As always: Nice video...thanks for that! A question about the probes that you insert into the manifold to measure: Do you use a screwed adapter or do you simply push the copper pipe a few centimeters into the manifold (without further sealing)?
Hi again, Brad. Another great vid on a 1.6 ECU. I never knew about the aftermarket chips not being able to "talk" to the diag tool(s) !!! Thanks for that tip!
any aftermarket eprom based on the fuel injected motorcycles / ultimap megazone system won't talk to the weber / marelli diagnostics. any aftermarket eprom based on the weber / marelli software is fine.
At low RPM and deceleration of throttle I will get exhaust popping. I'm hoping this will solve the issue. And I also noticed there's some slight oil seeping around the hose from under the airbox, and am wondering if that is a result of the same problem?
This is awesome, but for the average joe such as myself who doesn't have an exhaust gas analyzer in their garage what do you suggest for setting the air bleeders?
the air bleeds are to set the idle speed. ffs. the idle mixture is set using the idle trimmer in the ecu. if you don't have a way to measure manifold vacuum, i would set the idle speed as desired with the air bleeds out the same amount. least desirable. if you have a way to measure manifold vacuum i would set the idle speed with the air bleeds set to give the same vacuum on each cylinder. from there, you could adjust the idle trimmer up and down to see if/what difference that makes to the idle speed. it's easier on the 1.6m ecu because twisting a dial gives you more feel in terms of good/bad sort of thing if that make sense. but with the 1.5m or 5xm series, just move the number up or down and see if you can find the points at which it gets crappy rich and lean. generally, whatever those points are, go 1/3 of the way rich from the lean point and that's about 4% co in a very general sense. if the idle speed has changed, redo the air bleeds to get the idle speed you want. happy with the idle speed? good. then i would ride it around for a while and get a feel for it. then, wind one air bleed out 1/8 turn and the other in 1/8. ride it for while. better or worse? better? - go another 1/8 on each. worse? - go back 1/8 on each to the starting point, then 1/8 the other way. better or worse? continue until it feels best.
It's annoying that the voltage affects the co that much. In the 59m there is a voltage correction table that compared to marell injector data is more or less correct, but I've found that for every volt of drop it still need +0,2ms of injection time to come back to the same co value
Brad, another great vid! I learned a lot.... I am still playing with my 2000 Cagiva Gran Canyon, I have it running great at idle and low revs. Per your instructions on TPS settings in Mv. Also, using manometer balanced TB's at idle When I hold it (cruising 2nd, 3rd, 4th) at 3-4K rpm's, it stumbles a bit, but accelerating from 2000 to 6000 rpm's is smooth. If I hit it (hard) to WOT it cuts out to one cylinder at about 7-8k rpm's, but if I roll it out steadily it winds right up to 9k. When I isolate the cylinders by unplugging plug wires, it is smooth with no stumbles on either cylinder. Thoughts?
I don't have sensors to measure exhaust gas. I can smell that it has been very rich, just yesterday I move the trim screw from 4 o'clock to 2 o'clock, it was difficult tell realize any difference, as I only rode about 1 mile. I have been smelling the richness for quite a while.@@bradthebikeboy
I may have omitted important info: Before all of this happened, my regulator/rectifier went out. I replaced it with Roadstercycle FH020AA reg/rect. The charging system is working beautifully, but do you think I may have damaged any electrical components?
@@joeblades is there a requirement for me to be helpful? this video is about tps resetting. asking a tyre question is completely off track and that sort of total irrelevance really annoys me. if you have technical questions, you can email them to me. i much prefer that to this sort of random rubbish. and how vague can you be and still expect a reasonable answer. are you one of those people who complains about bad service everywhere without considering that you're the problem? the info in this video can apply to models of 400, 620, 750, 900 and 944cc. some of those models have a 4.5" rear wheel, and fitting a 180 on this is not recommended. you can do it if you really want to, and the "phat is better" morons would happily do so. but a 4.5 should have a 160. it's pretty easy to find recommended rim widths in tyre catalogues. if you have a 5.5" rear wheel then yes, 180 is good. you'll find that the 170 is actually a bit narrow for the 5.5 in the tyre specs. i expect ducati fitted them to the models they did more in model differentiation than tech spec. so if you asked "can you fit a 180 rear tyre on the back of a xxxx - where xxxx is the specific model you're talking about - then you'd have provided all the necessary info for the question to be answered. but still, imo, in the wrong place.
As always: Nice video...thanks for that!
A question about the probes that you insert into the manifold to measure: Do you use a screwed adapter or do you simply push the copper pipe a few centimeters into the manifold (without further sealing)?
all threaded, with an o-ring under the nut on the inlet.
So useful, for my ST2 , thanks Brad.
That is brilliant, the trouser method is a brake through! Cheers Rich
Hi again, Brad. Another great vid on a 1.6 ECU. I never knew about the aftermarket chips not being able to "talk" to the diag tool(s) !!! Thanks for that tip!
any aftermarket eprom based on the fuel injected motorcycles / ultimap megazone system won't talk to the weber / marelli diagnostics. any aftermarket eprom based on the weber / marelli software is fine.
