My R32 Broke Down Because of One Dead Sensor
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2021
- Crank position sensor failure is common on VR6 engines. The crankshaft position sensor died on my R32 while I was stopped at the drive through. In this video I show you how the crank sensor works, how the crank sensor fails, and of course how to fix a bad crank sensor. There is a quick way to diagnose a failure of the crank sensor that I will cover too.
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disclaimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the Humble Mechanic and you. Every situation may be different, and the Humble Mechanic does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. The Humble Mechanic and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk. - Авто та транспорт
“You don’t want to go into our hole without some lubricant! “
This channel is full of life advice
K as in Kayak, Y as in Yukon.
Coconut oil. Slippery, cheap, doesn’t spill and never gets sticky.
@@dillydave13 doesn't taste bad, either.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931
Oh jeez!
I'm adding the crank position sensor to a list of one-time preventative maintenance tasks for my 2.8L VR6.
Many thanks. I had precisely this problem in the DC area a decade ago with a 2001 VW Golf. It broke down while I was taking a shortcut through some city streets to avoid a jammed up highway. This facilitated towing. Unfortunately, Pep Boys diagnosed the problem as a faulty ignition coil. ($450) I broke down on the same street and block exactly two weeks later. The same tow truck driver took the call which made for a few laughs. The tow truck driver got the truck on the flatbed, but sprung a large hydraulic leak, so I got to see his shop on the way back to Pep Boys. They got it right the second time, for about $500. They didn't offer a rebate for the botched diagnosis. As this was the fourth in a series of repairs. (OXS, water pump) I felt it was time for a nice new GTI.
I needed this video 4.5 years ago 😭
'02 VR6 is gone and have a CC now. About to upgrade to an Arteon.
I'm feeling you bro! My R32 also broke down because of that sensor. While driving the engine shut down and won't start anymore. After the engine cooled down it started again. A very common problem. Greetz from germany
So pleased you were able to nurse an injured Wookie back to life Charles.
Yeah, quite an important sensor that.
The ECU relies on that for when to inject and fire the plugs.
Between tooth pulses it uses time to work out the angle that the engine rotates in that space.
It is safe to assume that an engine speed will not change significantly within 5 to 10 degrees, I do not know the tooth count there but this is close enough for illustration.
And yes, the gap is a reference point.
Very robust as they have no electronics in them, but the wiring does eventually fail.
I get the feeling there should be more tutorials about testing automotive sensors or training available, even for dealer techs.
Swapping parts blindly till it works is miserable.
It's like that though.
I enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing.
Kind regards,
South Africa
Mine did this a few months ago. Otherwise, my R32 has been very reliable. I wish I had this video to refer to when mine died haha. I appreciate everything you do, man. Thank you.
That Cook-Out mention hurt my soul a little bit... Man i miss back home 😢
theres a burger joint in lincoln nebraska called "backyard burger." when you go through the drive thru, they say "thanks for driving through our backyard, what can i get for you today?" its pretty clever
I went to Popeye's to pick up some chicken for lunch today in my 2000 MK4 Jetta 2L. Parked and went in as I hate to idle in the drive-thru. Came out with my order, got in the car, cranked and no start. Instantly thought of this video. Cranked several more times and still no start. Said a Hail Mary and tried again (pushed down on the accelerator this time like in the old days) and she started! Got home and plugged in the code reader which returned a P0322 code. Rewatched your video and there was that code. I'll replace the sensor as soon as I can pick one up. Not going to check the other stuff as I'm sure this 21 year old sensor probably needs replacing regardless.
Thanks for posting this video.
When I saw the title I knew it as crank position sensor. My mk4 2.0 left me stranded twice thankfully it’s easy to get to and I fixed it in an autozone parking lot.
Can you please start adding part numbers to the description?
Ya know I meant to put it in, and totally spaced. But the thing I worry about is changes in PNs. But that’s a great idea
Love the needle sweep and the colour screen, just got my screen in my 25th Anniversary.
