I have a little trick with the distributor installation. Get C1 on TDC and then line up the distributor with C1. Then either bump the starter or turn the motor over by hand while holding the distributor in place until it drops on the the oil pump shaft. So much easier. Saves a lot of time.
I was having a hard time trying to get my 350 to run assuming that the cylinders were 1234 on drivers side and 5678 on passenger side. I know it was bone headed but thanks to your video where you showed 1357 on driver and 2468 on passenger side was like getting hit with a sledge hammer, ran out to the garage, switched my wires and at 0545 in the morning. The ole Chevrolet came to life. Thanks
Honestly. This is the most helpful video I've come across. I've watched so many that don't explain it properly and assume you have a degree. I've liked and subscribed which I rarely do. All you dudes throwing in your 2 cents about how much you know,......shut up. This man just saved me money I don't have to give
With some practice you can drop the distributor into the pump in any position that works and from there by lifting and lowering the distributor slightly you can "walk" the rotor to align with your number one plug wire OR ANY other firing position on the distributor AND maintain the proper alignment of dist. shaft and oil pump. Doesn't take a minute to get the dist. set to where you need it ;)
My engine sits for long periods of time, a year or more. So I ground off the teeth on an old distributor and use it to prime the engine with oil. Hook a drill up to the distributor and spin it until oil comes out of all the push rods/valve rockers. This tells you oil has been delivered to the pistons, cam, etc.
Great comment, and I always prime a new engine prior to first start just to make sure all surfaces have lubrication. I lubricate all surfaces during a rebuild, but there is always a chance a spot could be missed. Thanks for the comment!
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel I'm just now getting ready to start that engine. It's been sitting for a few years. I had to pull the heads because a little water got into one cylinder but all is well. Rebuilt the 800DP, the distributor (Accel BEI), everything. In a week or two I'll have a video. It was in my 1959 Corvette but I sold it some years ago. (Dad bought it in 1966 I bought it in 1982 and pulled the 283 w/ 2x4's and put in a 350 with 500+hp.)
I realize that this is an older video. For those who are doing a SBC distributor R&R, and who want to get the spark lead close enough for initial fire-up, stop the crankshaft at 6 to 8 degrees BTDC, not at ZERO. Once installed, and once the electrical is connected, place a spark plug cable directly into the ignition coil. Install a known-to-be-good spark plug into the cable. With ignition ON, rotate the distributor CCW until you see one spark event. Do this several time to get a good feel for it. When the spark event occurs, stop and gently lock down the distributor. Now the engine will see approx 6 to 8 degrees BASE advance for the initial fire-up. Once fired-up, adjust the dynamic BASE advance, and then check the progressive and TA.
with no spark plugs in i put my finger over one and wait for the air push, then line up zero on the ballencer, then tern the oil pump to mach the distributor in no one position, so this is the way we have always done it, good old chevy vid :)
with the left valve cover off, bump the engine around until you see the #1 intake valve open, then close. The timing mark will be approaching TDC when that happens.
I can work the oil pump shaft around by dropping and re dropping the distributor, each drop moves it about a tooth. Alot easier than trying to line up that shaft with a screwdriver.
i took my distributor out, 1990/91 Corvette, for space to change the oil pressure sensor behind, not realising the timing may jump. If i keep putting it in many times again and try starting, should it not get at some point be back to where it should be ? I cant find the timing mark at the front of the engine....
First off, the only way it could jump timing would be if the timing gear on the cam is shot (all the nylon broke off). Then you would need to replace the timing set, which should be done anyway. I'm guessing you set the set the distributer in one tooth off. You need to find your timing marks on the balancer, & timing tab, & then follow my video. Good luck!
I have good luck with your procedure. With both valves shut at tdc, and a long screwdriver to move the slot around, it usually works the first time. I have noticed the zero mark on the harmonic balancer moves a little over time, but not much.
This is a thing. We had a G van that I could not get timed. Figured out the balancer pulley had slipped on the dampener and timing mark was waaaay off. I wonder how many people struggle because of this or worse yet, assume there is something wrong with the engine and junk it.
