I just stumbled across your video, and it is impressive watching you guys do everything by hand. As a mechanic for a rail and tie gang, I would stress that when you guys are using the winch to pull your rail around curves please stand on the side of the rail in the direction you are pulling the rail. If something such as the cable on the winch brakes if there's enough stored energy in that rail it will bounce back to straight and take out some legs. You never know where that stored energy is going to go.
Great video! I love it when fellow railroad enthusiasts "talk shop." These are the comraderies celebrated among men and women putting in a good days work - getting things DONE.
Great process you have and you do a nice job explaining it to others. Love to see the progress, laying track is a lot of work but it sure is satisfying when you take that 1st ride on it :)
As always, great video! It's clear how much effort goes into laying tracks, especially on curves. Interesting to see how you handle such challenging tasks despite the obstacles. Thanks for the detailed explanations, I've subscribed to your new videos and am eagerly looking forward to the next one!
Hello from Kingsville Ontario, found your channel a few months ago and really enjoy it. Wish I was closer would love to volunteer I’m caught up on all past episodes and look for to your new content. Continued success with the railroad.
Welcome Rob! We're glad you're following along. Wow, you covered a lot of content! Thanks. I wish you were closer too. A little private RR like ours can always use another volunteer. Maybe you can make it down for a visit sometime.
I suggest going forward in tracklaying that you add 3/8" or 1 lock washer thickness to the gauge in these very sharp curves to make it easier for your equipment to traverse the curve. This is pretty standard procedure in laying track, standard or narrow gauge.
Oh so true Your statement is also true in 9 ,15,18 inch gauge track... Also make sure the cars trucks are lose with springs so each AXLE can move which way ...How hard you work "perfectly " ,Yes it's true but Small tracks needs imperfection to cut down on derailment. On our 9 in gauge railway WE had a very picky guy try to show us how you need to lay and spike ties..."WELL ,HE SAY A 9 IN GAUGE RAILWAYS HAS "9INS BETWEEN RAILS..........WELL EVERY CURVE WHEN HE WAS DONE OUR TRAIN WOULD DERAIL.....WE FELT SORRY FOR THE GUY ,HE DID WORK ENCREDIBLE HARD......WE WAITED UNTIL HE LEFT.......AND WE RELAID THE TRACK......ADDING 1/8 IN TO STRAIGHT AWAYS AND 3 /16"ON CURVES.......IT WAS FUNNY HE CAME AND RODE THE TRAIN AGAIN A YEAR LATER ..."HE TOLD EVERYONE HOW WONDERFUL HE WAS AT LAYING TRACK........PEOPLE BELIEVED HIM ......."THIS TIME WE KEPT QUIET ".........."BOB".........SOMETHING, ,,,,,"IS,WRONG"?😊😊😅😮
On the railroad we would build 40’ straight track panels already gauged with 115# to 136# rails minus the rail anchors for flexibility and drag it into position, making a joint at one end of the panel and pull the other end of the panel to create the curve, it’s quicker and safer.
Note, however, this process does not employ tie plates. Using tie plates is optional, for several reasons, on the smaller gauge structures. Plates at the 1:1 scale are forged to introduce a camber or tilt to the center of the track structure. Equipment mass, weight, stability and kinetic energy is significantly more and MUST be addressed. Imagine a track where the rail is 90 degrees to the rail/tie geometry. Now use screws (as in this process) to secure the rail/tie structure. Next, run a train over that 10 degree curve withoutlittle or no super elevation. Mass and volume multiples dictate design parameters, and it is not just like "O gauge is 1:48."
Wow! There is some spectacular railroading going on! Watch out for those bad dudes at Rock Ridge! Don't let Headly Lamar catch ya! Where's the Sheriffe? I subscribed and going to take my time watching the videos and reading the valuable and most interesting chatter in the comment section. (a few hours later...any chance you can give an introduction to your entire project? I love Part I and Part II. but an overview of what you are doing and your goals / levels of involvement including $$$. I am a novice/amateur Californian railroad fanatic and may come out there [but can't compete with the regular railfans.])
