Engine Damage Found On Our CAT 259d Skid Steer from Auto Auction
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In this episode we are working on our 2014 Caterpillar 259d skid steer with body and recent engine damage. We spend all day trying to take out the engine, and finally we get it out. After draining the oil and taking off the oil pan we find the real damage and its no good. Thanks for all the support. We think we need an engine what do u guys think?
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The person who is reading this comment i wish you great success health love and happiness God bless you guys i watching from morocco ❤
Thanks and you too
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Thank you very much, i wish you all the same.
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Rebuild it, trust me not as bad as it seems. If the crank isn’t tore up 🤞, it’s just legos with a rebuild kit 👍. Cats are the best diesels out there
This
Not a cat diesel though haha
That's a kubota engine v3307 .
@@chadh6650 hey, I think CAT doesn’t make unwise moves, they’ve got a reputation to keep. What about the C3.3?
Look up a kubota v3307 its just paint and a cat sticker cat has never made a engine for there skid steers .I buy all my parts from engine power source there a big kubota dealer . I work on them 6 days a week
The dealer just replaces them when they run into an issue like this. It’s not economical for them to rebuild them with their labor rate. With that being said there is no core charge on these engines. You might want to stop by your local dealer and see if they have any they might be willing to parts with. You might find one with a good crank.
This is 100% correct. I'm a dealer tech and we have 4 of these engines sitting in our yard. We hold for 3 months and if warranty doesn't ask for it back, we toss it. I bet you could get a parts engine for free.
It’s a CAT. Rebuild that diesel. You guys rebuilt a semi. Lol. It wasn’t the engine, I know. But jeeze you guys can do it. And we’ll watch. Lol
It would be a lot cheaper to rebuild than replace if you do the work your self
Well, there's no telling what components in the engine got starved of oil. I'd say it's likely trashed. Maybe try to find a long block assembly if a used engine can't be located.
The loader was probably laid on it's side. The engine's oil pump sucked air. The result was two spun rod bearings. Likely the crankshaft main bearings are also damaged.
Fortunately, Caterpillars are very easy to work on and they sell engine rebuild kits. I'd recommend buying a short block, since the crankshaft, oil pump, connecting rods and possibly the pistons will be scored from lack of oil.
Some gooffy rolled it... Oil starvation for sure. Now to say it's toast...
So basically they rolled it left it running and starved the lower of oil.
Shouldn't the first thing you do is shut it off? WTF?
That’s what I was just about to comment lol you’d think when ya tip you’d shut it off but maybe they tried to roll themselves back over lol
Kind of rough , Repairable but requires complete tear down,Most likely one rod and lots of replacement plart for rebuild. If your planning on keeping it. you might get your money back over the long Haul, Good luck and keep kicking.
This is the 1st time I have ever seen a UA-camr draw off the AC gas! Well done.
Come on you guys, you have never back down from a challenge, go for it
It does look bad guys, but in all the time that I have been watching this channel, I don't think anything as ever really got the better of you. I have every confidence in your abilities to get this done. 👍
A little bit of advice from an experienced mechanic on multiple types of engines.
As a Coast Guard seaplane and helo Aviation Machinist Mate I learned when working on engine, props and rotor transmission changes to take pictures of every assembly multiple angles so when you put it back together you have a reference to where every thing goes.
Put all bolts, screws, nuts and other hardware in a heavy duty zip lock bag labeled for the part it goes to.
We did that because there may be lead time waiting for parts and assemblies that may cause problems remembering what went where and how.
Plus it's easier to keep track of the little buggers.
You guys can rebuild that engine.
Just make sure you have all the tools, manual, torque wrench and everything else needed to do it right.
Have the head and block shaved true at a certified machine shop.
I'm a mechanical engineer that works in industrial engine design. Here are my thoughts...
Probably left it running after it rolled and the pickup wasn't submerged. Sucked air and ran without oil for an extended period If you see color on the crank, I wouldn't use it again. It'll never be the same.
The main bearings are probably shot too, but hopefully you don't have a damaged a main bearing bore. I'd check those next. With the rod bearings gone, the pistons can possibly hit the head or valves at TDC. I'd pull the head and inspect for damage. Also inspect the cam/cam journals since it ran without oil.
