I’ve got a 1947 that I’m converting from 6to 12 volt right now then I’m gonna put that popper to work reviving an old coastal field that has gone to the weeds !! Love that sound when they are running right! Good luck with yours . She’ll probably run better if you would put on some shoes or boots though 😂
OLD JOHN DEERE ARE ARE A WORK OF ART PUT SOME GOOD FUEL AND UNFREEZE YOUR THROTTLE THAT ONE GOOD BE FOR THE SHUTTLE IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR IMM WORKING ON A 1949 A WITH MAJOR STARTER TROUBLES BUT YOU ARE DOING GOOD IVAN FROM ILLINOIS.
Thanks for giving this old John Deere some love. Once it fired up I would have tried more throttle (likely forward) to clear out the carbon. The lower lever is possibly spark advance, you could loosen that one up and that may help it run better. Working with open toed sandals is scaring me - that crescent wrench or other spanners could fall with the tractor vibrating - right onto your big toe... Most shops require steel toe or at least closed toe for a reason. Also better to pour out stale gas into a barrel for incineration with other waste wood and paper than to pour on the ground. It can migrate to the water table and create a long term contamination.
You have a lot to learn! Don’t be afraid to give the engine some RPM’s by pushing the throttle lever forward. Especially when starting. Give the engine some air. The crankcase oil was contaminated with gasoline because of carburetor issues. Always shut off the gas when you’re done playing with it. Your crankcase oil will not get contaminated with gas nearly as easy. There should be some compression release pet cocks on the bottom of the block. Some have pipe plugs which can be removed and regular pet cocks can be installed. The two wires behind the carburetor are more likely the wires for your lights and charging. Don’t stay on the starter like that. Read your operators manual
Hi! Love this Hi-Def Tractor Video! U took me back to when I was 11 and nose-ing around my Grandpa's JD A in 1968! Nowadays I'm a City Slicker Artist in L.A. but boy u sho' had me rolling n laughter as I listened to your Video while working in the shop. At 3:03 when I saw those fresh looking points, I immediately knew someone had been workin' a field or two with that ol' JD! Took me awhile to find frames 12:51 where u started coughin' & hackin'! Was busy workin' & thought u accidently sipped *Gasoline* thinkin' it was a *Monster* Energy Drink. Folks, around frames 15:00 he finally put some *gloves* on. At 23:10 I heard the sound of beautiful *Johnny* *Pop* *Music* ! At 23:45 My Grandpa would have hollered out 2 You, _"Good God Amighty Boy she sound fine & ready for a day's work!"_ You've got some really fine pete moss covered *Vintage* *American* *Heritage* right there. Glad to see you have the _patience of a mule_ to get that JD A goin' strong again.
Needle valve on your carb is sticking, that's why your getting gas in your oil. It's bleeding in there while the tractor isn't running. Shut your gas off at the bowl when you shut the tractor off.
Very late to the party here, but my gut is telling me the issue is more fuel related. Sounded like it was running very rich & possibly the fuel was crappy as well although that's not so much an issue as modern stuff. Gotta go through your videos now and see what became of the project, it's good to see some younger folk getting on and working on these old machines without being constantly under the wing of an eager parent/grandparent. Not that that's a bad thing at all, but it's good to see people getting out there on their own volition and learning things themself.
OK after skipping through to the "problem solved" video, seems it was the timing being off. The thought did cross my mind to begin with but I made the mistake of assuming because you didn't touch it it'd be OK still (first port of call with running issues is check work we've just done that might cause it, 9/10 it's something there.) Really cool to see it fixed.
