I took my washer apart to change the bearings and noticed a broken shock in the back. I then noticed my stator and rotor were full of what looked like dried grease, and I was thinking I might want to replace those as well, but after seeing your video here I think I'll save that $200 since yours look as "dirty" as mine. Thanks for showing the replacement on older machine!
Thank you so much for the easy to follow video. We are in our mid 70's and had not problem until we put everything back together. When we went to put the stator cover back on, the shaft did not come forward and it took us forever to figure out what had happened. It finally dawned on us that the drum might have shifted. My husband went to the front and push on the drum and sure enough, the shaft came back. It took us longer to figure that part out than to do the whole job. Thanks again for saving us a service call.
If the drum has lots of play in it to the point where it moves back and forth a few Inches front and back, that could be an indication that your drum bearings are bad as well. That’s a major undertaking
We fixed the washer and it gave us another 3 years or so of service. But eventually, it gave up the ghost and we replaced it. It was well worth the time to fix it to get more time.
Good video on fixing this problem with my LG washer; failure of this hall effect rotor position switch is common on these washing machines and is evidenced by the drum twitching instead of rotating; when I fitted a new one following these instructions it now works perfectly again.
Great video. I was lucky that the main bolt came off without having to brace the drum. I used a 3/4" 17mm socket and gave a couple good torgue jerks and it began to move. I'm winging this whole replacement based on videos and comments that the position sensor is actually the problem, but for a $12 part, it's worth it for me to roll the dice. The only glitch so far is that of the three tabs on the outside of the stator that hold the sensor in place, two of them sheared off when I rotated up to remove the old one. Nothing to be done about that now. The one remaining tab (on the outside plus the one on the inside diameter) seems secure and I didn't use any kind of unusual force to remove the sensor. I would have to assume that the plastic was just brittle. Point being here, to be VERY CAUTIOUS when you remove the old sensor. I might use a spot of superglue where the two tabs now have nothing to hold them. Can't hurt, but I don't know if this plastic will work with super glue. So now I wait for the new sensor to arrive tomorrow to put it all back together.
To continue....part came, I had to notch out the hole for the backside retention clip like someone else said....the hole is not perfectly sized and positioned/aligned. Razor blade and dental pick did it. A small file would have done it, too. I used a Sharpie to mark the part that juts out from the stator since white on white makes it very difficult to see the alignment. I put it all back together and it's working. We'll see how long it lasts. So far, so good.
Exactly what I needed to fix my washer! The only problem I had was the rear cover screws stripping while I was removing them. I had an extraction kit and got that taken care of and the rest was easy!
I've been struggling with this LE problem for months, trying various techniques to get it temporarily running again. I've tried resetting it by holding in the start/pause button for 5 seconds, I've tried unplugging it and leaving it sit over night, I've tried manually rotating the hopper clockwise and counter clockwise, which all are things that have worked before but the error kept coming back after awhile. This time none of those tricks worked, so I used this video to replace the rotor position sensor. Your video was very informative and very easy to follow. Got the sensor replaced without any trouble. However, I am still getting nowhere with this machine. I can get it to fill on a rinse + spin cycle, but when it finishes filling it sits there and does nothing for a couple of minutes then LE error. Sometimes it will attempt to spin and make a grinding noise before flashing the LE error. I can get it to drain by using a quick cycle, but then the same thing happens where it just sits there before giving me an LE error. Its not a too much detergent issue as this is happening with water only. I'm running out of ideas, do you happen to have any?
+Matt Hukill If you hear a grinding noise it could indicate a problem with the bearings. Bad bearing might over heat the motor or cause the inner tub to bind up. You can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
I replaced this part following the directions above. Great step-by-step instructions, so I thank you for that. Unfortunately, replacing the rotor position sensor switch did not resolve the LE code on my machine - in fact, the problem seems to have worsened. Any other recommendations on what could be causing this error code? Thanks in advance.
Scott Hubbard You can try to reset the washer, if there is a problem with the control board and motor not communicating. To reset it unplug the washer and press and hold the start/pause button for 5 seconds. Then plug it back in run a rinse and spin cycle to test it. If there are any soap suds in the tub it could cause the code to pop, make sure you get rid of any excess soap and you should probably use less soap. If that does not clear it then you may have to check the wires in the motor wiring harness and the main control board. If you need more help you can always post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs will help you out.
Thanks for the video! I'm going through the ball bearing replacement and was wondering while I have the circular copper piece (motor/rotor?) off the machine should I try and clean it? It's got what looks like grease and rust on it from the bad bearing gasket leaking on it throughout the years. Or does it need to have grease/lubrication on it in order to function correctly? Some of the wrapped copper wire has so much gunk that the copper wire looks like black wire. Should the whole thing be shiny and new looking on both sides? Thanks!
Great video! It was clear and well done! I have a question. I replaced the sensor switch on my LG washer but I am still getting the same code (LE). Any idea what else it could be? The part I received was 6501KW2002J instead of 6501KW2002A, will this work?
