Following couple of pros on youtube and being a pro my self, I have to say that your videos are always different, interesting and most importantly helpful. In my book thats gold. Thanks for sharing your experience Scott. By the way, the other day used 60/40 mix on a repair and worked like a charm. 👊
I got 20 years experience but honestly I feel I can’t compete with your I see you got all the knowledge it needs to be a professional finish drywall guy by the way I’m new on your channel 👋
I have a video on there that I did for my teaching position called my introduction to Drywall. I talk about different steps and knives in that. Let me know if that’s suffice or I can maybe do something else thanks and merry Christmas!
12/4/23..2day was how 2 prep a new 12" mud blade..great info, thx. U asked what do 'we' want 2 c next...how about skim over (old, unwanted) wall paper... because steam stripping after that perforating tool leaves sheet rock too wet. Then trying to get millions of residual paper pieces off using 6 or 8" (or bigger) blades just gouges into the wet skin of shtrk. So i just abandoned the perforate & steam process & razor cut the (few or many) raised 'corn flakes' of worn paper & begin applying the mud with my 10" blade. Its an old SherWlms SS blade with a curved handle, very comfortable to handle. This process leaves a +/- smoothe surface with few raised tool markes. When mud is dry, light (dry or moist) sand/wipe & ready for either paint (on smoothe 'new' surface) or take time to texture with whatever type customer wants. Usually can talk them into paint over smoothe but some want modest texture like with a 9" paint roller & thin mud...but its a little messy...i dont have that monster high volume air compressor & the white bucket attached to t top of the spray nozzle..& that is messy as well. So, have you done any 'skim-over' wall paper jobs? Maybe do a video for us??🤔 Much enjoy your videos because they/you are doing practical stuff for we DIY'ers. Stay safe & carry on!💪🍺😊
In my opinion best way to do wallpaper is to not wet it peel any loose paper that comes off easily and then do an oil based prime over the entire surface prior to any mud. Once it dries if there’s any blisters, it will show you can cut them out with the razor bladetight skim texture paint or whatever
Share this video with anyone you know not a lot of people don’t know what I teach on this video as far as getting a Headstart on breaking in a knife always the hardest part of a new knife is breaking it in. Anyone can do a lot more finishing with a broken knife than a brand-new one I watch that guy Paul Peck all the time he never takes the sticker off his knife really…
@@scottssheetrockservices Yes I agree, and for the record Paul Peck is a cobbler.....🤣, He would get mocked to death around some of the finishers that I know...
As soon as I do something like that I’ll throw it online… But we will scrape all the walls full coat pan and 12, first coat with hot mud then rake out like I do with plaster and put a tight skim on it then allow them to dry and sand and touch up if need be
1) I thought the convex side of the knife should be used for applying drywall compound. 2) I thought the blade of the knife was supposed to be squared off, not sharp. Am I incorrect about both of these things?
If your blades are bent up away from the wall you’ll leave an edge and not keep the mud inside the blade. After you use a Drywall knife Multiple times it becomes very sharp naturally on the wall with usage. You can speed up the process with sandpaper because you have smoother pass when you’re floating or skimming hope this helps
Yeah taping knives are suppossed to have a 90 degree angle to do inside corners. i like to sand my knives all the way to 400 grit or higher, till it's almost polished. Then i put a little oil on it. They become so smooth the mud just glides off the knives
So if you look at any knife when you first buy it it’s not completely straight it has a bow one way or the other so whichever side of the inside of the knife makes a slight bow that’s the side you should use naturally. As you are trying to leave mud in the middle of your joints hope this helps
If you hold a knife sideways and look along the blade maybe with one eye closed you can see the middle of the knife will bow just slightly one way or the other for application of mud and floating and skimming you would want to use the opposite side of the bow so if the bow goes a little to the right then use the left side of your knife for the side of application. I’ll put a mark on my knife maybe an initial or something and/or just look at it prior to application when I’m working if you use the other side it will tend to leave edges as opposed to enclosing your seam or butt or bead or whatever your using I do a very slight sanding on the corner just to get that point off of it otherwise it’ll leave lines on the exterior of your application hope this helps
This is bassackerds information..You don't tape with a ten, twelve or 14" .No need to do anything to those knives.Get busy. I used the curved side down.Always have always will and everyone I know does the same. This guy doesn't know. Always buy stainless steel knives.
Stainless steel last longer the blue steel are good, but you have to keep WD-40 on them when you’re not using them so they don’t rust usually the blue steel is a little more flimsy, which may help with finishing. I have a stainless steel six and a stainless steel eight. It’s hard to find a good stainless steel 12.
Putty knife is maybe a small 1 inch or 2 inch knife that you would use to do spackling. As a drywall professional, we use different length metal blades in inches: 6,8,10,12 and 14. Some people use bigger for full skimming
Don’t want to put a grinder on it you’ll tear it up. Just start the sharpening process with sandpaper. Knock your corners down a little bit and then let the wall do the sharpening!
Following couple of pros on youtube and being a pro my self, I have to say that your videos are always different, interesting and most importantly helpful. In my book thats gold. Thanks for sharing your experience Scott. By the way, the other day used 60/40 mix on a repair and worked like a charm. 👊
I got 20 years experience but honestly I feel I can’t compete with your I see you got all the knowledge it needs to be a professional finish drywall guy by the way I’m new on your channel 👋
Thank you for the lesson
Can you please do more videos of knockdown texture. Thanks.
Thank you! Please do a video on which trowels you use.
I have a video on there that I did for my teaching position called my introduction to Drywall. I talk about different steps and knives in that. Let me know if that’s suffice or I can maybe do something else thanks and merry Christmas!