So far on the oil filter I have found Deere cheapest believe it or not $ 7.00 at Deere close to $15.00 elsewhere even on ebay Also try some B12 chem tool in the fuel of anything that has been sitting it helps clean the gum and varnish out of fuel system
This A kind of reminds me of the 51 JD MT I bought in Nov. 2019. Just minor stuff compared to what kind of money that can be spent. Governor adjustment, change all fluids and filters, new gas and pow it started and I have never pulled the choke on this tractor. It sat for at least 20 years. I love it and use it on my hobby farm. Another interesting thing is I bought it at the site of a J D dealer where it could have been bought new in 1951 just 2 miles from my home from the son of W.D. VanScoter the dealer. All of the buildings are still there and maintained. I remember going there when I was a little boy with my dad. Preserving history one tractor or implement at a time.
I would put some fresh 92 octane gas in it and run it awhile. The carb could clean itself somewhat but the fresh fuel would defiantly make a difference.
Gutentight....ok. Depending on how long it set you may need to take the carb apart and clean out the jets. I use torch picks. I really don’t sound too bad.
Gutentight...I have one I have a Farmall M I have done a complete engine rebuild. It set for 30 yrs locked up and the carb was a mess. You just gotta hang in there on them and you get stumped there are always guys out there to get help from!
Sounds like you need to adjust the carb and those type of carbs are not easy to tune. Best thing you could do is get someone there that knows how to tune one. Also I'd find a mag that works better. You said you had 4 of them. Possibly you can make one good one out of the ones you have.
@@HumbleAcres ok can you keep me in mind I really want first dibbs on the tractor if you want to sell it here is my phone number 5747809243 the reason I really want a john Deere A is because I had one that was stolen from me by my uncle and he sold it without my knowledge until a few years later about 2 years ago and my grandparents passed away 3 years ago and I was kicked off the family farm and my uncle forged my name off the living will and I just want to replace the tractor I once had
The reason why the crank case is full of gas is because it leaks past the carburetor needle and seat. You need to get a ball valve shutoff on your fuel line. No matter what I did to my model A’s. The carburetors still leaked internally. So I got a shut off. I would fill them up with gas. And within three or four months about 4 gallons of gasoline would make its way into the crank case. Don’t make my mistake. And 21:36 you have to introduce fuel into the cylinder by choking one revolution.....then no choke and it should start. Your spark plugs looked really black. You need to clean all the bees out of the air cleaner. Mud Dobbers get up in there, and plug up that stack. Don’t just change the oil on the oil bath. Take the whole damn thing apart and clean it . Then put some aluminum screen around the stack to keep the hornets out. Ask me how I know. Also the up-and-down thing you’ve got going on there. You say it’s not idling very smoothly. You need to make sure your linkage to your levers are free. Take the cover off of your governor… It’s the round cover on the left side above the fly wheel. And see if the weights are free. Sometimes I get seized up and your engine idles weird. The governor keep you from over revving the engine. So no matter how much throttle you give it. It only runs out about 1000 RPM wide-open. But during load it gives the carburetor more. It’s pretty slick how it works.
NAPA has a little gas filter that fits right inside that sediment bowl, don't know the # right off, when the throttle is all the way back, it shuts the gas off, open it up a 1/4 way
I'd buy a spark plug light. Brake Pad Cleaner would work better for cleaning. I'd go 5W30 because of your climate. You're going to burn that starter up!! Timing is OFF!!
I love seeing older tractors saved, but I don't agree with it being such a priority to get them started without first doing an adequate tear down, and addressing concerns that should be given attention. They're tired/help THEM!
SORRY ABOUT THE SPELLING I,VE BEEN JOHN DEERE WORKING ON MY OLD DEERE FOR THREE DAYS AND I,M WORE OUT I DIDN,T KNOW ABOUT THE AMOUNT OF OILBUT THEY SAY PUT SOME STP THEY HAVE TAKEN OUT SOMETHING THAT SAVED YOUR CAM AND BEARINGS IVAN FROM ILLINOIS.
