I did this work today. However, I thought I had the earth cable attached which I hadn’t. I can Inform everyone that I could not start the car, some relay in the driving compartment flipped like crazy, the turbo charging meter was living its own life and the cooling fans turned on and off. It took a while for me to figure out this strange behavior until it hit me to check that earth cable. It was not attached. I screwed it down and the car functioned flawlessly again. So the earth cable attached to the thermostat housing is a very important part indeed.
0:16 - 23:00 regardless if there’s not that many saabs out here in america, the fact is that saab still around thriving regardless the amount there’s out in the street here in usa or in Sweden. Good video btw
Great video, thanks! Changed my thermostat today and got the engine temperature back to normal again. I actually did not remove any items from the engine bay (battery etc.). Also did not detach the coolant hose. The location is a bit tight but this can be done by draining the coolant and then simply removing the four bolts. The coolant hose will have enough play so that the thermostat can be removed and replaced.
Well done once again. Keep up the good work. I will be waiting you video on open SID and all the relevant info. Also some info from my own experience during a trip last November. My genuine Saab thermostat stuck in a semi-close position. During that trip I was using the torque pro application and I observed an inconsistent and rising temperature. The temperature rose above 105 Celsius while I was travelling at around 160 kph. However the temp gauge in the dash kept pointing in the middle position. It was when the temperature rose above 115 Celsius that the dash gauge started to move from the middle position. At that point I reduced my speed to 100 kph to keep the airflow in the radiator and opened the cabin heat to maximum in order to make it work as a second radiator. Thank god it was November. I immediately noticed a reduction in coolant temperature. It dropped to normal readings 85-95 Celsius and that way I managed to return home and to save the engine from possible meltdown. Another point I want to mention is that after the rise of the temperature beyond 105 Celsius the second radiator fan came on in an effort to lower the temperature of the coolant. So remember, if your thermostat stuck in a close position, in order to avoid overheat, open you cabin heater to maximum.
Good that you have a keen eye on the coolant. As it says in WIS, it turns on maximum cooling fans at 105C if driving at high speed, and the system boils at around 120. So you were probably safe, but good that you got a new thermostat.
Trionic Seven Not only I got a new thermostat, I also changed the coolant temperature sensor. Also since it was a coolant overheat issue, I also changed the oil and filter and the autogearbox oil. The autogearbox oil is cooled via the radiator coolant. All done just to be on the safe side of things. Better safe than sorry.
For speeding up the engine warmup prosess, you can put the heater to the maximum, but turn down the fan to minimum or even off. The heatercore will still circulate even if the fan is not running as long as it is set to all the way hot. The interior fan will cool the engine if running on high speed. Especially on a really cold day.
Will do this job on my 9-5 on Tuesday, so will have a good look on this video. My waterpump broke shortly after I bought it, but the seller is covering the water pump for me. Finally got my 9-5, and broke soon after so a little dissapointed. My 9-5 is a lovely 2.3T SE with 185 bhp, cream leather interior with ventilated seats.
Nice that the seller fixes the water pump. While he/she is at it, changing the thermostat is quite easy as you don't need to drain the coolant again. I'd pay the seller to replace the thermostat :) Nice to see a car with ventilated seats, not that common!
I've replaced the more difficult hose clamps with common screw type hose clamps, for ease of maintenance. I only need to be careful not to over tighten them. I didn't want to risk breaking the plastic drain, which often happens. So, I remove the lower radiator hose, which also drains the coolant very quickly. The biggest difficulty is the clamp, which is another extremely hard to access clamp, but now is replaced with a screw type clamp. My T5 93 also bleeds and drains very thoroughly by itself. There is probably a slight amount of water left in the block, which might be why your coolant was a little weak. In other cars you can't even drain the block, so flushing is a long affair of dilution, finishing by adding pure coolant to mix with the water left in the engine. So Saab owners have it easy. I recommend using purified or distilled water for flushing or mixing with coolant. I am not afraid to use a chemical coolant system cleaner (from a bottle), which is drained out after use, but it takes a long time to heat and cool the engine. I don't think the Saab has to warm up completely, because of the bleed feature, which can make the process much faster. If hot, it's important to let the engine cool down before draining and refilling. Materials are often stressed by rapid cooling. According to people on the Saab forums, Wahler was a Saab supplier of thermostats. I found the oem hard to find and used one, and it works well. Cheap thermostats from regular parts stores opened too late after the engine was too hot, and immediately dumped cold water through the engine making it too cold. It could even repeat the cycle, bouncing. It was very bad. The Wahler opens gradually, and the engine cools immediately only 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Very reasonable. There are 3 or 4 temperature ranges available. For my older T5 running in a warmer climate, I went to the coldest temp to extend longevity of the motor and get a little more power through cooler intake. I even found a convenient location to add a removable shunt resistor across the fan thermostat so the fan-on temp is tuned to the cooler thermostat. I posted the procedure at Saab central if anyone is interested. Many early T7 engines had an oil sludging issue due to a change in the pistons and rings, so those cars should possibly run with full temperature thermostats to control moisture. Or be monitored carefully. There are many choices of anti-freeze here. There is cheap toxic coolant. There is expensive long life toxic coolant. There is cheap non-toxic coolant, and expensive long-life non-toxic coolant! I recommend cheap non-toxic coolant, and changing it often such as every year. The engine corrodes, the coolant gets dirty fast, the radiator and water pump suffer. There is an American company, Amsoil, that makes a unique antifreeze that is fully organic acid. Super long life. It's expensive but that's what I've used with the hope it can safely stay in the engine for many years. Other coolants, I would not trust for more than a year, but I'm probably over cautious.
