Lots of details, I like it! I prefer to keep mine running slow. Quieter, blades last longer, and less dust. Tried running my cast iron bandsaw at around 4000 fpm once. The tires started coming off that one too!
Matthias Wandel Thanks. I need the saw running faster for cutting bowl blanks properly. And I don't care about noise, because I always wear ear protection. But why less dust?
True, but also depends on the feed rate. And because I use the with dust collection I don't have issues with sawdust being blown out. You also need a slower speed, because of your smaller motor, right. I just thought that the commercial high-end bandsaws also run really fast and there has to be a reason for that, so I tried it out.
I've watched just about every video that Matthias Wandel has made. I say that to say this, you are a younger version of him. He's amazingly smart and you my young friend are as well. I enjoyed this video very much. mark
at 11.2 you mention not having ugly screw holes in the wheal that will not be seen , that shows me what discipline and pride you have in your work a rare thing now . thank you for another great video .
Very nice work. I have built many machines for my commercial cabinet shop here in America [Czech-Slovak family, with many features of the German technical abilities] and I have many Band saws, one of them from 1890 or so, that I took from the bushes and rebuilt completely, heavy cast iron, 32" wheels. I want to share with you my problems and solution for the rubber bands on the bandsaw wheels. Here, we can buy rubber bands or tires to go on the face of the wheels, and I did so many times, installing them with a rubber cement to fix them. In some cases we would use a router, fixed to the table to mill the rubber tires after installation to provide a perfect circumference. Finally, we tested using a top quality duct tape, or the best electrical tape, Scotch '33' , simply wrapped around the wheels. This has been a fantastic solution, and all our machines are now using this. Finally, in your instance with the MDF wheels, I would mill a slight crown to the wheels and then use NO rubber at all. I also have a 'Woodmizer" sawmill, which will except a 1 meter log. Here with a 3 phase 30 HP motor and a 1.50" band blade I learned much about heavy work with bandsaws. It is interesting that this machine uses a standard 'V' belt cast iron pulley with a v-belt fitted to just be able to be forced onto the pulley. Therefore, the blade body is running on this v-belt, centered, and the teeth are just off the edge of the belt which stands above the cast iron wheels. A very peculiar methodology, but in practice a perfect one. Another solution is to simply track your band blade teeth just off the edge of the wheels and use no rubber at all. Many sawmills use cast iron wheels, and track the teeth just off the edge, eliminating the issue of rubber deterioration and replacement. Good luck in your career - I wish I had someone as yourself in my company with such obvious skill and attention to detail. Here in California, it becomes more difficult to find workers that can tie their shoes, much less engineer and build a machine. Now, if you look at my page, I grow weary of the woodshop and spend more time developing roads on my lands with heavy equipment. A very satisfying change from all the wood dust!
Looks great! On a side note. I highly recommend holding smaller pieces like that with a clamp or vice when using a holesaw in a drill press. They have a tendency to bite in/snag the material which can cause it to spin out of control. I almost lost my thumb doing It the way you are. The cut was to the bone. Thankfully I kept the thumb and the nail grew back.. well, kind of...
Your wheels came out very nice as a matter of fact/ my opinion your entire video and projects have been Getting better and more professional to watch i actually am a disabled Architectual Woodworker that suffered some medical issues that forced me to resign from a Woodworking Career in Commrtercial Woodworking after 20 years of installing.and project managing mostly the installation of custom cabinetry and various other ele,Mets of. Custom Woodwork I hope you continue posting videos As you and your videos. Have been steadily becoming one of my favorite channels
There's something soothing about cutting inner tube rubber, huh? Wow! That 2hp motor takes off like a striped ape in heat. Great job! ..and thanks for the tip about where to buy spar varnish. I hadn't thought about it but it makes lots of sense.
