WANT MORE TOWING INFO? Watch The RVers Season 2, Episode 4 to see my interview with Roadmaster VP David Robinson. MISSED US ON DISCOVERY? Season 2 of The RVers premieres on iTunes on 7/7/20, and Episode 1 is a FREE DOWNLOAD that day only! FREE TOW BAR COVER & HITCH RECEIVER LOCK! Order a Nighthawk tow bar factory direct at (800) 669-9690 and say you want the "RVGEEKS PACKAGE" to get a free heavy duty cover and lock, an $89 value! FREE SHIPPING INCLUDED!
Just wanted to say thank you RV Geeks, I've been following you both after the Wynns did a collab with you years ago on solar. We have been full time for three years now with a TT but are making the jump to an older Class A Pusher and I'm eating up the videos here!
Thank you so much. We ordered our Nighthawk directly from Roadmaster and mentioned the RVGEEKS during the order process and received $75.43 discount towards our installation cost. Woo hoo. Thank you for all the work you do to make our adventure more enjoyable and safe. Jewel
Installed an InvisaBrake about 2 1/2 years ago.... absolutely love it. While it is possible for the owner to install it themselves, it is VERY involved. I would highly recommend people take an honest evaluation of their mechanical/electrical skills before starting.
We agree, Monte. When we said a handy do-it-yourselfer could handle it, we probably should have said a "very" handy do-it-yourselfer. Even though we consider ourselves "very handy" we were happy to let Roadmaster handle it.
We've used a Ready Brute Elite for 8 years and it has never missed beat. Much less expensive than a tow bar and separate braking system. Takes all of 10 seconds to connect the brake and breakaway cables. No power required.
I have the same braking system as you, it’s 8 years old and last year The actuator arm stuck open snap the cable and fried my brakes on the tow vehicle, I haven’t towed this year I’m too scared to, I’m thinking about sending it to the factory and have them go through it.
I have had this for over a year. I have the BlackHawk 2 All Terrain tow bar with the Invisibrake. I am disabled and can hook my SUV up to my MH in five minutes-- without pain. That is extremely important to me! I pulls my toad like it's on glass. In fact the first time that I drove away, with my SUV attached, I thought I lost it because I could not feel any difference than not having a toad. Roadmaster makes a superior product and have the best customer service that I've ever spoken with. I will be adding more Roadmaster products to my coach this year.
It’s always great to hear that so many of our fellow RVers have had the same fantastic experiences with Roadmaster and their products that we have. Thanks for sharing!
PERFECT TIMING !!!! I've been researching the INVISIBRAKE for the last week. Not sure if you guys are up at Harrison right now. Super cold and rainy here. In a couple of weeks you'll probably have to break out your heated water hose.
So glad to hear about the timing, Ray! As far as the weather, we’ve been hearing hot miserably hot most of the continent is, so rainy and cold is good!
I’m really glad I saw your video. I purchased the complete Roadmaster system wiring and all. I like the quality of the Nighthawk tow bar and the simplicity of the invisibrake . Customer service was awesome. The RV Geeks Package is a nice quality package as well. Thanks for the info.
As far as functionality, elegance, ease of use and invisibility goes I think there is nothing for an RV with air brakes that tops the M&G braking system. It is a fully proportional braking system that gets connected to the RV using only one air hose. No electricity needed. We built this system in our 2002 Honda CR-v. It consists of a small cylinder that is mounted on the main brake cylinder and a small buffer to activate the breakaway system if need be. The two components are weather resistant like all other engine parts under the hood. I did the installation myself.
If we had a newer RV with a port at the back specifically designed to provide air to the toad, we'd have been more inclined to go with a system like yours, or SMI or even Roadmaster's. Maybe it's the fact that I started my bus driving career in GM "Old Look" 1950's era transit buses with air systems that leaked like sieves, or the demonstrations I did for trainees that showed what happens when the air pressure drops below about 80-90 PSI (brakes dynamite)... but I just wasn't able to wrap my head around tapping in the rig's air system! Your system sounds great, too.
