HOW TO ASSEMBLE 6.2L LT1 V8 CHEVY ENGINE AND DELETE AFM DOD VVT
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2023
- please like this video :)
Facebook: / ghostlyrich
This is a very thorough walk through do it yourself tutorial i did on assembling a lt1 i will twin turbo later, in this video we upgrade the lt1 valve springs, vvt delete cam, oil pump, timing cover, delete the afm, change and replace all the gaskets, torque down the heads with ne arp hardware, install the harmonic balance, do the timing. Again this video is long but was meant to be thorough i will break this video down to smaller sections later. this was build for a corvette c7 6.2 lt1 but should work also for the Camaro 6.2 lt1 v8 and other vehicles as well.
Brian tooley racing cam, pushrods, titanium retainers
Late model engines timing cover, cam gear and timing chain guide
Katech oil pump and timing chain
Arp head studs
Che trunnion bushings
Ict valley tray and oil pressure sensor adaptor
Mahle and gm gaskets
Rtv black gasket maker
Excellent video. I love your attention to detail and no cutting corners.
The best video I have ever seen as far as rebuilding, love the torque specs and such! A++++ video. Wish I could afford a rebuild like this! Great Job!
I’m so grateful for these type of videos
I can’t thank you enough for making this video, it’s very informative!!!
Glad it helped!
Awesome video man. Working on building an LT4, which from what it looks like is similar to LT1. Waiting to get some manuals but this gets me going. Appreciate it!
Should be about the same just a bit different heads :)
All videos should be like this thanks.
Use the Pushrod part number Specific to your Head/Head Gasket Thickness. Don't use this part number as a blind copy. Z51 or GrandSport Dry sump may have some additional parts. I know you're Canadian but Mahle is pronounce Molly. Chamfer not Chafer. Rudeness aside, great video with lots of detail. it takes time to make these for others. Well done.
Thanks, haha i drive allot of americans crazy especially when i say mazda! I consulted davenport Motorsports so we could line up the perfect combo and could cross my eyes and dot my tees on everything, lol
thank you! great detailed video.
Hate to be that guy but grab the tork wrench by the end of the handle you will get a wrong reading thats why you were struggling to get to 18 ft lbs on the back cover. Also thanks for the video I did learn a lot im new to lt and im about to rebuild a 6.2 myself for a c10 project.
Nice man have fun. They are a nice easy engine to work on
They make such better spring compression tools
I quiet liked this one i know they make the screw down ones but have to be extra careful i have seen people strip the heads out and needing to re-tap them
Thanks for the video
Wow I wish I had known about that cam. I put TSP in mine that 10lbs is probably going to make a big difference.
for $600-$700 you'd think LME could put the plastic wire management clips on the inside of the cover
I am currently building something very similar to this. I am just curious if you could help me out with a question. I have installed my crank and the bearings are for the supercharger.. I know there is a main thrust bearing for the crank but the return bearing is a standard one like the other 4? I know LS builds had a top and bottom thrust bearing. Just curious if thats how these LT builds are
The one thing I need to add….. hold the handle of the torque wrench on the handle. Your torque specs are off when you’re holding it half way up the tool. Otherwise great video. I’ve subscribed
Thanks for the feed back
Is this advice followed in all sizes of torque wrenches or only the long ones with big ranges ?
Nice ,
But you got the spring compressor wrong
The longer stud with the handle goes above , holding the adapter , the small stud must touch the valve head , to keep the angle right and not bend the spring compressor
With the handle on top, you will be able to crank it standing up
Thanks for the info im new to this kit was a quick amazon by haha
can this engine be installed in a 2016 chevy Silverado? to replace the l86
How many engine builders will tell you , they were so excited to finish it and drive it , hear it run , they forgot to fill it up with oil ??? 😂😂
I seen someone do that one time ..
They do sell the 1/2 inch torque wrench as well. Could of been easier than the 3/8 . Since its longer and make it easier to turn . I know cause i work on 18 wheelers and that 1/2 inch is a life saver
With ARP bolts I think there are 3 steps to torque the cylinder head bolts. There is no degree with them.
You definitely can, the degrees were more to show both arp users and other bolt manufacturer users how to do the head bolts step, more universal :)
Great video. From pulling out the engine to new start up how long did it take you?
You can do it in a 3 weeks tona month if the machine shop is line up and parts are ordered but some machine shops take 3-6 months so thats your main factor. Pull out in a day, disassembled in a couple hours, send block to machine shop with heads to get machined and hot tankeds. Give the machine shop your rotational assembly so they balance and do all clearances to a T (short block setup), when you get it back do your own timing and mount the heads on so forth only takes a couple hours at most, then a day or two, and shes ready to fire, off to the tuning shop which usually takes a few days to a few weeks depending on backlog. So shedule your machince shop and tuner and should be good
For me was close to 5-6 months from.delays
Can you do the DOD delete on the stock motor without doing any kind of tuning? Had a lifter fail and not sure if we are doimg stock oem or the DOD delete.
