Cannot tell you enough how much I enjoyed these 3 videos. I was going to watch a movie tonight but im glad I chose to watch this. I have two Montes and this videos were quite informative.
I've always found it good to spin the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed and with the spark plugs removed. This enables the starter to spin the engine fast enough to send oil thru all the oil passages and eliminates a dry start. I spin it about 15 seconds, wait a while to let the starter rest, and spin it again for about 15 seconds. This should fill all the passages. I also squirt some oil into the oil pump before assembling so it will prime quicker.
12.18.20. After listening to part one I kept thinking I’ve heard this guys voice before, then it hit me after I started listening to the second video, he sounds a lot like Wendell Wellman a.k.a. Tyrone in Clint Eastwood’s 1983 movie sudden impact! Good video series, you have a very good video presence.
Three brilliant videos, told me what I needed to know, explained the pitfalls, all without bullshit, and I wasn't constantly turning down the volume to get rid of annoyingly loud music, then rewinding because I've missed an important bit of commentary. Long live old vehicles that don't constantly ding to remind you of the bleeding obvious!
It is 20/24 thank you for your videos they removed the doubt that I could do this and I did was never in doubt I could do it but your videos gave me the push and the confidence to really pull through and get it done and finish it I have not started it yet but I will in the next 2 days thank you very much hope your life is great and you deserve the best for your videos give helped thousands I am grateful for that
Excellent video series. I used to own a 1997 Buick ParkAve and a 2007 Buick LaCrosse so I am familiar with these engines. Your overhaul disclosed the devastating effects of DEX-KILL on an engine. It eats gaskets and deposits orange mud in the cooling system. I was shocked at the condition of the water pump, but perhaps it is yet another example of how DEX-KILL ruins engines. I would suggest that anyone owning a GM car with this awful substance drain the DEX-KILL, remove the freeze plugs and thoroughly clean the cooling system (radiator, heater core and engine block, replacing the water pump, thermostat, freeze plugs and plastic elbows) then refill with a better coolant (perhaps the yellow 10-year HOAT stuff). If it hadn't been for DEX-KILL, the plastic elbows, the lower intake manifold gaskets and the plastic plenum, these engines would last half a million miles. (Perhaps GM did this on purpose?)
Great videos man. I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre and one day will have to build the engine, Trans is new. I feel like it won't be as bad after watching your videos. Been working on cars for about 30 years but haven't worked on but a couple front wheel drives. Thanks man for taking the time to make these.
Great engine! I just replaced the timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, crank seal, upper and lower intake gaskets and cleaned the throttle body in my dad’s 2001 Lesabre 3.8 II. 163k and running strong. That mud you saw in the engine is caused from the Dexcool GM coolant. That stuff is awful and if not change every few years turns to sand, mud and acid and clogs the entire system along with eating away the intake gaskets. Every GM I work on I remove all the dexcool and out in universal green 50/50 from Walmart and have never had and issue with the cooling systems in GM’s after.
Subscribed. Long time old mechanic here and have heard good about the GM 3800 V6. I watched the disassembly video and now know its a good engine based on the way it is built. Another indestructible V6 engine that I took apart back in 1999 out of a 1994 ford explorer was built very very tough. I wont argue the size of it being 3.0 because in the last site I commented about that engines size three people starting attacking me and saying it didnt exist, when I know for a fact it did
Sure it wasn't pulled out of a Ranger? The 3 liter Vulcan V6 is great as well, if that's the engine. I've got one in my 94 Taurus. The Explorer 4 liter seems good and tough as well, but with a few common issues. I know the 3L vs 4L debate is common between Ranger fans. The 3L has the reliability, but lacks in the power department...
Thanks for the Part 2 video and the after action review! I think the part 1 and part 2 video will make a person more comfortable doing this type of rebuild.
😮 I love this guy. A very good reference if you're going to do this yourself. Follow his lead, and be thorough. All info you need Is right here in one video. As I've said before, I don't let anyone work on my car but I'll gladly let this guy service mine. Thank you very much sir. 2005 bonneville, 3.8, currently doing head gasket and top end upgrades.