Brake dynamite. Never heard that one :-) We learn something new every day. Thank you. Our 2002 Winnebago Journey is our first experience with air brakes. Although I’ve always wondered how extreme the reaction would be when the air pressure would drop below the safe level and the parking brakes would engage I’ve never been curious enough to try. The brake air for our toad is taken from one of the rear brakes. I believe our M&G system came with some simple instructions on how to do that. It did not look like a big or difficult job. However, our rig came with that connector already installed by the previous owner. Materials would probably cost somewhere around $50. . Could it be dangerous for a DIYer to fool around with the air brake system? Sure. But listen to this. When we got our rig the quick coupling of that ¼ inch hitch air line was not working. It seemed to have been scraped off on the road and the remaining line was just open to the air. I only found that out about it a few months after owning the rig when I was looking into the possibilities of adding a toad. It seems the “leak” did not have any direct significant adverse effect on the brakes. (I do imagine something like that would wear the desiccant filter out fast). . I love the fact that the toad brakes become an integral part of the RV brakes.
Have the Invisibrake on our Equinox and love it, however there is a switch that is installed to disable some of the idiot lights since the key has to be in the ACC position to get the car into neutral (Auto Trans). Couldn't use it on our Avalanche since there really wasn't a place to mount it so we had to go with a different type.
A dead pedal requires a lot more force, which is not good for the brake system, and does not stop the car as effectively, especially when it’s really needed, and after repeated stops. The purpose of the vacuum assist is so that the brakes will work normally and effectively in all circumstances.
That’s awesome Donna! Our first Roadmaster tow bar was a Sterling, and it was fantastic. Basically the same as the Nighthawk, but without the lights. Super tow bar.
@@RVgeeks We had ours installed about 2 month before the Nighthawk came out. We would have picked that one no doubt! I can't tell you how many times hubby has tried to fall in behind a vehicle towing something and not see until the last minute. You would think that would be a requirement.
Great question, Todd! That is one downside of flat towing, that you cannot back up. If you have the RV in the car very straight and wanted to back up a foot or two, you might be OK. But the car can only follow the RV, not lead it, without the potential for damaging something. We always make it a point to look and think ahead about where we’re going and not get ourselves pinned into a corner. In 17+ years we’ve probably had to disconnect maybe two or three times from getting ourselves into a situation we couldn’t get out of.
Great question, Don! That well was never used for the spare tire. Our CR-V came with it mounted outside, on the back of the car, so that area was just used for storage anyway.
Hi guys great video, as the camera scanned past your receiver with your car hooked up, it looked like you have something clamped onto the ballmount. What is this item and what is the porpoise? Thanks Ed
Good spotting, Ed. That's a hitch stabilizer (also from Roadmaster... they call it the "Quiet Hitch": amzn.to/3ivzkVn ). It holds the tow bar firmly in place inside the hitch receiver so it doesn't rattle/move. It's very effective at preventing wear over time caused by the stinger (the part on the tow bar that inserts into the hitch receiver on the RV) vibrating/moving while towing. It's not strictly necessary, but since we're full-time and travel a lot, we wanted to be sure things were as stable as possible.
Thanks again for a great video. I just ordered a blue ox through the RV repair shop that's going to install it. But tomorrow morning I'm going to ask which type of braking system he ordered for me. I'm not familiar with all of them. I hope I'm getting something like the system you have. Not that big thing that sits between the brake pedal and this front seat under the steering wheel... Do you have any suggestions of what I should be asking?
Hi Bubba! The first thing we’d ask is if you can switch your order from Blue Ox to a Roadmaster bar! Then we’d look at one of two systems. Either the same one we have…. The InvisiBrake, or an SMI Air Force One. Both great and out of the way.
@@RVgeeks Thank you for your response my friends. I'm so grateful that you always get back to me. Not everyone does that . I believe it's a little too late to change my order. He ordered it on Friday and it should be in this coming Friday.. I have watched a bunch of videos since my comment on your video. I think I will be OK with the entire blue ox system even though I am pretty sure it's going to have the big contraption type that hooks up between the seat and connects to the brake pedal. Right now one of my main concerns is is its supposed to plug in to the cigarrette lighter but my cigarrette lighter is off (no power) when the jeep is off. They may have to add an extra wire and the new cigarrette lighter thingy. 🤷♂️ Also, I'm wondering will that kill the battery of the Jeep. In some of the comments people were concerned about that.
You’ll want to ask your installer about battery charging while driving, ESPECIALLY if you’re required to leave the ignition on while towing! As long as you ordered Blue Ox’s non-binding tow bar, you’ll get similar functionality to Roadmaster. Best of luck with the install, and safe travels!
