Hot glue works great for me. It can also release with rubbing alcohol if you ever need to re-do things. You have to use good sticks (the clearer they are, the better) - Also, you can't put it on too hot or it melts the foam. I found squirting it out on a plate, then smearing it on the foam with a plastic knife works very well.
Sounds like a solid solution. I've used a mess of Hot glue when I was building those Flitetest Foamboard planes. Great glue for sure. Like all adhesives, they have their pros and cons.. Good to have a handful of options in the shop for different applications. Thanks for sharing.. - Will
@@SteffenRC Hi! i have a problem. last time i got a pretty bad landing and one of the landing gear fell off so what would be the best glue for foam to plastic? (also a glue that doesn't melt the foam when i use it to glue plastic to foam. Thx for reading i hope you know the answer!
What a great test and so many good comments added by users. THANKS everone ! On my channel I will be flying Over Dover ! Next few weeks I will be building the BAE Hawk minimum RC. Happy flying, building and repairing! 🛫🛩✈🛬
Hi Will. Thought I would give you a note about one of my experiences. I was getting ready to repair one of my planes with E 6000 for the first time. I noticed online that people were saying that E 6000 tended to dissolve foam. Hmmm. So to be a bit safer, I grabbed a surplus piece of foam and ran a test with it. After it set up I tried to pull my test piece apart. Seemed OK at first but then came apart. Ooops. The surfaces where I had smeared some glue were cratered significantly. And there were little ridge like areas between the craters. And it seems that only these areas of the ridges were still touching the other side. So this ended up having very little surface area holding the two parts together. When I applied the glue, I tried to smear it fairly light. But there were a few more wet areas. So, it seems I used a bit too much. But still . . . I really don't think I had a great deal of glue in there. Any less glue, and I would not feel like I really used enough to do the job. I think there must be different types of foam. And it seems the ex - P 51 parts that you tested with are better able to work with E 6000. So, . . . I am sorry that this worked out this way. Guess I will need to try something else. Maybe I will just try more foam tac. Thanks.
I found out the hard way on my UMX Timber. It’s EPS foam. Not EPO. E6000 will eat EPS foam like crazy. I think I’m gonna make a video with that warning…. I found that Foamtac works great for EPS foam.
Great test. One thing you could do to addend this video is cost per oz or unit. I switched from FoamTac to E6000 a year back because E6000 is readily available at Walmart or Home Depot whereas FoamTac is specialty glue found only at hobby stores PLUS E6000 is soooo much cheaper.
E6000...will use on next model..foam tac always been a favorite..it can be sliced with blade for removal of parts for repairing ..hot glue,,hahaha ,,will be using !!! thanks for video !
I'll still use the foamtac for a minor repair at the field. It sets up fast enough.. The E6000 really surprised me at the performance. Hot glue too.. But I need to figure out how to use it without is oozing out everywhere. Thanks for watching and commenting. - Will
E6000 is my favorite and also favorite overall for multiple RC hobby uses. I use it for holding receivers in place (just a small pea sized dab works). It has a good bit of self leveling character, if you take an old gift card or similar you can lay on a very thin skimm coat over foam and it adds abrasion resistance. Great for gluing down shelf liner for battery anti-slide. Some people even ust it by itself to stop battery slippage, just lay some strips down where battery will rest and it will prevent slipppage as good or better than shelf liner, though I prefer using it with shelf liner as it looks nicer. If using it for this then be sure to let it cure for at least 72 hours. It also works similar to foam-tac where if you can get a really thin layer down in a cracked foam hinge seam it will act has a flexible hinge, just has to be as thin a coat as possible so be cautios doing this, maybe practice on test piece first. I posted video feww weeks ago ov initial repair to nose using E6000. Still need to post follow-ups of completed repair. Thanks and remember to "Never stop theRC". (thanks, Discover RC Channel.)
Great tips.. Appreciate it.. I just did a skim coat on some ply before installing a AR631 RX to make sure it will stay in place.. Who knew E6000 has so many uses.. :-)
I correct: SUPER AWESOME :) (I was on the car before) I found your channel last year by coincidence about the Turbo Timber. Since then I have crashed a lot (of Edfs primarly). First I got one Uhu POR used for the Turbo TImber and for the TT Umx. Then I ddnt want to pay so much so got E6000, B7000 and lately E8000. Probably all very similar varying the quantity of hard particles and tacking time. What I also did with the Turbo Timber was to reinforce the plastic motor holder to the carbon bars (sweet design with the bars) with an grey 2K epoxy cement (like for metal tubes). That got super hard. I crashed again on the nose and nothing broke again .) But I loose my path. I have done similar experiences as you. I don´t like CA because it doesn´t glues so good. My FunCub has unglued some parts. Super to know that the E6000 works so good in comparison. So I can stay on E8000. I was quite amazed about the hot glue! I have used it a couple of times for some small parts but it looks super also! This weekend I soldered my first Molicel 6S LiIon pack with a special geometry for the small 70 and 64mm planes, As I did not have a 3D printed holder I used Hot Glue to fix the batteries and let a couple of mm inbetween for ventilation. I worked super good and they bonded really hard. I´ll try that maybe on my stalled Viper 70mm 15th Anniversary from Saturday :( Wing is ready but fuse looks ugly. I got a hard accordeon crash :P ---- I have just used too much E8000 to fill cracks or to bond so that you see the foam pop out on the top and bottom. But this time the damage is so extensive that I will use again the heat gun, a good portion of glue E8000 (and hot glue, but it´s more heavy) and afterwards filler, paint and clear cote (EzeKote or Foam Finish, both from Deluxe Materials).... This was a great video :D
Great test. I would like to see foam to foam against e6000 and fms glue mentioned in here. So long as you give it the time needed to cure, e6000 is a winner. It’s very strong but tends to melt/soften the epo a little whilst curing 🇬🇧👍🏻
Great information.I like E6000.I used it to hold my radar detector bracket on the windshield of my car.I never thought of using it on my Foam Flight V900.I generally use zap 5 minute epoxy and medium CA.
