*FAQ -* UPDATED 03/02/2019 *Contact Adhesive/Cement* - Chances are your glue and XPS Foam are going to be different to mine so the compatibility may vary. The solvents in the contact cement could possibly melt your foam, it melted the surface of mine but only a tiny bit. Be sure to apply in very thin coats and test the adhesive on some scrap pieces first. If you're still having problems you could try a water based contact adhesive (the drying times are much longer). Or simply use low temp hot glue (not as temperature resistant or tough and you might need to cover up your joins if you can't get them flush and be sure to get rid of your glue strings). UPDATE - Water based Contact Adhesive sucks, try a construction adhesive suitable for foam like Liquid Nails Fast Grab (the kind that comes in tubes for a chalking gun) *Expanded PVC / EPVC / Foam PVC* - I use 3mm (0.118 inches). This stuff might be harder to get in the states than I first thought. You can order it from Lowes in the US if they don't have it on the shelf. *Spider* - Still unidentified, haven't worked up the courage to look it up in the spider directory, too many spiders.
@@Miscast I bet! I just finished watching all of your terrain videos and I really love your channel aesthetic - super cohesive & well presented, and the content makes me desperately want to build stuff. Also it's late, you ought to be asleep mate.
You have changed my scenery making life! that PVC board is amazing. After watching this video I went to the local big warehouse and found some - not only is it as easy to cut as you say, but I can now make some decent fields with fences that I couldn't make before using MDF or other items.
I must mention, some hobby stores that sell model trains have molds for hills and such along with trees and other small terrain. Great if you need some small bits like little bushes or trees.
Awesome work.. really feeling the aesthetics on this.. and so true about taking notes... it can be as simple as a piece of paper but save you tons of head space down the road!
You should switch to an airbrush for the spray applications of paint. Easier to control, cheaper paint by volume, and you can hit things lightly to have your underpainting show through. After getting one I have never gone back to spray cans for any reason. Yes they take some getting used to, and yes they are initially expensive, but the trade off in control and quality of work is invaluable. Keep up the great work, love your vids!
Yes, totally agree, I used to have one but have not replaced it. Unfortunately, the initial expense is too much at this stage, hopefully in the future :)
modge podge coat. lets you do whatever you want to foam. depending on the modge podge, it also acts as a hardening agent for the foam to keep it relatively protected.
It's very expensive here in Aus unfortunately. I also don't really like the finish it has so I use a spray matte varnish on projects I need to protect now.
Try Mod Podge for coating your pieces, you can then spray them with can primer. PVA and water doesn’t seal well enough ... can’t take the credit though ... I learned this from Black Magic Craft. Just paying it forward, love the videos!
Great video, I would undercoat with mod podge and black paint. Then seal it afterward in your sealant of choice to give it a tougher coating. Trying to plan a build for an underground caverns and tunnels, for a post apocalyptic setting. Using the Tagoskan Wasteland map by Heroic Maps, for my gaming mat. I had it printed on a PVC 50"x50" banner for £17 including shipping. And this video has given me some ideas, need to build some junk buildings, bridges and scatter pieces as well.
Thanks mate! Mod Podge is a bit expensive here, unfortunately, especially a table worth. I really wanted to keep the grain of the foam if possible. Honestly, after constant club use since making the video its held up well, there's light damage that mod podge may have protected but nothing 5 minutes and some dabs of orange paint can't fix. Great to hear this has given you some ideas!
I recommend Glidden Gripper paint primer for flat surfaces to glue styrofoam together. Their are videos of its effectiveness online. The product is cheap, and easy to apply. The down side would be you have to weigh down the styrofoam you are using, and it's a paint that has to be brushed on.
Those thin long blades aren't designed to be used fully extended... They are designed to be used in the same way you would use a regular stanley knife. When the end goes blunt you extend the blade 1 segment and snap off the blunt bit. You then have a sharp blade again.
