Thanks for all of your videos on the 6cylinder ! I have a Mustang and doing most of the same things you did - just finished the sniper and have the distributor to do next.
I’m just waiting on my sniper 1100 to finish the install! Hoping to get mine running better than when it was carbureted. I’m doing a 65 ranchero with the 200 i6. Thanks for the video! Made it look simple.
Keep the install clean, take your time, and you’ll be fine and yes, it will run fantastic. Also, I found I had to richen up the WOT AFR quite a bit. It was really lean with 10% ethanol fuel. I went to 12.3 from the base setting 12.8. Make a hell of a difference.
@@mechtrician1 Yeah that’s a good idea. Don’t want it too lean! I’m going to be running a hyperspark distributor, cd ignition box, and a Holley coil too. I’m in the process of rewiring with the American auto wire kit too. My ranchero is getting a complete makeover 🤣 your mustang looks awesome though! I wish my oem wires were in good shape!
Nice video, thanks. I'm about to tackle this on a '69 F-100 with the 240. I think the reason that they want the gauge to use the frame ground might be that the fuel pump return wire will have a small offset due to the wire resistance and the pump's 10amp current draw?
You probably have already figured this out, but the outlet on the exhaust manifold for the heat riser tube just passes through, I cleaned mine with compressed air before I installed the tube. It is like a tunnel cast into the manifold.
I actually didn’t notice it going through but good to know. It seemed to have something inside of it. Like a metal mesh or something. I plugged it anyway because I wasn’t sure.
Great video. That’s very helpful. I am trying to find an EFI system for my Fiat 850 which is about 51ci do you think this would work or is it just way too big. Do you have any ideas for what would work with this small 4 cylinder engine?
Hey great video! I am also doing an autolite 1100 replacement for my 68 mustang, and was wondering if between the throttle body and intake was there a specific spacer you used to rotate it? The mounting for the intake is at an angle and many of the installs I see have it perpendicular
Thanks man. No, it’s all stock. Stock spacer. I literally unbolted the carb and bolted the sniper on. Used the original coolant spacer, never even took it off the manifold.
Very nice! Thank you so much for this video and all your additional comments. Installed the kit last night in a 68 Mustang and everything is awesome so far. Something I haven't been able to find the answer on, is there a way to tap back into the new CTS so the old temp gauge in the dash still works?
Glad you’re enjoying the system! Unfortunately there isn’t a way to combine them, they are totally different electrically. But I would just install the stock gauge sender in the thermostat housing. That’s what I did.
I'm saving up to install this on my 66 mustang coupe i'm taking your advice and going to keep with the stock 5/16 hard lines. I got a question when your install the micron filter and fuel gauge is that rubber fuel hose and filter 3/8 or 5/16?
I used 3/8 for all of it. The filter, gauge tap, and fittings were all 3/8, but you can get that stuff in 5/16, and the vapor guard hose should be available in 5/16 as well. I have not checked though.
Great video, its a real help! I've been waiting on the 1100 units coming back into stock and they are now finally available again. Do you happen to have the brand / part number for the 10 micron inline filter you used? George
Thanks for the video. I’m sorry I didn’t get a chance to watch the whole video yet, but I was wondering for my 200ci straight 6, 1966 automatic mustang, can I get away with just replacement of the carb with the unit or do I have to upgrade the fuel pump also? My fuel pump is pretty new and I also didn’t want to have to do as much work to it. I will probably have my mechanic do it. Does it have to have a new fuel pump? Should I also need to upgrade the distributor and coil too? Again, thanks for your help!! Gary
@@mechtrician1 thank you. Would I also need a new coil and distributor setup? I just wanted to understand all that’s involved. I probably with have a shop help me with it. It’s just a cruiser once a week, I just didn’t know how much extra demand this puts on the ignition system too. Thanks again friend.
100% agree with you on 5/16 line on a 200ci. Did Holley ever say anything about venting the tank when you switched to their single line in tank pump kit? Maybe the '60's gas cap is good enough.
Yeah, if I had to do it again I would have kept the 5/16” line and stepped up at the Sniper since it’s 3/8”. I knew it needed to be vented but I checked that the cap was already. I didn’t ask them anything additional about it but yes the original cap is vented and in theory it should work fine. Fuel consumption is fuel consumption. I’ve got over 1000 miles on it now. No issues at all. Just refining the tune with the learn data.
