Thanks for the video. I have a pair of Klein that are set up the same as your channelock. You saved me from needlessly buying a set of ratcheting crimpers.
After reading high praise, bought the Doyle which is Harbor Freight's clone of the Klein. Made a bunch of ground wires with lugs on both ends. Worked beautifully. I'm just a DIYer so this is all I need.
I'm hoping to do some testing with crimpers in future videos. I'm not sure you really need ratcheting crimpers for most things. A big thing is to make sure you have the correct die for what you are crimping.
Have them both and they work great it is a matter of preference for the user 👤 and good thing is that both are made in the USA 🇺🇸 great steel on both tools. Great video sir love good tools collect and use them as well. (Channellocks and Klein tools)
I can agree both are indeed great tools. With the dies being reversed between the two it definitely does come down to preference. Have you used any other styles of crimpers? Do you favor one over another?
Thanks for sharing. I have the Klein in this video and have found that it does a better job than my racheting type. I'll go get a pair of Channellocks today and try them out.
There are quite a few different types of ratcheting crimpers out there some definitely work better than others. For a good all around easy to use crimper, one the style of the Klein or Channellock can't be beat in my eyes. They don't break the bank and they don't take up a lot of space. I like to always do the "Tug Test" no matter what type of crimper I use that tells me I got a good crimp.
I used to be an electronics equipment installer fo a federal agency. When I first started we were using the cheap crimpers and amazingly got lots of splices that worked. Then we graduated to the Klein that you showed, then the agency decided those were not good enough and bought the ratcheting crimpers from Daniels Manufactuing Company $$$. I was never convinced that the DMC was any better than the Klein.
I have to agree on everything you said. I never had much luck with the cheap crimpers. I often try and point Apprentices toward the Klein or the Channellock. I got the Channellock in this video a long time ago and it has always served me well.
The Klein is a great crimper. Most crimpers of that style work really well for 20AWG through 10AWG compression terminals. Do you crimp insulated or non-insulated or both?
The biggest difference is the way the insulated and non-insulated dies are oriented. On the channellock, the non-insulated is further front, and you don't have to open the handles as far. That's the only real difference. On the flip side, because the non-insulated is near the rivet on the klien, I believe you will get more leverage on the non-insulated crimp.
You need to be careful doing that. Insulated crimps may not properly crimp by using that die. Yes, you'll squeeze it, but depending on products and specs from customers, you'll likely end up redoing all the work. The non-insulated die favoring the front is handy if you're crimping a fair amount of non-insulated connectors. I understand some guys don't need to worry about meeting specs, I don't want to be misleading to those who do. Thank you for the comment. You're not at all wrong that die will crimp insulated connectors as well. Be mindful of your customers and end game specs.
Agreed, put noninsulated towards the center, that gives more leverage when you can use that extra leverage. If you put too much leverage on the insulated ones they just squish the plastic.
They may have I have a video planned that will compare a newer channellock with the one in this video. We will find out when we test and compare them to each other. The channellock in this video is a trusted old friend it always does a great job.
@@TalkingHandsTools I ended up buying the Ideal branded style crimper. Other than chamfering the sharp tooling edges, it works real good. Looking out for the video.
I think you need to put the indent on the bottom of the connector I see factory auto motive harnesses that have the pyramid style indent on insulated connectors and its always on the bottom of the connector when you put the crimp on the top were the gap from the two sides of the metal come together it's not as strong in my opinion I have spent ALOT of time crimping over the years for many years I had issues trusting crimps but since I discovered these triangle poker crimps similiar to the klien and channel lock for "non insulated" but pyramid shaped I use on insulated all day every day and 100% will never pull out and always conduct great!!!
@TalkingHandsTools I would like to get together with you and send you some videos of how I crimp to see wat you think maybe you can help me find some crimpers with the pyramid shape indenter... I lost 1 pair and couldn't find any for sale and a stroke of luck a coworker had another pair that I purchased from.. I wonder if there custom made
I've had good luck with what McMaster sells, T&B or 3M are also good brands. Amp is also good brand, though I'm not sure if they are still made. If you go with McMaster they normally ship super fast.
Yes there are only two dies on them one for insulated and one for non-insulated. These are only intended for the 18-20 AWG (Red), 14-16 AWG (Blue) and 12-10 AWG (Yellow) Crimp connectors.