Loved my 72 Monte, lots of room in engine bay, just change the points and condenser and plugs about every 50 K miles and all good. Got 19 MPG at 70 and AC on.
I would love to have a “How it’s Done” movie video of Droids and Android mechanics doing a Step By Step Guide to overhaul GM engines, transmissions and front wheel drive vehicles in a baby step movie..
Had overheating problem with mine and eventually radiator cracked (plastic in front of inlet). Fluids seemed clean, stat failed open but probably not all the way. New 180 degree stat vs factory 192 and new rad, runs just over 1/3 on gauge, sometimes half in stop and go. If you don't need the extra heat inside go for the 180 because it helps immensely and is an easy thing if you've got a cooling issue but not a level issue.
In New Zealand,the this end front back enging holden commodore.To reset ecu.Rev car to 3000rpm for 20 seconds.giod to go. Good job.now let your mate know when due for maintenance.I do that to all my customers.oh and yeah that smerk on our faces when things are running smooth.
Great video. I've spent the last 25 years looking at the motors north south in engine bays and to rear wheel drive. Just discovered they sit east west and used in front wheel drive
Very clean and precise style. You have me believing that I too can rebuild an engine, I bet you can explain brain surgery in 3 videos. Your channel will blow up keep pushing!!!
10:20 anyone replacing upper intake READ: make sure you have a PCV valve loaded into the new upper intake's PCV chamber AND that it has a o-ring sleeved around it! You can get a generic o-ring at O'Reilly for $0.65 without the sleeve air gets around the valve and throws codes (Do NOT ask how I know this)
I also agree - nice job on the 3 videos! I wish I had your car skills! 😊 I have an 03 Monte with the same 3.8, and I have about 190,000 miles on it. I know my car likely has similar dexcool/gasket issues... Watching you pull apart the water pump scared me... Maybe I should dig into mine... ?
Loved watching this, my buick lesabre giving me issues personally and it's nice to see how much work goes into the difficult issues and it doesn't look to be the worst... 2001 custom. I like the car and has working ac lol so not rushing my way into another cheap car.
Somethings I am amazed at GM and other things like the rear sparkplugs, fiberglass blanket firewall, and the tensioner bracket coolant lines with plastic elbows. what was GM thinking?
Great video. 2001 Buick LeSabre Limited here. did the lower intake, upper intake, valve cover gaskets, running good. Cleaned everything out along the way like the throttle body and such. Had the MAP sensor fall apart like yours did, nothing like some alcohol and some gorilla glue...working great. I forgot to do the OBD II , I have one somewhere so I will connect up my android phone to it. Your video reminded me of it. Oil coming from the bottom of the engine but no overheating, temp gauge shows just like yours. I hope the oil pan gasket is not faulty but with 192K miles, it probably is wearing out. Should I change the oil sending unit? thanks again so much !!!! I can't believe you rebuilt one of these, transverse V6's really fit tight under the car
Done well. If you don't mind a little advice, installing the engine on the cradle and going in from the bottom is much easier. That's been my experience anyways. Good video
Engine not getting coolant, Could it be a clogged thermostat, Radiator a little muddy? Could water pump be broke 244,000 miles, thinking of replacing lower intake gasket?
My 3800 on a Park ave recently went to hell because of coolant in the combustion chamber. So now I need to see where it failed. UIM and LIM gaskets were both replaced along with the plenum. So I'm going to have to see what happened. It's unfortunate
I have a 2006 grand prix and the head gasket is on its last leg,, this is definitely step by step.. do you do online work or just work on local friends and neighbors cars?
Well I've started on my 2006 grand prix and so far heads are off and so far everything looks clean, I'll be getting the engine out soon. All of the gaskets are pretty much desegregated which I expected but water pump is good still.. any suggestions? I'll follow your video step by step and this will save me tons of money. Any suggestions?
Quick question about that aux trans cooler. Do you live in a warmer climate and don’t have to worry about heating with the transmission? If I was going to install an aux cooler for the trans should I route it from the stock intercooler to the aux cooler back to the transmission or just keep it separated from the intercooler like in the video? Thanks again
Thay work with or without the stock cooler, but you can use a much smaller one if you use it with the stock one. I made it separate because the trans. will work at a lower temperature than the engine and the soft parts will last longer. It does have a longer warm up time, but I'm okay with that.