Felder has brushes on their higher end bandsaw machines that work really well to keep saw dust buildup under control. Not the Hammer models but the Felder and the price includes a mounting piece. Put these stiffer bristle brushes at almost a vertical stance as the pressure is applied. I use them on my Northfield 27" bandsaw with altered mounting positions. V Mordt Rolfe Chicago
Ok. I found your band saw build on the site you posted. Real good job on that also. I watch some videos from German and UK woodworkers, they are impressive, to say the least. Enjoy yourself just a you are, amazing.
Hi Marius, this is a really interesting video with loads of useful info. Just one point of safety, running the saw with the covers off is only one step away from what I like to call the flying band of death! Even if you only have the covers over the on off switch area and don't stand to close would be better then nothing. This would mean the blade wraps around that cover and hopefully not you. Please keep the videos coming, they are fun to watch and learn from 😊
Sehr interessantes Video. Mit ganz ähnlichen Problemen an meinem Bandsägewerk beschäftige ich mich auch gerade - werde mir deine Lösungsansätze merken!
When I cut green wood, I soak the blades in a solution of Murphy's Oil Soap and water for a couple of hours. It dissolves wood sap like magic. Dry it and spray with WD 40 to keep it from rusting. I don't have a band full sized band saw yet but it works great on the circular saws and my old three wheeler. It's good to keep several blades and change often.
For such a young fellow, your woodworking and video-making skills are amazing (as is your English). Bravo. I'll definitely by a subscriber and look forward to your videos.
Your wheels are a work of art! I like the design and am going to borrow at least the idea for the 24" bandsaw I'm building. I too prefer MDF over plywood for its higher density, uniformity and stability. 4000 feet per minute seems a bit fast. I try for about 2500. Cuts aren't as fast and you have to slow the feed rate, but the blade stays cooler and lasts a lot longer. Whatever you prefer of course. For the holes I'd recommend using a template and cutting them with a router and top bearing flush rim bit. Those big hole saws really tend to load up. And you can get really artistic with your hole shapes.
I watched your video about making bandsaw wheels and I think you did an amazing job with them. You whole saw is very impressive. I bought some plans some time ago to build a bandsaw but the more I thought about it, I just ordered a 17" Grizzly bandsaw with cast iron wheels and huge cast iron table. I have so much work for clients waiting I cannot afford to build a bandsaw but I would love the challenge. Great job. John the Handyman in Las Vegas.
If you ever have to re-make wheels there is a trick that would help the alignment issue you ran into when adjusting the wobble on the wheel before gluing the bearing flange. Move the flange as you were doing by tapping on it but before you release it for gluing drill through it and use a dowel in the hole, this will ensure you install the flange exactly where you had it before and it will be Ok since you will balance it later...
Gilberto Diaz Castro I thought about this method, but didn't use it because I thought if the pieces move just a tiny fraction while drilling then it would screw up the alignment and I can't fix it. In theory this is a perfect idea, but it's hard to make.
Probably you won't see this, but I am thinking that you made these wheels before you got your X Carve. I just made some very accurate concentric circles on my X-Carve from MDF and built them up to create a replacement base for a floor standing drill press. Now I am watching your video right after Mr. Wandel's big band saw build, I am thinking the X-Carve can make very accurate MDF band saw wheels, or at least I am going to try it as soon as he releases his new band saw plans in January. Definitely going to use your idea of a channel instead of trying to stretch inner tubes over the outside.
Actually, I was thinking of the problem of making holes in the bearing blocks to precisely match the ball bearings without having the perfectly sized hole saw, and of machining some alignment holes in the wheels and bearing blocks so that I would not have to rely on my imperfect skills with a hand held drill, and avoiding the fuss of tapping the bearing blocks into place to get everything aligned. Anyway, you are doing wonderful things in your shop and you are inspiring people all over the world. I really enjoy your videos.
You may at a future date add a simple belt tensioner for the drive belt it'll keep it from slapping out and potentially coming off of the pully on first start up.
I love the way you work and the precision and care about details you use. Great job. Mathias bandsaw was already great and you are possibly improving it. I'm a bit concerned abot the speed though. It seems a tiny bit too high.
mill a groove all the way around on both sides to allow the rubber to be pushed into, keeping the dust from being ABLE to migrate between the rubber and the wheel,..
