Hi Bill, you likely don't remember me but you replaced head gaskets on my 6.4L. I was likely the last job you did in 2013 I picked the truck up late on Christmas eve. I was the old man you are talking about here. Had an H&S tuner. Always drove on setting 1 (Stock power) and for sure always towed my big camper in 1. But I was messing around with different settings and I forgot to change it back to 1 when I hooked up the camper. As I topped Mount Eagle I felt just a little sort of twitch. Stopped for the night and the next day coolant was low. Topped off and continued on the trip. Right about then I noticed the tuner in setting 2 and figured it out. That truck towed that big camper (17,000 pounds) out to western Montana, up to Glacier NP, back to Yellowstone, and back home, all after blowing a HG, I just kept topping off the coolant. Lots of people ragged on the 6.4L but I thought it had great power. Two months after I got it back from you a drunk old woman hit us down in Fort Myers and they totaled the truck. I got a new 6.7L and proving there is no fool like an old fool I have it tuned. Tune is STOCK POWER, EGR OFF, DPF DELETED. I think that is a safe tune. but I'm 80 now so if it blows it blows.
A clean mild delete tune that follows stock power levels is the way to go! Get rid of the epa engine killing crap, and don’t turn your truck into a race car; you’ll have reliability and still adequate power!
Hey bill!!! Awesome video!! I’ve got a 2000 F250, 7.3 with over 738,000 miles and she purrs like a cat. 3k mile oil changes, oem filters every time. You couldn’t offer me a brand new one to replace it. Thanks for all your content on your videos. Keep them coming!!
thank you so much for being an amazing person who provides so much to the automotive industry! you've always put honesty first and we all love it! cheers from texas
Thank you Bill, for putting this in “Layman’s term”. I just got some Banks upgrades for my 2018 power-stroke. I think you explained everything i could have had questions about for the “non-deletion and deletion options”. It’s pretty much about the RPM’s!!
Thanks for the education, I’ve still got a 7.3 that I’ve always run at in the highest gear possible when not towing anything. I hope I haven’t caused any problems. After watching this video, I will run it to a higher rpm before shifting gears. Thanks again!
Love these longer chats.. Thanks Bill. No longer a powerstroke owner, but still a subscriber (since the old 7.3 vs 6.0 video series!) and enjoy the education. If I ever get myself into a 6.0, itll come from Arizona to see you.
Your concise words on early cylinder ignition is my envy. Having begged with people to understand the multi-injection algorithm (program) PRIOR TO THE PRIMARY or MAIN injection is so key to knowing how these computers and the piezoelectric injectors can get the extra fuel in but cannot stop the physics and chemistry of compression ignition PARTICULARLY EARLY and sending that force down the rod to beat the bearing half and squeeze that oil film away damaging the bearing..... getting OWNERS KNOWING ALL THE FUEL IS NOT INJECTED IN "ONE SINGLE SHOT" is key for them to knowing that EVERY TUNER MANUFACTURER is managing BOTH Pre and Main Injection Programming... Thanks Bill for your Greatest Video Content for so many years....!!!!
Good information here. Good, clean, proper tuning can make a world of difference on your diesel engine. Improper tuning can kill it in record time as well.
I wish I had went to work for this man when he put the million mile shop truck video years ago! He knows what he is doing and why the machines do what they do. I will never forget, "Too many burnouts in the cauldasack?", He is up on everything in his business, ladies and gentlemen, you want the best advice? 🤔 He is going to give it to you straight forward and bluntly with no sugar folks. Great evening to you all and enjoy.
I ordered my 01_F350 from the factory and it will be a cold day in hell before I sell it. Most reliable vehicle I've owned in almost 60 years of vehicle ownership.
I never owned a power stroke engine. I really appreciate this u tube channel as I believe they are very good at what they do ..I remember many years ago in the forums for what that's worth about timing and the effects on bearings , I run more timing in my old diesel as it gets better mileage. I was also wondering about the wrist pin bushings ect . These things are I assume based on the size of the components and the load imposed on them . Timing can also stress the head gasket to a failure... i alway like to let the old engine get up to temperature before i load it up . Thanks for the videos and the information
good info on the rpm range for the 7.3l..... ill stop lugging it from now on!! Would really like to see a video describing driving habits and methods for the PS engines just like this tip on rpm sweet spot. Tips and tricks for higher mileage and longevity.
Thanks for this explanation. I recently had my 6.7 tuned just to support the 2015+ turbo (mine's a '13) and I've been having frequent regen problems, even after a full flow test certified DPF cleaning. I decided to upgrade the turbo since the exhaust manifold studs started popping off and have read the stories about the early year turbo failures and wanted to bulletproof the exhaust system. The torque converter locks up earlier and shift points have been changed. I'll be sure to check if it's lugging too much or just try to keep the rpms up and see if that helps with the regen intervals. I'm to the point I may need a new Powerstroke doctor to fix it up since the shop that did all this work wants to avoid any responsibility...
Love the explanations, I work on Freightliner's and such. We are seeing many many deletes or tunes on trucks because of the cost of repairing emissions. But the damage to the engine because of over fueling due to bad tuning.
@@michaeldunagan8268ell no. Considering just the new engine of a new 6.7 PSD is like 20 grand, I'd imagine they'd total the truck on purpose before that happened. I know I would.
You need to put out more videos!! Apparently when you wake up in the morning, you piss excellence. It shows in every one of your videos. Everyone of your videos are perfect and dead on. I’m sure your work is the same.I really think you and your out look are refreshing! Keep up the good work.
I absolutely agree Bill. I've had my 2015 6.7 for 6 years now. It's been deleted since 2016. Mild tuning, but always found the trans wanted the highest gear possible all the time. I run it in tow haul 90% of the time cause it just seems to run better in those higher rpm ranges. Love your content man, keep it coming.
What tuner did you get? I'm having a hard time choosing the right one. I want power efficiency and mpg only and of course let it breath better ya know.. I want one thats safe where the tuner knows what they're doing. Not trying to run 300hp just help the engine.