Moving the EPROM in the video was confusing. Rich/ lean back n forth. Where did the pulse width end up? 11 o'clock??
I learn so much with every video, thank you!
At low RPM and deceleration of throttle I will get exhaust popping. I'm hoping this will solve the issue. And I also noticed there's some slight oil seeping around the hose from under the airbox, and am wondering if that is a result of the same problem?
i can't see any oil having anything to do with popping. sounds like it's just lean.
This is awesome, but for the average joe such as myself who doesn't have an exhaust gas analyzer in their garage what do you suggest for setting the air bleeders?
the air bleeds are to set the idle speed. ffs. the idle mixture is set using the idle trimmer in the ecu. if you don't have a way to measure manifold vacuum, i would set the idle speed as desired with the air bleeds out the same amount. least desirable. if you have a way to measure manifold vacuum i would set the idle speed with the air bleeds set to give the same vacuum on each cylinder. from there, you could adjust the idle trimmer up and down to see if/what difference that makes to the idle speed. it's easier on the 1.6m ecu because twisting a dial gives you more feel in terms of good/bad sort of thing if that make sense. but with the 1.5m or 5xm series, just move the number up or down and see if you can find the points at which it gets crappy rich and lean. generally, whatever those points are, go 1/3 of the way rich from the lean point and that's about 4% co in a very general sense. if the idle speed has changed, redo the air bleeds to get the idle speed you want. happy with the idle speed? good. then i would ride it around for a while and get a feel for it. then, wind one air bleed out 1/8 turn and the other in 1/8. ride it for while. better or worse? better? - go another 1/8 on each. worse? - go back 1/8 on each to the starting point, then 1/8 the other way. better or worse? continue until it feels best.
@@bradthebikeboy I don't think my 800ie has an idle trim in the ecu
@@515moto i can assure you it does.
It's annoying that the voltage affects the co that much. In the 59m there is a voltage correction table that compared to marell injector data is more or less correct, but I've found that for every volt of drop it still need +0,2ms of injection time to come back to the same co value
it's not something i usually see on these, just happened to be a compounding issue.
Brad, another great vid! I learned a lot.... I am still playing with my 2000 Cagiva Gran Canyon, I have it running great at idle and low revs. Per your instructions on TPS settings in Mv.
Also, using manometer balanced TB's at idle
When I hold it (cruising 2nd, 3rd, 4th) at 3-4K rpm's, it stumbles a bit, but accelerating from 2000 to 6000 rpm's is smooth.
If I hit it (hard) to WOT it cuts out to one cylinder at about 7-8k rpm's, but if I roll it out steadily it winds right up to 9k.
When I isolate the cylinders by unplugging plug wires, it is smooth with no stumbles on either cylinder.
Thoughts?
what is the idle mixture set to?
1 1/4 right TB , 1 1/4 left TB I used my homemade manometer
@@johng9323 that's the air bleeds. you set the idle mixture using the trim pot in the ecu - shown at 12:45
I don't have sensors to measure exhaust gas. I can smell that it has been very rich, just yesterday I move the trim screw from 4 o'clock to 2 o'clock, it was difficult tell realize any difference, as I only rode about 1 mile. I have been smelling the richness for quite a while.@@bradthebikeboy
I may have omitted important info: Before all of this happened, my regulator/rectifier went out. I replaced it with Roadstercycle FH020AA reg/rect. The charging system is working beautifully, but do you think I may have damaged any electrical components?
Hi, what do the air bleed screws do when you turn them out again?
as the video and reports say - you use the air bleeds to set the idle speed.
Can u fit a 180/55/17 tire on the back?
and the award for today's randomly irrelevant and vague question goes to this guy.
@@bradthebikeboy lmao great help!
@@joeblades is there a requirement for me to be helpful?
this video is about tps resetting. asking a tyre question is completely off track and that sort of total irrelevance really annoys me. if you have technical questions, you can email them to me. i much prefer that to this sort of random rubbish.
and how vague can you be and still expect a reasonable answer. are you one of those people who complains about bad service everywhere without considering that you're the problem? the info in this video can apply to models of 400, 620, 750, 900 and 944cc. some of those models have a 4.5" rear wheel, and fitting a 180 on this is not recommended. you can do it if you really want to, and the "phat is better" morons would happily do so. but a 4.5 should have a 160. it's pretty easy to find recommended rim widths in tyre catalogues.
if you have a 5.5" rear wheel then yes, 180 is good. you'll find that the 170 is actually a bit narrow for the 5.5 in the tyre specs. i expect ducati fitted them to the models they did more in model differentiation than tech spec.
so if you asked "can you fit a 180 rear tyre on the back of a xxxx - where xxxx is the specific model you're talking about - then you'd have provided all the necessary info for the question to be answered. but still, imo, in the wrong place.
Thanks for this
For God sake, please please tell us more about the awesome Guzzi 1000S 😊
it's a 1000s?
@@bradthebikeboy you name it😊