Thanks for following our channel and for the excellent advice about Rock Ridge and Headly Lamar. As far as an overview of the project, you're right. We do need to explain that better. There is a video about how we decided to build a railroad. As far as the money... it's all privately owned, just a hobby of the Dave and Alisa Feyereisen family. As far as the long-term plan... we don't really have one. We'll probably turn it into some type of club at some point. We're currently looking for information and advice on that topic.
Great video. if I can suggest one improvement it would be the camera. Try using a mobile phone, which has far better stabilisation than a normal camera. In places the video is extremely shaky. Just my two cents. Carry on the great work!.
Well, with all due respect... just like switches and turnouts and probably hundreds of other things... one man's "proper" is another man's "slang". We're not going to get too hung up with what's proper.
@EauGalleScenicRailway Yeah everyone has their own names dude. But as I said, it's a great build and interesting to listen to the narration explaining how you go about your build. Happy railroading!
I'm curious...with the ties just sitting on top of the roadbed with nothing apparently securing the ties down, how is it that the spring tension of the curved rails doesn't throw the ties out of radius for your overall curve?
Light rail like they are using doesn't have that much tension to it but in time, and a big temperature change, it with throw it out of alignment. They should have more ballast dumped to hold it in place before that happens.
It sounds like your older joint bars are angle bars. I know that for 25 pound rail they were once made but no longer are. Also the older bars both flat and angle were forged. A lot of new ones are a piece of bar stock with oval holes punches in. Than they are Bent so the edges are at approximately 13 degrees to match the angle of the rail base and underside of the head.
So far, we've purchased all our rail from Harmer Steel. Our original rail purchases were 30' long, 40lb (per yard) relay rail made in 1860 and used on Pike's Peak cog railway. That rail ran us $0.425 per pound (plus freight) for the first order and $0.50 per pound for the second order. We took all of that they had. Most recently we were unable to find any 40lb used rail so we were forced to purchase new Chinese rail at $0.79 per pound. The recent purchase came in 40' lengths which obviously require fewer rail plates saving money and letting us lay track faster. The ties are recycled used guardrail timbers. We purchase them from Andrew L Wade out of Madison WI at $9 each (delivered). So a single 40' section of track costs $842.66 for the rail, $180 for the ties, $20 for the road mat, $464 for ballast, $157.60 for screw spikes, and $54 for joint bars and hardware $54. This gives us a grand total of $1718.26 (per 40' section).
@@EauGalleScenicRailway Thank you for taking the time to provide that very interesting and detailed response. I retired from a company that manufactured products for the Class I railroads as well as many tram lines. I was once told that a mile of Class I track was about $1M per mile, and more if you have to install an electrified 3rd rail! As of a few years ago, I was told that the bare copper for a tram catenary was about eight thousand euros per km in Europe!
It's a great question. We would love to be using tie plates. If we had been able to find lots of them cheap, we might have used them. The main reason was the cost. We figured that for our approximately 2.5-mile plan, tie plates would have added somewhere around $100,000. An impossible number for us. Beyond that, we envisioned our rolling stock to be light weight. And the screw spikes seemed like they could adequately hold our rails in place. The screw spikes are working great for now, but we don't really have any idea how well they'll hold up long term. We're in a similar situation with our ties. They are recycled guard rail timbers, and we really don't know how long they'll hold up. We think they'll do well, but only time will truly tell.
@@EauGalleScenicRailway After tie plates, I'd like u to install superelevated curves along with concrete ties. BTW , Just to have the land to do your project, along with your passion is fucking impressive. Credit youtube's algorithms.
@@EauGalleScenicRailway To add to my previous comment.... you really, really need tie plates on longitudinal curves. You will thank yourself in about 10 years.
@@EauGalleScenicRailway OK, 10mph is typical yard speed. At first glance, it looked like you were building a mainline. When you're done with construction, be sure to reveal the final product.
You're right. If the budget was unlimited we'd certainly have them. We have a few hundred or so, so we could add them here or there if we need to. Our trains aren't that heavy so we think we can get by with just our screw spikes. Time will tell.
