I get a kick out of all the nay sayers and know it alls that say that you shouldn’t use these or you used to much grease. These people just can’t seem to comprehend the purpose of this system. 1. Do not use a pneumatic grease gun, that is the number one reason people and “ RV Techs” blow out the rear seal. 2. The purpose of this system is to repack your bearings. It takes about 7 ozs ( half a tube) of grease before all the old grease is pushed out and replaced with new grease. If you do a little reading of the dexter manual you would know these facts. If been using this system annually for five years to repack my bearings with no issues. Next year it will be due for a total disassembly and inspection of the brakes, drums, bearings and races.
Let us know how this worked for you from the inspection. Seems like you should be doing this soon. Did you see any spots on the bearing surfaces and any grease in the brakes?
Thanks for the video. Just greased my trailer for a shot trip. I did before watching your video and only did 6 pumps per wheel. I will do it again when I get back and we’ll pump enough grease in order to get the old one out. My trailer is only two years old and we only been out twice. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful.
There are a lot of people having grease go through the seal, so might I suggest doing this on a warm day, going really slow with the greasing to allow it to flow without building any pressure between the bearing and the seal (it's not a race) and checking the seal with a bore scope after if you can!
I have these Dexter EZ zerk fittings on my travel trailer axles. I've never lubed them yet. I know I need to. But, reading the comments and looking at other videos... some say don't do it this way because you can blow the seal out....some say it's going to be alright. Now I don't know what to do. Then there is those who say to jack it up on the axle, then there are those that say don't jack it up on the axle, jack it up on the frame. Then there are those that say don't jack it up on the frame. It's almost hit or miss with these videos. You did a great job explaining, but I'm not sure what to do.
I use the frame to jack it up. It boggles my mind there would be people who say to use neither the axle nor the frame. Unless you have power levelers I do not know of any other way to lift the trailer.
Moly grease as a rule is deigned for sliding surfaces, pins, bushings, and suspension components not wheel bearings. The tube you showed specifically mentions it to be used as an EP grease for chassis and fifth wheel use. You'll get better service life and protection on rolling element bearings by using a non-moly grease.
Agreed, I have found Lithium greaseleaves a slippery coating, which is grease for sureface to surface sliding, ie 5th wheel face, etc, but for bearings, you want a little bit of surface friction so the bearing can grip and roll as designed. Bearings are designed to roll on their surface, which reduces wear, and heat. If bearings slide on their surface, there is a chance it will wear a flat spot in the bearings surface, not to mention friction from sliding will generate heate, which is not ideal.
Thanks for the video. Been RVing for 20 years now. This method is effective. I pulled off two my hubs this year on my 2017 to verify brake pad wear. While I was there check the bearings. Well greased.
Just a suggestion, you really need to be using high temperature bearing grease. The moly grease you used says "fifth wheel" because it is recommended to be used on 5th wheel hitches. This is not the right grease for bearings.
Odd - on the manufacturers website, it literally states this in the description: "MasterPro wheel bearing grease offers lithium-based, extreme pressure (EP) lubrication that helps provide moisture resistance and rust protection."
@@robbypro3370not true, moly grease is much thicker and designed for high pressure on pins and hitches, not ball bearings. I’m literally in the process of replacing 3k in high speed bearings on a blower system because of a guys “any grease will work” idea.
Thanks for showing how to load a grease gun. I only do that about once every 3 or 4 years, which at my age, is just enough time to forget how its done.
Best detailed explanation for greasing trailer bearings on UA-cam ever! Thanks for the details that beginners really need to know. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
I did this job today just as I do every year but I took my wheels off so I could inspect my brakes and I found a cracked hub that could have exploded going down the road. This is exactly why I commented on this video the other day and told you that you should always take your wheels off. My hub could have exploded going down the road.
As a travel trailer owner who has just recently experienced a bearing failure, I recommend doing them EVERY YEAR, no matter how many miles you go. I did mine last year before I did around 3000 miles. So, I decided not to do them this year, because the salesman told me to do them every 10K miles. Well, it cost me big time. DO THEM EVERY YEAR WITHOUT FAIL!!!!
Great job good for those that are not sure how to do this. On previous rv’s I have had to repack the bearings but this much easier. This way uses more grease but less messy
Thanks for the video. First, you went from start to finish. Other videos start with the grease fitting exposed and wheel off the ground. Manufacturer video used a prop axle and bearing set up, wasn't even on a rig. Also appreciate the air bubble problem being left in. Shows that unexpected things can happen.