Hey! So, I have a '74 K20. I got it running, but it didn't have much power when I stepped on the gas. I thought I needed to adjust the timing and tweak the carburetor. I started with the HEI distributor, set it to top dead center, dropped the distributor in, and put the spark plug wires in the right order. But it's still not running right, even though I know there's spark and it's getting gas. It cranks but won't fire, and now the carb is spitting gas out the top.
If you followed this video, 0 on the timing tab, number one cylinder is at TDC, and ran the plug wires as I stated, it will either be correct, or 180 degrees off, if it's backfiring out tge carb, chances are it's 180 degrees off, that would mean #1 cylinder is firing with the intake valve open. As far as low power goes, was the timing chain and gears ever replaced, if not take the distributer cap off, rotate the engine by hand clockwise until the rotor starts to turn, put a mark at 0 on the harmonic balancer, then rotate the engine again by hand counterclockwise until the rotor turns again, stop, and measure the distance, using the timing tab like a ruler, you can estimate how many degrees the engine turned with the rotor moving. It should only be a few degrees maximum. GM put nylon coated cam gears on most of their engines back in the day, as parts of the nylon broke off the timing went all to hell, one moment advanced to far, and the next to far retarded. Good luck!
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Thank you. I think I have it figured out now. The truck is a stock 350 4 barrel. And it was leaking gas out where my choke is. So i’m looking to replace it. Do you think i should rebuild it or buy a whole new carb? And what would you recommend i get
@lincolnbump5328 Carter afb, or Edelbrock they are basically the same design, that's what I have on my truck in these videos. But if you have the original Q-jet which is a spread bore, you would need an adapter to install that carb, or a new intake. If you have $$$ to spend I would go to Edelbrock electronic fuel injection, but that's about $2500.
it's easier to set distributor point vacume advance at or between 2&4cyl and line up point of rotor directly at number 1 it won't drop all the way but will be meshed with cam gear which is main concern the rotate motor by hand and the distributor will drop down on oil pump shaft and be good to go not trying to be know all just trying to help save time and hassle with fighting the oil pump shaft
There is a 5/8" head bolt that holds the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft, put a breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet with a four inch extension and 5/8" socket and turn it clockwise. Hold the extension to keep it straight on the bolt. Thanks for watching.
or you could just rotate the crank shaft with a wrench until the distributor falls in place, then turn the crank shaft until the rotor is lined up with the line, then take the distributor out, put the harmonic balancer at 0* and drop the distributor in.... its much easier than your method.
Instead of pulling the distributor out and turning the oil pump drive and putting the distributor back in several times you can turn the engine over by hand until the distributor drops in and then turn the engine back to top dead center again.
@ig2750 I turn the crank forward until the distributor drops in and turn the engine backward past zero a little and then turn the crank forward to line up the timing marks. If you wanted to keep turning, you would have to turn the crank 2 revolutions to put the rotor in the correct location for #1 TDC compression stroke.
Jake Wilkin, that works also as long as your wires reach, and you don't care where they are located on the distributer. Thanks for watching, and the comment.
VERY basic explanation of this procedure. While any tower on cap can be #1, Chevrolet puts it immediately past the point dwell window, aiming just to the right of the rear of the carburetor or at the #2 cylinder. This video puts it at what they say is #7 on the cap.
I wanted it to be basic and used most information from Chevrolet manuals. I also wanted the tower thst was originally used by Chevrolet so wires would fit correctly. Thanks for your comment.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay yeah, man. Certainly informative. Just an observation that the manufacturer puts no 1 on the cap aiming at no 2 cylinder in every assembly manual ever but it will work on any position. All the best.
Ya, thats the easy way to do it! No finagling with a long screwdriver and trying to lean over an engine bay... Drop the dist in where it points to number 1, at TDC, then if its not sitting flush, either spin it with a breaker bar or bump the motor over until it drops down. The firing order will be correct, because the gears on the dist and cam are meshed, even though its not sitting flush on the intake yet.