So glad you got it started I love these old tractors two thumbs up for the starter it is the MVP
I’ve got a 1947 that I’m converting from 6to 12 volt right now then I’m gonna put that popper to work reviving an old coastal field that has gone to the weeds !! Love that sound when they are running right! Good luck with yours . She’ll probably run better if you would put on some shoes or boots though 😂
OLD JOHN DEERE ARE ARE A WORK OF ART PUT SOME GOOD FUEL AND UNFREEZE YOUR THROTTLE THAT ONE GOOD BE FOR THE SHUTTLE IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR IMM WORKING ON A 1949 A WITH MAJOR STARTER TROUBLES BUT YOU ARE DOING GOOD IVAN FROM ILLINOIS.
Thanks for giving this old John Deere some love. Once it fired up I would have tried more throttle (likely forward) to clear out the carbon. The lower lever is possibly spark advance, you could loosen that one up and that may help it run better. Working with open toed sandals is scaring me - that crescent wrench or other spanners could fall with the tractor vibrating - right onto your big toe... Most shops require steel toe or at least closed toe for a reason. Also better to pour out stale gas into a barrel for incineration with other waste wood and paper than to pour on the ground. It can migrate to the water table and create a long term contamination.
You have a lot to learn! Don’t be afraid to give the engine some RPM’s by pushing the throttle lever forward. Especially when starting. Give the engine some air. The crankcase oil was contaminated with gasoline because of carburetor issues. Always shut off the gas when you’re done playing with it. Your crankcase oil will not get contaminated with gas nearly as easy. There should be some compression release pet cocks on the bottom of the block. Some have pipe plugs which can be removed and regular pet cocks can be installed. The two wires behind the carburetor are more likely the wires for your lights and charging. Don’t stay on the starter like that. Read your operators manual
Glad to see you getting old tractor going. Long ways from in the bushes I fist seen it in
Carb needs tune so adjustment to screws to when have run and Generator be running on those need hook by that wire harness you trying figure out !
I never didsee you turn the switch on but it started so i guess you did. Great job. I grew up on a jd a 1951 and a 1953 jd 70 gas.
That's so cool to get the old girl going!!! Thanks!
You bet!
Hi! Love this Hi-Def Tractor Video! U took me back to when I was 11 and nose-ing around my Grandpa's JD A in 1968! Nowadays I'm a City Slicker Artist in L.A. but boy u sho' had me rolling n laughter as I listened to your Video while working in the shop.
At 3:03 when I saw those fresh looking points, I immediately knew someone had been workin' a field or two with that ol' JD!
Took me awhile to find frames 12:51 where u started coughin' & hackin'! Was busy workin' & thought u accidently sipped *Gasoline* thinkin' it was a *Monster* Energy Drink.
Folks, around frames 15:00 he finally put some *gloves* on.
At 23:10 I heard the sound of beautiful *Johnny* *Pop* *Music* !
At 23:45 My Grandpa would have hollered out 2 You, _"Good God Amighty Boy she sound fine & ready for a day's work!"_
You've got some really fine pete moss covered *Vintage* *American* *Heritage* right there. Glad to see you have the _patience of a mule_ to get that JD A goin' strong again.
I’ve really been enjoying your videos. I am searching for one of these old. Johnny poppers.
Needle valve on your carb is sticking, that's why your getting gas in your oil. It's bleeding in there while the tractor isn't running. Shut your gas off at the bowl when you shut the tractor off.
the bottom lever below the throttle lever is for the louvers infront of the radiator for when it is cold
givin mee goosebumps wearimg those shoes around that kinda tractor lol ive hurt myself on one doin that
You are such a pleasant person. 👍
Time to move up from those military grade flip flops.Cool tractor,worth the time spent on it.
The flip flops are a pretty popular concern.
For safety reasons, flip flops and farm equipment don’t mix
Very late to the party here, but my gut is telling me the issue is more fuel related. Sounded like it was running very rich & possibly the fuel was crappy as well although that's not so much an issue as modern stuff. Gotta go through your videos now and see what became of the project, it's good to see some younger folk getting on and working on these old machines without being constantly under the wing of an eager parent/grandparent. Not that that's a bad thing at all, but it's good to see people getting out there on their own volition and learning things themself.
