I am replacing the thermal fuse on a toaster oven. The previous fuse burned completely. Comments below are great. The original spade clips are reusable, but what can I use to insulate the connection? I don't have any fiberglass wire insulation left. Do I cover the entire connection or just the fuse? Good stuff, people. Best video so far on this topic.
I just had mine fail in a toaster oven, I wired around it rather than replace. Only ghetto dwellers let their appliances overheat, its lack of maintenance. These fuses are designed to fail in a few years, 90% of people junk the item. Good for business.
Millions of small appliances end up in the landfills every year due to these non-resetting thermal fuses. It's a frickin' crime. Most fail well short of ever reaching their rated temp. That's exactly the way manufacturers like it.
My Hedge trimmer keeps cutting out - 2 kind of fuses inside - may try and replace. Makers don't seem to care - just expect you to buy another and ignore climate change.
I agree, its a ripoff. I just had mine fail in a toaster oven, I wired around it rather than replace. Only ghetto dwellers let their appliances overheat, its lack of maintenance. These fuses are designed to fail in a few years, 90% of people junk the item. Good for business.
Good one. Very informative and helpfull video. I have some questions. > Where can I buy these fuses in Canada and what cost > Possible to replace it with resetable fuse.
I don't know about Canadian retailers. It used to be Radio Shack would have things like this but they're out of business. I got mine on the internet. Resettable? Yeah, why not.
I've got a heater just like that one, except the thermostat is in the front instead of on top. It's called an Eaton Viking (Eaton was a department store chain here in Canada) and was made in 1968. :)
I was trying to diagnose a milk house heater that was shutting off and not coming back on a couple of years ago. It has those bi-metal contact points in it which is what I thought was wrong with it but looking at this video I'm thinking that maybe it's a bad thermal fuse. I didn't know it also had a thermal fuse, I thought that the contact points was the thermal fuse itself. Now I'm rethinking it and am going to check the thermal fuse. I remember trying to find the bi-metal contact points online without much luck.
Hi , if a thermal fuse is rated 175degrees , in a heat gun, of the temperature inside it is between 170degrees to 175 degrees, would not the solder melt?
Hello David, great video. However with all due respect, the soldering job is not quite 100% proper. Solder is not the main component in adhering 2 wires together, so it is not just the ac of putting some solder on both, then 'sticking together. Sore it may hold up but the connection could be better. The best connections is to mechanically put the wires together, first. Either a twist, or a bent hook and crimp on both wires first. That joint alone is pretty strong in itself, but not fully reliable. Applying the solder fills the minute spaces between your joint's wires for a solid connection. Any of the old timers will say that the mechanical connection first, then filling in gaps left, is the way to have a joint stronger than the wire itself. Please don't take this in the wrong way, I just wanted to pass this on to you, or others that see the video. There is a crimped fastener that sometimes comes with the thermal fuse. This is ideal to get a strong hold on the wires, Some will still leave this crimped connection bare, others will then solder it. Thank your the nice video sir.
The Original Mechanic Thermal fuses are supposed to attached with crimping not soldering. First because you could overheat them and destroy them when soldering the wires, second because the solder join may become soft at high temperatures causing a bad connection creating resistance and heating the solder even more then melting it and creating a mess inside a device that is on...
Crimp the thermal than solder, too shut both of you 2 TFU! If he would of blown the fuse then the appliance wouldn't have started right up! And twisting wires guy, if you look it's 1 solid wire, you don't want to twist this sort of thermal cutoff axial fuse. Yeah I'd go with crimping just because it's a fuse. Now we got to find the crimps for this, these type of items are not like walking into a store & buying a beer!
Any idea where to get a thermal fuse these days? June 2020? Only found a strange foreign site with $20 shipping? Radio Shack is out so any other places? I am looking for a SW-104T fuse.
I have a philips air fryer. The problem when i plug in in instant starts fan and heater. Disply button not working just biinking. Sound like tik tik comming from pcb contacter rely. Whats the problem
what is you wanted to change your thermal fuse to a thermal switch? I have a thermal fuse has TF 230C on it but can only find switches up to 145C. example the KSD9700 max out at 145 degrees C.
Beware. A thermal fuse that blows provides protection against fire. A thermal switch can recycle on and off until you get a fire! The lower temp rating of the switch simply means it'll open when the temp reaches 145 C and then cycle on and off to maintain roughly 145 C. This is NOT the same as a 230 C fuse that will blow if the fuse temp reaches 230 C. The higher temp can be reached due to a combination of the 145 C in the vicinity and the resistance of the fuse itself.