Hello guys, I hope you are doing well. I have a question and since you are very knowledgeable and experienced I thought you could probably give me your opinion if able. While looking to downsize and change from my 38' fifth wheel and truck they both sold before I had the chance to get my new rig. I am homeless at a sticks & bricks for the moment, and trust me, I do not like it at all. I have a very reliable and virtually maintenance free car which I do not want to give up but I cannot flat tow it; it must be towed on a trailer. I know yours can be flat towed but based on what you have seen during your travels what are your thoughts? Have you seen or do you know of issues getting into places when you are hauling a car on a trailer? I am also a single/solo traveler so all the hitching up and such are done by me with no help. Thank you in advance and have a Happy, safe and prosperous 2021.
Not sure if we should say congratulations or sorry on selling your rig so fast! As full timers, we certainly are big fans of flat towing, but we understand that there are reasons not to do it, exactly like your situation where are you have a great car that you don’t want to get rid of. Our second choice is generally a dolly. Are you certain that your car cannot be dolly towed, and actually requires a trailer? Our primary concern about the trailer is the size of it. At least a dolly is small enough that it can be moved out of the way, and doesn’t take up too much extra room when the car isn’t on it. But a trailer is something that could cause a challenge as far as having enough room for it in a campsite when the car isn’t on it. What is the year make and model of your car, and have you checked the motorhome magazine dinghy towing guide for that year to be 100% certain that it can’t be dolly towed? Most cars that can’t be flat towed can be dolly towed, so we would 100% rule that out before considering a trailer.
Thank you for responding. My car is a Tesla Model 3 and the manufacturer's recommendation is not to tow it. The reason why I bought it over a year ago is because of being virtually maintenance free as there is no oil, gas or many moving parts to deal with. I only add water for the windshield wipers. I can also charge it for free with solar power which I was planning to include a connector to use with the rig's solar array. In addition, when I bought it, I paid an additional $3,000 to have a lifetime of upgrades without having to pay a cent more. Today, this upgrade, is going for around $8,000 for new cars. I love the car and would hate to give it up. I am in Florida but will not be going to the Tampa RV show this year for COVID safety reasons which has made my purchase decisions much more complex. There are hardly any rigs available out there right now and I was truly looking forward to attend the show and leave with a new rig. Once again, thank you and have safe travels and a healthy and prosperous New Year.
Awesome vid guys my parents recently got a 87 Tiffin allegro 32ft class A. I’m the one driving it and love it don’t tell my truck and 5er that lol. I’m trying to figure out if I’d want to go 4 down or dolly since their explorer won’t be towed that munch. Might have to go back to my DVR and rewatch the episode of the RVers and watch your skit with roadmaster again. Keep up great vids and stay safe out there guys
Thanks Ed! Dolly towing is definitely more common among those who don't tow all that often. So if you're not planning to tow their sport-ute all that much, a dolly might be a good choice (or of course if it's not flat-towable, that's the only choice... we assume you checked, but just in case: www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/ ). But the more you tow, the more worth it the added expense is to go 4-wheels down. Seems like most people who start off with a dolly make the switch if they go RVing enough.
Hi Maurice! Sorry we can’t make a video about backing up while flat towing, because you can’t back up while flat towing! It could break something, and is HIGHLY discouraged.
We have the Invisibrake and find that we have to keep our tow car running or the battery will be dead when we reach our destination. Our motor home lights are on. Do you think it was installed incorrectly?
Hi Maggie! Something is definitely installed incorrectly, as the Invisibrake is specifically designed to trickle charge the car battery while towing. That way, the activation of any lights on the car (brake/tail/turn) that use power from the car's battery, won't drain the battery while towing. If your battery is dying during towing, something definitely isn't right. We'd contact your installer, or Roadmaster directly, to see if they can help troubleshoot it.
What is the cost of the permanent invisible key system vs to portable one? We have an older grand Cherokee and I don’t want to buy a new car at this time.
Hi Gina! Here are some sample prices for Roadmaster's built-in InvisiBrake, which we have, and their portable EvenBrake: InvisiBrake: amzn.to/2C2XR38 EvenBrake: amzn.to/38rAZXp Even though you can see that the portable unit is $400 more expensive, the cost of installation for the InvisiBrake will probably bring the total costs closer to each other. There will still be some installation with a portable unit for lighting (tail/brake/turn signals for the car), but in the end it's probably pretty close to the same.
Our RV has a 10,000 lb hitch and towing capacity, but the requirement for brakes on a towed vehicle is usually dependant on the weight of the trailer (or car) being towed, not the RV. If the trailer or car being towed exceeds a certain amount (usually about 3,000 I think, dependinbg on the state), it has to have suplemental braking.
