Pro-tip: if it’s at all warm outside put the new belt out in the sun for an hour or more. It will expand and become more pliable and putting it on will be less of an issue
Sweet Project Cars channel suggests putting the new belt in the oven at 200 degrees to soften it up -- works for those of us up north who only see the sun during the summer months.
I debated putting this out on the second channel, but figured that it's polished enough to be here. I'll put un-polished vids on the second channel (lazerlord20) and more put-together ones here, even if the topic is not exactly what you're expecting.
Picked up a BANDO 6PK1095 (equivalent to the Gates K060431) online and it did not fit at all like MANY websites said it would. Even after 30 minutes in the oven at 200F, the belt was still not expanded enough to fit on my 2015 Fit. I ended up holding the original and the Bando side-by-side and it was very clear that the original was slightly larger even when I held both in tension with my hands. One trip to O'Reilly's later and I had a Gates K060435 belt, which is 3/8" longer than the Gates K060431 belt (44-1/8" vs 43-3/4"). It took me about 30 seconds to put on, and the tensioner is still putting quite a lot of pressure on that belt. To be honest, I would not be surprised if that was the size of the old and cracked belt I was replacing. I'll update later on if anyone is curious how well this goes for me say, 1 month, 6 months, or a year from now. Just reply to me and I'll get a notification. Thanks for the helpful video LazerLord10! Edit: Forgot to mention for those curious: I knew my belt needed replacement when it started squealing on the first start in the morning when it was cold or humid outside. The belt ribs were also visibly cracked in many places.
Hi there. In the description you mention you did this because you were experiencing a weird sound. Did you hear a chirping noise when accelerating on a hill at around 1800 to 2500 RPM. I'm hearing that noise inside the car coming from the engine bay when driving uphill. It goes away as soon as I release the gas. It comes and disappears at it's own will. I thought my idler pulley bearing was gone as I could hear it coming from the tensioner pulley using an electronic stethoscope. Do you have any ideas what could be the source of this sound. It's so annoying. Please help.
given that it is only on throttle, I need to ask which transmission you have (manual or CVT). If CVT, that has a service interval of approximately 30-60k miles. If you haven't changed out the CVT fluid, things might go weird. I don't think I can help you more than that, though.
I've got a high-pitched intermittent squeaking that I'm 95% sure is coming from the belt area. Would it make sense that a failing bearing might cause that kind of noise? The car is a 2014 so maybe it's time to replace them regardless
If the tensionor is not vibrating while engine is running and it stays rock solid, it is in good condition and no need to replace. Study the old belt and look for any wear on the side and any rubber residue in the grooves. Mine had a worn stiching on the sides and the gooves had shiny bits of rubber that melted and resolidified. I recommend to check all the pulleys. On my jazz water pulley is a bit stiff and doesnt roll well. Probably i have a failing water pump because i also have the heater not heating the interior very well.
Definitely "back yard stuff as you should really use bearing tools to remove and install bearings. Hitting chrome sockets? Guess you can do that if you buy low quality tools likes most of the hardware stores offer. Would suggest wearing goggles if you have to do this. I am an ASE Master Technician with 43 years experience.
To the pulley itself? It is unlikely to get damaged in an operation like this unless the bearing is exceedingly stuck, in which case you should get a new pulley anyway. I recommend getting the pulley+bearing as one unit if you can. The extra money is worth not dealing with the hassle of pressing a bearing.
I was going to buy the pully only but the car part stores sell it as part of the whole tensioner. My tensionor is good but the bearing on this pulley is bad. I went for the good quality bearing as you suggested. The pulley with bearing option is only avalanbe from china which i don't trust. Thanks anyway. Good job for uploading this video.
It's rather tricky to do because of the lack of stretch in the new belt. The best way I found is to get it over all of the pulleys except for the largest one (that you can get to easily). Start that on one edge and work the belt on at an angle, and make sure the tensioner is fully released by pulling on that long wrench connected to that tensioning pulley (same as the position as when you needed to take it off).
Oh, and Briang2981 suggested: "Pro-tip: if it’s at all warm outside put the new belt out in the sun for an hour or more. It will expand and become more pliable and putting it on will be less of an issue" Maybe hitting it with a hair drier can do that too, as I imagine you are having these issues due to winter weather.
oh, that's something different. I think it's the VTC actuator? Or comething like that? I forget the name, but it's not related to the serpentine belt, most likely. Apparently it's a normal thing these engines do.
I took mine to Honda dealership for a thorough check on the pulley system and the belt but they said it's just normal. They couldn't find anything wrong after 2 days of diagnosing. Mine wears the belt on shoulders as the thread stitching is worn at some spots. I can't stop thinking there's something wrong. Even The new belt is being worn on the sides. I changed belt and bearing on the idler pulley but the chirping/ squealing noise is still there.