1) I have never had a problem finding OEM parts and thermostats. 2) I am skeptical to your recommendation to not use a glycole-based coolant as a bad coolant can damage the engine 3) The maintenance interval specifies when the coolant is supposed to be changed, no need to overdo it.
All coolant I know of is glycol based. Of those, there are traditional ethylene glycol (toxic) and propylene glycol (less toxic but 100% as functional). These are typically balanced with non-organic acids as corrosion inhibitors. Then there are partial organic acid balanced versions of both for longer life (Toyota red long life, Mercedes). Amsoil makes a fully organic acid balanced non-toxic for ultra long life (lowest corrosion).
hey! Good video.... I have a Saab 9-5 aero hot 2001. it has served me well and these videos help a lot as the problems that occur with this car are as always common ones lol.
I am watching this video as referance to do this operation this weekend in my 2001 9-5. I am wondering- maybe I will skip the step where you detatch the hose. And the drain plug thing. Just go straight in with a wrench🙂
@@scotthardy6485 It’s been a year, but still. Pretty sure some type of ironically shifted humor was intended here. However, fact is I got a mechanic to do it. It was too cold and I did not find my gloves. It runs fine, now.
Cool video bro ,I have a question I have a 2005 saab 9-3 ,right now the top rubber hose is leaking out going to the coolant reservoir you think i need to replace the thermostat?
Nice vid, but just thinking. I'm using a thermostat from speedparts, don't sure if it's OEM or what, but it works just like i should, same as my old 9-5 and works great there too, so not all of these aftermarked thermostat's seems to don't work. I did not know about that the hole should be pointed up when fitting the thermostat, not sure where mine is pointing, but works like it should :)
Experience has shown that the aftermarket ones don't last as long, just as what happened here. Also, if you don't put the bleeder hole upwards you might get air bubbles in the coolant system leading to hotspots and overheating.
Hi Johnathan! I love your videos and I really appreciate them. I want to know when will you be doing a how to use and read open sid on Saab. I just got a stage 2 tune on my 2004 9-5 arc and I would love to know how to switch between the three engine modes. thank you Johnathan!
It's on the todo list, however recently work has taken the entirety of my awake time so I have had less time for videos lately. Hopefully I'll come back to do more soon!
I believe I damaged the belt when I was troubleshooting something else back in June. This damage then caused the failure in August. I followed my own instruction video for belt replacement.
Why must you jack the car? Or just easier to access everything? Also how would you recommend removing the plastic cap at the bottom of the radiator to drain coolant? Thanks
I have to disagree. Yesterday I flushed cooling system in my 9-5 Aero '02. I reached the plug from above, through the engine compartmend. To open the plug for the first time in a while, You will need some pliers. Next time will be easier, so you can do by hand. No jack stand, no jack whatsoever. Just a catch can flat enough to slide it under the car.
yes MR SAAB! good to see your new video as informative and usefull as ever! may I ask how you have open SID on the 9-5 is it a dealer specific thing? I live in Dorset in the UK and saab specialists are as rare as chickens teeth!! :)
hello, your videos have helped me so much thanks keep up the good work. I have one questions what type of coolant should I use? i have 2002 Saab 9-5 linear model I'm not sure if I'm using the right kind it's keeps leaking? I use peneofrost, the pink kind. my manual does not say what type and I can't really get a right answer
Beror på årsmodell. Viktigt är att olika sorter ej tål att blandas. Är du minsta osäker, skölj ordentligt med vatten någon gång eller två innan du fyller nytt.