I have an 11 that does the same thing. Was thinking about getting a tune with a trans tune to try to fix that. It’s actually annoying to drive I prefer my 6.0 as far as shifting goes haha
Hi Bill, this is some great information you are sharing. I have a ‘17 6.7 but I’m in the peoples republic of California so no tune for me lol. Good to know that this engine is happiest in the 1800-2200 rpm range. I started using archoil last year when I found your UA-cam channel. I’ve only got 53k on the truck so I’m hoping to get as many trouble free miles as I can. Thank you so much for your great advice and additives.
I have a 13 6.7, and a 32' 5th wheel. I love the selective shifter because when I hook up to my trailer I loose 5th and 6th. I try to curse at 2000, and down grades I run 2500 to 3200. Seldome use brakes, even living in the mountains of Arizona. I recommend this operation to everyone. Never tow on O.D......
@@willc5512 so do I in Texas without all the crazy regulations… people are leaving your state in droves and moving to be free in the Great State of Texas! 👍🏻
Thanks for this information as I am that older guy with a 6.0 and a tune. I use the tune for good fuel economy when running unloaded and switch to a mild tow tune when needed. I have the manual transmission and tend to shift early courtesy of those years behind a Detroit diesel 🙂. Time for an old dog to learn a new trick and shift a bit later and keep the revs up.
I have a 2011 6.7 150,000 and still even has stock turbo but is deleted and a sweet and simple tune nothin crazy I hate rolling coal and thing is a champion gets 18 mpg in the city with a 4.5 lift and 35x12.5 love the 6.7 and can’t imagine hauling with anything else, great video tho man I enjoy your information
As a small business owner myself that statement you said is so true about one day we’ll be looking for bankruptcy attorneys in the phonebook and then all the sudden a job comes through the next day never know what’s gonna happen
Excellent information. Not a Ford guy but what he says applies to all brands. I blew up a mildly tuned 6.5 Chevy by lugging it while towing. Now I have one with a better turbo and more fuel that I can tow much heavier with- but I keep the rpm above 2200 at all times (usually 2500 and up).
I really notice the engine in low RPM’s when I have the cruise control on traveling at 70 MPH under load and I hit a hill the cruise control will not downshift til it has gone 5 MPH below the set speed. I’ve begun giving it gas early to avoid the slowdown, didn’t know that was also bad for the bearing too. Thanks Bill and merry Christmas to the whole Powerstroke family!
Very good video Bill. People don't realize that the whole time the engine is running it is trying the shove the crankshaft right through the oil pan. All you're doing is multiplying the leverage when you get too crazy with fuel, timing, and overboosting past the limit it was designed for. Very good video.
PCP - Peak Cylinder Pressure. Timing affects it, as does fuel rate. Every engine is designed to a PCP target, and nearly every tuning change bumps PCP above that limit. Engines are also designed with Safety Factors for the individual structural components. Some of these are easy to add extra margin to (block), but others have a lot of competing targets (con rod wants to be as light as possible, so it has a smaller safety factor. Head needs to be cooled, so it can't have a large factor of safety because wall thickness competes with ability to cool it). There's always a "fuse" in the system, typically the head gasket (6.0 lifted the heads and puked coolant out of the reservoir). But if the fuse is elsewhere (as in the 6.7), the failure mode can be more severe. 6.7 is robust structurally, but (as you expertly pointed out), the combustion force can literally squeeze the oil film out from between the bearings and crank journals, resulting in metal-to-metal contact just like a dry start (except under full load). The only way to increase capacity in the bearing is to make it wider. And bearing area is another tradeoff - more area requires thinner crankshaft webs (wider bearings) or a heavier crank (journal diameter increase). So the solution to achieving more power safely is to increase the area under the combustion pressure curve, without increasing the peak pressure above the limit.
Engine lugging is what killed tons of Subaru WRXs and STi. People getting a tune and then mashing the go pedal in 4th gear at 1500 rpm causing insane amounts of detonation and blowing the ringlands off or rod bearing apart.
That's a thing with even stock cars these days,with small displacement relying on the turbo ,and then having crazy compression ratios like 10-11-12:1 on a gasser. Unheard of compression and boost levels and at lower rpms , if something is slightly off it's gonna pop. On a side note ,my manager at work has one of those little ram vans ,every time from a cruise when you tip into it you'll hear a little spark knock. That's kinda telling me a few things, the stock tune is aggressive , and keep doing that for 100k and watch a piston fry up.
My 2019 f150 had a faulty ethanol sensor (never ran e85 but it was a flex fuel gen 3 coyote) dealership said timing was advanced to the max. I brought it in for a weird rattle going in and out of 3rd gear, thought it was trans related. Nope, it was detonation so bad it sounded like a chain rattling. It was fixed under warranty (new ethanol sensor and Ford reflashed everything) ran really good but I just traded it in last week. I drove it like that for god knows how long, could have been all winter. Couldn't hear it unless the window was down
Pushing the engine harder than intended is always a gamble. In my tuned vehicles I send an oil sample in every couple of oil changes to track what its doing. Keeps my mind stress free that there is no forbidden glitter or reynolds brand bearing foil going on.
Great video, I'm originally from the Pacific Northwest true diesel truck land. Moved to Phoenix about 18 mo ago. The heat down here is tough on my 95' F250 Powerstroke. I'm a CM for a large home builder so in the summer we spend hours a day in our trucks. All the idling is really hard on bearings I noticed one day my oil pressure was lower than normal. Still in a safe range but not high like usual. 250,000 on the truck and found my oil cooler was leaking. There's a video on a new 6.7 that had very low miles but approx 5,000 hrs of idling! Oil change history was good for the miles but the bearings were toast! Bottom line know your truck and don't abuse it.
