I’ve been climbing for about 3 years and I’m comfortably climbing, rigging, and doing technical removals with confidence and a lot of that is because of your material. Thanks m8
Me too! 😄 I've been climbing and rigging for years, and a large part of my refinement and use of specific techniques in my day to day work comes from your teachings as well...Thank you so much Dan!
Another quality video Dan, really appreciate all the effort you put into all of them. Couple of things you did in the video, but didn’t discuss is the orientation of the overlap & avoiding crotch wood. Making the cuts on the sides of the lean so the holding wood fights gravity is what I’m talking about here. This is especially important on leaning & lateral limbs to keep them from snapping on their own. Also, the irregular grain of crotch wood can make snapping difficult, if not impossible. You almost talked about it with the splitting wood comment. Once again, THANK YOU!
Yeah, I place the cuts depending on gravity and also my body position, how my saw is positioned to make the cut with minimal strain, and what direction I want to snap the piece off (if it matters). Typically that means cutting on the sides of leaning/horizontal branches so gravity won’t make them fall on their own, like you say. But sometimes I want to snap the piece vertically instead of sideways, so I make the step longer/stronger (bigger distance between cuts), then push it down (with gravity) to snap it off. Overall it’s intuitive and simpler to do than explain in words, but I think these are good fine-tuning points to mention for guys learning. I’ve found snap cuts can be slick, or somewhat awkward/tiring depending on little factors like these and what he says in the video. I’ve definitely had my share of yanking back and forth on a piece, getting tired out because I didn’t fully overlap the cuts, that sucks haa
You can always tell when a person is enjoying what they do. It comes off as enjoyed engagement rather then a forced lesson. You truly make this trade look fun. I can tell you love what you do. Good on ya mate. 🍻 from the USA. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you to you and others like you on YT. I only do this as a hobby around my property but it is now my favorite past time and the amount I have learned from you guys is just insane. Thank you!
Brilliant tutorial and demonstration. This skill can really septate you from other climbers. Practice on areas with a clear drop zone. You will then have the confidence to do it while working over objects sheds/ buildings etc. Great work Dan thank you.
Thanks for the comment as always Matt. Yes, this is a technique we use so often, yet I see so many struggle with not overlapping their cuts or making them too far apart. As a climber that is so frustrating, yet so easy to correct.
Nice description. I have just one thing to say. I learned to do the second cut in the wood that stays on the tree (not in the branch that fall down). This eliminates the risk that your saw hang up in the overlapping wood and fall down to the ground or in your lanyard. Thanks Dan for your channel. I learned a lot from you.
Awesome demo, most of the time on branches I actually use slings with my snap cuts, just to make sure it doesn't get away from Me, or I was wrong about the weight or snap out because of a little wind or something 🤙great video definitely helping out lots of folk's ✌️🍻👌
It makes the world of difference working with film professionals like InTree Media , and that is very obvious with this production. Thanks for your comment 👍
I still have yet to meet any fellow arborists who mastered the snap cut like I have. That cut literally is always used on every removal I do. Great video
Only thing I would add is that a lot of people don't realize that a lap cut is directional, like I always see guys make overlapping cuts with the step on the backside so they are trying to push the piece of wood against that wall. 99% of the time I plow through until the bar is about to pinch then make my relief cut underneath that cut since it's easier to push the wood off than try and pull it or physically pick it up as long as you can position yourself correctly.
What is your reason for making your second cut beyond the first? I always do the opposite which prevents the saw getting potentially trapped in the kerf hook created when it snaps. Not as important on trunk wood but on a limb that will free fall it can and has taken my saw with it, for limbs I always match the cuts for a straight fall and behind the undercut for everything else. Fantastic tutorial Dan thank you! 👍💪❤️
Thank you for the thorough explanation on snap cutting! Are there some woods where snap cutting simply doesn’t work; ie, spruce or other woods with interlocking grain? Will be sure to try your techniques next time I am in the trees. Energy management is a valid point to explore in all work that is repetitive. A little bit of energy saved goes along way over the course of a work day. Efficiency is far more sustainable than force.. 👍🏼
Efficiency is so important in such a physical job. Using knowledge and experience and moving slower is should much quicker than being erratic and not ensuring good technique. Snap cut will work on all wood, regardless of species due to grain running up and down (maybe with the exception of a huge burl or similar).
