Just wanted to say thanks for your clubmaking videos. I recently reshafted three Ping Eye 2 wedges, and built a graphite shafted 3-wood using your tips, and it all went flawlessly. I just got them out to the range a couple nights ago and they work great. I’m getting pretty adept at replacing grips now too, though it’s one of those things where you finally get the hang of it right at the end of the job, lol. Now to just wait a couple of seasons until I need new grips again.
Good lord this worked perfectly. THANK YOU so so much! You just gotta find the right sized bolt. And I used one of those hosel cleaning brushes on a drill after it came out. Can't thank you enough!
Unfortunately I have to try this on a club I just bought. It's an adjustable hybrid tip so there's graphite inside too. I bought it thinking I'd have an extra shaft because I have another new shaft ready to go on, but I discovered the shaft was on so tight it seemed welded on. Thanks for the vid.
Love your channel. Got a video suggestion: When it comes to lengthening GRAPHITE shafts, most butt extenders are plastic and are thick enough in the shaft portion but paper thin in the extended part that sticks above the shaft opening. Anything extension longer than 1/2" tends to break off quite easily after extending the shaft with these. Do you know of a sturdier brand? Can we perhaps epoxy a plug into the extender to strengthen it? what about using steel extenders with graphite? Could make quite an interesting video methinks.
Bought a set of Lady Hogans for my granddaughter to use. Coach said wife’s clubs were to heavy and the new ones aren’t much different weight wise. Plan is to reshaft with graphite. This will put them in the same weight range as her jr clubs which he approved of. Problem is removing the shafts. Have seen you demonstrate how in another video and was confident until I tried. Maybe driver wasn’t best choice but got it partway and then refused to move further. This is with a propane torch - metal has changed color but won’t move. Set it aside for a calmer day. Tried the 9 iron next and put the head in a vise, heated with the torch and was able to break it lose by turning the grip. Confident again, tried the same procedure with 8 iron but no joy. Got it partially out but even putting a wrench on the shaft it would not break loose - the shaft unwound instead. I could try your desperate measures on the remaining irons but am reluctant to put a metal head in a vise and pound something into it. Probably 30 year old epoxy - advice and encouragement welcomed. Greatly enjoy your videos. Thanks.
The older the club, the harder it is to break them apart. I would put the shaft in a vise, heat it, and then use a plastic headed mallet to try and knock the head loose. That said, you could get some component heads from Maltby for not much money and save yourself a lot of hassle and have newer tech clubs for your granddaughter.
@@EFGMC Discovered part of the problem - the shaft is pinned! I read some of the history of Hogan club making and saw a reference to pinned shafts. Surprised I even got one out. Will get a small pin punch and try that. My drill wobbles a bit (no pun intended) and I think it’s more likely I will disfigure the heads trying that approach. One other unusual thing I noticed on the woods, the diameter just above the ferrule is about .320 not .335. Irons look close to .370. Will know more once I get the head off. Should be able enlarge it to the appropriate size. Thanks again for your videos and personal attention to our unique problems
Start will smaller diameter drill bits and go around the tip weight making smaller holes. Then you can move to a bigger bit in one of the pilot holes. The other holes will allow the weight to move to the side slightly so you can drill deeper. Make sure you heat the hosel before using the bigger drill bit and you should eventually be about to catch the weight and have it pull everything out. Definitely use a vice for this otherwise injury could occur.
How about a graphite shaft broken at the top of the hosel? I have a 9 iron that actually broke while hitting a shot. It is a taper tip head where the shaft had to be "tapered" before use. High quality shaft that this is allowable. I suspect it might have been tapered too thin. Anyway, would the same technique be used only wth a smaller bolt or screw be used as the hole is much smaller? What about trying to drill it out?
You can either take progressively larger drill bits and get it out that way, or drill a hole just smaller than a wood screw and then use the basic method I showed only with the smaller wood screw twisting and pulling it out. Still use heat with either method.
Would the screw method work for older clubs as well? I have a set of Wilson Staff Fluid Feel irons that are about 35 years old. Would it even be possible to replace the shafts on something that old without a machine shop?
do you have any experience working with older ping irons? why are they so hard to pull the shaft? I have a set of ISI Copper head that has a rattle because the cushion became loose. i heated like how i would pull other shafts....but i just can pull out the shaft from the head. not sure if it's a ping thing...just want to see if you have any insider info on why Ping is so tough
Ping used a mechanical bond beyond just the epoxy bond so the shaft has been driven down into a small channel at the bottom of the hosel. My recommendation is heating followed by a rubber mallet to loosen the bond.
