Just keep in mind to lower the RPM of your lathe Stewart. These are not meant for high speed turning. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck on your project.
Excellent Video! Super comprehensive. I feel after watching this vid, I can confidently make one for my lathe. Thanks a bunch for sharing! Have A Super Blessed Week!.....Gus
TheWoodWerker I'm glad you enjoyed it Gus. I try to make my videos as informative as I can without boring anyone. I'm glad that I succeeded with this one. Good luck on building your set and thanks for dropping me a comment on the show.
This is the best video on home made Cole Jaw Chuck that I have seen. I will definitely make one. BTW for safety it is always a good idea to bring up your tailstock to prevent the bowl from coming loose.
Thanks for the kind words on the show and for the advice on the tail stock. Both are very much appreciated. Thanks for tuning in to the show as well. Great to have you on board as a viewer.
You're very welcome Donald. I'm glad that you enjoyed the show. Good luck with the build. Just remember to keep the RPM's of these down low as they don't have the same strength as the commercially available units. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks for the kind words on the show James. I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you and that you were able to make your own set. That's awesome. Thanks for tuning in and for takin the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
+Peter Mitchell It really is a great project and it is super easy to do. Definitely a fantastic solution to finishing the bottoms of bowls that you are turning and definitely way cheaper than the store bought versions. Just be sure to turn at low speeds. This version of the jaws is not meant for high speed turning. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for the video. I watched it (and several others) on my way to making my own set. The one thing I changed was to buy 1 inch bolts to attach the wooden sections to my chuck. The bolts on my Record Power chuck are only 1/4" long, and I didn't want to countersink so deep into the wood - I was worried they wouldn't hold. It took a few minutes at my local hardware store to locate the metric bolts, but with only a 1/4 counter sink into 1" thick wood, they will hold securely. Thanks again.
John Soyster Sounds like an excellent modification and one that viewers of my show would find useful. Thanks for chiming in with the suggestion and for tuning in to the show. It’s appreciated.
Thanks this is a great project. I found that most everything for your shop can be made. I plan on making this as soon as I get my new Grizzly lathe. You rock sir.
Moonpie Creations Thank you sir. I'm glad you liked the project and I hope that the build of your set of jaws goes well for you. If you have any questions, be sure to ask. Just don't forget to adjust the diameter of the jaws for your lathe. Thanks for tuning in.
Just made a set. Had to go to ace hardware for the bumper pads and the screws were only 1/2in. Got longer ones from lowes. Thanks, you save me major $$. About to make a second one at 14". Ken
Oh man do I wish I would have read that before I tried the second bowl. I took one to the face...had my face shield on so just a sore nose and a little ego battered. I could be a safety book of what not to do. lol. Ken
Thanks Bud for posting I made one of these years ago my biggest issue was used wrong type of plywood not the birch ply mine had voids it still worked but like you stated the birch is what you need and your rubber bumpers are the type used for bathroom toilet seat bumpers Thanks again for taking time to share! Also for the ones didn’t understand what your cap meant IBEW it stands for international brotherhood electrical workers
This is definitely a great jig for the lathe and I'm glad that you liked the show. You are 100% right about the initials on my cap. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. It is very much appreciated.
Thank you for the kind words on the show Paul. I stressed it several times during the video but I will stress it again. Keep the RPM's low when using this set of jaws. They work great but they are definitely not meant for high speed turning. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent video well explained thank you well done this is one of the best explained videos I have ever watched don't know what the comments meant about electricians etc didn't make sense at all Thanks again from North Wales U.K.
+willisshooting Thanks for the kind words on the show. I try my best to explain the process for any project in such a way that anyone can understand it. As far as the "electrician" comments........I believe that viewer is a carpenter and I am an electrician. He finds it funny that an electrician is teaching a carpenter how to work with wood. Just a little friendly ribbing from one tradesman to another, that's all. Thanks for tuning in to the show and thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment. I really do appreciate it.
Ken, now I have another well needed shop project to tackle. Nice job as usual. I don't know how I missed this video in the past. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
There are probably plenty on the show that you have missed Paul, but who has the time to go through all those videos? Definitely give this one a try, but remember, that when using it, you really need to keep the lathe down to a very low speed. These jaws are not meant to rotate at higher lathe speeds. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This comes at a perfect time. I'm just now in the layout phase for a set of these for myself. My lathe only has an 8" swing, so my jaws can not be very large. Somewhere around 3-3/4" each for a 7-1/2" closed diameter will be my limit.
