You betcha! My first time watching in person a TQ on a cast intake go into the 10's on a small block stock stroke was when Earlville recently opened around '99
I had a '79 E58 that I 'super-tuned' the TQ on and it was nearly as responsive as FI. I got rid of the ESA and plugged those 2 'lean out' air bleeds in the front air horn. It's got a super wide adjustability range. For an 800-850cfm carb you could tune it to run on a 318 or 440 with minimal tinkering. I picked up so many of those carbs for cheap, even NOS and reman units for a song.
@@318willrunI'm a new subscriber and I love your channel I own a 1983 318 ram van b250 it now is my full time home the engine lost oil preasure so i have pulled it and I'm currently rebuilding it I've done away with all smog stuff my question to you is where did you find headers I've looked everywhere please help
Man I picked this intake LOL. Perhaps it's because I'm a bit of a TQ nut. I'll see if I can find a stock setup procedure I posted in comments for the TQ on another channel awhile ago. Worthy of note, on 383s & 440s this OEM TQ intake kills top end more so than on LAs. You'd expect that though. I also found the big blocks that have been modded, the OEM TQ intake gains in the lower midrange to be not worth the losses over 4500rpm - however on a stock 2bbl 383, the OEM TQ intake upgrade is extremely impressive even with the stock crappy exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking you might know all this, others could benefit though. Some important *base* adjustments fot the TQ (sorry for the metric I use both but I prefer Metric for this): *The primary metering rods base adjustment - unscrew the T bar screw until the T-bar/piston assembly bottoms out, then screw 1.5 turns in to lift the rods. *Secondary air valve adjustment - hold the air valve wide open and bend that tab so there is 12mm (use a drill bit) between the top edge of the air door and the airhorn. *the secondary air valve dashpot (the small vac cannister behind the choke), apply vacuum so it is fully retracted. The secondary air valve should be able to move 1mm. If it doesn't, bend the dashpot link rod, if it has more than 1mm bend the rod link so it has 1mm. This is an important adjustment as it starts the air moving past the air valve. *Secondary air door tension, undo the lock ring, unscrew the door tension so it hangs, then slowly tighten until it just closes, THEN screw in 1.25 turns, hold it there and use another screwdriver to nip up the lock ring then a bigger one to properly tighten it. Also the accelerator pump is designed by Carter to squirt twice, once on the primaries and again when the secondary throttle valves (not air valve) open. To get it to do this requires a sequential adjustment procedure and this post would get even longer. It also requires the correct length pump plunger. There is sometimes an incorrect part listing that specifies a shorter pump plunger than OEM and this renders the second squirt function impossible. Note, if the secondary air door opens fully it is often too lean possibly even on a stock 440. They're actually not supposed to be wide opened for correct operation (though they certainly can be when modded for max performance). These are just *base* adjustments
I love mine. I'm running a 71 340 intake with a matching thermoquad I love it. I'm still learning to tune it but I love it! I have another later one with the egr like you got there stored away as well as a 68 avs intake. I also have a speedmaster and edelbrock sb intake I bought for later. The speedmaster we all bought at the same time on black Friday a few years ago! I got one you and jpar got one too! Lol the eddy I got from the forum. The speedmaster im saving for my magnum the eddy ill probably wind up selling lol cool video keep up the good work!
you would have though they = aftermarket company would have made an exact copy of that intake but in aluminum version . im going to be running a thermoquad on my air gap intake. i use to have one of those old cast iron intakes years ago. if you run it block off the heat cross over port
Money very well spent my good man. You can spend a few hundred dollars for pretty and shiny. Unless it's flat out race I use stock manifolds. A Holley 600, 700 or 850 works great. Bad thing about Holley they are no longer making carbs for the stock Mopar linkage.
I gotta admit, while being surrounded by high performance aftermarket intakes, you definitely surprised me with what you had! Talk about sb mopar intakes, in the late '70s my not yet father-in-law had a '73 Dodge Charger (SE?) That was blue with a white vinyl quarter top that enveloped the scalloped B windows, a four speed and a factory 340 magnum with the power bulge hood. This was when you had to balance feeding your muscle car or feeding your large family, so he pulled the intake and thermoquad off and installed a junkyard 2-barrel intake and carb... all 15 years before I started courting his daughter, so of course everything mopar was long gone before I met him...
