Replaced the R.M.S while doing the head gaskets this summer. Leaks worse than before! Drips onto the exhaust and the smoke absolutely billows out from underneath my car now. Used an OEM seal so not sure wtf is up with my pos car. Super annoying to do all that work and still have major issues.
When installing the seal shoukd you tap the seal until it cant seat any further down or should it just be flush with the shaft? I noticed on the 2012 impreza the seal can be seated much further down in the hole.
I rebuilt the engine in 1999 Forrester and had leak in rear looked like it was coming from plastic oil baffle plate. Replaced it with a dorman part. Now it leaks worse. I had replaced the rear main but pushed it in too far but it was not leaking all of the oil was at baffle area. Any ideas???
Hey MrSubaru1387. Just started watching the channel for a few weeks now. Your doing a great job. Was wondering if you could make a video on how to remove the front driver and passenger fenders on an Outback if you got one. Thanks and keep making the great videos.
I love your videos, i have look at the company 23 rear ej seal install tools, will these work for on the ez30? Its looks very similar. :) Love your work.
everything I'm hearing is telling me there's no way that would work and the seal would need to be carefully dug out of there. there is a spot for oil to drain through that gets blocked by a seal pushed all the way to the back. You would think there would be some kind of a lip or something to prevent this kind of screw up. One guy said he drilled through the seal with dry wall screws and then pulled it out nice and even (living dangerously it sounds like).
I made the mistake of seating the main seal too far in,blocking an oil passage After starting motor the seal popped out. Lesson learned, seat seal just past outer surface. If you do a lot of these Subaru main seals it might be worth making a tool the screws onto the rear of the crank pressing the seal into place. I have used sheet metal screws to pull old seals out, drill pilot holes into seal and carefully install screws to used pull out seal. Subaru service tech told me a rear oil leak is often caused by a bad seal on cover plate bolted next to end of crank not the main seal.
I have a question. EJ25 AT 2002 Legacy. Please help. I am facing a problem of oil leaking from the rear crankshaft seal. Most videos on this topic show the replacement of this seal by removing the engine. Is it possible to replace this seal without removing the engine, only by dismantling the AT? Disconnecting the axle shaft and rear differential shaft and dismantling the gearbox itself seem to require less work, if it is at all possible to get to the seal and replace it. Please help, is it possible? ? ? ?
Yes gearbox out is a handy way to go anout rear seal. Take front shafts out of gearbox and leave in hub split ball joints just a little tip for you. Hope that answers your question 👍🏻
Is there any other seal around the torque converter that can be leaking. I have oil coming out around that area it’s not a heavy or slow leak. I don’t see exactly but see a stain coming from that area. Should this be something to worry about. There’s no oil stains left behind and my oil doesn’t seem to drop any in between oil changes and I check my oil one every two weeks or every weekend
I know this is an old video, but its worth a shot for a reply. I am installing the rear main and I finally got the seal seated evenly, and just below the outer lip. But, while tapping it in with a 1/4 drive extension, the rubber coating on the face of the seal has quite a bit of damage. I have made sure it is only on the face, and not on either edge. Is this going to be a problem, and if so, (Other than using the press tool), how can you seat one of these seals? The rubber seems extremely thin on the face, and I was not tapping with much force at all to drive it in. If anything, I may have been tapping too lightly (trying to avoid going too far).
I took my car to the garage for an oil leak, they looked at it and confirmed the rear main seal was leaking. Upon removing the gearbox, they found the seal had been replaced but had been put on the wrong way several years earlier which explained the oil leak. Some idiot must have done that seal
What does it mean when oil is leaking right out of the crank in the middle (rear main seal dry)? Does that indicate a warped crank? Not sure how to upload a picture.
Does the H6 not have the oil separator plate that is known to fail on the 4 cylinders? I didn't see it in this video. My H6 leaks from the rear as well so if all I need is a rear seal then I guess that's good news.
Where is the oil separator plate ? Should be next to the main deal. Also if it’s leaking oil from main seal how long can you drive it before you have to replace ?
Oil/air separator plate is to the right of the rear main seal. On the back of the engine. You can drive it forever without replacing. Just depends on how much oil you want to waste and how much mess you want under the car.
@@MrSubaru1387I’m currently dealing with this issue now, burning 2 quarts every thousand miles(weeks worth of driving). How costly is a repair, more or less
I may have hit the seal abit too hard all around. The seal is not completely messed up but the marks from the 1/4 extension are clear...is this a problem?