@@onewhocollects6781 thank you very much! I’ll probably just run with the stock intercooler and an aux cooler. Great video btw it really helped me understand the process and I hope I get to rebuild my very own 3.8
good clip, ive never rebuilt one but its looks all good what you did. i have the same motor and im going to rebuild it. the reason why is because mines back firing through the throttle body, is that from spark or my crank shaft has slipped on a piston? it uses so much petrol to keep driving. i have replaced injectors all 6, new fuel rail too, i watch all 3 your clips too. good job mate.
@A. Melbs haha bitch of a thing still eat fuel, back fires through throttle body still. my cam is worn badly, my dif is now slipping too, i love my car and not will to let it go,
@A. Melbs haha yer my vx i was thinking about mini spool, but my luck it would smash itself apart, i got hyundia excel and put a racing clutch into it, now 5 gears is bend from gripping so strongly its bent the shaft, because its a racing clutch you cant ride the clutch, just drop it everywhere, haha even in the shops trying to reverse out parking bay the clutch has to be dropped, im here in perth and just trying to find 3.8L motor is getting hard now,
Very nice i'm going to be doing a rebuild on m7 97 fire bird with the 3.8 this will be my first rebuild any tips or suggestions? also how easy is it to time these engines
I'm a injured Army veteran I don't do air conditioning anymore but the service truck van E-150 Ford oil change every 4000 miles so I put new tires on the truck had the oil changed at Walmart the truck was running fine and the night before I left the oil was crystal clear gold color I decided to get the antifreeze replaced they use such high suction for so long on the coolant reservoir that they blew the head gasket on the truck I didn't know there was a problem until I got home the truck never ran hot but the bearings that lower bearings and their lifted was so noisy that I turned the engine off took the plates off now I'm stuck without a vehicle is it possible that they blew the head gasket by using such high suction pressure for so long to remove the antifreeze what do you think the engine was the largest V6
Old video - But do not buy aftermarket sensors. crankshaft position sensor, CamShaft Position sensor, Oxygen sensor, MAF, or MAP. Especially on a GM vehicle. OEM has enough issues, why buy a cheaper aftermarket part when the OEM can't get it right all the time. There's a reason why OEM sensors are so expensive. Because they are critical to the operation of the engine. You just overhauled the engine, why on earth would you cheap out with aftermarket sensors? You are literally just throwing money at the wall. As chances are, the owner will have to replace that sensor in a few months. Aftermarket sensors absolutely suck. Especially with the MAP and MAF sensors. But you make a point to mention "I could have found it cheaper." You do not want to go that route, especially after overhauling an engine. Put quality parts in the vehicle, or just stop. Only part I have a problem with in thise series. Thanks for the "walkthrough." But please, do not ever advocate cheaping out on key sensors. Lead by example. Let the cheap skates suffer the consequences. EDIT: Also for anyone seeing this video after the fact, the entire PCV valve kit is $22.49 OEM at advanced auto. If you end up having to replace the MAP, just buy this kit. It's part number # 89017274 on advanced auto. Plus the PCV valve is a wear item. To be replaced every 20k to 50k miles. So just buy the kit (Comes with valve, Orings, and new mounting bracket.), and then from then on you can usually get away with replacing just the valve. Which is $4.29. OEM (Part number 214-2296) As the MAP sensor being "welded" to the mounting bracket, is common. Happened to me as well. So buy the sensor (OEM) and the kit. Then after all parts are new, every 20k to 50 k miles, you should just need to buy the valve. Also LUBE the sensor with some oil or silicon spray. Either use engine oil from the vehicle, or again silicon spray. But engine oil is the best bet for at least the MAP. Never put a sensor with any rubber components in dry. Same thing with the Orings for the PCV valve kit. LUBE them! Don't put them in dry. To save money, you can always match up the PCV valve with oil change service interval and use the engine oil that was drained from the motor to lube the Orings and sensor. Or, if the service differs too much in mileage, grab a quart of oil. Fill the cap from the quart with oil and dip the Orings and sensor.