I've been a rock climber for thirty years and am a retired firefighter. I have a good size pine tree in my yard that's infested with pitch moths. The arborist wants $1500 to take it down. I think I'm going to buy a set of cheap spikes and do it myself. Learning a lot of good info watching your videos. Very nicely done.
Get the pros in to do it for you. By the time you buy spurs, harness, ropes, lanyard, pay to remove all the debris, and then have an accident, $1500 won’t seem so bad.... just my opinion as a professional and knowing what is involved. 👍
@@ClimbingArborist I have everything but the spurs and I kind of want to do it just for the experience. I've climbed hard aid routes on el cap and done a first ascent on Denali. I've felled hundreds of trees in my career. I have to think I'm every bit as qualified as most guys were for their first time. The only real advantage to hiring it out is that they would haul the debris away but I do understand your point of view. Thanks for your reply
You might want to tie in to adjacent tree in case tree you're in breaks apart. Just set rope in nearby tree and climb bad one. You can get bag and throw line at Menards for about ten bucks. Invaluable for setting rope.
Torrey I agree with Dan - get an arborist in - I have 30 yrs of alpine, ice etc and can tell you tree climbing is different but cutting in a tree with chainsaws and spurs is completely different. This is born out from watchng friends that are way better alpine/ rock climbers than I'll ever be, struggle with a saw and lanyards and it was just a mess. Believe me it's not the same, nor would it be for us if we went caving. Each rope discipline is different and very, very different if you go and do commercial work. Stay safe man. Only young guys bounce . . . . . my 2 centz
Thank you for all this information. Most of it I know for years. But some things I did right on most of the days and then on other days I didn’t because I wasn’t aware of a system in it. Now I know and will hopefully not forget again 😊
Yer bro great you mentioned first cut lower so you can pull it to you. More than a few fullas ive seen cut im sideways. Or higher then lower. So its harder. Thanx bro.
I love the quality of the explanation/video quality is fantastic. A lot of stuff I don't generally think about. Being more calculated with these cuts could save me some serious energy. This got me thinking about something slightly unrelated when I was looking at your tie in(s). I dabbled in SRT/SRS last year and got too busy but recently decided to grab a rope wrench/chestbox. (I use foot and knee ascender for MRS ascents occasionally so I was like what the heck.) I would like to request a video: SRT for removals and how it differs from MRS. I always tend to find removals to be more high stress, costly and dangerous than say doing a bit of deadwood. Generally we know the pros, cons and differences between MRS/SRS but I think it would be valuable to explore the benefits/problems of each system in a complex removal setting.
Love the snap cut its a good thing to have in ur tool box of knowledge... And u just keep up throwing out that great content I love this stuff... this is so inspiring,entertaining and really informative keep up the great work buddy...stay safe
Really nice video! I've seen arborists work and I think it is fascinating. You're all hooked up in the correct places and doesn't seem to fear the heights and you do really nice cuts. It is really amazing to watch and with this video I've learned some of how you manage to do it so beautifully. I doubt I'll ever climb up a tree to take it down though, I'll call you guys for sure 😋
Thanks for this video it came at a time that I needed to see it.im good on the ground but I love climbing.and there training me at work to climb and work out of a bucket I needed to see this
Awesome bro!! I'm so glad you came across this at the right time. Make sure you subscribe to the channel as we have a bunch more in the pipeline that will probably help too👍
Nice , vertical CHUNKS I don't use your cut which has so many names , because like you said , it's not going anywhere . Good work by you ! I loved seeing hooks on you ! Spurs . Climbers . Cali Hicks say hooks though . Peace
Hey bud, now that you re climbing with current uk arb standards, any tips to climb with the two rope (double anchor) system? Anything you've gotten stuck on or just a different methodology for access? Always nice to see someone use proper methods and equipment.