@@RVgeeks so the weight of your vehicle will be within the RV towing capacity... So no need to be braked... Max Un braked towing weight in the UK is 750kg about 1650 lbs only...
@@iman80skid91 As long as the vehicle bring towed isn’t heavier than the allowable limit, no brakes are needed. I checked, and here in the United States, anything being towed that weighs under 3000 pounds does not require brakes.
Hello guys, great to see you back on UA-cam.... welcome back! Great Video....I am bias toward BlueOx, but this looks like a nice setup as well. Safe Travel.
Never mind the law. When it comes your safety, the best law to consider is common sense. If you don't want to get hurt or killed, understand what needs to be done to ensure your own safety and those around you.
Great question, Kenneth! Since all modern cars have had digital odometers for decades now, they don't accumulate miles unless the engine is running. So unless you were towing some old classic with an old-fashioned mechanical odometer, no miles get added when towing.
Hi Guys have you heard from Hebards Travels he hasn't put out a video for over 2 months - do you know if he is ok ? thanks very much - Lance from Canada
Hi Pete. $1,550, including labor and the InvisBrake. Typically takes about 5 hours to install. No good braking system is cheap, but for anyone planning to get a lot of use out of it (like lots of most- or full-timers do), it's a great investment.
Roadmaster factory installation took shop 5 hours. Including the parts and labor, the total was $1,550. Keep in mind this is a high-end system that we plan many years of constant use and benefit from, so well worth the expense for many full-time RVers, or those who simply want a totally hands-off system.
Hi Gnomie. Are you outside the States? Discovery only airs it in the USA. Hope you’re able to catch the free download of episode 1 on iTunes this Tuesday.
1 error in your video.... your rig DOES produce a vacuum/ air system.... it fills the air chambers for your air bag suspension and your air brakes , and on some rigs air-horns . The vacuum pump is a mechanical pump on the Diesel engine , with fills 2-3 air reserve tanks .... hence why you have a air drier/filter that needs to be changed yearly. On newer Prevost, freightliner and spartan chassis , they actually run bigger pumps that can fill tires as well. Most new motor coaches ( 2018-2021) also have air fitting off the braking system with the trailer hitch specifically for air brake systems for trailers & towed vehicles.
Hi Ryan. Yes, diesel RVs have an air system. But it doesn't suck (no vacuum), it blows (pressurized air). All of those systems you mentioned on our RV (suspension, brakes, horns) run on pressurized air. Not vacuum. Our old auxiliary braking system needed vacuum supplied to it to keep the car's braking system (which runs on vacuum) energized. The dedicated vacuum pump supplied that. Hooking it up to the air system on the RV wouldn't have worked.
RVgeeks incorrect, , there is a backside to the pump that does create vacuum, it’s how the EGR cooler opens and closes , along with the fuel pressure control values ... I’m a diesel mechanic BTW, a simple T connector you’d get vacuumed for auxiliary devices
WANT MORE TOWING INFO? Watch The RVers Season 2, Episode 4 to see my interview with Roadmaster VP David Robinson. MISSED US ON DISCOVERY? Season 2 of The RVers premieres on iTunes on 7/7/20, and Episode 1 is a FREE DOWNLOAD that day only! FREE TOW BAR COVER & HITCH RECEIVER LOCK! Order a Nighthawk tow bar factory direct at (800) 669-9690 and say you want the "RVGEEKS PACKAGE" to get a free heavy duty cover and lock, an $89 value! FREE SHIPPING INCLUDED!
Just wanted to say thank you RV Geeks, I've been following you both after the Wynns did a collab with you years ago on solar. We have been full time for three years now with a TT but are making the jump to an older Class A Pusher and I'm eating up the videos here!
That’s awesome, Dylan! Thanks so much for the comment, and congrats on your new rig!
@@RVgeeks Thank you so much! Excited to hook up our 98 Civic as our old reliable toad (one day hope to get a CRV love the older Hondas like yours)
Thank you so much. We ordered our Nighthawk directly from Roadmaster and mentioned the RVGEEKS during the order process and received $75.43 discount towards our installation cost. Woo hoo. Thank you for all the work you do to make our adventure more enjoyable and safe. Jewel
That’s awesome! So great to hear. You’re going to LOVE your Nighthawk!
Installed an InvisaBrake about 2 1/2 years ago.... absolutely love it. While it is possible for the owner to install it themselves, it is VERY involved. I would highly recommend people take an honest evaluation of their mechanical/electrical skills before starting.
