What you tested just lets you know those two pins are good. You still need to apply voltage to pins 5 and 4, then test 4 to 1 and 4 to 2 using a magnet to turn the switch on and off. What you've shown is good, but only half the testing needed. You can use a 9 volt battery for the power supply if you don't have a lab top supply. The output voltage should be the same as the input, or near it, and then when you use the magnet it should go down to nearly zero.
Thanks again for this, had no idea it was so easy to work on. Mine was simply a bad Hall effect switch. Thanks to another video I found that that the encapsulation is very poor. It pulled right out. I had bad resistance on one of the pins, replaced the old 681 SMTs with a pair of nice big 680 ohm thru. I suspect it will last years more compared to those tiny 681 SMT resistors. Thanks again!
@@soselectro I have ordered a new hall sensor and will let you know if it works. I guess it is defect as the Hb + Common showed nothing on my multi meter.
Bought me the latest "LG Direct Drive 8 kilo Inverter" I thought a normal Cotton wash ,rinsing, centrifuging should last not longer than one hour. Yet when I choose a normal "cotton" wash , the digits on the panel show "5 : 35" , that's over 5 hours ! Did me a few washes and I had to stop the machine since it was stuck at the first washing cycle for over two hours. ! How do I set the time for a regular 3 kilo "Cotton" wash ?
Are the pins that you are checking the only ones that need to be checked? So if you got an open circuit from the pins you did not check in the video would the stator still be good?
Mine got faulty. it showed 5 mega ohms and 10 mega ohms. It generated a grinding noise during operation. Replaced with a new one . new sensor has 5 mega ohms and 5 mega ohms for both terminals. machine works fine.
What you tested just lets you know those two pins are good. You still need to apply voltage to pins 5 and 4, then test 4 to 1 and 4 to 2 using a magnet to turn the switch on and off. What you've shown is good, but only half the testing needed. You can use a 9 volt battery for the power supply if you don't have a lab top supply. The output voltage should be the same as the input, or near it, and then when you use the magnet it should go down to nearly zero.
Everyone mentions using a battery. I don't know what that means. How do you use a battery?
Ann, the use of the battery is provide voltage to pin 5 and 4 to simulate in washer operation.
Thank you for sharing this you’ve helped me figure out our issue!
I am always at your service
Thanks again for this, had no idea it was so easy to work on. Mine was simply a bad Hall effect switch. Thanks to another video I found that that the encapsulation is very poor. It pulled right out. I had bad resistance on one of the pins, replaced the old 681 SMTs with a pair of nice big 680 ohm thru. I suspect it will last years more compared to those tiny 681 SMT resistors. Thanks again!
🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰👍👍👍🙋
Thanks for the video. I measured 10,4 kOhm on Ha and nothing on Hb. Will try to replace hall sensor.
How can I help you brother ? I am here to serve you
@@soselectro I have ordered a new hall sensor and will let you know if it works. I guess it is defect as the Hb + Common showed nothing on my multi meter.
Good brother. This is the WhatsApp number. If you need any help. 00212665120215
Thanks Boss, one quick check an I knew it was my rotor position sensor.
Bought me the latest "LG Direct Drive 8 kilo Inverter" I thought a normal Cotton wash ,rinsing, centrifuging should last not longer than one hour.
Yet when I choose a normal "cotton" wash , the digits on the panel show "5 : 35" , that's over 5 hours !
Did me a few washes and I had to stop the machine since it was stuck at the first washing cycle for over two hours. !
How do I set the time for a regular 3 kilo "Cotton" wash ?
Lovely music! Thank you!
I checked Ha 10.61Kohm and Hb .750Mohm. The difference of them can be a defected hall sensor. Am i right?
Yes
Are the pins that you are checking the only ones that need to be checked? So if you got an open circuit from the pins you did not check in the video would the stator still be good?
I did the same like this with my new sensor but nothing of any number display. So it’s determined not working? Thanks for your help in advance.
Mine got faulty. it showed 5 mega ohms and 10 mega ohms. It generated a grinding noise during operation. Replaced with a new one . new sensor has 5 mega ohms and 5 mega ohms for both terminals. machine works fine.
Same thing happened to me. The grinding noise. It sounds terrible, like a bearing is bad. And yet it's this little sensor, who would have thought.
Why not show test on the bad hall sensor and show the ohm reading?
and which one is 5V power supply?
I guess it doesn't need it. There are 5 pins there... So is that what it is all about?
What did you set the voltage meter to? Can't see that.
No entiendo? 0.5Kh está bien o está mal? Los 0.7kh está bien o mal
Did the sensor cause the drum to go out of balance like the first clip shows ?
Yes, the sensor is unbalanced. It must be changed
@@soselectro Thank you I have a similar issue and will try the sensor as it is a relatively cheap fix...cheers for your quick response...keep safe.
Often you have the problem. In the sensor. Thank you for the support
Sir, sensor no. 6501kw2001b and 6501kw2001a is different or is it the same, whether they can be replaced with each other
It shows 9.09kΩ for ha common and 9.26 kΩ for hb common. Is it good?
Yes
Thank you. Does that mean the hall sensor is not defective?
Pressure sensor,inlet value,motor,door lock ,value plz upload video
I got 5Mega ohm on ha-common, is that good or bad?
5 meg ohm bad
@@soselectro then i need to replace this hall effect sensor. thanks.
Who d f play sexy music which fixing washing machine
How effect if hall sensor is bad?
60 hommm et plus
What are characteristics sensor damage?
Anyone here can tell me the about AE error solve the problem