Thanks for you comment Al. This isn't an everyday system that I climb with, I do use the twin rope systems in specific trees, but this made so much sense for this particular job. I didn't want to tie in to the tree as it was very rotten, and there where two very tall trees close by that gave me two different rope angles into the tree. It is going to be a big learning curve for everyone in the U.K but I think in the end they will be better off, safer and will all improve and become more efficient climbers.
Usually the second cut has to be done lower or in the remaining side, otherwise if something goes wrong the log or the branch is bringing down the chainsaw with him...
Curious, when topping a tree, is there a general rule of thumb you guys use how high you climb and\or how many feet of the top you cut off? Obviously you don't climb too high to where the trunk gets too narrow and bendy; but say if it is a 80 foot pine tree , do you cut about 15' off the top? If you could cut a 30' top out without worrying about damaging whatever, is 30' too much? If 30' is too much, why? Because of the energy release on the trunk when she goes over? Thanks
In the logging or Timber cutting world we call this a rigging cut. Mainly used for safety - called rigging cut because leaving the breaking of the cut to the rigging rats ( hookers ). Used on blow downs or felled timber which can't be bucked safely - same principle but a lot bigger then a limb. Thanks your a great instructor.
Have you ever run into the issue of the branch or log snapping while your saw is still in the kerf and the piece snatches your saw? I’ve had this happen so I’ve changed the order of my cuts so that I make the farthest cut from the trunk first so that if I did guess the distance between cuts wrong and the piece goes, it doesn’t wreck your saw while destroying Mrs. Robinson prized rose bushes.
I just had that happen to me the other day, my second cut was above my frist cut and the piece fell and ripped the saw right out of my hands. Only running the bar🙃
What you’re talking about is the inboard/outboard question. Do whichever on thin branches but it will become relevant doing an “inboard” final cut on wider branches. The reason for that is that it breaks away from the saw and if it’s going to trap the saw it will trap it in the static part attached to the tree. You should be left with a shelf that the saw bar is resting on just below the kerf.
One thing I will say, when doing snap cuts on horizontal limbs... isn't it better to put you top cut closer to the branch collar? There is a chance further away from your bottom cut, the limb will take your saw down with it, being trapped in the kerf. Is there is advantages of doing it one way or another? From my experience the top cut closer to the branch collar eliminates that risk with no disadvantages.
Cutting closer to the branch collar is better for small to medium limbs, cutting further away from the collar is for big heavy limbs. Top cut further towards the branch tips increases the saw snagging risk but reduces the chance of the limb barber chairing. That's why in the UK we are taught to always top cut away from the collar side, both methods have their uses in different situations.
nice video and tutorial. At 4.00 min you show a cut on a hanging branch and your second cut, on the top is on the side where the branch will fall, so left to your undercut. I learned to do it on the other side, away from the fall so you can't get your handsaw or chainsaw pinched and falling with the branch. Was it a mistake or intended?
Doing the second cut ‘in the branch’ as opposed to in the wood that is staying is commonly taught but as you say the saw often gets pulled away cammed in the kerf. I do it as you do usually to avoid this.
When you get to the larger wood, after you do the first cut (through the majority of the wood), I noticed that sometimes you made the second (smaller) cut above the initial cut. Is there a specific benefit to that? I always make my second cut below the initial cut, but I’m curious to hear of any pros and cons of the reverse approach.
Are they prescription glasses and if they are, are they in special "activity" frames for climbing if you know what I mean? Also is there any safe way of learning to spike. I'm thinking an auto belay here like the ones you find in climbing wall centres.
seems easy but each trees bit different. with big limbs be carefull tho can take ya saw if leaning. but yer great cut an if like bros fast n control does take time to get right. cheers
Love the battery saw, use it pretty much on a daily basis. I Did a video on the battery saw and all of its benefits, you should check it out if you are interested in the saw.