Damnit... Guilty of this on the ol 03 7.3. I don't lug it hard(4r100) but I do drive at low low rpms. And I run the third, from the all out tune. My bearings gonna slip out in the middle of the night, sneak in the house right into the ol bedroom, and put it's shavings in the toothpaste and on my TP likely if I don't knock it off I feel. Im praying to the Ford gods to release the bad juju I've imposed with this "hammering" and let me spin it for another few hundred thousand miles. She runs like a top at 296k, still on factory injectors. Starts at -2 like butter too. Crazy how it works when you maintain them. Fresh ZD-11's and a stancore relay, probably better than new. Thanks for the info, it'll probably save me a small chunk for a good while.
Cylinder pressure 101. I find the stock scorpions are damn perfect bone stock. The only thing I would suggest is tuning the trans shift schedule to lower dynamic cylinder compression...and an aftermarket lift pump and absolute 2 micron cat filter system.
it’s ALL ABOUT the powerband 💪 my little Detroit 500 60 series likes the rpms pretty high. water temp is like 160 rolling 62 mph at 2100 rpm old is gold baby 🤗
I’m running the Banks Derringer programmer on my ‘19 F-450, with 2 gauge pods monitoring all the temps. I like that it is adjust on the fly. More power = lower fuel economy. Only time I turn it on is getting on the highway or running up some big hills, when I’m pulling my 20k toy hauler, or I have a heavy load on my flatbed trailer. Has plenty of power in stock setting for most other situations. Also gets best mileage in stock setting. Best thing I did for fuel economy was put the Ram Air system on it. Gives me 10%-15% better mileage.
Don’t turn the power up when towing. That was the main point of the video. Ignition timing at lower rpms… Be sure to keep it around 2000-2200 rpm when going up steep grades.
2010 Crew Cab F350 dually was the first truck I accidentally did a half a donut in, just being in a little hurry to turn around, I was astounded at the amount of power the 6.4 made.
I was waiting for him to say something like this. Steve dinan, founder of dinan engineering (bmw tuner/race car builder) did a good video about tuning on the drive channel on yt, heard him say 'we try to time an engine so peak cylinder pressure occurs at the optimal crank angle. That's where the engine is most efficient at making power.' What angle is optimal varies with rpm, fuel type/octane rating, flame front propagation in combustion chamber, etc. There is always a sweet spot, and anything earlier is too early, anything later is too late, and you lose power. Or worse, hammer your bearings to death, or in a gas engine, cause knock with too much advance. It gets even more complicated in diesels with multiple injection events per cylinder per firing. In short, don't let just any Yahoo tune your truck.
No: it boils down to pressure. The peak pressure has to be shifted when the engine is underload and burning a high rate of fuel in order for the engine to have longevity. ua-cam.com/video/JtDJIQsTM-Y/v-deo.html
Great video, Big trucks and cummins drivers can lug a little more, because they are in-line and not V engines. gives them a lot more room for wider bearings = more surface area, more oil film area. I’m sure it won’t matter as much in stock form.
Hi and thank you so much for your content. You are making our trucks last so much longer. You mentioned tuning could be good for fuel milage. Can you recommend a tune for increased mileage for the F-550 and up that come detuned from the factory?
What are your thoughts on the new fuel water separator/secondary filter that SPE came out with last week? It uses CAT filters and replaces the stock unit in front of the tank.
Another awesome and informative video. I prefer gasoline powered trucks and these new gasoline 2500s and 3500s pull harder than an early 2000s diesel. That being said if I ever go diesel, I'm choosing cummins.
I still have my 2003 7.3L 2 wheel drive, crew cab, long bed manual transmission. it's a pleasure to cruise cross country in. stock as far as i know and 204k miles. if i ever fix my 1983 f100 inline six 2 wheels drive short bed i may use her as a daily driver/grocery getter.
Great advice! I guess I’m an older guy now… driving trucks with Cummins or Cats you never ran higher RPMs, unless it was a Detroit 318.. then you hammered it!
Great video and explanation Bill! Is the 20+ motor less susceptible to this problem than the previous motors due to the revised rods, piston, and lower compression??? The new 10 speed loves to keep the rpms way down, I think the main caution would be when towing to be sure to downshift on long grades. Hope you’re doing well!
It's the same for the 20+. The rods piston and compression aren't really factors. Bearing size (width) where wider is better, and then just timing are what do it. Bill touched on it just briefly but the key thing of this failure is metal fatigue in the bearing itself. Take a coat hanger and flex it back and forth it will get weak and break, that's what is happening to the bearing. The hammering is flexing the bearing and after a while the metals in it start to fail. Can't even solve this with some kind of better oil, because it has nothing to do with lubricity or film strength. Even if an oil had perfect film strength all that means is the forces are fully transferred through the oil to the bearing bending it instead of pushing oil out. You could theoretically help this with a weaker rod because a weaker rod would flex and give more, absorbing more energy and reducing what gets to the bearing. But imagine the outcries if Ford installed weaker rods. The reason higher RPM helps Bill didn't explain, but it's because the flame front of combustion always has the same speed. With higher RPM the piston and rod will get farther away from being straight up and down at the moment of peak cylinder pressure because the piston is literally running away from the flame front faster. Bill is correct, when increasing the forces in the cylinder like this you either need to use more RPM to keep the rod angle appropriate, or less timing. The lesson here really is understanding that tuners go by the dyno and adjust their tunes based on the output measured by the dyno. What they aren't doing is tuning an engine and then running it for 2,000 hours at load to see if their tunes create failures in the long run. You'll see things like "early lockup" in tunes, run away. People like that because it really will make the truck feel and drive better and get better mileage, but it's also much harder on the engine's internals.