+villez3 There are a few other things to check out if this did not fix it. More than I can type out here, you can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/ LG has been known to change the last letter on parts, if you have any concerns about it working you can give us a call with the model and serial number of the washer.
Is there a video following this steps about changing the bearing follow apart like you mention on 1:57 seals going bad etc. also what's the part number so I can order the blue treat sealer . Thank you very informative video helps alot
that was the bearing cover hanging there the whole bearing is shot along with the seal. you replace the whole tub in the back along with the basket it has the spider attached to the tub.
If you can't remove the 17mm bolt, use impact wrench or have someone hold the drum. If you have trouble removing the round metal cover, tie some rope to its holes and pull off (it's magnetically held in).
Thank you thank you thank you thank you!!!! Also a huge thanks for the close-up shot at 5:39. I started to wonder if I needed to tighten the bolt more because there was a bit of a gap but this showed me that it was all set. I do hear a bit of a clicking noise (once per revolution) - is that normal? I don't remember hearing it before but I also don't recall listening to the washer run
You're welcome! And thank you for your kind feedback. If you need any more help, feel free to contact us. We’re available 7 days a week at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/
That washer thingy hanging there after you removed the rotor. Did you re-use that? Mine is also in kind of rough shape and I'm note sure where to get that part.
Why didn't you clean up the rust? Was the water getting to that location because the gaskets seals broke down? I give you video a B- from not cleaning removing the rust. I also give an A+ for taking the time to produce this video and uploading onto UA-cam. Be safe my friend.
The bolt on mine just will not come off, it just won't move, no matter how much pressure I apply. Any advice on removing it or why it might be so stuck?
Wedged the drum in front with a broom handle and chair. Then used a hammer with quick smacks to the wrench. The bolt was extremely hard to turn for three quarters of the way out. Then it moved freely.
That was quick and dirty, albeit instructive. If that had been your own machine, I bet you'd have cleaned the stator and rotor before assembling it. I assume ocf, that the bearing and seal will be taken care of outside the video.
My father in-law LG Front loader washer (WM3001HWA). It makes very loud noise when the washer spins fast during spinning cycle. What could be the issue?
Great video -- really well produced and clear. Thanks! But my LE problem persists -- not as badly as it did before I replaced the sensor. I guess I have a bearing problem, so I've watched your bearing replacement video too. I really don't want to tear the machine down so I'm wondering whether I can be sure I have a bearing problem and not something else. I get a very brief growling noise during load measurement, a whirring noise on spin-down, and the LE error code with what seems like a moderate load (three bars). There was no evidence of leaking when I took the rotor off to replace the sensor. Should I tear it down or reconsider some other problem? Thanks!
There is no way we can say what it is but grinding and whirring are usually bearing sounds. I am assuming you went through all the reset procedures. If you need more help trouble shooting I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
It's great that you can buy parts online etc, but I'm in Australia, and manufacturers don't sell parts to the public, only to qualified, or authorized repairmen. Easy demo here, but you put it back together with a bad bearing unresolved :-P
Yeah well, I have a wm0642hw and it turned out the problem was the braided anti leak stainless steel hoses, these evident have some kind of valve in them and the water pressure in my house stopped the hose up.. same 1E, lE error.. figured this out after having swapped out the sensor. Put a set of rubber hoses on and I was good to go.
A mi parecer el problema principal fue el retén pasando a dañar los baleros. Y en este vídeo no se corrigió el problema principal. No entendí si en otro vídeo se realizaría pero eso no es ético para el cliente
i have a older LG front load washer, IT STARTED A WASH AND QUIT, IT ,I CHECKED THE PUMP IT FINE, WSHER HAS A LOUD HUMM, I CAN SPIN DRUM BY HAND, DON'T SEEM TO BE LOCKED UP, JUST SETS THERE AND HUMM;S
replaced the sensor. Ran a load of just water no issue. Put clothes in and the error came back. We checked the wiring and it looked good, What else could be wrong?
I have a GE WGT9350C0PL. I replaced the entire stator assembly because of the hall sensor. This part looks like the exact same hall sensor that is on my GE washer. Are they compatible?
stan senior Unfortunately we cannot cross reference from brand to brand. I would suggest getting the one that is called for by the model number of the appliance.
My neighbor replaced the sensor for me the other day, but now the machine is making noises it didn't make before. It's sounds like a grinding noise along with a low squeal. I know he skipped the step where you unscrew the cables going to the sensors. Could that have something to do with it? He also didn't use liquid blue thread lock. Could that be the problem? Before I was at least use the machine once in a while, but now it won't even complete a spin cycle without getting an error code.
Sounds like something may not have been put back together right, if the bolt came loose the pulley would start to wobble. Without knowing what you have, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
+AppliancePartsPros Thank you! I took it apart again and figured out that he had snapped the sensor in the wrong spot. It's all fixed and running. No more LE error.