Before I installed the rear cover, I tilted the engine so the back was up and filled the oil passages best I could. I couldn't figure out any other way to prime it.
Cannot tell you enough how much I enjoyed these 3 videos. I was going to watch a movie tonight but im glad I chose to watch this. I have two Montes and this videos were quite informative.
Thank you very much.
The 3800, such a simple, reliable and good engine.
then they had to screw things up with dohc and vvt - idiot engineers
I've always found it good to spin the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed and with the spark plugs removed. This enables the starter to spin the engine fast enough to send oil thru all the oil passages and eliminates a dry start. I spin it about 15 seconds, wait a while to let the starter rest, and spin it again for about 15 seconds. This should fill all the passages. I also squirt some oil into the oil pump before assembling so it will prime quicker.
Nice work. You have a very dry well paced speaking style, perfect for one-liner jokes. Deadpan humor is good.
12.18.20. After listening to part one I kept thinking I’ve heard this guys voice before, then it hit me after I started listening to the second video, he sounds a lot like Wendell Wellman a.k.a. Tyrone in Clint Eastwood’s 1983 movie sudden impact! Good video series, you have a very good video presence.
lmbooooooo
Three brilliant videos, told me what I needed to know, explained the pitfalls, all without bullshit, and I wasn't constantly turning down the volume to get rid of annoyingly loud music, then rewinding because I've missed an important bit of commentary.
Long live old vehicles that don't constantly ding to remind you of the bleeding obvious!
It is 20/24 thank you for your videos they removed the doubt that I could do this and I did was never in doubt I could do it but your videos gave me the push and the confidence to really pull through and get it done and finish it I have not started it yet but I will in the next 2 days thank you very much hope your life is great and you deserve the best for your videos give helped thousands I am grateful for that
Excellent video series. I used to own a 1997 Buick ParkAve and a 2007 Buick LaCrosse so I am familiar with these engines. Your overhaul disclosed the devastating effects of DEX-KILL on an engine. It eats gaskets and deposits orange mud in the cooling system. I was shocked at the condition of the water pump, but perhaps it is yet another example of how DEX-KILL ruins engines. I would suggest that anyone owning a GM car with this awful substance drain the DEX-KILL, remove the freeze plugs and thoroughly clean the cooling system (radiator, heater core and engine block, replacing the water pump, thermostat, freeze plugs and plastic elbows) then refill with a better coolant (perhaps the yellow 10-year HOAT stuff). If it hadn't been for DEX-KILL, the plastic elbows, the lower intake manifold gaskets and the plastic plenum, these engines would last half a million miles. (Perhaps GM did this on purpose?)
Great videos man. I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre and one day will have to build the engine, Trans is new. I feel like it won't be as bad after watching your videos. Been working on cars for about 30 years but haven't worked on but a couple front wheel drives. Thanks man for taking the time to make these.
I have a 2004 Buick Lesabre with shift issues. Is there a “movie” on Buick Lesabre transmissions?
Great engine! I just replaced the timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, crank seal, upper and lower intake gaskets and cleaned the throttle body in my dad’s 2001 Lesabre 3.8 II. 163k and running strong. That mud you saw in the engine is caused from the Dexcool GM coolant. That stuff is awful and if not change every few years turns to sand, mud and acid and clogs the entire system along with eating away the intake gaskets. Every GM I work on I remove all the dexcool and out in universal green 50/50 from Walmart and have never had and issue with the cooling systems in GM’s after.
Excellent video, thank you.
Your relaxed narration is therapeutic. Peace from Australia ✌🏼🇦🇺🌏
Subscribed. Long time old mechanic here and have heard good about the GM 3800 V6. I watched the disassembly video and now know its a good engine based on the way it is built. Another indestructible V6 engine that I took apart back in 1999 out of a 1994 ford explorer was built very very tough. I wont argue the size of it being 3.0 because in the last site I commented about that engines size three people starting attacking me and saying it didnt exist, when I know for a fact it did
Sure it wasn't pulled out of a Ranger? The 3 liter Vulcan V6 is great as well, if that's the engine. I've got one in my 94 Taurus.
