Totally agree bent steel are just horrible. I needed to change a bridge and I'd never tried bent steel saddles (always had block ones for over 40 years) and was persuaded by the "improved sound" argument. I'm used to doing intonation adjustments on tensioned strings and have never had an issue with this but you can't do it on bent saddles. The area of the thread that the screw is engaging with is too small and I would just damage the thread if I tried. Detuning the strings to make adjustments is time consuming. I'm changing back to block saddles.
Best solution: Highwood improved vintage saddles. Note that there are three different widths used (10,5mm, 10,8mm and 11,2mm). so measure your saddles before ordering.
thanks for doing this... really like the rambling way you get your thoughts out there.. discovered some things and was pleasantly entertained in the process.. nice..
The lack of grooves in those bent steel saddles is no good because the strings will create a groove eventually except they will likely create several grooves as they move around so the string will move from one groove to another.
Hold that phone. I've since switched back to bent steel. If you're decking the trem and you don't have enough height adjustment blocks could be the only way, but for floating I think not having the grooves and the extra surface area is better for tuning stability.
I agree! I have a MIM with bent saddles and a Pacifica with block Wilkinson saddles. I far prefer the block saddles and may replace my bent saddles for fear of gnashing my hand.
what about the faux bent steel that are actually solid? like on my 90s crafted in china Squier strat? theyre not a block. theyre shaped like bent steel. but theyre solid. are they better or worse than bent steel?
@@TheBloggingMusician okay thanks. I have a 90s crafted in china with the aforementioned that is my main strat. I also have a Korean that I'm parting out, and the bridge has bent steel. I think eventually im just gonna have to buy better saddles. the Chinese saddles are too long and the low E is hard to intonate. and they're UGLY af.
My bridge and block don’t fit when replacing so I DID replace the whole assembly. Most Fender block saddles have a screw on one side, not in the center.
I don't know, I have both but I love the block steel better. Bent steel is not right because the string support is limited (no groove to make the string stable). They should be replaced immediately. Block Saddles are better and Roller saddles are the best.
Hello ! Thank you for this instructive video about the saddles on a Strat. I do agree with you on the fact that block saddles are far better for the intonation of the guitar than the the bent ones. It provides hence more sustain and are easier to set. See you next video...
Thanks for watching Antoine! Next video is already published ua-cam.com/video/TMyBCoAyqXg/v-deo.html .... and it's a full review of the Fender Player Strat (same guitar).
Northwesr guitars. Perfect fit. northwestguitars.co.uk/products/stratocaster-compatible-10-8mm-bridge-saddles-pack-of-6?currency=GBP&variant=45028485366034&Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwzo2mBhAUEiwAf7wjkhS-WMeewIWRWCUo2jR_tCg-I4R6GiqLEZfQdz6r3jra5QDBqlYfLRoCTpwQAvD_BwE
Yeah must admit I think if I was to spend almost £1000 on a strat the performer could be the better option. I've also heard bad things about the noiseless pickups on the plus.
I got three strats, one with teflon block, one steel block the third one with bent steel. All of them equipped with the same PUs. The Teflon never breaks a string, no matter how franticly I push and pull the trem. Also the tuning remains relativeley stable. Steelblock is a bit more critical, especially the high e tends to break. Bent steel is the worst: Just one trem dive and the g string is a semistep sharp. I got stringbreaks all the time, it is a pain in the ass. Soundwise the differences are marginal when you play distorted. With clean sound the bent steel has a little more attack and "twang" yet less sustain than the blocks. Not really better, just different, a little closer to vintage sounds like Dick Dale, early Dire Straits, SRV (when you want that, go with the bent steel and suffer the same disadvantages those git Gods had to go through). Steel block has tons of sustain but it lacks that chunky attack noise. Teflon sucks both attack and treble. Not really bad, just different. Cool for 80s rock and fusion sounds.