Good stuff as always mate! I had one and went to a Torker 11 for the street in a 318. You are correct in my humble view, the iron 4 bbl intake is a good piece. Also, just sending money on names or formulas { without some understanding and plan/ goal } will end in suboptimal results. I really like my Torker 11 by the way. Have fun and enjoy the last of the warm times, before Winter?
I have an Eddie Performer intake, it's a nice-looking intake for a 318, but really that's all it is. It's not any better than that stock one you bought for 20 bucks. I traded a broken air compressor for it to a friend, because he needed the good parts off it to fix his.
@318willrun My Aunt bought a X cop car in the mid 80s. It was a Diplomat and came with all the service history from the dealer. All the paperwork said it was a 318 Magnum. Then l was told by a very knowledgeable Mopar gear head that it was not a Magnum. It was standard for the Dealer to out fit a 318 with 360 heads, cam, intake, exhaust manifolds and a bigger carb and call it a Magnum. A good friend of mine was a cop in Texas and drove a new one in the 80s. He said it had a top speed of 140 mph . What do you know about this? Are the lower end and oiling systems good for hard running like that . Oh and he was chasing bank robbers in a 86 Toyota Supra Turbo ...they got away.
@@larrybone4565 I've bought a couple of ex-cop Diplomats, mostly to part out because there wasn't much value back then. The 318's were LA 318's, some with the factory 4bbl, others just 2bbl. Your friend was correct, the first 318 magnum was in '92. The 360 police Diplomats were highly respected by law enforcement in the day. The 318 did well also. They were certainly heavier and geared for the highway, so the 318's weren't super quick from 0-40 mph.
@@Grandadsjunk I've owned one and didn't work on it. There is some support for aftermarket pieces, and I know "some" of the LA stuff can interchange but I'm not a wealth of knowledge on the poly's. Maybe someday one will come my way and I'll venture down the Poly road!!!!
Great video! Most of my past Mopar's have been big block's, but my best performing 340 was a stock 340 cast iron with thermoquad, my demon had a edelbrock 340 torker with 750 double pumper Holley, I wasn't impressed, put a AVS edelbrock on it and it was more streetable but nothing like the thermoquad that was on my 73 cuda.👍
I hate thinking of all the stuff that I've thrown in the alley and scrapped in the 1970s and '80s- but you have to have somewhere to keep it all. I rented a garage between the early 1970s and living in apartments all the way up until about 6 years ago even though I finally owned my own home and garage since 2002. Never enough room for it for most of us.
That was the problem I had too. I was renting 2 or 3 10x20 and 2 10x30 units plus another garage and it was costing me $400+ every month. About 6 years ago I sold and brought as much home as I could (my garage is 2.5 car) and threw out a TON of stuff like a madman to just cleanup. Then months or years later I was like 'I had one of those...somewhere.' I still don't know what happened to some on the stuff I had.
Good score, nothing wrong with Thermoquads. I guessed right when I saw the title of you video I figured that was what you picked up, I have been trying to pick up one around here but people want $100 and up on my Marketplace. Strangely enough I can buy a big block one for $50 or less but everyone wants $100 and up for the small block ones. I would have thought it would have been the other way around. A little cleaning and paint and you are in business. A lot of people are scared of them and don't have a clue how to set them up and would rather piss big money on fancy intakes and carbs spending $500 rather than $50.
Joe was just telling me about a Challenger with a simple sounding combination that runs way faster than anybody would expect. Someday I’d like in on the secrets
Not a lot of secrets. When most don't get what they want for the ET number, they simply buy "Mo-Parts" 🤣 But if you work with what ya got, there is always more in it!
Put the 4 barrel on . Gas mileage! Just have to keep your foot out of it. You know I had Duster I put a 318 in (cause the 340 went Boom) put a crower cams in it had a 510 lift and I got 20s with that. Sounds like bull but but you drove down the road nice it would do good. I just wish I had kept the card so I could get another cam like that cause it was a sweet cam. You missed a gear it would peg the tack. Good luck Tim ! I got lost in old times again.