I'm not quite sure how that would work, I know you would definitely squeeze the closed barrel connectors but I think there would be excess material for the crimper. Open barrel are quite thin and the dies are designed to roll the metal over itself. Closed barrel have thicker metal and need a little more breathing room. Great question I'll include it on my list of things to try and talk about in a future crimper based video. Thank you again for the comment.
On the T & B. What is the Exact Model Number Sir I'd like to get a Set I've seen a few that are available for Insulated Terminals the One's you where using looked to be for the Standard Insulated Terminal but I've also seen that T & B sells a set that Crimps Insulated Heat Shrink Terminals which I do have some of them, what I'm wondering would the set you where using would they Crimp the Heat shrink Terminals without Damaging the Terminal.. Thomas & Betts builds & sells some Great products but having to buy 2 crimpers for just a certain style Terminal that gets a little expensive... But I surely liked the Video and was wondering what model those Crimpers Where Thanks Allen D RDA N Scale
The ERG4001 is for insulated terminals 20awg-10awg. The ERG4002 is for non insulated terminals 20awg-10awg. And the ERG4255 is for heat shrink terminals 20awg-10awg. I honestly don't know if the ERG4001 will damage the shrink tubing. Maybe I'll try and make some time in the next week or two and we'll make a video experimenting to see.
T&B Good stuff, kinda pricey for the average guy. Channellock over Klein. Wire stripper combo tool is what most people will use. All of these are scissor style. Better are parallel jaw style but price thru the roof. Good tool helps make good crimp but skill level is the most important I think. And quality material helps but again skill trumps. Tug test and I like non-insulated, you can see what happens in the crimp.
The good ratcheting crimpers are no doubt pricey, but it depends on what you are using them for. Before I retired my job required that I make many, high-quality crimp connections. Under those circumstances, I would opt for the ratcheting crimpers, especially since the company paid for them. But for home use, I use the Klein (or Channel Locks) plier type.
I can definitely go along with what you are saying. The ratcheting crimpers definitely have their place. Were the ones you used calibrated for a specific connector and wire? I have seen that in the past, (that is not the case with the ratcheting crimpers in this video). Overall I would steer guys toward the Channellock or Klein style crimper they are way more versatile and give a more reliable crimp for the money. Specialized crimps are obviously a different situation that will be specific to that case.
Your welcome. There's many kinds of crimpers available and depending on your application some are more practical than others. The most expensive isn't necessarily the best.
Thanks for the information I will look into this. Maybe I'll do a video on what I find. I can't say I've crimped any 18-20 AWG connectors with my klein crimper. I guess one more question what gauge wire are you crimping? I believe the claim is the crimpers will do 20 to 10AWG.
It's an easy mistake to make. I've seen a few other people do the same. Do you like the way it crimps insulated connectors better with the other die? You can get away with using the non insulated die, but sometimes it rips up the vinyl of the connectors.
@@TalkingHandsTools sometimes it does tear through the insulation. Everytime I crimp it would crimp to one side. So I would have to flip the tool and crimp the other side
That makes sense. Have they felt like good crimps using the Non-Insulated part of the die? I've crimped a lot with my Channel-Lock and not as much with my Klein.
Ive been turned off to ratcheting crimpers… i got a cheap one from amazon, seemed to work fine for a dozen or so crimps, then it just didnt tighten enough and my wire pulled right out. Ive been weary of them ever since… i picked up a pair of the Kleins… i needed insulated.
There are quite a few different dies for the ratcheting styles. Sometimes that can play a roll in things, especially when you get into uninsulated. As far as insulated I know heat shrink and non heat shrink have different dies and sometimes the crimp manufacturers use different thickness of vinyl which would effect the ratcheting style more than the non ratcheting. There's a bunch of variables and quality control of both the crimpers and the connectors definitely has an impact. In sensitive locations I have heard of crimpers needing to be calibrated and certified for the type lug they are being used for but I do not have any first hands experience with that to talk about.
There is a sprocket on the side of the ratcheting crimper that will increase or decrease the crimp tension . Wire and terminal manufacturers very tolerances due to manufacturer variables !
Yes, you are correct, I don't recall if I showed that in the video or not, but I know ratcheting crimpers need to be properly set for what you're crimping. What I don't know is how you set them to the tolerances specified by the manufacturer. If you know the process, I would love to learn about it. Depending on how involved it is, I may even do a video on it. Thanks for the comment. Its super fascinating how much goes into crimper calibrations.