I think there are guitar players that just like to stick to what's became classic for no real reason. I liked the steel blocks tone way better than the bent steel in every single comparison I could find. I also love the look, so I just ordered a set for my strat to try them.
After a while with blocks I agree. Gone back to bent steel. Look better and in hindsight they are smaller with less contact points. The lack of groove means the strings rest naturally too.
I have the exact same problem, with another strat that isn't Fender. Couldn't get intonation right on big E String, the screws where too short to get action right. maybe it's neck relief....how well
Hello, my new American standard Stratocaster 2015 with two pivot screws bridge seems to have the bridge no parallel to the body..the shop put 10 high E gauge string and before it was 9. Now the treble side seems to be lower and in fact the sound of e b g is not beautiful( I had also a little G buzz solved with loosing truss-rod and getting higher saddle). IM scared; till now my classic vibe 50 squier Stratocaster sounds and plays better with more sparkle in 2 e 4 positions , and here in Italy costs 400 euro instead of American standard is 1600 euro. The American strat has the fat hot 50 pickup and they are very hot and powerful and the fender specs of pick up height should be change for them( not 2.4 mm bass and 2mm treble..but it needs to definitely lower the height ).this being said , according to you , should I work on the 2 lateral pivot screws to put the bridge parallel and should I raise a bit the bridge screw or should I work with springs opening the back of the guitar? Thanks
The only issue I have with the block saddles, and eventually I may run a test to see, is that I wonder if the strings resting on the steel saddles vibrates longer, and thus sustains longer. The graph tech saddles have that TMP insert (I think that's what it's called), and I would think that material would deaden the string faster than one vibrating on top of steel. The major issue I have with the bent saddle is that after a month or so of heavy playing, I get a tiny little groove in the center of the saddle that causes my string to break. The remedy is to lightly sand the area every few months and then run a dremel polishing wheel there (John Cruz's suggestion that works perfectly). ...Cheers!
I've finally settled on the blocks. Haven't had a single issue for months. I do get the argument on string contact but if that does make a difference it's not obvious enough to notice or care about.
It really doesn't matter..if we all needed that much sustain, everyone would use super sustaining pickups, or one of those pedals, and we'd never bend or use vibrato or palm mute. Sustain, is all marketing bs. Having brass saddles or locking tuners or a bone nut doesn't make things sustain that much more or add that much more to your tone to a degree that actually matters
Fender solved a lot of problems in the 80s but that was before the idiotic obession with vintage specs began. I have an 89 Strat with two pole vibrato and steel block saddles. It's way better than the vintage style. The only minor issue is that the adjustment screws are to the side of the saddles. They are better centred. Another thing that they did in the 80s was bring in those Lace Sensor pickups which are actually really good but I guess the lack of vintage spec look makes them no good. Truss rod adjuster at heel end but with no access. Obsession with nitro paint which badly degrades with age. Three saddle Teles that you can't accurately intonate. Silly relicing that never looks realistic. The nonsense is endless.
Totally agree bent steel are just horrible. I needed to change a bridge and I'd never tried bent steel saddles (always had block ones for over 40 years) and was persuaded by the "improved sound" argument. I'm used to doing intonation adjustments on tensioned strings and have never had an issue with this but you can't do it on bent saddles. The area of the thread that the screw is engaging with is too small and I would just damage the thread if I tried. Detuning the strings to make adjustments is time consuming. I'm changing back to block saddles.
Best solution: Highwood improved vintage saddles. Note that there are three different widths used (10,5mm, 10,8mm and 11,2mm). so measure your saddles before ordering.
Yeah heard good things about those.
@@TheBloggingMusicianthey’re great
thanks for doing this... really like the rambling way you get your thoughts out there.. discovered some things and was pleasantly entertained in the process.. nice..
Thanks Kent. I think! 😁
The lack of grooves in those bent steel saddles is no good because the strings will create a groove eventually except they will likely create several grooves as they move around so the string will move from one groove to another.