Good video.. I will be making one soon. I am going to make mine so the jaws on the chuck don't have to be removed. I am going to use a 2"x 4"x 4" square screwed and glued to the back of the face plate. The Nova jaws will fit into a groove on the 2"x4" and each piece of the wood will have a bolt to tighten the whole fixture together. I like the way you did your fixtures.
Good timing on this one for me, I am getting a collection of bowls/plates that are too big for my current Cole Jaws. I was debating making a larger set or extensions for the Cole Jaws I have. Maybe I'll do both, extensions for the Cole Jaws on the 12" lathe and then a set for the 14" lathe. Might double the thickness for the larger set to reduce deflection.
Bill Davis Glad that this one could help you out Bill. They really do work well and are dirt cheap to make. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on the project.
Hardnox Thank you sir. I'm sure that this is something that quite a few of my viewers will be able to use. I turn from time to time and I really enjoy it and when I first made a set of these, they were the best thing since sliced bread. A real god send for anyone who likes to turn bowls.
Thanks for tuning in Daniel. Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber. I hope that you enjoy the content on the channel. At the moment, the show is on break for the holidays but will be returning to its regular weekly show starting on February 2nd. I hope that you will enjoy some of the content planned for 2018.
There are quite a few on the channel. Enjoy. Feel free to ask any questions that you like along the way. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can.
My one thought on this, apart from it being a very clear guide to making this, would be to start with the chuck jaws open just enough that you could get your saw blade between them, then use 4 shims the same width as the blade to separate them in the centre of an 11" square, before marking and drilling the mounting holes, then you could simply put the entire piece on the lathe to mark/trim off the edges and your circular grooves, before cutting it into 4 and doing your 22.5deg lines and drilling. This would reduce the risks of working on the piece on the lathe after it was cut into 4.
Nothing wrong with this suggestion at all and in fact, it's a good one. Thanks for chiming in with your idea as I'm sure that some of my viewers will find this information to be useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Question. If you were going to make one or the other which would you choose--the coles jaws or the Longworth chuck? Assuming you had not made either yet? Thanks for your input and your very clear presentation!
+Terry Ellis If I had it all to do again, I would definitely make the coles jaws. While there is a use for the Longworth chuck, I like the fact that the coles jaws are a simple concept that works with my head stock chuck without and kind of fancy routing or grooves to cut. It's just a simple design that works flawlessly. No need to complicate things here with a Longworth. Although I would like to make a longworth chuck one day. Thanks for the kind words on the show.
Ola Kennyearrings um bom dia sou Carlos do Brasil,quero parabenizar o Sr pelos excelentes videos que o Sr posta para mim tem sido de muito grande valor,pois estou aprendendo muito com eles,sou marceneiro e artesao e estou usando tudo que aprendo em meus trabalhos muito obrigado e ate mais.
Carlos mazarim You are very welcome Carlos. I'm glad that you have found my show helpful. I hope you will continue to watch the show and continue to learn.
I know this is an older video, but it is brilliant! I needed one of those chucks, but can't afford to buy one. I'll try making this. Thanks a million. You always have great videos, but this one is exceptional!!
Thanks for the kind words on the show and the project Brad. The main thing I would stress about this project is that once you have made it, do NOT run the lathe at a high speed. These are meant for low speed turning. I still use this one from the show and it still works great. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck on your project.
Thanks for the kind words Steve. I use two methods to sign my turnings. I have a wood burning tool that does a really nice job and I also have a brand that I can heat up with a blow torch and brand the bottom of my pieces. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What are your thoughts on the Leigh D4r that hangs on the shop wall? I watched the episode you posted and I am looking to get one. Just wanted you real opinion before I spend that kind of money. I really enjoy all your postings, keep up the great videos. Thanks for sharing.
River Run Thanks for the kind words on the show. I really do enjoy producing these weekly shows and it's always nice to hear that others enjoy my efforts. As far as the Leigh jig goes.....I love mine. There is a bit of a learning curve when you first work with it and there is also some initial set up that has to be done. There is a section in the manual for recording the results of your setup and once you get that information recorded in the manual, it's easy to get repeatable results. My favourite thing to do with the jig in contrasting species inlaid dove tails. They just look fantastic and they are definitely impressive. There are others that say that they prefer their jigs and that is just fine, but for my money, I don't regret purchasing this D4R Pro for an instant. I've always gotten great results, it's well made and sturdy and although there are a lot of people that are confused by the jig, it is fairly simple to use once you do the set up.Thank again for tuning in and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Just finished watching you video and thanks to you I feel confident I can make a set. The only question I have is how much space you left from outside edge of jaw to the lathe bed. I have a mini lathe that comes with an 8 in max width so was thinking a max of 6 in diameter. Do you think that would be enough? Hope you see my post and give your opinion before I start. Thanks for video and excellent step by step instructions.