If the block and head are salvageable, at minimum a new or good used crank and set of rods along with a new set of bearings. Pistons, cam, and cylinder head TBD. Then a seal set and you're ready to go. If the block is damaged it may be better to try and find a shortblock to swap in.
Good luck,
Ryan
This is THE best way to learn.. I've learned through many years experience, never drive anything unless you can fix if it breaks..
Ive done engine swaps, gearbox swaps, hydraulics, electrics, welding etc etc.... Fantastic video.
Hey brothers its worth rebuilding alot of parts available at cat since its a common engine plus if you guys are planning to keep.it for a long time its worth it. 😀 keep the best content coming.
OK so a quick check on what these machines are retailing for - $34,500 - $36,500. You've got $16,200 invested + time & sweat equity. The hydralics work, needs a door, engine / engine work & bucket/forks so what are we talking another $ 6-10 K MAX ?? Your still ahead of the game!!
PLUS you said it would be a great addition to the shop - IMHO - Nothing to it but to do it!!
The music was rockin' just like your work. Always looking forward to your videos.
Repair the engine get a crank and bearings kit replace the two connecting rods that had the spun bearings get a engine gasket set take the engine apart completely and clean out all the metal then reassemble with the new parts it will probably cost between 1500 to 2000 at most but it will be good as new and way cheaper than a replacement unit and this way you know what you have
Love you guy's budget approach. Don't buy new, get it salvage, fix it up, save $$$$!
I say check out the cost to rebuild. These machines are high demand.
Thus worth it !
I vote for a rebuild. The hours are still relatively low and the rest of the machine looks solid. We've got a 2013 Bobcat S850 with 8700 hours on it. Runs solid as a rock. Bought it as a single owner, dealer maintained machine. New drive pumps and such at 6k hours, but take care of this diesels and they'll last you, so, if you rebuild this one you're more or less starting with 0 hours IMO. --- I can always use a good tshirt!
Check the cylinder bores for scoring etc. Id just get a new crank and bearings myself. Its not something that you are going to be driving hundreds of miles from home in lol. It doesn't have to run perfect. Its just needs to run well enough to do the odd chores you need it for.
The most expensive way to do things is half baked or the dreaded "good enough" stuff... Sorry Dave.
Years of experience speaking, not in diesel but in many ways.
Another source of info would be the CAT rebuild in Houston TX (RS Industrial engine). Assuming is the 3.3 DIT engine Or 3044 engine type which is common across a large range of CAT construction they have a good source of used and remanufactured. A reman from them with a 2 year guarantee is circa $5k. Rebuild kits for gaskets, bearings, bolts (Std and over size) for OEM is readily available at circa $1100. Individual pistons with rings are
2500 hrs up, bottom end toast, there will be damage to the head and valves, from 2 pistons, all oil galleries will have swarf contamination as will the oil pump and filters.
The one you have will need to be completely stripped, Crank reground or replaced, 2 rods, possibly Block bored and a set of pistons and rings a set of main and rod bearings, and we haven't got to the possible damage to the head and valve train yet. I'd be looking for a replacement engine.
Cheers Eric
I thought it would be hard to get that engine out but twenty minutes later it is out of the skid steer. You make it look easy.
It's pretty apparent why the keys were missing. That engine needs a total tear down. All that metal went somewhere; better to find it now than the second time you take it apart.
Keep your heads up and moving forward! This is great content and great to watch!!
Before throwing in the towel, see what other types of equipment have or use that engine... also see what else fits in the same hole. Its not a violin but its real hard days work for sure.. couldn't separate the the torque supply from the engine?? or is that more for discovery yet to come. I can appreciate the hard work as I did just that for a lot of years. Those never came in but huge fork lifts and log loaders, cranes all came in and all have a kind of makes them the same when running... makes more sense to me than you for sure figuring out how to say something.
Finally someone with the balls to make a video!!
That oil pan looks like a litter box with all those shavings.