Hallo There is something else about the motor you could do, it might be possible to make it run at two speeds and make it start properly also by using a special switch. You should first open the box on the motor and see how many wires come from the motor into the box, if there are 9 it is possible to make it run at a lower speed by reducing the number of poles and at full speed (1500 and 3000 rpm for example) and use a star-duble star or star-triangle start config, if there are 6 it is possible to use a star-triangle start, and if there are only three you cant do much but someone with expertise could disassemble it and do the proper modifications, also the proper way to start the motor is with a star-triangle config because in triangle config the starting current is 4 to 8 times bigger than the running one as oppose to a star config in which the starting current is only 3 times bigger than the running current. I will try to explain more. The motor has a rotor that is so called in short-circuite and a stator with a multiple of 6 windings but there are basicaly three coils, one for each phase. Normaly from the factory there should be 9 wires coming out of the casing, three for one end, three for the other end and three for the midle of the coils so depending on the aplication the connections are made, but sometimes these wires are conected inside the motor. These wires could be connected in a few ways (sometimes incorect making the motor to run hot and ineficient, noisy ...)
easier hole saw cutting: drill one or two holes (1cm or so) on the waste side of the cut, intersecting the cut line. The sawdust exits the kerf onto the holes and no more burning!
I figured about 20 people would tell you this. But I wanted to get in on the razzing. I cannot tell you how many doors I burned my way through before someone told me this. It would be so convenient if we could learn all of this stuff before we ever built something.
Subbed because the video for making wheels is f-ing fab enough on it's own. But then I discovered you use the saw for making bowl blanks for turning. And then, then sir, you got my sub. XD
Super Ideen und ein Klasse Video. Einen Tipp hab ich noch für das Einpressen deiner Kugellager: Nutz deine Ständerbohrmaschine und einen recht soliden Holzblock als Presse ;)
Great videos. They are project inspireing. Thanks. I will give you a great hint if you want to harden a wood surface. I use thin CA glue on a surface if I want it to be durable. The thin Ca will soke into the porous wood and it becomes like solid plastic. ...Cheers
Marius Hornberger No problem! I saw your Chips-seperater project too, and it's really awesome! I was like "hopefully it works as well as he wants it!" (Da sieht man es mal wieder, die Deutschen sind die Tüftler. :D :D )
Marius, Excellent work and results! To share a recommendation, avoid using drywall screws. They are barely strong enough for drywall. My go to company for screws happens to be a German company: GRK Fasteners also called UberGrade
Lots of details, I like it!
I prefer to keep mine running slow. Quieter, blades last longer, and less dust. Tried running my cast iron bandsaw at around 4000 fpm once. The tires started coming off that one too!
Nice video, can't wait to build my own Bandsaw.
That was impressive!
Matthias Wandel Thanks. I need the saw running faster for cutting bowl blanks properly. And I don't care about noise, because I always wear ear protection. But why less dust?
Marius Hornberger
A slower saw will take larger chips (for most cuts). And slower wheels will blow less dust around the shop.
True, but also depends on the feed rate. And because I use the with dust collection I don't have issues with sawdust being blown out. You also need a slower speed, because of your smaller motor, right. I just thought that the commercial high-end bandsaws also run really fast and there has to be a reason for that, so I tried it out.
I've watched just about every video that Matthias Wandel has made. I say that to say this, you are a younger version of him. He's amazingly smart and you my young friend are as well. I enjoyed this video very much.
mark
Marius: I am very impressed by your intelligence, creativity, resourcefulness, motivation and self-discipline. You are a credit to your generation.
at 11.2 you mention not having ugly screw holes in the wheal that will not be seen , that shows me what discipline and pride you have in your work a rare thing now . thank you for another great video .
