You forgot to mention a VERY important thing that you MUST pump the brake pedal BEFORE you take it out on the road to push the caliper piston tight against the pads, I know someone who forgot to do this, no brakes!!! Smashed the car:(( Thanks for the video:)
Long reply I know but he didn't forget. He said to have someone press the brake pedal so you can tighten to locating screw without the disc moving. This will do what you're saying.
New to your Channel. Greetings from Canada. Glad to see some useful videos on UA-cam. Just a quick question how much difference is this car model to VW Jetta from 2012-2015?
ur video is very helpful, I have Nissan Micra, and needed to change front brake pads, and disks. Service said 180 euro. I said them f*ck off..... I bought myself online from France 2 brake dsiks just only for 16 euro and 10 euro pads set. Postage is 7 evro. So total is 33 euro instead 180 euro. Then watched ur video and changed myself, and it was so easy... it took me just an hour, and pass NCT...))).... thanks for the video.
Excellent how to video. If my intention is to just take the disc out, can I just remove the whole caliper carrier so that disc can be dismantled? (without touching the guide pins and all) my intention is to take the discs to a nearby Lathe, to get them skimmed (polished)
Wow. You did that SO easily. Lol. While my brake disc retaining screw is refusing to come out and I'm facing hundreds of pounds worth of part changes. Yay! -_-
+Jessica Peck You could have used a centre punch hitting same at a 45 degree angle anti clockwise this would shock the screw unseizing same, or maybe a little bit of heat...failing 'partial' drilling out the screw clearance size release the disc hub off the assembly then ye spray release fluid on the exposed studs and use vise grips to extract same......what catches all of us is the taper/ countersinking on these screws.....[ you could get ripped off so take to another mechanic]
Hmmm.Torque wrench settings are different to the Haynes manual and those 16mm carrier bolts are bastards to loosen.Disc rarely comes off that easily due to being rusted on the hub.On the near side pads there is a wear sensor which needs to be removed and re-fitted with care ,athough this is included with the BMW pads.Reality is different to the video but helpful to an extent.
By compressing the calliper piston, you are just pushing some of the fluid back up the line to the reservoir(the reservoir was opened to allow this backflow) As no air entered the circuit (air doesn't get introduced from the surface of fluid in reservoir) therefore there are no air bubbles to bleed out.
I hear some saying that you don't need to open the reservoir to push the piston back in it just let's air in? now you are saying to open it I just want to know which is the right way? when pushing the fluid back up?
@@anytowni6141 The idea is that by opening the cap you prevent any pressure caused by pushing the piston back in from blowing the cap off. I have seen a number of people who always do this and others that don't . However, with those who have not I have never witnessed the pressure to cause the cap to blow off. But if you ever replace any pads I would advise taking the cap off as it is better to be safe than sorry. Don't leave the cap off for to long though as brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb the moisture out of the air meaning it will need replacing. Hope this helps answer your question :)
1. You should of put the car in gear to stop the wheel turning. 2. New brake disks come with a anti rust compound on them and need to be cleaned with petrol or brake clean otherwise when you brake the disks will smoke like Thomas the tank engine :P
It also helps to spray the new disc with brake cleaner and wipe it before installing to get rid of all oils and dirt.
You forgot to mention a VERY important thing that you MUST pump the brake pedal BEFORE you take it out on the road to push the caliper piston tight against the pads, I know someone who forgot to do this, no brakes!!! Smashed the car:(( Thanks for the video:)
Long reply I know but he didn't forget. He said to have someone press the brake pedal so you can tighten to locating screw without the disc moving. This will do what you're saying.
I wish I could be arsed to do this myself!
@Princeton Jaxtyn can she fix my brake discs?
Great video. I got a question. No clear grease on guide pins?
Thank you, very informative, works for me.
Don't you check for lateral run out on the disc (with a dial gauge), to make sure it's mounted correctly, after fitting it, before fitting the wheel?
4:00 Don't you check for lateral run out on the hub (with a dial gauge), to make sure it's flat, after cleaning it, before fitting the disc?
This is a fantastic video.
thanks for the thorough reply
A very good video for most of us.
New to your Channel. Greetings from Canada. Glad to see some useful videos on UA-cam. Just a quick question how much difference is this car model to VW Jetta from 2012-2015?