I like the contact cements (e6000, Foamtac, Uhu) since they are a little flexible. CA is great, but a bit brittle. Thanks for watching and commenting. - Will
Ha.. Love it.. I realized after the test that there are so many options for us for Quality adhesives.. From hot glue to CA and everything in between.. I think an assortment of tools (glues) in the shop is very handy...
Awesome test, so glade you dud this. I've been using E6000 for a long time and foam tac almost got talked into swit hing to gorilla but use it sometimes but not for big repairs.
Funny, I use 4-5 different glues, depending on the application. Its always good to know how and why to use each of them.. I was always wondering, so I did the test.. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks.. I made 3 of these videos to test different adhesives. E6000 is wonderful for major repairs, a little goes a long way. It will melt/weld the foam together, so using too much will show a scar on the repair. I'll brush on a little to both pieces, trying to NOT get glue squeezing out the sides. Hot glue is handy stuff too...
Thanks for doing this comparison. I didn’t see you try any Foam to Foam.. I assume Foam Tac would about the closest. e6000 surprised me on its overall versatility. Gonna order me some now to have on hand.
Thanks for the heads up. I'm curious as which of the chapters didn't have sound.. When I watch it, the sound is fine. But, I know there are a few chapters that were only on the LEFT Stereo channel, so if you listen with just the right or left earbud, you might miss it. (I currently try to record in MONO mode to eliminate this issue...). Thanks again for watching - Will
One thing I noticed with foam tac, is it gets really solid and strong after a week or two. Globs almost feel like plastic. Try letting it set up for much longer, and see what you think. Hot glue is my go to for major repairs.
I agree with FoamTac.. I've used hot glue too. I really like it for that quick repair that I can't find a way to clamp it.. I've also used it for a tack when using E6000. I'll hot glue a few small spots to hold it while the E6000 does its job.. So many glues, so few crashed planes..😬
There's a glue that fms sells it's for epo. It's kinda neat smells like e6000 but it's a bit runnier and it kinda foams up. I forgot I'd bought it and tried it shortly after you posted this video. Doesn't seem to melt the foam like e6000 does sometimes either
Great test! Thanks SteffenRC! I have used 5 minutes Epoxi and have had excellent results. But I was impressed with the good result of the E600. I'll use it next time.
An interesting video for model plane fliers/crashers. Probably should have made more mention of the different types of foam (EPS, EPO, EPP) and the differences in the glues that can be used with them. For the flexible EPP the contact cement glues like E6000 are good as they can flex with the foam. Hard brittle glues like Superglue and Epoxy negate the survivability of the flexible foam. Hot glue is also good as it tends to burn through the mould-release compound that is often left on EPP. As you mention it does tend to set too fast and squish out where it's not wanted but for parts that can be quickly and cleanly repositioned you can wipe off the excess with scrap or tape the join on 1 side to limit egress. It adds weight but, if you go easy, probably less than you might think. For the EPO used on many bigger planes, you've got to be careful with contact cements as, depending on the proportions of the different polymers in the mix, there will be at least some softening of the foam whilst the Toluene etc solvents are evaporating off. For the brittle beer-cooler foam EPS used on E-flite's small planes, contact cements are a complete no-no unless you want a gooey mess! But, because it is fairly rigid, Superglue and Epoxy have a place. The snot-like glue that most Chinese makers use on their models might not be the best for every circumstance, but it generally sticks well enough plus can be sliced and peeled off when you need to separate the parts for maintenance.
Thanks for the comments. I did a follow-up "Part 2" video on this were a speak about the foams. One thing to note is FoamTac, Uhu Por, and Foam2Foam do a good job on EPS foam. They don't eat it like other adhesives. I tend to stay away from the brittle CA and Epoxy on foam, but its perfect for balsa.... Thanks again for watching and commenting - Will
Glad you liked it. It was a pretty enlightening test for me. Was surprised that Foamtac didn't do nearly as well as the E6000.. That said, there are reasons to use many of these glues... Thanks, Will
All around best glue I have found. JBW epoxy for plastic. This is my structural go to. Especially when adding carbon fiber or glass cloth reinforcements. I also us it for new models. Whatever main components need bonded. I usually only use hot glue fir things I probably need to take apart at some point..
I haven't tried that epoxy.. Recently, I used some West Systems Gflex epoxy and it is very nice.. Holds well and has a bit of flex to it... Which I think lends itself to our hobby...
Thanks Peter.. I was really hoping that my "Go To" Foam Tac would've been top dog.. Also really surprised at the performance of the Hot Glue.. But, in the end.. E6000 will be my go to for now.. Who knows, maybe there is a glue out there I didnt test thats the cats meow.... Thanks for watching and commenting. Will
A excellent adhesive specifically for foam is TensorGrip, it is a spray and bonds instantly. Another is called Sta’Put. These are similar in function but I like the TensorGrip slightly better. These are more effective than anything shown in this video. They are not well known outside manufacturing industries that use foam. I sculpt foam for theme park and miniature golf scenery. I have started cutting airfoils and building airplanes with some of the enormous amount of scrap I have access to.
Really interesting... Do they come in a non-spray form? I think it would be hard to spray the adhesive on the broken area of a fuselage without getting it all over the other parts without masking... Or can the spray be concentrated on a small part? I'm thinking of the times I've use that #77 spray adhesive and its a mess....