As an RV technician I see too many people use these ez lube systems and end up blowing their rear seals out ruining their brakes all together. Pull everything apart once a year and do a full inspection. Will save you in the long run
Oh when installing a grease cartrige only thread thread the pump handle one and a half turns then release the plunge and then screw it in the rest of the way, primes every time!
Pretty good job on the video but, as you probably already know if you haven’t greased in 2-3 years means you probably haven’t inspected your brakes. Take the hubs off next time and replace the seals and repack the right way. I believe the fitting is there to top off the procedure in my opinion . It’s always nice to have working brakes.
I agree, just did a manual clean and pack of hubs and replaced complete brake assemblies. Good thing to dig in because although the magnet surfaces were good the hubs needed a skim job. The icing on the cake is the ez lube grease nipple. Back and forth spinning to get all the old out and in with the new! I used a lot more grease than expected but all good, Castrol NLG2 red.
Great video, and thank you! I did spot one snafu. The Dexter Operation Service Manual says CAUTION (all caps and highlighted in yellow) "Do not lift or support the trailer on any part of the axle or suspension system." In other words, don't put jack it up by the axle.
@@mikebradford7780 for the Dexter axels that's absolutely correct. You need to jack it by the frame or use a easy lift ramp. They're not the same as the leaf spring tandem axels.
This system actually works well. Just be sure to royate the hub as you grease to help prevent blow out of rear seal. And, if you ever do have to remove and replace the seal, be sure to use a double lip seal with a spring. And be sure it is installed flush and square or it will aslo leak.
These types of quick videos are awesome. Thanks for leaving in the problem with the air bubble. You are right, things don’t always go perfect. EXCELLENT video sir!
Great video....but a heads up.....moly greases are designed for boundary lubrication, like pins and bushings on a loader/tractor, fifth wheels etc.....sliding metal to metal contact NOT roller bearings......use a grease designed for roller bearings!
@@willrob8994 Not really. That's why I don't use them to "pack". I may give them a pump or 2 later in the year, but never more than a couple of pumps. Plus the way I pack there is plenty of grease there. I have seen one u-tube where a guy uses them to literally pack his bearings. That is not what they were intended for. Not good, the only way to check the seals is to pull the hub off and see if there is any past the seal. If grease is present your compromising your brakes.
@@pat7957 not what theyre intended for? What do you say they are intended for? Never seen so much said about these ez lubes... Look at the design, flows the grease through the inner brng, then out through the outer. Thats it yer done. Brngs serviced. I will say I would not pump the grease in there like the guy did in the vid, animal style, slowly add while spinning the wheel... or not spinning. When fresh comes out the outer you are golden.
Then you might have blown grease past your seals and into the brake. I hope your gun has variable pressure settings. Be careful to avoid high pressure.
Another good tip for you is check your tires - Do an inspection - The reason being is AGE of the tire. Like when the age approaches 6 years it's time to replace them. I say this because I came across a Lady towing a travel trailer on 16 year old tires!!! YIKES!!! and she was awful lucky that she didn't cause an accident.
Our fam just bought a used 2020 bumper pull toy hauler from an older gentleman who didn't like the upkeep and maintenance. Brought it home and checked it over only to find the bearings looked to be dry from the start. Perhaps never greased at the factory or not checked at the dealer??? Luckily the rig didn't have many miles on it so I'm glad I pumped them full before we took it far. Just goes to show checking for yourself can make a difference. Oh and if you can afford a nice 5th wheel, I'd recommend buying a cordless dewalt or milwaukee grease gun! You'll thank me later 😉 (or your grease pumping assistant will thank me later 👍🏼)
I am a Rv tech with 20 years experience. Do not use these unless you want to lubricate your brake pads. Always remove all hubs and inspect bearings and brakes. Replace seals and repack or don't touch the grease. IT'S like changing motor oil without removing the used oil. Hubs need some air inside or when the grease expands it will push into the brakes. Also adjust brake slack when you are done.
I have done the exact same thing before and blew out the back seal and ruined my brakes. I now take the wheels off and hand pack and replace seals every 2 years not that hard. Plus u need to inspect them.