Keep up the good work dude.
the problem with the sensor can be traced to three main causes - all related to age:
1) these types of sensors have magnet built into them. As magnets heat up they loose strength. So with many heating cycles, the magnet becomes so weak that the sensor cannot generate signal strong enough for the ECU to recognize and it shuts down.
2) the coil inside of the sensor also ages increasing its resistance with age and temperature, eventually it has resistance high enough and same thing happens, ECU can't read the signal any more and shuts down
3) in this case, VW fell for the same problem that all German manufacturers fell for - GREEN PARTY. In late 90's and early 2000's, the German government mandated that all plastics in a car had to be recyclable or biodegradable. They started making the wire insulation from PLA, biodegradable plastic that lasts about ten years and then completely disintegrates into dust.
Mercedes had exactly the same problems with the wiring and the crank position sensors on their engines.
Simplest fault diag / resolution ever 😁 if only all faults were as simple!
I know right!!!
@@HumbleMechanic hi from England I'm haveing same issue with my pd150 arl engine code says crankshaft position sensor I reset code then and a few month later it will come bk any advice wat I should b looking out for love your chanal tia
@@markrobinson3868 Like he said, likely the sensors or the wires right by them, and they are cheap enough to buy and put in.
Good day I have a question? Does the knock sensor affect the performance of the car? It’s a MK4 Vw golf gti vr6 24 valve?
@@christopherwitter9496 Yes it makes a big difference in fuel consumption, as the engine management will then run rich, so as not to have any chance of cylinder temperatures going too high and causing knock, and will also run on a very conservative advance map for the same reason, so your power will drop. IIRC your VR6 engine has 2 knock sensors, and they are not interchangeable, but aftermarket ones are cheap and easy to install.
Honestly my new favourite channel. Never get anything like this in the workshop, just vans and trucks mostly. Nice to see this kinda stuff. One more thing, the lower gearbox mount, is that aftermarket ?
Actually a good idea Charles, VAG should implement OBD2 data in all their infotainment displays. ;-)
This would be a nice feature to have, I wonder what the dealers will think!
you are triying to stop VW on making money on scans? thats not how it works hahaha
How did he make it do this?? Is that a custom cluster or what?
@@R3Cat I guess it's an "ColorMFD" display
Are you even a VW/Audi enthusiast if you don't have ATLEAST ONE scan tool in your glovebox??
I carry my OBDeleven in my glove box now all the time, just in case.
European cars in general. My BMW would have an intermittent check engine light in the winter. The same code tuned cars get. I just delete it and it never comes back until next winter.
Wow, Charles, that was very detailed diagnosis! I enjoyed watching how you find the issue and check the old sensor! Kinda extreme! But well worth it!! Many thumbs up!
Had this problem on my vr6 minutes before I was going on holiday in it. Called AA and the man said it sometimes gets magnetised. He said take the plug off and short it out and then it started and is run ever since.
U r great. I literally learn from your videos
I am still in training to become a mechanic here in The Netherlands.
There are here alot of VW audi cars with lots of problems. So I learnt and still learning from your experience.
BIG THANKS AND KEEP MAKING MORE VIDEOS
Thank you for sharing the continuous advice. 🙂
Thanks for the tip about the rev counter. Good video.
Hey Charles - I believe we just had a conversation about the G28 for an Audi TT Mk2! Glad it turned out okay. There are worse places to wait for a tow truck! Just an FYI, it may be a good time to check the Secondary Air Pump Filter element as they tend to get a bit cruddy depending on where you live and the roads you drive. As always, excellent video. - Cheers from Switzerland! :-)
I love your channel, but you have made me so afraid of owning a Golf R32 that I've put it out of my mind. Keep up the great work.
I feel like it should be the opposite. You’re now empowered to fixture car if it breaks!
Don't be afraid. VW makes good cars and engines. I had an Golf II GTD. It also have some breakdowns becuase of age, but mostly because the last owner had given it a rough time. Some R32 have been beated by the early owners but many have also treated the car with love and respect and those will run nicely.
Well, I read the title and I said to myself, "it's either the crank position sensor, or the cam position sensor." That's the only thing I could think of that would absolutely stop a car dead like that, without even limp-home mode.
