Great work on the model, but one minor nitpick for future reference since accuracy is what you seem to be aiming for. Thompson slings were canvas and would be the same color as the webbing. Only rifles and BARs had leather ones.
Aah, nuts! I had noticed that there were canvas slings in some photos and films, but it hadn't occurred to me that it was specific to the Thompson. Something to correct the next time around! Thanks for the pointer. :D
Recently used this guide to paint my airborne and must say it made life really easy and gave a great finish. It’s my first paint work in the last 20+ years and super happy with the outcome.
. I,m Scottish . I,m oldish( 58). My Uncle Frank ( regimental pipe band) was in 30 corps. Anyway, this is what I want to say. Last year I took up mini painting ( late,what?) and I asked you a silly question. What is diff between primer / base? You answered courtesously, polite and answered my question.Anyway,since then, I,ve spent ( hundreds?, seems like it ) of hours on mini tutorials. Here,s my conclusion. There are three that rise above the rest. Sorastro, ( super painter, excellent camera detail, explains everything),You , ( Great, fun personality, born pedagogue ( good at teaching) and good painter.) Third, Lukes Aps (Affordable paint service). This guy , a Brummy, shows you how to save money EVERYWHERE in this hobby. Newbies, subscribe to these guys and you,re well on your way. Sincerely, thanks.
Thank you kindly, Anthony. I really appreciate you taking the time to write that one out! I'm always glad to know these little backyard style videos are out there helping anybody with their hobby. Luke's APS is, funnily enough, one of the guys out there on UA-cam that encouraged me to give this a shot myself. I really dig his content, and seeing him go from strength to strength is really nice. Sorastro I'm going to have to check out; that's quite a recommendation! :D
Thanks bud! I think we get hung up on doing things the 'right' way sometimes, and while there's nothing wrong in wanting to excel at something, I figure for a hobby that's supposed to be relaxing and enjoyable it can be worth taking a step back and just going for it with something that'll look close enough.
This is my second box of Bolt Action soldiers. First were basic US Infantry, and now I’m doing these. Your videos are very helpful to someone new to tabletop games and to the hobby of painting minis. Great stuff to know and tips to help in the process.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video (and for all of them, quite frankly). My son and I are dipping our toes into the Bolt Action pool and thanks to this video (as well as the Winter German painting guide), we each have 500+ points built and painted in less than a week to put on the table. Cheers. This is seriously one of the, if not THE, best hobby miniature channels out there.
Really glad to hear it! Excellent choice on armies as well, of course. Sounds like you got started with the Band of Brothers set, which is bonkers good for the US forces in there... those poor Germans do need a few reinforcements to make the most of it. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio we ended up not getting the Band of Brothers starter largely because of the imbalanced forces. Ended up just grabbing a box of plastic US airborne and a box of plastic Winter Grenadiers. Love how low the cost of entry is for the game. My son has added a Panzer IV to his collection (painting it as I type) and I've got a few more paratroopers to get painted up. I've always loved the Red Devils, so may do some British airborne next.
Worryingly, the PzIV might be - point for point - one of the best options available for the German forces. Time to stock up on a couple bazooka teams! ;D
Love the video! The Bolt Action minis look amazing. I really like the webbing with pastel green you used. Looking forward to painting my webbing up using the same colors. As always, a great video and thank you for posting these painting videos.
I would love to see you do a step by step, comparing 25mm and 15mm painting techniques with the same type of figure. So you do two paratroopers or two grenadiers, explaining the paint choices and comparing the end results.
Thanks for sharing this video. The elements where you discuss the variation in the webbing colour was particularly helpful. As you say, it's a bit of a minefield working out decent webbing colours and accurate palette for the M42 and M43 kit.
G'day - I've been watching your channel for some time after getting re-interested in the hobby during the pandemic (after around two decades out of it!). But only recently have I got around to painting some Bolt Action models, using your guides for both the German Grenadiers and US Airborne. I just wanted to say thanks! Your videos are enjoyable to watch, easy to follow, and also really informative about uniforms, and they've helped me build up both my confidence and enjoyment in the hobby again. Keep up the great work.
Me: "Hrm... maybe this video isn't for me...." Video: "And I'm going to throw the miniature violently across the room..." Me: "... okay, maybe I'll stay." Didn't regret it.