@@Miscast Maybe some paint tutorial a la Bob Ross, blog updates on terrain proyects ot simply you answering some questions from twitter or other social media. Anything that doesn´t require heavy editing or any at all.
In the US the aggravation is that hardware stores only sell corrugated PVC for sign material. In order to get closed cell PVA sheets for hobby use we have to special order them from limited availability retailers online, or amazon. Its expensive. I really wish the US big box stores would carry it, I don't know why they only carry the corrugated crap. I only have a few small sheets and those were costly to order.
Hmmm odd. Generally it's us Australians that have trouble finding the right materials. Before I made the video, I checked Lowe's to see if they stocked it, and it said they did. I have no idea, I just figured Lowe's would be the equivalent to our Australian chain hardware stores. One thing I'd try out is asking your local hardware store if you can order it in. That being said the corrugated stuff works pretty okay too, you might need to go thicker like 5mm-ish, and you need to work out how to plug the holes (I use builders filler).
Well to be more precise, they don't stock it in the stores. It is by special order. 6mm in a 2ft x4ft (huzzah, mixing measurements).. is 64 bucks. Not too bad for a sheet that size. The corrugated stuff is stocked in the store just looks awful as bases but it is certainly strong enough to make a non-warpy base. The issue isn't the holes in the sides but the rippled surface, you'd need to use filler and sand smooth. More work, more steps. Corrugated is pretty cheap though.
Haha. When you said "using this for our future projects" I thought future, as in futuristic style, being Warhammer 40k, not the near future in the real world. Cool project. Thanks for sharing.
Haha, well I guess it could be both! My idea with this series to is be able to expand on the table each episode, that way I can include techniques from all different skill levels as time goes on. So if there is something you wanna see, let me know!
Hey man, thank you so much for this video, really well documented and presented. I have checked out some of your other terrain builds and your awesome. legend man keep on making more terrain vids!!
You can use PVA to stick them together. You just need to apply it in small patches so it has gaps to breathe. If it's not drying you probably smothered the whole surface.
Thanks for the tip :) I didn't consider gluing in small patches, my instinct is to cover the whole surface for maximum adhesion, will try that now and update the FAQ if it works.
black magic craft uses mod podge to seal his foam, which seems to protect it when you use spray primers awesome builds by the way! i've been binge watching your chanel
Nice job ...love the colors, If you could show a slower more in-depth look at how you chop them up it would be helpful to us newer guys. Thanks and keep on keeping on!
I wonder if I could use soft sponge foam to do this? Has anyone tried? I'd use a mixed pre-coloured acrylic caulking to smear ove it all to give it a bit of rigidity... Good idea or not?
Well my understudy of table top terrain crafting starts today. And I'm loving your teachings brother! Happy New Year 2020! I look forward to learning all I can from you and other amazing talented Craft Artist. ^_^ Aloha!
mixing spray and brush paint, needs planning. Solvent in spraycans can make stuff boil, especially cheap stuff. Try to stay within brand if doing different layers. Never use cheap spray primer, go industrial or have stuff made.
hey trent thanks for all u do ! i was wondering if u could share the recipe for that desert color scheme in written steps im confused by the numbers going down the vertical column in the chart you made for them are they supposed to be mix ratios?
Trent, is there a possibility that you could make a video on how to plan out a while 6x4ft board thats got inlaid trenches etc? I've always wanted to make a board that is stalingrad esque but I can't get my head around planning these sort of things. I've made small pieces of terrain in the past, but I'm worried that it would just look terrible.
Hey! I'm trying to make this a reality for my local war gaming club depending on if I can get funding to do it. Until then I believe Mel @TheTerrainTutor might be able to help you out, he's got a series going about making trenches that looked pretty darn great!
@@Miscast can't seem to find any of that baseboard here in northwest Ohio , the only thing similar is the very thick stuff they use for insulating houses.