And how do you get your instrument cluster to pull fault codes?!! I want to do this!!
I had a cam position sensor go bad in my mk6 2.5, took me forever to figure it out without it throwing any codes. Car would sputter and cut out at stops. Finally figured it out after replacing the crank sensor. Now runs no issues at all
This this might be the issue with my mk3 VR6. Thanks for the insight and pointer in the right direction! :D
I had the crank position sensor on my Mk4 2.0 AEG engine cause the no start one day. Luckily I was parked right by a service shop and they scanned it and found the issue right away, but they didn't have the part. After the car cooled a bit I was able to start it and drove home! I ordered part and got it replaced it with much less effort than your VR6 that's for sure.Still have my 1999.5 Jetta with 265Kmi and still running great but it is gutless but no complaints original clutch too!
Awesome video as always. Thanks for the heads up. Also congrats on Team S.
that happened to my buddy before at a Tim Hortons drive thru with a 2003 1.8t Jetta Wagon. hahahaha everyone behind him was honking and he was just waving his hand out the window showing that it wasn't his fault. He ended up having to ask the drive thru attendant through the speaker for some help pushing his car. what a time lol
Considering the condition of the insulation & seeing how close that harness comes to the engine I am surprised you didn't recommend some heat wrap on it. Perhaps the tight fit may prevent that from being used in this case. Good job on the diagnosis. Did you tell the wife you used her toothbrush? LoL 😂.
I replaced a clutch and DMF on my E46 a few years ago, it was the first big job I ever did, was going great, replaced the rear main seal while I was there, put everything back, no crack signal, after some diagnosis and many nights, I didn't realise at the time but I has removed the crank pulse ring which sits between the RMS and DMF, so it all had to come back off, new ring as I had lost it - lesson learned
Thank you for sharing your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
Just did a 1.8t swap for In my 01 a4 and have crank no start and pretty sure this I’m my issue. Pretty funny how you released this video. Car starts with starter fluid issue is the injectors won’t fire even tho there is fuel pressure and the injectors work perfectly. If anything it teaches me how to replace the sensor properly when I attempt it in the morning
Charles, I'm shocked at how dirty your engine is!
My Mk4 R32 crank sensor (VSS) has failed twice in the 5 years I've owned it. Won't start without it, that's for sure.
Mine was easier as the secondary air has been deleted.
Why does it fail so often? :)
I carry a vd700 VAG scanner in my tool bag. 2001 GLX 4motion Wagon. It's like driving an aging bomb, but I love that car.
dude I wish some of these other channels that do car stuff showed as in depth as this video. Bummer of an issue but it made for a good video for us!
Thanks so much!
glad to see some info on the R32 but sorry it had to come at your expense. I always have a cheap Amazon OBDII sensor in every Audi/VW I drive.
great video. been there, done that! my 97 MK3 VR6 turns itself off if it goes over 5000-5500 RPM and was reporting faulty crank AND cam position sensor. Luckily just throwing this crank sensor at it seems to have fixed that error but still dying over 5k RPM and saying cam position sensor is out of range. I was going to just throw another sensor at it but given what you're saying here I suspect there's going to be something else going on. I've just dealt with it for years now as local mechanics haven't been helpful and I don't know where to look.
I thought that I was the only one that was stranded at a drive thru Lol for the same issue, just did mine about 4 month ago and I was freezing putting the new sensor, we got to love our vr6, food luck Charls!
This just happened to my brother’s MK4 1.8T this weekend as we were driving from Fontana Village to the Tail of the Dragon! Luckily the WITW Facebook group confirmed the issue based on the code and the fact that the car shut off as it gets warm and you slow to a stop! We were able to get the part which was about 1.5hrs away and fix it at our cabin in Fontana.