@@seijirou302 what are you talking about?! I’m mainly referring to your comment of “run away” to “early lockup”. Do you even know what that means??? Do you understand what that does? You were pretty easy to follow at first and then it started to ramble like you regurgitated something you heard. Then you make that comment and it’s obvious you don’t know what your talking about. Don’t give advice when you yourself don’t know
Since my boss started buying these, every time I tow with one I always use the manual shift option. Plus, I never shift up higher than fifth in them. When I bought mine, I have carried those habits over while driving it as well. I like shifting them at higher rpms, I typically shift in the 2700-3000 range, depending upon the weight of what I am pulling. One of the 6.7s that is strictly a crew truck, recently started having issues, and I wonder how they drive it. It has a trailer hooked up to it 95% of the time. Makes me wonder if they aren't lugging the crap out of it.
To me: if I knew I was going to tow a relatively heavy trailer 95% the time or if I was going to be an old-school plumber carrying metal pipes and metal tools and inventory, I would get a larger ring gear for the given pinion gear in the deferential in order to let the engine breathe little better and get to its preferred operating range easier.
I like the ending of the video. Sometimes engines need to be driven a certain way. For me I find myself trying to get to the 4th and 5th gear and then backing it off rpm and lugging it . All in an attempt to save fuel. Dam am I getting old?!! But in the end the tune saves these engines its good to do.
I got a 17 f250 6.7 well maintained been deleted for about 3 years now and never had any problems I’m running a mild tune just wanted to get that junk dpf off of it runs a lot better than stock in my opinion to each their own
I've heard of this happening a couple of times in the Cummins for the Ram. Those engines pull so hard at low rpm but it is very harsh on the engine and causes the trucks to run so rich which is why they smoke so much more deleted compared to other trucks.
Both my companies rams are deleted one 5500 and one 3500. The 5500 is getting a new engine right now because it decided to delete cylinder #6 while pulling our backhoe a month ago.
Very interesting video thank you! Now I have a question on the torque converters with the 7.3s. I’ve herd of a popular thing when doing a 4r100 is to put in a lower stall torque converter say around 1500-1600rpm. Now say one of those is put in and the stock shift parameters are still used so that the torque converter doesn’t actually lock till later it just stalls lower when unlocked, would that cause problems?
Note: when towing if not on flat and level the the cruse control can over load the mains they will rotate and then no oil to rods. Have seen non tuned engine failures. ( Ford senior master Tec.)
My 2000s trevan had a switch on the turn signal lever that if the vehicle was either hauling heavy or towing one was to Preston switch. My guess was that the system raised the RPMs at which the transmission would up-shift to the next gear in order to keep the 4.3L V6 Virtec engine from lugging.
With the 6.7L, is the design itself not also an issue? From the much narrower and smaller rods (Edit: The later model ones seem to be more reasonable as far as size) it seemed as though Ford was banking on the injection strategy to keep the peak cylinder pressures down by spacing out the combustion over multiple injection events. Since the pressures are lower, so are the forces, more like a gas engine with it spaced out over the work cycle rather than as a sharp impulse like old-school mechanical diesels. These seem to have fairly small bearings as well. Probably works ok with the factory tune and helps fuel economy by keeping the rotating mass down, but I can see why they would fail when tuned more like a traditional diesel. In a way the bottom end is somewhat like what you would see with a gas V8.
After reading the problems on youtube I'm afraid to delete my truck now. I have a Ford F250 2015 6.7L with 46,100 miles on it. I don't drive it much but when I do, I drive it till it gets hot. I use a OBDII and monitor when it goes into regen mode and I drive it till it deactivates and continue after it deactivates before returning home. The dealer always changes the oil and use's Motorcraft 15w40. I love the truck. Once a year for veterans day I trailer / haul my jeep for a parade.
More fuel and timing with the tuners=more force on the bearings for longer periods of time. Not to mention those injectors are injecting 3, 4, 5 times on every compression stroke.
Rip Bill thank you for all your info and help to the community, you will be truly missed!!
The epa is killing the diesel industry
Who?
Exactly. I've seen this same problem in stock trucks. Best mileage is low rpm with the converter locked. Hammer down on the bearings
that's facts rite there
@@ShainAndrews epa and carb
Diesel particulates literally sicken and kill people, so maybe they should kill it.
Hi Bill, you likely don't remember me but you replaced head gaskets on my 6.4L. I was likely the last job you did in 2013 I picked the truck up late on Christmas eve. I was the old man you are talking about here. Had an H&S tuner. Always drove on setting 1 (Stock power) and for sure always towed my big camper in 1. But I was messing around with different settings and I forgot to change it back to 1 when I hooked up the camper. As I topped Mount Eagle I felt just a little sort of twitch. Stopped for the night and the next day coolant was low. Topped off and continued on the trip. Right about then I noticed the tuner in setting 2 and figured it out. That truck towed that big camper (17,000 pounds) out to western Montana, up to Glacier NP, back to Yellowstone, and back home, all after blowing a HG, I just kept topping off the coolant. Lots of people ragged on the 6.4L but I thought it had great power. Two months after I got it back from you a drunk old woman hit us down in Fort Myers and they totaled the truck. I got a new 6.7L and proving there is no fool like an old fool I have it tuned. Tune is STOCK POWER, EGR OFF, DPF DELETED. I think that is a safe tune. but I'm 80 now so if it blows it blows.
He's no longer with us
A clean mild delete tune that follows stock power levels is the way to go! Get rid of the epa engine killing crap, and don’t turn your truck into a race car; you’ll have reliability and still adequate power!
But if you don't do your own tuning, how do you know who's tunes have too much timing and who's doesn't?
North coast diesel makes clean tunes.
all day long
Don't mess with your 6.7
Hey bill!!! Awesome video!! I’ve got a 2000 F250, 7.3 with over 738,000 miles and she purrs like a cat. 3k mile oil changes, oem filters every time. You couldn’t offer me a brand new one to replace it. Thanks for all your content on your videos. Keep them coming!!
738,000 very nice!
Excellent discussion, Bill. Informative and educational. Thanks much.
Dude your a great teacher!! You have a great way of explaining stuff! I got a feeling a man could learn a lot just hanging around you.