Also as you are probably aware these engines are Kubota based, it would be cheaper to get your main components from Kubota rather than CAT. While you are in there, the exhaust can burn up the rear engine wiring loom where the exhaust bell is located, the fix is to extend the pipe up the bell and add some best shielding to the wiring, if it burns the wires it will cause DPF issues with the air Map sensor and differential pressure sensors. I've worked on these for years so know them inside out
I'm an engine builder and yes rebuild that don't buy a used engine you could be right back in the same nightmare 6 months after going used engine.i would pull the crankshaft and send to machine shop new mains,rods,oil pump,clean pickup tube real good,pull filter and filter housing,pull all oil galley plugs in block and wash out with break lean till all contaminated oil is gone in block.now do same to turbo oil feed pipe and turbo housing,now do same to oil cooler lines and oil cooler,mic the rod bearing and check if out replace rod.that engine is low hours fix it
Okay, I would not rule out anything at this point. First step start stripping that engine down. Were those tiny little roller bearings in the strainer? Might be some top end damage like a rocker bearing. With that much trash in the pan, its quite likely that the filter was bypassing at some point and pushing debris through the engine, at a minimum you'll need to fetch a set of galley brushes and completely clean the passages in the block if you opt for a rebuild versus replace. Rebuild would be a more exciting video and a machine shop will let you know if they can polish out the crank to the next undersize. Was the white smoke it was pushing oil or fuel? I'd go forward with stripping the block as if you were going to rebuild.
Guys you can rebuild this engine. Cat has parts and service centers all over. I mean y’all rebuilt a completely destroyed Raptor that was burnt to a crisp. Lol. Great video guys. It definitely looked like a pain to get out.
Run it back on the auction. It’s not worth the repair
Now I know why these machines are so expensive. A lot goes into them.
If you find no pieces of the bearing sleeve it wasn't ground up it was left out I think by last rebuilder maybe? The noise scared them from rebuilding again. Why not filter oils and replace sleeves. Maybe there is no risk if cams and shafts look good.
You made engine removal way harder by not hysterical removing the pumps from the engine
two bolts
Don’t give up on it. I want to watch the rebuild.
Tough break guys. Take the crank and rods to a machine shop and see if it can be rebuilt. Loving the content, very different and interesting.
Certainly repairable but at what cost in parts and time? Plus other damage could present itself latterly if as you say it was run upside down. Might be better to cut your losses on this engine and get a decent second hand engine for it. Great project though... different... and CAT stuff is cool! Thanks guys
Have you guys considered buying the complete service manual rom the dealer? Do they even sell one? I’m sure they make it.
That should give you a step by step on rebuilding that engine, putting it back in and every torque spec and exact measurements needed for everything.
definitely rebuild it at least it didn't throw a rod and its extra content for you guys so more money
REBUILD IT
You can buy a new crank or reman crank if offered. I would check the two liners of the bad bearings. You should be able to get new cylinder packs if bad. Check the main cap bearings next to the failed rod bearings. Also check the head. The pistons could have made contact with the valves and or head with that much play. I would say the cost of rebuilding the engine if not to bad will be 5 to 10 k.
You guys did awesome jobs rebuilding lot of cars with crazy damages ... we believe on you to make this " CAT GREAT AGAIN" 😂😂😂👍👍👍
You're into it now, so do a full rebuild. CAT has all the parts. The starting point, to determine if it is worth saving, is the crank and cam. You need to mic the crank at the rods and the main bearings so you can determine if you can go oversized bearings. Then check the cam for damage. The Crank and Cam are the key points for oil flow and they will tell you if it is worth saving. If the cam is good, then you can go oversized bearings and you are good to go - Have the crank machined and buy 2 rods, full rings, and full bearings. If you have to replace the crank and cam, then it becomes questionable. There are a ton of used engines for these out there, but used is still a risk. I am betting (since the other rod bearing was okay) that you won't have too much damage. The question is: Do you want to do the work for a full rebuild? Most fleets just swap to a remanufactured engine, but I would rebuild it. My question is: why was there no coolant in the system?
Rebuild it! For the price y’all got it for plus the price of rebuilding it y’all still have an awesome machine for the price.