I have one of those portable fireplace show heaters. Most the time it works fine and we only run it on low 750 watts. Randomly, the heat element and fan will stop while the "light show" continues. If you turn the heater off for around 5 minutes, you can hear a click inside. Restarting the heater makes it run correctly until the next time it randomly does this again. It may be a few hours or days when this happens again. Could this be a faulty thermo switch? I find it hard to believe the unit is actually overheating, it's been taken apart and cleaned out. Its operating at 750 watts in a cool room.
If you put shrink tubing around the thermal fuse you are modifying its ability to cutoff at the correct temperature because the shrink tubing is acting as an insulator.
@@TheOriginalMechanic It may be so, but I would not take a chance. A thermal fuse plays an important role to avoid a fire if the unit overheats. Shrink tubing around the fuse will result at a power cutoff at a higher temperature...It is a gamble in my opinion.
I am very new to electronics (only as a hobby, not my profession). Questions: 1) why is one end of the fuse shorter then another? 2) is it important how you connect it - "which way" should the "sharper" end face? 3) I would like to blow it that I connect some 9V battery to an LED via a resistor with having this fuse in the circuit. Using a lighter I would heat it up above 94*C. Any precautions maybe? I would probably use alligator clips for connecting the fuse to the linear circuit or maybe just some copper wire because I fear the clips will also overheat and maybe melt their rubber part. Fuse type: SEFUSE, sf90r0, 94*C, 15A
I haven't seen a new thermal cut-off with one lead shorter. It must have been cut that way to fit. It doesn't matter how you connect as there is no polarity. Your experimental circuit has me??? Thanks for watching.
@@TheOriginalMechanic - Yes, it does matter which way it's connected, the cone end of the fuse part faces toward your power source. Also, soldering a thermal fuse is a great way to blow your fuse unless you take certain precautions, which you didn't.
I could tell by the construction that it had to be directional but was unsure of its orientation. And you are absolutely 100% correct soldering a thermal fuse is not a good idea. I typically don't replace very many of these and when I do they come in some sort of housing. Thank you!
I have a fanless convection heater.The mechanical thermal cut out keeps activating.I cant see anything that would cause it.The heater cycles through this after sparking from there.I decided against bypassing it.Thanks.
My air fryer is has a problem when i plug in it instant strt fan and heater. Display birton are not working just blinking and tik tik sound comming from contector rely. What the problem
I did see that you used solder on the fuse. I just want to make sure that with that temperature from the soldering iron it wont set off the fuse before its even in place.
I don't think the heat from the iron transfers quite fast enough to get to the fuse. It isn't a bad idea,though, to insert a clip near the solder point to take away some of the heat before it can reach the fuse.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Anything more than about 1 sec of high temp (300 C+) solder tip contact will blow the fuse, unless, as you say, you take steps to prevent all the heat transferring to the fuse -- alligator clips, ice, etc. Many of those options will make it even harder to solder the connection properly. These connections come spot welded, not soldered, for that very reason.
Why are people soldering a thermal fuse? It can blow them or worse, the heat can melt the solder and then the fuse will disconnect and possibly fall and create a short/fire hazard. This is just stupid!
Good video But i need to replace an element in my black and decker toaster-r-oven. Upper element is totally dead. Anyone has any idea? Do i need to change a Thermal Fuse?
The idea is that it opens up and shuts down the device before there is a fire. Of course any protective device can malfunction but this should be extremely rare.
solder melts at a lower temp than the thermal fuse. the heat shrink also burns at a lower temp. good video on what not to do
Very helpful! Thank you. I'm trying to fix a coffee grinder and I think that this is why it stopped working.
I am replacing the thermal fuse on a toaster oven. The previous fuse burned completely. Comments below are great. The original spade clips are reusable, but what can I use to insulate the connection? I don't have any fiberglass wire insulation left. Do I cover the entire connection or just the fuse? Good stuff, people. Best video so far on this topic.
I just had mine fail in a toaster oven, I wired around it rather than replace. Only ghetto dwellers let their appliances overheat, its lack of maintenance. These fuses are designed to fail in a few years, 90% of people junk the item. Good for business.
Millions of small appliances end up in the landfills every year due to these non-resetting thermal fuses. It's a frickin' crime. Most fail well short of ever reaching their rated temp. That's exactly the way manufacturers like it.
My Hedge trimmer keeps cutting out - 2 kind of fuses inside - may try and replace. Makers don't seem to care - just expect you to buy another and ignore climate change.
I agree, its a ripoff. I just had mine fail in a toaster oven, I wired around it rather than replace. Only ghetto dwellers let their appliances overheat, its lack of maintenance. These fuses are designed to fail in a few years, 90% of people junk the item. Good for business.