Hej och åter stor tack för en informativ och pedagogisk film. Du är till stor hjälp för oss i Saab världen :-)Jag har läckage av kylarvätska vid termostathuset och tänkte passa på att byta ut termostaten/packningen samtidigt.Saabparts har två varianter en 82 och en 89 grader. Vet du vilken jag ska införskaffa? Jag har en 2,3 l Aero från -05God Jul på dig och din familj.
Ska göra samma jobb på min 9-5 02a vector den kommer inte heller upp i mer än 66 grader i motortemp. Har även satt felkod P0116 när det vart kallt ute och enligt mina googlingar så borde det vara termostaten som är problemet men tycker att jag har för bra värme i bilen för att det skulle vara termostaten som är öppen konstant. Kommer iallafall byta den(original så klart) och tempgivaren i förebyggande syfte när jag ändå håller på med termostaten...
Tror at P0116 är när den inte får upp tempen i tid och varnar för att termostaten är dålig. 66 grader är väldigt kallt, byt snarast! Också ingen dålig ide att skölja kylsystemet.
Trionic Seven den är bytt nu och en sak är säker hade dålig värme i bilen innan nu har man den riktiga Saabvärmen igen. Den gamla termostaten såg lite annorlunda ut mot den nya plus att den mycket riktigt stod öppen när jag fick löst den..
I love your videos. So good! What is your opinion about transmission flushes? I just bought a 2003 9-5 Aero with 90k miles (US), and I don't know if it's ever been done. Sometimes there seems to be hesitation between when I hit the accelerator and when the car wants to actually go, almost like a soft bucking. Also, after coming off freeway exit, stopping, then trying to pick up speed again, sometimes the RPM will increase before the car moves and kicks in. does this sound like transmission fluid change could fix this? Is it advisable to do? Or am I looking at a different problem?
+Kevin Johnston the ecu? that means saab dealer has to reprogram it? any idea on th cost? and the mass airflow sensor, would you clean or replace? Have you seen this fix the issue? I was gonna do spark plugs as well anyway. it's at 90k. what is your opinion, Kevin, on whether or not to change/ flush tranny fluid?
Estevan Vega. Usually the trans fluid will discolour from its nice red when it is in need of change.. I topped my own up and it was fine. you have reasonably low mileage, my own is 170k.... I notice that if the coolant is bad that it can effect the trans also! check that too! your ECU can be just as much to repair as to replace, try used part maybe for that
Hi can you help me .....I have full temperature on the engine .. But my heating is not working ...... Only cold air coming out ... Dining need to change the thermostat
If your temp gauge shows correct temperature it's probably not the thermostat. Perhaps your heater core is clogged, your A/C blend door might be broken.
Trionic Seven thanks for your reply ... I always check your page out for any problems.. I don't have a Sid open ..... I think your right my heater is making a noise ....
I often read on the forums that in addition to replacing the thermostat, the coolant temperature sensor should also be replaced at the same time. I noticed you did not do that. Are the people on the forums just going too far in replacing a part that doesn't need to be replaced? What do you think? I would rather not fix what's not broken but if it's wise to replace it then I will. By the way, excellent video. My car: 07 Saab 9-5
hur satte du igång opensid? har samma bil men kan inte se sånt. Kan du inte göra en video på man bytar bussningar i växellänkaget samt synkar lådan? är ett projekt jag ska göra inom en snar framtid nämligen. Hade varit bra med tips :)
Hej! OpenSID finns inte i alla bilar utan kräver att man laddar in speciell mjukvara i styrboxen. Har en film som heter "Enabling OpenSID", men det är inte helt enkelt och kräver en del specialutrustning.
Har en 9-5 Aero 00 automat. funderar på ett steg 1, den har gått 33 tusen. Är det att rekommendera eller kommer lådan o original turbot att rasa mycket fortare? vet du om automatlådorna i de bilarna tål mycket? tack på förhand 😀 btw dina videos är grymma!
Steg 1 lär inte vara några problem, men det sätter alltid mer press på hårdvaran. Har lådan skötts bra? Automatlådeoljan sköljts när den ska? Välj en seriös trimmare och inte någon skum firma på blocket.
Har själv fått en skräddarsydd steg 1 till min 9-5 aero 2000 automat. Bilen blev piggare och är nu 100gr roligare att köra. Förvänta inte dig en extrem skillnad men absolut en märkbar iallafall. Turbo ras beror helt på turbons skick och hur mycket du pressar den. Konstanta påfrestningar kommer självklart nöta på turbon , men några enstaka omkörningar och buskörningar tror inte jag är någon större fara, förutsatt att du sköter olje byten och låter turbon kyla ner efter användning.
Tack för svaret, steg 1 är inte längre så aktuellt då motorn läcker olja o behöver fyllas på vid varje tankning med ca en halv liter. Men får se fram till sommaren kanske jag har åtgärdat olje problemet o kan trimma lite...
