You and me both brother. I am dreaming of hearing that turbo flutter when coming off boost for the first time! Thanks for watching and for your support.
Machining is expensive. Guess I have to save up for another year or just save up for the cast PRP block. I look forward to the build. You have always been thorough. I still go back to your older videos on doing stuff to the RB26. I think if you change out the front open diff with an LSD, it evenly distributes the front torque and prevent the twisting.
The front diff is defiantly something I have been thinking of addressing while I have the engine out of the car and everything is apart. I am going to talk with the boys at Intec Racing about different options. Glad to hear some of my old videos are still helping fellow GTR owners. I really wanted to buy a brand new PRP brand new cast block, but that was way out of my budget right now. But how awesome that those guys spent all the time and money to develop a new and improved RB26 cast block. I cant wait to see what kind of builds they do in Australia with those new engines. See you on the next video!
Good stuff! I know the feeling with getting overwhelmed with a build. My R33 trans blew up and the next day I told myself, nows the time to make the car owning wanted. I'm now painting the car on my own and getting my motor built. It has been a time, but it's rewarding. You're going down the rt path. Keep it going!
Thanks Migz, the positive feedback from all you boys in the GTR community has been amazing. Heck yeah on owning a Stagea 260RS with a built RB too. I have only seen about 3 of those in the wild so far. I am a huge fan of the Stagea. Glad to hear you enjoy my videos and thanks for watching - Josh
@@JDMRightHandDrive haha that’s dope. Trust me I wish I had gotten an R32 gtr but these prices now, plus having kids that enjoy my crazy hobby it was the best choice hahah speedwgn aka the DadWGN 😂🍻 hopefully we could link up this season planning on head down to Texas in November for the R meet, all the way from north of Boston 😎🍻
I feel ya on being overwhelmed. Lately I've spent days just sitting and writing to plot out the order of operations on my car, trying to hammer out the best way to only do each step once and minimize costs/effort, and I don't have an engine build in the mix (yet lol). Hang in there!
Thanks, glad to know other GTR owners feel the same way. I see that you have a UA-cam channel too. Just subscribed and nice driving on the track by the way.👍
Honestly I thought it was going to more than that, but 2800ish for all that, also gives me an idea for my 2j costs, keep vids going! And I can’t wait to see your R32 again
Oh hey Matt, you still planning on bringing your 2J to John's? Personally I was happy with that price and I was glad to pay John and his wife for their high attention to detail work they provide. I also can wait to see your cars running together again! Thanks for watching.
@@JDMRightHandDrive yes I’m saving up for pistons and arp head studs. I don’t need to do as much as you did. So it shouldn’t be to much, but I still Gotta take apart my short block, and I was re use the bnib bearings in there. I don’t need bore honing or anything like that. And in may I will be going back to dyno, fixed my spark issue. And get you some numbers for comparison. And as always, if you need set of extra hands just let me know.
Josh, I think I like the numbers I see at 3:59 but I want to make sure I understand them correctly. I think the black printed numbers are the factory original spec for bearing oil clearance, and the red hand-written numbers are the actual clearances he got in the end. So you'll have about .0035" clearances on the main bearings and about .0027" clearances on the rod bearings. Right? If so, this is good and this is what I've been talking about. These clearances need to be bigger than stock, and that is what he has given you. Along with this you use thick oil, like 20w50, 15w50, or 10w60, which you've been doing already anyway. BTW, "mag the block" usually means Magnaflux. Magnetic particle inspection for cracks. Which is something you can do with iron and steel, like your block is. I think the $ charges are very reasonable, not high at all. This looks to me like really good work.
This is how a build should be done, with quality parts and machining, can’t wait to see her up and running with some boost
You and me both brother. I am dreaming of hearing that turbo flutter when coming off boost for the first time! Thanks for watching and for your support.
Machining is expensive. Guess I have to save up for another year or just save up for the cast PRP block. I look forward to the build. You have always been thorough. I still go back to your older videos on doing stuff to the RB26. I think if you change out the front open diff with an LSD, it evenly distributes the front torque and prevent the twisting.