Nice video. What was the cost of the EFI system? Have you had a chance to compare before and after fuel mileage? I driveability follow up vid would be nice too. Great job!
Depending on the options you’ll be into it for 1-2k. Just fuel control can be had for about a grand. All out fuel/timing control will be about 1800. I have not compared mileage yet. I’ve been doing a lot of playing with the system and other work so it wouldn’t be fair to check it yet. The drivability is amazing, thanks for the suggestion. I’ll do a drivability video in the future.
Part 2 ????? Waiting for your expertise? Since you are a Engineer, IF you were to have a failure on the road, trip, what part of the system would typically be the problem?? If I did this conversion I probably would be driving the vehicle WAY away from home, and since you can't just walk into a parts store for such can you buy the individual parts? Would you suggest keeping WHICH extra parts with you?
There is an update video and another video where I added the Hyperspark distributor. I usually carry spare sensors with me. Fuel pumps can fail, but it's not exactly something you're going to change on the side of the road if it's an in-tank pump, but the in-tank pumps are pretty reliable.
I think at one point you suggested not to do the ignition side and the fuel side at the same time to minimise trouble shooting. I don't have that option as current distributor is load a matic. I have the 1100 sniper, hyper spark dizzy, and the holley coil/ignition box etc same as yours. Any specific issues to look for when doing all at once?
You know, I am finding with the Holley stuff that it works so well out of the box that that is not holding true anymore. I would still suggest not to do them at the same time if you’re not using a well integrated ignition system like the Hyperspark. The Hyperspark and Sniper will very likely work right out of the box for you with both at the same time.
what are your thoughts 2 years later on the 1100 holley. I've been running a single carb 200 for 49 years in my van and would like more performance without sacrificing reliability, and what roughly is the cost for change over? Thank You
So I ran this setup for about a year flawlessly. I ended up building another 200 with a 2V conversion with a sniper 2300 which is what I am currently running now. 100% happy with both systems. I know a lot of people running the sniper 1100 on 200s and they are all very happy.
Awesome job! We'll probably follow this when installing the Sniper 1100 in our '74 Comet. The only difference is that we have a 250 (which is a taller motor) and we're concerned about hood clearance. We can't find the overall height of the throttle body and lower part together. Even Holley doesn't show it. Can you please help us out with that? Thanks
@@mechtrician1 what would be the maximum fuel line pressure I should have at the unit? I emailed Holley and they said if I put an in-line regulator I can cap the return line like you did but failed to mention the pressure. I was told between 50 to 60psi? 60 being the max?
@@5470Marty It needs to be right around 60 psi. If you use an inline regulator, you need a return line from the regulator. If you go the inline regulator route, I recommend routing the pump pressure through the EFI unit. Remove the internal regulator and put the inline regulator after the unit. I've found doing it any other way the fuel pressure is very inconsistent.
You wouldn’t have a schematic of what your saying? Not quite understanding. I’m assuming with the hallway technician told me it was wrong that? The trucks taking a little longer to get back to me so I might just try to do it on my 54 Belair.
In short, no. You have to regulate the pressure and the fuel has to return to the tank somewhere. Without the in-tank regulated module, you have to have a return line.
Question, I have 65 inline 6 Mustang and things seem very similar. How's the sniper EFI holding up on your car? I'm thinking about installing it in my inline 6 Did you change the stock air filter? If you did to what?
I actually upgraded just a little bit ago and converted to a 2 barrel. I sold the Sniper 1100 unit and upgraded to the 2300 Sniper. The system was excellent though. Worked perfectly. Same experience with the 2300 as well.
@@CasaVerdeGames it’s great. You would need a 2 barrel head conversion though or an adapter. I don’t know of anyone that has ever tried do use a 2 to 1 adapter on a sniper 2300 though.
@@mechtrician1 ok thank you, I might stick with the 1100. What kind of air filter would you recommend? I know I can keep the stock but I might want to try a new one
So with this pump I won't have to run a return line? Do you think I could run the stock mechanical pump as long as I run a return back to the tank? The holley website is very vague about what comes with and what needs to be done with it to keep a clean setup
Yes this pump allows you to use your stock tank with no return line. You cannot use the stock pump or any low pressure pump with fuel injection. This system operates at 60psi.