Har en saab 9-5 01 som inte har någon stolsvärme eller värme från kupe, när jag köpte bilen kom det svag värme från från fläkten 1/10 gånger när jag startade bilen, nu kommer det ingenting, bytte värmekranen idag men kommer fortfarande ingen värme, nu när jag såg denna videon kom jag på att min termostat visaren också står vid kl 7-8, tror du att det att det kan vara felet? tacksam för svar, bra vids!
Lyckades fixa problemet, märkte att vakum ventilen (kopplat till värme kranen) inte släppte igenom luften till värmekranen, kopplade då bort vakkumventilen helt och körde direkt till värmekranen. jag kan till och med ställa innen värmen via displayen vilket jag trodde vakum ventilen styrde. frågan nu är vad gör vakum ventilen (tror den heter nått sånt) som satt ihop med värmekranen då den va kopplad med el?
How the hell does one drive a car 5,000km in a year? I'm not sure I'd even need a car if I only traveled that far annually. Love your vids though. I'm actually just jealous, I'd love to see how long a car could last driving 5000km every year.
Haha, yep, 5k is very little in a year. It's just the wife's drive-to-work-car, but lately we've taken that on longer trips instead of mine just to get it exercised a bit more. :)
Well obviously the oem is prone to failure since your replacing . Stop JUST STOP trying to fatten pockets of big automakers like gm . They have no reason to charge the price for the parts they do when aftermarket is just as good ifnot better as they've been improved over time
I did this work today.
However, I thought I had the earth cable attached which I hadn’t.
I can Inform everyone that I could not start the car, some relay in the driving compartment flipped like crazy, the turbo charging meter was living its own life and the cooling fans turned on and off.
It took a while for me to figure out this strange behavior until it hit me to check that earth cable.
It was not attached.
I screwed it down and the car functioned flawlessly again.
So the earth cable attached to the thermostat housing is a very important part indeed.
0:16 - 23:00 regardless if there’s not that many saabs out here in america, the fact is that saab still around thriving regardless the amount there’s out in the street here in usa or in Sweden. Good video btw
Great video, thanks! Changed my thermostat today and got the engine temperature back to normal again. I actually did not remove any items from the engine bay (battery etc.). Also did not detach the coolant hose. The location is a bit tight but this can be done by draining the coolant and then simply removing the four bolts. The coolant hose will have enough play so that the thermostat can be removed and replaced.
Thanks for sharing :)
Best Saab mechanic channel on YT. Nice work
Well done once again. Keep up the good work.
I will be waiting you video on open SID and all the relevant info.
Also some info from my own experience during a trip last November.
My genuine Saab thermostat stuck in a semi-close position. During that trip I was using the torque pro application and I observed an inconsistent and rising temperature. The temperature rose above 105 Celsius while I was travelling at around 160 kph. However the temp gauge in the dash kept pointing in the middle position. It was when the temperature rose above 115 Celsius that the dash gauge started to move from the middle position. At that point I reduced my speed to 100 kph to keep the airflow in the radiator and opened the cabin heat to maximum in order to make it work as a second radiator. Thank god it was November. I immediately noticed a reduction in coolant temperature. It dropped to normal readings 85-95 Celsius and that way I managed to return home and to save the engine from possible meltdown. Another point I want to mention is that after the rise of the temperature beyond 105 Celsius the second radiator fan came on in an effort to lower the temperature of the coolant. So remember, if your thermostat stuck in a close position, in order to avoid overheat, open you cabin heater to maximum.
Good that you have a keen eye on the coolant. As it says in WIS, it turns on maximum cooling fans at 105C if driving at high speed, and the system boils at around 120. So you were probably safe, but good that you got a new thermostat.
Trionic Seven Not only I got a new thermostat, I also changed the coolant temperature sensor. Also since it was a coolant overheat issue, I also changed the oil and filter and the autogearbox oil. The autogearbox oil is cooled via the radiator coolant. All done just to be on the safe side of things. Better safe than sorry.
I agree, better safe than sorry. Your car will reward you when you care for it! :)
For speeding up the engine warmup prosess, you can put the heater to the maximum, but turn down the fan to minimum or even off. The heatercore will still circulate even if the fan is not running as long as it is set to all the way hot. The interior fan will cool the engine if running on high speed. Especially on a really cold day.
This was a big help T7 Dank's ! The thermostat just went out in my 02 9-3 se. Took about 30 mins to do the job with your help brother =)
Glad I could help! Now your car is hot again (but I'm sure it's always a hot saab :) )
Hi Jonathan,
I change my 9-5 thermostat last week and did a coolant flush and found your video very useful! Thanks for sharing! Tack
That's great to hear!