I used Army painter's Army green spray primer, as the minuter was predominantly green in order to get a faster role out. I found that Army painters Hemp rope + Mid tone wash are a good colour combo for webbing & backpacks or army painter combat fatigues with Soft tone wash.
I love how UA-cam translates some of these paint names for close captions. Apparently you can shade the miniature with "Eric Shadid". I'm wondering if Eric is a friend of "Anthony Camo Shed". :D
Hello Sonic, I absolutely love these videos! They have inspired me to get back into 40k again and begin painting! By pure coincidence there's a new collection of miniatures that have come out to newsagents recently called Warhammer 40k Conquest which has new minis and paints every week for about $15. I picked the first 3 issues up and it seems decent way to build a Primaris SM and Death Guard army along with some terrain, etc. What are your thoughts on this? Just wondering if there was a chance you could do a week-by-week easy painting guide, it would really help out. Thanks mate and happy Easter.
Hey dude! :D Hope you had a great Easter. I can barely move for all the chocolate I ate! The Conquest magazines are an awesome point for collecting the armies involved. The entire collection saves a fair chunk of money off buying everything 'in the box,' as it were, and there's a couple of really neat exclusives. I wouldn't hesitate to pick a few of them up if they were available near me. Doing anything week-by-week is a little difficult for me, though; short of buying them all myself, I'd very quickly run out of those specific miniatures, and I don't really have the time to dedicate to the same line of miniatures each week without skipping out on something else. The general guides for Ultramarines and Death Guard both will work for most of the miniatures, though I do want to eventually get to some vehicles - I've got a Plagueburst Crawler crying out for some paint... :D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Hey Sonic, thank you so much for letting me know mate, pretty stoked to learn that I'll save some money on these things whilst collecting a decent army, I will look to paint them as you've shown in your videos and look forward to the vehicle session, specifically the Dreads, Plagueburst and Replusor :)
Hi, I'm just getting into Bolt Action for the first time and I was wondering if by 'Russian Uniform' it was the one sold at Vallejo called 'Russian Uniform ww2'
I've been thinking about picking up some paratroopers as a couple of peeps around here are thinking of getting into Bolt Action. You know my background in the hobby so genuinely is it that big a deal with regards to things like webbing? Is this a case where Rule of Cool has to be shut in a box and not let out to play? Fantastic video as always dude. Looking forward to what you work on next.
There's schools of thought, of course. Generally speaking 'close enough' works for most folks, since between battlefield conditions, fading, dirt and debris there's a range of what might be considered accurate colours. The Citadel range generally works pretty well for most WW2 infantry with the provision that they tend to be a little bit more rich than the Vallejo colours in similar shades. Ushabti Bone or Ionrach Skin work for webbing, for example - they're still ultimately your miniatures, but part of the fun is in the research! :D
For me it would. I actually have tons of Citadel paints and like them a lot but man do I HATE the paint pots. I’ve been thinking of just biting the bullet and transferring them to droppers
For me it's that combined with the Citadel price point. I can get the same amount of paint or more of a similar quality in a dropper bottle from Vallejo, Army Painter, or Reaper, for instance, than I can from Citadel. I do use a lot of Citadel's metallics, though, as none of those brands' regular ranges have metallic paints that quite match up (though vallejo's air metallic range is on par or better in some cases.) At a similar price point to Citadel paints you can get paints from Andrea, War Colours, or Scale 75, which I've heard others claim are superior, but I've not yet tried them.
Do you have a suggestion for an alternative to the pastel green using Citadel or Army Painter? Loving your videos. Just getting back into Bolt Action and I'm finding these videos really helpful.
Wonderful work - subscribed! Not a gamer but really interested in figure painting for my scale modelling. This is the simplest approach to figure painting I have seen so far.
It seems on occasion like there's some guides out there which needlessly complicate even the simple stuff. You can naturally get much better results than this, of course, but as far as the basics go I don't think you need to reinvent the wheel every time!
Hi SonicSledgehammerStudio, I am just getting into Bolt Action recently and am planning on buying the paints you used in this video to get started, are there any alternatives than buying the highlight paints to still get my model to look detailed, can I just mix the paint I already coloured with some white to replace the different highlights?