I apologize, but it appears a bunch of my early videos only uploaded in lower resolution for some reason. I could try and re-upload the video at some point. I honestly wasn't aware till just now. I thought I uploaded everything in 1080P I guess my old crappy internet got me.
Michael Lawrence soldering is OK I used to be the same solder guy because I could never get crimps to work... There's a proper procedure to crimps I don't use butt connectors only spade female/male and prefer a certain brand 100% success rate will ripe a wire in half everything before my crimps fail and with any brand female/male spade I can get 95% to rip wire in half The trick is correct crimpers... and correct orientation of connector.. you need the crimpers that have a triangular pyramid shaped poker and trick is to always put the poker on the solid bottom of the connector never crimp with poker on the top split part of connector... I went years and years not trusting crimp connections now I never even think twice about my connectors I KNOW they are good every time from 8gauge to 18 gouge smaller than 18gauge I prefer solder but for more harness and automotive wiring we only use 10-18 gauge. I bet there's a crimper tool and connectors that may work for smaller gauges... it would just need to be same design as the one I use but with smaller diameters... The problem with solder connections is if they move around too much and don't have perfect strain relief they tend to break over time... Plus no matter how good and fast u are at soldering u can't solder faster than I can crimp. But alas until you see and feel how I crimp stuff I totally understand the bias against crimping I used to be the same way until one day I stumbled across the perfect pair of crimpers wich are actually pretty rare... lol there are similiar style crimpers but the poker isn't pyramid style they are the same but don't come to a point they are wider pokers same length and width at the bottom of the poker but mine come to a point at the top were the not good ones stay the same length width from bottom to top the top bottom crimpers with blue handles are the style that I'm describing how ever the poker on that one is rounded imagine if that poker was pyramid shaped and that's what I use it works 10000000% of the time it's amazing I got them on accident from a friend. At work and I can't find any for sale anywere I'm wondering if they are custom made how ever when I look at factory made wiring harness I look at the crimps and they have a similiar pyramid shaped crimp indentations...
And I use the non insulated on insulated connectors but I have a pyramid shape poker and if you look at some factory harness you'll see the pyramid indent on insulated connecters
Good video, but you missed out the most popular crimping tool, probably because it's the cheapest, where the strippers are ok but the crimping style is garbage. It's the squash style crimp and no matter how much you squash the connector they always come loose after a while.
I actually don't own a pair. I should probably get a pair sometime and show how awful they are. I cringe when I see the tell tale marks of one of those crimpers.
@@TalkingHandsTools Yeah, just for self torture to see how bad something can be, even the strippers are bad with that gap you have to wiggle the wire or tool to cut all the way round, just so the manufacturer can save some cash. Oh and it would take up valuable storage space, lol.
I'd say for the most part you are correct. The biggest difference I would say is they have slightly more crimped area and in the case of all the crimpers in this video they require less force to get a crimp. If your doing a lot of crimping that may matter and be worth it. Some sites also require a crimper that has been certified to achieve the same amount of force each time the ratcheting crimper can also do that. I none of those three items effect you then I really don't see an advantage to a ratcheting crimper and as you can see the Channellock, Klein or one designed like those two would be a better buy.
Sadly, the quality and finish of Channellock 909 crimpers manufactured today has gone way downhill from the crimpers that were made decades ago. I have the old ones, and looking at the new ones in the stores brings a tear to my eye. Very rough, poor machining, sharp edges everywhere along the tool, uneven edges, and tooling marks that look like the crimpers were finished on a rough carborundum grinding wheel. Honestly, they strike me as some kind of cheap CCP Chinese POS from Harbor Freight! I have about 15 Channellock hand tools tools that were purchased in the 80s and 90s, and they are indeed fabulous. My advice to anyone considering buying a brand new set of Channellock crimpers, do yourself a big favor before buying and go look at a set of the Klein J1005 crimpers. Just hold them side by side with the Channellocks and you will see a MAJOR difference in quality of manufacture, it totally blew me away!. Klein still builds these crimpers pretty much just like they did years ago, made in the USA and nicely polished and finished, like a tool that costs $30+ should be!!! They cost a few bucks more than the Channellocks, but after you compare the two I am sure you will want the smooth Kleins over the rough Channellocks. They are WELL WORTH the extra dollars, any day of the week.