If i were you do the dod delete its hard on the whole driveline going into 4 cylinder mode and you can delete allot of rotational mass if you get rid of the vvt sprocket and go with the ls3 sprocket. Add in a nice cam to the mix and you will get not only better reliability but a nice horsepower gain. You will need a small tune but nothing major to delete dod and fully utilize the cam you wont regret it though since your already pulling it apart to swap lifter.
Great vid explaining everything, especially updating us mid assembly on how to properly put the timing chain!
For your crankshaft, did you go with something aftermarket, or did you just use the original one in the engine? Trying to make an LT1 bullet proof like yours soon!
I went with a BTR stage one cam to match the pushrods, valve springs and retainers. As they are all btr as well.
What does the wire harness behind the timing cover goto ? And what it is there for? And you not use it
I did plug it in and use it. That is your oil pump sensor harness
With all the problems these newer engine have, i think I would use an old 327 for a project engine.
The easy way to do that is to put a small piece of plastic over the retainer and the keepers on the end of the valve and when you compress the valve spring everything will go into place try it put the retainer on the valve and install the retainers and put the plastic over the end and compress it you will thank me later
When assembling the valve train, do you know what "These" and "Those" are?
Are you talking about the retainers, the keepers, the valve springs the valve seats and the shimes?
What brand of torque wrench are you using?
Snap on for most of it.
wheres the cam degree install? didnt see zero lash on the rockers didnt see any measuring for proper pushrod length.
No need to degree cam with this cam and the lme ls3 sprocket it degrees cam by using timing markets(hope that makes sense) (lme timing cover kit) pushrods come made for this application and cam setup :) one could double check to be absolute certain of course.
What can gear did you use ?
Cam gear ? Ls3 come with lme timing cover and timing chain
Struggling with 56FT Pounds... we are sooo doomed!
Can't you disable AFM with a software hack alone? As long as it is still good, the pins never retracting and staying in the locked position basically prevents it from ever going bad, no? Also, I am surprised that for all the cost and effort that went into milling those pistons, they did not bead blast the tops to get rid of the sharp edges in the cutouts and dome which are generally not good for knock resistance,
Cp Carrillo engineering is pretty spot on with these systems they put together so i just go with the "flow" in this case lol.
Since doing cam best to just use the gm racing non afm lifters to match so no chance of collapsing lifter failer later. Allot of people just do the software disable until they get in the motor and do a cam upgrade then best practice is to swap the lifters.
Why would you want to delete the VVT?
When upgrading your cam for different lift and so on its common to delete the vvt functionality and takes allot of weight off the rotational assembly on the lt1
@@ghostlyrich Ah, got it. Thanks.
@ghostlyrich
I'm about to preform my rebuild on my LT1 any suggestions on building it my engine. I'm going super charger so was to make sure it is built for the power. Thank you.
Was hoping this covered the rotating assembly from the title and length
Since i was already getting the rotational assembly balanced they offered to put it in so the rings and bearings were in correct position. If you get your bearings and rings gapped and balanced to the block id get them to slap it in and usually you get a warranty as well
Unless your balancing and gapping the rings your self then good on yea lol
Why didn’t you degree the cam?
No need. Lme timing cover kit has a cam sprocket that locks it in a 6 degree off set
The reason you degree you cam is because every block is different so you degree it to put everything on 0
You degree cams to achieve intake and exhaust valve train timing, block imperfections are done with machining. Putting everything zeroed is quite simple crank and cam to the sky make sure block is level, confirm piston is tdc. In the case of this kit it says make sure cam and crank lines are facing each other.
Yea how about that !! 😂
Man that's a terrible fit, I'd never use that junk... better off with a J-hook or that compressor you showed at the beginning. On the second valve you demonstrate with the "better camera angle" you're moving the valve, you can see it plain as day... doesn't take much to bend a valve dude. Terrible job bro, look how much further down the second valve is when installing its retainers compared to the first one you did.
Use a pen magnet to install the retainers, when you magnetize them they fall right in place like a magnetic attraction lol... I couldn't make it much past the 13min mark ;)
I wouldn't let you near any of my shit...
Engines running great, never bent a valve yet in the engines i built. Everyones got there own tricks for getting them in. I find them easier to do mine, seems you like the way you do yours.
I wouldn’t want to touch your “shit”.
Spring retainer looks like they are installed upside down.
Gives off the illusion other side is set to hold both spring in certain position