@@SteffenRC that is a valid observation, spray can be problematic on small parts. I find the spray can version to be pretty reasonable to aim and control, and is better at ‘dosage’ than what I use in my workplace, which is a 30 pound tank connected to a spray gun. That is quite tricky to use sparingly. I have gotten practiced and rarely use masking, when I do it is not overly complicated, just laying a piece of scrap cardboard or foam over the adjacent zones I want to keep clean. Fortunately, if glue does get on an unwanted area, it can be wiped away (rolled away is probably more accurate) if it is applied heavily, wet, it is actually easier to roll off than when it is a fine dry mist. The adhesive makes a poor bond when applied to one surface or when the parts make contact while the glue is still wet, this is how I do a repositionable bond. But when both surfaces are sprayed and some air is blown across it, it slightly inflates and tacks up. Once the semi-dry glue surfaces are put in contact with each other the bond is immediate and not repositionable. So glue overspray is generally weak and removable whereas glue on two surfaces is trouble
One thing to be aware of . I used E6000 on one of my models on the servo to connect it to the foam. It was so sticky that I broke and had to dig up the servo from the model to use it. It sticks extremely well but if you have to replace the item or have to take it off in the future its going to destroy said item. That's why I switched to FoamTac for items that may need to be replaced in the future but hold well enough for general use.
Thanks Ricky. Appreciate the comments. It was a fun project to see which was the best for what application.. Its really helped me on builds since that project... Will
100%... I've created my process with E6000 to apply sparingly and use a brush if possible to spread a thin coat, but don't spread it to the outside edge since it will melt the foam a bit and leave a visible scar. The melting makes for a great bond, but as you said, It can melt the heck out of it if you use too much. Appreciate the comments... - Will
Hot glue is my go to, the trick to plastic is prep.....the plastic has to be scuffed with sandpaper, or scratched up a bit with a sharp object, to give the hot glue something to grab onto. I picked up a small 150w inverter to run a hot glue gun at the field. And if/when you have squeeze out, give it 10-15 seconds to start cooling and it'll roll off without leaving a trace.
Those are some great tips for Hot Glue. I'll try out that "roll off" technique. Hot glue makes a super strong bond and no clamping required. So, its got a spot in my tool box for sure... Thanks Will
Thanks Pat.. I just worked on an EPP plane for a friend and used 4 different adhesives. E6000 for most of the joints due to strength, Hot glue, due to strong and quick/no clamping bond. CA for wood to wood and some foamtac for quick tack down... Its great to have options...
@@SteffenRC Nice! That’s awesome. I am old and all my previous RC models were all balsa. This whole foam thing is new to me. At first glance it seems to me like it’s hard to even find balsa models.
I use FoamTac on all my foam hinges. Works great for that. For everything else, it's Gorilla hot glue. Stuff is super strong and bites in the foam great.
We are lucky, we have so many options for adhesives.. I recently posted a Part 2 of this video and tested Welders and Foam2Foam. I've been playing with the welders lately and kinda like it for foam hinges.. It's easier to apply than Foamtac.. But, they are work pretty well...
Thanks, appreciate the kudos... Foam-tac still has a place in my shop for sure. It works on EPS foam and it tacks up quick.. Great stuff.. The E6000 is my go to on EPO and EPP foam that I need a little extra strength and longer setup times. Its has some down sides, but if used sparingly, its wonderful stuff.. Cheap too... BTW, I did Part 2 to this test with a few other glues that I wanted to compare with E6000 and Foam-tac..
I have two other glue needs that you may be able to share some insight on, if you don't mind. 1. I use silicone adhesive to attach replacement RX boards and motors in my UMX airplanes, like the Sports Cub S. It works OK but I am wondering if there is something available more like the beige colored adhesive used by the HobbyZone/Eflite factories? Any suggestions? 2. I am tired of closing my UMX fuselages with scotch tape after an internal repair. I am looking for a light duty adhesive that would be easily slit or removed for access to the inside of the fuselage but will be invisible from the outside of the airplane. Any thoughts on this?
@@gobarbless3871 I really don’t have a great answer on your 1st question. Sorry. I’ll do a little research though. On question 2. I use Foamtac on those EPS fuselage. I only cut the tape on the starboard side, then apply a few (4-5) small dots from the back to the front of the fuse and that seems to hold things together and I can use a razor blade to separate the seem. I thought about applying a small sharpie dot where I applied the Foamtac to assist in the process. But haven’t had to crack open a UMX lately. Good luck.
Never tried Welder.. I assume a bunch of these contact cements like Foam Tac, UHU Por, Welder and E6000 are very similar.. I'm going to extend my tests and do another summary video of a few other glues compared to E6000. I'm always looking for the best. Thanks, Will
Gorilla hot glue and done , Walmart 1.18 cents for a pack of 10 , glued right there in the field and when back flying after a quick bake and at home carbon fiber spars or Thoth pick
Yep, there are so many great options depending on what you are trying to do.. I'd like to get a field glue gun that runs on a 4-6s battery.... Thanks Will
Awesome, I use E6000 for all sorts of stuff and I also have hot glue. Glad I don't need to use CA. I actually don't like it because I find it messier than the other two options.
One downside I noticed with E6000 is it can really eat through a lot of foam if you use too much. Found it too easy to accidentally damage the model when using it. Uhu Por's behavior depends a lot on how you apply it. If you do the whole thing where you stick the parts together, pull them apart, wait a few minutes, then stick them together again, it creates a strong bond in a few minutes to an hour. (Depends a lot on how long you waited between the first and last steps.) Whereas if you just put on a glob and stick them together, it can take several days to fully solidify. Curious what was the procedure you used in these tests?
I agree, E6000 should be lightly brushed on the surface.. Not globbed all over. I also stay away from the outside edges due to that area getting real soft as the glue melts the foam together. In the test with Uhu Por I followed the directions and let the two pieces sit for 10min after mating them for a second or two. I'm sure its a quality adhesive and will use it for some applications. But was surprised that it was still tacky after 48 hours.
This is true and will act similar to foam tac you have to be careful about using it on thin foam like say you were gluing a piece with perhaps less than about 5 mm thicknessyou can get a bit of alligator effect as the solvents or whatever can bleed through but simple enough to avoid.
