The WW2 jeeps DEADLY secret....AKA I Try Not Crash my jeep!
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- Опубліковано 29 жов 2020
- It's small it's green and its deadly, is there anyway to fight this design flaw? Lets test and find out!
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/ greendot319
Check out how I came to be driving this Willys MB round the countryside like this!:
• Willys MB build - Авто та транспорт
Two suggestions of varying work: 1)snubbers to limit vertical axle movement to just shy of bellcrank interference. 2)Make radius rods and install to greatly limit axle housing rotation. Possibly re-arch the front springs or beef them up to increase clearance, while at the same time adding resistance to axle housing rotation. Think about rear wheel drive hot rods, helping eliminate wheel hop and "ladder tracks" under very hard acceleration. Back in the sixties, with the advent of muscle cars, we tried everything from "slapper bars" and ladder bars, to spring leaf strapping, and offset shock mounting.
Front tires that are completely locked up lose the ability to steer, a car will continue in the direction that it was going before the brakes locked. I learned that driving on ice a long time ago, when driving on ice, when you hit the brakes even the slightest bit, the front wheels almost instantly lock up (without anti lock brakes), front wheels lock up you have no control with steering, let off the brakes and steering returns. There are lots of ways to kill yourself with an old jeep, they roll over easily and no roll bar or seat belts, also in a bad front end crash the steering shaft tends to go right through the drivers chest, a common problem in older cars.
When I was learning to drive, my dad always told me to never have that tight of a grip on the steering wheel
Apparently when he was younger they were off roading and had a 4x4 with a manual steering box catch a rock and the steering wheel spun back with force and broke his friends hand
They will do that. Never grip a Jeep wheel with your thumbs on the inside if you are off the pavement.
Don't know if you know this ? But did you know why in documentary you see a pole sticking out in front of the jeep ?? It because when the allies where driving in country roads the germans would tie piano wire across the road about neck high ,by the time they realise there was something wrong it was to late they got decapitated !! By the way it's a very nice jeep you got !
Got a Mahindra CJ as my everydays car, which is basically a 1:1 replica if the Willy's CJ3B with a 64 hp diesel engine. It goes everywhere when braking hard, except straight ahead. Most advanced safety feature is the roll bar.
Original Willys and Kaiser CJ3Bs never had roll bars.
For those of us that grew up with cars that had drum breaks, there is no surprise. Most accidents during drag racing/street racing were caused during the breaking part. Drum breaks pull and generally to the left. Once disc breaks were used the fishtailing during braking disappeared.
I had an old '66 VW Bus that used to pull to one side under hard braking, but not always the same side. On top of this it had some play in the steering, making for an exciting driving experience, particularly in a gusting crosswind.
Ford Motor Company referred to this phenomenon as recession steering. It is caused by the relationship between the front suspension and the steering. One of their models suffered from this in the late 1990's early 2000's I think it may have been the F-150.
Don't forget to lean to the right before getting in a head on collision so you don't get the steering coulomb through your chest!
Don't forget to bail out before hitting anything!
@@Greendot319 Bingo.
Joking aside, jumping clear saved my bacon in a rollover once with a CJ2A.
Great knowledge, as always!
Many thanks fer sharin with us, mate!
The brake that locks would not be as hot.
Just wat I was thinking
Yup. The shoes aren't producing friction or heat at that point. Any heat is in scrubbing the rubber off the tire....
It's a good thing you've practiced this to see what happens. You should also try these different "hand grips" on dry pavement too. Thanks for this video!
Good analyse of the brakes problem!! Perfect!
You are too kind!
Mount a camera that shows what the bell crank does
Your left front wheel locks up first because it's closer to the master cylinder. Your Jeep doesn't have proportioning valves to control break pressure.
HARLEY2006DAVIDSON bullshit , same pressure , a proportioning valve works between the front and rear axle , not between sides
All single hydraulic brake systems have equal pressure in all the lines at the wheel cylinder. They all work on a form of mechanical advantage. As long as there is no air in the system, a hydraulic line that's 6 inches Long in parallel with a hydraulic line that's 10 feet long have the same PSI at the end of the line. Back in the old days the lines used to swell, which would account for pressure differences amongst lengths. Nowadays with new brake lines not so much, especially if you have steel braided brake lines.
In order for the length of line to be the main difference; hydraulic fluid would have to be compressible, this would account for the different pressure rates over length of hydraulic line. But that is a physical impossibility. Hydraulic fluid is uncompressible. This is what makes hydraulics work in the first place. This is also why hydrolocking an engine will break Pistons and Rods. Your engine is trying to compress a liquid which is impossible so something else has to give way.