These comments crack me up. You can sure tell guys who have never torn down an engine that spun a rod bearing. I wouldn't be surprised if the cam and cam followers are toast. And the cam bearings are done for sure. Big question is how many real hours on the engine.
If you want to just throw it back together take the crank out get it checked by the machine shop. If it's in spec get it polished grab new rods and bearings and slap them in. But obviously if you want that engine to last a full rebuild is required given the amount of shavings found in the oil pan.
Honestly it depends how deep you are in to the purchase, I would price check out the crank etc and see what parts from Kubota would cost you ( that is a Kubota engine fellas ) and if the parts and if it needs some machine work isnt too steep, you can rebuild it and keep it or flip it, a rebuilt engine done right will still fetch a good buck, skid steers are not cheap even houred out ones. I think it is definitely doable and I dont think we have seen you guys lose money on a project yet.
Lower rebuild. New crank maybe or get it turned if you can, new bearings and put it back together.
that is some major motor carnage
I can’t believe Cat made something so impossible to work on or clean, dirt can get but it can’t get out. Nice work, you are much more patient than me.
You might be able to hone block and reuse the stick pistons
Turn the crank and buy two new rods of same weights...resize the other two or just get a matched set of four...today’s mass crankshaft manufacturing it might be a better deal to just replace the crank with aftermarket...new oil pump is mandatory and four balanced rebuild injectors ...also rebuild cyl head...
I have been rebuilding engines the correct way ..no bandaids but if you can find a salvaged engine it’s most likely cheaper if its low hours and not hammered...also just check on cat reman ..it might be cheaper
Good luck and when you get it in service..use quality synthetic oil only
How the heck did you get those front firewall side bolts out of the DPF can? did you pull that firewall panel first?
If a vehicle rolls over, the oil in the oil pan will flow to the top of the engine, away from the oil pump pickup tube. This will lead to a loss of oil pressure and wear out the bearings. It does not surprise me that this engine lost the bearings. That’s one of the reasons why if you ever roll a vehicle over, the first thing you should do Is shut off the vehicle. This also cuts off fuel flow to the hot engine compartment lessening your chance of a vehicle fire. It’s not a hard rebuild but it’s inconvenient for sure.
Re build makes great viewing
I would talk to a couple engine builders and get their opinion. You may be able to clean the crankshaft up and run oversized bearings or something along those lines. I know it looks bad but I think with as far as you are now, the hard part is over. You know whats wrong and now just need to remedy the issue. Love the content and good luck!
for what a new crank would cost, I'd clean it up, emory cloth the crank rod journals. Probably will clean up fairly well since the rod bearing melted and welded pieces to the crank. Rod bearings melt at much lower temp than cast iron crank. If cast iron rod has hit the cast iron crank, you may be out of luck. Check the crank mains, new bearings, check clearances. Diesels are low RPM, and the crank/rods/pistons are very strong. Journals have to look perfect. Rod clearances can be somewhat larger than spec w/o knocking. Give it a shot, you may be surprised that most of that crank journal roughness is melted/welded bearing material. Good Luck Dude.. that's a good machine, regularly 4000 hours and still chugging.
Err.. Journals DON'T have to look perfect.. smooth, no high spots, a small divit or two is OK.
Another fact.. when it was running, Clearly could hear the rod knock, more than a rattle, but heard worse.
Hey guys great content! You got this far time to finish what you have started lol
Rebuild it boy's all in all you get a good deal on it!
new crank,new rods,new bearings.might be able to have the crank ground and go oversize :o)
Come on guys , You could here that knocking in England !
I'd tear down and check that crank .. if its toast ... Rethink.
If its savable then everything's apart anyway .. so check and clean out the lot.