@@johns5748 They sell it at lowes if you have one, you may have to request to order it in :) Otherwise MDF or chipboard will do the job just be sure to seal the whole thing with paint to protect from moisture.
Sure thing! at 5:30 there is a little chart with the paint colors I used and the ratios I mixed them in each layer. The base coat I sprayed is - White Knight 300g Headland® Touch Up Spray Paint Everything after that are Jo Sonja's brand - Turner's Yellow, Cadmium Red, Titanium White, Burnt Umber. Those are just generic paint names that many companies use so you should be able to find equivalents pretty easily if you can't find the same brand :) Hope that helps!
When making this type of terrain, I prefer just using my Kershaw folding knife to make craggy edges. Strong, sharp blade, and I don't have to worry about bits of sharp metal exploding everywhere.
What paints did you use to apply the wash and the spray? Can I use basically anything? Can you use the same paints for minis? Great video, I subscribed.
FYI, I tried using Weldwood Contact Cement to glue together my XPS, and the stuff melted through my foam board faster than acetone. Exactly what product, or brand of contact cement, did you use for this project?
The solvents in my contact cement melted my xps too but only a little bit on the surface. Make sure your layers are super thin and don't transfer the contact cement from the tin to your foam directly, put it on a piece of scrap material and apply it to the foam with a pop stick or bush, you really don't need much at all. It could be different brands of XPS just as much as it could be different brands of contact cement, but for the record I'm using Sika brand of contact cement. The reason I used contact cerement is because the bond is super strong and each part dries separately first. You could possibly lay down a layer of PVA on both surfaces before applying the contact cement to act as a barrier but realistically hot glue might be the most time efficient method. I didn't use hot glue because I wanted to the two pieces to be flush to each other as possible. I also wanted the piece to be as durable as possible in case someone lifted the piece just from the top islands out of a box or something silly. I've had a lot of trouble with low temp hot glue where I live because temperature here is rapidly changing and the glue has a habit of getting unstuck. Any alternative ideas would be great! I'll do some more experimenting and get back to you
Update: I did some research, maybe try Weldwood Nonflammable Contact Cement, it's water based so it has a very long drying time but for this application it should work well.
@@Miscast Thanks for the tip! I'll look into it. I'd love something better than PVC or hot glue to bond these together. Great video by the way, I subbed to your channel and am looking forward to your next project!
Wow, I started watching your during covid when you were working on Arcane Ugly. (really inspired by your solutions to writers block btw). You look so very different in this lmao, it's insane. Still love your stuff! Make what you want to make, content wise, don't listen to all of us. Also make more RPG-creating content because unlike all this rabble I actually know what I want /s
Legendary. Fantastic tutorial. Made a ton of rocky terrain but this really added a few things I"m gonna add next time I make some terrain. What kinda paint did you use? I'll check the rest of the videos to see if you mentioned it elsewhere
Thanks for the kind words :) I use whatever paint I like the colours of, I use all sorts of brands across all my videos, they all perform about the same in most circumstances. Cheap dollar store paints can take a few more coats, and the expensive artist brands tend mix better. In this video is mostly Jo-Sonja brand, which is a bit pricey but it's avalible locally which is mostly why I buy it. Currently I've been experimenting with house paint for my base coats in a similar colour as my spray in the video and that works well too.
No, 2 different things :) Expanded pvc or epvc is closer to plastic than it is foam. It's pretty tough while foamboard is soft. I use foamboard it in lots of my other projects on this channel you're welcome to check out!
Awesome!! I am binge watching all your videos!! Super impressed!! Please do more regular videos.. also just to know what is the thickness of the foam board that you are using in this video?