The old school hot rodders did that trick not because of pressure differences in lengths of line due to hydraulic pressure, but mainly due to stretch of line material.
Now I went and just looked at the diagram of this Jeeps breaking system and there's not that big of a difference between left and right wheel in terms of line length. The left wheel locking up would probably be due to the steering geometry that he's mentioning, axle wrap, more weight on the driver side, and possibly unequal wear on shoes and drum. It is possible that left and right aren't adjusted perfectly symmetrical as well, although it seems like this guy is a competent mechanic so that would not be my first go to.
Knowing the handling characteristics of your car is always important. Hard break, turn right to counteract.
Your conclusion makes sense logically.
Less sliding friction on the drum when it locks up. The right is heating up due to shoe sliding against the drum.
A good way to put it. I thought the same, but you said it better than I could have.
It's exactly it.
Simple mechanics. The left drum locking up is not being heated by friction, because drum and shoe are fixed together. The right one dragging is generating more heat, because the shoe is scraping the inside of the drum.
Same problem with my M201..
And yes,always fight against !!
Very good démonstration 👍
Merci
A locked brake drum doesn't turn and fight friction (generating heat) - a brake drum hard breaking but still turning is generating heat while fighting friction. So skidding tire brake drum = cooler.
Those of us who learnt to drive in the 70s, developed reflexes for when the steering pulled to one side when breaking, you naturally compensated. Steering pulled for all sorts of reasons, split mu surfaces, uneven wear in front drums, we weren't cossetted with advanced steering geometries and ABS.
Interesting. Thank you. I like all your gear and the jacket. Pretty neat.
ha, cheers
I agree. The left pull under braking is the fault of the poor steering geometry as you showed. Now you have a few miles on the brakes, time to do a “proper” adjustment. Large shoe to the front, L/R are mirror images. Eccentrics adjust the clearance at the wheel cylinder end of the shoes. What most people miss is the “Anchor Pin” adjustment, on the fixed bottom end of the shoes. The deal is to use a feeler gauge between the shoe and drum, top, middle, bottom of each friction surface. Modern vehicles have a free, unfixed connection at the bottom (the single star wheeled adjuster). It takes a little patience at first, but is really not that complicated. Don’t forget to have someone in the car to gently apply the brake when you hand spin the wheel, then check your adjustments before you move to the next wheel. About a 5 beer job, 2 during, 3 after😉
Good synopsis.
Check those wheel bearings for wear and their nuts for proper adjustment while you're there.
Drum brakes always need fine adjustments to keep them perfect , this vehicle probably doesn't get used much or has oil on the linings, or even rusty drums
Jeep owners like to jokingly gripe about their Jeeps funny flaws, but those aren't nothin' compared to that one!
This is why they attached the bell crank to the frame on the newer Jeeps like my '56 CJ5
A very common retrofit on modified 'flatties', as well.
Saginaw steering boxes are often seen welded to frame rails of old Ford and Willys 'Jeeps' in the U.S. for good reason. Not only does it solve the axle wrap issue, but the ross boxes really weren't very good.
For restoration buffs, learn to drive the originals with full knowledge of their flaws and idiosyncrasies as this bloke is doing. Learn not to kill it and it won't kill you.
you can hold it straight because of the bumpsteer springs on the left side the first jeeps had identical leafsprings left and right
Very, very useful video especially for our next generation jeep drivers (this video is now mandatory material for all my children). Hope you have time for a follow-up on how to effectively counter steer the left pull. 👍💪
Happy to see it helps!
I think the pulling sharply to the left is a safety feature, designed to eject the passengers before the jeep smashes into whatever it was that caused the driver to stand on the brakes.
Uncle Sam addressed the issue with a track bar mounted under the drivers leaf spring
Great video again Matt. Wonder what the effect must have been before they added the extra leaf springs at the left front side.
Deadly!
Yelp. The early Jeeps would drift to the left for the reasons you stated. They try to solve the problem by adding a extra spring . It was call a torque reaction spring. Mine doesn't have it. So I have to be ready when stopping . Just remember folks they're old Military vehicles. Not new BMW'S. Great video.
I run a little more toe-in on all mine. 1/8”-3/16”. It seemed to help stopping. Of course each time I drive there’s a different brake grabbing and takes a while for it to sort out. Added toe also helps with death wobble issues.