+MicksGarage1 The video is marked as Private and could not be viewed.
ur video is very helpful, I have Nissan Micra, and needed to change front brake pads, and disks. Service said 180 euro. I said them f*ck off..... I bought myself online from France 2 brake dsiks just only for 16 euro and 10 euro pads set. Postage is 7 evro. So total is 33 euro instead 180 euro. Then watched ur video and changed myself, and it was so easy... it took me just an hour, and pass NCT...))).... thanks for the video.
Excellent how to video.
If my intention is to just take the disc out, can I just remove the whole caliper carrier so that disc can be dismantled? (without touching the guide pins and all) my intention is to take the discs to a nearby Lathe, to get them skimmed (polished)
Nice job done
good !
Thanks!
Wow. You did that SO easily. Lol. While my brake disc retaining screw is refusing to come out and I'm facing hundreds of pounds worth of part changes. Yay! -_-
+Jessica Peck You could have used a centre punch hitting same at a 45 degree angle anti clockwise this would shock the screw unseizing same, or maybe a little bit of heat...failing 'partial' drilling out the screw clearance size release the disc hub off the assembly then ye spray release fluid on the exposed studs and use vise grips to extract same......what catches all of us is the taper/ countersinking on these screws.....[ you could get ripped off so take to another mechanic]
great videos
Great Video!
Great video mate.
Hmmm.Torque wrench settings are different to the Haynes manual and those 16mm carrier bolts are bastards to loosen.Disc rarely comes off that easily due to being rusted on the hub.On the near side pads there is a wear sensor which needs to be removed and re-fitted with care ,athough this is included with the BMW pads.Reality is different to the video but helpful to an extent.
Great and fast video. Like it
Nice job Sir
You shuold but copper grease or brake pad grease on the two ends of the pads and you can also squeeze the Pistons back with big waterpump pliers
Yes, @MicksGarage1, are there any disadvantages of this?
Good stuff
Would the breaklight sensor cables need replacing to reset the breaks indicator on the computer ?
This is where mechanics/car enthusiasts come to troll
V good video! only thing is might be wise to add safety info at the start, especially with brake dust etc..jacking..
Nice review. Please what anti seize grease did you use on this occasion?
Cera Tec
The sliders or guides, should be cleaned and lubrictaed before putting back in, to stop the caliper seizing.
Dan R thanks for the advise this willl help with my next break job
How much for golf 5 1.4 petrol
does opening the reservoir not introduce air into the system?
No! Unless you keep pumping till the reservoir is empty.
No
Dear friend, as you consider the quality of these brake discs? Are good?
Its very good video, congratulations !!
Big hug !!
No mention of bedding in
Do you need to bleed the brakes after fitting front pads
By compressing the calliper piston, you are just pushing some of the fluid back up the line to the reservoir(the reservoir was opened to allow this backflow) As no air entered the circuit (air doesn't get introduced from the surface of fluid in reservoir) therefore there are no air bubbles to bleed out.
I hear some saying that you don't need to open the reservoir to push the piston back in it just let's air in? now you are saying to open it I just want to know which is the right way? when pushing the fluid back up?
@@anytowni6141 The idea is that by opening the cap you prevent any pressure caused by pushing the piston back in from blowing the cap off. I have seen a number of people who always do this and others that don't . However, with those who have not I have never witnessed the pressure to cause the cap to blow off. But if you ever replace any pads I would advise taking the cap off as it is better to be safe than sorry. Don't leave the cap off for to long though as brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb the moisture out of the air meaning it will need replacing. Hope this helps answer your question :)
@@danr9949 This is correct.
so at what point do you clean the disks with brake cleaner. disks have wax oil on to stop rust, you didn't explain that
Not all discs do
Some have oil, some are just painted
I would have used the wire brush on the caliper as well while I'm at it....just saying.Nice tutorial thou.
That angle wasn’t the best but that was probably the best you could do
1. You should of put the car in gear to stop the wheel turning.
2. New brake disks come with a anti rust compound on them and need to be cleaned with petrol or brake clean otherwise when you brake the disks will smoke like Thomas the tank engine :P
It's rear wheel drive. How would putting it in gear stop the wheel from turning??
:)
You beat me to it about the brake cleaner!
Copper grease
The code does not work this is scam for you to do some impulsive buying!!!
Fvu no sung chet hai nguoi o chung cu alhambra califoraia
U
can you think of another word apart from persuade.
@ @xwww5
Can you think of something better to do with your time than moan about this chaps good video