*FAQ -* UPDATED 03/02/2019
*Contact Adhesive/Cement* - Chances are your glue and XPS Foam are going to be different to mine so the compatibility may vary. The solvents in the contact cement could possibly melt your foam, it melted the surface of mine but only a tiny bit. Be sure to apply in very thin coats and test the adhesive on some scrap pieces first. If you're still having problems you could try a water based contact adhesive (the drying times are much longer). Or simply use low temp hot glue (not as temperature resistant or tough and you might need to cover up your joins if you can't get them flush and be sure to get rid of your glue strings). UPDATE - Water based Contact Adhesive sucks, try a construction adhesive suitable for foam like Liquid Nails Fast Grab (the kind that comes in tubes for a chalking gun)
*Expanded PVC / EPVC / Foam PVC* - I use 3mm (0.118 inches). This stuff might be harder to get in the states than I first thought. You can order it from Lowes in the US if they don't have it on the shelf.
*Spider* - Still unidentified, haven't worked up the courage to look it up in the spider directory, too many spiders.
do you have a link that could be found
Yeah been having a harder time then you guys across the pond seem to. Oh well thats life.
Spider classified.
Classification: Nope
Solution: Exterminatus
You should pin this comment. Great vid!
Always good to hit a scrap piece of foam with a glue or paint you're not sure of.
that moment when you stopped, looked at the cockroach, then continued, was an entire thesis of a mood
lol, thanks for reminding me of this moment, I laughed at it for ages in the edit.
@@Miscast I bet! I just finished watching all of your terrain videos and I really love your channel aesthetic - super cohesive & well presented, and the content makes me desperately want to build stuff. Also it's late, you ought to be asleep mate.
@@Opaqu.e Thanks mate! Thats very kind. I'm currently working on my next video, I can always sleep later ;)
Noticed other terrain makers in the comments, good to see everyone picks up stuff from others.
This is just solid. I love seeing some base material for terrain that can be expanded on to your skill level. Love seeing you back!!!
Thanks a lot! Glad to hear, the future of this series is very exciting.
You have changed my scenery making life! that PVC board is amazing. After watching this video I went to the local big warehouse and found some - not only is it as easy to cut as you say, but I can now make some decent fields with fences that I couldn't make before using MDF or other items.
I must mention, some hobby stores that sell model trains have molds for hills and such along with trees and other small terrain. Great if you need some small bits like little bushes or trees.
You're the Bob Ross of miniature wargaming hobbies
2:34 Looks like some kind of pseudoscorpion, perhaps of the family neobisiidae, but the footage is not clear for proper identification. Nice video.
looked like a flower/crab spider to me like these: Misumessus oblongus or Misumessus lappi
I’ve no idea what the hell they are but it’s nice to see nerds of other topics
A great argument for vented foam and water-soluble adhesives and skewers!
I wish we could get a revisit from this someday. With all the experience you earned over the last few years. 😃
Such a fantastic video. I like the bright colors you used for like a red desert look
Awesome work.. really feeling the aesthetics on this.. and so true about taking notes... it can be as simple as a piece of paper but save you tons of head space down the road!
Applause from Trent Bridge town! Best XPS-to-rock carving I've seen - this is SFX quality pretend cragging.
You should switch to an airbrush for the spray applications of paint. Easier to control, cheaper paint by volume, and you can hit things lightly to have your underpainting show through. After getting one I have never gone back to spray cans for any reason. Yes they take some getting used to, and yes they are initially expensive, but the trade off in control and quality of work is invaluable. Keep up the great work, love your vids!
Yes, totally agree, I used to have one but have not replaced it. Unfortunately, the initial expense is too much at this stage, hopefully in the future :)
modge podge coat. lets you do whatever you want to foam. depending on the modge podge, it also acts as a hardening agent for the foam to keep it relatively protected.
It's very expensive here in Aus unfortunately. I also don't really like the finish it has so I use a spray matte varnish on projects I need to protect now.
Why didn't you just cover the entire surface of every terrain piece in your signature miscast terrain sand?
why dont you PAINT MORE MINIES ! lol i like your videos to thanks for sharing man
@@savagex466-qt1io Ha!
The terrain looks very good. The presentation was well done as well.
