Great to see the Kingpin removal was easy for you. When I tried to do it and I was hammering it out I ended up flattening some of the bolt threads. I had to rethread the king pin.
I have the same Jaimie O’Brien deck and I love it and the 78 durometer wheels also but I leave the stock CX bushings. Since I’ve been surf skating now at least two years when I tried softer bushings, so we get hung up and jackknife on sidewalk, imperfections and cracks and any kind of debris I might come across maybe at a slow pace, and I got banged up a little bit, so I’m about 156 pounds Stock bushings so far so good in fact, I didn’t even touch them or adjust them when I bought the very brand new lighter CX trucks that come in different colors. I just left the factory setting and so far so good..
Hello, new to the Surfskate scene. I have a Carver CX with yellow riptides with one pink street side front truck, all yellow in the rear. I upgraded the pivot cups as well. It feels super surfy and great but have noticed after a session, the front trucks are super lose and I dare say janky. Is this normal for Carver trucks? Just for reference I have the nut just slightly tight below the top of the kingpin. Oh and I weight aboutt 150 and a fairly aggressive rider. Thanks for any tips you can give me!
I love being able to flip out different durometers top and bottom. With my new CX trucks I would to get the right feel between surf and skate. I want to be able to carve deeply, Ollie, Board slide, and keep that sketchily landed Boneless. I tried to take my YOW Miraki out for just a normal ride and they were sketchy. Oklahoma roads are not really smooth and the Mirakis keeps wanting to jackknife.
Have you tried running stiffer bushings on the rear of the Meraki? The Meraki will jackknife/nosedive when the rear trucks are too loose. Tightening up the rear or stiffer rear bushings greatly reduces or eliminates it. The Meraki also responds extremely well to rear biased weight placement when riding and keeping slightly more weight to the rear of the board.
@@MrParacristo Cool, let me know how it works/feels for you. With stiffer or tightened bushings on the rear you will get rear wheel lift a little sooner, so its really a matter of fine tuning the Meraki setup to find the sweet spot of compromise between the amount of rear wheel lift that is acceptable to you during hard sharp turning to achieve the amount of front stability/lessened nosedive that feels acceptable to you. Once you get the Meraki dialed in with truck bushing tuning, it is amazing. One thing to also note is that the longer the board, the less of an issue nosedive is. The Meraki on 35"-45" longboards is pretty awesome to add to the quiver.
Nice video. I'm about to swap out my stock CX bushings for yellow rip rides but cone barrel on the rear. I am looking buying that deck or a KL lava, which I believe is the same shape, for transition/bowl with 60/90 rat bones. But deck measurements don't tell you the width at the nose and tail where your feet would sit. Is super annoying just giving the widest point as it's pretty irrelevant. Anyone know or could measure please??
Great to see the Kingpin removal was easy for you. When I tried to do it and I was hammering it out I ended up flattening some of the bolt threads. I had to rethread the king pin.
With the pink and the blue one she almost had a wheelbite. Its a nice theme for a video. Cheers from Brazil
I have the same Jaimie O’Brien deck and I love it and the 78 durometer wheels also but I leave the stock CX bushings. Since I’ve been surf skating now at least two years when I tried softer bushings, so we get hung up and jackknife on sidewalk, imperfections and cracks and any kind of debris I might come across maybe at a slow pace, and I got banged up a little bit, so I’m about 156 pounds Stock bushings so far so good in fact, I didn’t even touch them or adjust them when I bought the very brand new lighter CX trucks that come in different colors. I just left the factory setting and so far so good..
Hello, new to the Surfskate scene. I have a Carver CX with yellow riptides with one pink street side front truck, all yellow in the rear. I upgraded the pivot cups as well. It feels super surfy and great but have noticed after a session, the front trucks are super lose and I dare say janky. Is this normal for Carver trucks? Just for reference I have the nut just slightly tight below the top of the kingpin. Oh and I weight aboutt 150 and a fairly aggressive rider. Thanks for any tips you can give me!
I love being able to flip out different durometers top and bottom. With my new CX trucks I would to get the right feel between surf and skate. I want to be able to carve deeply, Ollie, Board slide, and keep that sketchily landed Boneless. I tried to take my YOW Miraki out for just a normal ride and they were sketchy. Oklahoma roads are not really smooth and the Mirakis keeps wanting to jackknife.
Have you tried running stiffer bushings on the rear of the Meraki? The Meraki will jackknife/nosedive when the rear trucks are too loose. Tightening up the rear or stiffer rear bushings greatly reduces or eliminates it. The Meraki also responds extremely well to rear biased weight placement when riding and keeping slightly more weight to the rear of the board.
@ I have not… what a great suggestion. I have no clue why I didn’t think of this
@@MrParacristo Cool, let me know how it works/feels for you. With stiffer or tightened bushings on the rear you will get rear wheel lift a little sooner, so its really a matter of fine tuning the Meraki setup to find the sweet spot of compromise between the amount of rear wheel lift that is acceptable to you during hard sharp turning to achieve the amount of front stability/lessened nosedive that feels acceptable to you. Once you get the Meraki dialed in with truck bushing tuning, it is amazing. One thing to also note is that the longer the board, the less of an issue nosedive is. The Meraki on 35"-45" longboards is pretty awesome to add to the quiver.
Quero um desses ❤😊
Nice video. I'm about to swap out my stock CX bushings for yellow rip rides but cone barrel on the rear. I am looking buying that deck or a KL lava, which I believe is the same shape, for transition/bowl with 60/90 rat bones. But deck measurements don't tell you the width at the nose and tail where your feet would sit. Is super annoying just giving the widest point as it's pretty irrelevant. Anyone know or could measure please??
🤙🏽⚡️🤟🏽⚡️👌🏽
*Yewwh!*