Thank you very much for the input. Maybe I will get a new pair of Channelocks and we can compare them. Interesting side note. The T&B is probably the nicest I've seen. The Klein follows the T&B die arrangement. I believe T&Bs main competitor Burndy reversed the orientation of the dies (likkely patent stuff) and that is the orientation the channelocks use. I actually prefer the channelock orientation it's faster to use and you don't have to open the tool as far. I definitely want to compare new and old channellock crimpers. Maybe we can do some more experimenting with this style crimper in the future. Now I just need the time to shoot the videos. Thank you again for the ideas and input. You cannot go wrong with the Kleins they are great quality.
Thanks for this! As a non-pro who only has to crimp once in a while, this saved me from buying another cumbersome crimper. The Channellock is awesome.
Super glad to help out. I think it's a great alternative that doesn't break the bank.
Thanks for the video. I have a pair of Klein that are set up the same as your channelock. You saved me from needlessly buying a set of ratcheting crimpers.
How old are those Kleins? Do you have a catalog number for them? I'd like to look them up and test them against the others.
After reading high praise, bought the Doyle which is Harbor Freight's clone of the Klein. Made a bunch of ground wires with lugs on both ends. Worked beautifully. I'm just a DIYer so this is all I need.
Thats great, I would like to do some other videos at some point with different types of crimpers.
Thanks for the video. I've never tried a ratcheting crimp tool. Subscribed.
I'm hoping to do some testing with crimpers in future videos. I'm not sure you really need ratcheting crimpers for most things. A big thing is to make sure you have the correct die for what you are crimping.
Have them both and they work great it is a matter of preference for the user 👤 and good thing is that both are made in the USA 🇺🇸 great steel on both tools. Great video sir love good tools collect and use them as well. (Channellocks and Klein tools)
I can agree both are indeed great tools. With the dies being reversed between the two it definitely does come down to preference. Have you used any other styles of crimpers? Do you favor one over another?
Thanks for sharing. I have the Klein in this video and have found that it does a better job than my racheting type. I'll go get a pair of Channellocks today and try them out.
There are quite a few different types of ratcheting crimpers out there some definitely work better than others. For a good all around easy to use crimper, one the style of the Klein or Channellock can't be beat in my eyes. They don't break the bank and they don't take up a lot of space. I like to always do the "Tug Test" no matter what type of crimper I use that tells me I got a good crimp.
I used to be an electronics equipment installer fo a federal agency. When I first started we were using the cheap crimpers and amazingly got lots of splices that worked. Then we graduated to the Klein that you showed, then the agency decided those were not good enough and bought the ratcheting crimpers from Daniels Manufactuing Company $$$. I was never convinced that the DMC was any better than the Klein.
I have to agree on everything you said. I never had much luck with the cheap crimpers. I often try and point Apprentices toward the Klein or the Channellock. I got the Channellock in this video a long time ago and it has always served me well.
I just recently purchased the Klein tool, and so far, I really like it.
The Klein is a great crimper. Most crimpers of that style work really well for 20AWG through 10AWG compression terminals.
Do you crimp insulated or non-insulated or both?
Usually just insulated @@TalkingHandsTools
Nice, they are great crimpers. If you have any updates after you get a chance to use them for a while, please come back and fill us in.
My choice was between either the Cahnnelock or Klein, and I went with the Klein. I'm sure the Channelock crimper is a good one as well.
The biggest difference is the way the insulated and non-insulated dies are oriented. On the channellock, the non-insulated is further front, and you don't have to open the handles as far. That's the only real difference. On the flip side, because the non-insulated is near the rivet on the klien, I believe you will get more leverage on the non-insulated crimp.
Very helpful. Thanks. Now I’ll go buy the channel lock tool.
I think it's a great value for the money.
Awesome video. I'm gonna get the mid range ones.
Can't go wrong going with the Chanellocks.
For the Klein style, if you use the tooth die to crimp everything, then you don't have to worry about getting the jaws open wide.
You need to be careful doing that. Insulated crimps may not properly crimp by using that die. Yes, you'll squeeze it, but depending on products and specs from customers, you'll likely end up redoing all the work. The non-insulated die favoring the front is handy if you're crimping a fair amount of non-insulated connectors. I understand some guys don't need to worry about meeting specs, I don't want to be misleading to those who do.