Thank you. I will consider getting block saddles for my pro ll
Hold that phone. I've since switched back to bent steel. If you're decking the trem and you don't have enough height adjustment blocks could be the only way, but for floating I think not having the grooves and the extra surface area is better for tuning stability.
@@TheBloggingMusician thanks man...il keep my bent steel saddles
I agree! I have a MIM with bent saddles and a Pacifica with block Wilkinson saddles. I far prefer the block saddles and may replace my bent saddles for fear of gnashing my hand.
Yep. Blocks are staying! Thanks for watching
Don't know if this would make a difference, but the Fender Ultra blocks have offset (not in the middle) adjusting screw holes at the bottom.
Yeah the offset Intonation screws means that they don't get in the way of the string, although I don't have this issue anyway.
what about the faux bent steel that are actually solid? like on my 90s crafted in china Squier strat?
theyre not a block. theyre shaped like bent steel. but theyre solid. are they better or worse than bent steel?
Better. I have one of those Squiers. Superior build.
@@TheBloggingMusician okay thanks. I have a 90s crafted in china with the aforementioned that is my main strat. I also have a Korean that I'm parting out, and the bridge has bent steel. I think eventually im just gonna have to buy better saddles. the Chinese saddles are too long and the low E is hard to intonate. and they're UGLY af.
Newbie doubt, can you replace Block Saddles with Bent Steel ones without changing the whole bridge piece?? Thanks!
Yes. The saddles are separate and screwed into the bridge individually.
@@TheBloggingMusician Thanks man, I'm starting in the partcaster world and you have great content
@@lordcajander Thanks a lot more to come soon. 😀
My bridge and block don’t fit when replacing so I DID replace the whole assembly. Most Fender block saddles have a screw on one side, not in the center.
I don't know, I have both but I love the block steel better. Bent steel is not right because the string support is limited (no groove to make the string stable). They should be replaced immediately. Block Saddles are better and Roller saddles are the best.
I prefere block saddles for all the reasons you mention against bent ones.
Thanks for watching.
Hello ! Thank you for this instructive video about the saddles on a Strat. I do agree with you on the fact that block saddles are far better for the intonation of the guitar than the the bent ones. It provides hence more sustain and are easier to set. See you next video...
Thanks for watching Antoine! Next video is already published ua-cam.com/video/TMyBCoAyqXg/v-deo.html .... and it's a full review of the Fender Player Strat (same guitar).
Where did you get the block saddles for your player series? What brand? Part number?
Northwesr guitars. Perfect fit. northwestguitars.co.uk/products/stratocaster-compatible-10-8mm-bridge-saddles-pack-of-6?currency=GBP&variant=45028485366034&Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwzo2mBhAUEiwAf7wjkhS-WMeewIWRWCUo2jR_tCg-I4R6GiqLEZfQdz6r3jra5QDBqlYfLRoCTpwQAvD_BwE
I put block saddles on all my Strats. Not a fan of the bent steel. BTW, you get block saddles on the Fender Player Plus Strat.
Yeah must admit I think if I was to spend almost £1000 on a strat the performer could be the better option. I've also heard bad things about the noiseless pickups on the plus.
I got three strats, one with teflon block, one steel block the third one with bent steel. All of them equipped with the same PUs. The Teflon never breaks a string, no matter how franticly I push and pull the trem. Also the tuning remains relativeley stable. Steelblock is a bit more critical, especially the high e tends to break. Bent steel is the worst: Just one trem dive and the g string is a semistep sharp. I got stringbreaks all the time, it is a pain in the ass.
Soundwise the differences are marginal when you play distorted. With clean sound the bent steel has a little more attack and "twang" yet less sustain than the blocks. Not really better, just different, a little closer to vintage sounds like Dick Dale, early Dire Straits, SRV (when you want that, go with the bent steel and suffer the same disadvantages those git Gods had to go through). Steel block has tons of sustain but it lacks that chunky attack noise. Teflon sucks both attack and treble. Not really bad, just different. Cool for 80s rock and fusion sounds.