6" in diameter should be fine. You just want to be careful that you don't open the jaws so much that they will strike the bed of the lathe while turning. You also want to make sure to use a set like this at a very low RPM. And by low, I mean around 300-500. These jaws are not meant to be used at high speeds as they will fail. Good luck on your build and if you have any questions, feed free to ask.
Really? A free content show that demonstrates how to make a useful jig for your lathe and you actually took the time to ridicule the toque that I'm wearing to stay warm in an unheated shop? That's pretty special. Thanks for tuning in.
I'm not 100% sure what you are referring to as being expansion mode but if you are referring to holding a piece while the jaws are opened wide, then yes I have. If you referring to using the jaws so that the rubber feet are on the inside of the piece, pushing out on the bowl instead of compressing it in, yes I have and with either one of these scenarios, the jaws worked flawlessly. You just have to keep in mind that you must (and I can't stress this enough) keep the RPM's down on the lathe. These homemade jaws are not suited for high RPM's and can become dangerous if you ramp the RPM's too high. If this hasn't answered your question, Please feel free to describe your definition of "expansion mode" and I will be more than happy to answer the question again.
Hi Kenny! Thanks for the quick reply, I really enjoy your videos. By expansion mode I meant with the rubber feet on the inside pushing outwards. I will be trying this build out of 1/2" plexiglass and will be trying the wine bottle "corks" that aren't cork but some sort of plastic. Pete UBC LU352
No problem Peter. So the answer is yes that I have used this in expansion mode and it works perfectly but I think part of the reason that it works is that the rubber feet can compress a little and give it some extra grip. I'm not so sure about corks as there is no give there and no way of compressing them. The plastic would be pretty rigid I would think. There's only one way to find out though and that's to try it. Let me know how it works and be sure to have a face shield on when you try it for the first time. Good luck
Great tutorial. Just need to get my hand on that birch plywood 24mm now. And before that, a 4 jaw chuck. Are there anyone in the USA who uses the metric system btw? Your me measurements for the holes got me lost :)
+Argomil I'm not from the USA. I'm Canadian and yes, we do use the metric system. The problem is that I was brought up on the Imperial system before Canada started using the metric system. Being a tradesman, I am used to using imperial measurements and it has just carried over into my woodworking. I have been trying to incorporate some metric into my build but it just hasn't been working very well. An online imperial to metric calculator might help you out.
+kennyearrings1 Guess it would be the same for me if I was to use the imperial system :) Trying to find an adapter for a barracuda chuck here. My spindle is a m24*2 and i got a chuck made for working on metal, not very useful for me.
+Kurre Stenbäck Not to worry. My little set of Cole Jaws isn't going to bankrupt any of the big companies. They will still sell their products but this shop made one suits me just fine.
I haven't a clue what you are talking about Sam but I guess you are entitled to your opinion. There is no such thing as too safe but I would question what it is that you are referring to.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the way I run a table saw and if there was a blatant problem, I would think that you would have pointed it out by now. I love trolls.
Those two hold down blocks????? Put them under the saw and leave them there. When you use them you have less control of the piece being sawed. Put your hand down ON the piece of wood then you can feel if anything is slipping or getting out of control! Please stop showing people that method that doesn't know about saws it is dangerous.
As someone who is producing this show with 39 years experience behind the tools, I don't take safety lightly. I am assuming that you are referring to the gripper push blocks that are being used to cut the original pieces at the beginning of the show. These are designed to do this particular type of cutting and there is only one difference between using these and using your hands.....in the event of kickback, your hands are nowhere near the blade of the saw when the stock gets torn away from the fence and into the running blade. With someone like yourself, who claims to be so experienced when it comes to the do's and don'ts of a table saw, I would think that you would be aware that having your hands between the fence and the blade while ripping anything less than 12" is nothing more than a fools game that will one day end in amputation. If you think pushing a 5-1/2" piece of stock through a table saw using nothing but your hands is a safe practice then maybe you might want to rethink you idea of safety. I can see by the extensive content on your channel, that you have plenty examples of the "proper" way to do things. (yes, this is sarcasm). When the day comes, (and it will) when you are in the emergency room attempting to have your finger sewn back on because you opted to use your hands on a close cut like this, refer back to this video and I will be more than happy to provide you with a link where you can acquire some push pads to keep, what is left of your hands, away from the spinning blade.