Hi. I believe I have an even worse case scenario. I have two irons, 4 & 5 irons that had graphite iron shaft in them, the are now broken out at the hosel so nothing to grab hold of. I tried drilling the shafts out, but I got only part way because the shafts have tip weights in them and they are not lead (soft tip weights)! I have already broken one drill piece so I really don’t know how to get the rest out. An you give me any tips on how to do this?
Use a small gauge drill bit and drill numerous holes around the edge of the tip weight. At least 5 or 6 holes. Then use one of those holes as a pilot for a larger bit. Heat the hosel and then start slowly drilling with larger bit. Hopefully it will catch at some point and torque out the shaft and tip weight. Make sure you have the head in a vice.
I brought the first head with me to the hardware store to find one that just started to fit inside the shaft tip. Length was 1 1/2 inch but could be any length really.
Just wanted to say thanks for your clubmaking videos. I recently reshafted three Ping Eye 2 wedges, and built a graphite shafted 3-wood using your tips, and it all went flawlessly. I just got them out to the range a couple nights ago and they work great.
I’m getting pretty adept at replacing grips now too, though it’s one of those things where you finally get the hang of it right at the end of the job, lol. Now to just wait a couple of seasons until I need new grips again.
Good lord this worked perfectly. THANK YOU so so much! You just gotta find the right sized bolt. And I used one of those hosel cleaning brushes on a drill after it came out. Can't thank you enough!
This was so clutch! This just happened to my Threewood.
Unfortunately I have to try this on a club I just bought. It's an adjustable hybrid tip so there's graphite inside too. I bought it thinking I'd have an extra shaft because I have another new shaft ready to go on, but I discovered the shaft was on so tight it seemed welded on. Thanks for the vid.
thanks, I always learn something watching your channel ...
I always called such a piece of hardware a "lag screw."
Waiting for part 2, graphite. See the drill bit on the table😊
I need to do one. That drill bit was to clear out some old epoxy that was inside the shaft.
Two words.... You rock !!!!
Excellent. Thank you!
Love your channel. Got a video suggestion: When it comes to lengthening GRAPHITE shafts, most butt extenders are plastic and are thick enough in the shaft portion but paper thin in the extended part that sticks above the shaft opening. Anything extension longer than 1/2" tends to break off quite easily after extending the shaft with these. Do you know of a sturdier brand? Can we perhaps epoxy a plug into the extender to strengthen it? what about using steel extenders with graphite? Could make quite an interesting video methinks.
Great instructional video....but next time close the door so we aren't distracted trying to see who is walking buy :)
This is what happens when I don't film in the morning.
Bought a set of Lady Hogans for my granddaughter to use. Coach said wife’s clubs were to heavy and the new ones aren’t much different weight wise. Plan is to reshaft with graphite. This will put them in the same weight range as her jr clubs which he approved of. Problem is removing the shafts. Have seen you demonstrate how in another video and was confident until I tried. Maybe driver wasn’t best choice but got it partway and then refused to move further. This is with a propane torch - metal has changed color but won’t move. Set it aside for a calmer day. Tried the 9 iron next and put the head in a vise, heated with the torch and was able to break it lose by turning the grip. Confident again, tried the same procedure with 8 iron but no joy. Got it partially out but even putting a wrench on the shaft it would not break loose - the shaft unwound instead. I could try your desperate measures on the remaining irons but am reluctant to put a metal head in a vise and pound something into it. Probably 30 year old epoxy - advice and encouragement welcomed. Greatly enjoy your videos. Thanks.
The older the club, the harder it is to break them apart. I would put the shaft in a vise, heat it, and then use a plastic headed mallet to try and knock the head loose.
That said, you could get some component heads from Maltby for not much money and save yourself a lot of hassle and have newer tech clubs for your granddaughter.