We agree, Monte. When we said a handy do-it-yourselfer could handle it, we probably should have said a "very" handy do-it-yourselfer. Even though we consider ourselves "very handy" we were happy to let Roadmaster handle it.
We've used a Ready Brute Elite for 8 years and it has never missed beat. Much less expensive than a tow bar and separate braking system. Takes all of 10 seconds to connect the brake and breakaway cables. No power required.
I have the same braking system as you, it’s 8 years old and last year The actuator arm stuck open snap the cable and fried my brakes on the tow vehicle, I haven’t towed this year I’m too scared to, I’m thinking about sending it to the factory and have them go through it.
There's a reason surge brakes are cheaper....
I have had this for over a year. I have the BlackHawk 2 All Terrain tow bar with the Invisibrake. I am disabled and can hook my SUV up to my MH in five minutes-- without pain. That is extremely important to me! I pulls my toad like it's on glass. In fact the first time that I drove away, with my SUV attached, I thought I lost it because I could not feel any difference than not having a toad. Roadmaster makes a superior product and have the best customer service that I've ever spoken with. I will be adding more Roadmaster products to my coach this year.
It’s always great to hear that so many of our fellow RVers have had the same fantastic experiences with Roadmaster and their products that we have. Thanks for sharing!
PERFECT TIMING !!!! I've been researching the INVISIBRAKE for the last week. Not sure if you guys are up at Harrison right now. Super cold and rainy here. In a couple of weeks you'll probably have to break out your heated water hose.
So glad to hear about the timing, Ray! As far as the weather, we’ve been hearing hot miserably hot most of the continent is, so rainy and cold is good!
I’m really glad I saw your video. I purchased the complete Roadmaster system wiring and all. I like the quality of the Nighthawk tow bar and the simplicity of the invisibrake . Customer service was awesome. The RV Geeks Package is a nice quality package as well. Thanks for the info.
That's great, Steve! Glad to hear it. Thanks much for watching!
As far as functionality, elegance, ease of use and invisibility goes I think there is nothing for an RV with air brakes that tops the M&G braking system. It is a fully proportional braking system that gets connected to the RV using only one air hose. No electricity needed.
We built this system in our 2002 Honda CR-v. It consists of a small cylinder that is mounted on the main brake cylinder and a small buffer to activate the breakaway system if need be. The two components are weather resistant like all other engine parts under the hood. I did the installation myself.
If we had a newer RV with a port at the back specifically designed to provide air to the toad, we'd have been more inclined to go with a system like yours, or SMI or even Roadmaster's. Maybe it's the fact that I started my bus driving career in GM "Old Look" 1950's era transit buses with air systems that leaked like sieves, or the demonstrations I did for trainees that showed what happens when the air pressure drops below about 80-90 PSI (brakes dynamite)... but I just wasn't able to wrap my head around tapping in the rig's air system! Your system sounds great, too.
Brake dynamite. Never heard that one :-) We learn something new every day. Thank you.
Our 2002 Winnebago Journey is our first experience with air brakes. Although I’ve always wondered how extreme the reaction would be when the air pressure would drop below the safe level and the parking brakes would engage I’ve never been curious enough to try.
The brake air for our toad is taken from one of the rear brakes. I believe our M&G system came with some simple instructions on how to do that. It did not look like a big or difficult job. However, our rig came with that connector already installed by the previous owner. Materials would probably cost somewhere around $50.
.
Could it be dangerous for a DIYer to fool around with the air brake system? Sure. But listen to this. When we got our rig the quick coupling of that ¼ inch hitch air line was not working. It seemed to have been scraped off on the road and the remaining line was just open to the air. I only found that out about it a few months after owning the rig when I was looking into the possibilities of adding a toad. It seems the “leak” did not have any direct significant adverse effect on the brakes. (I do imagine something like that would wear the desiccant filter out fast).
.
I love the fact that the toad brakes become an integral part of the RV brakes.
When we bought our Jeep in 2019 for our toad we bought the invisibrake on our Jeep and goes under our drive seat.
Have the Invisibrake on our Equinox and love it, however there is a switch that is installed to disable some of the idiot lights since the key has to be in the ACC position to get the car into neutral (Auto Trans). Couldn't use it on our Avalanche since there really wasn't a place to mount it so we had to go with a different type.
Why do need vacuum assist? The brakes work just fine without vacuum. You just have to apply more force on the pedal. Is the actuator that weak?