I did a Miscast Terrain Marathon today and I was wondering when the next video would come out.
Try Mod Podge for coating your pieces, you can then spray them with can primer. PVA and water doesn’t seal well enough ... can’t take the credit though ... I learned this from Black Magic Craft. Just paying it forward, love the videos!
Have you ever tried BMC's adding black acrylic paint to mod podge primes it. Creates a tough shell and protects the foam from melting.
Those textures are awesome! Time to get practicing.
Mate, this us awesome, loving the Mars / Klandathu look of the senery.
Great video, I would undercoat with mod podge and black paint. Then seal it afterward in your sealant of choice to give it a tougher coating.
Trying to plan a build for an underground caverns and tunnels, for a post apocalyptic setting. Using the Tagoskan Wasteland map by Heroic Maps, for my gaming mat. I had it printed on a PVC 50"x50" banner for £17 including shipping. And this video has given me some ideas, need to build some junk buildings, bridges and scatter pieces as well.
Thanks mate! Mod Podge is a bit expensive here, unfortunately, especially a table worth. I really wanted to keep the grain of the foam if possible. Honestly, after constant club use since making the video its held up well, there's light damage that mod podge may have protected but nothing 5 minutes and some dabs of orange paint can't fix.
Great to hear this has given you some ideas!
The partially melted look on some pieces adds to the terrain, almost like it's heavily corroded lava flows or wind erosion of soft rock.
I recommend Glidden Gripper paint primer for flat surfaces to glue styrofoam together. Their are videos of its effectiveness online. The product is cheap, and easy to apply. The down side would be you have to weigh down the styrofoam you are using, and it's a paint that has to be brushed on.
Keep up the great videos man. One of my favorite channels. Solid tutorials.
Thanks a bunch, means a lot!
Those thin long blades aren't designed to be used fully extended... They are designed to be used in the same way you would use a regular stanley knife. When the end goes blunt you extend the blade 1 segment and snap off the blunt bit. You then have a sharp blade again.
Not gonna lie the sound of the lil blade ricocheting sounded badass 1:17
Rockin
hahahah, I was looking for a comment like this, of course it'd be you Wyloch!
You have such a relaxing voice, i can watch your videos for hours. Have you considred doing something longer? I would totally watch it while i pant.
haha thanks! If you have any ideas on long form content you'd like to see let me know :)
@@Miscast Maybe some paint tutorial a la Bob Ross, blog updates on terrain proyects ot simply you answering some questions from twitter or other social media. Anything that doesn´t require heavy editing or any at all.
@@STRATOABLE Sounds fun, I'd love to do a Q&A type thing eventually!
OH MY GOD THAT PSUEDOSCORPION WAS ADORABLE
In the US the aggravation is that hardware stores only sell corrugated PVC for sign material. In order to get closed cell PVA sheets for hobby use we have to special order them from limited availability retailers online, or amazon. Its expensive. I really wish the US big box stores would carry it, I don't know why they only carry the corrugated crap. I only have a few small sheets and those were costly to order.
Hmmm odd. Generally it's us Australians that have trouble finding the right materials. Before I made the video, I checked Lowe's to see if they stocked it, and it said they did. I have no idea, I just figured Lowe's would be the equivalent to our Australian chain hardware stores. One thing I'd try out is asking your local hardware store if you can order it in.
That being said the corrugated stuff works pretty okay too, you might need to go thicker like 5mm-ish, and you need to work out how to plug the holes (I use builders filler).
Well to be more precise, they don't stock it in the stores. It is by special order. 6mm in a 2ft x4ft (huzzah, mixing measurements).. is 64 bucks. Not too bad for a sheet that size. The corrugated stuff is stocked in the store just looks awful as bases but it is certainly strong enough to make a non-warpy base. The issue isn't the holes in the sides but the rippled surface, you'd need to use filler and sand smooth. More work, more steps. Corrugated is pretty cheap though.
