Two videos I recommend watching: EWP Training Module F: Glulam Beam and Header Applications Surprising facts about Glulam Engineered Beams Another would be the Rule of Thumb For sizing GluLam beams.
Very Nice. In the future I plan to do some glued laminated Oak beams with my sawmill lumber. Had planned to dowel rather than nail. And yes I can plane smooth before gluing. Biggest thing now is getting them dried. Right now I have a 17" squared up Cant 10' long, (17"x 17" x 10')on the mill. It took a bobcat and 5 series tractor to set the log on the mill. And I have more than 10 left to do.
Excellent point! I once built a 4 ply 20" lvl beam 48' long. Built it in place but there was still a fair bit of swearing getting the single 48' boards into place
on a span that requires staggered joints, is there a simple little calculator app to optimize the lengths so that you leave long enough spans in the stagger, get the most out of your offcuts and availiable lengths, bias joints above teleposts and anything else you might want to consider? I was tasked with the layout yesterday and I just couldn't do it, it was my first time and its noisy on site and If someone seems me sitting there concentrating they will holler at me for help as sure as the sun rises.
@@toolaholicsanonymous I tried looking up "beam calculator, and beam layout and there's some that help you with the load and deflection and how strong it needs to be but I can't find any for just the cut layout.
@paullabossiere5239 not beam calculator. Just calculator. You've gotta check your building code and with the engineer to see if there's a minimum distance from the support. But generally you wanna try and keep your joints within 18" of the columns or minimum 4' apart. If you're this new and were asked to do it. Just ask the person who asked you to do it. Get the right answers instead of building it twice.
@@bricology glue isn't required. Glue costs money. And then costs more money to apply. Don't glue things that don't need to be glued. It's the difference between carpentry and arts and crafts.
Nice information, never thought about that many nails before. Do you have a good way to create a beam that needs to be 15 feet wide that will lay between two steel beams? I was thinking about just butting or 4" notching the two 2x6x8's and another 2x6x8 in the middle between the two and make it 15 feet. However, it needs to be able to hold about 60 lbs. in the middle. Do think that will work or do you have a few ideas. Thank you for any advice.
Use 16' lumber. How heavy of a beam you need depends on a lot of things. I've never heard of a beam that only needs to support 60 pounds. Either consult an engineer or over build the crap out of it. Structural failures kill
Thanks for the reply. I guess I should be more clear sorry. I have a big storage unit. Between the steel door is 15 feet. I want to hang a big light down from the ceiling. But I have to put it on a pulley system so it can be unplugged if I need to open the storage door. I have even though about using two 10x4x4’s and grove them. I guess it would not be a real support beam 😂. Thank you.
Do you mean variations in board width? No you don't need to plane them. In fact if you're using pressure treated lumber you ruin it if you do. Generally you really don't need to worry about it. You've probably got joists that are going to sit on top on 16" centers that will probably miss it. Your joists are probably going to be a little irregular too. And on the bottom of the beam it probably is going to only be sitting on the ends. If you've got a spot that's really out of sorts just split the difference top and bottom. If you've got a bad little hump where you want to sit a joist just smash it with your hammer. This is rough framing not finish carpentry.
@desertmoonlightcottage3387 people generally are more interested in assisting when you offer to pay them. This job was at the bottom of 56 steps. Old deck had to go up new deck had to go down. Makes a hell of a lot of sense to have someone working who gets paid half what I do considering the amount of dumb labor involved.
Mmm.... I dunno about that. This is no sub for LVL. All you did was nail two boards together my dude and it took you 8 mins to do so. And you have an assistant lol.
Got any other cool tips for laminating beams? Add them here.
Two videos I recommend watching:
EWP Training Module F: Glulam Beam and Header Applications
Surprising facts about Glulam Engineered Beams
Another would be the Rule of Thumb For sizing GluLam beams.
Very Nice.
In the future I plan to do some glued laminated Oak beams with my sawmill lumber.
Had planned to dowel rather than nail.
And yes I can plane smooth before gluing. Biggest thing now is getting them dried.
Right now I have a 17" squared up Cant 10' long, (17"x 17" x 10')on the mill.
It took a bobcat and 5 series tractor to set the log on the mill.
And I have more than 10 left to do.