A dead pedal requires a lot more force, which is not good for the brake system, and does not stop the car as effectively, especially when it’s really needed, and after repeated stops. The purpose of the vacuum assist is so that the brakes will work normally and effectively in all circumstances.
I think we have the Sterling tow bar with the Invisabrake. It's been about 3 yrs I think that we had them installed. So far, so good! HUGS~Donna
That’s awesome Donna! Our first Roadmaster tow bar was a Sterling, and it was fantastic. Basically the same as the Nighthawk, but without the lights. Super tow bar.
@@RVgeeks We had ours installed about 2 month before the Nighthawk came out. We would have picked that one no doubt! I can't tell you how many times hubby has tried to fall in behind a vehicle towing something and not see until the last minute. You would think that would be a requirement.
i wonder if you can back up and manuever?
Great question, Todd! That is one downside of flat towing, that you cannot back up. If you have the RV in the car very straight and wanted to back up a foot or two, you might be OK. But the car can only follow the RV, not lead it, without the potential for damaging something. We always make it a point to look and think ahead about where we’re going and not get ourselves pinned into a corner. In 17+ years we’ve probably had to disconnect maybe two or three times from getting ourselves into a situation we couldn’t get out of.
The Auxiliary tow break system now is wireless...do you have any experience with that one?
having installed it in the spare tire well, where did you move your spare tire too????
Great question, Don! That well was never used for the spare tire. Our CR-V came with it mounted outside, on the back of the car, so that area was just used for storage anyway.
This is great information. I look forward to seeing more of your videos!
Thanks so much, Mary! And thank you for being a part of The RVers Season 2! ❤️
Hi guys great video, as the camera scanned past your receiver with your car hooked up, it looked like you have something clamped onto the ballmount. What is this item and what is the porpoise? Thanks
Ed
Good spotting, Ed. That's a hitch stabilizer (also from Roadmaster... they call it the "Quiet Hitch": amzn.to/3ivzkVn ). It holds the tow bar firmly in place inside the hitch receiver so it doesn't rattle/move. It's very effective at preventing wear over time caused by the stinger (the part on the tow bar that inserts into the hitch receiver on the RV) vibrating/moving while towing. It's not strictly necessary, but since we're full-time and travel a lot, we wanted to be sure things were as stable as possible.
Thanks again for a great video. I just ordered a blue ox through the RV repair shop that's going to install it. But tomorrow morning I'm going to ask which type of braking system he ordered for me. I'm not familiar with all of them. I hope I'm getting something like the system you have. Not that big thing that sits between the brake pedal and this front seat under the steering wheel... Do you have any suggestions of what I should be asking?
Hi Bubba! The first thing we’d ask is if you can switch your order from Blue Ox to a Roadmaster bar! Then we’d look at one of two systems. Either the same one we have…. The InvisiBrake, or an SMI Air Force One. Both great and out of the way.
@@RVgeeks Thank you for your response my friends. I'm so grateful that you always get back to me. Not everyone does that . I believe it's a little too late to change my order. He ordered it on Friday and it should be in this coming Friday.. I have watched a bunch of videos since my comment on your video. I think I will be OK with the entire blue ox system even though I am pretty sure it's going to have the big contraption type that hooks up between the seat and connects to the brake pedal. Right now one of my main concerns is is its supposed to plug in to the cigarrette lighter but my cigarrette lighter is off (no power) when the jeep is off. They may have to add an extra wire and the new cigarrette lighter thingy. 🤷♂️ Also, I'm wondering will that kill the battery of the Jeep. In some of the comments people were concerned about that.
You’ll want to ask your installer about battery charging while driving, ESPECIALLY if you’re required to leave the ignition on while towing! As long as you ordered Blue Ox’s non-binding tow bar, you’ll get similar functionality to Roadmaster. Best of luck with the install, and safe travels!
@@RVgeeks The Ignition definitely stays off when towing. And were getting the blue ox aluminum system. Thank you so much once again.
I have the same system,
installed myself and absolutely love it...plug and play set it and forget it....
Used Invisibrake since 2012 towing Ford Flex and Ford Explorer behind a Mercedes 3500 Sprinter - avg 13.5 mpg.