+AppliancePartsPros Thank you! I took it apart again and figured out that he had snapped the sensor in the wrong spot. It's all fixed and running. No more LE error.
Do I have to disconnect the connecting wires to replace the sensor? I'm having a hard time disconnecting one wire. I'm squeezing it but it's not disconnecting. Almost broke my nail lol.
MyNycable We showed taking the whole stator off so we could easily show you how to remove the sensor from it. You only have to remove the wire connector from the sensor and then change the sensor while holding the stator. I hope the nail survived!
if the rotor position sensor doesn't fix it, is there a way to troubleshoot? is there a way to test the sensor (maybe the new one I bought is also bad...)
We'd be happy to help you troubleshoot, Michel. We can use your model number to look at schematics for your particular appliance to see if anything else could be causing that problem, and we can also talk you through checking the sensor. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We also have a free repair forum where the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem: forum.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
So you're getting the LE error code, and you replaced the rotor position sensor, and that hasn't resolved it, correct? Does it have any other symptoms? Try double checking the wiring to and from the rotor position sensor and the control board first.
Thanks for the follow up. Yes that is correct. I double checked the wiring and everything looks okay. The LE is the only symptom I see but it doesn't really do anything else because of the LE error. I can do the "no spin" cycle and that pumps out fine but anything else, fills the tub, appears to go to a cycle that requires spinning the tub and it never spins and it never gets any further. Thanks again
I did some more looking into it. There's not a definitive test for the RPS, so the next step would be to replace the harness for the RPS since there can be a connection issue that is not visible. If this does not correct the issue, there is most likely an issue with the motor control board.
I don't understand why you didn't clean up the rotor of all the rust they are pieces of metal that shouldn't be near the stator I know you are just showing how to do RPS but not very professional looking great video
Well, if you have an issue with the bearing and or the seal, this would not make the repair cost-effective. If you have to replace all three items, you are probably exceeding the 50% replacement cost of the machine.
While I appreciate all the information, and trying to help out the average homeowner, no homeowner is going to attempt a repair of this magnitude, nor would I recommend it. (As someone in the business for 25 years) You're better off replacing with a new machine, and certainly not one manufactured by LG.
Would the rotor position sensor be bad when the tub spins out of round (oblong)? There is a 1" gap between the SS tub and the housing and a 1/4" pap on the opposite side. No bearing wobble, no bearing noise. I pulled the tub all apart, no front panel, no rotor, no water leaks, I'm ready to remove the SS tub to inspect if the shaft is bent but I'd rather not to. It spins awfully fast & sound like a jet. Model LG FrontLLoader WM2277HW 2004 model. All else looks fine & like brand new, we only wash 1 or 2 loads per week. Any help appreciated. (I spun the motor also by hand using a breaker bar and there is no noise) I did find the filter full of small & tiny strips of what appears melted plastic shaved pieces 2" long melted to drops of hard plastic. The only plastic damage I found man made & caused is behind the top weight to sit flat against the housing. The boot looks perfect.) Thank You.
what did you figure out, I have the 2016 Samsung front loader washer. I've took it completely apart at least 4 times now. The bearings, water seal , spyder, shaft, splines, outer plastic tubes, all look brand new. I replaced the shock absorbers, cleaned the entire water system coming in and draining out, cleaned drain pump it's working fine. The wash and rinse cycle seem to work just fine. Every time it gets to the spin cycle it starts wobbling side to side and gets so bad the cycle stops for a minute or so and repeats the same process. I have noticed that the inner drum seems to be a little warped ( very little) that's my focus right now a in Hope's it will take care of the problem. I have SERIOUS DOUBTS that it will fix it as the machine itself is supposed to maintain balance even when there's an out of balance load. I know it's been awhile since you posted this comment, and it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED if you see this comment and share your Wisdom !! thx..
hey i need help i have lg direct drive washing machine motor till me how i can start it from external source i means not from power coming from machine control board its self i want to run it from outside power how many voltage i have to give ac or dc? and witch color wire their is same wire u can see in video red yellow and blue please help me thanks
+muhammad zubair If you cannot determine this by reading the wiring diagram you can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
sir acutely i have lg direct drive washing machine model no WD-14336AD it was not working i brought another one but the washing machine motor is okay i checked it now i need help from u that i want to use this direct drive motor in other experiments u just till me that their are three wires coming to motor red,yellow & blue i want to run this motor from external source of power just i need from u till me how many voltages ac or dc? i have to give and witch wires i have to use thankx
+muhammad zubair This is a model that is not sold in the US, we do not have any info on it. You can try to post it in our forum and see if anyone there is familiar with it or maybe contact a local tech who works on these and is familiar with the voltage, etc.
If you're looking for parts or technical advice, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We also have a free repair forum where the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem: forum.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Se isso estiver quebrado, você pode obter um código de erro "LE" e a máquina de lavar roupa pode não funcionar corretamente. Se você precisar de mais ajuda, pode ligar para o nosso número de telefone 1-877-477-7278 ou conversar conosco no nosso site www.appliancepartspros.com/.