Very nice work. I have built many machines for my commercial cabinet shop here in America [Czech-Slovak family, with many features of the German technical abilities] and I have many Band saws, one of them from 1890 or so, that I took from the bushes and rebuilt completely, heavy cast iron, 32" wheels. I want to share with you my problems and solution for the rubber bands on the bandsaw wheels. Here, we can buy rubber bands or tires to go on the face of the wheels, and I did so many times, installing them with a rubber cement to fix them. In some cases we would use a router, fixed to the table to mill the rubber tires after installation to provide a perfect circumference. Finally, we tested using a top quality duct tape, or the best electrical tape, Scotch '33' , simply wrapped around the wheels. This has been a fantastic solution, and all our machines are now using this. Finally, in your instance with the MDF wheels, I would mill a slight crown to the wheels and then use NO rubber at all.
I also have a 'Woodmizer" sawmill, which will except a 1 meter log. Here with a 3 phase 30 HP motor and a 1.50" band blade I learned much about heavy work with bandsaws. It is interesting that this machine uses a standard 'V' belt cast iron pulley with a
v-belt fitted to just be able to be forced onto the pulley. Therefore, the blade body is running on this v-belt, centered, and the teeth are just off the edge of the belt which stands above the cast iron wheels. A very peculiar methodology, but in practice a perfect one. Another solution is to simply track your band blade teeth just off the edge of the wheels and use no rubber at all. Many sawmills use cast iron wheels, and track the teeth just off the edge, eliminating the issue of rubber deterioration and replacement.
Good luck in your career - I wish I had someone as yourself in my company with such obvious skill and attention to detail. Here in California, it becomes more difficult to find workers that can tie their shoes, much less engineer and build a machine. Now, if you look at my page, I grow weary of the woodshop and spend more time developing roads on my lands with heavy equipment. A very satisfying change from all the wood dust!
Nicely done and I liked your attention to detail. There is no one best solution, there is the one you like that suits your needs!
A young "Master Craftsman", a real pleasure to watch him at work.
Looks great! On a side note. I highly recommend holding smaller pieces like that with a clamp or vice when using a holesaw in a drill press. They have a tendency to bite in/snag the material which can cause it to spin out of control. I almost lost my thumb doing It the way you are. The cut was to the bone. Thankfully I kept the thumb and the nail grew back.. well, kind of...
Your wheels came out very nice as a matter of fact/ my opinion your entire video and projects have been Getting better and more professional to watch i actually am a disabled Architectual Woodworker that suffered some medical issues that forced me to resign from a Woodworking Career in Commrtercial Woodworking after 20 years of installing.and project managing mostly the installation of custom cabinetry and various other ele,Mets of. Custom Woodwork I hope you continue posting videos As you and your videos. Have been steadily becoming one of my favorite channels
The varnished MDF with its pattern of holes is beautiful in that shade of green. Congratulations.
Brilliant young mind, I see a great future for you.
Da habe ich doch gleich gelernt, wie man die Dinger auswuchtet, danke Marius. Great video btw. Cheers!
There's something soothing about cutting inner tube rubber, huh?
Wow! That 2hp motor takes off like a striped ape in heat. Great job! ..and thanks for the tip about where to buy spar varnish. I hadn't thought about it but it makes lots of sense.
I like the design on the new wheels. Great job!!!
So much attention to detail.You never fail to impress. You are a genius.
I see this is a 3yr old video, but was new to me. Very nice work. Thanks for sharing!
Great job Marius. The saw runs very very quiet and well balances. the little bearing adapters is a great idea. Thanks for sharing.
Felder has brushes on their higher end bandsaw machines that work really well to keep saw dust buildup under control. Not the Hammer models but the Felder and the price includes a mounting piece. Put these stiffer bristle brushes at almost a vertical stance as the pressure is applied. I use them on my Northfield 27" bandsaw with altered mounting positions. V Mordt Rolfe Chicago
Marius, the varnish truly looks amazing! I might consider building furniture using MDFs now. Your new wheel design is awesome too. Great video!