@@mechtrician1 okay cool! I would most likely need to, but if I didn't want to change my fuel line all I'd have to do is splice and clamp I'm assuming? I could also run my wiring through grommets in the floor pans if I wanted to? This is my first time restoring something that isn't a carbureted atv
So a couple of questions. Do you have to change out your distributor? I already replaced my points with a Petronix. Also does the original air cleaner fit on the injection unit? I have the chrome sport sprint air cleaner.
So, if you have a Load-a-matic distributor that uses the spark control valve, yes you will have to replace the dizzy. Any other dizzy will work though. I will say that upgrading to the HyperSpark option was a real positive. It really runs well, but I ran the EFI only for a month before that with a regular old dual advance and it was fine. The stock air cleaner is a direct fit, no modifications needed. That's the biggest benefit of this system. It literally bolts on like factory.
@@67Stang I am not sure if the 67's had the load-a-matic or not, but it's easy to tell. If the carb has the spark control valve on it and a vacuum line going from the port next to the spark control valve to the dizzy, it's a load-a-matic. No spark control valve with just the vacuum line, it's probably a dual advance. The spark control valve looks kinda like a power-valve for a carb. You can google Autolite 1100 spark control valve if you want to see what it looks like. It screws into the side of the carb by the choke.
Im curious to try this on my 240 motor. But mine has a cart uf not an auto lite. I asked Holley about it and they said it should work... good sales pitch. I don’t see why it would be an issue. Anyone have 2 cents
If the bolt pattern and venturi line up, it will work. I'm not familiar with a 240 though. Ford had the 170, 200, and 250 and this works on all of them. I don't believe it will work on the 300's though.
I used the stock sensor, I just moved it to the thermostat housing and put the EFI sensor in the head. The stock gauge becomes a novelty with the Sniper screen, so accuracy isn't really important.
On this in-line 6, I don’t worry about it because the distributor is on the opposite side of the unit. I was just showing it this way for best practices. You don’t want to use coax though. Solid core wire is more susceptible to noise. Also, never ground a shield on both ends. You always want to drain only one side. Both Holley and Fitech have RFI issues. I had talked to Fitech a few times about using property shielded cabling.
Yeah, a lot of folks actually do that. There is copper braided wire loom out there some folks use. I have found that if I am careful how I route the wiring, I don't have issues. If you have ignition components that are close to the ECU though, it is usually a problem. I think someone actually makes ECU RFI shields for the 4150 units.
@@lukeharper1494 Yea, I noticed that also, the video I saw about it DIDN'T have the 300 listed but the printing has it, wonder IF it would work OK with a adapter?? Glad you brought that up
Short answer, yes. Holley lists trucks with the 300ci 6 clearly in their application drop-down; they don't say not to, and the injector used is good to 175 HP motors. What is hard to find is completed projects for the 300ci 6 with the 1100. A call to Holley would be worth it.
Solder should never ever be used on car electric. The only exception is pins on a circuit board. Buy a proper crimping tool and some open brass crimps. This is how OEM looms are made and it’s done for many good reasons. Solder is just janky and will cause problems,
I just wanted to add, I purchased the earls filter you installed here. And found out in a later video you said it was way too small. So, it is pretty much useless to me. Just letting people know not to buy this filter.
@@mechtrician1 I just wanted to clarify for others. As many are like me and just learning this stuff. As you learned later and needed a larger filter for you 2V. These are great informative videos as I had no clue that a 10 micron filter was necessary. (and I have watched a ton of sniper vids) I'm working with the 4150 4v, and just didn't want others to end up with a filter that is too small.
@@johnnydanger57 it’s all good. In general I like a larger capacity filter. But this one is still quite usable for smaller volume units. If you’re going with a 4 barrel unit, yes I recommend more filter capacity than the little earls one.
Thanks for all of your videos on the 6cylinder ! I have a Mustang and doing most of the same things you did - just finished the sniper and have the distributor to do next.
I’m just waiting on my sniper 1100 to finish the install! Hoping to get mine running better than when it was carbureted. I’m doing a 65 ranchero with the 200 i6. Thanks for the video! Made it look simple.