So much respect for mecanique guys
Fun fact: secondary air pump makes a great door stop. Lol those standoffs are broken on like every car and they're pretty expensive for what they are. Surprised you still have the air pump. To me, it's nothing but extra clutter and a mandatory item to delete. No bouncing tach when cranking= no tach signal. The easiest way to diag a bad crank sensor is exactly what you did by checking the resistance with the DVOM. This goes for basically any car. Usually you don't even need to remove it and you can just back probe the pins. The shielding is gone on yours and surprisingly it didn't fail way sooner. The air gap on the sensor boss can effect the performance of it for sure. I've seen rust jacking/ oxidation actually keep the car from running because the previous installer didn't check it. The sensor wasn't close enough to the trigger wheel. Funny stuff, but kept a few folks scratching they're heads after they threw a new CPS at it and it still wouldn't run.
So many people complaining about not trusting VWs over parts like this failing. It’s a sensor in the engine block, which gets really hot and cools over and over again. It’s not a VW design failure, it’s just not cost effective for any company to engineer sensors that outlive the average car.
I recently scored a cheap non running VW Golf GTI 2.0 with code 16706, quick diagnostics and £11.50 for a crank sensor she was up and running.
Take care of her!
@@Swordie100 oh she's now garaged, dry weather use only
A guy had a car that had a bad wheel speed sensor...that caused the power steering (electric) not to work, along with the traction control, ABS, cruise control systems. Scotty from Star Trek once said, the more you complicate the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain.
Oh yes. Totally aware of that sensor in my A3 8L. In my case, the good thing was it only went into reduced power mode with a check engine light AND ESP light on. I was able to reset it by stopping, turning car off and on again. I assume it did not leave me stranded, because my car also has the G40 at the camshaft (which also failed quite recently AND that thing is behind the camshaft wheel (AVU)).
VAGs and their sensors are quite annoying.
I learned my lesson looooong ago, I carry an OBD11 in my Audi at all times and let it dangle off the rear view mirror when not in use.
Have you considered buying an Acura? :)
@@TassieLorenzo Already have an 03 Accord as a back-up don't you worry about that.
Any updates on the balck R32?
Oh man... my 89 Accord had an engine coolant temp sensor *SLOWLY* die...or as Honda called it, a thermo water sensor. Never threw a CEL, just acted weird and made me look at SO many other things.
Tore the distributor down to clean and re-lube it, cleaned and applied new heat sink paste on the igniter, replaced the ignition coil (res *was* out of spec), plugs with a tighter gap... also new fpr, new injectors, almost went with a new pump, re-soldered my main relay (did need it...)
Everything was pointing towards ignition and fuel issues... until the sensor FINALLY failed and caused the engine to flood on start up. $15 later, and it ran like a dream after that.
**btw, the car had 3 separate coolant temp sensors: the TW sensor (to the computer), the temp switch (fans), and the sender (signal to dash). None of them communicate with each other, and they all did different shit.
The more I watch this guys videos the more I learn how much I should not be working on my mk5.
As a fellow Passat B7 owner with 246k miles on the car, nothing bring more peace to my mind than driving around with a BlueDriver cheap diagnostic tool in my glovebox 😂😂😂
Accurate diagnosis is key! :)
My 2002 passat started to run like crap at first start. If you tried to Rev it up it would bog out and stall. No check engine light, then it didn't want to start for 3 or 4 turns and when it did it would bog and stall. Ended up being the engine coolant temp sensor, pretty crazy that sensor could cause those problems.
Nice instrument cluster, think i missed this video.
I watched the first couple seconds and i already guessed it was the CPS same thing happened to me a while back 24v vr
Had the exact same issue (one of the only 2 -and there are people that speak bad about Alfa... - in 285000km - 177k miles, the other being a little known problem to the under-seats connectors of the safety belt tensioners that triggered the airbag warning light) in my Alfa Romeo 156.
The car had 1 month of life and I was coming back from a work dinner in Milan (Italy), I was 27 miles from home, it was 1AM, smartphones and relative GPS were not yet a thing, and I was in an area I wouldn't know how to describe to any friend to ask for rescue. The car was driving fine for like 4/5 mins, then when the oil started to heat up, the tachometer was going to 0 and the car was stopping. Wait 20 minutes to let it cool down and it restarted for other 5 minutes... Driving home would have taken the whole night or more... I managed to find an Alfa Romeo official car service (not a dealer) and I slept in my car in front of it that night.