Love your channel!!! I have a 77 Dodge B100. It's a 318 that came with all the smog goodies. If you were going to do a light tune to it, what would you do? It has been in my family since new :) I've put a cast 4 barrel intake on it and it has dual exhaust and I'm currently running a street demon 625. I'm not super keen to open the motor (doesn't burn much oil, but the rear main seal is leaking). But would love your thoughts :) Thanks!
Thanks! If you didn't want to open the motor much, I'd put in a quality timing chain (like a edelbrock double roller won't break the bank) and I'd pull the pan from the underneath and replace the rear main seal (just loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine about 1.5 inches). Then, I'd curve the distributor for best initial/total, all in by 3k rpm's. Make sure the heat riser flap on the passenger side exhaust manifold is not froze shut! And honestly, I'd do a compression test and if all cylinders weren't 120 psi or more, I'd pull the heads and do a valve job.
@@318willrun Thanks for the reply! I'll look into that stuff. I also meant to say it has headers, so the heat riser isn't an issue. According to the owners manual (I still have that), it's 8.5:1 compression. Is the engine in your 77 shorty still low compression like that? Thanks again. I may have to start a channel for my rig! I'd post a pic here, but not sure that would work 😃
I'm no expert, and I get what you're saying, but unless you mean the 1/8 mile, I think it'll take more than just an intake to get ya down into the 10's. I like you're enthusiasm bro.
Well yea! He just means that intake on an engine built to go 10s went 10s. Lol your not gonna bolt that on a stock 318 2bbl and run 10s. But a built small block with that intake can make enough to run 10s
Just got one when i bought my la 360 im rebuilding, now youve got me second guessing on whether to use it or the wealand stealth ive had on que ready, ha, thanks for vids as always
That is exactly what I'm running on my 273.Did the egr mod and built a TQ but have a Carter Competition series AFB right now while I change baseplate on the TQ,got a little wear on the throttle shaft,I built it out of 4 different carbs and thought I had picked the best baseplate but gotta back up and punt lol.
My first intake manifold purchase was a victor 340, and when i was leaving parts store I heard That is the intake manifold you should get, "The LD-340". owner raced 340 stock class Duster. I thought $250 was expensive.besides I had the race intake...........
@@waggitnshaggit6592 318 ports are smaller but don't sweat it none. Been there and done it more times than I can remember and always worked great/performed great!
The fasted car in F.A.S.T. is a Duster 71 but....... that car have a Big small block 434 CI solid roller and huge compression haha... ok stock heads, stock intake, a TQ carb but all is full ported ando custom work
@@joelmcgee4405I dont. $1700 bucks for an intake??? Your not worried about that coming to your state/nation. Just pretend it will never happen, yeah thats a plan....
@@318willrun tell me about it. its sadly the TP is the only good single plane they make for these engines, a performer can be had for 500 or so but they wont suit my build.
@@318willrun I have a technique on Facebook marketplace where i save listing alerts like an car vulture! But that truck was some kid, I sold parts too him for his truck he pulled the head off the slant six and gave up on it and told me to come get this crap before he burns it down I didn't even ask for pictures. For $200, I just asked for the address!!
I have one from 1984. Both sides have holes in the bottom. The lower floor seems like it goes in to the lifter valley. It has a plat on the bottom side of the intake manifold. Does that seem right? I am planning on plugging both holes, but i have no idea why they would do that.
Do they make a intake that will bolt on the 318 magnum that is set up for a carb. If so where or what do i look for or is drilling the heads the only way.i am trying to put a modern 5.2 in a older truck that i dont want fuel injection.
Yes, I am running one now on my truck! One is the edelbrock RPM for the magnum and the other, cheaper version is the speedmaster dual purpose., magnum or LA
Do you believe the Eddy Airgap actually runs cooler than the cast iron 340 manifold Tim? I ask because i run a factory cast iron with a Tquad and sometimes it will heat soak the gas and cause it to be hard to start when parked after running kinda hard for a while.
@@318willrun ah ok i suspected it will. Yes i did block the crossover, i also have a return line and a spacer under the Tquad but there are still times after i run her say 30 min or an hour on a hot day she will heat soak and boil the gas in the carb
@@Ridendrty the TQ was actually one of the best carbs to fight heat soak with the phenolic resin body. They claim it keeps fuel 20% cooler. I'm surprised with the heat crossover blocked and the TQ it would be a problem!