Sweet!! 😄
Hello guys, I hope you are doing well. I have a question and since you are very knowledgeable and experienced I thought you could probably give me your opinion if able. While looking to downsize and change from my 38' fifth wheel and truck they both sold before I had the chance to get my new rig. I am homeless at a sticks & bricks for the moment, and trust me, I do not like it at all. I have a very reliable and virtually maintenance free car which I do not want to give up but I cannot flat tow it; it must be towed on a trailer. I know yours can be flat towed but based on what you have seen during your travels what are your thoughts? Have you seen or do you know of issues getting into places when you are hauling a car on a trailer? I am also a single/solo traveler so all the hitching up and such are done by me with no help. Thank you in advance and have a Happy, safe and prosperous 2021.
Not sure if we should say congratulations or sorry on selling your rig so fast! As full timers, we certainly are big fans of flat towing, but we understand that there are reasons not to do it, exactly like your situation where are you have a great car that you don’t want to get rid of. Our second choice is generally a dolly. Are you certain that your car cannot be dolly towed, and actually requires a trailer? Our primary concern about the trailer is the size of it. At least a dolly is small enough that it can be moved out of the way, and doesn’t take up too much extra room when the car isn’t on it. But a trailer is something that could cause a challenge as far as having enough room for it in a campsite when the car isn’t on it. What is the year make and model of your car, and have you checked the motorhome magazine dinghy towing guide for that year to be 100% certain that it can’t be dolly towed? Most cars that can’t be flat towed can be dolly towed, so we would 100% rule that out before considering a trailer.
Thank you for responding. My car is a Tesla Model 3 and the manufacturer's recommendation is not to tow it. The reason why I bought it over a year ago is because of being virtually maintenance free as there is no oil, gas or many moving parts to deal with. I only add water for the windshield wipers. I can also charge it for free with solar power which I was planning to include a connector to use with the rig's solar array. In addition, when I bought it, I paid an additional $3,000 to have a lifetime of upgrades without having to pay a cent more. Today, this upgrade, is going for around $8,000 for new cars. I love the car and would hate to give it up. I am in Florida but will not be going to the Tampa RV show this year for COVID safety reasons which has made my purchase decisions much more complex. There are hardly any rigs available out there right now and I was truly looking forward to attend the show and leave with a new rig. Once again, thank you and have safe travels and a healthy and prosperous New Year.
Awesome vid guys my parents recently got a 87 Tiffin allegro 32ft class A. I’m the one driving it and love it don’t tell my truck and 5er that lol. I’m trying to figure out if I’d want to go 4 down or dolly since their explorer won’t be towed that munch. Might have to go back to my DVR and rewatch the episode of the RVers and watch your skit with roadmaster again. Keep up great vids and stay safe out there guys
Thanks Ed! Dolly towing is definitely more common among those who don't tow all that often. So if you're not planning to tow their sport-ute all that much, a dolly might be a good choice (or of course if it's not flat-towable, that's the only choice... we assume you checked, but just in case: www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/ ).
But the more you tow, the more worth it the added expense is to go 4-wheels down. Seems like most people who start off with a dolly make the switch if they go RVing enough.
RVgeeks awesome thanks for reply and I will ck out the link u put on reply to double ck my research.
Can you make a video about reversing while flat towing
Hi Maurice! Sorry we can’t make a video about backing up while flat towing, because you can’t back up while flat towing! It could break something, and is HIGHLY discouraged.
We have the Invisibrake and find that we have to keep our tow car running or the battery will be dead when we reach our destination. Our motor home lights are on. Do you think it was installed incorrectly?
Hi Maggie! Something is definitely installed incorrectly, as the Invisibrake is specifically designed to trickle charge the car battery while towing. That way, the activation of any lights on the car (brake/tail/turn) that use power from the car's battery, won't drain the battery while towing. If your battery is dying during towing, something definitely isn't right. We'd contact your installer, or Roadmaster directly, to see if they can help troubleshoot it.
What is the cost of the permanent invisible key system vs to portable one? We have an older grand Cherokee and I don’t want to buy a new car at this time.
Hi Gina! Here are some sample prices for Roadmaster's built-in InvisiBrake, which we have, and their portable EvenBrake:
InvisiBrake: amzn.to/2C2XR38
EvenBrake: amzn.to/38rAZXp
Even though you can see that the portable unit is $400 more expensive, the cost of installation for the InvisiBrake will probably bring the total costs closer to each other. There will still be some installation with a portable unit for lighting (tail/brake/turn signals for the car), but in the end it's probably pretty close to the same.
What are people paying for this system compared to others?
What is your unbraked towing capacity of your RV
Our RV has a 10,000 lb hitch and towing capacity, but the requirement for brakes on a towed vehicle is usually dependant on the weight of the trailer (or car) being towed, not the RV. If the trailer or car being towed exceeds a certain amount (usually about 3,000 I think, dependinbg on the state), it has to have suplemental braking.