You forgot to put the harmonic balancer at o degrees line up with number one to get it to start yes 1 and the rest of the number after on in your diagram depends on the engine
Confirm both number 1 valves are closed, and rotate engine by hand with stiff wire in #1 spark plug hole to feel piston come up to TDC. Just as it reaches TDC, you will notice it stays stationary for a short time relative to cam timing. Go back and forth turning the crank by hand until you are satisfied that you are at the mid point of piston travel between up and down. Static timing refers to timing relationships of components regardless of timing mark location. Cam and distributor gears wear, harmonic balancers outer rings shift, distributor gasket thickness varies, etc. Again, #1 at TDC (centered by feel), both #1 valves closed, timing mark at least close, and distributor positioned as described in video. Note that static timing may require an adjustable timing mark pointer.
Bro just turn the engine over with a wrench until the distributor falls into place once you have the distributor dropped in partially it will turn with the engine. Keeping it lined up exactly to where you lined it up
Colten Dixon, I wanted it on the exact tooth, not one prior or one after. When making videos there are many who are critical, I want it right the first time, and not by luck. Thanks for watching.
Colten Dixon, no struggle Mr Dixon. Old school vacuum advance distributers only have about 20 degrees of rotation (if you want the vacuum advance diaphram located as it was from the factory). If the distributor gear is not fully engaged it is imposible to know for a fact that the diaphram will be in that exact location. This would nean you get to start over as there may not be enough room to get enough rotation on the diaphram to get the timing correct. The diaphram hits the valve cover on one side and the coil on the other. Thanks for your input.
U dont have to line up the oil pump. The distributor will be timed up with the cam regardless. Does not matter where oil pump is turned. It is a waste of time to try line it up.
i must the easyest truck of all to work on 53 dodge m37------ first -------- dist. shaft will drop dowm 1 way yoy can put in wrong so with it in put rotor knob on slowly turn rotor till it drops dwn -----i always take all plug out to easy rotate eng wyth fan blade so rotatetill 4 deg befor TDC the rotor will point to ward #6 plug which is about 1 oclock position looking down at dist if it off a little rotate dist base till i lines upon # 6 tighten dist base bolt now spin eng watch flash on 4 degree before tdc thats it install plugs crank it purrs like a kitten, idles fine rev up good simple some folks confuse valve timming with spark timming --- two different operations valve timming is set a factory with timming chain do not move it it controls the valves only
I got my timing all done like it's supposed to be on my 77 Chevy truck an when I put it to 8 degrees timing an it doesn't want to run very well but once I'd advance the distributor it wants to run perfect and he can't even see the timing marks there towards the bottom of the engine can u please help me figure out what's going on with it I tried a lot an I even put it in the shop an lost money cuz they miscommunicated what I asked them to do I asked them to put it on top dead center and change the distributor where it should be pointing to number one cylinder but the lady didn't tell the mechanic that and all she did was retard the timing back to eight degrees, and now it doesn't want to run well please help me
You don’t have to do the oil pump shaft at all. Place distributor in at number one At that point the distro is meshed with the cam gear . Then you simply move the harmonic balancer and the distro will just drop down on the oil shaft. So simple. You tube Channel “my vintage iron 7512” has a great video on the same way I’m explaining Much easier
Is it trying to start? Check for spark? Is there fuel, move the throttle with your hand while watching down the carb, is there fuel as you move the throttle? Let me know?
@H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel .....I had a real mechanic ( not me lol) look at it and I was “off by one tooth” somehow....anyways, it’s starting now! Thx!
thomas avery, thanks for watching and the comment. Yes very easy to drop something in an intake port and have it go right into the cylinder if that valve happens to be open.
Watch out turning that oil pump screw counter clockwise, it'll back out and come out. It threads in the oil pump. If it comes out, no oil delivery and I'll say it would probably end up somewhere it shouldn't.
Yeah, you don't have to move the oil pump rod, total waste of time. Drop the distributor in rotor facing #1 cylinder. Turn the engine over and the distributor will fall in when its lined up with the rod.
So you have no spark in your 73 Jeep? This is right on the years where they changed from Points to electronic ignition. Not being sure what your Jeep has I will give you both options: Points could be the condenser, points, coil, or a grounded circuit, start out by with looking for bare wires grounded out, then test the coil there are many good videos search for "test a coil", if the coils good, look to see if there are dirty or corroded points, replace points and set to factory specifications. Electronic ignition could be the spark module, pickup, or a grounded circuit or coil. This is a little harder to diagnose, again look for bare wires grounded out, examine the pickup for damage, if no damage, test the coil as stated above, then replace the module if you found nothing else. More often than not it will be a bad module.