No está seguro de lo que quieres decir por el retenedor? Aquí está el vídeo para el sello trasero y de los rodamientos: Washer Seal and Bearings (part #4036ER2004A and others)-How To Replace
Why would you locktite something you are coming back to fix in another video? The seal popped off and the bearings are no longer protected and will throw out all the grease so that the whole rod abd assemble breaks apart. That's a $400 repair when all you had to do is repack with synthetic grease and replace with new seal. Now you can take everything apart including both bearings and spending a few hours putting it back together.
Make sure that you're using HE detergent in your machine and that you aren't using too much even if you are. The "LE" error code can be caused by excessive suds in the drum. Otherwise, it sounds like it may be a different problem with your machine, then. We'd be happy to help you figure out what's going on! We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number. You can use this tool on our website to help you find it: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
AppliancePartsPros thanks for the response. We only use HE Persil and then only use just around a table spoon, something we learned after first sensor fail lol. Could the stator be bad?
We have the part available for considerably cheaper than that, and we provide the necessary know how for people to DIY their own repairs without needing to hire a repair technician. :)
This guy does not clean anything... I would kick him out of my house and never recommend him to a friend...and he never fixed the bearing or seal... He can come back when the same thing happens in a few months
ok...... so if the rotator won't come off to the point that I had my 16 yr old son pushing on the front to balance it as I pulled on it with a fucking pry bar and it won't come off, then what?
+alan wilcox I have never had a stuck rotor before, they should just pull off. The rotor center is plastic but you could heat it with a blow dryer to see if that helps, just do not damage it with the heat.
I took my washer apart to change the bearings and noticed a broken shock in the back. I then noticed my stator and rotor were full of what looked like dried grease, and I was thinking I might want to replace those as well, but after seeing your video here I think I'll save that $200 since yours look as "dirty" as mine. Thanks for showing the replacement on older machine!
Thank you so much for the easy to follow video. We are in our mid 70's and had not problem until we put everything back together. When we went to put the stator cover back on, the shaft did not come forward and it took us forever to figure out what had happened. It finally dawned on us that the drum might have shifted. My husband went to the front and push on the drum and sure enough, the shaft came back. It took us longer to figure that part out than to do the whole job. Thanks again for saving us a service call.
Awesome, glad the video helped you get the washer up and running!
U
If the drum has lots of play in it to the point where it moves back and forth a few Inches front and back, that could be an indication that your drum bearings are bad as well. That’s a major undertaking
We fixed the washer and it gave us another 3 years or so of service. But eventually, it gave up the ghost and we replaced it. It was well worth the time to fix it to get more time.
The shaft always comes back 😅
Matt is the king of appliancepartpros. Give him a huge raise, his videos rock.
Good video on fixing this problem with my LG washer; failure of this hall effect rotor position switch is common on these washing machines and is evidenced by the drum twitching instead of rotating; when I fitted a new one following these instructions it now works perfectly again.
We're glad we could help you with your repair!
Thank you for the video. I have replaced one other part on my LG washer and both relatively easy with videos like this.
Thanks Matt. Video is very clear and easy to follow. My Kenmore is humming once again. 👍
Easy as pie! Washer back to normal. Thanks Appliance Parts Pros!
+Jerry M Awesome, glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Great video. I was lucky that the main bolt came off without having to brace the drum. I used a 3/4" 17mm socket and gave a couple good torgue jerks and it began to move. I'm winging this whole replacement based on videos and comments that the position sensor is actually the problem, but for a $12 part, it's worth it for me to roll the dice. The only glitch so far is that of the three tabs on the outside of the stator that hold the sensor in place, two of them sheared off when I rotated up to remove the old one. Nothing to be done about that now. The one remaining tab (on the outside plus the one on the inside diameter) seems secure and I didn't use any kind of unusual force to remove the sensor. I would have to assume that the plastic was just brittle. Point being here, to be VERY CAUTIOUS when you remove the old sensor. I might use a spot of superglue where the two tabs now have nothing to hold them. Can't hurt, but I don't know if this plastic will work with super glue. So now I wait for the new sensor to arrive tomorrow to put it all back together.
To continue....part came, I had to notch out the hole for the backside retention clip like someone else said....the hole is not perfectly sized and positioned/aligned. Razor blade and dental pick did it. A small file would have done it, too. I used a Sharpie to mark the part that juts out from the stator since white on white makes it very difficult to see the alignment. I put it all back together and it's working. We'll see how long it lasts. So far, so good.
Exactly what I needed to fix my washer! The only problem I had was the rear cover screws stripping while I was removing them. I had an extraction kit and got that taken care of and the rest was easy!
This fixed my LE code! Thanks for the great instructions, down to socket sizes!
You're welcome!