6:15 Can you explain how you were tied in Dan? Orange line looks like it's going to another tree, the green with a rope wrench looks like it's up the tree and the other line looks like a multisling or lanyard maybe? Great explanation on snap cuts and why snap cuts fail.
The two ropes are going to two separate trees, mainly because this tree was very rotten, and the two trees gave a really good work position with the two ropes. The Sirius is a lanyard.
@@ClimbingArborist Love the range of years over which you have been making great videos. On this issue with the tie-in, I was wondering about the lanyard; how do you avoid being tied the the dead tree with the lanyard.
I’ve been climbing for about 3 years and I’m comfortably climbing, rigging, and doing technical removals with confidence and a lot of that is because of your material. Thanks m8
Me too! 😄 I've been climbing and rigging for years, and a large part of my refinement and use of specific techniques in my day to day work comes from your teachings as well...Thank you so much Dan!
@cameron Jones thank you for the comment buddy, that is great to hear!!!
@@travisjohnson2171 Thanks , it is awesome to read your comment
Last few moments about frustration and energy conservation are just freaking awesome
This business and career is all about finding ways to save energy and keep frustration at bay. I appreciate your comments as always David
Another quality video Dan, really appreciate all the effort you put into all of them. Couple of things you did in the video, but didn’t discuss is the orientation of the overlap & avoiding crotch wood. Making the cuts on the sides of the lean so the holding wood fights gravity is what I’m talking about here. This is especially important on leaning & lateral limbs to keep them from snapping on their own. Also, the irregular grain of crotch wood can make snapping difficult, if not impossible. You almost talked about it with the splitting wood comment. Once again, THANK YOU!
Yeah, I place the cuts depending on gravity and also my body position, how my saw is positioned to make the cut with minimal strain, and what direction I want to snap the piece off (if it matters). Typically that means cutting on the sides of leaning/horizontal branches so gravity won’t make them fall on their own, like you say. But sometimes I want to snap the piece vertically instead of sideways, so I make the step longer/stronger (bigger distance between cuts), then push it down (with gravity) to snap it off.
Overall it’s intuitive and simpler to do than explain in words, but I think these are good fine-tuning points to mention for guys learning. I’ve found snap cuts can be slick, or somewhat awkward/tiring depending on little factors like these and what he says in the video.
I’ve definitely had my share of yanking back and forth on a piece, getting tired out because I didn’t fully overlap the cuts, that sucks haa
You can always tell when a person is enjoying what they do. It comes off as enjoyed engagement rather then a forced lesson. You truly make this trade look fun. I can tell you love what you do. Good on ya mate.
🍻 from the USA. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you to you and others like you on YT. I only do this as a hobby around my property but it is now my favorite past time and the amount I have learned from you guys is just insane. Thank you!
Thanks - that was an excellent description on how to do the snap cut! Your video quality has come a long way! Great editing and camera work!
Awesome, thank you for your comment! The video filming and production was down to the awesome team at InTree Media
Brilliant tutorial and demonstration. This skill can really septate you from other climbers. Practice on areas with a clear drop zone. You will then have the confidence to do it while working over objects sheds/ buildings etc. Great work Dan thank you.
Thanks for the comment as always Matt. Yes, this is a technique we use so often, yet I see so many struggle with not overlapping their cuts or making them too far apart. As a climber that is so frustrating, yet so easy to correct.
Nice description. I have just one thing to say. I learned to do the second cut in the wood that stays on the tree (not in the branch that fall down). This eliminates the risk that your saw hang up in the overlapping wood and fall down to the ground or in your lanyard.
Thanks Dan for your channel. I learned a lot from you.
Awesome demo, most of the time on branches I actually use slings with my snap cuts, just to make sure it doesn't get away from Me, or I was wrong about the weight or snap out because of a little wind or something 🤙great video definitely helping out lots of folk's ✌️🍻👌
Thanks for your comments dude and kind words👍
10 extra points to InTree for a quality video production.... but also excellent instruction!!