Put the damn crank at zero if it doesn't fall hold the button down a little and turn it backwards while turning the crank backwards a little and it will fall right in. Back up a little more than back to zero and check your button. It's not that difficult.
This is Wrong . It doesn't mater what engine it is . You simply find out the timing value . For example if the engine is set as 12 DEG before top dead centre . You stop the engine on number 1 compression stroke at 12 deg before top dead centre and then line the dizzy up on the pen mark you named number 1. Then there is no requirement for any further timing until the next service.
I have a little trick with the distributor installation. Get C1 on TDC and then line up the distributor with C1. Then either bump the starter or turn the motor over by hand while holding the distributor in place until it drops on the the oil pump shaft. So much easier. Saves a lot of time.
I was having a hard time trying to get my 350 to run assuming that the cylinders were 1234 on drivers side and 5678 on passenger side. I know it was bone headed but thanks to your video where you showed 1357 on driver and 2468 on passenger side was like getting hit with a sledge hammer, ran out to the garage, switched my wires and at 0545 in the morning. The ole Chevrolet came to life. Thanks
Yeah always remember one side is even and one side is odd numbers
Honestly. This is the most helpful video I've come across. I've watched so many that don't explain it properly and assume you have a degree.
I've liked and subscribed which I rarely do.
All you dudes throwing in your 2 cents about how much you know,......shut up.
This man just saved me money I don't have to give
thanks for the great details and extra nuggets. For folks that haven't done a dist. R & R ,your details will make it a no brainer
Thank you Nomadman! Appreciate the comment.
Does the order change if it has the hei on it?
With some practice you can drop the distributor into the pump in any position that works and from there by lifting and lowering the distributor slightly you can "walk" the rotor to align with your number one plug wire OR ANY other firing position on the distributor AND maintain the proper alignment of dist. shaft and oil pump. Doesn't take a minute to get the dist. set to where you need it ;)
but how you know where it needs to be ?
My engine sits for long periods of time, a year or more. So I ground off the teeth on an old distributor and use it to prime the engine with oil. Hook a drill up to the distributor and spin it until oil comes out of all the push rods/valve rockers. This tells you oil has been delivered to the pistons, cam, etc.
Great comment, and I always prime a new engine prior to first start just to make sure all surfaces have lubrication. I lubricate all surfaces during a rebuild, but there is always a chance a spot could be missed. Thanks for the comment!
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel
I'm just now getting ready to start that engine. It's been sitting for a few years. I had to pull the heads because a little water got into one cylinder but all is well. Rebuilt the 800DP, the distributor (Accel BEI), everything. In a week or two I'll have a video. It was in my 1959 Corvette but I sold it some years ago. (Dad bought it in 1966 I bought it in 1982 and pulled the 283 w/ 2x4's and put in a 350 with 500+hp.)
I love the old vette's, wish I could afford one. The lines in those years were so classic. Good luck and enjoy that car.
I realize that this is an older video.
For those who are doing a SBC distributor R&R, and who want to get the spark lead close enough for initial fire-up, stop the crankshaft at 6 to 8 degrees BTDC, not at ZERO.
Once installed, and once the electrical is connected, place a spark plug cable directly into the ignition coil.
Install a known-to-be-good spark plug into the cable.
With ignition ON, rotate the distributor CCW until you see one spark event.
Do this several time to get a good feel for it.
When the spark event occurs, stop and gently lock down the distributor.
Now the engine will see approx 6 to 8 degrees BASE advance for the initial fire-up.
Once fired-up, adjust the dynamic BASE advance, and then check the progressive and TA.
with no spark plugs in i put my finger over one and wait for the air push, then line up zero on the ballencer, then tern the oil pump to mach the distributor in no one position, so this is the way we have always done it, good old chevy vid :)
Yes sir that works just fine! Thanks for the comment!
with the left valve cover off, bump the engine around until you see the #1 intake valve open, then close. The timing mark will be approaching TDC when that happens.
@@beentheredonethat3444 fill number one cylinder with water, turn it over till some come out, your on the comp stroke . :)
I can work the oil pump shaft around by dropping and re dropping the distributor, each drop moves it about a tooth. Alot easier than trying to line up that shaft with a screwdriver.