Instead of 15 min epoxy, try with 30 min epoxy. According to the description of the BSI-Inc epoxy the 30 min version is the best epoxy for white foam (maybe slower will even be better, but I like the processing time with 30 min epoxy).
I'll try that out. I'm always looking for different ways to fix planes. Last rebuild I used 4 different glues for different applications. 30min is on the list of play with. Thanks, Will
Yep, E6000 isn't for everything.. Hot glue is good too. I will use several adhesives for some of my repairs.. So, many good options... Thanks for commenting - Will
Very thorough test Will! I need some E6000. Very informative, thanks for taking the time to do this. Quite a great service to the RC community my friend!
Good point about the weight, but a sparing amount wouldn’t effect those planes too much. That said, I used Foamtac for my Crack Yak and she’s been banged around a fair bit.
@@senseisecurityschool9337 Wow, no kidding. I've never heard of anyone using that on a foam plane. I would assume, it needs to soak into the material (wood) while it can't soak/saturate foam. I use it on balsa often... I'll try it out though.. Heck, I'll try anything.. I've made 3 of these glue videos.. Maybe I can show off a few more glues.... Thanks Will
@@SteffenRC That would be cool if you get a chance to compare PVA. Generally, true glues such as hot glue, epoxy, super glue, and white PVA don't function primarily by "soaking in". They function around something called surface energy - they bond to surfaces. Hot glue is sometimes made of PVA. Wet PVA doesn't need to "soak in" any more than melted PVA (hot glue) does. Two big differences between hot glue (melted PVA) vs white glue (wet PVA) is that with hot glue, it can be difficult to avoid putting on too much. Since the wet version (white glue) is runnier and has water that evaporates, it's a lot easier to put on a more reasonable amount. But you have to wait for it to dry. Contrast solvent-based cements which dissolve a bit of the plastic, which is a different mode of function than glues.
I've done 3 glue videos in the last year. Testing all types of glues for our repairs.. The last test, I tried the Gorilla Glue White, which is a Polyurethane glue. It really performed well and the foaming action could be helpful to fill the gaps of missing foam... Thanks for commenting. Will
To be honest, I couldn’t tell you. Probably some generic stuff from Amazon. I’ve used hot glue on foam board for a few years with different sticks. Didn’t seem to matter
Guys, please be careful with E6000. It dissolves at least some foams. I was replasing servo in my A-10 30mm from E-flghht, it got almost through hole in the fuselage with E6000. So, i had some fun fixing the servo set place after that.
@@difand1 I made a few comments on my community posts and also made a Part 2 of the glue tests, and mention it there. I learned the hard way too. My UMX Timber got a little melted with E6000. 😬
I recommend don't buy a foam plane. Think I spend an hour repairing for every 30 minutes. Today,...... broke the motor mount and cracked mid fuselage The other cheap plane started making a whistling noise as the gearbox fell apart . The third plane ok, it flew until flat. Model railroad is starting look a cheaper good idea.
Well Chuck, Learning to fly these planes takes some work to get over the rough part you appear to be in.. We've all been in your shoes.. Check-out my beginner series on the SteffenRC Channel. Keep heart and keep practicing.. - Will
Hot glue works great for me. It can also release with rubbing alcohol if you ever need to re-do things.
You have to use good sticks (the clearer they are, the better) - Also, you can't put it on too hot or it melts the foam. I found squirting it out on a plate, then smearing it on the foam with a plastic knife works very well.
Sounds like a solid solution. I've used a mess of Hot glue when I was building those Flitetest Foamboard planes. Great glue for sure. Like all adhesives, they have their pros and cons.. Good to have a handful of options in the shop for different applications. Thanks for sharing.. - Will
@@SteffenRC Hi!
i have a problem.
last time i got a pretty bad landing and one of the landing gear fell off so what would be the best glue for foam to plastic? (also a glue that doesn't melt the foam when i use it to glue plastic to foam.
Thx for reading
i hope you know the answer!
What a great test and so many good comments added by users. THANKS everone ! On my channel I will be flying Over Dover ! Next few weeks I will be building the BAE Hawk minimum RC. Happy flying, building and repairing! 🛫🛩✈🛬
Thanks. Appreciate the comments... Look forward to your BAE build.
Hi Will. Thought I would give you a note about one of my experiences. I was getting ready to repair one of my planes with E 6000 for the first time. I noticed online that people were saying that E 6000 tended to dissolve foam. Hmmm. So to be a bit safer, I grabbed a surplus piece of foam and ran a test with it. After it set up I tried to pull my test piece apart. Seemed OK at first but then came apart. Ooops. The surfaces where I had smeared some glue were cratered significantly. And there were little ridge like areas between the craters. And it seems that only these areas of the ridges were still touching the other side. So this ended up having very little surface area holding the two parts together.
When I applied the glue, I tried to smear it fairly light. But there were a few more wet areas. So, it seems I used a bit too much. But still . . . I really don't think I had a great deal of glue in there. Any less glue, and I would not feel like I really used enough to do the job. I think there must be different types of foam. And it seems the ex - P 51 parts that you tested with are better able to work with E 6000. So, . . . I am sorry that this worked out this way. Guess I will need to try something else. Maybe I will just try more foam tac. Thanks.
I found out the hard way on my UMX Timber. It’s EPS foam. Not EPO. E6000 will eat EPS foam like crazy. I think I’m gonna make a video with that warning…. I found that Foamtac works great for EPS foam.
Great test. One thing you could do to addend this video is cost per oz or unit.
I switched from FoamTac to E6000 a year back because E6000 is readily available at Walmart or Home Depot whereas FoamTac is specialty glue found only at hobby stores PLUS E6000 is soooo much cheaper.
I could add that in my notes for sure.
E6000...will use on next model..foam tac always been a favorite..it can be sliced with blade for removal of parts for repairing ..hot glue,,hahaha ,,will be using !!! thanks for video !