It makes the world of difference working with film professionals like InTree Media , and that is very obvious with this production. Thanks for your comment 👍
Your a great teacher i will definitely pass this video on for the newer guys or a refresher for the crew. Be kind climb high stay safe.
Thank you! Climb safe
I still have yet to meet any fellow arborists who mastered the snap cut like I have. That cut literally is always used on every removal I do. Great video
Only thing I would add is that a lot of people don't realize that a lap cut is directional, like I always see guys make overlapping cuts with the step on the backside so they are trying to push the piece of wood against that wall. 99% of the time I plow through until the bar is about to pinch then make my relief cut underneath that cut since it's easier to push the wood off than try and pull it or physically pick it up as long as you can position yourself correctly.
💯
What is your reason for making your second cut beyond the first? I always do the opposite which prevents the saw getting potentially trapped in the kerf hook created when it snaps. Not as important on trunk wood but on a limb that will free fall it can and has taken my saw with it, for limbs I always match the cuts for a straight fall and behind the undercut for everything else. Fantastic tutorial Dan thank you! 👍💪❤️
Love chunking pine of pretty good size this way. Super easy and makes a quick process.
Another quality demo. Great editing!
This is a great video and you are a fantastic teacher, thank you
Thank you for the thorough explanation on snap cutting!
Are there some woods where snap cutting simply doesn’t work; ie, spruce or other woods with interlocking grain?
Will be sure to try your techniques next time I am in the trees.
Energy management is a valid point to explore in all work that is repetitive. A little bit of energy saved goes along way over the course of a work day. Efficiency is far more sustainable than force..
👍🏼
Efficiency is so important in such a physical job. Using knowledge and experience and moving slower is should much quicker than being erratic and not ensuring good technique.
Snap cut will work on all wood, regardless of species due to grain running up and down (maybe with the exception of a huge burl or similar).
I've been a rock climber for thirty years and am a retired firefighter. I have a good size pine tree in my yard that's infested with pitch moths. The arborist wants $1500 to take it down. I think I'm going to buy a set of cheap spikes and do it myself. Learning a lot of good info watching your videos. Very nicely done.
Get the pros in to do it for you. By the time you buy spurs, harness, ropes, lanyard, pay to remove all the debris, and then have an accident, $1500 won’t seem so bad.... just my opinion as a professional and knowing what is involved. 👍
@@ClimbingArborist I have everything but the spurs and I kind of want to do it just for the experience. I've climbed hard aid routes on el cap and done a first ascent on Denali. I've felled hundreds of trees in my career. I have to think I'm every bit as qualified as most guys were for their first time. The only real advantage to hiring it out is that they would haul the debris away but I do understand your point of view. Thanks for your reply
You might want to tie in to adjacent tree in case tree you're in breaks apart. Just set rope in nearby tree and climb bad one. You can get bag and throw line at Menards for about ten bucks. Invaluable for setting rope.
Torrey I agree with Dan - get an arborist in - I have 30 yrs of alpine, ice etc and can tell you tree climbing is different but cutting in a tree with chainsaws and spurs is completely different. This is born out from watchng friends that are way better alpine/ rock climbers than I'll ever be, struggle with a saw and lanyards and it was just a mess. Believe me it's not the same, nor would it be for us if we went caving. Each rope discipline is different and very, very different if you go and do commercial work. Stay safe man. Only young guys bounce . . . . . my 2 centz
Thank you for all this information. Most of it I know for years. But some things I did right on most of the days and then on other days I didn’t because I wasn’t aware of a system in it. Now I know and will hopefully not forget again 😊
Thank you for your very good and very clear info on how to cut the right way as well as safely great vid
Yer bro great you mentioned first cut lower so you can pull it to you. More than a few fullas ive seen cut im sideways. Or higher then lower. So its harder. Thanx bro.
