I like this strategy with a slight twist. Use the DC instead. Wait until the DC is on base then make you place bets. Go ahead and use 6 & 8 at $15 which pays $17 (if your don't lands on 6 or 8, move it to 5 or 9). What I like about the DC: if player hits his point, you win with a 7 on the comeout with every one else, you don't suffer through long come outs with a lot of 7 & 11s, and the table usually doesn't notice your don't play and dislike you.
The other alternative I was thinking of you can afford $30 more to make it $180 or even just $20, for $170 bank roll, you put $1 on any seven and 11 to hedge on the Come out. With the DC, you are vulnerable to the point-7 out still.
Interesting strategy. However, I have 3 questions: 1) When placing bets on the 4 and 10, why aren't you paying the vig? 2) When the puck moves to a point, where you have a previous bet, why do you move the bet to an empty point? For example, @ 15:07 on the Come Out roll you have your chips on the 4, when the point established becomes the 4, you move your stack to the 10 and leave the 4 empty. Why don't you leave your money as it is? Maybe keep it at the 4 and add $15 to the 10? 3) When do you know when it's time to transition from the dark side to the light side?
Thanks for the comments and questions. I will answer them as best I can. 1. No Vig because this was one of my earlier videos and it was easier to show the strategy without the Vig. It is a lot to be the dealer, shooter, and narrator. 2. No real good reason. Mostly because I didn’t get a lot of repeat rolls so I shifted it off the point. 3. I don’t show it well in the video but the intent is to not shift to the light side until the shooter pays for themselves. Can’t do it on first shooter because you won on 7 out. If second shooter gets 2 hits and you can go inside, then transition. Each shooter is independent. You have 10 shooters of bankroll. Each shooter is bet separately. If you are down and a shooter wins enough to transition before they 7 out, win as much as you can and reset the bankroll at the end of the roll.
Interesting. What exactly triggers the switch to the light side? Is it a certain level of winnings, and if so, what amount? Also, would I be correct in assuming that if you switched to the light side and got wiped out by a PSO for example, you would start back at the beginning with the dark side strategy?
Yes, if you get wiped, just repeat process. I think that is one of the strengths of the strategy. The trigger to light side is at least one win on the 5 or 9 before a 7. That will give $81 for the next shooter to go $66 inside plus $15 on 4 or 10.
I played this through 5x on WinCraps Pro simulator .. got cleaned out 3 of the 5 .. as you say, the dice will tell the story .. was only able to get out of the dark twice in those 5 play throughs! I'll try with live dice on my set up this weekend .. not giving up on this yet, but the winds of fortune are not currently blowing my way on this one .. thanks for sharing it though!
@@OnPointCraps I’ll review your strategy again to make sure I’m doing it right, then play a few with live roll and see if there’s a difference. I’ll report Back after I play about 10 rolls through with live dice.
@@OnPointCraps As indicated in a prior comment I ran this system through 10 times on a “live” roll board and here are the results: Given a $150 bankroll with a 20% gain ($30 profit) defined as a “win”, the system went 8 wins to 2 losses (an 80% chance of a “win”). Had I cashed out after each “win”, the average take home would have been $48 (an average gain of 32%). It took an average of 6.3 shooters to obtain a “win”. Had I pocketed each $150 gained and then played out the remaining short stack, the average take home would have been $85 (an average gain of 57%). It took an average of 18 shooters to run the remaining short stack to not-playable. The peak greater-than-20%-gain values ranged from $102 (68%) to $305 (303%) so - as we all know - timing and dice will dictate our day. I would recommend anyone planning to use this in the casino to practice on a “live” roll board prior to using your hard earned cash. One very important difference with the “live” roll board verses the computer simulator was that it was MUCH easier to track the usable “winnings” in your rack by physically keeping them separated from the Don’t offerings; this dictated when to advance to stage 2, then 3 and also how much you could actually play when starting with stage 3. Overall, this system looks VERY legitimate for a somewhat small bankroll on a $15 table. I plan to use this in the casino within the next few weeks and I’ll report back. Good luck to all!
Great video,, I will try this.. Question,, I'm having a hard time finding the small buy, lay, on and off buttons. What are they called if I was ordering them?