I've been experimenting on some of the 15mm figures I've got recently, too. Not quite sure the easiest way to tackle camo at that scale yet, but watch this space! I'm sure I'll figure something out. :D
Love these videos as always! Quick question- Am I missing out by just using an old jam jar as my water pot? Is the citadel pot with all the ribbed surfaces worth getting?
Naaah. Anything that holds water will do the job, honestly. The Citadel pot's nice - I do quite like the ribbed bottom for something to gently work the brushes over to get paint out of them while I'm rinsing - but it's hardly necessary. You won't mistake it for your mug, at least ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you so much for replying I just got my box and I’m trying to paint them as historically accurate as possible and this looks perfect. I found your video beyond helpful! Subscribed :)
Thank you for this! Dumb question, but what type of palette are you using here? Literally just a piece of paper? Are you thinning the paint once you put a drop down? Does it dry quickly on the palette?
I was wondering if you think it’s easier to glue the figures to their bases before they’re painted, or finishing the bases after the figure is on? Also was wondering if you apply the anti shine after 48 hours for the tone to dry? Or apply the anti shine while the tone may still not be 100% dry?
The Quickshade in the bottles is a plain acrylic mixture, so you don't have to wait the full 48 hours before you can varnish it. With the Quickshade Dip from the big tins it's a lacquer and varnish kind of mix, and I can say from experience that you'd definitely want to wait the full 48 hours at least - the longer you can leave the material to cure, the better.
Great video - Thanks! Have you played any games of bolt action yet, and if so are the rules easy enough to understand? Ive been thinking of picking up a starter kit to play with my dad for a while. We both love the WW2 era!
I've gotten a couple of games in and I quite like the system. I've heard it jokingly described as Warhammer 1944 more than once, which is less of a criticism than it might seem - the basics are easy to pick up, with things like tanks and off-map support adding as you go along. There are a handful of instances where playing rules as written rather than rules as intended will lead to some odd happenings, but if it's you and your dad playing rather than a strictly competitive environment, it's likely you'll be able to work around those fairly easily. Plus, if nothing else, once you've got a bunch of miniatures they're good for any gaming system!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Great thanks! Ill definitely look at picking it up! I play 40k weekly so im used to all the shenanigans that comes with! Ill give you that the minis do look really cool! Thanks!
Another great video, and I’ve already used it to paint my airborne, so thanks again. Do you apply a varnish before adding Decals? And then apply again after? Or just apply after?
With these guys it's safe to apply decals, then varnish once. It'll help to apply a little Microsol or some similar agent to help the decals take to the folds and contours of the sleeves or helmets, as well as get rid of some of the backing film before you varnish as well.
Great stuff here! ❤️ Can you please also make how to paint us airborne with contrast paints please? Or just suggest which contrast paints should i use to paint them? Thanks:)
Nah. More work than it's worth, especially on miniatures of this scale. There's nothing you can't really reach with a brush on most historical infantry once they're completely assembled, and it's just extra work - if you paint something you're going to cover anyway, it's time spent painting nowhere!
After shading, Olive Drab becomes very dark. If you're looking for a quicker way to get things painted it's easier to start from a slightly lighter colour, shade it, and work from there.
Great job, super! I am a newbie and I recently bought this box of paratroopers and I would like to paint them according to the uniform of D-Day. In this case, it won't be a mistake? Or is it better to stick to the classic late war scheme?
In theory, they're your miniatures and you can paint them however you'd like. These late uniforms painted in the earlier colour scheme don't look too bad; plenty of people do it! Just be aware that you're likely going to end up having to tell people a few times, "No, I know it's not technically correct, it's intentional."
It'll work just fine. It'll seem a little brighter as a primer, but you can start from white as well - it's just about finding something which is the right tone for the basecoats.
You can use whatever you'd like. There's not a 'right' set of paints any more than there's a precisely correct colour - as long as you like the end result, it's up to you what paints you choose.
Interesting... he is sticking to Vallejo bottles this time around; I wonder if that means the agrax has gone in the bin... no - there it is. Citadel really need to sell that by the litre.
I think they're pretty good on the whole. If you imagine coverage between Vallejo paints and Citadel's range of layer paints, that's roughly where they sit. The colours are rich and they do an awesome range of alternative skin tones which is what I use them for.