EXCELLENT Video. Very well done. Straight-forward without excess
I'm glad we could help.
I'm a fairly capable handy man around the house, but appliance repair i'm not, so i'm extremely thankful for this video. Great Job!
I've been struggling with this LE problem for months, trying various techniques to get it temporarily running again. I've tried resetting it by holding in the start/pause button for 5 seconds, I've tried unplugging it and leaving it sit over night, I've tried manually rotating the hopper clockwise and counter clockwise, which all are things that have worked before but the error kept coming back after awhile.
This time none of those tricks worked, so I used this video to replace the rotor position sensor. Your video was very informative and very easy to follow. Got the sensor replaced without any trouble. However, I am still getting nowhere with this machine. I can get it to fill on a rinse + spin cycle, but when it finishes filling it sits there and does nothing for a couple of minutes then LE error. Sometimes it will attempt to spin and make a grinding noise before flashing the LE error. I can get it to drain by using a quick cycle, but then the same thing happens where it just sits there before giving me an LE error.
Its not a too much detergent issue as this is happening with water only. I'm running out of ideas, do you happen to have any?
+Matt Hukill If you hear a grinding noise it could indicate a problem with the bearings. Bad bearing might over heat the motor or cause the inner tub to bind up. You can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
replaced actual rotor,,teeth on rotor were stripped...pull off rotor and inspect!
I love this job I make good money doing it.
If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Thank you so much for the video!!! You just saved this amateur a ton of time and money. My washer is fixed!!
I replaced this part following the directions above. Great step-by-step instructions, so I thank you for that. Unfortunately, replacing the rotor position sensor switch did not resolve the LE code on my machine - in fact, the problem seems to have worsened. Any other recommendations on what could be causing this error code? Thanks in advance.
Scott Hubbard You can try to reset the washer, if there is a problem with the control board and motor not communicating. To reset it unplug the washer and press and hold the start/pause button for 5 seconds. Then plug it back in run a rinse and spin cycle to test it. If there are any soap suds in the tub it could cause the code to pop, make sure you get rid of any excess soap and you should probably use less soap. If that does not clear it then you may have to check the wires in the motor wiring harness and the main control board. If you need more help you can always post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs will help you out.
Great video, informative and helpful. Walked me through the process, washer is all better!
+Bill Vincent Glad the video helped you get the washer up and running!
Great video. Easy to follow with clear instructions!
Thank you! Glad we were able to help you out. If there is anything we can hep you with in the future please let us know.
Replaced drain pump and door lock but that didn’t fix my washer. This sensors did.Thanks!!!!
Its probably and old coment but was the probblem you experienced with your washer?
Thanks for the advice. I did the repair on the weekend and it worked.
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Thanks for the video! I'm going through the ball bearing replacement and was wondering while I have the circular copper piece (motor/rotor?) off the machine should I try and clean it? It's got what looks like grease and rust on it from the bad bearing gasket leaking on it throughout the years. Or does it need to have grease/lubrication on it in order to function correctly? Some of the wrapped copper wire has so much gunk that the copper wire looks like black wire. Should the whole thing be shiny and new looking on both sides? Thanks!
Great video! It was clear and well done! I have a question. I replaced the sensor switch on my LG washer but I am still getting the same code (LE). Any idea what else it could be? The part I received was 6501KW2002J instead of 6501KW2002A, will this work?
+villez3 There are a few other things to check out if this did not fix it. More than I can type out here, you can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/ LG has been known to change the last letter on parts, if you have any concerns about it working you can give us a call with the model and serial number of the washer.
EASY fix thanks to your video. MANY THANKS
Is there a video following this steps about changing the bearing follow apart like you mention on 1:57 seals going bad etc. also what's the part number so I can order the blue treat sealer . Thank you very informative video helps alot
that was the bearing cover hanging there the whole bearing is shot along with the seal. you replace the whole tub in the back along with the basket it has the spider attached to the tub.
If you can't remove the 17mm bolt, use impact wrench or have someone hold the drum. If you have trouble removing the round metal cover, tie some rope to its holes and pull off (it's magnetically held in).
I used a breaker bar and it came off with a quick spin
Thank you so much saved me so much money!
Excellent! Washer is running again after watching this.
revsmitty Glad the video helped you get the washer up and running!
Doing this again. What are we doing to cause this piece to keep breaking?
Thank you thank you thank you thank you!!!!
Also a huge thanks for the close-up shot at 5:39. I started to wonder if I needed to tighten the bolt more because there was a bit of a gap but this showed me that it was all set.
I do hear a bit of a clicking noise (once per revolution) - is that normal? I don't remember hearing it before but I also don't recall listening to the washer run
You're welcome! And thank you for your kind feedback. If you need any more help, feel free to contact us. We’re available 7 days a week at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/
I can't get that bolt off, I think God himself torqued that bad boy
I used visp grip pliers
Breaker bar made it easy for me.
17mm socket & wrench. I have done this repair many times.