The Explorer 4 liter seems good and tough as well, but with a few common issues. I know the 3L vs 4L debate is common between Ranger fans. The 3L has the reliability, but lacks in the power department...
You're so patient I can't 😅 once I get going I start to sweat.
I've had several of these 3.8L gms and they do have a relearn procedure for retraining the ecm and will solve the weird issues
Thanks for the Part 2 video and the after action review! I think the part 1 and part 2 video will make a person more comfortable doing this type of rebuild.
Thanks for the video. I'm in the middle of a rebuild and this has been the most informative video that I have seen.
Yo man you are the only one to make a video of a 3800 Series 2 V6 engine the right way🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑
i actually had no problem watching part 1 and part 2. good job man.
I found this video to be very informative. Thank you for your time and efforts in sharing with us. 👍🏿👍🏿🙂
😮 I love this guy. A very good reference if you're going to do this yourself. Follow his lead, and be thorough. All info you need Is right here in one video. As I've said before, I don't let anyone work on my car but I'll gladly let this guy service mine. Thank you very much sir. 2005 bonneville, 3.8, currently doing head gasket and top end upgrades.
Thank you very much.
Nicely done 3 videos! Very enjoyable to watch. You do a nice job explaining. Thank you for posting these!
Pos
Loved my 72 Monte, lots of room in engine bay, just change the points and condenser and plugs about every 50 K miles and all good. Got 19 MPG at 70 and AC on.
I would love to have a “How it’s Done” movie video of Droids and Android mechanics doing a Step By Step Guide to overhaul GM engines, transmissions and front wheel drive vehicles in a baby step movie..
Thanks for making these SUPERBLY informative videos. EXCELLENT videos, great job..
Had overheating problem with mine and eventually radiator cracked (plastic in front of inlet). Fluids seemed clean, stat failed open but probably not all the way. New 180 degree stat vs factory 192 and new rad, runs just over 1/3 on gauge, sometimes half in stop and go. If you don't need the extra heat inside go for the 180 because it helps immensely and is an easy thing if you've got a cooling issue but not a level issue.
Enjoyed the Tutorial about 3800 engines, nice.
In New Zealand,the this end front back enging holden commodore.To reset ecu.Rev car to 3000rpm for 20 seconds.giod to go.
Good job.now let your mate know when due for maintenance.I do that to all my customers.oh and yeah that smerk on our faces when things are running smooth.
Great video. I've spent the last 25 years looking at the motors north south in engine bays and to rear wheel drive. Just discovered they sit east west and used in front wheel drive
Very clean and precise style. You have me believing that I too can rebuild an engine, I bet you can explain brain surgery in 3 videos. Your channel will blow up keep pushing!!!
10:20 anyone replacing upper intake READ: make sure you have a PCV valve loaded into the new upper intake's PCV chamber AND that it has a o-ring sleeved around it! You can get a generic o-ring at O'Reilly for $0.65 without the sleeve air gets around the valve and throws codes
(Do NOT ask how I know this)
I also agree - nice job on the 3 videos! I wish I had your car skills! 😊 I have an 03 Monte with the same 3.8, and I have about 190,000 miles on it. I know my car likely has similar dexcool/gasket issues... Watching you pull apart the water pump scared me... Maybe I should dig into mine... ?
Loved watching this, my buick lesabre giving me issues personally and it's nice to see how much work goes into the difficult issues and it doesn't look to be the worst... 2001 custom. I like the car and has working ac lol so not rushing my way into another cheap car.
Now i can follow this series using performance parts huge help
It's amazing how much junk is needed to move a person from point a to point b.
Somethings I am amazed at GM and other things like the rear sparkplugs, fiberglass blanket firewall, and the tensioner bracket coolant lines with plastic elbows. what was GM thinking?