Great work on the model, but one minor nitpick for future reference since accuracy is what you seem to be aiming for. Thompson slings were canvas and would be the same color as the webbing. Only rifles and BARs had leather ones.
Aah, nuts! I had noticed that there were canvas slings in some photos and films, but it hadn't occurred to me that it was specific to the Thompson. Something to correct the next time around! Thanks for the pointer. :D
Recently used this guide to paint my airborne and must say it made life really easy and gave a great finish. It’s my first paint work in the last 20+ years and super happy with the outcome.
Really pleased to hear it helped!
Thank you for this! I'm just getting started with my paratroopers and this video is perfect for that.
. I,m Scottish . I,m oldish( 58). My Uncle Frank ( regimental pipe band) was in 30 corps. Anyway, this is what I want to say. Last year I took up mini painting ( late,what?) and I asked you a silly question. What is diff between primer / base? You answered courtesously, polite and answered my question.Anyway,since then, I,ve spent ( hundreds?, seems like it ) of hours on mini tutorials. Here,s my conclusion. There are three that rise above the rest. Sorastro, ( super painter, excellent camera detail, explains everything),You , ( Great, fun personality, born pedagogue ( good at teaching) and good painter.) Third, Lukes Aps (Affordable paint service). This guy , a Brummy, shows you how to save money EVERYWHERE in this hobby. Newbies, subscribe to these guys and you,re well on your way. Sincerely, thanks.
Thank you kindly, Anthony. I really appreciate you taking the time to write that one out! I'm always glad to know these little backyard style videos are out there helping anybody with their hobby.
Luke's APS is, funnily enough, one of the guys out there on UA-cam that encouraged me to give this a shot myself. I really dig his content, and seeing him go from strength to strength is really nice. Sorastro I'm going to have to check out; that's quite a recommendation! :D
I really do like your laid back approach to "How I paint Things" :-) You have given me many tips and hints.
Thanks bud! I think we get hung up on doing things the 'right' way sometimes, and while there's nothing wrong in wanting to excel at something, I figure for a hobby that's supposed to be relaxing and enjoyable it can be worth taking a step back and just going for it with something that'll look close enough.
really easy to follow tutorial, great videos and some factual information, gives me some motivation to get my airborne army finished! thank you,
This is my second box of Bolt Action soldiers. First were basic US Infantry, and now I’m doing these. Your videos are very helpful to someone new to tabletop games and to the hobby of painting minis. Great stuff to know and tips to help in the process.
Just got the starter box! So excited! Thank you so much
Just wanted to say thanks for this video (and for all of them, quite frankly). My son and I are dipping our toes into the Bolt Action pool and thanks to this video (as well as the Winter German painting guide), we each have 500+ points built and painted in less than a week to put on the table. Cheers. This is seriously one of the, if not THE, best hobby miniature channels out there.
Really glad to hear it! Excellent choice on armies as well, of course. Sounds like you got started with the Band of Brothers set, which is bonkers good for the US forces in there... those poor Germans do need a few reinforcements to make the most of it. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio we ended up not getting the Band of Brothers starter largely because of the imbalanced forces. Ended up just grabbing a box of plastic US airborne and a box of plastic Winter Grenadiers. Love how low the cost of entry is for the game.
My son has added a Panzer IV to his collection (painting it as I type) and I've got a few more paratroopers to get painted up.
I've always loved the Red Devils, so may do some British airborne next.
Worryingly, the PzIV might be - point for point - one of the best options available for the German forces. Time to stock up on a couple bazooka teams! ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I've got one on the painting table ready to go! They will have a big fat target on them I imagine, lol. Thanks again!
Love the video! The Bolt Action minis look amazing. I really like the webbing with pastel green you used. Looking forward to painting my webbing up using the same colors. As always, a great video and thank you for posting these painting videos.
Thank you! Cheers!
I would love to see you do a step by step, comparing 25mm and 15mm painting techniques with the same type of figure. So you do two paratroopers or two grenadiers, explaining the paint choices and comparing the end results.
It is amazing the color changes of U.S. uniforms in W.W. II. Thanks for sharing this tutorial and the history of webbing colors.
Thanks for sharing this video. The elements where you discuss the variation in the webbing colour was particularly helpful. As you say, it's a bit of a minefield working out decent webbing colours and accurate palette for the M42 and M43 kit.