I also thought this should be I use High Temperature Wheel bearing grease specifically for wheel bearings on my travel trailer. Not Molly grease it’s more for sliding applications that’s what we used on bearing surfaces on manufacturing presses .
Here is the way I am going to do a hybrid method for my EZ lube axle. I have only repacked mine the standard way so far. Have not attempted the EZ Lube way yet. I'm going to do a hybrid version that partly uses both methods....use manual grease gun to pump some grease in while spinning the wheel slowly. Maybe 6 pumps. That should adequately renew the grease in the inner bearing, because the spinning wheel will distribute the grease all around in the inner bearing. Now support the outer nose of the hub with my small rolling jack (not necessary, but that will keep the hub from tipping down on the spindle when the outer bearing is removed), remove the metal dust cap, remove the outer wheel bearing, hand-pack it, re-install the bearing and nut retaining devices, and the cap. This way both bearings get greased, and the whole inner hub cavity does not get filled, and I avoid the more work intensive process of removing the inner bearing. Of course, occasionally pull it all down the standard way for compelete re-pack and inspection. Comments?
Most people over grease with these devices. Especially with power grease guns. Go look at your ball joints on unsealed type. Guarantee the shop tech somewhere blasted grease in until the rubber seal snapped. That's why there's a big glob of grease around your joints. IMHO, take the time to disassemble, inspect the bearings. And purchase a bearing packer. WHOOOOOLE lot easier. And they're cheap.
You mentioned it helps to have 2 people. I usually have to this by myself (wife/2 girls). So I bought a Dewalt cordless electric grease gun so all I have to do is spin the wheel and hold the button. After doing this for multiple times, not sure how I ever did it manually.
AT least every 10k miles should be pack and every 20k i would say pulling them out and look and repack with seals. Or you can get the dexter consent lube system ANd besides different types of greases different temps too on top of that. Plus while you have it up check the play in the bearings and adjust them if needed. Plus (Sorry James) don't tighten like that. You have to cross pattern when tightening wheels and torque them. I LOVE THESE VIDEOS!!! But you could have guessed that from auto tech!!! .
Gotta love all the clueless comments on here.....just look at the offical video from dexter for their E-Z lube axles. You indeed do pump through grease just like he does and even shows the video from dexter. Times change folks, new tech comes along.
I’m kind of new to RV but what is that cover the name of it that you took off to access the bearings that way I don’t have to take the tires off because on ours I don’t have a little plastic piece and I’d rather just swap out both of those on our rim one time that way I can access it and lube up the bearings
One thing, with the hub full of grease with no air space I wonder if that's what causes the grease to go past the seal when it gets hot on a long pull, so I wonder if you should pull the outer bearing and remove some of the grease from the hum, it's easy to do???
You do NOT need to push out all the grease, just push in four or five pumps and that’s all, the grease should have room to expand or it will push the seal out. You have WAY cover greased your bearings!!! The warm grease will sling out evenly inside the hub assembly.
I watch as much of your channel as I can hoping something will rub off on me, I am starting my UA-cam channel this Sunday ......1millionmileroadtrip....any helpful advise will be appreciated, I am a old guy, I guess an old dog can learn some new tricks.
I get a kick out of all the nay sayers and know it alls that say that you shouldn’t use these or you used to much grease. These people just can’t seem to comprehend the purpose of this system. 1. Do not use a pneumatic grease gun, that is the number one reason people and “ RV Techs” blow out the rear seal. 2. The purpose of this system is to repack your bearings. It takes about 7 ozs ( half a tube) of grease before all the old grease is pushed out and replaced with new grease. If you do a little reading of the dexter manual you would know these facts. If been using this system annually for five years to repack my bearings with no issues. Next year it will be due for a total disassembly and inspection of the brakes, drums, bearings and races.
Let us know how this worked for you from the inspection. Seems like you should be doing this soon. Did you see any spots on the bearing surfaces and any grease in the brakes?
you'll regret doing that one day.
Thanks for the video. Just greased my trailer for a shot trip. I did before watching your video and only did 6 pumps per wheel. I will do it again when I get back and we’ll pump enough grease in order to get the old one out. My trailer is only two years old and we only been out twice. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful.
I have a trailer with Dexter and EZ lube and have never lubricated the bearings. I found you short video very helpful. Thanks.
Good honest video, no BS, no horrible music. Nice job.