If you look under the hood and can't find the two obvious bolts that hold it in, I can't help you. Once you get past the basics of car repair, a lot of things need to come from intuition and looking at how a system works. There isn't always a step-by-step manual showing you what to do.
@@LazerLord10 So you edited your comment to tone it down, but you still have no idea why I watch videos of an upcoming job even if I am very good at car repair. All I need to know is if bolts are accessible, anything I need to know about the job (interference, etc), and what tools are needed. And half the time Haynes forgets a torque spec for a critical bolt. I am not here for cat videos and sponsored links!
@@nameredacted1242 Sorry I didn't include it, and also for my harshness. I didn't find any torque specs for those two bolts. They aren't hard to reach with normal tools (I think I just used a normal ratchet). For these bolts, a torque spec wouldn't be entirely necessary given that there are no gaskets involved. I wish I could find a manual for this car so I could actually know what I'm doing. This video was edited very quickly, and I guess I left some things out/didn't film everything. Next time I make a video about this, I'll try to be more verbose. Thanks for the feedback!
Pro-tip: if it’s at all warm outside put the new belt out in the sun for an hour or more. It will expand and become more pliable and putting it on will be less of an issue
Sweet Project Cars channel suggests putting the new belt in the oven at 200 degrees to soften it up -- works for those of us up north who only see the sun during the summer months.
I don’t even need to do this but it’s still interesting
I'm glad you like it!
I debated putting this out on the second channel, but figured that it's polished enough to be here. I'll put un-polished vids on the second channel (lazerlord20) and more put-together ones here, even if the topic is not exactly what you're expecting.
I appreciate the video. It’s very helpful for us 3rd generation Honda Fit owners.
Picked up a BANDO 6PK1095 (equivalent to the Gates K060431) online and it did not fit at all like MANY websites said it would. Even after 30 minutes in the oven at 200F, the belt was still not expanded enough to fit on my 2015 Fit. I ended up holding the original and the Bando side-by-side and it was very clear that the original was slightly larger even when I held both in tension with my hands. One trip to O'Reilly's later and I had a Gates K060435 belt, which is 3/8" longer than the Gates K060431 belt (44-1/8" vs 43-3/4"). It took me about 30 seconds to put on, and the tensioner is still putting quite a lot of pressure on that belt. To be honest, I would not be surprised if that was the size of the old and cracked belt I was replacing. I'll update later on if anyone is curious how well this goes for me say, 1 month, 6 months, or a year from now. Just reply to me and I'll get a notification. Thanks for the helpful video LazerLord10!
Edit: Forgot to mention for those curious: I knew my belt needed replacement when it started squealing on the first start in the morning when it was cold or humid outside. The belt ribs were also visibly cracked in many places.
How is it holding, my belt is quite cracked and wanted to replace got the belt from oreilly and it doesnt fit am looking to go this route
@Luis what did you end up doing?
@@alabaster4263 I did the same thing he did
The bearing should be torque 44nm , two 8mm 1.25 bolts 22nm to 24 nm ,thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the info!
I have no idea what you are doing but it looks and sounds cool as hell
I know you said you will never record minecraft again. But I miss the timelapses. So I wanna ask if you can maybe record it again :).
There is a pin hole to hold the pulleys in place so you can slide the belt you can use an Allen key
Can you provide the part number for the belt and also tensional, thank you.
pro tip: leave belt in the sun or on dash before installing - heat will help expand the belt
I like this video. Well thought out sequence of instructions. Thank you.
You don't say what size socket you used to release the tension belt? It's 17mm FYI :-)
How could I forget!! Serpentine belt tools typically come with common socket sizes for them and I just used one that worked lol.
@@LazerLord10 No worries - thank you for the video it was very helpful. It's a bitch getting the new belt on! LOL
Thank you for your great information from Thailand.
I like how you skipped removing the bolt from the pulley
Put fixture in vise, use wrench to remove.
Hi there. In the description you mention you did this because you were experiencing a weird sound. Did you hear a chirping noise when accelerating on a hill at around 1800 to 2500 RPM.
I'm hearing that noise inside the car coming from the engine bay when driving uphill. It goes away as soon as I release the gas. It comes and disappears at it's own will. I thought my idler pulley bearing was gone as I could hear it coming from the tensioner pulley using an electronic stethoscope. Do you have any ideas what could be the source of this sound. It's so annoying. Please help.
given that it is only on throttle, I need to ask which transmission you have (manual or CVT). If CVT, that has a service interval of approximately 30-60k miles. If you haven't changed out the CVT fluid, things might go weird.
I don't think I can help you more than that, though.
I have a manual transmission
I've got a high-pitched intermittent squeaking that I'm 95% sure is coming from the belt area. Would it make sense that a failing bearing might cause that kind of noise?