Keep the install clean, take your time, and you’ll be fine and yes, it will run fantastic.
Also, I found I had to richen up the WOT AFR quite a bit. It was really lean with 10% ethanol fuel. I went to 12.3 from the base setting 12.8. Make a hell of a difference.
@@mechtrician1 Yeah that’s a good idea. Don’t want it too lean! I’m going to be running a hyperspark distributor, cd ignition box, and a Holley coil too. I’m in the process of rewiring with the American auto wire kit too. My ranchero is getting a complete makeover 🤣 your mustang looks awesome though! I wish my oem wires were in good shape!
Someone finally did it!
I love to hear a straight 6 when it just purrs. Thanks!
I can't thank you enough.
Nice video, thanks. I'm about to tackle this on a '69 F-100 with the 240. I think the reason that they want the gauge to use the frame ground might be that the fuel pump return wire will have a small offset due to the wire resistance and the pump's 10amp current draw?
You probably have already figured this out, but the outlet on the exhaust manifold for the heat riser tube just passes through, I cleaned mine with compressed air before I installed the tube. It is like a tunnel cast into the manifold.
I actually didn’t notice it going through but good to know. It seemed to have something inside of it. Like a metal mesh or something. I plugged it anyway because I wasn’t sure.
@@mechtrician1 Yeah the metal mesh acts like a debris filter I found out.
What do you do to block off the choke tube from the exhaust manifold?
@@craigdubay3483 I don't think your question was for me, because I have a carb and I need the choke tube open.
Great video. That’s very helpful. I am trying to find an EFI system for my Fiat 850 which is about 51ci do you think this would work or is it just way too big. Do you have any ideas for what would work with this small 4 cylinder engine?
Set the idle on the hand held once you set the %. Never adjust after that unless you updated something.
carsbof that vintage was around 650 in gear. which makes idle in neutral over 700
What did you to keep the heater core line when you put the gauge temp sensor in the thermostat housing
“Classic Tubes sucks” 🤣🤣 same thing happened to me with the distributor vacuum line
Hey great video! I am also doing an autolite 1100 replacement for my 68 mustang, and was wondering if between the throttle body and intake was there a specific spacer you used to rotate it? The mounting for the intake is at an angle and many of the installs I see have it perpendicular
Thanks man. No, it’s all stock. Stock spacer. I literally unbolted the carb and bolted the sniper on. Used the original coolant spacer, never even took it off the manifold.
Very nice! Thank you so much for this video and all your additional comments. Installed the kit last night in a 68 Mustang and everything is awesome so far. Something I haven't been able to find the answer on, is there a way to tap back into the new CTS so the old temp gauge in the dash still works?
Glad you’re enjoying the system! Unfortunately there isn’t a way to combine them, they are totally different electrically. But I would just install the stock gauge sender in the thermostat housing. That’s what I did.
@@mechtrician1 ahh, yes brilliant. Thanks!
Great video!
it runs nice and quiet
You do very clean work👍
I'm saving up to install this on my 66 mustang coupe i'm taking your advice and going to keep with the stock 5/16 hard lines. I got a question when your install the micron filter and fuel gauge is that rubber fuel hose and filter 3/8 or 5/16?
I used 3/8 for all of it. The filter, gauge tap, and fittings were all 3/8, but you can get that stuff in 5/16, and the vapor guard hose should be available in 5/16 as well. I have not checked though.
@@mechtrician1 yeah i found it all in 5/16 so I will definitely go with that thanks for this video
@@autoraysgarage8938 what website do you find all the 5/16 items?
Great video, its a real help! I've been waiting on the 1100 units coming back into stock and they are now finally available again. Do you happen to have the brand / part number for the 10 micron inline filter you used? George
The filter is an Earls 3/8” Vapor Guard Filter 731166ERL
@@mechtrician1 Thanks! Much appreciated!
Thanks for the video. I’m sorry I didn’t get a chance to watch the whole video yet, but I was wondering for my 200ci straight 6, 1966 automatic mustang, can I get away with just replacement of the carb with the unit or do I have to upgrade the fuel pump also? My fuel pump is pretty new and I also didn’t want to have to do as much work to it. I will probably have my mechanic do it. Does it have to have a new fuel pump? Should I also need to upgrade the distributor and coil too? Again, thanks for your help!!