For anyone that wants to learn more: All single hydraulic brake systems have equal pressure in all the lines at the wheel cylinder. They all work on a form of mechanical advantage. As long as there is no air in the system, a hydraulic line that's 6 inches Long in parallel with a hydraulic line that's 10 feet long have the same PSI at the end of the line. Back in the old days the lines used to swell, which would account for pressure differences amongst lengths. Nowadays with new brake lines not so much, especially if you have steel braided brake lines.
In order for the length of line to be the main difference; hydraulic fluid would have to be compressible, this would account for the different pressure rates over length of hydraulic line. But that is a physical impossibility. Hydraulic fluid is uncompressible. This is what makes hydraulics work in the first place. This is also why hydrolocking an engine will break Pistons and Rods. Your engine is trying to compress a liquid which is impossible so something else has to give way.
The old school hot rodders would equalize the lines not because of pressure differences in lengths of line, but mainly due to stretch of line material.
Now I just looked at the diagram of this Jeeps breaking system and there's not that big of a difference between left and right wheel in terms of line length. The left wheel locking up would probably be due to the steering geometry that he's mentioning, axle wrap, more weight on the driver side, and possibly unequal wear on shoes and drum. It is possible that left and right aren't adjusted perfectly symmetrical as well, although it seems like this guy is a competent mechanic so that would not be my first go to.
Please do a video on the British origin of the Jeep; by way of Willys, Bantam and Austin. It really is the most improbable of automobiles.
That is what the torque reaction spring on the front spring stack is designed for.
I think it still is the brakes, your left wheel locks, so there is no friction in that brake drum, because it doesn’t rotate of course. The right doesn’t lock, so there actually does is (more) friction, which is why your right wheel brakedrum is warmer... thus, your left works “harder”, because it can lock a wheel. The right side cannot, so that side isn’t as effective. You can actually check the percentage of this difference between the brakes at a garage, then you know for sure...
It's also a shorter line from the master cylinder (under driver's left foot) to the left front wheel than to the right - it makes a difference.
A common early 'rodders' retrofit was a late 50s/early 60s GMC truck master cylinder mounted to the firewall, equal length lines to the front wheels and a Saginaw steering box welded to the left frame rail.
This is it Exactly!
Went to go comment this but I'm glad I read yours before I did.
@@-oiiio-3993 All single hydraulic brake systems have equal pressure in all the lines at the wheel cylinder. They all work on a form of mechanical advantage. As long as there is no air in the system, a hydraulic line that's 6 inches Long in parallel with a hydraulic line that's 10 feet long have the same PSI at the end of the line. Back in the old days the lines used to swell, which would account for pressure differences amongst lengths. Nowadays with new brake lines not so much, especially if you have steel braided brake lines.
In order for the length of line to be the main difference; hydraulic fluid would have to be compressible, this would account for the different pressure rates over length of hydraulic line. But that is a physical impossibility. Hydraulic fluid is uncompressible. This is what makes hydraulics work in the first place. This is also why hydrolocking an engine will break Pistons and Rods. Your engine is trying to compress a liquid which is impossible so something else has to give way.
The old school hot rodders did that trick not because of pressure differences in lengths of line due to hydraulic pressure, but mainly due to stretch of line material.
Now I went and just looked at the diagram of this Jeeps breaking system and there's not that big of a difference between left and right wheel in terms of line length. The left wheel locking up would probably be due to the steering geometry that he's mentioning, axle wrap, more weight on the driver side, and possibly unequal wear on shoes and drum. It is possible that left and right aren't adjusted perfectly symmetrical as well, although it seems like this guy is a competent mechanic so that would not be my first go to.
Nice restoration.
Its hard to tell from the video but it appears that your torque reaction spring is in place and should eliminate the axle roll. I think the problem is maladjusted brakes. Use a feeler gauge to set the brake shoe gap and make sure no air in the lines.
At this time you should probably replace brakes and drums so they would wear evenly. Because now if he adjusts it they would still be at different wear patterns.
This is why the design changed and the bell crank was attached below the radiator, and no longer attached to the axle after the war.
Bingo.
Good understanding of the geometry issue!
Shoe adjustment is key
@@timblack6422 Yes.
That and check for leaks.
Very interesting, maximum braking occurs just at the moment before they lock-up and is it at that point the car veers to the left? So, to avoid trying to fight it and potentially loosing control, cadence braking (which is what a modern ABS would be doing) would be the way to maintain a straight line under emergency braking situations. I guess with modern trickery on cars that most of us drive mean we don't use the techniques of old. Good little experiement and very good to get to know your car better! Thanks for sharing!