@@meatybtz Gotcha, I'm using 3mm (0.118inch) EPVC for my projects and I believe Lowes sells that too :)
Super well shot and great information. Will be checking our more of your content. Keep it up!!!
Haha. When you said "using this for our future projects" I thought future, as in futuristic style, being Warhammer 40k, not the near future in the real world. Cool project. Thanks for sharing.
Haha, well I guess it could be both! My idea with this series to is be able to expand on the table each episode, that way I can include techniques from all different skill levels as time goes on. So if there is something you wanna see, let me know!
Miscast Terrain yeah, love the channel. I like modular terrain too. Keep it on the generic side, and you can reuse.
They look awesome - nice simple approach. Great tip on the pvc sheet - will have a look fir that. Warping = 😡😡😡 Thanks another great vid!
Man, i love your videos. You and Black Magic Craft are the best
Hey man, thank you so much for this video, really well documented and presented. I have checked out some of your other terrain builds and your awesome. legend man keep on making more terrain vids!!
+1 for the contact cement. I also use that for a lot of things, especially in areas where air drying glue won't be getting any air
You can use PVA to stick them together. You just need to apply it in small patches so it has gaps to breathe. If it's not drying you probably smothered the whole surface.
Thanks for the tip :) I didn't consider gluing in small patches, my instinct is to cover the whole surface for maximum adhesion, will try that now and update the FAQ if it works.
Your lighting and shots look great. Thanks for the video.
Cheers! My pleasure :)
That would look great on an Epic 40k battlefield.
1:16, this is how Carl lost his eye in the comics.
I always love these videos. Great work, as always!
Very Beautiful Terrain
black magic craft uses mod podge to seal his foam, which seems to protect it when you use spray primers
awesome builds by the way! i've been binge watching your chanel
Nice job ...love the colors, If you could show a slower more in-depth look at how you chop them up it would be helpful to us newer guys. Thanks and keep on keeping on!
Thanks Shawn! Not really sure how much more in depth I can go to be honest, if you give it a go I think you'll pick it up very quick!
Feeling inspired to finish my table after exams.
Cheers mate.
Awesome! Good luck with the exams and table!
Great video as usual! Keep up the great work mate!
First time on your channel. The production value of your videos is awesome! Also very informative.
Thanks!
Tyranid infestation detected... Solution: EXTERMINATUS ... ... ... execute...
Good stuff. I made my terrain in a very similar way. But I used mdf for the bases.
I love the colors, really a great video of how to make some cool Mars desert hill's.
Many thanks for showing and please keep up the good work ;-))
I’m going to make these but paint them like stone and apply flocking so they’re like small mountains or big hills. who knows.
Yas queen. They look awesome.
XD Thanks!
Fantastic video. Great editing and closeup shots. I also appreciated u including the mistakes and your tips as u went along. I subscribed :)
I wonder if I could use soft sponge foam to do this? Has anyone tried? I'd use a mixed pre-coloured acrylic caulking to smear ove it all to give it a bit of rigidity... Good idea or not?
Well my understudy of table top terrain crafting starts today. And I'm loving your teachings brother! Happy New Year 2020! I look forward to learning all I can from you and other amazing talented Craft Artist. ^_^ Aloha!
Awesome video as always brother!
Great video! Would be awesome to see you tackle some sci-fi buildings or structures in the future.
Wow! As you put it, really cool. Really cool. A joy to watch. Subscribed and added this video to a how to playlist
Thanks a bunch! :D
@@Miscast and the video quality is amazing to. I'm just using my smart phone and it shows
Awesome terrain. Looks like mars theme terrain. Just what I need for my mechanicus kill team
mixing spray and brush paint, needs planning. Solvent in spraycans can make stuff boil, especially cheap stuff. Try to stay within brand if doing different layers. Never use cheap spray primer, go industrial or have stuff made.
I wouldn't stress to much honestly
this will be perfect for my ad mech
Creative, effective and beautiful job...have to try it!