Gary
You have to replace the fuel pump and the whole fuel system. The carb low-pressure pump is not compatible with EFI.
@@mechtrician1 thank you. Would I also need a new coil and distributor setup? I just wanted to understand all that’s involved. I probably with have a shop help me with it. It’s just a cruiser once a week, I just didn’t know how much extra demand this puts on the ignition system too. Thanks again friend.
It would be awesome if Holley made triple twin throttle bodies for my 221 CID alloy head Xflow ford 6
100% agree with you on 5/16 line on a 200ci. Did Holley ever say anything about venting the tank when you switched to their single line in tank pump kit? Maybe the '60's gas cap is good enough.
Yeah, if I had to do it again I would have kept the 5/16” line and stepped up at the Sniper since it’s 3/8”.
I knew it needed to be vented but I checked that the cap was already. I didn’t ask them anything additional about it but yes the original cap is vented and in theory it should work fine. Fuel consumption is fuel consumption. I’ve got over 1000 miles on it now. No issues at all. Just refining the tune with the learn data.
Great advice, thanks
Nice video. What was the cost of the EFI system? Have you had a chance to compare before and after fuel mileage? I driveability follow up vid would be nice too. Great job!
Depending on the options you’ll be into it for 1-2k. Just fuel control can be had for about a grand. All out fuel/timing control will be about 1800.
I have not compared mileage yet. I’ve been doing a lot of playing with the system and other work so it wouldn’t be fair to check it yet. The drivability is amazing, thanks for the suggestion. I’ll do a drivability video in the future.
I want to put one of these on my geo metro 3cyl
Part 2 ????? Waiting for your expertise? Since you are a Engineer, IF you were to have a failure on the road, trip, what part of the system would typically be the problem?? If I did this conversion I probably would be driving the vehicle WAY away from home, and since you can't just walk into a parts store for such can you buy the individual parts? Would you suggest keeping WHICH extra parts with you?
There is an update video and another video where I added the Hyperspark distributor. I usually carry spare sensors with me. Fuel pumps can fail, but it's not exactly something you're going to change on the side of the road if it's an in-tank pump, but the in-tank pumps are pretty reliable.
Man, listen to that thing purr, wish you was in Florida, I'd pay you to install mine
thas nice ! i want one now among the list of things hehehe
Well detailed. What is the height of the unit from base to filter mount?
Actually have a video for that. ua-cam.com/video/y1UteczqBwc/v-deo.html
I think at one point you suggested not to do the ignition side and the fuel side at the same time to minimise trouble shooting. I don't have that option as current distributor is load a matic. I have the 1100 sniper, hyper spark dizzy, and the holley coil/ignition box etc same as yours. Any specific issues to look for when doing all at once?
You know, I am finding with the Holley stuff that it works so well out of the box that that is not holding true anymore. I would still suggest not to do them at the same time if you’re not using a well integrated ignition system like the Hyperspark. The Hyperspark and Sniper will very likely work right out of the box for you with both at the same time.
The fuel pump discussion confused me lol. So the pump doesn’t have a return line and it’s not needed as it was designed?
If using the Holley 12-305 internally regulated pump module, no return is needed.
@@mechtrician1 great! The video is super helpful, I will be using it a lot here in a month or so when I convert my wife’s car. Thanks for making it!
what are your thoughts 2 years later on the 1100 holley. I've been running a single carb 200 for 49 years in my van and would like more performance without sacrificing reliability, and what roughly is the cost for change over? Thank You
So I ran this setup for about a year flawlessly. I ended up building another 200 with a 2V conversion with a sniper 2300 which is what I am currently running now. 100% happy with both systems. I know a lot of people running the sniper 1100 on 200s and they are all very happy.
Awesome job! We'll probably follow this when installing the Sniper 1100 in our '74 Comet.
The only difference is that we have a 250 (which is a taller motor) and we're concerned about hood clearance.
We can't find the overall height of the throttle body and lower part together. Even Holley doesn't show it.
Can you please help us out with that? Thanks
Yes that is a problem with the 250s. Yes, I’ll get you a measurement tomorrow and post it here.