@@EFGMC Discovered part of the problem - the shaft is pinned! I read some of the history of Hogan club making and saw a reference to pinned shafts. Surprised I even got one out. Will get a small pin punch and try that. My drill wobbles a bit (no pun intended) and I think it’s more likely I will disfigure the heads trying that approach. One other unusual thing I noticed on the woods, the diameter just above the ferrule is about .320 not .335. Irons look close to .370. Will know more once I get the head off. Should be able enlarge it to the appropriate size. Thanks again for your videos and personal attention to our unique problems
Checked the iron hosel and it shows me .354. One of the seldom seem .350’s from 30+ years past?
wow that's really really cool
Hi. What size bolt is that? Thanks!
A+++++ CLUBMAKER you are ver good 😊
Aside from buying golf shaft epoxy what would be a comparable 2 part epoxy from Home Depot or Lowe’s?
Hi AJ, any tips on how to remove the broken shaft when the tip weight is in there as well? Can't get the screw down as the tip weight stops it.
You will need to drill out the tip weight first. They are usually lead so pretty easy to get through.
What about when it is a driver/fairway wood? Vice seems it might damage head
Graphite breaks are much easier because you just use gradually larger drill bits until you remove all the debris.
Trying this tomorrow
How would you do it with a tip weight stuck in the broken shaft
Start will smaller diameter drill bits and go around the tip weight making smaller holes. Then you can move to a bigger bit in one of the pilot holes. The other holes will allow the weight to move to the side slightly so you can drill deeper. Make sure you heat the hosel before using the bigger drill bit and you should eventually be about to catch the weight and have it pull everything out.
Definitely use a vice for this otherwise injury could occur.
do you use a special epoxy for glueing the shaft back to the iron head?
I use a golf specific 2 part epoxy.
How about a graphite shaft broken at the top of the hosel? I have a 9 iron that actually broke while hitting a shot. It is a taper tip head where the shaft had to be "tapered" before use. High quality shaft that this is allowable. I suspect it might have been tapered too thin. Anyway, would the same technique be used only wth a smaller bolt or screw be used as the hole is much smaller? What about trying to drill it out?
You can either take progressively larger drill bits and get it out that way, or drill a hole just smaller than a wood screw and then use the basic method I showed only with the smaller wood screw twisting and pulling it out. Still use heat with either method.
Will this work with graphite shaft
Yes
Galvanised Coach screw...
Would the screw method work for older clubs as well? I have a set of Wilson Staff Fluid Feel irons that are about 35 years old. Would it even be possible to replace the shafts on something that old without a machine shop?
It should assuming they don't use some additional attachment method like a metal pin.
do you have any experience working with older ping irons? why are they so hard to pull the shaft? I have a set of ISI Copper head that has a rattle because the cushion became loose. i heated like how i would pull other shafts....but i just can pull out the shaft from the head. not sure if it's a ping thing...just want to see if you have any insider info on why Ping is so tough
Ping used a mechanical bond beyond just the epoxy bond so the shaft has been driven down into a small channel at the bottom of the hosel. My recommendation is heating followed by a rubber mallet to loosen the bond.
Hi. I believe I have an even worse case scenario. I have two irons, 4 & 5 irons that had graphite iron shaft in them, the are now broken out at the hosel so nothing to grab hold of. I tried drilling the shafts out, but I got only part way because the shafts have tip weights in them and they are not lead (soft tip weights)! I have already broken one drill piece so I really don’t know how to get the rest out. An you give me any tips on how to do this?
Use a small gauge drill bit and drill numerous holes around the edge of the tip weight. At least 5 or 6 holes. Then use one of those holes as a pilot for a larger bit. Heat the hosel and then start slowly drilling with larger bit. Hopefully it will catch at some point and torque out the shaft and tip weight. Make sure you have the head in a vice.
Is there a certain lag bolt or lag screw that you use?
I brought the first head with me to the hardware store to find one that just started to fit inside the shaft tip. Length was 1 1/2 inch but could be any length really.
What causes a shaft to snap off below the hosel like that
Usually it’s ultra light shafts that flex against the top edge of the hosel and eventually breaks.
@@EFGMC thank you. Love the channel Great stuff
It’s called a lag bolt just in case you wanted to know.
aaaaand exactly how did the shaft get broken ?? hmmmm ???
This set had 2 snapped at the hosel and at least 3 with bent tips. Beware certain ultralight steel shafts.
You are not a bad golf club repairer, what you have shown will work, I have a different way. Sorry that’s the end.