You have those two big hold down blocks what is all that for? PUT your hands on the wood and forget those two big blocks they will get you hurt one day
As someone who is producing this show with 39 years experience behind the tools, I don't take safety lightly. I am assuming that you are referring to the gripper push blocks that are being used to cut the original pieces at the beginning of the show. These are designed to do this particular type of cutting and there is only one difference between using these and using your hands.....in the event of kickback, your hands are nowhere near the blade of the saw when the stock gets torn away from the fence and into the running blade. With someone like yourself, who claims to be so experienced when it comes to the do's and don'ts of a table saw, I would think that you would be aware that having your hands between the fence and the blade while ripping anything less than 12" is nothing more than a fools game that will one day end in amputation. If you think pushing a 5-1/2" piece of stock through a table saw using nothing but your hands is a safe practice then maybe you might want to rethink you idea of safety. I can see by the extensive content on your channel, that you have plenty examples of the "proper" way to do things. (yes, this is sarcasm). When the day comes, (and it will) when you are in the emergency room attempting to have your finger sewn back on because you opted to use your hands on a close cut like this, refer back to this video and I will be more than happy to provide you with a link where you can acquire some push pads to keep, what is left of your hands, away from the spinning blade.
People like you should be ban from showing learning people what to do! I am 77 years old. I built Church Furniture for 25 years the OLD way Rip with table saw 16 inch blade. Cut a Tractor Trailer load at the time. The rest of my life I built houses and built Cabinets so I have had a little experience on a saw. When you have your hand on the work piece you have more control of it. I am very sorry that you are so daxn smart that you don't need to listen to anyone. I have never scratched my self on a saw. You can thank God you don't have a truck load to cut.
There are many different ways to do things in the world of woodworking Sam and as long as it is safe for the operator, there is no right or wrong way. I guess in this case, we will have to agree to disagree.
My grandfather who taught me, never used a push block in his life either Sam and he had all ten fingers as well with never a scratch. His table saw was a circular saw that was mounted upside down in a shop made table. The most dangerous piece of equipment I've ever seen and yet he used it without a problem and without push blocks or push pads. Just because he never used safety devices doesn't mean that it is the only way to do things. It might just mean that he got lucky. My personal preference is to keep my hands as far away from that blade as I can. I have Parkinson's and when it acts up, I need complete and total separation from the blade because I don't always have the control of my hands that others have and having them that close to the blade for me is asking for trouble. Like I said earlier, if it is safe for the user, then it isn't necessarily the wrong way to do it and there are more methods than just one. What works for one man, might not be the preferred method for another.
Brilliant mate, that's the one for me. Thanks, Stewart, south west Australia.
Just keep in mind to lower the RPM of your lathe Stewart. These are not meant for high speed turning. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck on your project.
Excellent Video! Super comprehensive. I feel after watching this vid, I can confidently make one for my lathe. Thanks a bunch for sharing! Have A Super Blessed Week!.....Gus
TheWoodWerker I'm glad you enjoyed it Gus. I try to make my videos as informative as I can without boring anyone. I'm glad that I succeeded with this one. Good luck on building your set and thanks for dropping me a comment on the show.
brilliant video, excellent instruction. thank you so much.
You are very welcome. I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed it. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This is the best video on home made Cole Jaw Chuck that I have seen. I will definitely make one.
BTW for safety it is always a good idea to bring up your tailstock to prevent the bowl from coming loose.
Thanks for the kind words on the show and for the advice on the tail stock. Both are very much appreciated. Thanks for tuning in to the show as well. Great to have you on board as a viewer.
Thanks for all the details. This will work in my shop.
You're very welcome Donald. I'm glad that you enjoyed the show. Good luck with the build. Just remember to keep the RPM's of these down low as they don't have the same strength as the commercially available units. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks for sharing this amazing video with useful information, thank you Kenny.
You're very welcome Raymond. This is a really great project and I hope that you give it a try. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very well made Video. Easy to follow, I made one after watching your video a month ago and had no problem making it Thanks to your Video.
Thanks for the kind words on the show James. I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you and that you were able to make your own set. That's awesome. Thanks for tuning in and for takin the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Thank you that was a brilliant video it looks real easy to do i might have a go at that
Thank you
Pete
+Peter Mitchell It really is a great project and it is super easy to do. Definitely a fantastic solution to finishing the bottoms of bowls that you are turning and definitely way cheaper than the store bought versions. Just be sure to turn at low speeds. This version of the jaws is not meant for high speed turning. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent video, will be making one tomorrow..Thankyou
Glad that you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks for the video. I watched it (and several others) on my way to making my own set. The one thing I changed was to buy 1 inch bolts to attach the wooden sections to my chuck. The bolts on my Record Power chuck are only 1/4" long, and I didn't want to countersink so deep into the wood - I was worried they wouldn't hold. It took a few minutes at my local hardware store to locate the metric bolts, but with only a 1/4 counter sink into 1" thick wood, they will hold securely. Thanks again.
