Probably not by total coincidence, I've used a Uniroller and a set of Ciba drums for about 35 years to do color prints and color roll film.. There were several alternative makes back in the day, but this combo of equipment seemed best to me. The auto reverse failed on my Uniroller many years ago. I no longer remember what the source of the problem was, but I remember opening the unit and fixing the problem very easily. Your alternative of manually flipping the drum every 5 seconds on the roller will prove a non-started. Good processing.
Another great episode Spencer! I found the parts with the tank & the changing tent very interesting. For 120 film the paterson spools are more user friendly but the limited space in the changing bag is a real problem, especially if one is working in hot environmental.
I find the tent to be a great asset as it keeps itself off the table. I have enough trouble I don't need any help! Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks again for watching!
Awesome videos, I've been doing this since the early 80's but I love watching what others do and sometimes it's the closest thing to talking shop talk with other film photographers. BUT...... I have two words that are not ILSO-FOL Ilfo-SOL & Ilfo-TOL. ;) have a great day/
Michael Vincent Thanks for watching! I love the results I get with 8x10 film, detail is amazing. It’s always great to discuss ideas with other film photographers!
Good morning Spencer, please,I want to start developing 8x10 sheet, in Italy it is very difficult to find tanks, I saw a Durst Codrum 304 tank on Ebay, do you know this tank and know if I can develop 8x10 (FP4 ilford) with it. Thanks for the attention Decio 
Thanks for reaching out. I’m not familiar with that particular tank. However, any tank that is light tight and allows you to change the chemicals as you go would work. A popular tank is also Jobo. You may be able to find one of those. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing this video and the future ones! We need one of those tents in our class! We have a changing bag that looks like a plastic sweater, and it gets just as hot inside. When I've used it to get rolls of 120 film onto the developing tank spools it is incredibly frustrating because it drops onto your hands and gets in the way, everything getting sweaty as the temperature rises.
I know what you mean. I would look into the "pup" version which would be plenty big enough for 120. I like how they fold up and can be taken anywhere. They are pricer than the changing bags, but worth the investment in my opinion. I know B&H does offer discounts to teachers and students. Thanks!
Someone told you to not use D-76 because it has sodium sulfite in it? You need a better source of technical advice. Virtually all B&W developers ((other than the staining variety) use sodium sulfite to prevent the developing agent(s) from oxidizing about 5 minutes after first mixed. It is true that using a relatively high concentration of sodium sulfite in your working developer solution will cause some of the developed image silver to be dissolved. This has the effect of grain reduction, but in some degree that dissolved silver will be redeposited between the grains, which tends to reduce apparent sharpness in some situations. This why Kodak recommends using D-76 in a 1:2 dilution with water to make the working solution if maximum sharpness is sought. In 8x10 large format photography, such considerations are pointless (as was the advice you got), because the image will never be enlarged enough to show any such differences.
Randall Stewart I was flamed by the Pyrocat crowd. So I gave it a try. After a year of trying different ways of using Pyro, I’m back to D76. It my not be perfect for everyone (D76), but it has worked well for me. Thanks!
Pyro was "in" for all formats about 25 years ago and remains popular in large format circles. It genuinely provides that delicate separation of highlights and upper mid-tones you have mentioned from your experience. I gave it a serious look at the time, but I passed on it because it has some very poisonous components. Since I compound all my own stuff, I didn't like the risk/reward ratio. (The pre-mixed solutions sold now in kits minimize that risk.)
Craig Sheaks is a great guy! He helped me a lot too, when I was looking for lenses for my 4x5. Good information Spencer, thanks for the help.
Probably not by total coincidence, I've used a Uniroller and a set of Ciba drums for about 35 years to do color prints and color roll film.. There were several alternative makes back in the day, but this combo of equipment seemed best to me. The auto reverse failed on my Uniroller many years ago. I no longer remember what the source of the problem was, but I remember opening the unit and fixing the problem very easily. Your alternative of manually flipping the drum every 5 seconds on the roller will prove a non-started. Good processing.
Another great episode Spencer! I found the parts with the tank & the changing tent very interesting. For 120 film the paterson spools are more user friendly but the limited space in the changing bag is a real problem, especially if one is working in hot environmental.
I find the tent to be a great asset as it keeps itself off the table. I have enough trouble I don't need any help! Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks again for watching!
Awesome videos, I've been doing this since the early 80's but I love watching what others do and sometimes it's the closest thing to talking shop talk with other film photographers. BUT...... I have two words that are not ILSO-FOL Ilfo-SOL & Ilfo-TOL. ;) have a great day/
Michael Vincent Thanks for watching! I love the results I get with 8x10 film, detail is amazing. It’s always great to discuss ideas with other film photographers!
Good morning Spencer,
please,I want to start developing 8x10 sheet, in Italy it is very difficult to find tanks, I saw a Durst Codrum 304 tank on Ebay, do you know this tank and know if I can develop 8x10 (FP4 ilford) with it. Thanks for the attention
Decio

Thanks for reaching out. I’m not familiar with that particular tank. However, any tank that is light tight and allows you to change the chemicals as you go would work. A popular tank is also Jobo. You may be able to find one of those. Thanks!
@@SpencerPullenPhotography Thank you very much Spencer,interesting video always!!!!!
Come back to make more videos
I hope to soon. Thanks!
The air conditioning systems here tend to expel distilled water which my photography teacher tends to get hold of from the building janitors.
That's a great tip! Never thought of that. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this video and the future ones!
We need one of those tents in our class! We have a changing bag that looks like a plastic sweater, and it gets just as hot inside. When I've used it to get rolls of 120 film onto the developing tank spools it is incredibly frustrating because it drops onto your hands and gets in the way, everything getting sweaty as the temperature rises.
I know what you mean. I would look into the "pup" version which would be plenty big enough for 120. I like how they fold up and can be taken anywhere. They are pricer than the changing bags, but worth the investment in my opinion. I know B&H does offer discounts to teachers and students. Thanks!
Someone told you to not use D-76 because it has sodium sulfite in it? You need a better source of technical advice. Virtually all B&W developers ((other than the staining variety) use sodium sulfite to prevent the developing agent(s) from oxidizing about 5 minutes after first mixed. It is true that using a relatively high concentration of sodium sulfite in your working developer solution will cause some of the developed image silver to be dissolved. This has the effect of grain reduction, but in some degree that dissolved silver will be redeposited between the grains, which tends to reduce apparent sharpness in some situations. This why Kodak recommends using D-76 in a 1:2 dilution with water to make the working solution if maximum sharpness is sought. In 8x10 large format photography, such considerations are pointless (as was the advice you got), because the image will never be enlarged enough to show any such differences.
Randall Stewart I was flamed by the Pyrocat crowd. So I gave it a try. After a year of trying different ways of using Pyro, I’m back to D76. It my not be perfect for everyone (D76), but it has worked well for me. Thanks!
Pyro was "in" for all formats about 25 years ago and remains popular in large format circles. It genuinely provides that delicate separation of highlights and upper mid-tones you have mentioned from your experience. I gave it a serious look at the time, but I passed on it because it has some very poisonous components. Since I compound all my own stuff, I didn't like the risk/reward ratio. (The pre-mixed solutions sold now in kits minimize that risk.)
You don't need a darkroom; use a room that's dark.
Exactly! Thanks for watching!