Thank you for the comment. You're not at all wrong that die will crimp insulated connectors as well. Be mindful of your customers and end game specs.
Agreed, put noninsulated towards the center, that gives more leverage when you can use that extra leverage. If you put too much leverage on the insulated ones they just squish the plastic.
You are correct, I'm hoping to have a future video get into this a little more.
Has channellock changed crimp profiles on newer crimpers? That crimp at 7:40 was beautiful.
They may have I have a video planned that will compare a newer channellock with the one in this video. We will find out when we test and compare them to each other. The channellock in this video is a trusted old friend it always does a great job.
@@TalkingHandsTools I ended up buying the Ideal branded style crimper. Other than chamfering the sharp tooling edges, it works real good. Looking out for the video.
We will see if we can incorporate an Ideal in our testing. Thank you for the feedback!
I think you need to put the indent on the bottom of the connector I see factory auto motive harnesses that have the pyramid style indent on insulated connectors and its always on the bottom of the connector when you put the crimp on the top were the gap from the two sides of the metal come together it's not as strong in my opinion I have spent ALOT of time crimping over the years for many years I had issues trusting crimps but since I discovered these triangle poker crimps similiar to the klien and channel lock for "non insulated" but pyramid shaped I use on insulated all day every day and 100% will never pull out and always conduct great!!!
@TalkingHandsTools I would like to get together with you and send you some videos of how I crimp to see wat you think maybe you can help me find some crimpers with the pyramid shape indenter... I lost 1 pair and couldn't find any for sale and a stroke of luck a coworker had another pair that I purchased from.. I wonder if there custom made
Do you have a favorite non insulated terminal brand? All the ones on Amazon seem cheap and thin metal
I've had good luck with what McMaster sells, T&B or 3M are also good brands. Amp is also good brand, though I'm not sure if they are still made. If you go with McMaster they normally ship super fast.
I did not see a color code on the channel locks for different gauges of wires. Does it do them all in the same spot?
Yes there are only two dies on them one for insulated and one for non-insulated. These are only intended for the 18-20 AWG (Red), 14-16 AWG (Blue) and 12-10 AWG (Yellow) Crimp connectors.
Can I use an open barrel crimper on closed barrel pins? Thanks man
I'm not quite sure how that would work, I know you would definitely squeeze the closed barrel connectors but I think there would be excess material for the crimper. Open barrel are quite thin and the dies are designed to roll the metal over itself. Closed barrel have thicker metal and need a little more breathing room. Great question I'll include it on my list of things to try and talk about in a future crimper based video. Thank you again for the comment.
On the T & B. What is the Exact Model Number Sir I'd like to get a Set I've seen a few that are available for Insulated Terminals the One's you where using looked to be for the Standard Insulated Terminal but I've also seen that T & B sells a set that Crimps Insulated Heat Shrink Terminals which I do have some of them, what I'm wondering would the set you where using would they Crimp the Heat shrink Terminals without Damaging the Terminal.. Thomas & Betts builds & sells some Great products but having to buy 2 crimpers for just a certain style Terminal that gets a little expensive...
But I surely liked the Video and was wondering what model those Crimpers Where Thanks Allen D RDA N Scale
The ERG4001 is for insulated terminals 20awg-10awg. The ERG4002 is for non insulated terminals 20awg-10awg. And the ERG4255 is for heat shrink terminals 20awg-10awg. I honestly don't know if the ERG4001 will damage the shrink tubing. Maybe I'll try and make some time in the next week or two and we'll make a video experimenting to see.
Hey Thanks Can you Buy the Thomas & Betts Dies for these Crimpers or does T&B sell them... as a Separate Item..
Unfortunately I do not know the answer to that. I'd like to say yes due to it making sense but I've not seen them sold separately myself.
T&B Good stuff, kinda pricey for the average guy. Channellock over Klein. Wire stripper combo tool is what most people will use. All of these are scissor style. Better are parallel jaw style but price thru the roof. Good tool helps make good crimp but skill level is the most important I think. And quality material helps but again skill trumps. Tug test and I like non-insulated, you can see what happens in the crimp.
The good ratcheting crimpers are no doubt pricey, but it depends on what you are using them for. Before I retired my job required that I make many, high-quality crimp connections. Under those circumstances, I would opt for the ratcheting crimpers, especially since the company paid for them. But for home use, I use the Klein (or Channel Locks) plier type.