I love the quality of the explanation/video quality is fantastic. A lot of stuff I don't generally think about. Being more calculated with these cuts could save me some serious energy. This got me thinking about something slightly unrelated when I was looking at your tie in(s). I dabbled in SRT/SRS last year and got too busy but recently decided to grab a rope wrench/chestbox. (I use foot and knee ascender for MRS ascents occasionally so I was like what the heck.) I would like to request a video: SRT for removals and how it differs from MRS. I always tend to find removals to be more high stress, costly and dangerous than say doing a bit of deadwood. Generally we know the pros, cons and differences between MRS/SRS but I think it would be valuable to explore the benefits/problems of each system in a complex removal setting.
Thanks for your comments. I'll put this one on the list of video ideas for the future.
I'm a new climber. Your videos are the best. Thanks
My base anchor set-up for my climbing line is directly from one of your videos.
Thank you for doing these video. New climber and learning a lot. Awesome instruction
Excellent theoretical explanation combined with practice!
Well done!
🙏
Great video man. Snap cuts are absolutely essential for removals in yards with fragile plants underneath.
One of the first and most important techniques we should all be taught once we can climb. Thanks for you comment buddy
I’m learning and training in the arb industry and I’m learning a lot from your vids!
Great video Dan. Thanks for pursuing the sharing of professional guidance and illustrating the required skill involved
Thank you so much! I'm going to use this when I take down a huge elm in my yard!
👍
Love the snap cut its a good thing to have in ur tool box of knowledge... And u just keep up throwing out that great content I love this stuff... this is so inspiring,entertaining and really informative keep up the great work buddy...stay safe
I really appreciate your kind comment! Thank you for all the kind words 👍
You could also touch on having your cuts perpendicular to the lean when the lean is heavy or Wood is rotten.
Parallel to the ground right? Not perpendicular to the lean. Maybe I'm wrong
Perpendicular to the lean so the wood doesnt snap upon its own weight.
Fantastic production values. And super useful content thanks for taking the time to do such a professional job.
🙏🙏
Really nice video! I've seen arborists work and I think it is fascinating. You're all hooked up in the correct places and doesn't seem to fear the heights and you do really nice cuts. It is really amazing to watch and with this video I've learned some of how you manage to do it so beautifully. I doubt I'll ever climb up a tree to take it down though, I'll call you guys for sure 😋
Really high quality video. This is really helpful to developing climbers like me.
Nice one! The detail and production of this video is awesome!
Thanks! We appreciate your comments 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You look great professional.
Thanks
Thanks for this video it came at a time that I needed to see it.im good on the ground but I love climbing.and there training me at work to climb and work out of a bucket I needed to see this
Awesome bro!! I'm so glad you came across this at the right time. Make sure you subscribe to the channel as we have a bunch more in the pipeline that will probably help too👍
@@ClimbingArborist I've been a subscriber for a while.i learn alot from you.thanks buddy 👍
Super informative it's amazing that you're making these videos with this quality. Education at its best
理解しやすい映像で、とても参考になります。ありがとうございます。
That’s easy for you to say,🥴
Explanation is clear, easy to follow...Fine job..
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
Thank your video helped my first tree trimming 3 peanut tree big.
Great demo. Well said about the energy and frustration.
I’ve been in Arboriculture for nearly 18 years. Never used SRT yet though 😂.
Cheers for your comments. You really should give SRT/SRS Climbing a try, you’ll wonder why it’s taken you this long once you do.
@@ClimbingArborist Thanks. I will look into it. what would to recommend to use alongside a Zigzag?
Also you have to remember that lifting and holding the cut section, also adds to your WLL.
thank you so much for this ecellent explanation!
Great video and description. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment.
Very well produced! How do you get the sound quality so high when you’re speaking?
He might be wearing a small mic
Thanks bro!! We used a good quality microphone for the audio
excellent advice clearly presented without any of the machismo one often sees. thank you
Another brilliant demonstration. Thanks so much.
Appreciate your comments bro, Glad you liked it!👍
Never knew it was called a step cut lol. Good video with repete visuals. Just one question for ya, What type of descenders are you using?
Thank you for your trick :)
Love your work, at the top of your game... Good tips...