Great video and testing. I agree going into a ditch would be bad, but buzzing past a column of on coming vehicles would be a disaster If you had to stop. Youd be pan caked head on by a duece and a half, tank or, half track.
Does your jeep have a wide flat bar bolted underneath the Left side leaf spring? My 42 MB has one I believe its to control axle roll.
I have had some jeeps do it and others dont, i found different rerasons, one was worn spring bushings allowing the left lurch to shimmy the axle to the left, another was loose drag link allowing the left pull to be extended , another was asbestos brakes on one side and repro brake shoes on the other , asbestos is way better for stopping than the repro material, another was uneven tyre pressures soft tyre stops better than a harder pumped tyre , loads of different reasons but it will always tend to go left a tiny amount even when all these things have been checked other than if you fit original or high friction linings on the right and repro linings on the left, that will cure it for sure
Nice video!!!!
I solved the problem buy bolting a GM saginaw steering box to the driver's side fram in front of the grill and adding a one piece tie rod between the wheels and a one piece rod from the right side knuckle to the steering box. I used a GM tilt steering wheel and installed a pillow bloock for the new steering rod from the end of the steering wheel shaft and also installed a universal to allow the bend in the angle from the box. All this got rid of the wiggly wooblies on washboard roads too.
Commonly done conversions, for good reason.
To a restorer, however, it would be sacrilege.
Interesting video. Land Rovers are well known for the brakes snatching. I had anticipated you would cover how so many drivers were impailed by the steering column, which I remember reading about.
I think the being impaled is taken as read!
Great Jeep and uniform. Easy resolution: You'll just have to drive on the 'right' side. You're an 'American Soldier' driving a left hand drive military vehicle, so those (fellow) British drivers will know you're a 'crazy Yank' and are just going to have to get out of YOUR way. All jokes aside, thanks for the important video. Onward, 'Jeepers!'
That only works if the oncoming car is an Austin Seven.
If you watch old movies with jeeps in them, They love to come racing up and stop, all seem to dart to one side. need to watch some more to see what direction the shoot off too.
The right brake is hotter because it's not locking up its creating friction and warming up while the left one is just locking up
Fixit Quick, There is a fix for front axle there should be an extra anti windup spring on the left side to stop axle twisting .
when you turn to the left the weight transfers so greater chance of skidding the lighter side
That’s the bunny. Weight coming off the near side front and loading up offside front. Bad design!
My grandfather was given an International tractor in WW2 in a scheme called 'Lend Lease'. That had the same three spoke steering wheel as the Jeep, maybe the same steering box.
There were a lot of common looking parts on WW2 American vehicles, some of it was the same but there were often subtle differences ;) Keep watching and subscribed ;)
Early 'Jeeps had a very simple (and not very good) Ross worm gear steering box.
My M201 exhibits everything you demonstrated. I have gotten use to the steering fight when I have to break hard. It is even worse for me, because the French added a brake servo to provide extra that stopping power. Regular left front lock up.
Great video!
Deadly flaw for sure!
But no bones compared to the Vietnam era Jeeps. That independent suspension with no Max straps was unnecessarily negligent on Uncle Sam's part and killed many troops. My grandfather told me the story of him losing four friends in Vietnam because their Jeep rolled over after going over a crest in a hill. The wheels folded under, Jeep flipped, crushed 2, and tossed 2. Extremely sad.
The hotter the brakes the more fading you get. That means it makes sense that the brake that doesn't lock up is hotter. It could be because it had to work harder during the first tests where the jeep veered to the left. The wheel on the outside of the curve hat to work harder because the wheel travelled a greater distance.
Hi also the australian army did a moderation to the front steering and added a small gusset plate to the steering it can be seen behind bumperbar without opening botnet it has to be welded onto the steering new parts have not been modernised each battion was sent the gusset plate to get their workshop to weld in place in ww2
What about fitting torque reaction springs? It is mentioned in the manual and should reduce axle roll?
They were fitted from '42 jeeps onwards or retrofitted.
They help that issue with the civilan Jeep's buy attached the bell crank to the cross member
Correct put new bushings in many of them over the years. Still think the one he drives has a brake issue. The front axle shouldn't move enough on the springs to do that.
Mine has the torque reacton spring and I really don't notice a problem at all but maybe I counter it unconsciously. I really think is is no big deal.
Ralph Nader would have lost the war for us....
In early cj2as and later they fixed this problem by mounting the bell crank to the frame instead of the axel.