Thanks Mike. I have rolled this out 3 times w/ profits each time. I did not even make it to the end of the initial $150. It will definitely go into the tool belt for live play.
Great question. It is more of an art than a science. If the winnings in your rack allow you to transition and play with money that didn’t start in your bankroll, go for it. Typically it means you have hit at least two numbers during the ”hybrid” portion of the strategy.
Ensure you set aside $15 per shooter. That is the base bet for each shooter. When you “winnings” portion of your rack supports $66 inside, then you transition off the don’t. I hope that makes sense.
Great strategy!! I know you said $15 per shooter but at 7:50 the shooter rolled a 7 on the come out. The shooter would continue to roll and you placed another $15 for the next come out. Now, are you supposed to place another $15 on the same shooter, or was that a mistake? Still a GREAT strategy!!
Good question. I would place another $15 for that shooter. I don’t let them burn me more than twice though. If it was a second come out 7/11 I would then wait for the next shooter.
The strategy would play the exact same way. Just use $5 bets instead of $15. With $150 you will be able to play a lot longer. In theory you could play this with a $50 bankroll.
Where in the hell is a $5 table at? Here in Tampa at the Hard Rock it's mostly $25 minimums and if you get there before 3 PM weekdays you might be lucky enough to squeeze your way onto the one $15 table while it lasts.
@@ErnieMayberry True, but I have had casinos tell me wrong bet and I don't feel like arguing. Easier to just go with the $18 bet on 6/8 and use this strategy on 5/9
@@OnPointCraps That's strange. Every casino I played in, they are fine with it and are used to seeing it on a $15 table. Every once in while a new dealer might ask me if I want to make it proper, but no pressure at all.
Whenever there’s a 7 on the come out ,why not cover pass and don’t pass to neutralize the comeout roll and then play the dont odds?Sinve 7 already just showed up then there’s a good chance that it will show up again before the point……Ogherwise you’ll just be standing there for who knows how long waiting for the shooter to 7 out before you can bet against the next shooter….
great topic ............low br grrrrrind,,,,,,,,,,,,,,true craps ..........not the bs 5k BR ......la la land that the wannabes do............lets get real......i am ddp1
Thanks! I really appreciate this comment. That is the goal of my channel. Realistic bankroll with strategies for newer players. I am glad you liked it.
@@blacksector4034 I have seen people chuck them down there. Random is random. I believe dice influence is a thing so I can see if that is what you are taking about. However, most shooters, even if they are setting dice don’t have real control and the dice are random.
It's all random. He can do a 360 spin. Do a back flip. Flip you off for questioning his roll and then throw them back handed. All while eyes were closed
I like this strategy with a slight twist. Use the DC instead. Wait until the DC is on base then make you place bets. Go ahead and use 6 & 8 at $15 which pays $17 (if your don't lands on 6 or 8, move it to 5 or 9).
What I like about the DC: if player hits his point, you win with a 7 on the comeout with every one else, you don't suffer through long come outs with a lot of 7 & 11s, and the table usually doesn't notice your don't play and dislike you.
Interesting. I may have to roll this one out.
The other alternative I was thinking of you can afford $30 more to make it $180 or even just $20, for $170 bank roll, you put $1 on any seven and 11 to hedge on the Come out.
With the DC, you are vulnerable to the point-7 out still.
@@djsimoneit7003 good idea. I typically don’t hedge. It may be worth it in this case though.
Thanks for the video brother! Nice win
Thanks Waylon. I like this one. It has been pretty consistent.
Bravo, Mike! Nice comeback
It has a way of regaining losses. I am definitely trying this the next time I hit the casino.
Hey Mike. Proud of what you're doing.
Thanks Jim. I am starting to get the hang of it. Hopefully it will help some new players.
Interesting strategy. However, I have 3 questions:
1) When placing bets on the 4 and 10, why aren't you paying the vig?
2) When the puck moves to a point, where you have a previous bet, why do you move the bet to an empty point? For example, @ 15:07 on the Come Out roll you have your chips on the 4, when the point established becomes the 4, you move your stack to the 10 and leave the 4 empty. Why don't you leave your money as it is? Maybe keep it at the 4 and add $15 to the 10?