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely loved this video I'm totally new to the model world, had to subscribe thank you
unsure how i found your videos but I really like them, pls make more, love the laid back approach and your enthusiasm
G'day - I've been watching your channel for some time after getting re-interested in the hobby during the pandemic (after around two decades out of it!). But only recently have I got around to painting some Bolt Action models, using your guides for both the German Grenadiers and US Airborne. I just wanted to say thanks! Your videos are enjoyable to watch, easy to follow, and also really informative about uniforms, and they've helped me build up both my confidence and enjoyment in the hobby again. Keep up the great work.
Really glad to hear it! :D Hope you're still enjoying it, too.
Me: "Hrm... maybe this video isn't for me...."
Video: "And I'm going to throw the miniature violently across the room..."
Me: "... okay, maybe I'll stay."
Didn't regret it.
Great painting demonstration AND educational.
Well, as educational as any of this can be! Not sure that webbing colors between 1943 and 1945 are a common field of study. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Well I find the little details like that fascinating when it comes to modeling though. :D
Hi I love the way u paint the soldier u made it fun and easy to copy keep up the good work thanks
Great, as usual. Always expect greatness from you, my dude. Well done. :)
Thanks for this, I'm about to paint my first BA box, band of brothers. Subbed
I used Army painter's Army green spray primer, as the minuter was predominantly green in order to get a faster role out. I found that Army painters Hemp rope + Mid tone wash are a good colour combo for webbing & backpacks or army painter combat fatigues with Soft tone wash.
I love how UA-cam translates some of these paint names for close captions. Apparently you can shade the miniature with "Eric Shadid". I'm wondering if Eric is a friend of "Anthony Camo Shed". :D
Thanks for all the awesome tutorials you have really improved my painting
Very nicely done, have to try this on my 15mm...Wonderful job!
On smaller scales you might want to thin out the shade a little bit so it doesn't dull the colours quite as much, but it should work! :)
Hello Sonic, I absolutely love these videos! They have inspired me to get back into 40k again and begin painting! By pure coincidence there's a new collection of miniatures that have come out to newsagents recently called Warhammer 40k Conquest which has new minis and paints every week for about $15. I picked the first 3 issues up and it seems decent way to build a Primaris SM and Death Guard army along with some terrain, etc. What are your thoughts on this?
Just wondering if there was a chance you could do a week-by-week easy painting guide, it would really help out.
Thanks mate and happy Easter.
Hey dude! :D Hope you had a great Easter. I can barely move for all the chocolate I ate!
The Conquest magazines are an awesome point for collecting the armies involved. The entire collection saves a fair chunk of money off buying everything 'in the box,' as it were, and there's a couple of really neat exclusives. I wouldn't hesitate to pick a few of them up if they were available near me.
Doing anything week-by-week is a little difficult for me, though; short of buying them all myself, I'd very quickly run out of those specific miniatures, and I don't really have the time to dedicate to the same line of miniatures each week without skipping out on something else. The general guides for Ultramarines and Death Guard both will work for most of the miniatures, though I do want to eventually get to some vehicles - I've got a Plagueburst Crawler crying out for some paint... :D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Hey Sonic, thank you so much for letting me know mate, pretty stoked to learn that I'll save some money on these things whilst collecting a decent army, I will look to paint them as you've shown in your videos and look forward to the vehicle session, specifically the Dreads, Plagueburst and Replusor :)
Hi, I'm just getting into Bolt Action for the first time and I was wondering if by 'Russian Uniform' it was the one sold at Vallejo called 'Russian Uniform ww2'
That's the one!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks so much :)
I've been thinking about picking up some paratroopers as a couple of peeps around here are thinking of getting into Bolt Action. You know my background in the hobby so genuinely is it that big a deal with regards to things like webbing? Is this a case where Rule of Cool has to be shut in a box and not let out to play? Fantastic video as always dude. Looking forward to what you work on next.