Yes, that works also.
Yes...."best way"}¡
but how you know when its in the correct position?
i took my distributor out, 1990/91 Corvette, for space to change the oil pressure sensor behind, not realising the timing may jump. If i keep putting it in many times again and try starting, should it not get at some point be back to where it should be ? I cant find the timing mark at the front of the engine....
First off, the only way it could jump timing would be if the timing gear on the cam is shot (all the nylon broke off). Then you would need to replace the timing set, which should be done anyway. I'm guessing you set the set the distributer in one tooth off. You need to find your timing marks on the balancer, & timing tab, & then follow my video. Good luck!
Thanks for the information!
I have good luck with your procedure. With both valves shut at tdc, and a long screwdriver to move the slot around, it usually works the first time. I have noticed the zero mark on the harmonic balancer moves a little over time, but not much.
Could it be that your balancer is slipping? May be time for a new one.
This is a thing. We had a G van that I could not get timed. Figured out the balancer pulley had slipped on the dampener and timing mark was waaaay off. I wonder how many people struggle because of this or worse yet, assume there is something wrong with the engine and junk it.
Hey! So, I have a '74 K20. I got it running, but it didn't have much power when I stepped on the gas. I thought I needed to adjust the timing and tweak the carburetor. I started with the HEI distributor, set it to top dead center, dropped the distributor in, and put the spark plug wires in the right order. But it's still not running right, even though I know there's spark and it's getting gas. It cranks but won't fire, and now the carb is spitting gas out the top.
If you followed this video, 0 on the timing tab, number one cylinder is at TDC, and ran the plug wires as I stated, it will either be correct, or 180 degrees off, if it's backfiring out tge carb, chances are it's 180 degrees off, that would mean #1 cylinder is firing with the intake valve open. As far as low power goes, was the timing chain and gears ever replaced, if not take the distributer cap off, rotate the engine by hand clockwise until the rotor starts to turn, put a mark at 0 on the harmonic balancer, then rotate the engine again by hand counterclockwise until the rotor turns again, stop, and measure the distance, using the timing tab like a ruler, you can estimate how many degrees the engine turned with the rotor moving. It should only be a few degrees maximum. GM put nylon coated cam gears on most of their engines back in the day, as parts of the nylon broke off the timing went all to hell, one moment advanced to far, and the next to far retarded. Good luck!
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Thank you. I think I have it figured out now. The truck is a stock 350 4 barrel. And it was leaking gas out where my choke is. So i’m looking to replace it. Do you think i should rebuild it or buy a whole new carb? And what would you recommend i get
@lincolnbump5328 Carter afb, or Edelbrock they are basically the same design, that's what I have on my truck in these videos. But if you have the original Q-jet which is a spread bore, you would need an adapter to install that carb, or a new intake. If you have $$$ to spend I would go to Edelbrock electronic fuel injection, but that's about $2500.
I have the Chevy c10 V8 engine but the distributor is not in.i want to fit in New one but I don't know where the marks on the engine should points
it's easier to set distributor point vacume advance at or between 2&4cyl and line up point of rotor directly at number 1 it won't drop all the way but will be meshed with cam gear which is main concern the rotate motor by hand and the distributor will drop down on oil pump shaft and be good to go not trying to be know all just trying to help save time and hassle with fighting the oil pump shaft
How do you get the harmonic balancer aligned with the zero on the timing tab?
There is a 5/8" head bolt that holds the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft, put a breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet with a four inch extension and 5/8" socket and turn it clockwise. Hold the extension to keep it straight on the bolt. Thanks for watching.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay on just use the alternator pully nut, it's easier to get to?
or you could just rotate the crank shaft with a wrench until the distributor falls in place, then turn the crank shaft until the rotor is lined up with the line, then take the distributor out, put the harmonic balancer at 0* and drop the distributor in.... its much easier than your method.
Sounds logical, saves crawling in the engine compartment I’ll give it a try next time. Thanks for the comment.
amen
Yes it works like a dream! Thats How I was taught
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay ... Your way is the best ,just make sure it lines up or do it again.