Thanks for this, very helpful video!
You are very welcome!
That washer thingy hanging there after you removed the rotor. Did you re-use that? Mine is also in kind of rough shape and I'm note sure where to get that part.
Hi ..i have 18kg front loading washer and is it differ this part for my washer or same 6501KW2002A ?
Why didn't you clean up the rust? Was the water getting to that location because the gaskets seals broke down? I give you video a B- from not cleaning removing the rust. I also give an A+ for taking the time to produce this video and uploading onto UA-cam. Be safe my friend.
@ 3:37 "To put the newww rotor poswitionsenzerswitch on" HAHA :)
The bolt on mine just will not come off, it just won't move, no matter how much pressure I apply. Any advice on removing it or why it might be so stuck?
Wedged the drum in front with a broom handle and chair. Then used a hammer with quick smacks to the wrench. The bolt was extremely hard to turn for three quarters of the way out. Then it moved freely.
That was quick and dirty, albeit instructive. If that had been your own machine, I bet you'd have cleaned the stator and rotor before assembling it. I assume ocf, that the bearing and seal will be taken care of outside the video.
How do you clean the stator and rotor? Mines looked like the one in the video but can’t find any info on cleaning. TY
Do you know what the ohm readings should be on the hall sensor and on which pins to verify it's the problem?
What is the model number of your washer?
Easy fix. Harder to find the part number than to replace.
If there is something we can help you with please let us know.
new rotors do not come with the sensor and you cant order it. the stator connection has changed and the conrtol board no longer uses the sensor plug.
My father in-law LG Front loader washer (WM3001HWA). It makes very loud noise when the washer spins fast during spinning cycle. What could be the issue?
Great video -- really well produced and clear. Thanks!
But my LE problem persists -- not as badly as it did before I replaced the sensor.
I guess I have a bearing problem, so I've watched your bearing replacement video too. I really don't want to tear the machine down so I'm wondering whether I can be sure I have a bearing problem and not something else.
I get a very brief growling noise during load measurement, a whirring noise on spin-down, and the LE error code with what seems like a moderate load (three bars). There was no evidence of leaking when I took the rotor off to replace the sensor.
Should I tear it down or reconsider some other problem? Thanks!
There is no way we can say what it is but grinding and whirring are usually bearing sounds. I am assuming you went through all the reset procedures. If you need more help trouble shooting I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
It's great that you can buy parts online etc, but I'm in Australia, and manufacturers don't sell parts to the public, only to qualified, or authorized repairmen. Easy demo here, but you put it back together with a bad bearing unresolved :-P
We made a separate video for that: ua-cam.com/video/Y-eAvoBI59Y/v-deo.html&lc=z13sfljphkvoytild23gdtmbity2w3x4a04
Question. We followed the instructions...and to our surprise the rps sensor is missing from the washer. Ours doesnt have it. What do we do now??
I can't budge the motor rotor. Any suggestions?
You guys are great keep up the great work
Thanks! We'll do our best. :)
In my washing machine 3 of these sensors broke in a few months. The Vcc is 11.5 volt. What could be causing this flaw?
IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW HOW TO TEST THE MOTOR AND THE SENSOR TO DETERMINE IF THEY ARE BAD.
Thank you much
Thank you
You're welcome!
Thank you good jobs
Yeah well, I have a wm0642hw and it turned out the problem was the braided anti leak stainless steel hoses, these evident have some kind of valve in them and the water pressure in my house stopped the hose up.. same 1E, lE error.. figured this out after having swapped out the sensor. Put a set of rubber hoses on and I was good to go.
Thanks for that tip!
A mi parecer el problema principal fue el retén pasando a dañar los baleros. Y en este vídeo no se corrigió el problema principal. No entendí si en otro vídeo se realizaría pero eso no es ético para el cliente
i have a older LG front load washer, IT STARTED A WASH AND QUIT, IT ,I CHECKED THE PUMP IT FINE, WSHER HAS A LOUD HUMM, I CAN SPIN DRUM BY HAND, DON'T SEEM TO BE LOCKED UP, JUST SETS THERE AND HUMM;S
Tks too much , very usefull for me
replaced the sensor. Ran a load of just water no issue. Put clothes in and the error came back. We checked the wiring and it looked good, What else could be wrong?
Sir. tt. Error. Coming. In same. Washing machine 18 kg. It says. Thermostat problem. But i change it but its not working
Just wondering if the sealant you use is a "Loktite" type or more of a teflon tape type product?
Scott Giggie We used the liquid blue thread lock. Hope the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Is that what the stuff is called blue thread sealer?
I have a GE WGT9350C0PL. I replaced the entire stator assembly because of the hall sensor. This part looks like the exact same hall sensor that is on my GE washer. Are they compatible?
stan senior Unfortunately we cannot cross reference from brand to brand. I would suggest getting the one that is called for by the model number of the appliance.