A far more complex operation than most of us might expect! The narration was very informative.
Thank you kindly!
The world makes way for the man who knows where he is going.
So true!
I just stumbled across your video, and it is impressive watching you guys do everything by hand. As a mechanic for a rail and tie gang, I would stress that when you guys are using the winch to pull your rail around curves please stand on the side of the rail in the direction you are pulling the rail. If something such as the cable on the winch brakes if there's enough stored energy in that rail it will bounce back to straight and take out some legs. You never know where that stored energy is going to go.
Thanks for the kind words and the heads up.
Great video! I love it when fellow railroad enthusiasts "talk shop." These are the comraderies celebrated among men and women putting in a good days work - getting things DONE.
Great explanation of the project.
Thank you!
Great process you have and you do a nice job explaining it to others. Love to see the progress, laying track is a lot of work but it sure is satisfying when you take that 1st ride on it :)
Thanks. It certainly is!
Enjoy video, great narration
Thank you kindly!
Another great video, very interesting.
Thanks
Great progress! Enjoy the cooler Fall weather, starting here already!
Thanks
As always, great video! It's clear how much effort goes into laying tracks, especially on curves. Interesting to see how you handle such challenging tasks despite the obstacles. Thanks for the detailed explanations, I've subscribed to your new videos and am eagerly looking forward to the next one!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for following along.
Nice railway video, Like !
Thank you very much!
Hello from Kingsville Ontario, found your channel a few months ago and really enjoy it. Wish I was closer would love to volunteer I’m caught up on all past episodes and look for to your new content. Continued success with the railroad.
Welcome Rob! We're glad you're following along. Wow, you covered a lot of content! Thanks. I wish you were closer too. A little private RR like ours can always use another volunteer. Maybe you can make it down for a visit sometime.
I suggest going forward in tracklaying that you add 3/8" or 1 lock washer thickness to the gauge in these very sharp curves to make it easier for your equipment to traverse the curve. This is pretty standard procedure in laying track, standard or narrow gauge.
Oh so true Your statement is also true in 9 ,15,18 inch gauge track... Also make sure the cars trucks are lose with springs so each AXLE can move which way ...How hard you work "perfectly " ,Yes it's true but Small tracks needs imperfection to cut down on derailment. On our 9 in gauge railway WE had a very picky guy try to show us how you need to lay and spike ties..."WELL ,HE SAY A 9 IN GAUGE RAILWAYS HAS "9INS BETWEEN RAILS..........WELL EVERY CURVE WHEN HE WAS DONE OUR TRAIN WOULD DERAIL.....WE FELT SORRY FOR THE GUY ,HE DID WORK ENCREDIBLE HARD......WE WAITED UNTIL HE LEFT.......AND WE RELAID THE TRACK......ADDING 1/8 IN TO STRAIGHT AWAYS AND 3 /16"ON CURVES.......IT WAS FUNNY HE CAME AND RODE THE TRAIN AGAIN A YEAR LATER ..."HE TOLD EVERYONE HOW WONDERFUL HE WAS AT LAYING TRACK........PEOPLE BELIEVED HIM ......."THIS TIME WE KEPT QUIET ".........."BOB".........SOMETHING, ,,,,,"IS,WRONG"?😊😊😅😮
@@bradfordthompson8326vow of silence and a smile
We sure wish we had springs. We do on the huge dirt cars, but nothing else on our RR has springs.
Very NICE! The last time I did that I used a Gandy and not the bolts. This looks a LOT faster.
It does!
Very interesting, thanks.
Just subscribed
Welcome
On the railroad we would build 40’ straight track panels already gauged with 115# to 136# rails minus the rail anchors for flexibility and drag it into position, making a joint at one end of the panel and pull the other end of the panel to create the curve, it’s quicker and safer.
Interesting...