Use a torque wrench to properly torque lug nuts. Using an impact wrench will usually place too much torque on the nuts
There are a lot of people having grease go through the seal, so might I suggest doing this on a warm day, going really slow with the greasing to allow it to flow without building any pressure between the bearing and the seal (it's not a race) and checking the seal with a bore scope after if you can!
I have these Dexter EZ zerk fittings on my travel trailer axles. I've never lubed them yet. I know I need to. But, reading the comments and looking at other videos... some say don't do it this way because you can blow the seal out....some say it's going to be alright. Now I don't know what to do. Then there is those who say to jack it up on the axle, then there are those that say don't jack it up on the axle, jack it up on the frame. Then there are those that say don't jack it up on the frame. It's almost hit or miss with these videos. You did a great job explaining, but I'm not sure what to do.
I use the frame to jack it up. It boggles my mind there would be people who say to use neither the axle nor the frame. Unless you have power levelers I do not know of any other way to lift the trailer.
Do exactly what he did, brings me plenty of work on damaged seals, grease coated brake shoes and bad bearings. Sometimes I even sell a few axles.
Jack up the axle - its plenty strong, and much easier to do
@@anthonyhitchings1051 Thank you!!
Moly grease as a rule is deigned for sliding surfaces, pins, bushings, and suspension components not wheel bearings. The tube you showed specifically mentions it to be used as an EP grease for chassis and fifth wheel use. You'll get better service life and protection on rolling element bearings by using a non-moly grease.
Agreed, I have found Lithium greaseleaves a slippery coating, which is grease for sureface to surface sliding, ie 5th wheel face, etc, but for bearings, you want a little bit of surface friction so the bearing can grip and roll as designed.
Bearings are designed to roll on their surface, which reduces wear, and heat.
If bearings slide on their surface, there is a chance it will wear a flat spot in the bearings surface, not to mention friction from sliding will generate heate, which is not ideal.
I also thought this should be High Temperature Wheel bearing grease specifically for wheel bearings .
Thanks for the video. Been RVing for 20 years now. This method is effective. I pulled off two my hubs this year on my 2017 to verify brake pad wear. While I was there check the bearings. Well greased.
Just a suggestion, you really need to be using high temperature bearing grease. The moly grease you used says "fifth wheel" because it is recommended to be used on 5th wheel hitches. This is not the right grease for bearings.
Odd - on the manufacturers website, it literally states this in the description: "MasterPro wheel bearing grease offers lithium-based, extreme pressure (EP) lubrication that helps provide moisture resistance and rust protection."
@@Nitro187 Key word there is wheel bearing grease; that brand likely carries both moly grease and wheel bearing grease, there is a difference
Any grease will work fine. Settle down know it all.
@@robbypro3370 not true
@@robbypro3370not true, moly grease is much thicker and designed for high pressure on pins and hitches, not ball bearings. I’m literally in the process of replacing 3k in high speed bearings on a blower system because of a guys “any grease will work” idea.
Thanks for showing how to load a grease gun. I only do that about once every 3 or 4 years, which at my age, is just enough time to forget how its done.
Best detailed explanation for greasing trailer bearings on UA-cam ever! Thanks for the details that beginners really need to know. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
Great "tips" video showing us newbies how to grease up our RV axels. Thanks
I did this job today just as I do every year but I took my wheels off so I could inspect my brakes and I found a cracked hub that could have exploded going down the road. This is exactly why I commented on this video the other day and told you that you should always take your wheels off. My hub could have exploded going down the road.
As a travel trailer owner who has just recently experienced a bearing failure, I recommend doing them EVERY YEAR, no matter how many miles you go. I did mine last year before I did around 3000 miles. So, I decided not to do them this year, because the salesman told me to do them every 10K miles. Well, it cost me big time. DO THEM EVERY YEAR WITHOUT FAIL!!!!
Great job good for those that are not sure how to do this. On previous rv’s I have had to repack the bearings but this much easier. This way uses more grease but less messy
Thanks for the video. First, you went from start to finish. Other videos start with the grease fitting exposed and wheel off the ground. Manufacturer video used a prop axle and bearing set up, wasn't even on a rig. Also appreciate the air bubble problem being left in. Shows that unexpected things can happen.
As an RV technician I see too many people use these ez lube systems and end up blowing their rear seals out ruining their brakes all together. Pull everything apart once a year and do a full inspection. Will save you in the long run
Thanks for the important maintenance tips, many times overlooked that can cause major safety problems and delays while traveling.