Cost savings
Great video. 2001 Buick LeSabre Limited here. did the lower intake, upper intake, valve cover gaskets, running good. Cleaned everything out along the way like the throttle body and such. Had the MAP sensor fall apart like yours did, nothing like some alcohol and some gorilla glue...working great. I forgot to do the OBD II , I have one somewhere so I will connect up my android phone to it. Your video reminded me of it. Oil coming from the bottom of the engine but no overheating, temp gauge shows just like yours. I hope the oil pan gasket is not faulty but with 192K miles, it probably is wearing out. Should I change the oil sending unit? thanks again so much !!!! I can't believe you rebuilt one of these, transverse V6's really fit tight under the car
Done well. If you don't mind a little advice, installing the engine on the cradle and going in from the bottom is much easier. That's been my experience anyways. Good video
Yeah I Probably should have done that.
@@onewhocollects6781 I wish I had you here 2 help me fix up my 98 gtp I just bought
I've done it both ways and it was a bit harder and took longer to take it from the top
@@onewhocollects6781 so it's been awhile now. How's that engine holding up?
@@boosted0079 Still being driven with no problems. I can't believe it myself. lol.
We need a video on those subframe mounts
I can't believe you went with dnj but I might try them now!
Good job..congrats
Nice work
🤘🏻 🌟 🤘
Put in a 180 * Thermostat for overheating issues, just won’t really have any heat though. Swap back in the WINTERTIME....
She's a runner!!
Nice job
Thanks a lot for this video friend.
Engine not getting coolant, Could it be a clogged thermostat, Radiator a little muddy? Could water pump be broke 244,000 miles, thinking of replacing lower intake gasket?
in what year did the series 2 engine released and is it the ecotec version?
My 3800 on a Park ave recently went to hell because of coolant in the combustion chamber. So now I need to see where it failed. UIM and LIM gaskets were both replaced along with the plenum. So I'm going to have to see what happened. It's unfortunate
Is that a plastic intake manifold? I heard it was good to replace those with aluminum ones, like on the Series III (which I have).
This one came with an aluminum manifold. The plenum is plastic and has been replaced once already. Yeah they're known for failing.
I have a 2006 grand prix and the head gasket is on its last leg,, this is definitely step by step.. do you do online work or just work on local friends and neighbors cars?
I do this just for my self pretty much.
Well I've started on my 2006 grand prix and so far heads are off and so far everything looks clean, I'll be getting the engine out soon. All of the gaskets are pretty much desegregated which I expected but water pump is good still.. any suggestions? I'll follow your video step by step and this will save me tons of money. Any suggestions?
Before you replaced the defective injectors The engine sounded like a Maytag washing machine with a full load in the spin cycle
Good job
Quick question about that aux trans cooler. Do you live in a warmer climate and don’t have to worry about heating with the transmission? If I was going to install an aux cooler for the trans should I route it from the stock intercooler to the aux cooler back to the transmission or just keep it separated from the intercooler like in the video? Thanks again
Thay work with or without the stock cooler, but you can use a much smaller one if you use it with the stock one. I made it separate because the trans. will work at a lower temperature than the engine and the soft parts will last longer. It does have a longer warm up time, but I'm okay with that.
@@onewhocollects6781 thank you very much! I’ll probably just run with the stock intercooler and an aux cooler. Great video btw it really helped me understand the process and I hope I get to rebuild my very own 3.8
good clip, ive never rebuilt one but its looks all good what you did. i
have the same motor and im going to rebuild it. the reason why is
because mines back firing through the throttle body, is that from spark
or my crank shaft has slipped on a piston? it uses so much petrol to
keep driving. i have replaced injectors all 6, new fuel rail too, i watch all 3 your clips too. good job mate.
@A. Melbs haha bitch of a thing still eat fuel, back fires through throttle body still. my cam is worn badly, my dif is now slipping too, i love my car and not will to let it go,
@A. Melbs haha yer my vx i was thinking about mini spool, but my luck it would smash itself apart, i got hyundia excel and put a racing clutch into it, now 5 gears is bend from gripping so strongly its bent the shaft, because its a racing clutch you cant ride the clutch, just drop it everywhere, haha even in the shops trying to reverse out parking bay the clutch has to be dropped, im here in perth and just trying to find 3.8L motor is getting hard now,
Very nice i'm going to be doing a rebuild on m7 97 fire bird with the 3.8 this will be my first rebuild any tips or suggestions? also how easy is it to time these engines
If you mean ignition timing, you don't. It sets it self when you start it up.