@@mechtrician1 awesome... thanks!
@@FrankieBag0donuts I posted measuring the overall dimension in a quick video. It’s 4” from base to the filter rim.
@@mechtrician1 thanks.... this is a father and son project and we really appreciate it!
@@FrankieBag0donuts that’s how I started out at 14 years old! Just me and my dad and a project car.
I see you capped the back side of the regulator. You didn’t run a return line? I want to do the same set up. If so please let me know. Thanks!
The Holley 12-305 fuel pump module is internally regulated in the tank, so a return line is not used in this setup.
@@mechtrician1 if I’m using an inline fuel pump can I pump an external regulator and cap it the same way?!
@@mechtrician1 what would be the maximum fuel line pressure I should have at the unit? I emailed Holley and they said if I put an in-line regulator I can cap the return line like you did but failed to mention the pressure. I was told between 50 to 60psi? 60 being the max?
@@5470Marty It needs to be right around 60 psi. If you use an inline regulator, you need a return line from the regulator. If you go the inline regulator route, I recommend routing the pump pressure through the EFI unit. Remove the internal regulator and put the inline regulator after the unit. I've found doing it any other way the fuel pressure is very inconsistent.
You wouldn’t have a schematic of what your saying? Not quite understanding. I’m assuming with the hallway technician told me it was wrong that? The trucks taking a little longer to get back to me so I might just try to do it on my 54 Belair.
Really needed this, could a bolt to frame pump NOT in tank work without a return line?
In short, no. You have to regulate the pressure and the fuel has to return to the tank somewhere. Without the in-tank regulated module, you have to have a return line.
Question, I have 65 inline 6 Mustang and things seem very
similar. How's the sniper EFI holding up on your car? I'm
thinking about installing it in my inline 6
Did you change the stock air filter? If you did to what?
I actually upgraded just a little bit ago and converted to a 2 barrel. I sold the Sniper 1100 unit and upgraded to the 2300 Sniper. The system was excellent though. Worked perfectly. Same experience with the 2300 as well.
@@mechtrician1 thank you for responding, how are u liking the 2300 over the 1100. Cause for about a $100 more I’d rather get that if it’s better.
@@CasaVerdeGames it’s great. You would need a 2 barrel head conversion though or an adapter. I don’t know of anyone that has ever tried do use a 2 to 1 adapter on a sniper 2300 though.
@@mechtrician1 ok thank you, I might stick with the 1100. What kind of air filter would you recommend? I know I can keep the stock but I might want to try a new one
@@CasaVerdeGames not sure about the air cleaner. I ran the stock one.
So with this pump I won't have to run a return line? Do you think I could run the stock mechanical pump as long as I run a return back to the tank? The holley website is very vague about what comes with and what needs to be done with it to keep a clean setup
Yes this pump allows you to use your stock tank with no return line. You cannot use the stock pump or any low pressure pump with fuel injection. This system operates at 60psi.
@@mechtrician1 okay cool! I would most likely need to, but if I didn't want to change my fuel line all I'd have to do is splice and clamp I'm assuming? I could also run my wiring through grommets in the floor pans if I wanted to? This is my first time restoring something that isn't a carbureted atv
That pink power wire did you leave it on the coil harness
Yep. Works fine.
So a couple of questions. Do you have to change out your distributor? I already replaced my points with a Petronix. Also does the original air cleaner fit on the injection unit? I have the chrome sport sprint air cleaner.
So, if you have a Load-a-matic distributor that uses the spark control valve, yes you will have to replace the dizzy. Any other dizzy will work though. I will say that upgrading to the HyperSpark option was a real positive. It really runs well, but I ran the EFI only for a month before that with a regular old dual advance and it was fine. The stock air cleaner is a direct fit, no modifications needed. That's the biggest benefit of this system. It literally bolts on like factory.
@@mechtrician1 Thanks so much for the quick response. I have a stock dizzy. It is the original one. Not sure if it is a load a matic or not.
@@67Stang I am not sure if the 67's had the load-a-matic or not, but it's easy to tell. If the carb has the spark control valve on it and a vacuum line going from the port next to the spark control valve to the dizzy, it's a load-a-matic. No spark control valve with just the vacuum line, it's probably a dual advance. The spark control valve looks kinda like a power-valve for a carb. You can google Autolite 1100 spark control valve if you want to see what it looks like. It screws into the side of the carb by the choke.