Bra video! Ska byta termostat imorgon. Tack för att du lagt ner tid på att göra videon.
Hoppas det funkade bra!
Bytt termostat i 9-5 Aero årsm 2003. Denna videon var till stor hjälp. Keep up the good work :)
Vad kul, det var tanken :)
Its always pleasure to watch your videos, these videos really help when working with own saab!
Happy to help! Keep on saabin'
Will do this job on my 9-5 on Tuesday, so will have a good look on this video.
My waterpump broke shortly after I bought it, but the seller is covering the water pump for me.
Finally got my 9-5, and broke soon after so a little dissapointed. My 9-5 is a lovely 2.3T SE with 185 bhp, cream leather interior with ventilated seats.
Nice that the seller fixes the water pump. While he/she is at it, changing the thermostat is quite easy as you don't need to drain the coolant again. I'd pay the seller to replace the thermostat :)
Nice to see a car with ventilated seats, not that common!
Very informative and helpful as always. Will do a radiator flush in my 9-5 2006 sedan next week. Thermostat still working (knock, knock).
I've replaced the more difficult hose clamps with common screw type hose clamps, for ease of maintenance. I only need to be careful not to over tighten them. I didn't want to risk breaking the plastic drain, which often happens. So, I remove the lower radiator hose, which also drains the coolant very quickly. The biggest difficulty is the clamp, which is another extremely hard to access clamp, but now is replaced with a screw type clamp.
My T5 93 also bleeds and drains very thoroughly by itself. There is probably a slight amount of water left in the block, which might be why your coolant was a little weak. In other cars you can't even drain the block, so flushing is a long affair of dilution, finishing by adding pure coolant to mix with the water left in the engine. So Saab owners have it easy.
I recommend using purified or distilled water for flushing or mixing with coolant. I am not afraid to use a chemical coolant system cleaner (from a bottle), which is drained out after use, but it takes a long time to heat and cool the engine.
I don't think the Saab has to warm up completely, because of the bleed feature, which can make the process much faster. If hot, it's important to let the engine cool down before draining and refilling. Materials are often stressed by rapid cooling.
According to people on the Saab forums, Wahler was a Saab supplier of thermostats. I found the oem hard to find and used one, and it works well. Cheap thermostats from regular parts stores opened too late after the engine was too hot, and immediately dumped cold water through the engine making it too cold. It could even repeat the cycle, bouncing. It was very bad.
The Wahler opens gradually, and the engine cools immediately only 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Very reasonable.
There are 3 or 4 temperature ranges available. For my older T5 running in a warmer climate, I went to the coldest temp to extend longevity of the motor and get a little more power through cooler intake. I even found a convenient location to add a removable shunt resistor across the fan thermostat so the fan-on temp is tuned to the cooler thermostat. I posted the procedure at Saab central if anyone is interested.
Many early T7 engines had an oil sludging issue due to a change in the pistons and rings, so those cars should possibly run with full temperature thermostats to control moisture. Or be monitored carefully.
There are many choices of anti-freeze here. There is cheap toxic coolant. There is expensive long life toxic coolant. There is cheap non-toxic coolant, and expensive long-life non-toxic coolant!
I recommend cheap non-toxic coolant, and changing it often such as every year. The engine corrodes, the coolant gets dirty fast, the radiator and water pump suffer.
There is an American company, Amsoil, that makes a unique antifreeze that is fully organic acid. Super long life. It's expensive but that's what I've used with the hope it can safely stay in the engine for many years. Other coolants, I would not trust for more than a year, but I'm probably over cautious.
1) I have never had a problem finding OEM parts and thermostats.
2) I am skeptical to your recommendation to not use a glycole-based coolant as a bad coolant can damage the engine
3) The maintenance interval specifies when the coolant is supposed to be changed, no need to overdo it.
All coolant I know of is glycol based. Of those, there are traditional ethylene glycol (toxic) and propylene glycol (less toxic but 100% as functional). These are typically balanced with non-organic acids as corrosion inhibitors. Then there are partial organic acid balanced versions of both for longer life (Toyota red long life, Mercedes). Amsoil makes a fully organic acid balanced non-toxic for ultra long life (lowest corrosion).
Glycol is organic ;)
That's a really cool garage space, also never knew the newer saabs bled themselves that's crazy.
I love working on modern saabs :)
hey! Good video.... I have a Saab 9-5 aero hot 2001. it has served me well and these videos help a lot as the problems that occur with this car are as always common ones lol.
Glad I could help. Fixing all those little things makes owning the car so much better!
This Swedish guy speaks very good English. My wife drives 08' 9-5 Aero, I am driving 10' 9-5 Aero.