Oh when installing a grease cartrige only thread thread the pump handle one and a half turns then release the plunge and then screw it in the rest of the way, primes every time!
Pretty good job on the video but, as you probably already know if you haven’t greased in 2-3 years means you probably haven’t inspected your brakes. Take the hubs off next time and replace the seals and repack the right way. I believe the fitting is there to top off the procedure in my opinion . It’s always nice to have working brakes.
I agree, just did a manual clean and pack of hubs and replaced complete brake assemblies. Good thing to dig in because although the magnet surfaces were good the hubs needed a skim job.
The icing on the cake is the ez lube grease nipple. Back and forth spinning to get all the old out and in with the new! I used a lot more grease than expected but all good, Castrol NLG2 red.
Hope u guys are safe and well. Can’t wait for this to be over ♥️
We are staying safe! Actually getting excited about some things starting to open back up and maybe even hit the road again soon!
Great video, and thank you! I did spot one snafu. The Dexter Operation Service Manual says CAUTION (all caps and highlighted in yellow) "Do not lift or support the trailer on any part of the axle or suspension system." In other words, don't put jack it up by the axle.
Sure! That would make it a little hard to change a flat or install new tires. That is not correct.
@@mikebradford7780 for the Dexter axels that's absolutely correct. You need to jack it by the frame or use a easy lift ramp. They're not the same as the leaf spring tandem axels.
This system actually works well. Just be sure to royate the hub as you grease to help prevent blow out of rear seal. And, if you ever do have to remove and replace the seal, be sure to use a double lip seal with a spring. And be sure it is installed flush and square or it will aslo leak.
These types of quick videos are awesome. Thanks for leaving in the problem with the air bubble. You are right, things don’t always go perfect. EXCELLENT video sir!
Out open
First time visit to your channel. Good stuff. Any maintenance related video's are always a good thing. Be safe out there.....
DO NOT stick your finger into that hole to clean out the excess grease. RAZOR SHARP!
I found out the hard bloody way
Great video....but a heads up.....moly greases are designed for boundary lubrication, like pins and bushings on a loader/tractor, fifth wheels etc.....sliding metal to metal contact NOT roller bearings......use a grease designed for roller bearings!
Be careful and not blow the rear seals out. Then your brakes will get grease covered. Pro tip!!
@@willrob8994 Not really. That's why I don't use them to "pack". I may give them a pump or 2 later in the year, but never more than a couple of pumps. Plus the way I pack there is plenty of grease there.
I have seen one u-tube where a guy uses them to literally pack his bearings. That is not what they were intended for. Not good, the only way to check the seals is to pull the hub off and see if there is any past the seal. If grease is present your compromising your brakes.
@@pat7957 not what theyre intended for?
What do you say they are intended for?
Never seen so much said about these ez lubes...
Look at the design, flows the grease through the inner brng, then out through the outer. Thats it yer done.
Brngs serviced.
I will say I would not pump the grease in there like the guy did in the vid, animal style, slowly add while spinning the wheel... or not spinning.
When fresh comes out the outer you are golden.
Pro Tip??? Too funny.
Those are great for bearing maintenance. Been using those for years.
Great video.
I carry a Milwaukee M12 battery powered 12 volt grease gun in my 5th wheel. It makes it easy to do this by my self.
Then you might have blown grease past your seals and into the brake. I hope your gun has variable pressure settings. Be careful to avoid high pressure.
Very good video easy to follow thanks alot
Never ever use a battery powered grease gun when doing this. Slow and easy, not fast and greasy.
This was great I didn’t know at all how to do it, I thought a few shots of grease and that’s it but you showed me how it’s done thank you so much.
The Dexter manual has a list of approved grease for their axles. I just bought one off the list to be safe.
Another good tip for you is check your tires - Do an inspection - The reason being is AGE of the tire. Like when the age approaches 6 years it's time to replace them. I say this because I came across a Lady towing a travel trailer on 16 year old tires!!! YIKES!!! and she was awful lucky that she didn't cause an accident.