Thanks for the advice and your wealth of knowledge, Bill.
thank you so much for being an amazing person who provides so much to the automotive industry! you've always put honesty first and we all love it! cheers from texas
Thank you Bill! As a 6.7 owner this is great knowledge.
Bill is a great guy. I never met him but love how real he is here. Solid and knowledgeable. Thanks for the info I learned alot here.
I don’t even own a powerstroke and I find all your videos very educational and good knowledge to have
Thank you Bill, for putting this in “Layman’s term”. I just got some Banks upgrades for my 2018 power-stroke. I think you explained everything i could have had questions about for the “non-deletion and deletion options”. It’s pretty much about the RPM’s!!
Thanks for the education, I’ve still got a 7.3 that I’ve always run at in the highest gear possible when not towing anything. I hope I haven’t caused any problems. After watching this video, I will run it to a higher rpm before shifting gears.
Thanks again!
Great info. Good to see still making informative videos.
An Exhaust Temperature Guage will tell you alot about whether or not you are lugging the engine too. Thanks for the great videos Bill.
U can always tell by how an engine sounds and how an engine runs if your lugging it. As well.
Or watching the tach and knowing where torque peaks.
Bill you can retire sir. we want you to be happy
thank you for speaking from all of your years of experience with honesty.
Very good video.
You make very clear concise points.
Thank you
Wow I just learned so much on this topic I’m just 20 minutes, this was awesome thank you
Love your informative videos where you share your knowledge
Always love your videos Bill!!
Great video!
Thank you Bill
I had the exact failer on my 2020 6.7
Very interesting listen. Thank you for this!
Love these longer chats.. Thanks Bill. No longer a powerstroke owner, but still a subscriber (since the old 7.3 vs 6.0 video series!) and enjoy the education. If I ever get myself into a 6.0, itll come from Arizona to see you.
I got a 6.0 you can buy
Upgraded to a cummins???.....😁
@@michaellee5399 $?
Is Bill still selling his DealerProofed dualies?
I got a 6.0 you can buy too. Brand new motor 0 miles head studs is all is done to it. You just need a trans. 2007 f250 crew cab 15,000.
merry christmas tks for all you do
Great video! Can't wait for the next one!
Your concise words on early cylinder ignition is my envy. Having begged with people to understand the multi-injection algorithm (program) PRIOR TO THE PRIMARY or MAIN injection is so key to knowing how these computers and the piezoelectric injectors can get the extra fuel in but cannot stop the physics and chemistry of compression ignition PARTICULARLY EARLY and sending that force down the rod to beat the bearing half and squeeze that oil film away damaging the bearing..... getting OWNERS KNOWING ALL THE FUEL IS NOT INJECTED IN "ONE SINGLE SHOT" is key for them to knowing that EVERY TUNER MANUFACTURER is managing BOTH Pre and Main Injection Programming... Thanks Bill for your Greatest Video Content for so many years....!!!!
Good information here. Good, clean, proper tuning can make a world of difference on your diesel engine. Improper tuning can kill it in record time as well.
I wish I had went to work for this man when he put the million mile shop truck video years ago! He knows what he is doing and why the machines do what they do. I will never forget, "Too many burnouts in the cauldasack?", He is up on everything in his business, ladies and gentlemen, you want the best advice? 🤔 He is going to give it to you straight forward and bluntly with no sugar folks. Great evening to you all and enjoy.
Best description of this on the internet. I miss this guy, such a loss to our community.
Thanks as always for the information..that's why I have and will keep my 2001 f250 7.3..
I ordered my 01_F350 from the factory and it will be a cold day in hell before I sell it. Most reliable vehicle I've owned in almost 60 years of vehicle ownership.
I never owned a power stroke engine. I really appreciate this u tube channel as I believe they are very good at what they do ..I remember many years ago in the forums for what that's worth about timing and the effects on bearings , I run more timing in my old diesel as it gets better mileage. I was also wondering about the wrist pin bushings ect . These things are I assume based on the size of the components and the load imposed on them . Timing can also stress the head gasket to a failure... i alway like to let the old engine get up to temperature before i load it up . Thanks for the videos and the information
good info on the rpm range for the 7.3l..... ill stop lugging it from now on!! Would really like to see a video describing driving habits and methods for the PS engines just like this tip on rpm sweet spot. Tips and tricks for higher mileage and longevity.
Any engine hates lugging. If for no other reason than the fact that the mains take more of a beating then than at any other time.
Thanks for this explanation. I recently had my 6.7 tuned just to support the 2015+ turbo (mine's a '13) and I've been having frequent regen problems, even after a full flow test certified DPF cleaning. I decided to upgrade the turbo since the exhaust manifold studs started popping off and have read the stories about the early year turbo failures and wanted to bulletproof the exhaust system. The torque converter locks up earlier and shift points have been changed. I'll be sure to check if it's lugging too much or just try to keep the rpms up and see if that helps with the regen intervals. I'm to the point I may need a new Powerstroke doctor to fix it up since the shop that did all this work wants to avoid any responsibility...
The frequent regens are from bad tunes.
Great FN video man. Very knowledgeable.
Awesome video. Thank you.
I really enjoy it when you explain on the white board. It reminds me of the old days like the 6.0 perfect storm video.
Very good information to know... Thanks!!
Love the explanations, I work on Freightliner's and such. We are seeing many many deletes or tunes on trucks because of the cost of repairing emissions. But the damage to the engine because of over fueling due to bad tuning.
I wonder if all the purported or expected fuel that was saved, if any, is enough to compensate for the early death of their engines.....🤔
@@michaeldunagan8268ell no. Considering just the new engine of a new 6.7 PSD is like 20 grand, I'd imagine they'd total the truck on purpose before that happened. I know I would.
Always a wealth of information! You are a diesel savant!
One of the best diesel videos I’ve seen in a long time I’m a 23 year old diesel tech you remind me a lot of my mentor when I was 17 at the dodge house
You need to put out more videos!! Apparently when you wake up in the morning, you piss excellence. It shows in every one of your videos. Everyone of your videos are perfect and dead on. I’m sure your work is the same.I really think you and your out look are refreshing!