There's schools of thought, of course. Generally speaking 'close enough' works for most folks, since between battlefield conditions, fading, dirt and debris there's a range of what might be considered accurate colours. The Citadel range generally works pretty well for most WW2 infantry with the provision that they tend to be a little bit more rich than the Vallejo colours in similar shades. Ushabti Bone or Ionrach Skin work for webbing, for example - they're still ultimately your miniatures, but part of the fun is in the research! :D
Nice one mate I have these on my to do pile
I've always wondered if the general distaste for Citadel would go away if they sold paints in droppers instead of pots.
Some of the criticism I've seen has been that they have 'silly names,' so... pretty sure dropper bottles wouldn't solve everything immediately.
For me it would. I actually have tons of Citadel paints and like them a lot but man do I HATE the paint pots. I’ve been thinking of just biting the bullet and transferring them to droppers
For me it's that combined with the Citadel price point. I can get the same amount of paint or more of a similar quality in a dropper bottle from Vallejo, Army Painter, or Reaper, for instance, than I can from Citadel. I do use a lot of Citadel's metallics, though, as none of those brands' regular ranges have metallic paints that quite match up (though vallejo's air metallic range is on par or better in some cases.) At a similar price point to Citadel paints you can get paints from Andrea, War Colours, or Scale 75, which I've heard others claim are superior, but I've not yet tried them.
Pastel green ? works really well Top job
Do you have a suggestion for an alternative to the pastel green using Citadel or Army Painter? Loving your videos. Just getting back into Bolt Action and I'm finding these videos really helpful.
Wonderful work - subscribed! Not a gamer but really interested in figure painting for my scale modelling. This is the simplest approach to figure painting I have seen so far.
It seems on occasion like there's some guides out there which needlessly complicate even the simple stuff. You can naturally get much better results than this, of course, but as far as the basics go I don't think you need to reinvent the wheel every time!
I tested null oil as shade one one figurin it looks good to
5:38 ... my crappy eyes see greyish off-white. I'll take your word that it's green ;)
Hey Guy, fancy seeing you here 👀👀👀
Hi SonicSledgehammerStudio, I am just getting into Bolt Action recently and am planning on buying the paints you used in this video to get started, are there any alternatives than buying the highlight paints to still get my model to look detailed, can I just mix the paint I already coloured with some white to replace the different highlights?
Outstanding! Thanks!
I've been experimenting on some of the 15mm figures I've got recently, too. Not quite sure the easiest way to tackle camo at that scale yet, but watch this space! I'm sure I'll figure something out. :D
Very useful have a squad of 10 to paint up
Awesome!
I learn something new Everytime I watch it. Very helpful.
Love these videos as always! Quick question- Am I missing out by just using an old jam jar as my water pot? Is the citadel pot with all the ribbed surfaces worth getting?
Naaah. Anything that holds water will do the job, honestly. The Citadel pot's nice - I do quite like the ribbed bottom for something to gently work the brushes over to get paint out of them while I'm rinsing - but it's hardly necessary. You won't mistake it for your mug, at least ;D
Just for clarification is that the Russian World War II uniform paint color?
That's the one!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you so much for replying I just got my box and I’m trying to paint them as historically accurate as possible and this looks perfect. I found your video beyond helpful! Subscribed :)
Thank you for this! Dumb question, but what type of palette are you using here? Literally just a piece of paper? Are you thinning the paint once you put a drop down? Does it dry quickly on the palette?
Do you think that perhaps a darker primer like abaddon black would work as well? Or should I rather stick with the lighter one?
I was wondering if you think it’s easier to glue the figures to their bases before they’re painted, or finishing the bases after the figure is on? Also was wondering if you apply the anti shine after 48 hours for the tone to dry? Or apply the anti shine while the tone may still not be 100% dry?
The Quickshade in the bottles is a plain acrylic mixture, so you don't have to wait the full 48 hours before you can varnish it. With the Quickshade Dip from the big tins it's a lacquer and varnish kind of mix, and I can say from experience that you'd definitely want to wait the full 48 hours at least - the longer you can leave the material to cure, the better.
So is he a Currahee or part of the 82?
Depends on what transfers you want to apply, really!
Great video - Thanks! Have you played any games of bolt action yet, and if so are the rules easy enough to understand? Ive been thinking of picking up a starter kit to play with my dad for a while. We both love the WW2 era!
