All of these videos miss one very important thing. The front sight is adjustable for zeroing. It's held in place by a hex screw. Just loosen it slightly and drift it left or right. The rear sight should remain centered unless you're shooting in a wind.
bringing home my first Garand in about 12 days. was told "you're going to have fun getting this sighted in". not sure if that was sarcasm or not...this video makes it look easy
Im very happy with your presentation on sight alignment, wind age, elevation & most of all the connection of how these two factors affect the distance and how the bullet hits the target or at least the kind of group that your trying to attain. I can appreciate this video and the author that made it! thank you sir I will gladly subscribe and give thumbs up. No domination Tabasco or loud music here... wish others made this kind of quality with regard to a find military service rifle as the M1Garand
Regarding the partials, I have a tendency to load the same way you did but instead of using the off-hand's thumb to push the rounds down to release the bolt, I just use my right hand to pull charging handle back while pushing the rounds down and the bolt will proceed forward...
@politicallyinsensitive how are you liking yours? Are you gonna get an adjustable gas plug so you can run commercial ammunition? And do you use grease as lubrication when shooting it?
That will be your windage, it has a tensioning screw I believe that you may need to break loose. Your best bet is probably to find a video on actually disassembling the rear sight itself, and in that you should find how to tension or relieve tension from that adjustment knob.
If you tighten up on the screw too much you can lock it in place. You just need to loosen it a little. Make your windage adjustments during sightin and tighten it back up.
You need to hold the forward grip even though you are using a sand bag. The Rifle will still jump and you do not want it to jump when firing. That is a huge common mistake when people use a sandbag. one clip right one clip up
this comment is ridiculous. the rifle is not going to magically bounce away from any round being fired. if you're afraid of that happening, then you should stop shooting high caliber firearms
I agree I would rather have a zero wind windage with the rear windage center and drift the front sight for zero. Then adjust for wind with rear windage. Thanks
You can certainly do that, but it would/could make it more difficult to find your zero. The click adjustment is a lifesaver when trying to zero a rifle. Knowing that it is 1MOA per click vs "well I need to go left a bit, so, hit it hard, but not too hard, maybe a little more, yeah that should be good". Besides, you can zero with your rear sight and then know that you are 3 clicks right of mechanical zero, you can even make a mark on your rear sight as kind of a new "actual" zero reference. Either way, its your rifle, do with it as you see fit.
@@nchunter8918 I don't think you understand what I'm saying? I want my zero to be a true zero and then have my click adjustments to adjust from there. Why would what you want your zero to be three clicks right or left and have to remember that?
Its a true zero regardless of if it corresponds to your mechanical zero. And the reason for doing it that way is mainly so you dont have to concern yourself with drifting the front sight. It is just a much simpler method of sighting the rifle in, and it yields the same result, with the exception that you either have to remark your rear sight, which is easily done, or note what the difference between your true zero and mechanical zero are. Like, 3 clicks right from mechanical zero is my true zero.
@@nchunter8918 I get what you're saying but to me there's very little effort in drifting the front sight and in my opinion getting it right. At least for my eye. Thanks
@@nchunter8918 Brian is saying so that your windage remains at zero, and so when you actually choose to use your windage on the range you can set it back to center and not guess which notch you had it at before. Windage is supposed to be set on the front site with the rear notch centered for a true initial zero so you can actually use your windage. But hey, sighting in through the rear sight works for the m16 all the same - same goes for the garand it works too.
If you’ve never shot the rifle before it may not be on paper at 100. This way you zero at 25, move back to 50 or 100 and re-zero, then back to 200 and do a final zero. Longer way to do it, but it’s a sure fire way.
So sight all the way down, then why up the 8-10 clicks? Watched multiple videos and everyone says this but neglect to explain WHY. The answer may be so obvious to those in the know, that they completely overlook explaining it... but you have to remind yourself that the entire purpose of a how-to video is to teach people NOT in the know.
The explanation to that isn't so obvious that I assumed everyone would know, rather, it is just completely unnecessary. In other words, you dont have to understand that why, in order to sight in your rifle. But sure, here is why. Your rifle has tolerances, they built it in that at 25 yards most rifles will be 8 or 10 clicks up from the very bottom to be zero'd. That way when the "weird" rifles come along that require less than that, it can still be achieved. If most rifles were bottomed out completely to zero them, then the outliers could never be zero'd. Hopefully that makes sense.