Keep up the good work.
Great video. Thank you sir
I absolutely agree Bill. I've had my 2015 6.7 for 6 years now. It's been deleted since 2016. Mild tuning, but always found the trans wanted the highest gear possible all the time. I run it in tow haul 90% of the time cause it just seems to run better in those higher rpm ranges. Love your content man, keep it coming.
A good transmission tune would do you good. A lot of people just tune the engine and never the trans
Yea with more power you kinda gotta accomodate with stronger trans and what not
What tuner did you get? I'm having a hard time choosing the right one. I want power efficiency and mpg only and of course let it breath better ya know.. I want one thats safe where the tuner knows what they're doing. Not trying to run 300hp just help the engine.
Same truck as you
I have an 11 that does the same thing. Was thinking about getting a tune with a trans tune to try to fix that. It’s actually annoying to drive I prefer my 6.0 as far as shifting goes haha
Hi Bill, this is some great information you are sharing. I have a ‘17 6.7 but I’m in the peoples republic of California so no tune for me lol. Good to know that this engine is happiest in the 1800-2200 rpm range. I started using archoil last year when I found your UA-cam channel. I’ve only got 53k on the truck so I’m hoping to get as many trouble free miles as I can. Thank you so much for your great advice and additives.
I breathe alot better in Ca. So im fine with u having no tune!
come to far nothern cali its all tuned and deleted trucks up here lol
I have a 13 6.7, and a 32' 5th wheel. I love the selective shifter because when I hook up to my trailer I loose 5th and 6th. I try to curse at 2000, and down grades I run 2500 to 3200. Seldome use brakes, even living in the mountains of Arizona.
I recommend this operation to everyone. Never tow on O.D......
@@willc5512 so do I in Texas without all the crazy regulations… people are leaving your state in droves and moving to be free in the Great State of Texas! 👍🏻
You been awesome brudda!!
Great info thanks Bill
Thanks for this information as I am that older guy with a 6.0 and a tune. I use the tune for good fuel economy when running unloaded and switch to a mild tow tune when needed. I have the manual transmission and tend to shift early courtesy of those years behind a Detroit diesel 🙂. Time for an old dog to learn a new trick and shift a bit later and keep the revs up.
Yup
6.0 likes rpm
Cleans combustion and turbo
And sounds great
I have a 2011 6.7 150,000 and still even has stock turbo but is deleted and a sweet and simple tune nothin crazy I hate rolling coal and thing is a champion gets 18 mpg in the city with a 4.5 lift and 35x12.5 love the 6.7 and can’t imagine hauling with anything else, great video tho man I enjoy your information
As a small business owner myself that statement you said is so true about one day we’ll be looking for bankruptcy attorneys in the phonebook and then all the sudden a job comes through the next day never know what’s gonna happen
Thank you from a long time ford mechanic!!!!
Thank you for this.
Excellent information. Not a Ford guy but what he says applies to all brands. I blew up a mildly tuned 6.5 Chevy by lugging it while towing. Now I have one with a better turbo and more fuel that I can tow much heavier with- but I keep the rpm above 2200 at all times (usually 2500 and up).
I really notice the engine in low RPM’s when I have the cruise control on traveling at 70 MPH under load and I hit a hill the cruise control will not downshift til it has gone 5 MPH below the set speed. I’ve begun giving it gas early to avoid the slowdown, didn’t know that was also bad for the bearing too. Thanks Bill and merry Christmas to the whole Powerstroke family!
Very good video Bill. People don't realize that the whole time the engine is running it is trying the shove the crankshaft right through the oil pan. All you're doing is multiplying the leverage when you get too crazy with fuel, timing, and overboosting past the limit it was designed for. Very good video.
Keep up the good work love your video
PCP - Peak Cylinder Pressure. Timing affects it, as does fuel rate. Every engine is designed to a PCP target, and nearly every tuning change bumps PCP above that limit. Engines are also designed with Safety Factors for the individual structural components. Some of these are easy to add extra margin to (block), but others have a lot of competing targets (con rod wants to be as light as possible, so it has a smaller safety factor. Head needs to be cooled, so it can't have a large factor of safety because wall thickness competes with ability to cool it). There's always a "fuse" in the system, typically the head gasket (6.0 lifted the heads and puked coolant out of the reservoir). But if the fuse is elsewhere (as in the 6.7), the failure mode can be more severe. 6.7 is robust structurally, but (as you expertly pointed out), the combustion force can literally squeeze the oil film out from between the bearings and crank journals, resulting in metal-to-metal contact just like a dry start (except under full load). The only way to increase capacity in the bearing is to make it wider. And bearing area is another tradeoff - more area requires thinner crankshaft webs (wider bearings) or a heavier crank (journal diameter increase). So the solution to achieving more power safely is to increase the area under the combustion pressure curve, without increasing the peak pressure above the limit.
Engine lugging is what killed tons of Subaru WRXs and STi. People getting a tune and then mashing the go pedal in 4th gear at 1500 rpm causing insane amounts of detonation and blowing the ringlands off or rod bearing apart.
That's a thing with even stock cars these days,with small displacement relying on the turbo ,and then having crazy compression ratios like 10-11-12:1 on a gasser.
Unheard of compression and boost levels and at lower rpms , if something is slightly off it's gonna pop.
On a side note ,my manager at work has one of those little ram vans ,every time from a cruise when you tip into it you'll hear a little spark knock.
That's kinda telling me a few things, the stock tune is aggressive , and keep doing that for 100k and watch a piston fry up.
Focus st too
My 2019 f150 had a faulty ethanol sensor (never ran e85 but it was a flex fuel gen 3 coyote) dealership said timing was advanced to the max.