Das Maschinenbaustudium ist absolut die richtige Wahl für dich👍
well done MH you will have a successful career in what ever you choose your thought process to problems is spot on
Tom Palmer Thanks!
Ok. I found your band saw build on the site you posted. Real good job on that also. I watch some videos from German and UK woodworkers, they are impressive, to say the least. Enjoy yourself just a you are, amazing.
TheRocketbob22 Thank you!. And to answer your other question. I'm German.
Hi Marius, this is a really interesting video with loads of useful info. Just one point of safety, running the saw with the covers off is only one step away from what I like to call the flying band of death! Even if you only have the covers over the on off switch area and don't stand to close would be better then nothing. This would mean the blade wraps around that cover and hopefully not you.
Please keep the videos coming, they are fun to watch and learn from 😊
Very cool. I already found this video on woodgears, and was confused when I couldn't find it on UA-cam. Thanks for sharing!
Michael Laffin I publish my videos on Saturday normally. But I sent it to Matthias earlier.
Wow... what an amazing thinker you are.... just like Matthias Wandel. Keep up the innovative work.
Look how easy that glue up was with that nice big bucket!
(really awesome work, those look spectacular)
Kirby Weldon Haha, I still hate the bucket.
Handwerklich beeindruckend. Größten Respekt!
I have just finished watching all of your videos, great work, i look forward to seeing more in the future, a true talent.
Great job ! your "trick" for the wobble setting was so helpfull and efficient for me !!!
Nice use of ingenuity creating tools from mostly wood. Your video production is very good also.!! Nice job!
Sehr interessantes Video. Mit ganz ähnlichen Problemen an meinem Bandsägewerk beschäftige ich mich auch gerade - werde mir deine Lösungsansätze merken!
Matthias Burger Freut mich, wenn es dir hilft!
Great video Marius! I am continually impressed with your abilities and how well your videos are produced.
Keep up the good work!
Chem Cody Thank you very much!
You are already a brilliant engineer! Congratulations on such incredible work.
When I cut green wood, I soak the blades in a solution of Murphy's Oil Soap and water for a couple of hours. It dissolves wood sap like magic. Dry it and spray with WD 40 to keep it from rusting. I don't have a band full sized band saw yet but it works great on the circular saws and my old three wheeler. It's good to keep several blades and change often.
Excellent video, well produced and very informative. Its nice to see a younger enthusiast these days. Keep up the excellent work.
creast Thanks man! Really appreciated.
Good work Marius. I appreciate the detail and your elegant solutions. Thank you.
You are an amazing young man. Thanks for the video.
Nice work! I'll bet Matthias would be pleased!
For such a young fellow, your woodworking and video-making skills are amazing (as is your English). Bravo. I'll definitely by a subscriber and look forward to your videos.
They turned out really well, also like that finish you used on the MDF, awesome.
BearWoodWork So do I. Thank you.
Now that is a great and use full build, good job.
Отличная работа. Удачи вам в ваших дальнейших проектах.
Great job on the wheels. I built the same band saw and did my wheels in regular plywood.going to make them out of MDF next.
Wow that is an awesome video, you are a very smart guy and you make that look easy.
Very informative and awsome editting. Thanks.
Sweet! I appreciate these young engineers. Marius, way better than "good enough."
Your wheels are a work of art! I like the design and am going to borrow at least the idea for the 24" bandsaw I'm building. I too prefer MDF over plywood for its higher density, uniformity and stability. 4000 feet per minute seems a bit fast. I try for about 2500. Cuts aren't as fast and you have to slow the feed rate, but the blade stays cooler and lasts a lot longer. Whatever you prefer of course. For the holes I'd recommend using a template and cutting them with a router and top bearing flush rim bit. Those big hole saws really tend to load up. And you can get really artistic with your hole shapes.
Great work; you are a credit to UA-cam.... and you have another subscriber.
I like this format, keep up the good work and production quality. Sehr gut gemacht!
Thanks
Nice upgrade, Marius, and top notch video quality.
Thank you very much!