I had that lisle seal puller and found it ultimately useless bent the part that is supposed to grab the lip every time I used it I couldn’t get it to do anything. In the trash now
Do you think you could make a video on older cruse control systems diagnosis. I haven't really seen a lot of info on the topic and it would probably be pretty useful to a lot of viewers
I have a small oil plus coolant leak from my rear seal on my 1999 Outback 30th anniversary model 2.5 185k miles, my radiator upper hose connection fell apart on the highway "who makes plastic radiator sides?!" And I hopped it home gas station to gas station, I never overheated it to the red point, the most hot it got was 2/3 up but after I put in a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, fluid, found out it was all because of a fan fuse was blown so the fan didn't turn on and the engine heat ran away, now I noticed droplets of oil looking like coolant might be mixed in under the car, it looks like it's coming from the rear of the oil pan, half of the pan is wet and the front half is dry, I drive twice a week only due to my disability and I can't afford a mechanic so I will have to address it myself. Any suggestions brother? I would be very thankful. Tom from Colorado
+TAVOR VICEROY VALDOR I'd start by spraying all the oil/coolant off of the oil pan/engine with some carb or brake parts cleaner. Then I'd watch to see what is leaking and from where. Being that it's just the rear of the oil pan that's wet, I'd guess it's just the pan seal leaking oil. The coolant is most likely residual from the leak/rupture you experienced.
MrSubaru1387 my God if that's all that it is I would be so grateful, I was thinking just that about the pan gasket but from experience I think off the best and prepare for the worse. I know it's a lot to ask brother but could you email me some diagrams I.e. Exploded view of the area and a step by step? I know it's a lot to ask but I would be grateful, disability sucks because I can't even afford a Hanes manual. God Bless you and your family. 😔tomasz.szpak1@gmail.com ♥️💙🇺🇸💙♥️
MrSubaru1387 thank you from the bottom of my heart! I don't know how to repay you brother. May I write you any questions along the way? I promise I won't email you too many times?
+Walter Elkin cross your fingers and hope it doesn't leak. Honestly, I'd probably take some emery cloth or crocus cloth and try to smooth the area lightly. And then, hope it doesn't leak.
MrSubaru1387 I saw a company makes a sleeve to knock over called a speedi sleeve. Is there any way to check it won't leak without assembling the engine and trans?
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you very much for the quick reply. I am suspecting that's why my clutch is slipping on Boost. Clutch is fairly new lots of life on the pad we scoped it today and found a bunch of oil in there
"I'm mildly talented with cars. I wonder if I can fix the seal in my driveway".
Step 1: Remove engine or transmission.
"Nope".
I find that a Nescafe can fits nicely over the seal, and requires only a rubber mallet hit. and some oil...
Someone get this man an award
I'm doing this job today. Hopefully I'm getting the engine back on today
Replaced the R.M.S while doing the head gaskets this summer. Leaks worse than before! Drips onto the exhaust and the smoke absolutely billows out from underneath my car now. Used an OEM seal so not sure wtf is up with my pos car. Super annoying to do all that work and still have major issues.
Note alot of other people will use a drill bit to make tiny holes in the seal to pull it out.
I have that seal removal tool it works. Had my clutch done st shop . 1800 dollars . Could have done myself live and learn. Exedy stage 1
You ever use it? 🤣 I tossed mine never worked for me the lip always bent over and always went for a seal puller
When installing the seal shoukd you tap the seal until it cant seat any further down or should it just be flush with the shaft? I noticed on the 2012 impreza the seal can be seated much further down in the hole.
Take out the engine or transmission which is easier?
Rear main seals are so overlooked while the engine or transmission is out for other service.
+Homebrew Subaru that they are.
@@MrSubaru1387😢😅😊😢😅😢😢
I rebuilt the engine in 1999 Forrester and had leak in rear looked like it was coming from plastic oil baffle plate. Replaced it with a dorman part. Now it leaks worse. I had replaced the rear main but pushed it in too far but it was not leaking all of the oil was at baffle area. Any ideas???
Hey MrSubaru1387. Just started watching the channel for a few weeks now. Your doing a great job. Was wondering if you could make a video on how to remove the front driver and passenger fenders on an Outback if you got one. Thanks and keep making the great videos.
+CCG can do. Which year model?
MrSubaru1387 anywhere from 98-04 if you could. Thanks very much. Your videos are very helpfull.