I've gotten a couple of games in and I quite like the system. I've heard it jokingly described as Warhammer 1944 more than once, which is less of a criticism than it might seem - the basics are easy to pick up, with things like tanks and off-map support adding as you go along. There are a handful of instances where playing rules as written rather than rules as intended will lead to some odd happenings, but if it's you and your dad playing rather than a strictly competitive environment, it's likely you'll be able to work around those fairly easily.
Plus, if nothing else, once you've got a bunch of miniatures they're good for any gaming system!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Great thanks! Ill definitely look at picking it up! I play 40k weekly so im used to all the shenanigans that comes with!
Ill give you that the minis do look really cool! Thanks!
Another great video, and I’ve already used it to paint my airborne, so thanks again.
Do you apply a varnish before adding Decals? And then apply again after? Or just apply after?
With these guys it's safe to apply decals, then varnish once. It'll help to apply a little Microsol or some similar agent to help the decals take to the folds and contours of the sleeves or helmets, as well as get rid of some of the backing film before you varnish as well.
Great stuff here! ❤️ Can you please also make how to paint us airborne with contrast paints please? Or just suggest which contrast paints should i use to paint them? Thanks:)
I love the vids, can I ask what camera you use?
Huawei P9 Lite. ;) Still recording these on my phone!
Would you recommend painting the gun and the ammo pack and the other little bits before sticking them on?
Nah. More work than it's worth, especially on miniatures of this scale. There's nothing you can't really reach with a brush on most historical infantry once they're completely assembled, and it's just extra work - if you paint something you're going to cover anyway, it's time spent painting nowhere!
Hey what is the best paint set for a bolt action beginner? because I do not know what to buy thanks!
Why not paint then in Olive Drab? Personal choice or is Vallejos Olive Drab not accurate?
After shading, Olive Drab becomes very dark. If you're looking for a quicker way to get things painted it's easier to start from a slightly lighter colour, shade it, and work from there.
Hey mate was wondering What colours could you use if you only have games workshop colours at your disposal lol
Cheers
Great job, super!
I am a newbie and I recently bought this box of paratroopers and I would like to paint them according to the uniform of D-Day. In this case, it won't be a mistake? Or is it better to stick to the classic late war scheme?
In theory, they're your miniatures and you can paint them however you'd like. These late uniforms painted in the earlier colour scheme don't look too bad; plenty of people do it! Just be aware that you're likely going to end up having to tell people a few times, "No, I know it's not technically correct, it's intentional."
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio , thank you very much for your answer. Well, I’ll think about the best way to do it. :)
Can white be used for primer/ Writh bone?
Will an undercoat of citadel wraithbone work well using these colours?
It'll work just fine. It'll seem a little brighter as a primer, but you can start from white as well - it's just about finding something which is the right tone for the basecoats.
I have a question, is it mandatory to use vallejo paint or can I use another type of paint?
You can use whatever you'd like. There's not a 'right' set of paints any more than there's a precisely correct colour - as long as you like the end result, it's up to you what paints you choose.
Interesting... he is sticking to Vallejo bottles this time around; I wonder if that means the agrax has gone in the bin... no - there it is. Citadel really need to sell that by the litre.
Agrax in the bin?! Heresy!
Pastel green what is it in army painter?
Closest would probably be something like Necrotic Flesh or Combat Fatigues. There's not always a 1:1 exact match across paint lines, though.
What brush are you using ? Not the large basing brush.
Ordinarily it'll be either a Citadel Medium Layer Brush or an Army Painter Regiments Brush.
Do you think the foundry paint's are good, i could see you had some on you're desk and i thinking of getting some of those
I think they're pretty good on the whole. If you imagine coverage between Vallejo paints and Citadel's range of layer paints, that's roughly where they sit. The colours are rich and they do an awesome range of alternative skin tones which is what I use them for.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Nice, thank you. I mostly use valljeo, Scalecolor and Warcolors from cyprus
👍
where did you get the tufts from?
These are the Citadel Middenheim Tufts. Nice and easy!
AK russian uniform took 3 coats over my tamiya grey primer and still isn't PERFECTLY even....ugh lol xD not what I had in mind.
hello, what brand are the figures. and what scale(mm). thanks. by the way, great work
These guys are 28mm from Warlord Games. The plastic US Airborne kit. :)
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks
You should paint a British airborne.
I think you'll approve of my last order from Warlord Games, then! ;)