Great video! When I get around to building mine (have had all the parts and plans for almost a year now) I think I'll make your version of the wheels!
AnUnknownSource Good idea, thank you! And get started now. You won't regret it.
Brilliant work and outstanding results, thank you for sharing.
I watched your video about making bandsaw wheels and I think you did an amazing job with them. You whole saw is very impressive. I bought some plans some time ago to build a bandsaw but the more I thought about it, I just ordered a 17" Grizzly bandsaw with cast iron wheels and huge cast iron table. I have so much work for clients waiting I cannot afford to build a bandsaw but I would love the challenge. Great job. John the Handyman in Las Vegas.
Very talented! You produce great work love watching your videos
Chris Walden Thanks for these kind words!
Nice job Marius. I enjoy your initiative. You come up with some great ideas. Keep up the good work. Take care, Bob
Those wheels are a beauty
very very well done - it works perfectly righ now.
Great video and great saw. I'm about to start leaning to use a band saw so this was really helpful. Thanks for sharing
Excellent upgrade options, you are very cleaver indeed...
A nice improvement on the wheels, Marius, looks more professional.
Great video as usual.
The good cut result . I like it.
Nice save! Watching your video suggests some improvements in the process. I also don't have a metal lathe LOL!
If you ever have to re-make wheels there is a trick that would help the alignment issue you ran into when adjusting the wobble on the wheel before gluing the bearing flange. Move the flange as you were doing by tapping on it but before you release it for gluing drill through it and use a dowel in the hole, this will ensure you install the flange exactly where you had it before and it will be Ok since you will balance it later...
Gilberto Diaz Castro I thought about this method, but didn't use it because I thought if the pieces move just a tiny fraction while drilling then it would screw up the alignment and I can't fix it. In theory this is a perfect idea, but it's hard to make.
Very nice and excellent details. Sei molto bravo ! Thanks for the video
Nice job. They look great
Probably you won't see this, but I am thinking that you made these wheels before you got your X Carve. I just made some very accurate concentric circles on my X-Carve from MDF and built them up to create a replacement base for a floor standing drill press. Now I am watching your video right after Mr. Wandel's big band saw build, I am thinking the X-Carve can make very accurate MDF band saw wheels, or at least I am going to try it as soon as he releases his new band saw plans in January. Definitely going to use your idea of a channel instead of trying to stretch inner tubes over the outside.
I see everything. The X-Carve maybe makes accurate circles, but you'll still have to turn them afterwards.
Actually, I was thinking of the problem of making holes in the bearing blocks to precisely match the ball bearings without having the perfectly sized hole saw, and of machining some alignment holes in the wheels and bearing blocks so that I would not have to rely on my imperfect skills with a hand held drill, and avoiding the fuss of tapping the bearing blocks into place to get everything aligned.
Anyway, you are doing wonderful things in your shop and you are inspiring people all over the world. I really enjoy your videos.
You may at a future date add a simple belt tensioner for the drive belt it'll keep it from slapping out and potentially coming off of the pully on first start up.
mr. Marius Hornberger thanks for your sharing ...
I love the way you work and the precision and care about details you use. Great job. Mathias bandsaw was already great and you are possibly improving it.
I'm a bit concerned abot the speed though. It seems a tiny bit too high.
mill a groove all the way around on both sides to allow the rubber to be pushed into, keeping the dust from being ABLE to migrate between the rubber and the wheel,..