The break that is hottest should be less effective to a point, it should be less likely to lock. The proportioning valve (I wonder if those Jeep’s had one!) should help that. Maybe that is why they became common. Nice video, great keep keep them running…
Cross member but has one problem in rough road that ends in wobbling as the tie rods dance up down and geometry tells us the effective lenght varies to wobble not experienced in bell crank fixed directly to differential .
Just a thought. If the right one didnt lock then the shoes would rub and create more heat. The left brake locked up so didnt create the friction to heat up 🤔 just a thought. Cracking video
Very true, ta
My Dad passed is driving test in one of these in 1957 and he said compared to Austins ,Morris etc they where far better great acceleration & did at least brake!!
I agree and I haven't driven any 50s British cars ;)
LOL Bump steer. Try owning a straight front axle four wheel drive with a seven inch lift kit. People would freak out when the steering wheel jerked around when hitting a dump in the road
Now I realised what I could never understand through out my driving experience .And now I also realise the steering box is not that strong or mechanical advantage is not ss those 1972 big box.Brake is the best as Lockheed is making it.Thanks you very much.All queries solved.
Great looking Jeep and you looked like you stepped out of a photo. Do you have the machine gun mount or did only some keeps get them?
Of course you have to turn the other way you have to in effect lengthen the drag link
They moved that bell crank to the frame on later models as per 1962 cj5
The brakes may not be adjusted the same, I believe they had all 4 drum breaks. I was a wheel vech. mechanic in the military.
Brakes, and you're right.
Good content, questionable choice of signage in the background.
My willy also do that . rear left drum pulls it in left direction
I like the Keep Out sign. Wonder if it's effective.
Apparently not
You need to remember the bump steer and compression steer while it was notably on the Jeep (I have heard about it, though never driven one) was common on trucks and many cars of the time. So any of those young guys that grew up on a farm or handled trucks would have been ready for it though perhaps not as much as they got. Even 1980 solid axel chevy trucks would do this though to a lesser degree, as well as modern jeeps. All solid front axels will, as you point out one end is moving relative and one is not, steering must be done. You just counter steer, It can catch someone off guard who is not familiar, or in a war zone. Or if you have only driven modern vehicles with IFS you may be totally unfamiliar. I don’t know if it is “deadly” but defiantly could encourage you to say hi to the ditch. At least it is a left hand side arm. Other wise in your country it would tend to shove you into oncoming traffic. Not sure which is better.
Reminds me of a 63 Dodge i had a long time ago.
They like to keep us on our toes
Yeah I found that out lastnight..... Hit those breaks hard.. and I ended up going left...
Any chance one of the rear brakes is grabbing harder than the other? Maybe next time check the rear brake temps. Great video.
Cheers, its an interesting idea but my rears are very well balanced, I don't think they are making much difference here, what we are seeing is the classic jeep left hand dip! Steer away!
Now, did you get the fix? A addon stabilizer arm for the left hand side.
I know jeep brakes are much better than any other cars even during 70s and 80s in my country.😎👍
Can you do a overview on how all the accessories work that you have. Patricianly the gun mount.
I will have a video with my new Rifle bracket at some point ;)
I thought you were going to talk about that spear in the center of the steering wheel....
At 00:38 - "The problem is that the brakes do work, and they work too well..."
Are you sure you're talking about Jeeps?
ha ha, you know what I mean!
I find it doesn't do the side spin aslong as u don't push the clutch too early, mine does 90 degrees turn to the left when I push clutch and break
This seems like a safety feature if you drive on the left hand side, death feature if u drive on the right
I own a 1958 S1 landrover. It has a chassis mounted steering relay. If you brake hard and don’t steer, it will will mess you up :o) Seriously though, so will trucks, especially articulated ones on country lanes. Great vid though, fascinating. And a lovely jeep ^-^
Cheers, I would love to drive an early mark landrover one day and compare them!
@@Greendot319 I’m in Staffordshire and I think you are well down south, but, good news, there are so many early 80” landrovers about you should be able to get a drive if you go on the SORC forum :o)
i love the Jacket,,,
cheers, original M43
I just backed the left brake shoes off a touch. Mine brakes straight every time
Later in WWII, Willys made a design change to prevent the front axle from rolling, and this problem was solved
This was very interesting. I've never experienced the pull with my 3A, but it does have a different steering set-up that the MB and GPW. I do occasionally get a rear brake dragging on a sandy surface though. I 'm pretty sure that is because my rear wheel cylinders are slightly bigger than the OE cylinders that are recommended. Are you sure it isn't your rear wheels that are dragging? BTW, I tried to make a one-time donation on your patreon link and it will only let me make it by the month. Is there a way around this?