John Soyster Sounds like an excellent modification and one that viewers of my show would find useful. Thanks for chiming in with the suggestion and for tuning in to the show. It’s appreciated.
Thanks this is a great project. I found that most everything for your shop can be made. I plan on making this as soon as I get my new Grizzly lathe. You rock sir.
Moonpie Creations Thank you sir. I'm glad you liked the project and I hope that the build of your set of jaws goes well for you. If you have any questions, be sure to ask. Just don't forget to adjust the diameter of the jaws for your lathe. Thanks for tuning in.
Just made a set. Had to go to ace hardware for the bumper pads and the screws were only 1/2in. Got longer ones from lowes. Thanks, you save me major $$. About to make a second one at 14".
Ken
That's awesome. Glad you were able to make yourself a set. Just remember to keep the RPM's low.
Oh man do I wish I would have read that before I tried the second bowl. I took one to the face...had my face shield on so just a sore nose and a little ego battered. I could be a safety book of what not to do. lol.
Ken
D'oh!!!!!! I told you in the video to use it ONLY with low speeds and light cuts. I'm glad to hear that your injuries weren't worse.
Really great video
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great Vid and Many Thanks Sir Kennyearrings1... On my To Do list now. Great Tutorial... Peace
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show Mike. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's very much appreciated.
very well made vidio thanks for all the detail.s
You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in.
thanks Master, from Chile.
You're very welcome Ramon. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Nice. Great job. I will try to make one
jose villa Glad you liked it Jose. Good luck with making your own. If you have any questions, be sure to ask.
Thanks Bud for posting I made one of these years ago my biggest issue was used wrong type of plywood not the birch ply mine had voids it still worked but like you stated the birch is what you need and your rubber bumpers are the type used for bathroom toilet seat bumpers
Thanks again for taking time to share! Also for the ones didn’t understand what your cap meant IBEW it stands for international brotherhood electrical workers
This is definitely a great jig for the lathe and I'm glad that you liked the show. You are 100% right about the initials on my cap. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. It is very much appreciated.
A very good explanation and demonstration. I may make a set since I turn bowls and this might be more convenient than using a jam chuck.
Thank you for the kind words on the show Paul. I stressed it several times during the video but I will stress it again. Keep the RPM's low when using this set of jaws. They work great but they are definitely not meant for high speed turning. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great teaching aid. Well done.
Thanks for the kind word Jean. Thanks for tuning in.
Please don't take any lessons on how to run a table saw!
Apparently, Sam thinks I'm too safe. I find that a little odd.
Excellent video well explained thank you well done this is one of the best explained videos I have ever watched don't know what the comments meant about electricians etc didn't make sense at all
Thanks again from North Wales U.K.
+willisshooting
Thanks for the kind words on the show. I try my best to explain the process for any project in such a way that anyone can understand it. As far as the "electrician" comments........I believe that viewer is a carpenter and I am an electrician. He finds it funny that an electrician is teaching a carpenter how to work with wood. Just a little friendly ribbing from one tradesman to another, that's all. Thanks for tuning in to the show and thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment. I really do appreciate it.
No Problem
Ken, now I have another well needed shop project to tackle. Nice job as usual. I don't know how I missed this video in the past. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
There are probably plenty on the show that you have missed Paul, but who has the time to go through all those videos? Definitely give this one a try, but remember, that when using it, you really need to keep the lathe down to a very low speed. These jaws are not meant to rotate at higher lathe speeds. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I do love your Cole jaws
Thanks Sam. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This comes at a perfect time. I'm just now in the layout phase for a set of these for myself. My lathe only has an 8" swing, so my jaws can not be very large. Somewhere around 3-3/4" each for a 7-1/2" closed diameter will be my limit.
johnnie52 Well then, I hope this video will help you out with that project Johnnie. Be sure to let me know how it TURNS out. (see what I did there?)
Good video.. I will be making one soon. I am going to make mine so the jaws on the chuck don't have to be removed. I am going to use a 2"x 4"x 4" square screwed and glued to the back of the face plate. The Nova jaws will fit into a groove on the 2"x4" and each piece of the wood will have a bolt to tighten the whole fixture together. I like the way you did your fixtures.
Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in. Good luck on your build.
Nice idea! Thank you for sharing. Now off to HD to buy my supplies.
Glad that you liked it. Good luck on your build. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great information thanks
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you found it useful. Thank you for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. It's appreciated.
For very little, you can use 1/2 inch aluminum plate. It will be much more stable, and less likely to fail at the bolt holes. Happy turning.
Great suggestion. For those who don't want to use the plywood, aluminum plate would be a great alternative. Thanks for chiming in.
Excellent, thx
Kirk Evans You're very welcome. Glad you liked it.
Good timing on this one for me, I am getting a collection of bowls/plates that are too big for my current Cole Jaws. I was debating making a larger set or extensions for the Cole Jaws I have. Maybe I'll do both, extensions for the Cole Jaws on the 12" lathe and then a set for the 14" lathe. Might double the thickness for the larger set to reduce deflection.
Bill Davis Glad that this one could help you out Bill. They really do work well and are dirt cheap to make. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on the project.
Heck, I thought you were going to show us how to make homemade coleslaw. :)
I don't turn but I learned something new today. Great workmanship.
Hardnox Thank you sir. I'm sure that this is something that quite a few of my viewers will be able to use. I turn from time to time and I really enjoy it and when I first made a set of these, they were the best thing since sliced bread. A real god send for anyone who likes to turn bowls.
desde argentina, felicitaciones, muy bueno....ok.
+Juan Carlos Schajnovetz
I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching my show.
That is so cool. Got a new sub. on that one
Thanks for tuning in Daniel. Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber. I hope that you enjoy the content on the channel. At the moment, the show is on break for the holidays but will be returning to its regular weekly show starting on February 2nd. I hope that you will enjoy some of the content planned for 2018.
Looks like you have about a gazillion videos to watch in the meantime
There are quite a few on the channel. Enjoy. Feel free to ask any questions that you like along the way. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can.
My one thought on this, apart from it being a very clear guide to making this, would be to start with the chuck jaws open just enough that you could get your saw blade between them, then use 4 shims the same width as the blade to separate them in the centre of an 11" square, before marking and drilling the mounting holes, then you could simply put the entire piece on the lathe to mark/trim off the edges and your circular grooves, before cutting it into 4 and doing your 22.5deg lines and drilling. This would reduce the risks of working on the piece on the lathe after it was cut into 4.
Nothing wrong with this suggestion at all and in fact, it's a good one. Thanks for chiming in with your idea as I'm sure that some of my viewers will find this information to be useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Question. If you were going to make one or the other which would you choose--the coles jaws or the Longworth chuck? Assuming you had not made either yet? Thanks for your input and your very clear presentation!
+Terry Ellis If I had it all to do again, I would definitely make the coles jaws. While there is a use for the Longworth chuck, I like the fact that the coles jaws are a simple concept that works with my head stock chuck without and kind of fancy routing or grooves to cut. It's just a simple design that works flawlessly. No need to complicate things here with a Longworth. Although I would like to make a longworth chuck one day. Thanks for the kind words on the show.
Ola Kennyearrings um bom dia sou Carlos do Brasil,quero parabenizar o Sr pelos excelentes videos que o Sr posta para mim tem sido de muito grande valor,pois estou aprendendo muito com eles,sou marceneiro e artesao e estou usando tudo que aprendo em meus trabalhos muito obrigado e ate mais.
Carlos mazarim You are very welcome Carlos. I'm glad that you have found my show helpful. I hope you will continue to watch the show and continue to learn.
I know this is an older video, but it is brilliant! I needed one of those chucks, but can't afford to buy one. I'll try making this. Thanks a million. You always have great videos, but this one is exceptional!!
Thanks for the kind words on the show and the project Brad. The main thing I would stress about this project is that once you have made it, do NOT run the lathe at a high speed. These are meant for low speed turning. I still use this one from the show and it still works great. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck on your project.
Great video...what do you use to sign your turnings?
Thanks for the kind words Steve. I use two methods to sign my turnings. I have a wood burning tool that does a really nice job and I also have a brand that I can heat up with a blow torch and brand the bottom of my pieces. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What are your thoughts on the Leigh D4r that hangs on the shop wall? I watched the episode you posted and I am looking to get one. Just wanted you real opinion before I spend that kind of money. I really enjoy all your postings, keep up the great videos. Thanks for sharing.