Thanks, I try to keep up my English! :)
The Aeros are very nice cars.
It’s super cool they offer a shop for people to work on their cars
Very much! And quite affordable, too.
This is freaking awesome .. they got garage like this in Sweden...
Det er nogle fine videoer du filmer. Meget stor hjælp.
Tak. :)
Tack! :)
I am watching this video as referance to do this operation this weekend in my 2001 9-5.
I am wondering- maybe I will skip the step where you detatch the hose.
And the drain plug thing. Just go straight in with a wrench🙂
@@scotthardy6485 It’s been a year, but still. Pretty sure some type of ironically shifted humor was intended here.
However, fact is I got a mechanic to do it. It was too cold and I did not find my gloves.
It runs fine, now.
Another excelent video! Thanks for sharing ;)
Glad you liked it!
Cool video bro ,I have a question I have a 2005 saab 9-3 ,right now the top rubber hose is leaking out going to the coolant reservoir you think i need to replace the thermostat?
Hey! Unfortunately the 05 9-3 is a completely different car than the 9-5, so I can't give any reliable advice, sorry!
Trionic Seven ok then thank you anyways probably need a new the cap
Nice vid, but just thinking.
I'm using a thermostat from speedparts, don't sure if it's OEM or what, but it works just like i should, same as my old 9-5 and works great there too, so not all of these aftermarked thermostat's seems to don't work.
I did not know about that the hole should be pointed up when fitting the thermostat, not sure where mine is pointing, but works like it should :)
Experience has shown that the aftermarket ones don't last as long, just as what happened here. Also, if you don't put the bleeder hole upwards you might get air bubbles in the coolant system leading to hotspots and overheating.
excellent video Jon.. you get public garages to work in?? Cool... Wish we had something like that in the UK..
It's not a public garage, it's a nonprofit started by a bunch of gearheads :)
thanks for the video.is the thermostat position the same in 2002 9-5 vector ?.i am having this same issue with temperature.2.0 b205 engine.
Yep, same position!
thank you sir.great videos.
The coolant reservoir looks really clean.
Did you flushed or cleaned it somehow?
I did an engine wash a while back :)
You are the man, thanks.
Hi Johnathan!
I love your videos and I really appreciate them. I want to know when will you be doing a how to use and read open sid on Saab. I just got a stage 2 tune on my 2004 9-5 arc and I would love to know how to switch between the three engine modes.
thank you Johnathan!
It's on the todo list, however recently work has taken the entirety of my awake time so I have had less time for videos lately. Hopefully I'll come back to do more soon!
As always, thank you very much for your videos!
Glad you like it!
+Trionic Seven är inte säker ifall jag satt nålen uppåt vadhänder ifall den är åt något annat håll?
Are you ever gonna make a video about the belt problem?
Belt problem? You mean from August? I fixed it the day after.
Trionic Seven Awesome, I was just curious about what caused it, might help others when they do the repair.
I believe I damaged the belt when I was troubleshooting something else back in June. This damage then caused the failure in August. I followed my own instruction video for belt replacement.
Why must you jack the car? Or just easier to access everything? Also how would you recommend removing the plastic cap at the bottom of the radiator to drain coolant? Thanks
Jacking up is required to reach the drain plug. As I show in the video, carefully use a pair of pliers and turn the plastic plug.
I have to disagree.
Yesterday I flushed cooling system in my 9-5 Aero '02. I reached the plug from above, through the engine compartmend. To open the plug for the first time in a while, You will need some pliers. Next time will be easier, so you can do by hand.
No jack stand, no jack whatsoever. Just a catch can flat enough to slide it under the car.
Interesting, I never thought that'd be possible. I found it quite difficult to open the plug even when the car was jacked up. Each to his own :)
Very interesting video im starting to love saabs now lol
yes MR SAAB! good to see your new video as informative and usefull as ever! may I ask how you have open SID on the 9-5 is it a dealer specific thing? I live in Dorset in the UK and saab specialists are as rare as chickens teeth!! :)
Check my OpenSID video on this channel!
worse here in Ireland. all is the pity , brilliant car,
hello, your videos have helped me so much thanks keep up the good work. I have one questions what type of coolant should I use? i have 2002 Saab 9-5 linear model I'm not sure if I'm using the right kind it's keeps leaking? I use peneofrost, the pink kind. my manual does not say what type and I can't really get a right answer
From factory your car comes with a monoethylene glycole solution. Any modern brand should work, as long as you flush the system when replacing.
I have a 2004 9.3 Saab and my radiator reservoir is boiling over can you help me diagnose the problem
Sounds like your car is overheating. Ask in our community forum! facebook.com/groups/733705113501723/
Hey, Trionic Seven do you know how to replace the output speed sensor on a 2001 9-5?