@@mechtrician1 Just ordered my setup today. Can't wait for it to get here. Thanks for all the info.
@@67Stang no worries. Let me know if you need help.
Im curious to try this on my 240 motor. But mine has a cart uf not an auto lite. I asked Holley about it and they said it should work... good sales pitch. I don’t see why it would be an issue. Anyone have 2 cents
If the bolt pattern and venturi line up, it will work. I'm not familiar with a 240 though. Ford had the 170, 200, and 250 and this works on all of them. I don't believe it will work on the 300's though.
How are you liking this one year later?
For the time I had it, it was great. There are later videos, I converted to 2V and went 2300.
Next I will be going Holley HP MPFI.
How did you make the temperature gauge inside the car work with a different sensor?
I used the stock sensor, I just moved it to the thermostat housing and put the EFI sensor in the head. The stock gauge becomes a novelty with the Sniper screen, so accuracy isn't really important.
man if I was that worried about RF noise on those longer runs I would just use coaxial cable and ground the shield on each end.
On this in-line 6, I don’t worry about it because the distributor is on the opposite side of the unit. I was just showing it this way for best practices.
You don’t want to use coax though. Solid core wire is more susceptible to noise. Also, never ground a shield on both ends. You always want to drain only one side.
Both Holley and Fitech have RFI issues. I had talked to Fitech a few times about using property shielded cabling.
@@mechtrician1 so maybe some kind of conduit as a faraday cage?
Yeah, a lot of folks actually do that. There is copper braided wire loom out there some folks use. I have found that if I am careful how I route the wiring, I don't have issues. If you have ignition components that are close to the ECU though, it is usually a problem. I think someone actually makes ECU RFI shields for the 4150 units.
You think id be able to slap one of these on a 86 f150? Its got the 300 i6 in it
Only works for the 200 engines and below.
Figured id ask cause holleys website says up to the 300 but its a replacement for the autolite carb and the 300 has the yfa carter
@@lukeharper1494 Yea, I noticed that also, the video I saw about it DIDN'T have the 300 listed but the printing has it, wonder IF it would work OK with a adapter?? Glad you brought that up
Short answer, yes. Holley lists trucks with the 300ci 6 clearly in their application drop-down; they don't say not to, and the injector used is good to 175 HP motors. What is hard to find is completed projects for the 300ci 6 with the 1100. A call to Holley would be worth it.
did you have to due a return line????
No. The regulator is in the tank. Just dead heads all the way to the unit.
Where did you get the camshaft sensor?
In this video, I just used the coil trigger for the EFI. Later on I used a Hyperspark distributor.
In the video, it appears that you have a camshaft sensor in the back of the head
Is there anyway I can get in contact with you? I’m doing an install right now on my Mustang and I had a few questions.
@@shawnsilva6165 no that’s a coolant temp sensor.
It appears you put the coolant sensor in the front of the engine in the water pump. I’m talking about the back of the engine.
Solder should never ever be used on car electric. The only exception is pins on a circuit board.
Buy a proper crimping tool and some open brass crimps. This is how OEM looms are made and it’s done for many good reasons. Solder is just janky and will cause problems,
I just wanted to add, I purchased the earls filter you installed here. And found out in a later video you said it was way too small. So, it is pretty much useless to me. Just letting people know not to buy this filter.
It’s sufficient for the 1100 unit. Lots of others are running it. I changed it after I went to the 2300 2V.
@@mechtrician1 I just wanted to clarify for others. As many are like me and just learning this stuff. As you learned later and needed a larger filter for you 2V. These are great informative videos as I had no clue that a 10 micron filter was necessary. (and I have watched a ton of sniper vids) I'm working with the 4150 4v, and just didn't want others to end up with a filter that is too small.
@@johnnydanger57 it’s all good. In general I like a larger capacity filter. But this one is still quite usable for smaller volume units.
If you’re going with a 4 barrel unit, yes I recommend more filter capacity than the little earls one.
You’re so particular… then use a scotch lock (hack move) get that outta there!