Hi Tom, I think Patreon is a subscription thing, its one of those things that you leave and then when you go through your finances go 'what the hell is this' and remove it! ;) Jokes aside its a $ and you can get rid of when you feel like it or not, its how youtube has progressed now and a common feature of most channels, cheers
You won't in a 3a, the bellcrank was moved up onto the cross member to prevent this from happening.
I think it needs a sway bar,like wrangler yj.
Are you sure it's the front brakes locking and not the rears?
I suspect the loose grip saved a lot of broken thumbs,
Great
For the love of all that is Holy: Brakes are what you use to stop a car so you dont break yourself. You can break your brakes, but if you do you aren't stopping.
I have a 1948 CJ2a Willys Jeep.....the brakes are terrible! I rebuilt them, new shoes, new brake slave cylinders, new master cylinder......they leaked soaking the new pads. Brand new, and they leaked. I looked into a disc brake conversion and found out that there is a residual check valve inside the master cylinder that is supposed to keep 8-15 pounds of pressure in the system at all times to keep the cups sealed on drum brakes.....a lot of companies are not putting that valve in anymore. Disc brakes don't need the pressure valve. Brakes and steering have always been a weak point in the old jeeps. Really, they are death traps......they are also classic cars you can take to the mountains! Love hate relationship for sure!
If you're not concerned with originality, go with the front disc brake conversion.
You won't be sorry.
If you still have the Ross steering box, you may want to lose that, as well.
Nice willys you have there , Mine has a worn bellcrank that needs replacing , If i go above 45 mph it wants to start to shimmy , And when they shimmy they tend to do it very badly.
Get that Bell crank out, you'll have all the time in the world to put it off it it does for you, remember if the bellcrank is worn the whole steering gear will need looking at, a pain I know but cheaper than the alternative!
@@Greendot319 Yes i know , I'm going to do all the steering this winter , I usually don't go mutch over 30 with it anyways.
I had a 1951 Willys that did that. The bell crank is the biggest culprit, but check the steering box and tie rod ends too. Mine shook so bad it would dang near buck you off!
Beware the 'death wobble'.
It is a very real phenomenon. If (when) it occurs, let off the gas and ride it out, don't fight it hard, do not brake.
Early 'Jeeps' had a truly horrible steering system. From the Ross worm gear to the spindly little connecting rods, awkward geometry and multiple ball joints, all must be in proper order as well as proper adjustment of wheel bearings to eliminate (most) wobble.
@@Greendot319 Well stated.
Now I finally understand exactly what my dad meant when he warned me before I joined the Swiss army as a driver. He said pay attention the Willys Jeep when you have to brake: Those vehicles are really dangerous on the road. That was 40 years ago and I was happy that I did not have to drive the old Willys Jeep often. You also felt miserably cold in the harsh Swiss mountain winters.
Thanks for the comment, that's a thing about old vehicles like these, they are fantastic and great for nostalgia but when you're really in the army and its -10 and raining and you have to drive 120 miles its a bit of a different thing, beats walking though! Keep watching and subscribed ;)
@@Greendot319 I used to drive a Berna truck of 1952. A great and reliable vehicle. No power steering!! Only windows you could remove and put them behind. And of course no synchronisation. They said some drivers broke their hands when they did not pay attention and the gearstick struck when the gear was not put well.
This truck was so loud that you could not talk to the guy beside you. The engine was right between the two seats. And I tried to use the horn in a tunnel. The engine was so incredibly loud that you could not hear anything but engine noise and vibrations. That thing was great offroad but slow as hell. I always said: If you joined the Paris Dakkar race with this monster you would be the last to arrive but you would finish the race for sure.
Is this the type of truck?
ua-cam.com/video/mkh8K-KiDxQ/v-deo.html
The man has to wear ear defenders when driving it!
@@Greendot319 The cabin is identical, but it was a thing with huge offroad tires:
www.google.com/search?q=berna+4x4&rlz=1C1CHBD_deCH874CH874&sxsrf=ALeKk027bLXf_NYifURqd6anCWJ5n-4MdQ:1605994627921&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=o0K1sE5RCPRRVM%252CL7leb0awN7wB2M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQhTKRV0QkjB9t3GojAoJlSODAQu
@@Greendot319 Sorry: This is the right link: militaerfahrzeuge.ch/detail_11_1_470_464.html