the rear (diff. cover side) of the axle.
@@Vladshock As long as the bleeder is pointed upward and accessible of course, then it's all good. When I did the swap on one of my other trucks years ago the calipers were facing the back and they worked just fine but just something about the way it looked always irked me lol
@Joseph Clark It's mostly just a preference thing, some of the brackets out there only allow them to go one way, but since the ones I ended up with allow you to clock them however, I just decided to point them to the front. I will say it did make it easier to cleanly route my hoses, but that was just a coincidence lol
can this work with dual rear wheels?
As far as I know this particular setup won't work with dual wheels, but they do make caliper brackets specifically for dual wheel rearends.
@@CrazyWoody1989 Thank you for the reply, i really wanna get rid of the drum setup nobody i seen yet has drw
@bankruptracing9063 This is the second 14 bolt I've done it on, the first set of brackets I ordered were from Ruff Stuff, and I think the set in this video are from Jeep Hub and I'm pretty sure they both made me specify weather it was for single or dual wheels
What size tires are those? Any trimming?
The tires are 315/85r16s, about 37 inches tall. Didn't have to trim any but I also only had them on the back. I've since downsized to a set of 285's lol
@@CrazyWoody1989 I'm trying to work out a emergency brake for mine, mine is a d30 or k30 cucv. I don't have any of the old parts
@@mblake0420 I basically omitted the e brake when I did the discs, of course the stuff it had on it originally didn't work anyway lol. If you do a disc swap you can run new HD rear calipers that have the e brake incorporated into the caliper or run 70s rear cadillac calipers to get the same thing. I've never been very impressed by the caddy calipers though.