I'll still use the foamtac for a minor repair at the field. It sets up fast enough.. The E6000 really surprised me at the performance. Hot glue too.. But I need to figure out how to use it without is oozing out everywhere. Thanks for watching and commenting. - Will
E6000 is my favorite and also favorite overall for multiple RC hobby uses. I use it for holding receivers in place (just a small pea sized dab works). It has a good bit of self leveling character, if you take an old gift card or similar you can lay on a very thin skimm coat over foam and it adds abrasion resistance. Great for gluing down shelf liner for battery anti-slide. Some people even ust it by itself to stop battery slippage, just lay some strips down where battery will rest and it will prevent slipppage as good or better than shelf liner, though I prefer using it with shelf liner as it looks nicer. If using it for this then be sure to let it cure for at least 72 hours. It also works similar to foam-tac where if you can get a really thin layer down in a cracked foam hinge seam it will act has a flexible hinge, just has to be as thin a coat as possible so be cautios doing this, maybe practice on test piece first.
I posted video feww weeks ago ov initial repair to nose using E6000. Still need to post follow-ups of completed repair.
Thanks and remember to "Never stop theRC". (thanks, Discover RC Channel.)
Great tips.. Appreciate it.. I just did a skim coat on some ply before installing a AR631 RX to make sure it will stay in place.. Who knew E6000 has so many uses.. :-)
@@SteffenRC Like the other comment said one thing is to be aware if you use it to glue on foam if the foam is thin like maybe
What about 5 min epoxy glue
I correct: SUPER AWESOME :) (I was on the car before) I found your channel last year by coincidence about the Turbo Timber. Since then I have crashed a lot (of Edfs primarly). First I got one Uhu POR used for the Turbo TImber and for the TT Umx. Then I ddnt want to pay so much so got E6000, B7000 and lately E8000. Probably all very similar varying the quantity of hard particles and tacking time. What I also did with the Turbo Timber was to reinforce the plastic motor holder to the carbon bars (sweet design with the bars) with an grey 2K epoxy cement (like for metal tubes). That got super hard. I crashed again on the nose and nothing broke again .) But I loose my path. I have done similar experiences as you. I don´t like CA because it doesn´t glues so good. My FunCub has unglued some parts. Super to know that the E6000 works so good in comparison. So I can stay on E8000. I was quite amazed about the hot glue! I have used it a couple of times for some small parts but it looks super also! This weekend I soldered my first Molicel 6S LiIon pack with a special geometry for the small 70 and 64mm planes, As I did not have a 3D printed holder I used Hot Glue to fix the batteries and let a couple of mm inbetween for ventilation. I worked super good and they bonded really hard. I´ll try that maybe on my stalled Viper 70mm 15th Anniversary from Saturday :( Wing is ready but fuse looks ugly. I got a hard accordeon crash :P ---- I have just used too much E8000 to fill cracks or to bond so that you see the foam pop out on the top and bottom. But this time the damage is so extensive that I will use again the heat gun, a good portion of glue E8000 (and hot glue, but it´s more heavy) and afterwards filler, paint and clear cote (EzeKote or Foam Finish, both from Deluxe Materials).... This was a great video :D
So many options for glues.. Its fun to play around with all of them..
Great test. I would like to see foam to foam against e6000 and fms glue mentioned in here.
So long as you give it the time needed to cure, e6000 is a winner. It’s very strong but tends to melt/soften the epo a little whilst curing 🇬🇧👍🏻
I agree. I think that melting creates that strong bond, once fully solidified. But it’s not quick. I found Foam2Foam on Amazon and it’s real pricey.
Great information.I like E6000.I used it to hold my radar detector bracket on the windshield of my car.I never thought of using it on my Foam Flight V900.I generally use zap 5 minute epoxy and medium CA.
I like the contact cements (e6000, Foamtac, Uhu) since they are a little flexible. CA is great, but a bit brittle. Thanks for watching and commenting. - Will
Excellent. My hot glue gun is just about heated up. Just the info I needed! Thanks.
Ha.. Love it.. I realized after the test that there are so many options for us for Quality adhesives.. From hot glue to CA and everything in between.. I think an assortment of tools (glues) in the shop is very handy...
Awesome test, so glade you dud this. I've been using E6000 for a long time and foam tac almost got talked into swit hing to gorilla but use it sometimes but not for big repairs.
Funny, I use 4-5 different glues, depending on the application. Its always good to know how and why to use each of them.. I was always wondering, so I did the test.. Thanks for commenting.
Excellent practical test Steffen. I use hot glue with a chargeable gun and really like it but have to check out that E6000 also.
Thanks.. I made 3 of these videos to test different adhesives. E6000 is wonderful for major repairs, a little goes a long way. It will melt/weld the foam together, so using too much will show a scar on the repair. I'll brush on a little to both pieces, trying to NOT get glue squeezing out the sides. Hot glue is handy stuff too...
Another great video!! E6000 is order and on it's way.
Appreciate the support. E6000 is my go to for all things foam, except EPS (UMX planes...). It will eat EPS like Alien blood on a space ship.. :-)
Thanks for doing this comparison. I didn’t see you try any Foam to Foam.. I assume Foam Tac would about the closest. e6000 surprised me on its overall versatility. Gonna order me some now to have on hand.
I got a feeling I’ll be doing a Part 2 series. Thanks Will
Very helpful video some of the parts on the clip missing Audio
Thanks for all your help
Thanks for the heads up. I'm curious as which of the chapters didn't have sound.. When I watch it, the sound is fine. But, I know there are a few chapters that were only on the LEFT Stereo channel, so if you listen with just the right or left earbud, you might miss it. (I currently try to record in MONO mode to eliminate this issue...). Thanks again for watching - Will
One thing I noticed with foam tac, is it gets really solid and strong after a week or two. Globs almost feel like plastic.