For 2 years I was looking for a stock cast iron mopar small block 4bbl intake. I kept finding them for $150.00 or more, the cheapest one I found was $75.00, but it was gone within an hour after it was posted. I went ahead and got the speedmaster airgap. I run across the deals you're talking about now. But it seems they're all in the mid west. For some reason anything within convenient traveling distance in the mid atlantic area is way overpriced. 🙄
I like the Thermoquad intakes the best. I don't care if they come of a 318, 340 or 360. The only advantage of the earlier ones is no EGR on it. But flow and performance would be the same
Thermoquads are top of the food chain.
You betcha! My first time watching in person a TQ on a cast intake go into the 10's on a small block stock stroke was when Earlville recently opened around '99
I prefer a quadrajet.
I had a '79 E58 that I 'super-tuned' the TQ on and it was nearly as responsive as FI. I got rid of the ESA and plugged those 2 'lean out' air bleeds in the front air horn. It's got a super wide adjustability range. For an 800-850cfm carb you could tune it to run on a 318 or 440 with minimal tinkering. I picked up so many of those carbs for cheap, even NOS and reman units for a song.
QJ's are 'OK' but have puny float bowls.@@Shade_tree_garage01
@@318willrunI'm a new subscriber and I love your channel I own a 1983 318 ram van b250 it now is my full time home the engine lost oil preasure so i have pulled it and I'm currently rebuilding it I've done away with all smog stuff my question to you is where did you find headers I've looked everywhere please help
Man I picked this intake LOL.
Perhaps it's because I'm a bit of a TQ nut. I'll see if I can find a stock setup procedure I posted in comments for the TQ on another channel awhile ago.
Worthy of note, on 383s & 440s this OEM TQ intake kills top end more so than on LAs. You'd expect that though.
I also found the big blocks that have been modded, the OEM TQ intake gains in the lower midrange to be not worth the losses over 4500rpm - however on a stock 2bbl 383, the OEM TQ intake upgrade is extremely impressive even with the stock crappy exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking you might know all this, others could benefit though.
Some important *base* adjustments fot the TQ (sorry for the metric I use both but I prefer Metric for this):
*The primary metering rods base adjustment - unscrew the T bar screw until the T-bar/piston assembly bottoms out, then screw 1.5 turns in to lift the rods.
*Secondary air valve adjustment - hold the air valve wide open and bend that tab so there is 12mm (use a drill bit) between the top edge of the air door and the airhorn.
*the secondary air valve dashpot (the small vac cannister behind the choke), apply vacuum so it is fully retracted. The secondary air valve should be able to move 1mm. If it doesn't, bend the dashpot link rod, if it has more than 1mm bend the rod link so it has 1mm. This is an important adjustment as it starts the air moving past the air valve.
*Secondary air door tension, undo the lock ring, unscrew the door tension so it hangs, then slowly tighten until it just closes, THEN screw in 1.25 turns, hold it there and use another screwdriver to nip up the lock ring then a bigger one to properly tighten it.
Also the accelerator pump is designed by Carter to squirt twice, once on the primaries and again when the secondary throttle valves (not air valve) open. To get it to do this requires a sequential adjustment procedure and this post would get even longer.
It also requires the correct length pump plunger. There is sometimes an incorrect part listing that specifies a shorter pump plunger than OEM and this renders the second squirt function impossible.
Note, if the secondary air door opens fully it is often too lean possibly even on a stock 440. They're actually not supposed to be wide opened for correct operation (though they certainly can be when modded for max performance).
These are just *base* adjustments
I love mine. I'm running a 71 340 intake with a matching thermoquad I love it. I'm still learning to tune it but I love it! I have another later one with the egr like you got there stored away as well as a 68 avs intake. I also have a speedmaster and edelbrock sb intake I bought for later. The speedmaster we all bought at the same time on black Friday a few years ago! I got one you and jpar got one too! Lol the eddy I got from the forum. The speedmaster im saving for my magnum the eddy ill probably wind up selling lol cool video keep up the good work!