The morning after I got the guys there going for an espresso in a bar next the workshop, I intercepted them and explained I slept in my car and the situation, they looked at me like 😳😳😳 and then in 30 mins fixed the problem (in guarantee) and I was able, after 3 shots of coffee, to finally drive home :D
Had the same issue luckily mine was dying slowly and intermittently so I drove it home then changed the sensor. It’s so cheap it’s easier just to buy a new one instead of wasting time to troubleshoot.
Tip of the day, don't use a ball end hex driver unless you need to, when they are usually difficult to remove (impossible) and you have to replace the pin.
Agreed
I'm pretty sure the resistance rise you saw with heating is completely normal. There's a pretty long coil of wire in there and with heat there is bound to be resistance rise. This will of course reduce the signal amplitude a bit but I'm sure the cable insulation falling apart is a bigger problem.
Strange that the motor crapped out when the G28 died - the ECU is supposed to fall back on the G40 (or G300/G301) camshaft position sensor until you shut the ignition off. Then you're screwed until the sensor cools down, usually 😛 I have gotten to the point of just replacing the G28 on all my cars every 5 years or so, when the cable just starts to get stiff. A $25 sensor every 5 years is just $5 a year - beats paying for a tow!
Whaaaaaa ...... Charles you don’t carry your scan tool with you wherever you go!? 🤣 Good tip about rocking the sensor out of its spot. I wonder how many technicians have snapped / broken the sensor just by removing it.
Great video!
High engine heat can make some sensors go haywire. The VR6 engines 12/24valve has high operating temperature, even hotter with forced induction.
a friends Mk6 TDI had the post turbo O2 sensor go and they kept driving 600 miles, prior to the phase 2 fix, Dealer refused due to check engine light , and they would be putting a new filter on anyways,, But wanted $5K to fix before the fix. The regen wouldnt work and the DPF plugged past the 50% so cant be done, took a sensor from hell change, to a clean of dpf to a forced regen to get it cleared, So fix stuff like o2's FAST ,
I wonder if wrapping it in some sort of heat shielding would help it survive in that location longer.
I live in Russia and we have a cold winter now, the temperature reaches -24. I have a Passat B5 with a 1.8 turbo engine. Recently, a disaster happened, the oil radiator gasket burst and all the oil leaked out. I didn't notice it and drove a few miles.
As a result, my engine started pounding. The gasket costs $3, engine repair will cost $1400
VAG!
First ever time i see metal underbelly on a US car. It's common in Russia because of (no) roads, but this is something new
How do I get my 2010 Passat to have VAGCOM in the friggan cluster like that?!
facebook.com/aRdTechnik
VW life. I'm more concerned when the check engine light isn't on. It might indicate a catastrophic ECM failure.
after 6 years with my 3.6 it finally let me down. replaced sensor and she's back. had to hammer a torx bit onto the 5mm Allen cause rust and 300,000km +
Had an 02 Jetta with the Vr6 and had the same issue.
Ngl. In my experience this is the most common no start problem for VRs. Atleast the 3 that I own😂
I remember this happening on my 2001 Golf 1.8T. Now days I'm glad to have OBDeleven since it's super portable.
Every vdub I have owned has had a basic scan tool or vcds in the glove box 😂
I remember my crank position sensor going out on my 2.8 and shortly after my clutch master cylinder . Took me a whole two lunches at work to replace the parts and bleed the clutch line out . Good times !!! 😂 Cheers! #wookieforlife
Electrical resistance goes up with heat anyways. Good vid.
When you mentioned not needing to do an engine rebuild Cleaning on the sensor....does that mean my stage 3 brake clean is overkill????
1:40 OBDEleven in my glove box at all times :D
I believe that's pronounced OBD two (II)
@@chrisstoddard1144 nope. It’s a brand name for a VW/Audi scan tool
Same. I actually have the old and new gen in case I need a quick scan on iOS or live data via Android.