@@goodboyringo9716 thank you! I always appreciate thoughtful comments, I always try to do my best.
i have a question i have a 1980 camaro but my distributor firing starts at the 5 on the picture you have. why is that?
Instead of pulling the distributor out and turning the oil pump drive and putting the distributor back in several times you can turn the engine over by hand until the distributor drops in and then turn the engine back to top dead center again.
so does that mean u turn the crank counte-clockwise or go all the way back around?
@ig2750 I turn the crank forward until the distributor drops in and turn the engine backward past zero a little and then turn the crank forward to line up the timing marks. If you wanted to keep turning, you would have to turn the crank 2 revolutions to put the rotor in the correct location for #1 TDC compression stroke.
Or put 1 at TDC .
Drop distributor in. Then where rotor points is number 1 wire goes.
Jake Wilkin, that works also as long as your wires reach, and you don't care where they are located on the distributer. Thanks for watching, and the comment.
Good point . Thank you for the video
I use a gutted old distributor mark the top of the shaft drop it in turn the shaft till its in #1 pull it out and install your distributor
Good idea Thomas, thanks for the tip!
Video a big help, thank you!
Your welcome John!
Great video
Enjoyed the background music
What’s the name of the song?
VERY basic explanation of this procedure. While any tower on cap can be #1, Chevrolet puts it immediately past the point dwell window, aiming just to the right of the rear of the carburetor or at the #2 cylinder. This video puts it at what they say is #7 on the cap.
I wanted it to be basic and used most information from Chevrolet manuals. I also wanted the tower thst was originally used by Chevrolet so wires would fit correctly. Thanks for your comment.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay yeah, man. Certainly informative. Just an observation that the manufacturer puts no 1 on the cap aiming at no 2 cylinder in every assembly manual ever but it will work on any position. All the best.
@@bigblocklawyer Thanks!!!
Not trying to be negative but put it n and slowly turn it over or crank it to drop it into the oilpump
Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
Ya, thats the easy way to do it! No finagling with a long screwdriver and trying to lean over an engine bay...
Drop the dist in where it points to number 1, at TDC, then if its not sitting flush, either spin it with a breaker bar or bump the motor over until it drops down. The firing order will be correct, because the gears on the dist and cam are meshed, even though its not sitting flush on the intake yet.
You forgot to put the harmonic balancer at o degrees line up with number one to get it to start yes 1 and the rest of the number after on in your diagram depends on the engine
Thanks for you input, and for watching I boss.
Confirm both number 1 valves are closed, and rotate engine by hand with stiff wire in #1 spark plug hole to feel piston come up to TDC. Just as it reaches TDC, you will notice it stays stationary for a short time relative to cam timing. Go back and forth turning the crank by hand until you are satisfied that you are at the mid point of piston travel between up and down. Static timing refers to timing relationships of components regardless of timing mark location. Cam and distributor gears wear, harmonic balancers outer rings shift, distributor gasket thickness varies, etc. Again, #1 at TDC (centered by feel), both #1 valves closed, timing mark at least close, and distributor positioned as described in video. Note that static timing may require an adjustable timing mark pointer.
If it's at zero mate dist to cam and line turn till it drops your dunn dis turns with cam stays in time!
Bro just turn the engine over with a wrench until the distributor falls into place once you have the distributor dropped in partially it will turn with the engine. Keeping it lined up exactly to where you lined it up
Colten Dixon, I wanted it on the exact tooth, not one prior or one after. When making videos there are many who are critical, I want it right the first time, and not by luck. Thanks for watching.
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel the way i stated gets it perfectly in place. And keeps it "perfectly" in place
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel im not criticizing you. Im saving people from struggling with a simple task like you did.
Colten Dixon, no struggle Mr Dixon. Old school vacuum advance distributers only have about 20 degrees of rotation (if you want the vacuum advance diaphram located as it was from the factory). If the distributor gear is not fully engaged it is imposible to know for a fact that the diaphram will be in that exact location. This would nean you get to start over as there may not be enough room to get enough rotation on the diaphram to get the timing correct. The diaphram hits the valve cover on one side and the coil on the other. Thanks for your input.
U dont have to line up the oil pump. The distributor will be timed up with the cam regardless. Does not matter where oil pump is turned. It is a waste of time to try line it up.