3) When do you know when it's time to transition from the dark side to the light side?
Thanks for the comments and questions. I will answer them as best I can.
1. No Vig because this was one of my earlier videos and it was easier to show the strategy without the Vig. It is a lot to be the dealer, shooter, and narrator.
2. No real good reason. Mostly because I didn’t get a lot of repeat rolls so I shifted it off the point.
3. I don’t show it well in the video but the intent is to not shift to the light side until the shooter pays for themselves. Can’t do it on first shooter because you won on 7 out. If second shooter gets 2 hits and you can go inside, then transition. Each shooter is independent. You have 10 shooters of bankroll. Each shooter is bet separately. If you are down and a shooter wins enough to transition before they 7 out, win as much as you can and reset the bankroll at the end of the roll.
Nice video. I haven't been able to catch coffee and craps. I need to try this short stack thing.
Thanks Jeff. It is a fun little exercise.
GREAT session, CONGRATS
Thanks. It doesn’t always happen that way though.
Awesome strategy. Gonna roll it out next casino 🏃♀️
Thanks and good luck. Fell free to comment back where and let me know how it went.
Interesting. What exactly triggers the switch to the light side? Is it a certain level of winnings, and if so, what amount? Also, would I be correct in assuming that if you switched to the light side and got wiped out by a PSO for example, you would start back at the beginning with the dark side strategy?
Yes, if you get wiped, just repeat process. I think that is one of the strengths of the strategy. The trigger to light side is at least one win on the 5 or 9 before a 7. That will give $81 for the next shooter to go $66 inside plus $15 on 4 or 10.
I played this through 5x on WinCraps Pro simulator .. got cleaned out 3 of the 5 .. as you say, the dice will tell the story .. was only able to get out of the dark twice in those 5 play throughs! I'll try with live dice on my set up this weekend .. not giving up on this yet, but the winds of fortune are not currently blowing my way on this one .. thanks for sharing it though!
You are welcome. I always prefer a live roll vs a random number generator.
@@OnPointCraps I’ll review your strategy again to make sure I’m doing it right, then play a few with live roll and see if there’s a difference. I’ll report Back after I play about 10 rolls through with live dice.
@@HollywoodPete5801 That's awesome! I look forward to the results.
@@OnPointCraps
As indicated in a prior comment I ran this system through 10 times on a “live” roll board and here are the results:
Given a $150 bankroll with a 20% gain ($30 profit) defined as a “win”, the system went 8 wins to 2 losses (an 80% chance of a “win”).
Had I cashed out after each “win”, the average take home would have been $48 (an average gain of 32%). It took an average of 6.3 shooters to obtain a “win”.
Had I pocketed each $150 gained and then played out the remaining short stack, the average take home would have been $85 (an average gain of 57%). It took an average of 18 shooters to run the remaining short stack to not-playable.
The peak greater-than-20%-gain values ranged from $102 (68%) to $305 (303%) so - as we all know - timing and dice will dictate our day.
I would recommend anyone planning to use this in the casino to practice on a “live” roll board prior to using your hard earned cash. One very important difference with the “live” roll board verses the computer simulator was that it was MUCH easier to track the usable “winnings” in your rack by physically keeping them separated from the Don’t offerings; this dictated when to advance to stage 2, then 3 and also how much you could actually play when starting with stage 3.
Overall, this system looks VERY legitimate for a somewhat small bankroll on a $15 table. I plan to use this in the casino within the next few weeks and I’ll report back.
Good luck to all!
@@HollywoodPete5801 thanks. That is an outstanding summary.
Great video,, I will try this..
Question,, I'm having a hard time finding the small buy, lay, on and off buttons. What are they called if I was ordering them?
They are called buy/lay and on/off buttons. I found them at casino4you.com
Thanks Mike. I have rolled this out 3 times w/ profits each time. I did not even make it to the end of the initial $150. It will definitely go into the tool belt for live play.
I like it. I don’t know why it seems to work. I am in the process of trying to break it to see where all the holes are.
The only thing I’m not 💯 on is when do you switch to the light side? Ty
Great question. It is more of an art than a science. If the winnings in your rack allow you to transition and play with money that didn’t start in your bankroll, go for it. Typically it means you have hit at least two numbers during the ”hybrid” portion of the strategy.