Which sensor is this? Wheel speed sensor?
kanon bra video. Vad använde du för glykol? Har varit inne på forumet men fick inget riktigt svar. Funkar biltemas blåa och /eller röda?
Beror på årsmodell. Viktigt är att olika sorter ej tål att blandas. Är du minsta osäker, skölj ordentligt med vatten någon gång eller två innan du fyller nytt.
Trionic Seven Jag har en 2000 års modell
Kan vara blå, men är inte säker. En idé är att köpa från saab återförsäljare så får du rätt
Hej och åter stor tack för en informativ och pedagogisk film. Du är till stor hjälp för oss i Saab världen :-)Jag har läckage av kylarvätska vid termostathuset och tänkte passa på att byta ut termostaten/packningen samtidigt.Saabparts har två varianter en 82 och en 89 grader. Vet du vilken jag ska införskaffa? Jag har en 2,3 l Aero från -05God Jul på dig och din familj.
Hej! Jag rekommenderar original termostat (inte speedparts märke) och då 89 grader. Lycka till! :)
Ska göra samma jobb på min 9-5 02a vector den kommer inte heller upp i mer än 66 grader i motortemp. Har även satt felkod P0116 när det vart kallt ute och enligt mina googlingar så borde det vara termostaten som är problemet men tycker att jag har för bra värme i bilen för att det skulle vara termostaten som är öppen konstant.
Kommer iallafall byta den(original så klart) och tempgivaren i förebyggande syfte när jag ändå håller på med termostaten...
Tror at P0116 är när den inte får upp tempen i tid och varnar för att termostaten är dålig. 66 grader är väldigt kallt, byt snarast! Också ingen dålig ide att skölja kylsystemet.
Trionic Seven den är bytt nu och en sak är säker hade dålig värme i bilen innan nu har man den riktiga Saabvärmen igen.
Den gamla termostaten såg lite annorlunda ut mot den nya plus att den mycket riktigt stod öppen när jag fick löst den..
I love your videos. So good! What is your opinion about transmission flushes? I just bought a 2003 9-5 Aero with 90k miles (US), and I don't know if it's ever been done. Sometimes there seems to be hesitation between when I hit the accelerator and when the car wants to actually go, almost like a soft bucking. Also, after coming off freeway exit, stopping, then trying to pick up speed again, sometimes the RPM will increase before the car moves and kicks in. does this sound like transmission fluid change could fix this? Is it advisable to do? Or am I looking at a different problem?
I'm exclusively driving stick-shift (as is common in Sweden) and have basically no idea about auto trans :) Sorry!
Ok. Thanks anyway
Estevan Vega. it could be the ECU and sparkplugs along with the mass airflow sensor! a good full service should sort it....
+Kevin Johnston the ecu? that means saab dealer has to reprogram it? any idea on th cost? and the mass airflow sensor, would you clean or replace? Have you seen this fix the issue? I was gonna do spark plugs as well anyway. it's at 90k. what is your opinion, Kevin, on whether or not to change/ flush tranny fluid?
Estevan Vega. Usually the trans fluid will discolour from its nice red when it is in need of change.. I topped my own up and it was fine. you have reasonably low mileage, my own is 170k.... I notice that if the coolant is bad that it can effect the trans also! check that too! your ECU can be just as much to repair as to replace, try used part maybe for that
Hi can you help me .....I have full temperature on the engine ..
But my heating is not working ......
Only cold air coming out ...
Dining need to change the thermostat
If your temp gauge shows correct temperature it's probably not the thermostat. Perhaps your heater core is clogged, your A/C blend door might be broken.
Trionic Seven thanks for your reply ...
I always check your page out for any problems..
I don't have a Sid open .....
I think your right my heater is making a noise ....
I often read on the forums that in addition to replacing the thermostat, the coolant temperature sensor should also be replaced at the same time. I noticed you did not do that. Are the people on the forums just going too far in replacing a part that doesn't need to be replaced? What do you think? I would rather not fix what's not broken but if it's wise to replace it then I will. By the way, excellent video. My car: 07 Saab 9-5
Doesn't have to be replaced unless you have a problem with the sensor.
Trionic Seven don't fix what's not broken, gotcha, thanks!
Did you flush with regular tap water or use distilled?
Where I live we have extremely soft water which means I can use regular tap water. If you don't have soft water, I'd recommend distilled water.
Thank you. I'll buy distilled then as our water is the opposite, extremely hard.