You got a good combo! Thanks!
Even if you get tired of the tq. You can get or make a adaptor plate and mount any thing you want.
Absolutely!
DEALS ARE EVERYWHERE. Just gotta look!
Correct!
you would have though they = aftermarket company would have made an exact copy of that intake but in aluminum version . im going to be running a thermoquad on my air gap intake. i use to have one of those old cast iron intakes years ago. if you run it block off the heat cross over port
They came close with a couple of intakes! Thanks!
Thanks for the information, sometimes stock is neat.
I port those mid 80’s intakes and cut down the divider. They run great !! I’m also a huge fan of the torker2 after it’s been worked over.
Yes, if I know I'm going to run a square bore carb, I like to cut the divider to better match the carb.
I slowed down with the torker 2 vs the original.
@@karlsracing8422 Not surprised!
Money very well spent my good man. You can spend a few hundred dollars for pretty and shiny. Unless it's flat out race I use stock manifolds. A Holley 600, 700 or 850 works great. Bad thing about Holley they are no longer making carbs for the stock Mopar linkage.
I gotta admit, while being surrounded by high performance aftermarket intakes, you definitely surprised me with what you had! Talk about sb mopar intakes, in the late '70s my not yet father-in-law had a '73 Dodge Charger (SE?) That was blue with a white vinyl quarter top that enveloped the scalloped B windows, a four speed and a factory 340 magnum with the power bulge hood. This was when you had to balance feeding your muscle car or feeding your large family, so he pulled the intake and thermoquad off and installed a junkyard 2-barrel intake and carb... all 15 years before I started courting his daughter, so of course everything mopar was long gone before I met him...
So many things throughout the years changed the cars and parts we seek today! Thanks for sharing!
Good stuff as always mate! I had one and went to a Torker 11 for the street in a 318. You are correct in my humble view, the iron 4 bbl intake is a good piece. Also, just sending money on names or formulas { without some understanding and plan/ goal } will end in suboptimal results. I really like my Torker 11 by the way. Have fun and enjoy the last of the warm times, before Winter?
Thanks!! Winter will be moving in quickly!
I have an Eddie Performer intake, it's a nice-looking intake for a 318, but really that's all it is. It's not any better than that stock one you bought for 20 bucks. I traded a broken air compressor for it to a friend, because he needed the good parts off it to fix his.
The eddie performer is a good intake too, but you are right it will not outperform the factory cast piece! Thanks!!!
I have been looking for one of those. Of course I saw a few of them before i wanted one.
You'll find one! Thanks!
A body 360 , you called all the reasons
I just found your channel.
Great content , keep up the good work.
I plan on building a 318 in the next year and not spending a lot of money.
Glad you are here !!!!
@318willrun
My Aunt bought a X cop car in the mid 80s. It was a Diplomat and came with all the service history from the dealer.
All the paperwork said it was a 318 Magnum. Then l was told by a very knowledgeable Mopar gear head that it was not a Magnum. It was standard for the Dealer to out fit a 318 with 360 heads, cam, intake, exhaust manifolds and a bigger carb and call it a Magnum.
A good friend of mine was a cop in Texas and drove a new one in the 80s.
He said it had a top speed of 140 mph .
What do you know about this?
Are the lower end and oiling systems good for hard running like that .
Oh and he was chasing bank robbers in a 86 Toyota Supra Turbo ...they got away.
@@larrybone4565 I've bought a couple of ex-cop Diplomats, mostly to part out because there wasn't much value back then. The 318's were LA 318's, some with the factory 4bbl, others just 2bbl. Your friend was correct, the first 318 magnum was in '92. The 360 police Diplomats were highly respected by law enforcement in the day. The 318 did well also. They were certainly heavier and geared for the highway, so the 318's weren't super quick from 0-40 mph.
@@318willrun
I am going to build the same 318 that l described. What other upgrades do I need?
@@larrybone4565 If you are using 360 heads with stock 318 pistons, I would consider milling the heads down about .040 to help with compression.
Thanks for the vid very interesting I try modifications on my cast inlet on my poly 318 rather than spending heaps on a alliuminiam one
Thanks!