River Run Thanks for the kind words on the show. I really do enjoy producing these weekly shows and it's always nice to hear that others enjoy my efforts. As far as the Leigh jig goes.....I love mine. There is a bit of a learning curve when you first work with it and there is also some initial set up that has to be done. There is a section in the manual for recording the results of your setup and once you get that information recorded in the manual, it's easy to get repeatable results. My favourite thing to do with the jig in contrasting species inlaid dove tails. They just look fantastic and they are definitely impressive. There are others that say that they prefer their jigs and that is just fine, but for my money, I don't regret purchasing this D4R Pro for an instant. I've always gotten great results, it's well made and sturdy and although there are a lot of people that are confused by the jig, it is fairly simple to use once you do the set up.Thank again for tuning in and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
gonna make me one,,,i found also,,,you can use wine stoppers for the bumper pads and cut them to what length you want,,,i had to replace mine,,lol
I can see that working Jeff. Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to start drinking wine in order to get some. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Just finished watching you video and thanks to you I feel confident I can make a set. The only question I have is how much space you left from outside edge of jaw to the lathe bed. I have a mini lathe that comes with an 8 in max width so was thinking a max of 6 in diameter. Do you think that would be enough? Hope you see my post and give your opinion before I start. Thanks for video and excellent step by step instructions.
6" in diameter should be fine. You just want to be careful that you don't open the jaws so much that they will strike the bed of the lathe while turning. You also want to make sure to use a set like this at a very low RPM. And by low, I mean around 300-500. These jaws are not meant to be used at high speeds as they will fail. Good luck on your build and if you have any questions, feed free to ask.
Thank you
You're very welcome. Good luck
thanks video
+Nhat Lam Glad you liked it. You're welcome.
Thank you Bob haert
Thank you big ❣️
You're welcome. Whose Bob Heart?
@@josephwijegoonewardena4404 Again, you're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Ridicule son bonnet! Ça décrédibilise son émission !
Really? A free content show that demonstrates how to make a useful jig for your lathe and you actually took the time to ridicule the toque that I'm wearing to stay warm in an unheated shop? That's pretty special. Thanks for tuning in.
Have you tried these in expansion mode? Thanks.
I'm not 100% sure what you are referring to as being expansion mode but if you are referring to holding a piece while the jaws are opened wide, then yes I have. If you referring to using the jaws so that the rubber feet are on the inside of the piece, pushing out on the bowl instead of compressing it in, yes I have and with either one of these scenarios, the jaws worked flawlessly. You just have to keep in mind that you must (and I can't stress this enough) keep the RPM's down on the lathe. These homemade jaws are not suited for high RPM's and can become dangerous if you ramp the RPM's too high. If this hasn't answered your question, Please feel free to describe your definition of "expansion mode" and I will be more than happy to answer the question again.
Hi Kenny!
Thanks for the quick reply, I really enjoy your videos.
By expansion mode I meant with the rubber feet on the inside pushing outwards.
I will be trying this build out of 1/2" plexiglass and will be trying the wine bottle "corks" that aren't cork but some sort of plastic.
Pete
UBC LU352
No problem Peter. So the answer is yes that I have used this in expansion mode and it works perfectly but I think part of the reason that it works is that the rubber feet can compress a little and give it some extra grip. I'm not so sure about corks as there is no give there and no way of compressing them. The plastic would be pretty rigid I would think. There's only one way to find out though and that's to try it. Let me know how it works and be sure to have a face shield on when you try it for the first time. Good luck
Great tutorial.
Just need to get my hand on that birch plywood 24mm now.
And before that, a 4 jaw chuck.
Are there anyone in the USA who uses the metric system btw?
Your me measurements for the holes got me lost :)
+Argomil
I'm not from the USA. I'm Canadian and yes, we do use the metric system. The problem is that I was brought up on the Imperial system before Canada started using the metric system. Being a tradesman, I am used to using imperial measurements and it has just carried over into my woodworking. I have been trying to incorporate some metric into my build but it just hasn't been working very well. An online imperial to metric calculator might help you out.
+kennyearrings1 Guess it would be the same for me if I was to use the imperial system :)
Trying to find an adapter for a barracuda chuck here.
My spindle is a m24*2 and i got a chuck made for working on metal, not very useful for me.
If you have a 4 jaw chuck made for metal, could you not apply the process that I have shown in the video to convert it to one made for woodworking?
An electrician teaching a carpenter (local 1977) how to woodwork. Lmao.
Gotta learn from someone. Why not teaching from trade to trade. LOL. Thanks for tuning in.
😈= it is bad for the the big companies..