I own over 300 rifles of all types and 6 different Garands purchased through the CMP. You lost me 1 minute and 30 seconds in when talking about sighting in. " the bullet will still be rising". Bud, bullets don't ever "rise". Gravity takes over the nano second the bullet leaves the barrel.
So if you're out in the front yard with a young son (or daughter) with a soft ball that they are learning to catch, as soon as the ball leaves your hand it's rolling on the grass somewhere? or do you slow pitch it so it actually travels in an inverted bell curve? A rifle does a similar trajectory, the longer the distance to the target the more length of the curve. Most of the bullet drop is at the end of the travel and it doesn't drop in a straight line after leaving the barrel. So yes, the bullet does "rise" when first fired. How much depends on the setting of the sights.
@@kennoneya4671 The BULLET DOESNT RISE. Put that rifle level on the bench. Don't be concerned with aiming and hitting anything. When you pull the trigger the bullet RISES? NOPE! Gravity, what a concept.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
All of these videos miss one very important thing. The front sight is adjustable for zeroing. It's held in place by a hex screw. Just loosen it slightly and drift it left or right. The rear sight should remain centered unless you're shooting in a wind.
bringing home my first Garand in about 12 days. was told "you're going to have fun getting this sighted in". not sure if that was sarcasm or not...this video makes it look easy
Im very happy with your presentation on sight alignment, wind age, elevation & most of all the connection of how these two factors affect the distance and how the bullet hits the target or at least the kind of group that your trying to attain. I can appreciate this video and the author that made it! thank you sir I will gladly subscribe and give thumbs up. No domination Tabasco or loud music here... wish others made this kind of quality with regard to a find military service rifle as the M1Garand
Thank you for your very kind comment!
Regarding the partials, I have a tendency to load the same way you did but instead of using the off-hand's thumb to push the rounds down to release the bolt, I just use my right hand to pull charging handle back while pushing the rounds down and the bolt will proceed forward...
Nice video, thanks for making it. Just waiting for mine to ship from CMP 👍
@politicallyinsensitive how are you liking yours? Are you gonna get an adjustable gas plug so you can run commercial ammunition? And do you use grease as lubrication when shooting it?
shooting bench: store bought or homemade. Please provide details
Just got one of these. Can't wait to shoot it
...damn fine group. my friend...
Would you say aiming down a Garand is difficult? Or is that little hole actually able to get a good sight on someone
Not difficult at all, IMO this sighting system is one of the best around.
@@nchunter8918 alright thank you very much!
@@nchunter8918 front post is a bit thick. Was kinda hard to see what i was doing at 100yards
Good info. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Can anybody tell me why this video is scrambled?
I’m a newbie to the platform, just got one last night. The knob on the right side is stuck, how would I fix that?
That will be your windage, it has a tensioning screw I believe that you may need to break loose. Your best bet is probably to find a video on actually disassembling the rear sight itself, and in that you should find how to tension or relieve tension from that adjustment knob.
Take it apart clean it and put back together after watching
a video or in a manual. It's easy to do
If you tighten up on the screw too much you can lock it in place. You just need to loosen it a little. Make your windage adjustments during sightin and tighten it back up.
At 100 yds im only 3 clicks from the bottom. Is that normal
Each rifle is different. 8-10 clicks up should get an M1 rifle on paper at 100 yards on average.
You need to hold the forward grip even though you are using a sand bag. The Rifle will still jump and you do not want it to jump when firing. That is a huge common mistake when people use a sandbag. one clip right one clip up
Pretty sure you want it to freely recoil... Same as if you shot it standing
this comment is ridiculous. the rifle is not going to magically bounce away from any round being fired. if you're afraid of that happening, then you should stop shooting high caliber firearms
@@SexyFace You really know nothing of what you are talking about!
How much ???
My m1 is at bottom and I still have to aim atleast 7 inches low to get on target at 100 metres
You have to adjust the knob
@@urgamecshk it's all sorted zeroed fine
I agree I would rather have a zero wind windage with the rear windage center and drift the front sight for zero. Then adjust for wind with rear windage. Thanks
You can certainly do that, but it would/could make it more difficult to find your zero. The click adjustment is a lifesaver when trying to zero a rifle. Knowing that it is 1MOA per click vs "well I need to go left a bit, so, hit it hard, but not too hard, maybe a little more, yeah that should be good".