The car is a 2014 so maybe it's time to replace them regardless
what did you end up doing? Im having the same problem since last week and im thinking on replacing the belt
@@diecubo Replaced the belt, but there's still some kind of noise. Might be a bearing issue after all, haven't successfully diagnosed it
@@TheNewFlesh did you figure it out mine just started doing it
@Alabaster I think it's the tensioner, but I'm just tolerating the noise at this point. Replaced the belt but it didn't help
If the tensionor is not vibrating while engine is running and it stays rock solid, it is in good condition and no need to replace. Study the old belt and look for any wear on the side and any rubber residue in the grooves. Mine had a worn stiching on the sides and the gooves had shiny bits of rubber that melted and resolidified. I recommend to check all the pulleys. On my jazz water pulley is a bit stiff and doesnt roll well. Probably i have a failing water pump because i also have the heater not heating the interior very well.
Definitely "back yard stuff as you should really use bearing tools to remove and install bearings. Hitting chrome sockets? Guess you can do that if you buy low quality tools likes most of the hardware stores offer. Would suggest wearing goggles if you have to do this. I am an ASE Master Technician with 43 years experience.
Do you recommend any special tool to avoid any damage to the bearing or the pulley. Please
To the pulley itself? It is unlikely to get damaged in an operation like this unless the bearing is exceedingly stuck, in which case you should get a new pulley anyway.
I recommend getting the pulley+bearing as one unit if you can. The extra money is worth not dealing with the hassle of pressing a bearing.
I was going to buy the pully only but the car part stores sell it as part of the whole tensioner. My tensionor is good but the bearing on this pulley is bad. I went for the good quality bearing as you suggested. The pulley with bearing option is only avalanbe from china which i don't trust. Thanks anyway. Good job for uploading this video.
How did you get the new belt on? I have the 2015 Honda fit and I cannot get the new belt to go on.
It's rather tricky to do because of the lack of stretch in the new belt. The best way I found is to get it over all of the pulleys except for the largest one (that you can get to easily). Start that on one edge and work the belt on at an angle, and make sure the tensioner is fully released by pulling on that long wrench connected to that tensioning pulley (same as the position as when you needed to take it off).
Oh, and Briang2981 suggested:
"Pro-tip: if it’s at all warm outside put the new belt out in the sun for an hour or more. It will expand and become more pliable and putting it on will be less of an issue"
Maybe hitting it with a hair drier can do that too, as I imagine you are having these issues due to winter weather.
Brake pads next!
they aren't worn out yet but they're getting close!!
Do you know the torque specs for the two belt tensioner bolts?
the tensioner assembly was like 25$ on amazon lol. but nice now i know how.
huh, must've missed that listing. I'd go for that option, honestly. Less work and probably better long-term reliability (assuming it was made right).
@@LazerLord10 the review on it says its exactly the same as the OEM one. and it looks exactly the same as your video.
This is very interesting
What was the part number for just the bearing?
It's a 6203 sized deep-groove ball bearing, whose listing is in the video description!
Hello lazerlord10!
Did you car stop making the loud noise?
oh, that's something different. I think it's the VTC actuator? Or comething like that? I forget the name, but it's not related to the serpentine belt, most likely. Apparently it's a normal thing these engines do.
I took mine to Honda dealership for a thorough check on the pulley system and the belt but they said it's just normal. They couldn't find anything wrong after 2 days of diagnosing.
Mine wears the belt on shoulders as the thread stitching is worn at some spots. I can't stop thinking there's something wrong. Even The new belt is being worn on the sides. I changed belt and bearing on the idler pulley but the chirping/ squealing noise is still there.
interesting
Stupid video! The most important part of bolts removal and installation was not covered!
If you look under the hood and can't find the two obvious bolts that hold it in, I can't help you. Once you get past the basics of car repair, a lot of things need to come from intuition and looking at how a system works. There isn't always a step-by-step manual showing you what to do.
@@LazerLord10 So you edited your comment to tone it down, but you still have no idea why I watch videos of an upcoming job even if I am very good at car repair. All I need to know is if bolts are accessible, anything I need to know about the job (interference, etc), and what tools are needed. And half the time Haynes forgets a torque spec for a critical bolt. I am not here for cat videos and sponsored links!
@@nameredacted1242 Sorry I didn't include it, and also for my harshness.
I didn't find any torque specs for those two bolts. They aren't hard to reach with normal tools (I think I just used a normal ratchet). For these bolts, a torque spec wouldn't be entirely necessary given that there are no gaskets involved. I wish I could find a manual for this car so I could actually know what I'm doing. This video was edited very quickly, and I guess I left some things out/didn't film everything. Next time I make a video about this, I'll try to be more verbose. Thanks for the feedback!
Lefty Loosey and Righty Tighty works most the time. Give that a try.
Pulley nut is 42NM. The smaller bolts on the tensioner are 22 to 24NM.