A very impressive result. The amount of detail you provided was just right, imo. Subbed. :)
Ola muito bom um dos projeto mais perfeito que vi ate agora sobre serra de fita.Nota 1000
Hallo
There is something else about the motor you could do, it might be possible to make it run at two speeds and make it start properly also by using a special switch. You should first open the box on the motor and see how many wires come from the motor into the box, if there are 9 it is possible to make it run at a lower speed by reducing the number of poles and at full speed (1500 and 3000 rpm for example) and use a star-duble star or star-triangle start config, if there are 6 it is possible to use a star-triangle start, and if there are only three you cant do much but someone with expertise could disassemble it and do the proper modifications, also the proper way to start the motor is with a star-triangle config because in triangle config the starting current is 4 to 8 times bigger than the running one as oppose to a star config in which the starting current is only 3 times bigger than the running current. I will try to explain more. The motor has a rotor that is so called in short-circuite and a stator with a multiple of 6 windings but there are basicaly three coils, one for each phase. Normaly from the factory there should be 9 wires coming out of the casing, three for one end, three for the other end and three for the midle of the coils so depending on the aplication the connections are made, but sometimes these wires are conected inside the motor. These wires could be connected in a few ways (sometimes incorect making the motor to run hot and ineficient, noisy ...)
Alexandru Alanei that is a good idea
easier hole saw cutting: drill one or two holes (1cm or so) on the waste side of the cut, intersecting the cut line. The sawdust exits the kerf onto the holes and no more burning!
I already got that hint from another comment. But still thank you! I will definitely do that for the next hole saw hole.
I figured about 20 people would tell you this. But I wanted to get in on the razzing. I cannot tell you how many doors I burned my way through before someone told me this. It would be so convenient if we could learn all of this stuff before we ever built something.
Thanks for that advice!!! I hate my holesaw for that reason. Maybe there is hope :)
Subbed because the video for making wheels is f-ing fab enough on it's own. But then I discovered you use the saw for making bowl blanks for turning. And then, then sir, you got my sub. XD
Cenrifugal.... Good job on the saw!
the varnish was well worth the money
Heel mooi gedaan. Vakmanschap is meesterschap.
Super Ideen und ein Klasse Video. Einen Tipp hab ich noch für das Einpressen deiner Kugellager: Nutz deine Ständerbohrmaschine und einen recht soliden Holzblock als Presse ;)
Nice! I would love to build one some day.
Great videos. They are project inspireing. Thanks. I will give you a great hint if you want to harden a wood surface. I use thin CA glue on a surface if I want it to be durable. The thin Ca will soke into the porous wood and it becomes like solid plastic. ...Cheers
+lewandlo Cool, I'll probably give this a try in the future.
the bandclamp at 4:00 is a great idea
Very nice. A lot of work well done. Excellent video......
felicitaciones , todos tus vídeos son excelentes desde cali - Colombia te saludo, mil gracias .
I don't know anything about that what you've done there, but it's 1:42 in the morning, and it was damn interesting. Keep the good work up!
Nurfah Haha, thank you very much!
Marius Hornberger No problem! I saw your Chips-seperater project too, and it's really awesome! I was like "hopefully it works as well as he wants it!"
(Da sieht man es mal wieder, die Deutschen sind die Tüftler. :D :D )
Nurfah Hab ich mir doch gedacht, dass du auch deutsch bist. Danke nochmal ;)
Amazing work.
Marius,
Excellent work and results! To share a recommendation, avoid using drywall screws. They are barely strong enough for drywall. My go to company for screws happens to be a German company:
GRK Fasteners also called UberGrade
nice job...lots of nice features.
Amazing work, also now I understand why they sell glue in a bucket (4:02) :-)
I liked all the details. A bit to fast for me but it seems to work fine. Keep on posting.
I/We can see why the improvement made you happy. Damn good job. You young guys are impressive. Are you in the USA?
You & Matthias have the same everything
At 16:00 "It runs really quiet"
I'm like " IT DOES? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!"
Carsten Svendsen Yeah, but you didn't have the direct comparison.
Great video mate, well explained and shown
Great job Marcus! Could you please tell me how you cut the rubber to meet lip of the wheel exactly?
Great work!!!!!!!!! aprendi muito com seu vídeo, muito obrigado. Parabéns!
Great job , i think the beter homemade Bandsaw i have ever seen . Can you give more informations about the dimensions and the plans? Bravo again
Read the video description for that.
Outstanding job sir!
Is the homemade bandsaw still going strong? Wow, huge audio quality difference.
very good work, I m impressed