Thanks! Hope you do :D
hey trent thanks for all u do ! i was wondering if u could share the recipe for that desert color scheme in written steps im confused by the numbers going down the vertical column in the chart you made for them are they supposed to be mix ratios?
how would you adjust the paint scheme to make it less Martian and more deserty?
I have seen the thumbnail and thought he is baking chocolate cake XD
Awesome video mate
Ps, what thickness epvc did you use?
@@hellodave93 3mm! :)
You, Luke APS and Miniac are the big three of the miniature wargaming universe
Aw man, thank you, that's awesome. I love both Luke and Scott's work a whole lot and their contribution to the hobby is the best around in my opinion.
Miscast, u have the tools like Dexter Morgan and ur doing 40k Terrain Art!
What is the name of this board... Thank you for being creative
look really nice for some martian terrain.
Trent, is there a possibility that you could make a video on how to plan out a while 6x4ft board thats got inlaid trenches etc? I've always wanted to make a board that is stalingrad esque but I can't get my head around planning these sort of things. I've made small pieces of terrain in the past, but I'm worried that it would just look terrible.
Hey! I'm trying to make this a reality for my local war gaming club depending on if I can get funding to do it. Until then I believe Mel @TheTerrainTutor might be able to help you out, he's got a series going about making trenches that looked pretty darn great!
Great video! Your content has helped me a ton with creating terrian
Is the baseboard you used a single piece of foam, for the foam sandwiched between two sheets of what appears to be some type of solid sheathing?
It's EPVC. it's a sheet of foam that is tough like plastic :)
@@Miscast can't seem to find any of that baseboard here in northwest Ohio , the only thing similar is the very thick stuff they use for insulating houses.
@@johns5748 They sell it at lowes if you have one, you may have to request to order it in :) Otherwise MDF or chipboard will do the job just be sure to seal the whole thing with paint to protect from moisture.
I love all the spider kin
Love your vids man keep it up
I cannot find XPS foam that is thick enough for the life of me...does anyone know where I can order some online??
2:27 Excuse me, I love Hotglue!!!
Could you list out what paints you used! Love the look!!
Sure thing! at 5:30 there is a little chart with the paint colors I used and the ratios I mixed them in each layer.
The base coat I sprayed is - White Knight 300g Headland® Touch Up Spray Paint
Everything after that are Jo Sonja's brand - Turner's Yellow, Cadmium Red, Titanium White, Burnt Umber. Those are just generic paint names that many companies use so you should be able to find equivalents pretty easily if you can't find the same brand :) Hope that helps!
@@Miscast Thanks!!
Just found your channel…..great stuff. Do you do any 1/35 scale modelling?
When making this type of terrain, I prefer just using my Kershaw folding knife to make craggy edges. Strong, sharp blade, and I don't have to worry about bits of sharp metal exploding everywhere.
I think a knife like that would be perfect! Unfortunately, I just don't know how to sharpen a knife
You're a legend
What brand of contact cement do you use?
Great as always!
Greetings from Germany
These videos are so amazing! There is nothing like soothing music and building terrain :)
Awesome! I did a full set of hills that have the same, mars colors, as yours. Love them to this day ^^D
Oh cool! I love the colour. My biggest inspiration was the movie The Martian
Back then I had a full 4/4 table. Its gone now, but I have a plan to rebuild it ua-cam.com/video/eycqnz1ccM8/v-deo.html&list=PL265AB7C3B0C9609E
What paints did you use to apply the wash and the spray? Can I use basically anything?
Can you use the same paints for minis?
Great video, I subscribed.
FYI, I tried using Weldwood Contact Cement to glue together my XPS, and the stuff melted through my foam board faster than acetone.
Exactly what product, or brand of contact cement, did you use for this project?