Well done.
He needed to talk with a little more excitement. But nice to see 3.8 rebuild.
I'm a injured Army veteran I don't do air conditioning anymore but the service truck van E-150 Ford oil change every 4000 miles so I put new tires on the truck had the oil changed at Walmart the truck was running fine and the night before I left the oil was crystal clear gold color I decided to get the antifreeze replaced they use such high suction for so long on the coolant reservoir that they blew the head gasket on the truck I didn't know there was a problem until I got home the truck never ran hot but the bearings that lower bearings and their lifted was so noisy that I turned the engine off took the plates off now I'm stuck without a vehicle is it possible that they blew the head gasket by using such high suction pressure for so long to remove the antifreeze what do you think the engine was the largest V6
Great tips thank you
Gotta be proud!
I suddenly want to watch Forest Gump.
i know this is a old video how many miles were on that engine before u rebuilt her?
about 200,000 ish.
Ewe Shood put inn Tittlé
"Whill itt Runn" ¿¿¿¿¿ ¡¡¡¡
"generator"?
How you adjusting the valves
There's no adjustment. It's preset.
Oil maybe 🤔
nice work but you put on the plastic top end on thats why these engine suck it will leak change it to the series 3 top end then it will be perfect
The video was of little use to me, my Camaro has the engine centered, apart from that intake admission of this engine is not the original.
6:57 almost had a Heart Attack Laughing Motor mount bolt missing 1 half On,No Need GM Car Going😆😆😆 Final Destination Going once Going twice Sold🤩😟
Old video - But do not buy aftermarket sensors. crankshaft position sensor, CamShaft Position sensor, Oxygen sensor, MAF, or MAP. Especially on a GM vehicle. OEM has enough issues, why buy a cheaper aftermarket part when the OEM can't get it right all the time. There's a reason why OEM sensors are so expensive. Because they are critical to the operation of the engine. You just overhauled the engine, why on earth would you cheap out with aftermarket sensors? You are literally just throwing money at the wall. As chances are, the owner will have to replace that sensor in a few months. Aftermarket sensors absolutely suck. Especially with the MAP and MAF sensors. But you make a point to mention "I could have found it cheaper." You do not want to go that route, especially after overhauling an engine. Put quality parts in the vehicle, or just stop.
Only part I have a problem with in thise series. Thanks for the "walkthrough." But please, do not ever advocate cheaping out on key sensors. Lead by example. Let the cheap skates suffer the consequences.
EDIT: Also for anyone seeing this video after the fact, the entire PCV valve kit is $22.49 OEM at advanced auto. If you end up having to replace the MAP, just buy this kit. It's part number # 89017274 on advanced auto. Plus the PCV valve is a wear item. To be replaced every 20k to 50k miles. So just buy the kit (Comes with valve, Orings, and new mounting bracket.), and then from then on you can usually get away with replacing just the valve. Which is $4.29. OEM (Part number 214-2296) As the MAP sensor being "welded" to the mounting bracket, is common. Happened to me as well. So buy the sensor (OEM) and the kit. Then after all parts are new, every 20k to 50 k miles, you should just need to buy the valve. Also LUBE the sensor with some oil or silicon spray. Either use engine oil from the vehicle, or again silicon spray. But engine oil is the best bet for at least the MAP. Never put a sensor with any rubber components in dry. Same thing with the Orings for the PCV valve kit. LUBE them! Don't put them in dry. To save money, you can always match up the PCV valve with oil change service interval and use the engine oil that was drained from the motor to lube the Orings and sensor. Or, if the service differs too much in mileage, grab a quart of oil. Fill the cap from the quart with oil and dip the Orings and sensor.
Did you prime the engine in anyway or just start it up? I'm getting ready to drop mine in and I'm worried about oil pressure
Before I installed the rear cover, I tilted the engine so the back was up and filled the oil passages best I could. I couldn't figure out any other way to prime it.
@@onewhocollects6781 i already dropped it in damn it... I'll just crank it with the spark and fuel out hopefully will do the trick