OK after skipping through to the "problem solved" video, seems it was the timing being off. The thought did cross my mind to begin with but I made the mistake of assuming because you didn't touch it it'd be OK still (first port of call with running issues is check work we've just done that might cause it, 9/10 it's something there.) Really cool to see it fixed.
Sounded good, like its supposed to , it's a popping john
Johnny popper
The bottom level is for the shutters in front of the radiator forward is wide open
Go to harbor freight and pick up a spark plug tester that goes between the plug wire and the plug. Saves you a lot of trouble in the long run.
So far on the oil filter I have found Deere cheapest believe it or not $ 7.00 at Deere close to $15.00 elsewhere even on ebay
Also try some B12 chem tool in the fuel of anything that has been sitting it helps clean the gum and varnish out of fuel system
Carb probably full of crud from ethanol. Put a drain valve on the bowl so it can be emptied for longer periods not run
This A kind of reminds me of the 51 JD MT I bought in Nov. 2019. Just minor stuff compared to what kind of money that can be spent. Governor adjustment, change all fluids and filters, new gas and pow it started and I have never pulled the choke on this tractor. It sat for at least 20 years. I love it and use it on my hobby farm. Another interesting thing is I bought it at the site of a J D dealer where it could have been bought new in 1951 just 2 miles from my home from the son of W.D. VanScoter the dealer. All of the buildings are still there and maintained. I remember going there when I was a little boy with my dad. Preserving history one tractor or implement at a time.
Straight 30 weight Oil . Always shut your gas off and let it run down on fuel (or out) Check float height and adjust fuel mixture , Shes close !
I think I do need to adjust the carb some I didn't even mess with it. Thanks!
I would put some fresh 92 octane gas in it and run it awhile. The carb could clean itself somewhat but the fresh fuel would defiantly make a difference.
I did flush the gas and put some 91 non ethanol in. We don’t have a higher octane here.
Gutentight....ok. Depending on how long it set you may need to take the carb apart and clean out the jets. I use torch picks. I really don’t sound too bad.
I cleaned the carb out but didn't adjust anything. I have now adjusted it and it runs much smoother and starts right up. Thanks for the help!!
Gutentight...I have one I have a Farmall M I have done a complete engine rebuild. It set for 30 yrs locked up and the carb was a mess. You just gotta hang in there on them and you get stumped there are always guys out there to get help from!
One gasket for an A and the other for a B
My brother in laws John Deere B he had had 2 pitcocks under the engine to open to let go of compretion until it starts.
Yep one for each cylinder
I case no one told you the 2 cyl jd idle on 1 cly and the engine oil should be 30 w non detergent oil in the summer
Good to know thanks.
Man I really like the way you did the Perkins and I locked the way you're doing this old tractor but come on man doing mechanic work come on
Have you considered doing a wide front conversion?
Yes but after farther research it will be much easier and cheaper to do a narrow front end.
Sounds like you need to adjust the carb and those type of carbs are not easy to tune. Best thing you could do is get someone there that knows how to tune one. Also I'd find a mag that works better. You said you had 4 of them. Possibly you can make one good one out of the ones you have.
Sooner than later you are going to get a foot or toe smashed wearing flip flops around machinery.
Maybe
@@HumbleAcres I've worn flip flops for years around machinery and have never gotten hurt #FLOPGANG
@@HumbleAcres would you be interested in selling the john deere A I'm interested in buying it if you want to sell it call me 5747809243
@@harrybobb6927 not at the moment thanks
@@HumbleAcres ok can you keep me in mind I really want first dibbs on the tractor if you want to sell it here is my phone number 5747809243 the reason I really want a john Deere A is because I had one that was stolen from me by my uncle and he sold it without my knowledge until a few years later about 2 years ago and my grandparents passed away 3 years ago and I was kicked off the family farm and my uncle forged my name off the living will and I just want to replace the tractor I once had
The reason why the crank case is full of gas is because it leaks past the carburetor needle and seat. You need to get a ball valve shutoff on your fuel line.
