Winter is when we race, in Phoenix! I'll be installing a similar rear suspension in my '66 Chevelle in a few weeks! definitely looking forward to this video!
@@codysmithmotorsports736 why my new shop has A/C and heat. A/C feels good instantly, but it took me a long time to warm up when it was below zero, sometimes for weeks( way before global warming, lol!).
@@rixtrix11 when they're level the roll center makes a big swing during compression that just encourages the car to keep rolling. Getting the roll center up higher and a lower arm that had angle in it was a big difference in steering response and less roll on the 85
@@codysmithmotorsports736 Great info! I haven't calculated this for my S10 that's lowered almost 5" in front and 1/2" longer upper and lower balljoints and 8" Speedway Motors upper arms.. Camber and caster gain are very good, but there is a lot of roll, even with a 30mm ARB. The RC is probably below ground level as both arms go down toward the center, on a frame that's 4" narrower than your Cutlass. I'll definitely do some modeling on my Chevelle. Thanks for the info!
@rixtrix11 sounds very similar to how my setup was before going to the AFX drop spindle and raising the mount of the frane of the 85. The roll center may not be underground but its a long way away from the CG which is what makes it roll.
@codysmithmotorsports736 Google or Amazon. Think of it like wd40 only better for this use. It's what all of the raw steel body and patina guys use. I spray it on all my steel in the garage and nothing rusts. No slime.
Pretty cool
Winter is when we race, in Phoenix! I'll be installing a similar rear suspension in my '66 Chevelle in a few weeks! definitely looking forward to this video!
@@rixtrix11 yeah I for one would not want to be racing in Arizona in the dead of summer...heat and me don't get along
I left Nebraska decades ago to avoid cold and snow, lol.
@rixtrix11 it barely snowed last year here in MN. But I'll take 45 degrees over 95+ pretty much every time
@@codysmithmotorsports736 why my new shop has A/C and heat. A/C feels good instantly, but it took me a long time to warm up when it was below zero, sometimes for weeks( way before global warming, lol!).
That camera guy sounds dreamy. Lol
@@pantsinajar you would know
Are you planning on lower arms being roughly parallel to the ground?
@@rixtrix11 no .. shooting for 2" higher on the frame
@@rixtrix11 when they're level the roll center makes a big swing during compression that just encourages the car to keep rolling. Getting the roll center up higher and a lower arm that had angle in it was a big difference in steering response and less roll on the 85
@@codysmithmotorsports736 Great info! I haven't calculated this for my S10 that's lowered almost 5" in front and 1/2" longer upper and lower balljoints and 8" Speedway Motors upper arms.. Camber and caster gain are very good, but there is a lot of roll, even with a 30mm ARB. The RC is probably below ground level as both arms go down toward the center, on a frame that's 4" narrower than your Cutlass. I'll definitely do some modeling on my Chevelle. Thanks for the info!
@rixtrix11 sounds very similar to how my setup was before going to the AFX drop spindle and raising the mount of the frane of the 85. The roll center may not be underground but its a long way away from the CG which is what makes it roll.
Get yourself a spray can of Gibbs to help all that bare steel from rusting without making an oily mess while youre working.
@@mback12000 what's that? Haven't heard of it before
@codysmithmotorsports736 Google or Amazon. Think of it like wd40 only better for this use. It's what all of the raw steel body and patina guys use. I spray it on all my steel in the garage and nothing rusts. No slime.
... and unlike wd40, it won't create a problem when you paint in the future