Try letting it set up for much longer, and see what you think.
Hot glue is my go to for major repairs.
I agree with FoamTac.. I've used hot glue too. I really like it for that quick repair that I can't find a way to clamp it.. I've also used it for a tack when using E6000. I'll hot glue a few small spots to hold it while the E6000 does its job.. So many glues, so few crashed planes..😬
There's a glue that fms sells it's for epo. It's kinda neat smells like e6000 but it's a bit runnier and it kinda foams up. I forgot I'd bought it and tried it shortly after you posted this video. Doesn't seem to melt the foam like e6000 does sometimes either
I have a feeling a Part 2 test is coming 😀
Great test! Thanks for sharing 🙏🏻
Thanks for watching! Appreciate the comments. - Will
Great test! Thanks SteffenRC! I have used 5 minutes Epoxi and have had excellent results. But I was impressed with the good result of the E600. I'll use it next time.
It’s a great glue. Give it a try. A little goes a long way.
Thanks, great info! I was actually looking for comparisons with UHU POR vs Weldbond but this video is handy nonetheless.
@@ZaksterBlue glad you like it. I’ve done 3 of these glue test videos. I think they are in my Shop Tip playlist. Hope it helps
I did some smaller scale testing with what i had on hand and got pretty good results with speaker foam glue MI-3035.
I've never tried that. I'll take a look at it.
An interesting video for model plane fliers/crashers. Probably should have made more mention of the different types of foam (EPS, EPO, EPP) and the differences in the glues that can be used with them.
For the flexible EPP the contact cement glues like E6000 are good as they can flex with the foam. Hard brittle glues like Superglue and Epoxy negate the survivability of the flexible foam. Hot glue is also good as it tends to burn through the mould-release compound that is often left on EPP. As you mention it does tend to set too fast and squish out where it's not wanted but for parts that can be quickly and cleanly repositioned you can wipe off the excess with scrap or tape the join on 1 side to limit egress. It adds weight but, if you go easy, probably less than you might think.
For the EPO used on many bigger planes, you've got to be careful with contact cements as, depending on the proportions of the different polymers in the mix, there will be at least some softening of the foam whilst the Toluene etc solvents are evaporating off.
For the brittle beer-cooler foam EPS used on E-flite's small planes, contact cements are a complete no-no unless you want a gooey mess! But, because it is fairly rigid, Superglue and Epoxy have a place.
The snot-like glue that most Chinese makers use on their models might not be the best for every circumstance, but it generally sticks well enough plus can be sliced and peeled off when you need to separate the parts for maintenance.
Thanks for the comments. I did a follow-up "Part 2" video on this were a speak about the foams. One thing to note is FoamTac, Uhu Por, and Foam2Foam do a good job on EPS foam. They don't eat it like other adhesives. I tend to stay away from the brittle CA and Epoxy on foam, but its perfect for balsa.... Thanks again for watching and commenting - Will
Thanks for the video. Very helpful and appreciated.
Glad you liked it. It was a pretty enlightening test for me. Was surprised that Foamtac didn't do nearly as well as the E6000.. That said, there are reasons to use many of these glues... Thanks, Will
All around best glue I have found. JBW epoxy for plastic. This is my structural go to. Especially when adding carbon fiber or glass cloth reinforcements. I also us it for new models. Whatever main components need bonded. I usually only use hot glue fir things I probably need to take apart at some point..
I haven't tried that epoxy.. Recently, I used some West Systems Gflex epoxy and it is very nice.. Holds well and has a bit of flex to it... Which I think lends itself to our hobby...
Awesome comparison. Well. Done
Appreciate the comment. Thanks.
I agree with your findings.
Thanks Peter.. I was really hoping that my "Go To" Foam Tac would've been top dog.. Also really surprised at the performance of the Hot Glue.. But, in the end.. E6000 will be my go to for now.. Who knows, maybe there is a glue out there I didnt test thats the cats meow.... Thanks for watching and commenting. Will
A excellent adhesive specifically for foam is TensorGrip, it is a spray and bonds instantly. Another is called Sta’Put. These are similar in function but I like the TensorGrip slightly better. These are more effective than anything shown in this video. They are not well known outside manufacturing industries that use foam. I sculpt foam for theme park and miniature golf scenery. I have started cutting airfoils and building airplanes with some of the enormous amount of scrap I have access to.
TensorGrip P322 or Sta’Put SP2 (the Sta’Put 2001M product also works well)
Really interesting... Do they come in a non-spray form? I think it would be hard to spray the adhesive on the broken area of a fuselage without getting it all over the other parts without masking... Or can the spray be concentrated on a small part? I'm thinking of the times I've use that #77 spray adhesive and its a mess....
@@SteffenRC that is a valid observation, spray can be problematic on small parts. I find the spray can version to be pretty reasonable to aim and control, and is better at ‘dosage’ than what I use in my workplace, which is a 30 pound tank connected to a spray gun. That is quite tricky to use sparingly. I have gotten practiced and rarely use masking, when I do it is not overly complicated, just laying a piece of scrap cardboard or foam over the adjacent zones I want to keep clean. Fortunately, if glue does get on an unwanted area, it can be wiped away (rolled away is probably more accurate) if it is applied heavily, wet, it is actually easier to roll off than when it is a fine dry mist. The adhesive makes a poor bond when applied to one surface or when the parts make contact while the glue is still wet, this is how I do a repositionable bond. But when both surfaces are sprayed and some air is blown across it, it slightly inflates and tacks up. Once the semi-dry glue surfaces are put in contact with each other the bond is immediate and not repositionable. So glue overspray is generally weak and removable whereas glue on two surfaces is trouble
One thing to be aware of . I used E6000 on one of my models on the servo to connect it to the foam. It was so sticky that I broke and had to dig up the servo from the model to use it. It sticks extremely well but if you have to replace the item or have to take it off in the future its going to destroy said item. That's why I switched to FoamTac for items that may need to be replaced in the future but hold well enough for general use.