I can definitely go along with what you are saying. The ratcheting crimpers definitely have their place. Were the ones you used calibrated for a specific connector and wire? I have seen that in the past, (that is not the case with the ratcheting crimpers in this video). Overall I would steer guys toward the Channellock or Klein style crimper they are way more versatile and give a more reliable crimp for the money. Specialized crimps are obviously a different situation that will be specific to that case.
Thanks, great explanations
Your welcome. There's many kinds of crimpers available and depending on your application some are more practical than others. The most expensive isn't necessarily the best.
Klein has a new glow in the dark stripper. Handles are white so they can grease up a little. High visibility I guess.
Did you get a set? If you did how have they held up? I think I saw a Lineman Pliers with the glow in the dark handles a while back.
i got a klien but it won't crimp the red insulated ones tight enough
Which die are you using? The one closer to the handle or the one closer to cutter?
the one marked insulated@@TalkingHandsTools
That should be the correct die. What brand connectors are you using? I've not run into this problem. To be fair, I favor my channellock version.
@@TalkingHandsTools brand doesn't seem to matter just don't crimp tight
Thanks for the information I will look into this. Maybe I'll do a video on what I find. I can't say I've crimped any 18-20 AWG connectors with my klein crimper.
I guess one more question what gauge wire are you crimping? I believe the claim is the crimpers will do 20 to 10AWG.
I've been using my klien wrong this entire time. I've been using the knub part to crimp everything
It's an easy mistake to make. I've seen a few other people do the same. Do you like the way it crimps insulated connectors better with the other die? You can get away with using the non insulated die, but sometimes it rips up the vinyl of the connectors.
@@TalkingHandsTools sometimes it does tear through the insulation. Everytime I crimp it would crimp to one side. So I would have to flip the tool and crimp the other side
Thats interesting what size wire do you normally crimp?
@@TalkingHandsTools 16- 18wire.
That makes sense. Have they felt like good crimps using the Non-Insulated part of the die? I've crimped a lot with my Channel-Lock and not as much with my Klein.
Ive been turned off to ratcheting crimpers… i got a cheap one from amazon, seemed to work fine for a dozen or so crimps, then it just didnt tighten enough and my wire pulled right out. Ive been weary of them ever since… i picked up a pair of the Kleins… i needed insulated.
There are quite a few different dies for the ratcheting styles. Sometimes that can play a roll in things, especially when you get into uninsulated. As far as insulated I know heat shrink and non heat shrink have different dies and sometimes the crimp manufacturers use different thickness of vinyl which would effect the ratcheting style more than the non ratcheting. There's a bunch of variables and quality control of both the crimpers and the connectors definitely has an impact. In sensitive locations I have heard of crimpers needing to be calibrated and certified for the type lug they are being used for but I do not have any first hands experience with that to talk about.
There is a sprocket on the side of the ratcheting crimper that will increase or decrease the crimp tension . Wire and terminal manufacturers very tolerances due to manufacturer variables !
Yes, you are correct, I don't recall if I showed that in the video or not, but I know ratcheting crimpers need to be properly set for what you're crimping. What I don't know is how you set them to the tolerances specified by the manufacturer. If you know the process, I would love to learn about it. Depending on how involved it is, I may even do a video on it. Thanks for the comment. Its super fascinating how much goes into crimper calibrations.
The problem with the ratchet crimpers is they are so big and bulky. Not good for tight areas
I agree, they take up a fair amount of space in the tool bag also. If your not crammed into a tight spot ratcheting crimpers can be nice and fast.
About the only thing I use those cheap stripper/crimper tools for is if I need to cut down a machine screw.
Absolutely!
i love it. but this your VDO is 480P. please make VDO Again.
I apologize, but it appears a bunch of my early videos only uploaded in lower resolution for some reason. I could try and re-upload the video at some point. I honestly wasn't aware till just now. I thought I uploaded everything in 1080P I guess my old crappy internet got me.
Michael Lawrence soldering is OK I used to be the same solder guy because I could never get crimps to work...
There's a proper procedure to crimps I don't use butt connectors only spade female/male and prefer a certain brand 100% success rate will ripe a wire in half everything before my crimps fail and with any brand female/male spade I can get 95% to rip wire in half
The trick is correct crimpers... and correct orientation of connector.. you need the crimpers that have a triangular pyramid shaped poker and trick is to always put the poker on the solid bottom of the connector never crimp with poker on the top split part of connector... I went years and years not trusting crimp connections now I never even think twice about my connectors I KNOW they are good every time from 8gauge to 18 gouge smaller than 18gauge I prefer solder but for more harness and automotive wiring we only use 10-18 gauge. I bet there's a crimper tool and connectors that may work for smaller gauges... it would just need to be same design as the one I use but with smaller diameters...