Great video. I am new to climbing and was wondering the best way to make these cuts.
Nice job, very thorough.
Just started my climbing course,at59!Cant wait!Very nervous,so I will be subscribing for sure!Keep up the good work!😁👍
Nice , vertical CHUNKS I don't use your cut which has so many names , because like you said , it's not going anywhere . Good work by you ! I loved seeing hooks on you ! Spurs . Climbers . Cali Hicks say hooks though . Peace
Hey bud, now that you re climbing with current uk arb standards, any tips to climb with the two rope (double anchor) system? Anything you've gotten stuck on or just a different methodology for access? Always nice to see someone use proper methods and equipment.
Thanks for you comment Al. This isn't an everyday system that I climb with, I do use the twin rope systems in specific trees, but this made so much sense for this particular job. I didn't want to tie in to the tree as it was very rotten, and there where two very tall trees close by that gave me two different rope angles into the tree. It is going to be a big learning curve for everyone in the U.K but I think in the end they will be better off, safer and will all improve and become more efficient climbers.
The step cut is the only cut we use on power lines. You can make your cut then boom to the top and push the pole over in manageable pieces.
Slice cuts are good too
We do the same where i work, step or a notch with a thick hinge so we can boom up
Phenomenal. videos. Great presentation and repetition!
Thanks, Dan! Really nice one.
Glad you liked it!
I can’t wait to watch them all
Best video of this method I've seen. Love the details!
Thanks for your comments, appreciate it 👍
Usually the second cut has to be done lower or in the remaining side, otherwise if something goes wrong the log or the branch is bringing down the chainsaw with him...
100% agree - be safe and make the second cut lower than first.
Thanks for the pointers, work safe.
Thanks, and same back to you, work safe 👍
Awesome points thank you.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it!
Curious, when topping a tree, is there a general rule of thumb you guys use how high you climb and\or how many feet of the top you cut off? Obviously you don't climb too high to where the trunk gets too narrow and bendy; but say if it is a 80 foot pine tree , do you cut about 15' off the top? If you could cut a 30' top out without worrying about damaging whatever, is 30' too much? If 30' is too much, why? Because of the energy release on the trunk when she goes over? Thanks
In the logging or Timber cutting world we call this a rigging cut. Mainly used for safety - called rigging cut because leaving the breaking of the cut to the rigging rats ( hookers ). Used on blow downs or felled timber which can't be bucked safely - same principle but a lot bigger then a limb. Thanks your a great instructor.
Thanks for your comments bro, interesting how you use this in your industry. Makes sense.
Have you ever run into the issue of the branch or log snapping while your saw is still in the kerf and the piece snatches your saw? I’ve had this happen so I’ve changed the order of my cuts so that I make the farthest cut from the trunk first so that if I did guess the distance between cuts wrong and the piece goes, it doesn’t wreck your saw while destroying Mrs. Robinson prized rose bushes.
I just had that happen to me the other day, my second cut was above my frist cut and the piece fell and ripped the saw right out of my hands. Only running the bar🙃
What you’re talking about is the inboard/outboard question. Do whichever on thin branches but it will become relevant doing an “inboard” final cut on wider branches. The reason for that is that it breaks away from the saw and if it’s going to trap the saw it will trap it in the static part attached to the tree. You should be left with a shelf that the saw bar is resting on just below the kerf.
Yes always do my second cut lower to prevent the saw grab situation
I was sideways over a shed last week, trimming out a nice elm. Wrestled with a snap cut until it broke loose and hit me in the FACE. Win.?
🤣🤣 That kind of experience will certainly make your cuts better in the future..
@@ClimbingArborist I'm pretty stubborn so I'm sure it's gonna take plenty of tries.
Great video great men pass on great knowledge you have a new subscriber
Glad you enjoyed it Rayo!
Great video,
SawR
Thanks, appreciate it!