@@318willrun hey brother hood you do a lot of work on sb mopar engines what about the poly motor
@@Grandadsjunk I've owned one and didn't work on it. There is some support for aftermarket pieces, and I know "some" of the LA stuff can interchange but I'm not a wealth of knowledge on the poly's. Maybe someday one will come my way and I'll venture down the Poly road!!!!
Great video! Most of my past Mopar's have been big block's, but my best performing 340 was a stock 340 cast iron with thermoquad, my demon had a edelbrock 340 torker with 750 double pumper Holley, I wasn't impressed, put a AVS edelbrock on it and it was more streetable but nothing like the thermoquad that was on my 73 cuda.👍
"nothing like a thermoquad" ..... quote ^^ 👍
I hate thinking of all the stuff that I've thrown in the alley and scrapped in the 1970s and '80s- but you have to have somewhere to keep it all. I rented a garage between the early 1970s and living in apartments all the way up until about 6 years ago even though I finally owned my own home and garage since 2002. Never enough room for it for most of us.
Yep, so much was scrapped but the parts were so much more common that there wasn't a lot of guilt at the time!
That was the problem I had too. I was renting 2 or 3 10x20 and 2 10x30 units plus another garage and it was costing me $400+ every month. About 6 years ago I sold and brought as much home as I could (my garage is 2.5 car) and threw out a TON of stuff like a madman to just cleanup. Then months or years later I was like 'I had one of those...somewhere.' I still don't know what happened to some on the stuff I had.
Thanks so much for the info. You just saved me a bunch of $$.
You talk my language 👍🏻🇦🇺💯⛽️.
Good score, nothing wrong with Thermoquads. I guessed right when I saw the title of you video I figured that was what you picked up, I have been trying to pick up one around here but people want $100 and up on my Marketplace. Strangely enough I can buy a big block one for $50 or less but everyone wants $100 and up for the small block ones. I would have thought it would have been the other way around. A little cleaning and paint and you are in business. A lot of people are scared of them and don't have a clue how to set them up and would rather piss big money on fancy intakes and carbs spending $500 rather than $50.
I think it may be because more big blocks came with 4bbls, so they are more common. Thanks!
I've always loved the thermoquad
I have too.
What year intake is it? Heard the 71 was the best of the bunch.
I"m not sure the year, but it has the EGR so a smog era one.
If you share the part numbers I can figure it out.
@@markhenke6043 it's not at the house, but the guy raced a '80 truck stock eliminator so very well could be a "80
Also I'm running J heads on the 273 with a .30 overbore.Stock exhaust manifolds restrict the exhaust ports of the J heads on my 65 Dart GT 273
nice !
Joe was just telling me about a Challenger with a simple sounding combination that runs way faster than anybody would expect. Someday I’d like in on the secrets
Not a lot of secrets. When most don't get what they want for the ET number, they simply buy "Mo-Parts" 🤣 But if you work with what ya got, there is always more in it!
Finding decent Thermoquads for small block is difficult up here in canada.
Actually, they are getting tough to get everywhere (decent ones that its)
I smell a give away on the way! I want that shirt!! Lol!!! 😂😂
😂
yes swap that 2 barrel Tim, we would like that video,
I'm trying so hard not to "hot rod" the van.... but.... 🤣
@@318willrun hot rod it
rod it, a little!
@@MsKatjie burn the tires off it Tim lol we are not trying to help him any lol
Put the 4 barrel on . Gas mileage! Just have to keep your foot out of it. You know I had Duster I put a 318 in (cause the 340 went Boom) put a crower cams in it had a 510 lift and I got 20s with that. Sounds like bull but but you drove down the road nice it would do good. I just wish I had kept the card so I could get another cam like that cause it was a sweet cam. You missed a gear it would peg the tack. Good luck Tim ! I got lost in old times again.
Love your channel!!!
I have a 77 Dodge B100. It's a 318 that came with all the smog goodies. If you were going to do a light tune to it, what would you do? It has been in my family since new :)
I've put a cast 4 barrel intake on it and it has dual exhaust and I'm currently running a street demon 625. I'm not super keen to open the motor (doesn't burn much oil, but the rear main seal is leaking). But would love your thoughts :)
Thanks!