Thanks I just checked my wheels n one side needed grease but I took the liberty n greased all four. Thanks again for ur tips LP
Our fam just bought a used 2020 bumper pull toy hauler from an older gentleman who didn't like the upkeep and maintenance. Brought it home and checked it over only to find the bearings looked to be dry from the start. Perhaps never greased at the factory or not checked at the dealer??? Luckily the rig didn't have many miles on it so I'm glad I pumped them full before we took it far. Just goes to show checking for yourself can make a difference. Oh and if you can afford a nice 5th wheel, I'd recommend buying a cordless dewalt or milwaukee grease gun! You'll thank me later 😉 (or your grease pumping assistant will thank me later 👍🏼)
A lot of people are saying the electric will blow seals
@@evilcoco321 I saw one online that has variable pressure settings. DEWALT Cordless Grease Gun Kit - 20V, 10,000 PSI, 1 Li-Ion Battery, Model# DCGG571M1
At 5:06 "new" Red grease is coming out. At 6:12 "new" Black grease is coming out. Did you two types grease?
The clip he used at 5:06 looks to be edited in from Dexter's channel. That's why there's a difference in color at 6:12.
Right
I am a Rv tech with 20 years experience. Do not use these unless you want to lubricate your brake pads. Always remove all hubs and inspect bearings and brakes. Replace seals and repack or don't touch the grease. IT'S like changing motor oil without removing the used oil. Hubs need some air inside or when the grease expands it will push into the brakes. Also adjust brake slack when you are done.
Pneumatic or battery grease gun be great for that!! Save the pain! Thx for sharing I am due for this as well!!
Do not use a power grease gun !!!
You will blow out the inner seal
@@johnhines3591 I didn’t think about that! Thx!!!!
Leave grease in the sun and let it get HOT, pump very very slowly as you rotate the wheel or you can push out the seal.
I have done the exact same thing before and blew out the back seal and ruined my brakes. I now take the wheels off and hand pack and replace seals every 2 years not that hard. Plus u need to inspect them.
Don’t use moly, use high temp red grease. And there is a bleed valve on the head of the grease gun for what it gets airlocked
Pro tip as you grease your bearings you should also inspect your wheel hubs and brakes.
Good tip!
I also thought this should be I use High Temperature Wheel bearing grease specifically for wheel bearings on my travel trailer. Not Molly grease it’s more for sliding applications that’s what we used on bearing surfaces on manufacturing presses .
Thanks for the video. Especially the real life problem encountered like an Air lock. Well done.
Best hub grease video yet! Love me some greasy hubs!
Thanks for the greased job.. Ya did good ...Enjoy your camping ..
Here is the way I am going to do a hybrid method for my EZ lube axle. I have only repacked mine the standard way so far. Have not attempted the EZ Lube way yet.
I'm going to do a hybrid version that partly uses both methods....use manual grease gun to pump some grease in while spinning the wheel slowly. Maybe 6 pumps. That should adequately renew the grease in the inner bearing, because the spinning wheel will distribute the grease all around in the inner bearing. Now support the outer nose of the hub with my small rolling jack (not necessary, but that will keep the hub from tipping down on the spindle when the outer bearing is removed), remove the metal dust cap, remove the outer wheel bearing, hand-pack it, re-install the bearing and nut retaining devices, and the cap. This way both bearings get greased, and the whole inner hub cavity does not get filled, and I avoid the more work intensive process of removing the inner bearing. Of course, occasionally pull it all down the standard way for compelete re-pack and inspection.
Comments?
Great Job. Less Talk and Get to the Point. You did exactly of that.
Most people over grease with these devices. Especially with power grease guns. Go look at your ball joints on unsealed type. Guarantee the shop tech somewhere blasted grease in until the rubber seal snapped. That's why there's a big glob of grease around your joints. IMHO, take the time to disassemble, inspect the bearings. And purchase a bearing packer. WHOOOOOLE lot easier. And they're cheap.
What about the seal on the back? Aren’t you afraid of it popping off of the back and getting on the brakes? But great video
Shouldn’t the young guy be. Pumping and the. Old guy spin the wheel..
Depends on what pill your taking 🤪
He probably did
Did you see the arms on that old guy... pumping the grease no proplem
Loved the full version video, very helpful dealing with everything that could happen.
Thank you. I need to go back and grease mine now that I know what to actually do.
glad you did this video im about to do mine and didn't know how to change it
Noni wants lifestyle videos with Goose and Maverick. Gramppa Beard wants both.
Good video, would installing bearing buddies defeat the purpose of the EZ lube?