I brought it in for a weird rattle going in and out of 3rd gear, thought it was trans related. Nope, it was detonation so bad it sounded like a chain rattling. It was fixed under warranty (new ethanol sensor and Ford reflashed everything) ran really good but I just traded it in last week. I drove it like that for god knows how long, could have been all winter. Couldn't hear it unless the window was down
Pushing the engine harder than intended is always a gamble. In my tuned vehicles I send an oil sample in every couple of oil changes to track what its doing. Keeps my mind stress free that there is no forbidden glitter or reynolds brand bearing foil going on.
Just buy an oil filter cutter, or get a System 1 oil filter, and check it yourself EVERY oil change.
Great video, I'm originally from the Pacific Northwest true diesel truck land. Moved to Phoenix about 18 mo ago. The heat down here is tough on my 95' F250 Powerstroke. I'm a CM for a large home builder so in the summer we spend hours a day in our trucks.
All the idling is really hard on bearings I noticed one day my oil pressure was lower than normal. Still in a safe range but not high like usual. 250,000 on the truck and found my oil cooler was leaking. There's a video on a new 6.7 that had very low miles but approx 5,000 hrs of idling! Oil change history was good for the miles but the bearings were toast! Bottom line know your truck and don't abuse it.
You ROCK Bill !!! Peace
Damnit... Guilty of this on the ol 03 7.3. I don't lug it hard(4r100) but I do drive at low low rpms. And I run the third, from the all out tune. My bearings gonna slip out in the middle of the night, sneak in the house right into the ol bedroom, and put it's shavings in the toothpaste and on my TP likely if I don't knock it off I feel.
Im praying to the Ford gods to release the bad juju I've imposed with this "hammering" and let me spin it for another few hundred thousand miles. She runs like a top at 296k, still on factory injectors. Starts at -2 like butter too. Crazy how it works when you maintain them. Fresh ZD-11's and a stancore relay, probably better than new.
Thanks for the info, it'll probably save me a small chunk for a good while.
Good info thank you!!
Thanks. I'm a Cummins guy, but I learned a lot from your video.
Cylinder pressure 101. I find the stock scorpions are damn perfect bone stock. The only thing I would suggest is tuning the trans shift schedule to lower dynamic cylinder compression...and an aftermarket lift pump and absolute 2 micron cat filter system.
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen about 6.7s on the internet
Thanks for the heads up
it’s ALL ABOUT the powerband 💪
my little Detroit 500 60 series likes the rpms pretty high. water temp is like 160 rolling 62 mph at 2100 rpm
old is gold baby 🤗
Really great video-super interesting
Very good video, Bill
I’m running the Banks Derringer programmer on my ‘19 F-450, with 2 gauge pods monitoring all the temps. I like that it is adjust on the fly. More power = lower fuel economy. Only time I turn it on is getting on the highway or running up some big hills, when I’m pulling my 20k toy hauler, or I have a heavy load on my flatbed trailer. Has plenty of power in stock setting for most other situations. Also gets best mileage in stock setting. Best thing I did for fuel economy was put the Ram Air system on it. Gives me 10%-15% better mileage.
Don’t turn the power up when towing. That was the main point of the video. Ignition timing at lower rpms… Be sure to keep it around 2000-2200 rpm when going up steep grades.
2010 Crew Cab F350 dually was the first truck I accidentally did a half a donut in, just being in a little hurry to turn around, I was astounded at the amount of power the 6.4 made.
Great video!
It all boils down to leverage. It’s harder to turn the crank when it’s closer to TDC. Once it passes it all goes to the wheels!
I was waiting for him to say something like this. Steve dinan, founder of dinan engineering (bmw tuner/race car builder) did a good video about tuning on the drive channel on yt, heard him say 'we try to time an engine so peak cylinder pressure occurs at the optimal crank angle. That's where the engine is most efficient at making power.' What angle is optimal varies with rpm, fuel type/octane rating, flame front propagation in combustion chamber, etc. There is always a sweet spot, and anything earlier is too early, anything later is too late, and you lose power. Or worse, hammer your bearings to death, or in a gas engine, cause knock with too much advance. It gets even more complicated in diesels with multiple injection events per cylinder per firing. In short, don't let just any Yahoo tune your truck.
Just like peddling a bicycle.
No: it boils down to pressure. The peak pressure has to be shifted when the engine is underload and burning a high rate of fuel in order for the engine to have longevity.
ua-cam.com/video/JtDJIQsTM-Y/v-deo.html
Your a legend congratulations
Can’t like this video enough! Great explanation on everything!
Great video, Big trucks and cummins drivers can lug a little more, because they are in-line and not V engines. gives them a lot more room for wider bearings = more surface area, more oil film area. I’m sure it won’t matter as much in stock form.
Hi and thank you so much for your content. You are making our trucks last so much longer. You mentioned tuning could be good for fuel milage. Can you recommend a tune for increased mileage for the F-550 and up that come detuned from the factory?
What are your thoughts on the new fuel water separator/secondary filter that SPE came out with last week? It uses CAT filters and replaces the stock unit in front of the tank.
Another awesome and informative video.
I prefer gasoline powered trucks and these new gasoline 2500s and 3500s pull harder than an early 2000s diesel. That being said if I ever go diesel, I'm choosing cummins.
You're such a boss brother.
I still have my 2003 7.3L 2 wheel drive, crew cab, long bed manual transmission. it's a pleasure to cruise cross country in. stock as far as i know and 204k miles. if i ever fix my 1983 f100 inline six 2 wheels drive short bed i may use her as a daily driver/grocery getter.
Good information.
Great advice!
I guess I’m an older guy now… driving trucks with Cummins or Cats you never ran higher RPMs, unless it was a Detroit 318.. then you hammered it!
Great video and explanation Bill! Is the 20+ motor less susceptible to this problem than the previous motors due to the revised rods, piston, and lower compression??? The new 10 speed loves to keep the rpms way down, I think the main caution would be when towing to be sure to downshift on long grades. Hope you’re doing well!