+Kurre Stenbäck Not to worry. My little set of Cole Jaws isn't going to bankrupt any of the big companies. They will still sell their products but this shop made one suits me just fine.
kennyearrings1 big tom
Huh?
I have run a table saw all my life since I was about 11 yo. that is the most dangerous use of a saw I have ever seen . YOU can be tooooooo safe
I haven't a clue what you are talking about Sam but I guess you are entitled to your opinion. There is no such thing as too safe but I would question what it is that you are referring to.
I know you don't. If you knew you would not be doing what you are doing!
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the way I run a table saw and if there was a blatant problem, I would think that you would have pointed it out by now. I love trolls.
Those two hold down blocks????? Put them under the saw and leave them there. When you use them you have less control of the piece being sawed. Put your hand down ON the piece of wood then you can feel if anything is slipping or getting out of control! Please stop showing people that method that doesn't know about saws it is dangerous.
As someone who is producing this show with 39 years experience behind the tools, I don't take safety lightly. I am assuming that you are referring to the gripper push blocks that are being used to cut the original pieces at the beginning of the show. These are designed to do this particular type of cutting and there is only one difference between using these and using your hands.....in the event of kickback, your hands are nowhere near the blade of the saw when the stock gets torn away from the fence and into the running blade. With someone like yourself, who claims to be so experienced when it comes to the do's and don'ts of a table saw, I would think that you would be aware that having your hands between the fence and the blade while ripping anything less than 12" is nothing more than a fools game that will one day end in amputation. If you think pushing a 5-1/2" piece of stock through a table saw using nothing but your hands is a safe practice then maybe you might want to rethink you idea of safety. I can see by the extensive content on your channel, that you have plenty examples of the "proper" way to do things. (yes, this is sarcasm). When the day comes, (and it will) when you are in the emergency room attempting to have your finger sewn back on because you opted to use your hands on a close cut like this, refer back to this video and I will be more than happy to provide you with a link where you can acquire some push pads to keep, what is left of your hands, away from the spinning blade.
You have those two big hold down blocks what is all that for? PUT your hands on the wood and forget those two big blocks they will get you hurt one day
As someone who is producing this show with 39 years experience behind the tools, I don't take safety lightly. I am assuming that you are referring to the gripper push blocks that are being used to cut the original pieces at the beginning of the show. These are designed to do this particular type of cutting and there is only one difference between using these and using your hands.....in the event of kickback, your hands are nowhere near the blade of the saw when the stock gets torn away from the fence and into the running blade. With someone like yourself, who claims to be so experienced when it comes to the do's and don'ts of a table saw, I would think that you would be aware that having your hands between the fence and the blade while ripping anything less than 12" is nothing more than a fools game that will one day end in amputation. If you think pushing a 5-1/2" piece of stock through a table saw using nothing but your hands is a safe practice then maybe you might want to rethink you idea of safety. I can see by the extensive content on your channel, that you have plenty examples of the "proper" way to do things. (yes, this is sarcasm). When the day comes, (and it will) when you are in the emergency room attempting to have your finger sewn back on because you opted to use your hands on a close cut like this, refer back to this video and I will be more than happy to provide you with a link where you can acquire some push pads to keep, what is left of your hands, away from the spinning blade.
People like you should be ban from showing learning people what to do! I am 77 years old. I built Church Furniture for 25 years the OLD way Rip with table saw 16 inch blade. Cut a Tractor Trailer load at the time. The rest of my life I built houses and built Cabinets so I have had a little experience on a saw. When you have your hand on the work piece you have more control of it. I am very sorry that you are so daxn smart that you don't need to listen to anyone. I have never scratched my self on a saw. You can thank God you don't have a truck load to cut.
There are many different ways to do things in the world of woodworking Sam and as long as it is safe for the operator, there is no right or wrong way. I guess in this case, we will have to agree to disagree.
OK you'r not all that bad you do try to get things square.
My grandfather who taught me, never used a push block in his life either Sam and he had all ten fingers as well with never a scratch. His table saw was a circular saw that was mounted upside down in a shop made table. The most dangerous piece of equipment I've ever seen and yet he used it without a problem and without push blocks or push pads. Just because he never used safety devices doesn't mean that it is the only way to do things. It might just mean that he got lucky. My personal preference is to keep my hands as far away from that blade as I can. I have Parkinson's and when it acts up, I need complete and total separation from the blade because I don't always have the control of my hands that others have and having them that close to the blade for me is asking for trouble. Like I said earlier, if it is safe for the user, then it isn't necessarily the wrong way to do it and there are more methods than just one. What works for one man, might not be the preferred method for another.