0:25 Similar scenario happened to my at a drive through in my A3 8p (Sprint Blue Peal), except my injector took a dump on me....So embarrassing, pushing it out of the Dell Taco drive through, lol!
great video
That is exactly what happened to my car (2004 VW Jetta GLI VR6 2.8L 24v) this week. After 10 minutes or so, the car shuts off (regardless of it is idle or driving). No engine oil pressure light showing. I scanned it and it returned a P0322 "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal". The funny thing is if you let it cool off for a while, the car starts back on for the next 10 minutes or so. I wonder which part no. and brand I need for the crankshaft position sensor? I have seen ones that have the cable heat shield on it and without it as well.
Those G28 sensors ....
My B5 S4 won't start after shopping some groceries, after disengaging and reconnecting the batterie the fault was gone for roughly a week. Then it died again on the Autobahn (car was getting slower with full throttle and after pressing the clutch it shut down), this time I needed a tow truck.
Ordered a new Bosch sensor online, swaped it and the car wasn't starting. Long story short, after 3 weeks I checked the crank sensor once more and it was broken from factory (no rpm readings with VCDS) ... with the old sensor the enging started right now.
My 2001 Audi TT has had its share of repairs needed but it has never left me stranded on the side of the road.
You make some great videos....but as a guy that wants to become a first time VW owner they really make me second guess that idea.
Because of this sensor, 3 different mechanics told me that my Golf mk4 1.6 needed a new throttle body.
Sometimes if u let engine cool down a hour ore so it will start again until it gets some heat and die again. I have seen that in some cases on vw/audi on failing g28.
Why is that so?
Had almost same problem as this, instead it was camshaft sensor which was under timing belt on my Alfa Romeo, part cost was like 10-15$, but that work that was needed to be done was bulshit. And also car was running ok, just check engine light came on, but when I turned it off, it quit and would not start.
As much as I like your channel, I can't believe that this is the first time your VW broke down. I have owned 2 VWs and 1 Audi. All three broke down on a consistent basis, even when new! Clearly I was an AAA member. I love the look of these cars but I gave up owning them. Last one was 2004. Good for you that you are so lucky.
Don't agree. Run a fleet of VW'S in a family business. All over 200 000 km , minimum problems compared to our Japanese cars. Maybe American VW's are assembled in Mexico :)
Yes it's a VW, it does break down. However fixing is cheaper and faster than with GM, and in general they only break down when stressed from towing all the GM vehicles to the shop.
Reminds me, should really replace that knock sensor, the connector itself fell apart, so really should replace it instead of the wire holding the pieces together.
Best old VAG mod: Carputer with VCDS/cable permanently connected.
Quote of the day never want to go into the hole without some lubricant, this says it all LOL
Those damn sensors! Had some issues with one of mine and it's annoying as hell!
Had to replace mine on my slammed 20th ae gti last week. No Jack or stands. Had to do it in the ground. I had to remove the front bumper to be able to blindly reach it. Worst part was the clip.
Seems like VW’s have a lot of “common” issues.
Did you just figure that one out lol
@@boostedeuros2116 Why don't VW bother to design and make them better? :)
Name a car without a common issue.
That's what I love. The issues are consistent and if its not on already on a recall list, I'd rather run into a problem that been solved online a thousand times. Easier for the DIY'rs.
@@phox0999 toyota?
I have a 2012 vw beetle and my daughter hah a 2010 beetle. I always have a scan tool in my car 🤭.
Looking to get vagcom for my personal use but struggling to understand ross-tech website and what's works for what. And some of the other options out their, I really just want it to diag my car and code it for future parts that's it. What do you recommend?!
My favourite ever car I ever owned was my 1984 Rabbit GTI. My second ever car, bought in 1998. I still want one. They're all fucked with age, rust, or mods. I'm a mechanic now, couple years under the belt so not noob, not expert. Also, Anyway, my question is why do you love VW so much? My time in the trade has soured them for me and I'm wondering what it is that you see that I don't. What is the spark?
I'm not talking about the american cars as competitors here, but there's many other choices
you're lucky you were not stuck in those super tight curvy drive-thrus like we have downtown.