No matter what I did to my model A’s. The carburetors still leaked internally. So I got a shut off. I would fill them up with gas. And within three or four months about 4 gallons of gasoline would make its way into the crank case. Don’t make my mistake.
And 21:36 you have to introduce fuel into the cylinder by choking one revolution.....then no choke and it should start.
Your spark plugs looked really black. You need to clean all the bees out of the air cleaner. Mud Dobbers get up in there, and plug up that stack. Don’t just change the oil on the oil bath. Take the whole damn thing apart and clean it . Then put some aluminum screen around the stack to keep the hornets out. Ask me how I know.
Also the up-and-down thing you’ve got going on there. You say it’s not idling very smoothly. You need to make sure your linkage to your levers are free. Take the cover off of your governor… It’s the round cover on the left side above the fly wheel. And see if the weights are free. Sometimes I get seized up and your engine idles weird.
The governor keep you from over revving the engine. So no matter how much throttle you give it. It only runs out about 1000 RPM wide-open. But during load it gives the carburetor more. It’s pretty slick how it works.
NAPA has a little gas filter that fits right inside that sediment bowl, don't know the # right off, when the throttle is all the way back, it shuts the gas off, open it up a 1/4 way
ok Thanks!
Did you drain out the oil in the outer cover(clutch pulley )? There's oil in it too.
nope
A little more fine tuning it’ll run like it’s supposed to..
I hope so, need to mess with the carb a little.
Are you using a 12 volt positive ground ?
That’s not neutral but nice tractor. Sounds good but definitely needs some fine tuning.
killing that starter.....
I think it was already weak.
Your needle valve in the carb is bleeding by allowing gas to go into your oil.
Flip flops?
Lol yep
Set that carb asap
Jesus Christ dude, I swear beginning at 21:00 you are trying to burn the starter up.!! I'm surprised it didn't start smoking....
I'd buy a spark plug light. Brake Pad Cleaner would work better for cleaning. I'd go 5W30 because of your climate.
You're going to burn that starter up!! Timing is OFF!!
You are right about all of this.
@@HumbleAcres - Great job anyway!
Clean the carburetor
You can't turn it over that long. You'll burn the starter up.
Yep
It may be is Out of Time I think.
You are correct. there is another video of timing it.
I'll bet it wasn't charging.
You would be correct
@@HumbleAcres Those two mystery wires are likely involved.
@@57fitter You are right again.
I love seeing older tractors saved, but I don't agree with it being such a priority to get them started without first doing an adequate tear down, and addressing concerns that should be given attention. They're tired/help THEM!
Darn.........I'm getting dizzy.
Ya the head cam isn't the best.
SORRY ABOUT THE SPELLING I,VE BEEN JOHN DEERE WORKING ON MY OLD DEERE FOR THREE DAYS AND I,M WORE OUT I DIDN,T KNOW ABOUT THE AMOUNT OF OILBUT THEY SAY PUT SOME STP THEY HAVE TAKEN OUT SOMETHING THAT SAVED YOUR CAM AND BEARINGS IVAN FROM ILLINOIS.
You need a new starter bud.
You are correct!
@@HumbleAcres you have killed the one on the tractor.
It did seem like it was struggling to turn the engine over. That may be one issue with hard starting.
Don't you dare paint it. She looks great in her work clothes.
I HATE TO SEE IDIOTS WEARING FLIP FLOPS WHILE WORKING ON HEAVY EQUIPMENT, YOU SURELY WILL GET SEVERLY HURT!
We will see.
Good way to burn up a starter
Yes it is
Go get some fing shoes on.
I dont. Know about this guy
I know right. and his shoes, oh brother.
70 seconds of Cringe starts at 21:07
You're not wrong
ware a pare of shoes when working in tractors ,
wear a pair......geez
Junk