That was very helpful. I will not have to throw out my heater
Thank You very much..
Good job THANKS
Good one. Very informative and helpfull video. I have some questions.
> Where can I buy these fuses in Canada and what cost
> Possible to replace it with resetable fuse.
I don't know about Canadian retailers. It used to be Radio Shack would have things like this but they're out of business. I got mine on the internet. Resettable? Yeah, why not.
I've got a heater just like that one, except the thermostat is in the front instead of on top. It's called an Eaton Viking (Eaton was a department store chain here in Canada) and was made in 1968. :)
Good one
I was trying to diagnose a milk house heater that was shutting off and not coming back on a couple of years ago. It has those bi-metal contact points in it which is what I thought was wrong with it but looking at this video I'm thinking that maybe it's a bad thermal fuse. I didn't know it also had a thermal fuse, I thought that the contact points was the thermal fuse itself. Now I'm rethinking it and am going to check the thermal fuse. I remember trying to find the bi-metal contact points online without much luck.
Sir thermal cutoff series connection can be or can't 128c 229c plz?
Hi , if a thermal fuse is rated 175degrees , in a heat gun, of the temperature inside it is between 170degrees to 175 degrees, would not the solder melt?
The melting point of solder is much higher than that, upwards of 300 degrees as I recall.
Does it matter which way the the thermal fuse is positioned
Hello David, great video. However with all due respect, the soldering job is not quite 100% proper. Solder is not the main component in adhering 2 wires together, so it is not just the ac of putting some solder on both, then 'sticking together. Sore it may hold up but the connection could be better. The best connections is to mechanically put the wires together, first. Either a twist, or a bent hook and crimp on both wires first. That joint alone is pretty strong in itself, but not fully reliable. Applying the solder fills the minute spaces between your joint's wires for a solid connection. Any of the old timers will say that the mechanical connection first, then filling in gaps left, is the way to have a joint stronger than the wire itself. Please don't take this in the wrong way, I just wanted to pass this on to you, or others that see the video.
There is a crimped fastener that sometimes comes with the thermal fuse. This is ideal to get a strong hold on the wires, Some will still leave this crimped connection bare, others will then solder it. Thank your the nice video sir.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to share these helpful details.
The Original Mechanic Thermal fuses are supposed to attached with crimping not soldering. First because you could overheat them and destroy them when soldering the wires, second because the solder join may become soft at high temperatures causing a bad connection creating resistance and heating the solder even more then melting it and creating a mess inside a device that is on...
Crimp the thermal than solder, too shut both of you 2 TFU! If he would of blown the fuse then the appliance wouldn't have started right up!
And twisting wires guy, if you look it's 1 solid wire, you don't want to twist this sort of thermal cutoff axial fuse. Yeah I'd go with crimping just because it's a fuse. Now we got to find the crimps for this, these type of items are not like walking into a store & buying a beer!
Any idea where to get a thermal fuse these days? June 2020? Only found a strange foreign site with $20 shipping? Radio Shack is out so any other places? I am looking for a SW-104T fuse.
I think I found mine on ebay. Otherwise Newark Electronics or Digikey carry about everything imaginable in the field.
Can I use a 133C thermal fuse on a 130C charger?
That should be fine.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Thank you
Sir thermal cutoff series connection parallel connection 128c+229c about plz
Can anyone provide a source where to order a replacement fuse, the specs or the part number for this fuse for the Lasko 20" box fan?
Does it matter which polarity, we test the thermal fuse?
I get continuity in one direction and the other way round,,- nothing
Thermal fuses have no polarity
If you have continuity one way and not the other it isn't a thermal fuse! It's a diode!
Good video, ? does this type of thermal fuse have to solder in any particular direction,
No it does not. There is no polarity. Thanks for watching.
DON'T SOLDER a thermal fuse! That's just plain STUPID!!
I have a philips air fryer. The problem when i plug in in instant starts fan and heater. Disply button not working just biinking. Sound like tik tik comming from pcb contacter rely. Whats the problem
Where did you get a replacement ?
I found it on E-Bay.
Thanks. I found one at Radio Shack.
You're welcome. My Radio Shack never had it in stock.
what is you wanted to change your thermal fuse to a thermal switch? I have a thermal fuse has TF 230C on it but can only find switches up to 145C. example the KSD9700 max out at 145 degrees C.
Beware. A thermal fuse that blows provides protection against fire. A thermal switch can recycle on and off until you get a fire!