I love your videos, i have look at the company 23 rear ej seal install tools, will these work for on the ez30? Its looks very similar. :) Love your work.
Just wondering. What happens if you drive the seal all the way in? Would that work too? Or does it have to be flush?
everything I'm hearing is telling me there's no way that would work and the seal would need to be carefully dug out of there. there is a spot for oil to drain through that gets blocked by a seal pushed all the way to the back. You would think there would be some kind of a lip or something to prevent this kind of screw up. One guy said he drilled through the seal with dry wall screws and then pulled it out nice and even (living dangerously it sounds like).
I made the mistake of seating the main seal too far in,blocking an oil passage
After starting motor the seal popped out. Lesson learned, seat seal just past outer
surface. If you do a lot of these Subaru main seals it might be worth
making a tool the screws onto the rear of the crank pressing the seal into
place. I have used sheet metal screws to pull old seals out, drill
pilot holes into seal and carefully install screws to used pull out seal. Subaru service tech told me a rear oil leak
is often caused by a bad seal on cover plate bolted next to end of crank not the main seal.
Thanks man 🤙
I have a question. EJ25 AT 2002 Legacy. Please help.
I am facing a problem of oil leaking from the rear crankshaft seal.
Most videos on this topic show the replacement of this seal by removing the engine. Is it possible to replace this seal without removing the engine, only by dismantling the AT? Disconnecting the axle shaft and rear differential shaft and dismantling the gearbox itself seem to require less work, if it is at all possible to get to the seal and replace it.
Please help, is it possible? ? ? ?
Yes gearbox out is a handy way to go anout rear seal. Take front shafts out of gearbox and leave in hub split ball joints just a little tip for you. Hope that answers your question 👍🏻
Does the replacement RMS go in as far as it can? How far should it go?
So if you nick the crank is there a Speedo sleeve to fix crank and where could I get one?
Is there any other seal around the torque converter that can be leaking. I have oil coming out around that area it’s not a heavy or slow leak. I don’t see exactly but see a stain coming from that area. Should this be something to worry about. There’s no oil stains left behind and my oil doesn’t seem to drop any in between oil changes and I check my oil one every two weeks or every weekend
I know this is an old video, but its worth a shot for a reply. I am installing the rear main and I finally got the seal seated evenly, and just below the outer lip. But, while tapping it in with a 1/4 drive extension, the rubber coating on the face of the seal has quite a bit of damage. I have made sure it is only on the face, and not on either edge. Is this going to be a problem, and if so, (Other than using the press tool), how can you seat one of these seals? The rubber seems extremely thin on the face, and I was not tapping with much force at all to drive it in. If anything, I may have been tapping too lightly (trying to avoid going too far).
Hi. I just bought a 06 Liberty (Legacy) 3.0R Spec B 6 speed. Do you know if there is a dual mass flywheel that I can fit? TIA
Sir were to purchase seal remove tool/ auto parts store or snap on tool truck purchase?
great video thank you
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Do you have any tips for replacing the rear main seal on an EJ25D in a '98 Outback?
I took my car to the garage for an oil leak, they looked at it and confirmed the rear main seal was leaking. Upon removing the gearbox, they found the seal had been replaced but had been put on the wrong way several years earlier which explained the oil leak. Some idiot must have done that seal
Idiots galore.
Did they install it backwards?
What does it mean when oil is leaking right out of the crank in the middle (rear main seal dry)? Does that indicate a warped crank? Not sure how to upload a picture.
Email to me. MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
Does the H6 not have the oil separator plate that is known to fail on the 4 cylinders? I didn't see it in this video. My H6 leaks from the rear as well so if all I need is a rear seal then I guess that's good news.
Correct.
Forgive my inexperience but what is that tool called that u used to take the seal off?
+chica F100 it's a Lisle shaft seal puller.
MrSubaru1387 thank u so much
+chica F100 you're welcome.
I use a tool called a drywall screw, just screw it in by hand(middle of the seal) and then pull the seal out with a pliers on the screw
Where is the oil separator plate ? Should be next to the main deal. Also if it’s leaking oil from main seal how long can you drive it before you have to replace ?
Oil/air separator plate is to the right of the rear main seal. On the back of the engine. You can drive it forever without replacing. Just depends on how much oil you want to waste and how much mess you want under the car.
@@MrSubaru1387I’m currently dealing with this issue now, burning 2 quarts every thousand miles(weeks worth of driving). How costly is a repair, more or less
I may have hit the seal abit too hard all around. The seal is not completely messed up but the marks from the 1/4 extension are clear...is this a problem?