You mentioned it helps to have 2 people. I usually have to this by myself (wife/2 girls). So I bought a Dewalt cordless electric grease gun so all I have to do is spin the wheel and hold the button. After doing this for multiple times, not sure how I ever did it manually.
Once u go cordless you'll never go back to manual! I'm running the same setup and it's a grease gun dream 😉
Until you blow grease out the back seal
Hi James and Ashley and goose and maverick how are you today. Happy Friday.
Please tell me ....you did not do yr rv wheels up tight with that air gun......
Great job. My Pro Safety Tip is using a brake spoon and adjusting your brakes! That wheel spun way too freely IMHO.
Very nice video. I was always leary of pumping to much grease as I thought it might push out the inside seal. Not the case?. good to know.
AT least every 10k miles should be pack and every 20k i would say pulling them out and look and repack with seals. Or you can get the dexter consent lube system ANd besides different types of greases different temps too on top of that. Plus while you have it up check the play in the bearings and adjust them if needed. Plus (Sorry James) don't tighten like that. You have to cross pattern when tightening wheels and torque them. I LOVE THESE VIDEOS!!! But you could have guessed that from auto tech!!!
.
Great job showing how this greasing is done
Short and sweet! Good job
Ram 3500, Great Truck. What do you set your electric brake gain at.
Molly is for dirty environments, any high temperature wheel bearing grease will be fine.
Just did mine this morning. Bone dry :(. Hoping I got it before the bearing started to go.
Wow, this was a great video and very helpful. Thanks for the links. I'm gonna buy the stuff and get ready to go it myself.
thanks for pointing out it only applies to Dexter EZ Lube system.
The second wheel didn't seem to have any old grease in it. Lesson in greasing your bearings as often as they suggest.
Thanks. You made this not as big a chore as I thought.
I used the grease fittings to grease my bearings....there was soo much grease in there it blew off the caps!!!
Like the maintenance tips. Is there parts or an after market set up to grease ur bearings like just did?
Gotta love all the clueless comments on here.....just look at the offical video from dexter for their E-Z lube axles. You indeed do pump through grease just like he does and even shows the video from dexter.
Times change folks, new tech comes along.
Very helpful. Quick, personable. Thank you. Do more like this.
Don’t forget the vid on how to prime the grease gun!
I’m kind of new to RV but what is that cover the name of it that you took off to access the bearings that way I don’t have to take the tires off because on ours I don’t have a little plastic piece and I’d rather just swap out both of those on our rim one time that way I can access it and lube up the bearings
Owned my Montana for 12 years and have never used that zerk. Looking for greasy brakes and a lot of grease.
Excellent instructional video!
What happens if you don’t rotate the tire while re greasing?
Awesome video, very thorough and explained well!
Great info... thanks!!!
Love these how to vids.
Thanks, very helpful, preceeding comments also very helpful
One thing, with the hub full of grease with no air space I wonder if that's what causes the grease to go past the seal when it gets hot on a long pull, so I wonder if you should pull the outer bearing and remove some of the grease from the hum, it's easy to do???
watch the Timken bearing repack video...hub should not be full of grease.
Good job Dad 👍
Awesome video and great tips, also are you guys gonna go to silverwood this year?
Great video. Off topic, what’s the intro song?
Enjoyed the video
Excellent 😊😊
You do NOT need to push out all the grease, just push in four or five pumps and that’s all, the grease should have room to expand or it will push the seal out. You have WAY cover greased your bearings!!! The warm grease will sling out evenly inside the hub assembly.
thats always been my understanding as well. Good way to blow out the seal and end up in a bigger mess.
Nice video. Helped a lot.
I watch as much of your channel as I can hoping something will rub off on me, I am starting my UA-cam channel this Sunday ......1millionmileroadtrip....any helpful advise will be appreciated, I am a old guy, I guess an old dog can learn some new tricks.
I heard you don't jack up on the axel, it will bend them
Definitely like this type of “tip” video. Very “real” and understandable. Thanks.
My trailer maker says NEVER jack up a trailer by the axle tubes. ONLY USING THE FRAME.
Good info here. Presented easy to understand.
Good video
Now i gotta do mine 🤦🏽♂️
Good video! Well explained!
Why don't you pop the dust cover off. Makes wiping the grease out much easier. I guess you're saving having to remove the tire.