Note, however, this process does not employ tie plates. Using tie plates is optional, for several reasons, on the smaller gauge structures. Plates at the 1:1 scale are forged to introduce a camber or tilt to the center of the track structure. Equipment mass, weight, stability and kinetic energy is significantly more and MUST be addressed. Imagine a track where the rail is 90 degrees to the rail/tie geometry. Now use screws (as in this process) to secure the rail/tie structure. Next, run a train over that 10 degree curve withoutlittle or no super elevation. Mass and volume multiples dictate design parameters, and it is not just like "O gauge is 1:48."
Wow! There is some spectacular railroading going on! Watch out for those bad dudes at Rock Ridge! Don't let Headly Lamar catch ya! Where's the Sheriffe? I subscribed and going to take my time watching the videos and reading the valuable and most interesting chatter in the comment section. (a few hours later...any chance you can give an introduction to your entire project? I love Part I and Part II. but an overview of what you are doing and your goals / levels of involvement including $$$. I am a novice/amateur Californian railroad fanatic and may come out there [but can't compete with the regular railfans.])
Thanks for following our channel and for the excellent advice about Rock Ridge and Headly Lamar.
As far as an overview of the project, you're right. We do need to explain that better. There is a video about how we decided to build a railroad. As far as the money... it's all privately owned, just a hobby of the Dave and Alisa Feyereisen family. As far as the long-term plan... we don't really have one. We'll probably turn it into some type of club at some point. We're currently looking for information and advice on that topic.
Great video. if I can suggest one improvement it would be the camera. Try using a mobile phone, which has far better stabilisation than a normal camera. In places the video is extremely shaky. Just my two cents. Carry on the great work!.
Ok. Thanks.
👍👍
Just for interest....the proper name of "joint bars" is actually fish plates.
Either way this is a great build
Well, with all due respect... just like switches and turnouts and probably hundreds of other things... one man's "proper" is another man's "slang". We're not going to get too hung up with what's proper.
@EauGalleScenicRailway Yeah everyone has their own names dude. But as I said, it's a great build and interesting to listen to the narration explaining how you go about your build. Happy railroading!
I thought curve rails were specially manufactured by a factory. Interesting video. Thanks!
Lots of people think that, or they think they must be bent before laying.
In the UK joint bars are known as fish-plates.
Very true.
New state-of-the-art "One-Stop" track laying / maintenance machines are available in the EU.
We might have to set up a Go Fund Me page to afford one of them hummers ;-)
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I'm curious...with the ties just sitting on top of the roadbed with nothing apparently securing the ties down, how is it that the spring tension of the curved rails doesn't throw the ties out of radius for your overall curve?
Light rail like they are using doesn't have that much tension to it but in time, and a big temperature change, it with throw it out of alignment. They should have more ballast dumped to hold it in place before that happens.
@@DamnYankee-rg8pg Ah, thanks for that response. I figured they were waiting to add ballast once a certain portion of the track was laid.
Yes. We'll be coming back to add top ballast later.@@KandWRailroader
My first thought!
Roadway next ro track good idea that way if you have derailment carrying passengers you can get rescue in
Agreed. We have it in some places, maybe around half. In the cases where we don't have it we typically have a service trail close by.
It sounds like your older joint bars are angle bars. I know that for 25 pound rail they were once made but no longer are. Also the older bars both flat and angle were forged. A lot of new ones are a piece of bar stock with oval holes punches in. Than they are Bent so the edges are at approximately 13 degrees to match the angle of the rail base and underside of the head.
Agreed.
Nice job! What is the cost for a single section of rail, as well as the cost of a tie? Are the ties pressure treated in any way?
So far, we've purchased all our rail from Harmer Steel. Our original rail purchases were 30' long, 40lb (per yard) relay rail made in 1860 and used on Pike's Peak cog railway. That rail ran us $0.425 per pound (plus freight) for the first order and $0.50 per pound for the second order. We took all of that they had. Most recently we were unable to find any 40lb used rail so we were forced to purchase new Chinese rail at $0.79 per pound. The recent purchase came in 40' lengths which obviously require fewer rail plates saving money and letting us lay track faster.
The ties are recycled used guardrail timbers. We purchase them from Andrew L Wade out of Madison WI at $9 each (delivered).