You have motor out just rebuild it save the aggravation later.👍
Maybe check cylinders see how bad but it be great to you guys bring it back to life
Wow that’s a bummer but not as bad as it could have been looks like a crank grind and a couple of con rods and a rebuild kit and should be good as new again
You guys are up to the challenge for sure 👍👍👍👍
Rebuild it and we will keep watching. No doubt you guys can do it
It’s a bit late, but I know how you feel. Bought a 2012 BMW 7 series from our local Copart (Dayton Ohio) didn’t get to hear it run and it had a bad knock. Apparently the N63 isn’t one of their better designs. After some investigation I believe one of the cylinders has a bad connector rod bearing. Car was bought as a project, so more of a project than I wanted but will pull engine and see if it’s rebuildable. Wish me luck
Hi, guys...I always enjoy your interesting builds, thanks! I'd take a look at the top end, too...are there valve issues as well? If not, it might just mean a new crank, pistons and rods, and it'll run for a long, long, time. Diesels are prone to hydro-lock bending valves (don't ask me how I learned this) especially if run upside down. If the valves and head are damaged, too, then it might make more sense to scrap it and go for a used engine. Once you know what needs to be replaced you can run the numbers and compare to a rebuilt or used engine.
Take Emery cloth on the two bad rod bearings. Polish up the crank and put two new rod bearing in and see how she run. It could't hurt.
Come on lads whats up with you the whole strip down only took about 19 minutesso it will take you 10 minutes for the rebuild + another 19 minutes to put back inthe frame and get it running,seriously though i certainly think i would rebuild it,i think i would have the two good rods checked for alignment,then check the wear between the good journals and the damaged ones to see if crank can be saved,fair chance bores and pistons will be ok,get to be worth a look.
Yikes that much metal warrants a complete overhaul, sorry for your luck but keep on smiling ✌️
A crank two rods and a rebuild kit slap it back together it’s a diesel it’s got many more years left.
Great job lv the video
Your half way done! Get the new parts and send it!
6:53 ”So we’ll take it apart really quickl... really safely!”
I would repair it or rebuild it because no other channels has or rebuilt any skid steer. It would be cool to see .
Get the crank checked over / ground and polished. New rod bearings along with conrods and you’re away. Easy fix
so I cant tell you which pins to jump (finning actually will), but behind the seat, on the LH (if you are sitting in the seat) there is a plug on a harness and you can jump two pins to bypass door switch, i think there might even be a factory plug to accomplish this for running door less.
Hey you can flip it over and change bearings not a big deal. But double check and make sure they didn't bend a rod
"Gas lines unhooked"??? I thought it was a diesel..... LOL
If the crank journals not grooved I would consider cleaning the 2x crank bearings with cloth tape and hydrocholic acid to remove adhered aluminium from old bearing, then maybe some 2000 grit wet and dry to polish then new rod bearings. I would then run it on used motor oil and new filter and change it several times to take out as much swarf as possible, minimum cost before new oil. Depends how much yr time is worth vs. a replacement (probably unknown condition) engine.
You tried lifting it up with a 1 inch ratchet strap....lol
hi guys .. I think it is worth rebuilding the crankshaft and changing the damaged connecting rods. it is seen to be a robust engine. you should see the cylinder head as it is. from what you see it is an engine with a long useful life ahead, greetings from Argentina
Probably already posted but behind the seat is the plug for the door loom, you can run a bypass plug with jumper wire if you plan on running without the door, saves messing with the magnetic door switch.
Keep going we are enjoying watching your work here in 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Engine seems perfectly rebuildable to me
Rebuild it! you never know how much more damage there is
need a couple rods, crank, and then bearings, gaskets, oil pump. maybe find a burnt unit that you can salvage parts out of. It is fixable for sure
The labor is the expensive part. You guys have that covered. Start ordering parts. Good luck.
Time for a Crank Kit plus two rods , not going to be cheap....Good Luck...... Retired Mechanic......
Rebuild for the content fellas. Keep up the good work! Skid past 2021 lol. It's not looking good for most of us so far!
It’s probably cheaper to have it rebuilt then to buy a new engine, find a good shop, get an estimate on a rebuild. It’s just an engine, the machine doesn’t look that bad. You’d have a solid machine, probably still be in it for less than replacement
I agree you should rebuild it.
Would love to see you guys continue with the rebuild! So interesting! Its like there is nothing you cannot do!
You guys are awesome you'll get it.
hi guys you should get in touch with Deboss Garage he specialize on diesel engine and he really knows his stuff he is on youtube if someone could help you he is the one
Niko brothers do great work
Stay positive great job.