Thank you. You do great videos. Merry Christmas!@@scottssheetrockservices
Thanks for your videos. Could you do a video about patching a joint crack and small holes from removing an alarm control panel? Thanks
12/4/23..2day was how 2 prep a new 12" mud blade..great info, thx.
U asked what do 'we' want 2 c next...how about skim over (old, unwanted) wall paper... because steam stripping after that perforating tool leaves sheet rock too wet. Then trying to get millions of residual paper pieces off using 6 or 8" (or bigger) blades just gouges into the wet skin of shtrk. So i just abandoned the perforate & steam process & razor cut the (few or many) raised 'corn flakes' of worn paper & begin applying the mud with my 10" blade. Its an old SherWlms SS blade with a curved handle, very comfortable to handle. This process leaves a +/- smoothe surface with few raised tool markes. When mud is dry, light (dry or moist) sand/wipe & ready for either paint (on smoothe 'new' surface) or take time to texture with whatever type customer wants. Usually can talk them into paint over smoothe but some want modest texture like with a 9" paint roller & thin mud...but its a little messy...i dont have that monster high volume air compressor & the white bucket attached to t top of the spray nozzle..& that is messy as well.
So, have you done any 'skim-over' wall paper jobs? Maybe do a video for us??🤔 Much enjoy your videos because they/you are doing practical stuff for we DIY'ers. Stay safe & carry on!💪🍺😊
In my opinion best way to do wallpaper is to not wet it peel any loose paper that comes off easily and then do an oil based prime over the entire surface prior to any mud. Once it dries if there’s any blisters, it will show you can cut them out with the razor bladetight skim texture paint or whatever
Good to know I figured a polish knife would make the mud smooth out " just mud and wall" almost like the knife don't exist
Great tip! Ames I hope you're listening on those stainless 8" & 12"s
Thanks!!! Great video!
I'm going to keep liking and following your videos, only because it's Southern Style.....🤣👍
Share this video with anyone you know not a lot of people don’t know what I teach on this video as far as getting a Headstart on breaking in a knife always the hardest part of a new knife is breaking it in. Anyone can do a lot more finishing with a broken knife than a brand-new one I watch that guy Paul Peck all the time he never takes the sticker off his knife really…
@@scottssheetrockservices Yes I agree, and for the record Paul Peck is a cobbler.....🤣, He would get mocked to death around some of the finishers that I know...
@@johncaudle6703 would have been more than mocked on the crew I started on in ‘93…
Sounds good brother! Glad I’m able to help just trying to keep it real and as detailed as I can to help as many people as possible!
Can you do a video on skim coating a textured wall to be smooth???? Or … some advice? Ty
As soon as I do something like that I’ll throw it online… But we will scrape all the walls full coat pan and 12, first coat with hot mud then rake out like I do with plaster and put a tight skim on it then allow them to dry and sand and touch up if need be
1) I thought the convex side of the knife should be used for applying drywall compound.
2) I thought the blade of the knife was supposed to be squared off, not sharp.
Am I incorrect about both of these things?
If your blades are bent up away from the wall you’ll leave an edge and not keep the mud inside the blade. After you use a Drywall knife Multiple times it becomes very sharp naturally on the wall with usage. You can speed up the process with sandpaper because you have smoother pass when you’re floating or skimming hope this helps
Yeah taping knives are suppossed to have a 90 degree angle to do inside corners. i like to sand my knives all the way to 400 grit or higher, till it's almost polished. Then i put a little oil on it. They become so smooth the mud just glides off the knives
Can you explain more about the bow the knifes make thanks
So if you look at any knife when you first buy it it’s not completely straight it has a bow one way or the other so whichever side of the inside of the knife makes a slight bow that’s the side you should use naturally. As you are trying to leave mud in the middle of your joints hope this helps
If you hold a knife sideways and look along the blade maybe with one eye closed you can see the middle of the knife will bow just slightly one way or the other for application of mud and floating and skimming you would want to use the opposite side of the bow so if the bow goes a little to the right then use the left side of your knife for the side of application. I’ll put a mark on my knife maybe an initial or something and/or just look at it prior to application when I’m working if you use the other side it will tend to leave edges as opposed to enclosing your seam or butt or bead or whatever your using I do a very slight sanding on the corner just to get that point off of it otherwise it’ll leave lines on the exterior of your application hope this helps
This is bassackerds information..You don't tape with a ten, twelve or 14" .No need to do anything to those knives.Get busy. I used the curved side down.Always have always will and everyone I know does the same. This guy doesn't know. Always buy stainless steel knives.
The 6" I agree with.
Do u recommend regular stainless steel knives instead of the new blue steel ones?
Stainless steel last longer the blue steel are good, but you have to keep WD-40 on them when you’re not using them so they don’t rust usually the blue steel is a little more flimsy, which may help with finishing. I have a stainless steel six and a stainless steel eight. It’s hard to find a good stainless steel 12.
what is the difference between a putty knife and one you use for drywall ?
Putty knife is maybe a small 1 inch or 2 inch knife that you would use to do spackling. As a drywall professional, we use different length metal blades in inches: 6,8,10,12 and 14. Some people use bigger for full skimming
Do you wd40 your knife every time you clean it?
Yes, at the end of the day I put just a little bit of edge-40 on it so next morning it’s ready to go
The wd 40 doesn’t contaminate your mud the next time you use it?
No, you do a light coat what will contaminate your mud worse than that on the next go round is rust. Hope this helps…
@@scottssheetrockservices definitely, thanks much! I’m gonna give it a try. Sub’d👍🏻
👍
How to start in a new job without look a begginer at first day.
Two words
Flap disc
Don’t want to put a grinder on it you’ll tear it up. Just start the sharpening process with sandpaper. Knock your corners down a little bit and then let the wall do the sharpening!