Thanks for your reply.
replace rear tub assembly and basket and tub seal to replace bearing.
if we use the bearing as position sensor is more accurate and less hackable
Thank you sir
that rotor is space propulsion readied.vwas it a leak
What about bearing u have not Changed that
Bijay Singh Negi We did do a video on the washer tub bearing: ua-cam.com/video/Y-eAvoBI59Y/v-deo.html
My neighbor replaced the sensor for me the other day, but now the machine is making noises it didn't make before. It's sounds like a grinding noise along with a low squeal. I know he skipped the step where you unscrew the cables going to the sensors. Could that have something to do with it? He also didn't use liquid blue thread lock. Could that be the problem? Before I was at least use the machine once in a while, but now it won't even complete a spin cycle without getting an error code.
Sounds like something may not have been put back together right, if the bolt came loose the pulley would start to wobble. Without knowing what you have, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
+AppliancePartsPros Thank you! I took it apart again and figured out that he had snapped the sensor in the wrong spot. It's all fixed and running. No more LE error.
+AppliancePartsPros Thank you! I took it apart again and figured out that he had snapped the sensor in the wrong spot. It's all fixed and running. No more LE error.
Awesome, glad you got the washer all fixed up!
What does the code nd mean for a Samsung front washer?
Why do you shut off the water while completing this repair?
We always recommend shutting off power and water before all of our repairs, just to be cautious!
Thanks for this video safe me $100 for service Call
Do I have to disconnect the connecting wires to replace the sensor? I'm having a hard time disconnecting one wire. I'm squeezing it but it's not disconnecting. Almost broke my nail lol.
MyNycable We showed taking the whole stator off so we could easily show you how to remove the sensor from it. You only have to remove the wire connector from the sensor and then change the sensor while holding the stator. I hope the nail survived!
AppliancePartsPros z
if the rotor position sensor doesn't fix it, is there a way to troubleshoot? is there a way to test the sensor (maybe the new one I bought is also bad...)
We'd be happy to help you troubleshoot, Michel. We can use your model number to look at schematics for your particular appliance to see if anything else could be causing that problem, and we can also talk you through checking the sensor. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We also have a free repair forum where the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem: forum.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Wow! I wasn't expecting a response so quickly! That's great. My washer is a FAFW4011LW0. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
So you're getting the LE error code, and you replaced the rotor position sensor, and that hasn't resolved it, correct? Does it have any other symptoms? Try double checking the wiring to and from the rotor position sensor and the control board first.
Thanks for the follow up. Yes that is correct. I double checked the wiring and everything looks okay. The LE is the only symptom I see but it doesn't really do anything else because of the LE error. I can do the "no spin" cycle and that pumps out fine but anything else, fills the tub, appears to go to a cycle that requires spinning the tub and it never spins and it never gets any further. Thanks again
I did some more looking into it. There's not a definitive test for the RPS, so the next step would be to replace the harness for the RPS since there can be a connection issue that is not visible. If this does not correct the issue, there is most likely an issue with the motor control board.
How to check this part
I don't understand why you didn't clean up the rotor of all the rust they are pieces of metal that shouldn't be near the stator I know you are just showing how to do RPS but not very professional looking great video
How do you clean the stator and rotor if they look like the ones in the video?
@@Xclusive615
Electronics spray that cleans and dries
This is awesome !!! :)
Glad we could help!
please do you know stator 1kw max 2kw
220v
Wats d prize of the sensor?
what if the rotor won"t come off?
Well, if you have an issue with the bearing and or the seal, this would not make the repair cost-effective. If you have to replace all three items, you are probably exceeding the 50% replacement cost of the machine.
Dave Harrison The paid labor is what makes changing the bearings and seals so expensive. The parts themselves are not that expensive.
While I appreciate all the information, and trying to help out the average homeowner, no homeowner is going to attempt a repair of this magnitude, nor would I recommend it. (As someone in the business for 25 years) You're better off replacing with a new machine, and certainly not one manufactured by LG.
Dave Harrison The bearing and seal video is a popular video, many people are doing the repair!
I suppose some people have a few hours to kill on weekends. More power to them!
Would the rotor position sensor be bad when the tub spins out of round (oblong)? There is a 1" gap between the SS tub and the housing and a 1/4" pap on the opposite side. No bearing wobble, no bearing noise. I pulled the tub all apart, no front panel, no rotor, no water leaks, I'm ready to remove the SS tub to inspect if the shaft is bent but I'd rather not to. It spins awfully fast & sound like a jet. Model LG FrontLLoader WM2277HW 2004 model. All else looks fine & like brand new, we only wash 1 or 2 loads per week. Any help appreciated. (I spun the motor also by hand using a breaker bar and there is no noise) I did find the filter full of small & tiny strips of what appears melted plastic shaved pieces 2" long melted to drops of hard plastic. The only plastic damage I found man made & caused is behind the top weight to sit flat against the housing. The boot looks perfect.) Thank You.