The solvents in my contact cement melted my xps too but only a little bit on the surface. Make sure your layers are super thin and don't transfer the contact cement from the tin to your foam directly, put it on a piece of scrap material and apply it to the foam with a pop stick or bush, you really don't need much at all. It could be different brands of XPS just as much as it could be different brands of contact cement, but for the record I'm using Sika brand of contact cement. The reason I used contact cerement is because the bond is super strong and each part dries separately first. You could possibly lay down a layer of PVA on both surfaces before applying the contact cement to act as a barrier but realistically hot glue might be the most time efficient method. I didn't use hot glue because I wanted to the two pieces to be flush to each other as possible. I also wanted the piece to be as durable as possible in case someone lifted the piece just from the top islands out of a box or something silly. I've had a lot of trouble with low temp hot glue where I live because temperature here is rapidly changing and the glue has a habit of getting unstuck. Any alternative ideas would be great!
I'll do some more experimenting and get back to you
Update: I did some research, maybe try Weldwood Nonflammable Contact Cement, it's water based so it has a very long drying time but for this application it should work well.
@@Miscast Thanks for the tip! I'll look into it.
I'd love something better than PVC or hot glue to bond these together. Great video by the way, I subbed to your channel and am looking forward to your next project!
Hola. Qué material es el que utilizas? Me he quedado alucinado y quiero hacerlo. Soy de espalda. Saludos.
Hello! EPVC Board and XPS Foam :)
Miscast Terrain gracias!!!!
Wow, I started watching your during covid when you were working on Arcane Ugly. (really inspired by your solutions to writers block btw). You look so very different in this lmao, it's insane. Still love your stuff! Make what you want to make, content wise, don't listen to all of us. Also make more RPG-creating content because unlike all this rabble I actually know what I want /s
Hey any suggestions for what citadel paints to use to replicate your red color scheme? I'm looking for a red desert base theme.
Maybe try Skrag Brown, Jokaero Orange and Troll Slayer Orange, I think might be the closest matches
@@Miscast Hey thanks for getting back so quickly! What do you think about doombull brown?
@@adwag3573 I think that would work well too. Really any sort of colours in that range will do well I think.
Great result.
Legendary. Fantastic tutorial. Made a ton of rocky terrain but this really added a few things I"m gonna add next time I make some terrain. What kinda paint did you use? I'll check the rest of the videos to see if you mentioned it elsewhere
Thanks for the kind words :) I use whatever paint I like the colours of, I use all sorts of brands across all my videos, they all perform about the same in most circumstances. Cheap dollar store paints can take a few more coats, and the expensive artist brands tend mix better. In this video is mostly Jo-Sonja brand, which is a bit pricey but it's avalible locally which is mostly why I buy it. Currently I've been experimenting with house paint for my base coats in a similar colour as my spray in the video and that works well too.
@@Miscast Sweet thanks man!
Hi mate, do have the name of the hardware store you got the XPS foam from? Presuming you got it from Aus, cheers!
Bunnings. Ask the trade desk :)
Hi, i sprayed the primer on the polyfoam but it softened the surface a lot, how should i fix it? Should i coat it with vynil glue first? Thanks
Cover it in glue first and spray it further away or do it by hand or with an airbrush. :)
@@Miscast thank you very much! what if i coat the foam with filler instead of pva?
@@SeriousNedo I think you'll be fine! Test on a test piece first before spraying your final piece :)
Love your videos man! Thank you!
great video... quick question....expanded pvc, is that foamboard here in the U.S. ? foam in the middle with paper on both sides?
No, 2 different things :) Expanded pvc or epvc is closer to plastic than it is foam. It's pretty tough while foamboard is soft. I use foamboard it in lots of my other projects on this channel you're welcome to check out!
How did you get foam? I’m from nsw and I can’t find any XPS foam anywhere.
Google 'XPS foam"
Awesome!! I am binge watching all your videos!! Super impressed!! Please do more regular videos.. also just to know what is the thickness of the foam board that you are using in this video?