Laminating boards together - be sure you can manage it when you are finished. Especially important if you are working alone.
Excellent point! I once built a 4 ply 20" lvl beam 48' long. Built it in place but there was still a fair bit of swearing getting the single 48' boards into place
on a span that requires staggered joints, is there a simple little calculator app to optimize the lengths so that you leave long enough spans in the stagger, get the most out of your offcuts and availiable lengths, bias joints above teleposts and anything else you might want to consider? I was tasked with the layout yesterday and I just couldn't do it, it was my first time and its noisy on site and If someone seems me sitting there concentrating they will holler at me for help as sure as the sun rises.
@paullabossiere5239 yes you can use the calculator app on your phone.
@@toolaholicsanonymous I tried looking up "beam calculator, and beam layout and there's some that help you with the load and deflection and how strong it needs to be but I can't find any for just the cut layout.
@paullabossiere5239 not beam calculator. Just calculator. You've gotta check your building code and with the engineer to see if there's a minimum distance from the support. But generally you wanna try and keep your joints within 18" of the columns or minimum 4' apart.
If you're this new and were asked to do it. Just ask the person who asked you to do it. Get the right answers instead of building it twice.
Why would you NOT glue it as well? Doing so doesn't only ensure a better bond between layers, it also prevents the ingress of water, pests, etc.
@@bricology glue isn't required. Glue costs money. And then costs more money to apply.
Don't glue things that don't need to be glued.
It's the difference between carpentry and arts and crafts.
Good note about 30 degree gun setting for 3-1/4 inch nails.
Thanks! Pretty much everything is the way it is for a reason
Will this work for a 3-ply 2x6 post? Should screws and glue be used for a post?
Yes it'll work fine. No for screws and glue.
Voice is very soothing lol
@@eduardo042906 hahaha don't think I've ever been told that before
Nice information, never thought about that many nails before. Do you have a good way to create a beam that needs to be 15 feet wide that will lay between two steel beams? I was thinking about just butting or 4" notching the two 2x6x8's and another 2x6x8 in the middle between the two and make it 15 feet. However, it needs to be able to hold about 60 lbs. in the middle. Do think that will work or do you have a few ideas. Thank you for any advice.
Use 16' lumber. How heavy of a beam you need depends on a lot of things. I've never heard of a beam that only needs to support 60 pounds. Either consult an engineer or over build the crap out of it. Structural failures kill
Thanks for the reply. I guess I should be more clear sorry. I have a big storage unit. Between the steel door is 15 feet. I want to hang a big light down from the ceiling. But I have to put it on a pulley system so it can be unplugged if I need to open the storage door. I have even though about using two 10x4x4’s and grove them. I guess it would not be a real support beam 😂. Thank you.
@dantem9315 if you're just hanging a light you can buy 16 foot lumber a two ply 2x6 would do the trick I think.
I would have expected construction adhesive between the boards, why don’t you use it?
@@brandonwoll9621 because it's not required.
What do you do for variations Along the top/ bottom run where the they come together? Do you need to plane them?
Do you mean variations in board width? No you don't need to plane them. In fact if you're using pressure treated lumber you ruin it if you do. Generally you really don't need to worry about it. You've probably got joists that are going to sit on top on 16" centers that will probably miss it. Your joists are probably going to be a little irregular too. And on the bottom of the beam it probably is going to only be sitting on the ends. If you've got a spot that's really out of sorts just split the difference top and bottom. If you've got a bad little hump where you want to sit a joist just smash it with your hammer. This is rough framing not finish carpentry.
Cool...
I wish I had an assistant.
@desertmoonlightcottage3387 people generally are more interested in assisting when you offer to pay them.
This job was at the bottom of 56 steps. Old deck had to go up new deck had to go down. Makes a hell of a lot of sense to have someone working who gets paid half what I do considering the amount of dumb labor involved.
Beamtastic!
Will change the thumbnail to reflect that.
Thanks!
Dude your beard is wild👌🏻. How do you die it like that?
Black Henna hair dye.
Seems legit
Mmm.... I dunno about that. This is no sub for LVL.
All you did was nail two boards together my dude and it took you 8 mins to do so. And you have an assistant lol.
I could have used lvl for this outdoor deck beam. But I decided to do it right instead.
Hack
Whatever you say dear