It's the same for the 20+. The rods piston and compression aren't really factors. Bearing size (width) where wider is better, and then just timing are what do it. Bill touched on it just briefly but the key thing of this failure is metal fatigue in the bearing itself. Take a coat hanger and flex it back and forth it will get weak and break, that's what is happening to the bearing. The hammering is flexing the bearing and after a while the metals in it start to fail. Can't even solve this with some kind of better oil, because it has nothing to do with lubricity or film strength. Even if an oil had perfect film strength all that means is the forces are fully transferred through the oil to the bearing bending it instead of pushing oil out. You could theoretically help this with a weaker rod because a weaker rod would flex and give more, absorbing more energy and reducing what gets to the bearing. But imagine the outcries if Ford installed weaker rods. The reason higher RPM helps Bill didn't explain, but it's because the flame front of combustion always has the same speed. With higher RPM the piston and rod will get farther away from being straight up and down at the moment of peak cylinder pressure because the piston is literally running away from the flame front faster. Bill is correct, when increasing the forces in the cylinder like this you either need to use more RPM to keep the rod angle appropriate, or less timing.
The lesson here really is understanding that tuners go by the dyno and adjust their tunes based on the output measured by the dyno. What they aren't doing is tuning an engine and then running it for 2,000 hours at load to see if their tunes create failures in the long run. You'll see things like "early lockup" in tunes, run away. People like that because it really will make the truck feel and drive better and get better mileage, but it's also much harder on the engine's internals.
@@seijirou302 what are you talking about?! I’m mainly referring to your comment of “run away” to “early lockup”. Do you even know what that means??? Do you understand what that does? You were pretty easy to follow at first and then it started to ramble like you regurgitated something you heard. Then you make that comment and it’s obvious you don’t know what your talking about. Don’t give advice when you yourself don’t know
Very well said! You got a new sub from me brother!
My truck has been on weight loss since day 2 but I’ve still always driven it on the lowest hp setting. I’m playing the longevity game with this truck.
Since my boss started buying these, every time I tow with one I always use the manual shift option. Plus, I never shift up higher than fifth in them. When I bought mine, I have carried those habits over while driving it as well. I like shifting them at higher rpms, I typically shift in the 2700-3000 range, depending upon the weight of what I am pulling. One of the 6.7s that is strictly a crew truck, recently started having issues, and I wonder how they drive it. It has a trailer hooked up to it 95% of the time. Makes me wonder if they aren't lugging the crap out of it.
To me: if I knew I was going to tow a relatively heavy trailer 95% the time or if I was going to be an old-school plumber carrying metal pipes and metal tools and inventory, I would get a larger ring gear for the given pinion gear in the deferential in order to let the engine breathe little better and get to its preferred operating range easier.
might want to check the Bosch CP 4 fuel pump while you have the engine out?
I like the ending of the video. Sometimes engines need to be driven a certain way. For me I find myself trying to get to the 4th and 5th gear and then backing it off rpm and lugging it . All in an attempt to save fuel. Dam am I getting old?!! But in the end the tune saves these engines its good to do.
Hey bill that would make a great T-shirt. " I tuned my truck and I'm going to diesel h***."
I got a 17 f250 6.7 well maintained been deleted for about 3 years now and never had any problems I’m running a mild tune just wanted to get that junk dpf off of it runs a lot better than stock in my opinion to each their own
My dads 6.4 just keeps going and going. Of course it had the fuel system replaced due to some bad fuel but it’s a little over 200k. Excellent truck
A nice Ford fix channel!
I really like this guy, sounds very honest.
I've heard of this happening a couple of times in the Cummins for the Ram. Those engines pull so hard at low rpm but it is very harsh on the engine and causes the trucks to run so rich which is why they smoke so much more deleted compared to other trucks.
Both my companies rams are deleted one 5500 and one 3500. The 5500 is getting a new engine right now because it decided to delete cylinder #6 while pulling our backhoe a month ago.
@@huskers1278 How many miles before it deleted itself?
Very interesting video thank you! Now I have a question on the torque converters with the 7.3s. I’ve herd of a popular thing when doing a 4r100 is to put in a lower stall torque converter say around 1500-1600rpm. Now say one of those is put in and the stock shift parameters are still used so that the torque converter doesn’t actually lock till later it just stalls lower when unlocked, would that cause problems?
Note: when towing if not on flat and level the the cruse control can over load the mains they will rotate and then no oil to rods. Have seen non tuned engine failures. ( Ford senior master Tec.)
My 2000s trevan had a switch on the turn signal lever that if the vehicle was either hauling heavy or towing one was to Preston switch. My guess was that the system raised the RPMs at which the transmission would up-shift to the next gear in order to keep the 4.3L V6 Virtec engine from lugging.
With the 6.7L, is the design itself not also an issue? From the much narrower and smaller rods (Edit: The later model ones seem to be more reasonable as far as size) it seemed as though Ford was banking on the injection strategy to keep the peak cylinder pressures down by spacing out the combustion over multiple injection events. Since the pressures are lower, so are the forces, more like a gas engine with it spaced out over the work cycle rather than as a sharp impulse like old-school mechanical diesels. These seem to have fairly small bearings as well. Probably works ok with the factory tune and helps fuel economy by keeping the rotating mass down, but I can see why they would fail when tuned more like a traditional diesel. In a way the bottom end is somewhat like what you would see with a gas V8.
After reading the problems on youtube I'm afraid to delete my truck now. I have a Ford F250 2015 6.7L with 46,100 miles on it. I don't drive it much but when I do, I drive it till it gets hot. I use a OBDII and monitor when it goes into regen mode and I drive it till it deactivates and continue after it deactivates before returning home. The dealer always changes the oil and use's Motorcraft 15w40. I love the truck. Once a year for veterans day I trailer / haul my jeep for a parade.
More fuel and timing with the tuners=more force on the bearings for longer periods of time. Not to mention those injectors are injecting 3, 4, 5 times on every compression stroke.
Isn't pilot injection actually helpful