The problem with solder connections is if they move around too much and don't have perfect strain relief they tend to break over time...
Plus no matter how good and fast u are at soldering u can't solder faster than I can crimp.
But alas until you see and feel how I crimp stuff I totally understand the bias against crimping I used to be the same way until one day I stumbled across the perfect pair of crimpers wich are actually pretty rare... lol there are similiar style crimpers but the poker isn't pyramid style they are the same but don't come to a point they are wider pokers same length and width at the bottom of the poker but mine come to a point at the top were the not good ones stay the same length width from bottom to top the top bottom crimpers with blue handles are the style that I'm describing how ever the poker on that one is rounded imagine if that poker was pyramid shaped and that's what I use it works 10000000% of the time it's amazing I got them on accident from a friend. At work and I can't find any for sale anywere I'm wondering if they are custom made how ever when I look at factory made wiring harness I look at the crimps and they have a similiar pyramid shaped crimp indentations...
And I use the non insulated on insulated connectors but I have a pyramid shape poker and if you look at some factory harness you'll see the pyramid indent on insulated connecters
School of the American Rifle?
Good video, but you missed out the most popular crimping tool, probably because it's the cheapest, where the strippers are ok but the crimping style is garbage. It's the squash style crimp and no matter how much you squash the connector they always come loose after a while.
I actually don't own a pair. I should probably get a pair sometime and show how awful they are. I cringe when I see the tell tale marks of one of those crimpers.
@@TalkingHandsTools Yeah, just for self torture to see how bad something can be, even the strippers are bad with that gap you have to wiggle the wire or tool to cut all the way round, just so the manufacturer can save some cash. Oh and it would take up valuable storage space, lol.
My take away…. Those ratchet crimpers are plain ol’ overkill. Big, bulky, cumbersome and heavy.
I'd say for the most part you are correct. The biggest difference I would say is they have slightly more crimped area and in the case of all the crimpers in this video they require less force to get a crimp. If your doing a lot of crimping that may matter and be worth it. Some sites also require a crimper that has been certified to achieve the same amount of force each time the ratcheting crimper can also do that.
I none of those three items effect you then I really don't see an advantage to a ratcheting crimper and as you can see the Channellock, Klein or one designed like those two would be a better buy.
Sadly, the quality and finish of Channellock 909 crimpers manufactured today has gone way downhill from the crimpers that were made decades ago. I have the old ones, and looking at the new ones in the stores brings a tear to my eye. Very rough, poor machining, sharp edges everywhere along the tool, uneven edges, and tooling marks that look like the crimpers were finished on a rough carborundum grinding wheel. Honestly, they strike me as some kind of cheap CCP Chinese POS from Harbor Freight! I have about 15 Channellock hand tools tools that were purchased in the 80s and 90s, and they are indeed fabulous. My advice to anyone considering buying a brand new set of Channellock crimpers, do yourself a big favor before buying and go look at a set of the Klein J1005 crimpers. Just hold them side by side with the Channellocks and you will see a MAJOR difference in quality of manufacture, it totally blew me away!. Klein still builds these crimpers pretty much just like they did years ago, made in the USA and nicely polished and finished, like a tool that costs $30+ should be!!! They cost a few bucks more than the Channellocks, but after you compare the two I am sure you will want the smooth Kleins over the rough Channellocks. They are WELL WORTH the extra dollars, any day of the week.
Thank you very much for the input. Maybe I will get a new pair of Channelocks and we can compare them. Interesting side note. The T&B is probably the nicest I've seen. The Klein follows the T&B die arrangement. I believe T&Bs main competitor Burndy reversed the orientation of the dies (likkely patent stuff) and that is the orientation the channelocks use. I actually prefer the channelock orientation it's faster to use and you don't have to open the tool as far. I definitely want to compare new and old channellock crimpers. Maybe we can do some more experimenting with this style crimper in the future. Now I just need the time to shoot the videos. Thank you again for the ideas and input. You cannot go wrong with the Kleins they are great quality.