+Jamie Chau it may not seal if I lit was struck too hard. Do you see any rips, deformity, etc?
No rips but one area is abit more deformed than i would want it. In an urgent situation can I just place rtv sealer or gasket maker around the seal?
+Jamie Chau no.. Unfortunately not. If you fear the seal is too damaged, you'll have to replace it again.
I had that lisle seal puller and found it ultimately useless bent the part that is supposed to grab the lip every time I used it I couldn’t get it to do anything. In the trash now
If you’re interested, we could send our full lineup of Subaru tools to test out.
Email me @ MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
Do you think you could make a video on older cruse control systems diagnosis. I haven't really seen a lot of info on the topic and it would probably be pretty useful to a lot of viewers
If youre having issues with yours check the sensors on the Brake pedal and Clutch
Also check the vacuum line on the cruise control it’s self
Theres a frickin long button that seats next to a hole on the top of the clutch pedal. You have to block the hole. Tape and a penny.
DO YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE TO REPLACE A REAR MAIN SEAL ? OR CAN YOU DO IT UNDERNEATH?
Yes. Engine has to be removed, or transmission has to be removed.
@@MrSubaru1387 replaced or dropped?
@@MrSubaru1387 whch one do you thin its the easiest removing the engine or transmission?
I have a small oil plus coolant leak from my rear seal on my 1999 Outback 30th anniversary model 2.5 185k miles, my radiator upper hose connection fell apart on the highway "who makes plastic radiator sides?!" And I hopped it home gas station to gas station, I never overheated it to the red point, the most hot it got was 2/3 up but after I put in a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, fluid, found out it was all because of a fan fuse was blown so the fan didn't turn on and the engine heat ran away, now I noticed droplets of oil looking like coolant might be mixed in under the car, it looks like it's coming from the rear of the oil pan, half of the pan is wet and the front half is dry, I drive twice a week only due to my disability and I can't afford a mechanic so I will have to address it myself. Any suggestions brother? I would be very thankful. Tom from Colorado
+TAVOR VICEROY VALDOR I'd start by spraying all the oil/coolant off of the oil pan/engine with some carb or brake parts cleaner. Then I'd watch to see what is leaking and from where. Being that it's just the rear of the oil pan that's wet, I'd guess it's just the pan seal leaking oil. The coolant is most likely residual from the leak/rupture you experienced.
MrSubaru1387 my God if that's all that it is I would be so grateful, I was thinking just that about the pan gasket but from experience I think off the best and prepare for the worse. I know it's a lot to ask brother but could you email me some diagrams I.e. Exploded view of the area and a step by step? I know it's a lot to ask but I would be grateful, disability sucks because I can't even afford a Hanes manual. God Bless you and your family. 😔tomasz.szpak1@gmail.com ♥️💙🇺🇸💙♥️
+TAVOR VICEROY VALDOR jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1999/Service%20Manual/ factory service manual. 👍
MrSubaru1387 thank you from the bottom of my heart! I don't know how to repay you brother. May I write you any questions along the way? I promise I won't email you too many times?
+TAVOR VICEROY VALDOR sure. Glad to help. 👍
Now let's say one got a little too happy replacing the seal and scratched the crank. What can be done?
+Walter Elkin cross your fingers and hope it doesn't leak. Honestly, I'd probably take some emery cloth or crocus cloth and try to smooth the area lightly. And then, hope it doesn't leak.
MrSubaru1387 I saw a company makes a sleeve to knock over called a speedi sleeve. Is there any way to check it won't leak without assembling the engine and trans?
+Walter Elkin not sure how you could test the seal without running the engine.
did you get the sleeve? Did it work? how did this situation work out for you?
Would this be the same on a 2010 wrx?
Yes.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you very much for the quick reply. I am suspecting that's why my clutch is slipping on Boost. Clutch is fairly new lots of life on the pad we scoped it today and found a bunch of oil in there
Rear main or oil/air separator plate I'd guess.
@@MrSubaru1387 might as well just do both while I'm in there do you have any pointers on the air oil separator?
ua-cam.com/video/4ieBhsdSFqg/v-deo.html
👈👍👍👍👍👍good
Can i subscribe more than once?
Why does your engine look mouldie? White spots and shit
Mighta come from 'up North' where a lot of salt is put on roads. Aluminum DOES corrode . . .
Not a good video. Putting the seal in that way f@$) it up.