Wise. Might want to consider flushing with distilled water (or battery water) too as about 1-1.5L remains after the flush.
hur satte du igång opensid? har samma bil men kan inte se sånt. Kan du inte göra en video på man bytar bussningar i växellänkaget samt synkar lådan? är ett projekt jag ska göra inom en snar framtid nämligen. Hade varit bra med tips :)
Hej! OpenSID finns inte i alla bilar utan kräver att man laddar in speciell mjukvara i styrboxen. Har en film som heter "Enabling OpenSID", men det är inte helt enkelt och kräver en del specialutrustning.
Har en 9-5 Aero 00 automat. funderar på ett steg 1, den har gått 33 tusen. Är det att rekommendera eller kommer lådan o original turbot att rasa mycket fortare? vet du om automatlådorna i de bilarna tål mycket? tack på förhand 😀
btw dina videos är grymma!
Steg 1 lär inte vara några problem, men det sätter alltid mer press på hårdvaran. Har lådan skötts bra? Automatlådeoljan sköljts när den ska? Välj en seriös trimmare och inte någon skum firma på blocket.
Lådan fungerar som den ska, oljan byttes för ca 9tusen mil sedan.
Borde vara OK, men jag är ingen expert
Har själv fått en skräddarsydd steg 1 till min 9-5 aero 2000 automat. Bilen blev piggare och är nu 100gr roligare att köra. Förvänta inte dig en extrem skillnad men absolut en märkbar iallafall. Turbo ras beror helt på turbons skick och hur mycket du pressar den. Konstanta påfrestningar kommer självklart nöta på turbon , men några enstaka omkörningar och buskörningar tror inte jag är någon större fara, förutsatt att du sköter olje byten och låter turbon kyla ner efter användning.
Tack för svaret, steg 1 är inte längre så aktuellt då motorn läcker olja o behöver fyllas på vid varje tankning med ca en halv liter. Men får se fram till sommaren kanske jag har åtgärdat olje problemet o kan trimma lite...
Hur får du fram temperaturen på displayen???
Öppna SID:en
skulle du kunna hjälpa mig o hitta var man kan få tag i det verktyget du hade för slang klämman ? (tången ) ?
mvh. Kimmy Carlsson
www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Ovrigt/Slangklamtang-med-vajer-2000018955/ dock inte helt nöjd med kvaliteten på den.
Kimmy Carlsson Finns på Biltema.
Tusen tack för hjälpen :) du gör ett toppen jobb med dina video klipp, kul o kolla på dom.
Lycka till! Kul att du gillar filmerna :)
Oh, so this version of 9-5 has no turbo gauge ? any info why ?
Yep, it's the 2.0t, so no turbo gauge.
Har en saab 9-5 01 som inte har någon stolsvärme eller värme från kupe, när jag köpte bilen kom det svag värme från från fläkten 1/10 gånger när jag startade bilen, nu kommer det ingenting, bytte värmekranen idag men kommer fortfarande ingen värme, nu när jag såg denna videon kom jag på att min termostat visaren också står vid kl 7-8, tror du att det att det kan vara felet? tacksam för svar, bra vids!
Lyckades fixa problemet, märkte att vakum ventilen (kopplat till värme kranen) inte släppte igenom luften till värmekranen, kopplade då bort vakkumventilen helt och körde direkt till värmekranen. jag kan till och med ställa innen värmen via displayen vilket jag trodde vakum ventilen styrde. frågan nu är vad gör vakum ventilen (tror den heter nått sånt) som satt ihop med värmekranen då den va kopplad med el?
Värmekranen är vakuumstyrd, och den stänger av värmen till värmeväxlaren när AC:n är på. Så mycket mer än så vet jag inte...
USA for the win 2002 9-5 linear :P
Sorry to hear you have to import Swedish cars to have good cars :P
Trionic Seven I actually didn't import it bough it used and it is my first car and I love it :)
Okay I'll bite. What's a creeper called in Swedish?
A derogatory word for the oldest profession ;)
How the hell does one drive a car 5,000km in a year? I'm not sure I'd even need a car if I only traveled that far annually. Love your vids though. I'm actually just jealous, I'd love to see how long a car could last driving 5000km every year.
Haha, yep, 5k is very little in a year. It's just the wife's drive-to-work-car, but lately we've taken that on longer trips instead of mine just to get it exercised a bit more. :)
What are the specifications? Does it not have a turbo? I don't see a turbo gauge in the cluster.
It's a turbo, but the 2.0t doesn't have a gauge.
very interesting! would never have guessed that. if you had to choose another brand of car, what would it be?
I drive my 9-5 for like 1000-1500 km a year :)
Well obviously the oem is prone to failure since your replacing . Stop JUST STOP trying to fatten pockets of big automakers like gm . They have no reason to charge the price for the parts they do when aftermarket is just as good ifnot better as they've been improved over time