@@RVgeeks so the weight of your vehicle will be within the RV towing capacity... So no need to be braked...
Max Un braked towing weight in the UK is 750kg about 1650 lbs only...
@@iman80skid91 As long as the vehicle bring towed isn’t heavier than the allowable limit, no brakes are needed. I checked, and here in the United States, anything being towed that weighs under 3000 pounds does not require brakes.
Hello guys, great to see you back on UA-cam.... welcome back! Great Video....I am bias toward BlueOx, but this looks like a nice setup as well. Safe Travel.
Did yalll get the Takata airbag fixed on your car
Sure did! Quite a while back.
I have an old blue ox tow bar.
What new cars can be flat towed behind an rv
Great question, Kenneth! Here's the resource you need: www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/
Never mind the law. When it comes your safety, the best law to consider is common sense. If you don't want to get hurt or killed, understand what needs to be done to ensure your own safety and those around you.
Does flat towing put miles on your car
Great question, Kenneth! Since all modern cars have had digital odometers for decades now, they don't accumulate miles unless the engine is running. So unless you were towing some old classic with an old-fashioned mechanical odometer, no miles get added when towing.
Hi Guys have you heard from Hebards Travels he hasn't put out a video for over 2 months - do you know if he is ok ? thanks very much - Lance from Canada
Sorry Lance, but we don't know them.
@@RVgeeks they were in the Nomads movie
I ended up getting >> Roadmaster Blackhawk Tow Bar 10K
Excellent choice! At this point, we think they'll be burying us in our CR-V. 😂
What was the total cost of this setup a factory?
Hi Pete. $1,550, including labor and the InvisBrake. Typically takes about 5 hours to install. No good braking system is cheap, but for anyone planning to get a lot of use out of it (like lots of most- or full-timers do), it's a great investment.
how much did it cost to install on your crv
Roadmaster factory installation took shop 5 hours. Including the parts and labor, the total was $1,550. Keep in mind this is a high-end system that we plan many years of constant use and benefit from, so well worth the expense for many full-time RVers, or those who simply want a totally hands-off system.
Always good info guys even though I don't pull a dingy lol Have Truck and 5th wheel will travel, soon I hope.
Fingers crossed Nancy!
..."TOAD"... ribbit-ribbit... LOL!
Timely video. Thanks. :-)))) :-))))
Glad you liked it!
My Discovery Channel didn't have the RVers.
Hi Gnomie. Are you outside the States? Discovery only airs it in the USA. Hope you’re able to catch the free download of episode 1 on iTunes this Tuesday.
@@RVgeeks If you are in Canada, Discovery Canada does not air it. It's on "Wild" here in Canada. If you're outside Canada, I'm not sure.
Actually, I just checked the WILD website and I don't see it listed there. I'm not sure anymore. Maybe it's just not airing season 1 right now.
We checked Wild Pursuit too, and think that it might be like Discovery, where Season 2 has already aired.
I do not see that every day the RV towing the car
Most owners of large RVs in North America tow cars behind them. It’s a big thing here!
Good information
1 error in your video.... your rig DOES produce a vacuum/ air system.... it fills the air chambers for your air bag suspension and your air brakes , and on some rigs air-horns . The vacuum pump is a mechanical pump on the Diesel engine , with fills 2-3 air reserve tanks .... hence why you have a air drier/filter that needs to be changed yearly. On newer Prevost, freightliner and spartan chassis , they actually run bigger pumps that can fill tires as well. Most new motor coaches ( 2018-2021) also have air fitting off the braking system with the trailer hitch specifically for air brake systems for trailers & towed vehicles.
Hi Ryan. Yes, diesel RVs have an air system. But it doesn't suck (no vacuum), it blows (pressurized air). All of those systems you mentioned on our RV (suspension, brakes, horns) run on pressurized air. Not vacuum. Our old auxiliary braking system needed vacuum supplied to it to keep the car's braking system (which runs on vacuum) energized. The dedicated vacuum pump supplied that. Hooking it up to the air system on the RV wouldn't have worked.
RVgeeks incorrect, , there is a backside to the pump that does create vacuum, it’s how the EGR cooler opens and closes , along with the fuel pressure control values ... I’m a diesel mechanic BTW, a simple T connector you’d get vacuumed for auxiliary devices
Great music track.
Thanks Jerry! We were so happy to have found that one on SmartSound. 😊