@@nuddin99 sound advice. I use several different glues for every project. It just depends on the situation and material
Awesome test video !!!
Thanks Ricky. Appreciate the comments. It was a fun project to see which was the best for what application.. Its really helped me on builds since that project... Will
Use caution with the E6000, it will definitely soften the foam and make a mess of things if you use too much.
100%... I've created my process with E6000 to apply sparingly and use a brush if possible to spread a thin coat, but don't spread it to the outside edge since it will melt the foam a bit and leave a visible scar. The melting makes for a great bond, but as you said, It can melt the heck out of it if you use too much. Appreciate the comments... - Will
Hot glue is my go to, the trick to plastic is prep.....the plastic has to be scuffed with sandpaper, or scratched up a bit with a sharp object, to give the hot glue something to grab onto.
I picked up a small 150w inverter to run a hot glue gun at the field. And if/when you have squeeze out, give it 10-15 seconds to start cooling and it'll roll off without leaving a trace.
Those are some great tips for Hot Glue. I'll try out that "roll off" technique. Hot glue makes a super strong bond and no clamping required. So, its got a spot in my tool box for sure... Thanks Will
This video and test are gold! Thank you for doing this! E6000 and hot glue for me! :)
Thanks Pat.. I just worked on an EPP plane for a friend and used 4 different adhesives. E6000 for most of the joints due to strength, Hot glue, due to strong and quick/no clamping bond. CA for wood to wood and some foamtac for quick tack down... Its great to have options...
@@SteffenRC Nice! That’s awesome. I am old and all my previous RC models were all balsa. This whole foam thing is new to me. At first glance it seems to me like it’s hard to even find balsa models.
how long does the e6000 to cure cheers
I use FoamTac on all my foam hinges. Works great for that. For everything else, it's Gorilla hot glue. Stuff is super strong and bites in the foam great.
We are lucky, we have so many options for adhesives.. I recently posted a Part 2 of this video and tested Welders and Foam2Foam. I've been playing with the welders lately and kinda like it for foam hinges.. It's easier to apply than Foamtac.. But, they are work pretty well...
@@SteffenRC I have not tried the Welders yet. I will give it a shot.
@@ChainsawFPV it’s good stuff. But will melt EPS foam. That’s where Foam2Foam and Foamtac are the best.
Very good study! Sorry to see that your P 51 had to buy the farm. Maybe repairing it to flying status would have been a good test. ?
Funny you say that. I have a friends L-39 that’s gonna be my next video. Thanks for the comments. - Will
Very good testing!! I am also a long-time Foam-tac user. I may have to take a closer look at E6000.
Thanks, appreciate the kudos... Foam-tac still has a place in my shop for sure. It works on EPS foam and it tacks up quick.. Great stuff.. The E6000 is my go to on EPO and EPP foam that I need a little extra strength and longer setup times. Its has some down sides, but if used sparingly, its wonderful stuff.. Cheap too... BTW, I did Part 2 to this test with a few other glues that I wanted to compare with E6000 and Foam-tac..
I have two other glue needs that you may be able to share some insight on, if you don't mind.
1. I use silicone adhesive to attach replacement RX boards and motors in my UMX airplanes, like the Sports Cub S. It works OK but I am wondering if there is something available more like the beige colored adhesive used by the HobbyZone/Eflite factories? Any suggestions?
2. I am tired of closing my UMX fuselages with scotch tape after an internal repair. I am looking for a light duty adhesive that would be easily slit or removed for access to the inside of the fuselage but will be invisible from the outside of the airplane. Any thoughts on this?
@@gobarbless3871 sure. Always willing to help..
@@gobarbless3871 I really don’t have a great answer on your 1st question. Sorry. I’ll do a little research though. On question 2. I use Foamtac on those EPS fuselage. I only cut the tape on the starboard side, then apply a few (4-5) small dots from the back to the front of the fuse and that seems to hold things together and I can use a razor blade to separate the seem. I thought about applying a small sharpie dot where I applied the Foamtac to assist in the process. But haven’t had to crack open a UMX lately. Good luck.
In the uk. I use welder. Softens epo just like e6000. Is it the same?
Never tried Welder.. I assume a bunch of these contact cements like Foam Tac, UHU Por, Welder and E6000 are very similar.. I'm going to extend my tests and do another summary video of a few other glues compared to E6000. I'm always looking for the best. Thanks, Will
Thank you very mutch good vid
You're welcome!
Gorilla hot glue and done , Walmart 1.18 cents for a pack of 10 , glued right there in the field and when back flying after a quick bake and at home carbon fiber spars or Thoth pick
Yep, there are so many great options depending on what you are trying to do.. I'd like to get a field glue gun that runs on a 4-6s battery.... Thanks Will
@@SteffenRC you can always plug it to your car wall plug if you have one, if not amazon sell one you connect on car lighter and you have a 120
Awesome, I use E6000 for all sorts of stuff and I also have hot glue. Glad I don't need to use CA. I actually don't like it because I find it messier than the other two options.
Thanks.. I'll use CA or hotglue on certain projects. But not often.. E6000 of one of my favorites for sure.
One downside I noticed with E6000 is it can really eat through a lot of foam if you use too much. Found it too easy to accidentally damage the model when using it.
Uhu Por's behavior depends a lot on how you apply it. If you do the whole thing where you stick the parts together, pull them apart, wait a few minutes, then stick them together again, it creates a strong bond in a few minutes to an hour. (Depends a lot on how long you waited between the first and last steps.) Whereas if you just put on a glob and stick them together, it can take several days to fully solidify. Curious what was the procedure you used in these tests?
I agree, E6000 should be lightly brushed on the surface.. Not globbed all over. I also stay away from the outside edges due to that area getting real soft as the glue melts the foam together.