The lower temp rating of the switch simply means it'll open when the temp reaches 145 C and then cycle on and off to maintain roughly 145 C. This is NOT the same as a 230 C fuse that will blow if the fuse temp reaches 230 C. The higher temp can be reached due to a combination of the 145 C in the vicinity and the resistance of the fuse itself.
I have one of those portable fireplace show heaters. Most the time it works fine and we only run it on low 750 watts. Randomly, the heat element and fan will stop while the "light show" continues.
If you turn the heater off for around 5 minutes, you can hear a click inside. Restarting the heater makes it run correctly until the next time it randomly does this again. It may be a few hours or days when this happens again.
Could this be a faulty thermo switch? I find it hard to believe the unit is actually overheating, it's been taken apart and cleaned out. Its operating at 750 watts in a cool room.
It does sound like it could be a re-settable thermal overload that's not working right.
If you put shrink tubing around the thermal fuse you are modifying its ability to cutoff at the correct temperature because the shrink tubing is acting as an insulator.
This old unit is still heating well several years later.
@@TheOriginalMechanic It may be so, but I would not take a chance. A thermal fuse plays an important role to avoid a fire if the unit overheats. Shrink tubing around the fuse will result at a power cutoff at a higher temperature...It is a gamble in my opinion.
@@10yoss Makes sense. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the tip.
So it does not matter which way the fuse goes?
It does not matter.
I am very new to electronics (only as a hobby, not my profession). Questions:
1) why is one end of the fuse shorter then another?
2) is it important how you connect it - "which way" should the "sharper" end face?
3) I would like to blow it that I connect some 9V battery to an LED via a resistor with having this fuse in the circuit. Using a lighter I would heat it up above 94*C. Any precautions maybe? I would probably use alligator clips for connecting the fuse to the linear circuit or maybe just some copper wire because I fear the clips will also overheat and maybe melt their rubber part.
Fuse type: SEFUSE, sf90r0, 94*C, 15A
I haven't seen a new thermal cut-off with one lead shorter. It must have been cut that way to fit. It doesn't matter how you connect as there is no polarity. Your experimental circuit has me??? Thanks for watching.
@@TheOriginalMechanic - Yes, it does matter which way it's connected, the cone end of the fuse part faces toward your power source. Also, soldering a thermal fuse is a great way to blow your fuse unless you take certain precautions, which you didn't.
I could tell by the construction that it had to be directional but was unsure of its orientation. And you are absolutely 100% correct soldering a thermal fuse is not a good idea. I typically don't replace very many of these and when I do they come in some sort of housing. Thank you!
@@Fucknuts4u "cone end of the fuse part faces toward your power source." Not in my rice cooker!
I have a fanless convection heater.The mechanical thermal cut out keeps activating.I cant see anything that would cause it.The heater cycles through this after sparking from there.I decided against bypassing it.Thanks.
Wise decision not to bypass it as a permanent fix!
My air fryer is has a problem when i plug in it instant strt fan and heater. Display birton are not working just blinking and tik tik sound comming from contector rely. What the problem
I did see that you used solder on the fuse. I just want to make sure that with that temperature from the soldering iron it wont set off the fuse before its even in place.
I don't think the heat from the iron transfers quite fast enough to get to the fuse. It isn't a bad idea,though, to insert a clip near the solder point to take away some of the heat before it can reach the fuse.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Anything more than about 1 sec of high temp (300 C+) solder tip contact will blow the fuse, unless, as you say, you take steps to prevent all the heat transferring to the fuse -- alligator clips, ice, etc. Many of those options will make it even harder to solder the connection properly. These connections come spot welded, not soldered, for that very reason.
He soldered it because he DOESN'T know what he's doing! NEVER solder a thermal fuse. That's just dumb!
@@stevenA44 FYI, there is such a thing as cold soldering as well, that wouldn't exceed the temp rating on the fuse to make it useless....
@@hardkore360 FYI I KNOW what cold soldering is and it's garbage! I had a cold heat soldering iron and it's shit in my opinion.
Why are people soldering a thermal fuse? It can blow them or worse, the heat can melt the solder and then the fuse will disconnect and possibly fall and create a short/fire hazard. This is just stupid!
Good video
But i need to replace an element in my black and decker
toaster-r-oven. Upper element is totally dead.
Anyone has any idea?
Do i need to change a Thermal Fuse?
First you should measure the resistance of the element with an ohmmeter. Low resistance good. High resistance replace.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Thanks
why do you need a thermal fuse at all. If it catches fire ?
The idea is that it opens up and shuts down the device before there is a fire. Of course any protective device can malfunction but this should be extremely rare.
@@TheOriginalMechanic So if there is no fire why does it fail