Thanks for your input Timothy.
i must the easyest truck of all to work on 53 dodge m37------ first -------- dist. shaft will drop dowm 1 way yoy can put in wrong so with it in put rotor knob on slowly turn rotor till it drops dwn -----i always take all plug out to easy rotate eng wyth fan blade so rotatetill 4 deg befor TDC the rotor will point to ward #6 plug which is about 1 oclock position looking down at dist if it off a little rotate dist base till i lines upon # 6 tighten dist base bolt now spin eng watch flash on 4 degree before tdc thats it install plugs crank it purrs like a kitten, idles fine rev up good simple some folks confuse valve timming with spark timming --- two different operations valve timming is set a factory with timming chain do not move it it controls the valves only
I got my timing all done like it's supposed to be on my 77 Chevy truck an when I put it to 8 degrees timing an it doesn't want to run very well but once I'd advance the distributor it wants to run perfect and he can't even see the timing marks there towards the bottom of the engine can u please help me figure out what's going on with it I tried a lot an I even put it in the shop an lost money cuz they miscommunicated what I asked them to do I asked them to put it on top dead center and change the distributor where it should be pointing to number one cylinder but the lady didn't tell the mechanic that and all she did was retard the timing back to eight degrees, and now it doesn't want to run well please help me
Pull the distributor out. Spin it like a roulette wheel and drop er back in
Doin it the hard way
Thanks for watching!
You don’t have to do the oil pump shaft at all.
Place distributor in at number one
At that point the distro is meshed with the cam gear . Then you simply move the harmonic balancer and the distro will just drop down on the oil shaft. So simple. You tube Channel “my vintage iron 7512” has a great video on the same way I’m explaining Much easier
Did this by the letter and my car won’t start!!😱😂😂....have no idea wtf is going on now🤔...1966 283 impala, original motor😤
Is it trying to start? Check for spark? Is there fuel, move the throttle with your hand while watching down the carb, is there fuel as you move the throttle? Let me know?
@H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel .....I had a real mechanic ( not me lol) look at it and I was “off by one tooth” somehow....anyways, it’s starting now! Thx!
@@crazygixxerman Great to hear, now you can "enjoy your ride".
@@crazygixxerman I did the same thing on my first head gasket job, don't feel bad!!
stuff some rag's in them intake port's.
thomas avery, thanks for watching and the comment. Yes very easy to drop something in an intake port and have it go right into the cylinder if that valve happens to be open.
You don’t need to use the screw driver method to move the oil shaft.
Thanks for your input & comment.
Watch out turning that oil pump screw counter clockwise, it'll back out and come out. It threads in the oil pump.
If it comes out, no oil delivery and I'll say it would probably end up somewhere it shouldn't.
Yeah, you don't have to move the oil pump rod, total waste of time. Drop the distributor in rotor facing #1 cylinder. Turn the engine over and the distributor will fall in when its lined up with the rod.
Thanks for the comment.
no tira chispa mis cables del distribuidor es un súper jeep 1973
So you have no spark in your 73 Jeep? This is right on the years where they changed from Points to electronic ignition. Not being sure what your Jeep has I will give you both options: Points could be the condenser, points, coil, or a grounded circuit, start out by with looking for bare wires grounded out, then test the coil there are many good videos search for "test a coil", if the coils good, look to see if there are dirty or corroded points, replace points and set to factory specifications. Electronic ignition could be the spark module, pickup, or a grounded circuit or coil. This is a little harder to diagnose, again look for bare wires grounded out, examine the pickup for damage, if no damage, test the coil as stated above, then replace the module if you found nothing else. More often than not it will be a bad module.
just be shure number 1 is at tdc
Put the damn crank at zero if it doesn't fall hold the button down a little and turn it backwards while turning the crank backwards a little and it will fall right in. Back up a little more than back to zero and check your button. It's not that difficult.
This is Wrong . It doesn't mater what engine it is . You simply find out the timing value . For example if the engine is set as 12 DEG before top dead centre . You stop the engine on number 1 compression stroke at 12 deg before top dead centre and then line the dizzy up on the pen mark you named number 1. Then there is no requirement for any further timing until the next service.
Thanks for watching.
Wow its mashed turn the crank it will drop lol this is not what i waned to see