In the test with Uhu Por I followed the directions and let the two pieces sit for 10min after mating them for a second or two. I'm sure its a quality adhesive and will use it for some applications. But was surprised that it was still tacky after 48 hours.
@@SteffenRC Hm... that's good to know then, thanks.
This is true and will act similar to foam tac you have to be careful about using it on thin foam like say you were gluing a piece with perhaps less than about 5 mm thicknessyou can get a bit of alligator effect as the solvents or whatever can bleed through but simple enough to avoid.
Instead of 15 min epoxy, try with 30 min epoxy. According to the description of the BSI-Inc epoxy the 30 min version is the best epoxy for white foam (maybe slower will even be better, but I like the processing time with 30 min epoxy).
I'll try that out. I'm always looking for different ways to fix planes. Last rebuild I used 4 different glues for different applications. 30min is on the list of play with. Thanks, Will
You can’t use E6000 for Z foam. It dissolves the foam. Hot glue is the strongest and fastest fix. 👍
Happy flying.
Yep, E6000 isn't for everything.. Hot glue is good too. I will use several adhesives for some of my repairs.. So, many good options... Thanks for commenting - Will
Very thorough test Will! I need some E6000. Very informative, thanks for taking the time to do this. Quite a great service to the RC community my friend!
Well. Let’s be honest. It’s all about me and my quest for quality adhesives. 😀. Thanks Adam..
@@SteffenRC Lol
AWESOME!!!!!
great test... !
Thanks. I sure learned a lot by doing this.
Thanks for doing this. Would you build a twisted hobbies plane with the E6000 or do you think it would add too much weight?
Good point about the weight, but a sparing amount wouldn’t effect those planes too much. That said, I used Foamtac for my Crack Yak and she’s been banged around a fair bit.
Great video. I wish PVA (white glue - NOT the washable kind) was included. It's worked well for me.
Hmm. PVA? Like wood glue? Or Polyurethane adhesive (foaming...).
@@SteffenRC White glue, polyvinyl acetate. Which is the same base as wood glue.
@@senseisecurityschool9337 Wow, no kidding. I've never heard of anyone using that on a foam plane. I would assume, it needs to soak into the material (wood) while it can't soak/saturate foam. I use it on balsa often... I'll try it out though.. Heck, I'll try anything.. I've made 3 of these glue videos.. Maybe I can show off a few more glues.... Thanks Will
@@SteffenRC That would be cool if you get a chance to compare PVA. Generally, true glues such as hot glue, epoxy, super glue, and white PVA don't function primarily by "soaking in". They function around something called surface energy - they bond to surfaces. Hot glue is sometimes made of PVA. Wet PVA doesn't need to "soak in" any more than melted PVA (hot glue) does. Two big differences between hot glue (melted PVA) vs white glue (wet PVA) is that with hot glue, it can be difficult to avoid putting on too much. Since the wet version (white glue) is runnier and has water that evaporates, it's a lot easier to put on a more reasonable amount. But you have to wait for it to dry.
Contrast solvent-based cements which dissolve a bit of the plastic, which is a different mode of function than glues.
@@senseisecurityschool9337 Which brand do you use? I'll get some and test....
Try to use Titebond Polyurethane Glue, perfect fot this foam.
I've done 3 glue videos in the last year. Testing all types of glues for our repairs.. The last test, I tried the Gorilla Glue White, which is a Polyurethane glue. It really performed well and the foaming action could be helpful to fill the gaps of missing foam... Thanks for commenting. Will
Have any of you guys tried B7000? I have several small tubes but don't want to use it on foam until im sure.
Nope. Haven’t tried it.
Hi,which one is instant bonding foam to foam
The CA is the only glue that I have which bonds instantly..
which hot glue did you use?
To be honest, I couldn’t tell you. Probably some generic stuff from Amazon. I’ve used hot glue on foam board for a few years with different sticks. Didn’t seem to matter
Thanks for this
Youre welcome. Thanks for leaving a comment. Appreciate it... Will
@@SteffenRC welcome sir🫡
Guys, please be careful with E6000. It dissolves at least some foams. I was replasing servo in my A-10 30mm from E-flghht, it got almost through hole in the fuselage with E6000. So, i had some fun fixing the servo set place after that.
Yes. Those UMX planes are EPS. E6000 Will destroy them. Foamtac or Foam 2Foam are the best for that. E6000 works great on EPO and EPP.
@@SteffenRC Thanks for your advice, I didn't know that!
@@difand1 I made a few comments on my community posts and also made a Part 2 of the glue tests, and mention it there. I learned the hard way too. My UMX Timber got a little melted with E6000. 😬
Because on eflite website it says that both the turbo timber and a-10 30mm are epo
Has any body thought about doing a carbon fiber repair instead of using hot glue
I've used CF Strips on repairs many times. Especially fixing busted fuselage, maybe wings too.. It just depends...
White Gorilla glue is the best and lightest for Foam planes.
I noticed you saw my other video where I test that glue. Its a good tool in the shop for sure. Thanks for commenting
E6000, here I come.
Get while is last. My “viral” video is gonna cause a run on it. 😀
5 MIN EPOXY USED IT MANY TIMES
I’ve used about every type of adhesive. On my last repair. I used 4 different glues for slightly different applications.
I recommend don't buy a foam plane. Think I spend an hour repairing for every 30 minutes.
Today,...... broke the motor mount and cracked mid fuselage
The other cheap plane started making a whistling noise as the gearbox fell apart .
The third plane ok, it flew until flat.
Model railroad is starting look a cheaper good idea.
Well Chuck, Learning to fly these planes takes some work to get over the rough part you appear to be in.. We've all been in your shoes.. Check-out my beginner series on the SteffenRC Channel. Keep heart and keep practicing.. - Will
Please keep the actual subject in center screen Rather than your hands
Making a video on these topics isn't simple for me. I'm just trying to make a video on adhesives.