Thanks! If you didn't want to open the motor much, I'd put in a quality timing chain (like a edelbrock double roller won't break the bank) and I'd pull the pan from the underneath and replace the rear main seal (just loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine about 1.5 inches). Then, I'd curve the distributor for best initial/total, all in by 3k rpm's. Make sure the heat riser flap on the passenger side exhaust manifold is not froze shut! And honestly, I'd do a compression test and if all cylinders weren't 120 psi or more, I'd pull the heads and do a valve job.
@@318willrun Thanks for the reply! I'll look into that stuff. I also meant to say it has headers, so the heat riser isn't an issue.
According to the owners manual (I still have that), it's 8.5:1 compression. Is the engine in your 77 shorty still low compression like that? Thanks again. I may have to start a channel for my rig! I'd post a pic here, but not sure that would work 😃
I just picked up a couple of 4 barrel intakes for $25 each
Yep! We cannot let these performance parts cut into our hamburger money !!!!
@@318willrun I know that's right! 🍔😁!
Heavy power maker!
Need a strong back and a weak mind to install one is all ..... 🤣
I'm no expert, and I get what you're saying, but unless you mean the 1/8 mile, I think it'll take more than just an intake to get ya down into the 10's. I like you're enthusiasm bro.
Well yea! He just means that intake on an engine built to go 10s went 10s. Lol your not gonna bolt that on a stock 318 2bbl and run 10s. But a built small block with that intake can make enough to run 10s
If the rest of the combo is built to run 10's, the intake will take you there as part of the combo. Thanks!
Sometimes cheaper is better!
It can be for sure!
I got a 340 cast intake on my 318 in a 74 dodge dart sport thought about changeing it but it runs strong
Just got one when i bought my la 360 im rebuilding, now youve got me second guessing on whether to use it or the wealand stealth ive had on que ready, ha, thanks for vids as always
Both are good intakes! I have a Stealth as well!
That is exactly what I'm running on my 273.Did the egr mod and built a TQ but have a Carter Competition series AFB right now while I change baseplate on the TQ,got a little wear on the throttle shaft,I built it out of 4 different carbs and thought I had picked the best baseplate but gotta back up and punt lol.
Sounds like a fun project!!
@318willrun she is but I need help decoding it.Any suggestions on who might help me?
@@samuelgoodman2825 There are some pretty good numbers guys on Forabodiesonly.com, if you haven't already tried there.
My first intake manifold purchase was a victor 340, and when i was leaving parts store I heard That is the intake manifold you should get, "The LD-340". owner raced 340 stock class Duster. I thought $250 was expensive.besides I had the race intake...........
Both are great intakes in their perspective uses
I have been telling people that is a good intake and not to throw it away for decades.
Right on !!
I like your thinking. Question have a cast 340 4bbl intake can Irun that on my 318 in my 1985 W150
Thanks! And yep, it will work just fine!
@@318willrun ok cool are the ports on the 318 smaller or not enough to matter?
@@waggitnshaggit6592 318 ports are smaller but don't sweat it none. Been there and done it more times than I can remember and always worked great/performed great!
@@318willrun appreciate it lm gonna buy a blaze orange 318WR hoodie for hunting
The mighty thermoquad !!!
It was a warrior!
You gotta have strong arms from slinging the cast iron intake. Great flowing. Their performance makes up for the weight penalty
I agree!
No mention of the LD340, LD4B, or the M1 dual plane which have a similar design to the factory one.
Those are all great intakes. I've owned LD340's. But next to impossible to grab them for 20 bucks, or even 220 bucks!
The fasted car in F.A.S.T. is a Duster 71 but....... that car have a Big small block 434 CI solid roller and huge compression haha... ok stock heads, stock intake, a TQ carb but all is full ported ando custom work
F.A.S.T. class is a lot of changes and high dollar parts! But they do run "looking" stock!!
👍👍👍
✔ J-A-Y-B-O
300 dollar intake is the expensive way over there? fml, here in Australia a decent torque power manifold is about to cost me 1700 bucks.
OUCH!!!