So can you use block saddles on the 6-pin to replace the bent steel ones?
Absolutely. One of the best and cheapest Strat upgrades.
Graphtech ones are awesome
I think there are guitar players that just like to stick to what's became classic for no real reason. I liked the steel blocks tone way better than the bent steel in every single comparison I could find. I also love the look, so I just ordered a set for my strat to try them.
Yeah but the bent steel have more mojo and swirl 🤣
From where? And what brand?
I prefer the look of the bent steel saddles
After a while with blocks I agree. Gone back to bent steel. Look better and in hindsight they are smaller with less contact points. The lack of groove means the strings rest naturally too.
I have the exact same problem, with another strat that isn't Fender. Couldn't get intonation right on big E String, the screws where too short to get action right. maybe it's neck relief....how well
Glad it wasn't just me! 😂
do you like the brass block saddles?
Never tried them. I've heard they're bright so maybe not a good fit for a Strat?
Keep up the good work, subscribed!
Thanks a lot!
Hello, my new American standard Stratocaster 2015 with two pivot screws bridge seems to have the bridge no parallel to the body..the shop put 10 high E gauge string and before it was 9. Now the treble side seems to be lower and in fact the sound of e b g is not beautiful( I had also a little G buzz solved with loosing truss-rod and getting higher saddle). IM scared; till now my classic vibe 50 squier Stratocaster sounds and plays better with more sparkle in 2 e 4 positions , and here in Italy costs 400 euro instead of American standard is 1600 euro. The American strat has the fat hot 50 pickup and they are very hot and powerful and the fender specs of pick up height should be change for them( not 2.4 mm bass and 2mm treble..but it needs to definitely lower the height ).this being said , according to you , should I work on the 2 lateral pivot screws to put the bridge parallel and should I raise a bit the bridge screw or should I work with springs opening the back of the guitar? Thanks
Fret buzz could be caused be a number of factors. Eliminate each in turn. Intonation, nut, action, frets, saddles.
Highwood vintage improved saddles are he bomb
Yeah very nice
😮
The only issue I have with the block saddles, and eventually I may run a test to see, is that I wonder if the strings resting on the steel saddles vibrates longer, and thus sustains longer. The graph tech saddles have that TMP insert (I think that's what it's called), and I would think that material would deaden the string faster than one vibrating on top of steel.
The major issue I have with the bent saddle is that after a month or so of heavy playing, I get a tiny little groove in the center of the saddle that causes my string to break. The remedy is to lightly sand the area every few months and then run a dremel polishing wheel there (John Cruz's suggestion that works perfectly). ...Cheers!
I've finally settled on the blocks. Haven't had a single issue for months. I do get the argument on string contact but if that does make a difference it's not obvious enough to notice or care about.
It really doesn't matter..if we all needed that much sustain, everyone would use super sustaining pickups, or one of those pedals, and we'd never bend or use vibrato or palm mute. Sustain, is all marketing bs. Having brass saddles or locking tuners or a bone nut doesn't make things sustain that much more or add that much more to your tone to a degree that actually matters
Fender solved a lot of problems in the 80s but that was before the idiotic obession with vintage specs began. I have an 89 Strat with two pole vibrato and steel block saddles. It's way better than the vintage style. The only minor issue is that the adjustment screws are to the side of the saddles. They are better centred. Another thing that they did in the 80s was bring in those Lace Sensor pickups which are actually really good but I guess the lack of vintage spec look makes them no good.
Truss rod adjuster at heel end but with no access. Obsession with nitro paint which badly degrades with age. Three saddle Teles that you can't accurately intonate. Silly relicing that never looks realistic. The nonsense is endless.
I like twang
I play punk
I took those blocks
Off my junk
🤪
😆