what did you figure out, I have the 2016 Samsung front loader washer. I've took it completely apart at least 4 times now. The bearings, water seal , spyder, shaft, splines, outer plastic tubes, all look brand new. I replaced the shock absorbers, cleaned the entire water system coming in and draining out, cleaned drain pump it's working fine. The wash and rinse cycle seem to work just fine. Every time it gets to the spin cycle it starts wobbling side to side and gets so bad the cycle stops for a minute or so and repeats the same process. I have noticed that the inner drum seems to be a little warped ( very little) that's my focus right now a in Hope's it will take care of the problem. I have SERIOUS DOUBTS that it will fix it as the machine itself is supposed to maintain balance even when there's an out of balance load. I know it's been awhile since you posted this comment, and it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED if you see this comment and share your Wisdom !! thx..
hey i need help i have lg direct drive washing machine motor till me how i can start it from external source i means not from power coming from machine control board its self i want to run it from outside power how many voltage i have to give ac or dc? and witch color wire their is same wire u can see in video red yellow and blue please help me thanks
+muhammad zubair If you cannot determine this by reading the wiring diagram you can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
sir acutely i have lg direct drive washing machine model no WD-14336AD it was not working i brought another one but the washing machine motor is okay i checked it now i need help from u that i want to use this direct drive motor in other experiments u just till me that their are three wires coming to motor red,yellow & blue i want to run this motor from external source of power just i need from u till me how many voltages ac or dc? i have to give and witch wires i have to use thankx
+muhammad zubair This is a model that is not sold in the US, we do not have any info on it. You can try to post it in our forum and see if anyone there is familiar with it or maybe contact a local tech who works on these and is familiar with the voltage, etc.
thanks for ur corporation
what if it spins one way but not the other?
thank you
You can post this question along with the model number on our repair forum and our techs will help you out!
Buen video pero no reparo la falla de la fuga de agua
I opened my rotor but I didn't find sensor and still the LE error on
Same here
Replacing hose plumb to new plumb filling for Bosch washing machine
If you're looking for parts or technical advice, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We also have a free repair forum where the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem: forum.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Eso que le sacó que es???
Como testar esse motor diretor
Se isso estiver quebrado, você pode obter um código de erro "LE" e a máquina de lavar roupa pode não funcionar corretamente. Se você precisar de mais ajuda, pode ligar para o nosso número de telefone 1-877-477-7278 ou conversar conosco no nosso site www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Não vai consertar o vazamento no retentor?????
No está seguro de lo que quieres decir por el retenedor? Aquí está el vídeo para el sello trasero y de los rodamientos: Washer Seal and Bearings (part #4036ER2004A and others)-How To Replace
How to know the symptom of this issue?
A lot of times you will get an error code such as LE, which will let you know the part has failed.
@@appliancepartspros I replaced the door lock that fixed this issue.
thanks .
Elijah Hannigan Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
why you didn't change the bearing and seal ?
We did that repair in another video! You can find it on our channel or website.
Why would you locktite something you are coming back to fix in another video? The seal popped off and the bearings are no longer protected and will throw out all the grease so that the whole rod abd assemble breaks apart. That's a $400 repair when all you had to do is repack with synthetic grease and replace with new seal. Now you can take everything apart including both bearings and spending a few hours putting it back together.
how to know the sensor was broke? what is symptom ?
The drum does not spin but the door lock can cause the same issue.
he left that bearing in. What??
We have a video on the bearing here: ua-cam.com/video/Y-eAvoBI59Y/v-deo.html
I replaced the part twice and the error came back after a few loads
Make sure that you're using HE detergent in your machine and that you aren't using too much even if you are. The "LE" error code can be caused by excessive suds in the drum. Otherwise, it sounds like it may be a different problem with your machine, then. We'd be happy to help you figure out what's going on! We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number. You can use this tool on our website to help you find it: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
AppliancePartsPros thanks for the response. We only use HE Persil and then only use just around a table spoon, something we learned after first sensor fail lol. Could the stator be bad?
I replaced the door lock and fixed the problem once. I'm back here to replace the sensor.
thanks all i need now is a clean cut haircut
Y el rodamiento?
success video :)
Glad we could help!
Or you can buy a new one. Servise price 200e but new washer is 350e.
We have the part available for considerably cheaper than that, and we provide the necessary know how for people to DIY their own repairs without needing to hire a repair technician. :)
This guy does not clean anything... I would kick him out of my house and never recommend him to a friend...and he never fixed the bearing or seal... He can come back when the same thing happens in a few months
ok...... so if the rotator won't come off to the point that I had my 16 yr old son pushing on the front to balance it as I pulled on it with a fucking pry bar and it won't come off, then what?
+alan wilcox I have never had a stuck rotor before, they should just pull off. The rotor center is plastic but you could heat it with a blow dryer to see if that helps, just do not damage it with the heat.
funcionamiento
funcionamiento de la lavadora LG TONNER