One thing I will say, when doing snap cuts on horizontal limbs... isn't it better to put you top cut closer to the branch collar? There is a chance further away from your bottom cut, the limb will take your saw down with it, being trapped in the kerf. Is there is advantages of doing it one way or another? From my experience the top cut closer to the branch collar eliminates that risk with no disadvantages.
Cutting closer to the branch collar is better for small to medium limbs, cutting further away from the collar is for big heavy limbs. Top cut further towards the branch tips increases the saw snagging risk but reduces the chance of the limb barber chairing.
That's why in the UK we are taught to always top cut away from the collar side, both methods have their uses in different situations.
nice video and tutorial. At 4.00 min you show a cut on a hanging branch and your second cut, on the top is on the side where the branch will fall, so left to your undercut. I learned to do it on the other side, away from the fall so you can't get your handsaw or chainsaw pinched and falling with the branch. Was it a mistake or intended?
Doing the second cut ‘in the branch’ as opposed to in the wood that is staying is commonly taught but as you say the saw often gets pulled away cammed in the kerf. I do it as you do usually to avoid this.
Just awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wonderful. Thanks geeza'!
Great job buddy as always 👍 have a great memorial day 🎉 and be safe
Thanks! You too!👍
When you get to the larger wood, after you do the first cut (through the majority of the wood), I noticed that sometimes you made the second (smaller) cut above the initial cut. Is there a specific benefit to that? I always make my second cut below the initial cut, but I’m curious to hear of any pros and cons of the reverse approach.
Cut bottom cut last and saw won’t get ripped from hands if Groundie pulls rope at wrong time! Now I always make bottom cut last to prevent this!
Are they prescription glasses and if they are, are they in special "activity" frames for climbing if you know what I mean? Also is there any safe way of learning to spike. I'm thinking an auto belay here like the ones you find in climbing wall centres.
Nice Video From THE NORTH CANADA 🇨🇦
seems easy but each trees bit different. with big limbs be carefull tho can take ya saw if leaning. but yer great cut an if like bros fast n control does take time to get right. cheers
Holy safety lines Batman this guy ain’t gonna fall for sure
New Tree climber. So I have had little issues like getting my bar pinch when I create a under cut. How do I correct that?
holy crap! I didnt realize how high up he was until he chucked that limb at 4:33
👍
Thanks for this
No problem
Is that a Trango cinch you have for your lanyard? I’m asking cause it looks smaller than I remember?
Or is it a different version or brand?
It is a Cinch
Great video. Wondering: how do you like that battery saw?
Love the battery saw, use it pretty much on a daily basis. I Did a video on the battery saw and all of its benefits, you should check it out if you are interested in the saw.
@@ClimbingArborist Thank you I will check it out!
Nice control
Thank you
How do you rate the Husqvarna battery chainsaw ? Which one is it ?
Great tips, thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for you comment👍
I go deep on first cut then shallow on second to avoid a pinch. Guess I was doing it wrong. Damn you Asplundh
Deep first then you just need a small cut second, you’re doing it right bro
What kind of knot do you use to tie in your climbing rope to your harness? Thank you
I use a spliced eye
Do you have a tutorial about "Jump cut" ?
6:15 Can you explain how you were tied in Dan? Orange line looks like it's going to another tree, the green with a rope wrench looks like it's up the tree and the other line looks like a multisling or lanyard maybe? Great explanation on snap cuts and why snap cuts fail.
The two ropes are going to two separate trees, mainly because this tree was very rotten, and the two trees gave a really good work position with the two ropes. The Sirius is a lanyard.
@@ClimbingArborist Love the range of years over which you have been making great videos. On this issue with the tie-in, I was wondering about the lanyard; how do you avoid being tied the the dead tree with the lanyard.
Thanks mate
Cheers bro, thanks for the comment.
excellent ..
Good Job , 4.08min the 2.cut must behind the first cut.
Thank you 👏👏👍🏼
Thanks
So what I hear you saying is a sharp chain is step one! ...even though you didn’t say that. ✌🏻🇺🇸
Good video!!
Glad you enjoyed it 🤙