The front diff is defiantly something I have been thinking of addressing while I have the engine out of the car and everything is apart. I am going to talk with the boys at Intec Racing about different options. Glad to hear some of my old videos are still helping fellow GTR owners. I really wanted to buy a brand new PRP brand new cast block, but that was way out of my budget right now. But how awesome that those guys spent all the time and money to develop a new and improved RB26 cast block. I cant wait to see what kind of builds they do in Australia with those new engines. See you on the next video!
Good stuff!
I know the feeling with getting overwhelmed with a build. My R33 trans blew up and the next day I told myself, nows the time to make the car owning wanted.
I'm now painting the car on my own and getting my motor built. It has been a time, but it's rewarding.
You're going down the rt path. Keep it going!
🔥🔥🔥 loving this build . I own a stagea 260rs with a built rb26 so looking at yours motivates me to tackle on a few things on my own - Migz
Thanks Migz, the positive feedback from all you boys in the GTR community has been amazing. Heck yeah on owning a Stagea 260RS with a built RB too. I have only seen about 3 of those in the wild so far. I am a huge fan of the Stagea. Glad to hear you enjoy my videos and thanks for watching - Josh
@@JDMRightHandDrive haha that’s dope. Trust me I wish I had gotten an R32 gtr but these prices now, plus having kids that enjoy my crazy hobby it was the best choice hahah speedwgn aka the DadWGN 😂🍻 hopefully we could link up this season planning on head down to Texas in November for the R meet, all the way from north of Boston 😎🍻
I feel ya on being overwhelmed. Lately I've spent days just sitting and writing to plot out the order of operations on my car, trying to hammer out the best way to only do each step once and minimize costs/effort, and I don't have an engine build in the mix (yet lol). Hang in there!
Thanks, glad to know other GTR owners feel the same way. I see that you have a UA-cam channel too. Just subscribed and nice driving on the track by the way.👍
@@JDMRightHandDrive thank you! really appreciate your attention to detail, your videos have already helped me multiple times with planning/decisions.
Beautiful man! Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much Tim, more GTR videos coming soon to my channel.
Nice to see some progress with your GTR. Thanks for the video.
Keep up the great content, always informative.
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching.
Honestly I thought it was going to more than that, but 2800ish for all that, also gives me an idea for my 2j costs, keep vids going! And I can’t wait to see your R32 again
Oh hey Matt, you still planning on bringing your 2J to John's? Personally I was happy with that price and I was glad to pay John and his wife for their high attention to detail work they provide. I also can wait to see your cars running together again! Thanks for watching.
@@JDMRightHandDrive yes I’m saving up for pistons and arp head studs. I don’t need to do as much as you did. So it shouldn’t be to much, but I still
Gotta take apart my short block, and I was re use the bnib bearings in there. I don’t need bore honing or anything like that. And in may I will be going back to dyno, fixed my spark issue. And get you some numbers for comparison. And as always, if you need set of extra hands just let me know.
Josh, I think I like the numbers I see at 3:59 but I want to make sure I understand them correctly. I think the black printed numbers are the factory original spec for bearing oil clearance, and the red hand-written numbers are the actual clearances he got in the end.
So you'll have about .0035" clearances on the main bearings and about .0027" clearances on the rod bearings. Right? If so, this is good and this is what I've been talking about. These clearances need to be bigger than stock, and that is what he has given you. Along with this you use thick oil, like 20w50, 15w50, or 10w60, which you've been doing already anyway.
BTW, "mag the block" usually means Magnaflux. Magnetic particle inspection for cracks. Which is something you can do with iron and steel, like your block is.
I think the $ charges are very reasonable, not high at all. This looks to me like really good work.
This is why I’m hoping PRP just sells a long block assembled in the future lol. It’ll be pricey but it’ll be ready to go
Got any old parts you're getting rid of?