Why??? you gave up your guns. Its disgusting what happened to you guys and Canada and Europe. But you voted for it. Good luck
@will7its How do you know which way HE voted? SMH! Let's turn engine talk into politics!🤪
@@joelmcgee4405I dont. $1700 bucks for an intake??? Your not worried about that coming to your state/nation. Just pretend it will never happen, yeah thats a plan....
@@318willrun tell me about it. its sadly the TP is the only good single plane they make for these engines, a performer can be had for 500 or so but they wont suit my build.
I bought a China air gap for my magnum on ebay for $150!! They go up and down weekly.
Yes! I bought 3 of them on Black Friday sale directly from Speedmaster for 135 bucks shipped! They offered 40% off on Black Friday
@@318willrunim gunna grab up a bunch then! Hey I bought an 84 d100 yesterday with a slant six in It for $200!!!!!!
@@somewhatfast Awesome! You get the best deals on cars of anyone I know!
@@318willrun I have a technique on Facebook marketplace where i save listing alerts like an car vulture! But that truck was some kid, I sold parts too him for his truck he pulled the head off the slant six and gave up on it and told me to come get this crap before he burns it down I didn't even ask for pictures. For $200, I just asked for the address!!
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got my for free, it was laying in a corner of a garage
hard to beat free!
Won't be $20 any more. Thanks. 😂 😝
😂
lol
Will the LA intakes fit on the magnum motors?
No, not without the magnum heads being drilled for the LA intake
I have one from 1984. Both sides have holes in the bottom. The lower floor seems like it goes in to the lifter valley. It has a plat on the bottom side of the intake manifold. Does that seem right? I am planning on plugging both holes, but i have no idea why they would do that.
sounds correct, emissions stuff.....
Do they make a intake that will bolt on the 318 magnum that is set up for a carb. If so where or what do i look for or is drilling the heads the only way.i am trying to put a modern 5.2 in a older truck that i dont want fuel injection.
Yes, I am running one now on my truck! One is the edelbrock RPM for the magnum and the other, cheaper version is the speedmaster dual purpose., magnum or LA
Heavy intake,they can work but why when the ag rpm is a great piece and you pull any muscles lifting it 😆
About the only reason I can think of besides class rules in a race would be the 420 vs 20 bucks!
Do you believe the Eddy Airgap actually runs cooler than the cast iron 340 manifold Tim? I ask because i run a factory cast iron with a Tquad and sometimes it will heat soak the gas and cause it to be hard to start when parked after running kinda hard for a while.
The air gap will run cooler for sure. Have you blocked off the heat crossover on the cast intake?
@@318willrun ah ok i suspected it will. Yes i did block the crossover, i also have a return line and a spacer under the Tquad but there are still times after i run her say 30 min or an hour on a hot day she will heat soak and boil the gas in the carb
@@Ridendrty the TQ was actually one of the best carbs to fight heat soak with the phenolic resin body. They claim it keeps fuel 20% cooler. I'm surprised with the heat crossover blocked and the TQ it would be a problem!
@@318willrun yea me too Tim.. i have ran this same set up without trouble before.thanks man.
Do you have a return line fuel filter?
Are the 68-69 340 intakes any good?
Yep!
For 2 years I was looking for a stock cast iron mopar small block 4bbl intake.
I kept finding them for $150.00 or more, the cheapest one I found was $75.00, but it was gone within an hour after it was posted.
I went ahead and got the speedmaster airgap.
I run across the deals you're talking about now. But it seems they're all in the mid west.
For some reason anything within convenient traveling distance in the mid atlantic area is way overpriced.
🙄
That's how I feel about cars! All the good deals are 600 miles from me! Nothing ever in my area! Thanks!
What can specs?
sorry, not sure I understand the question...
@@318willrun I'm sorry not to be more specific. Curious about the cam specs on your truck and Van engines
@@PatrickDelgadillo-r9q Vans are stock cams. Truck has a Oregon regrind about .530 lift and smaller duration.
Are maybe 71 cast iron was better than later ones. Not for sure, bet you know.
Forgot what year was best cast iron intake.
360 and 340 intakes are best.
Ok, was thinking one out performed the others. Thanks
I like the Thermoquad intakes the best. I don't care if they come of a 318, 340 or 360. The only advantage of the earlier ones is no EGR on it. But flow and performance would be the same
Thanks Tim for the info