So a single 40' section of track costs $842.66 for the rail, $180 for the ties, $20 for the road mat, $464 for ballast, $157.60 for screw spikes, and $54 for joint bars and hardware $54. This gives us a grand total of $1718.26 (per 40' section).
@@EauGalleScenicRailway Thank you for taking the time to provide that very interesting and detailed response. I retired from a company that manufactured products for the Class I railroads as well as many tram lines. I was once told that a mile of Class I track was about $1M per mile, and more if you have to install an electrified 3rd rail! As of a few years ago, I was told that the bare copper for a tram catenary was about eight thousand euros per km in Europe!
Yeah, and the price for everything keeps going up. It's not a cheap hobby.
Be careful as you connect in Rock Ridge. That Headly Lamar is not to be trusted
Thanks for the warning. ;-)
quicksand
why no fish plates?
Yeah, I guess Fish Plates probably would be the more accurate term. For whatever reason we just call them "joint bars".
8:24: That's quite a gap in the video--What happened in between? ? ?
I just re-watched it, and didn't see any gap. I'm wondering if it might have been an Internet glitch somewhere.
No tie plates?
It's a great question. We would love to be using tie plates. If we had been able to find lots of them cheap, we might have used them. The main reason was the cost. We figured that for our approximately 2.5-mile plan, tie plates would have added somewhere around $100,000. An impossible number for us. Beyond that, we envisioned our rolling stock to be light weight. And the screw spikes seemed like they could adequately hold our rails in place. The screw spikes are working great for now, but we don't really have any idea how well they'll hold up long term. We're in a similar situation with our ties. They are recycled guard rail timbers, and we really don't know how long they'll hold up. We think they'll do well, but only time will truly tell.
@@EauGalleScenicRailway After tie plates, I'd like u to install superelevated curves along with concrete ties. BTW , Just to have the land to do your project, along with your passion is fucking impressive.
Credit youtube's algorithms.
@@EauGalleScenicRailway To add to my previous comment.... you really, really need tie plates on longitudinal curves. You will thank yourself in about 10 years.
Maybe.... keep in mind that we are modeling an industrial railroad with top speeds about 10 miles per hour.
@@EauGalleScenicRailway OK, 10mph is typical yard speed. At first glance, it looked like you were building a mainline. When you're done with construction, be sure to reveal the final product.
What is the radius of this curve?
We have no idea
@@EauGalleScenicRailway For the record, I love (and approve) this answer!
Eau Galle Florida? I'm up in Orlando
Nope... Eau Galle Township, Wisconsin
I know I just showed up on this channel, but you’re not using any tie plates?
You're right. If the budget was unlimited we'd certainly have them. We have a few hundred or so, so we could add them here or there if we need to. Our trains aren't that heavy so we think we can get by with just our screw spikes. Time will tell.
so that is where I left my horseshoe
No take backs
Wow! I'm surprised that you don't have to pre-bend the rail somehow.
Check out this video ua-cam.com/video/_huse_TG_KE/v-deo.htmlsi=-76vDgrtxIGpm0Mt Mr Cudd talks about bending and kinking rail.
Enjoyed the video. My old man would say, "get that Chinese contraption out of the way and put some muscle into it". :)
I can imagine a lot of the older guys saying that sort of thing.
Why aren't rail chairs used?
Because we don't have any
@@EauGalleScenicRailway 😭
Use duck tape😅 on them joints.
Ahhh..... hmm
I'm not sure if you received my other messages. Are you interested in a steam locomotive?
We've never completely ruled out steam power. What do you have?
@EauGalleScenicRailway I know where there's a 3' Forney. I run 2ft
We'd love to hear more about it
I just subscribed to your channel. Very cool!!!
I have tried to send an email for you and a phone number but I don't think it will let me. Not sure how to get ahold of you.
🔩
“Autumn”weather. “Fall” is too North American for the rest of the world to figure out.
LOL. Good point. Like they say... we learn more here by accident than elsewhere by design.
дизлайк, не показали, як вигнули!