Besides, you can zero with your rear sight and then know that you are 3 clicks right of mechanical zero, you can even make a mark on your rear sight as kind of a new "actual" zero reference.
Either way, its your rifle, do with it as you see fit.
@@nchunter8918 I don't think you understand what I'm saying? I want my zero to be a true zero and then have my click adjustments to adjust from there. Why would what you want your zero to be three clicks right or left and have to remember that?
Its a true zero regardless of if it corresponds to your mechanical zero.
And the reason for doing it that way is mainly so you dont have to concern yourself with drifting the front sight. It is just a much simpler method of sighting the rifle in, and it yields the same result, with the exception that you either have to remark your rear sight, which is easily done, or note what the difference between your true zero and mechanical zero are. Like, 3 clicks right from mechanical zero is my true zero.
@@nchunter8918 I get what you're saying but to me there's very little effort in drifting the front sight and in my opinion getting it right. At least for my eye. Thanks
@@nchunter8918 Brian is saying so that your windage remains at zero, and so when you actually choose to use your windage on the range you can set it back to center and not guess which notch you had it at before. Windage is supposed to be set on the front site with the rear notch centered for a true initial zero so you can actually use your windage. But hey, sighting in through the rear sight works for the m16 all the same - same goes for the garand it works too.
1 7/8 high at 25 yards will get your "zero " for 250 yards.
When speaking on video no pops ticks or toung sounds
Why not zero at 100 or 200 yards to begin with?
If you’ve never shot the rifle before it may not be on paper at 100. This way you zero at 25, move back to 50 or 100 and re-zero, then back to 200 and do a final zero. Longer way to do it, but it’s a sure fire way.
@@john-michaelkusy8554 Understood!...Thanks!
So sight all the way down, then why up the 8-10 clicks? Watched multiple videos and everyone says this but neglect to explain WHY.
The answer may be so obvious to those in the know, that they completely overlook explaining it... but you have to remind yourself that the entire purpose of a how-to video is to teach people NOT in the know.
The explanation to that isn't so obvious that I assumed everyone would know, rather, it is just completely unnecessary.
In other words, you dont have to understand that why, in order to sight in your rifle. But sure, here is why.
Your rifle has tolerances, they built it in that at 25 yards most rifles will be 8 or 10 clicks up from the very bottom to be zero'd. That way when the "weird" rifles come along that require less than that, it can still be achieved. If most rifles were bottomed out completely to zero them, then the outliers could never be zero'd.
Hopefully that makes sense.
I was told it was the default setting. Just incase you need to adjust either way. 8 clicks is a starting point, if some how you loose zero in battle .
@@nchunter8918 @ 100 yds my tanker is 3 clicks
Bloke my garand all over up to a foot and half left
I own over 300 rifles of all types and 6 different Garands purchased through the CMP. You lost me 1 minute and 30 seconds in when talking about sighting in.
" the bullet will still be rising". Bud, bullets don't ever "rise". Gravity takes over the nano second the bullet leaves the barrel.
Gr8 B8 M8. I R8 8/8
It rises in relation to the line of the sights.
So if you're out in the front yard with a young son (or daughter) with a soft ball that they are learning to catch, as soon as the ball leaves your hand it's rolling on the grass somewhere? or do you slow pitch it so it actually travels in an inverted bell curve? A rifle does a similar trajectory, the longer the distance to the target the more length of the curve. Most of the bullet drop is at the end of the travel and it doesn't drop in a straight line after leaving the barrel. So yes, the bullet does "rise" when first fired. How much depends on the setting of the sights.
@@kennoneya4671 The BULLET DOESNT RISE. Put that rifle level on the bench. Don't be concerned with aiming and hitting anything. When you pull the trigger the bullet RISES? NOPE! Gravity, what a concept.
@@tomvogt5988 Aiming to hit your target. What a concept. Guess you've never played catch either.
Trust me there is easier ways to load four rounds in a clip . I learned from guys eaten meals and slept with them rifles .