Hey Mike, is there a reason that the 5/9 are placed first, rather than the more likely and lower house edge 6/8?
Only because it is a $15 bet. Trying to keep the $150 divisible by even numbers. $18 on the six and eight would throw it off.
Very nice!! Like it
Thanks Justin. Stay tuned for a rollout at a higher level.
Nice job, Mike!
Thank you very much. If you haven’t already, try out some short stack strategies. They are fun to play around with.
@@OnPointCraps yeah, Lumpy and I will do this challenge for sure.
@@squarepair2171 Awsome. Look forward to seeing it.
Tried twice lost full bankroll. Got to light side once in 2 attempts at casino and 7 out.
@@georgek9285 Ouch. Sorry to hear that. That’s the issue with gambling. There is. I sure fire way to win.
When do you stop playing the Don’t pass?
Ensure you set aside $15 per shooter. That is the base bet for each shooter. When you “winnings” portion of your rack supports $66 inside, then you transition off the don’t. I hope that makes sense.
I like it!!
Thanks Roger. I like it too. The real challenge is running it at the casino!
Great strategy!! I know you said $15 per shooter but at 7:50 the shooter rolled a 7 on the come out. The shooter would continue to roll and you placed another $15 for the next come out. Now, are you supposed to place another $15 on the same shooter, or was that a mistake? Still a GREAT strategy!!
Good question. I would place another $15 for that shooter. I don’t let them burn me more than twice though. If it was a second come out 7/11 I would then wait for the next shooter.
Rather than choosing 5 & 9, I would choose 6 & 8 because there are more ways to roll those numbers.
True. I went with the five and nine, so I could place $15 bets instead of $18 bets on the six and eight.
Comb your hair Mike! Cant wait to see this one
I said I look a hot mess. However, the show must go on.
I know...lol...just gettin a few jabs in
@@bluenoteone All in good fun. Maybe I will make it a regular thing. “Bathroom Gambling… showers and craps!”
How would I play this strategy on a $5 table?
The strategy would play the exact same way. Just use $5 bets instead of $15. With $150 you will be able to play a lot longer. In theory you could play this with a $50 bankroll.
Where in the hell is a $5 table at? Here in Tampa at the Hard Rock it's mostly $25 minimums and if you get there before 3 PM weekdays you might be lucky enough to squeeze your way onto the one $15 table while it lasts.
We have them at the Gold Dust West in Elko, Nevada. It changes to a $10 table on the weekends.
Any reason why you didn’t place 6 & 8 versus 5 & 9?
Solely to keep it in multiples of $15
@@OnPointCraps You can play the 6 & 8 for $15. It pays $17.
@@ErnieMayberry True, but I have had casinos tell me wrong bet and I don't feel like arguing. Easier to just go with the $18 bet on 6/8 and use this strategy on 5/9
@@OnPointCraps That's strange. Every casino I played in, they are fine with it and are used to seeing it on a $15 table. Every once in while a new dealer might ask me if I want to make it proper, but no pressure at all.
@@ErnieMayberry could be I was just dealing with new dealers. I will try it out next time I go to the casino. Thanks for the input.
Whenever there’s a 7 on the come out ,why not cover pass and don’t pass to neutralize the comeout roll and then play the dont odds?Sinve 7 already just showed up then there’s a good chance that it will show up again before the point……Ogherwise you’ll just be standing there for who knows how long waiting for the shooter to 7 out before you can bet against the next shooter….
Many casinos around me don’t allow that bet. I don’t show it for that reason.
Try it with $300 $30 bets. That way you can play the 6/8 for $35 win or if you want 5/9 pays $42. Same process just bigger.
The process should scale. I did it at this level because I was challenged to do it with a “short stack” bankroll. I will do a video at the $300 level.
I'd rather start on the 4/10 for the better payout. Recoup losses quicker and better profits
That variation can work. Less likely to hit the 4/10 though.
@@OnPointCraps agreed there and if we are playing low bank roll you would want best odds to hit the #, rather than payout odds
@@djsimoneit7003 That’s true.
You would of made a fortune with field bets
That is why it is called gambling! 😜
You made a comment what about taking a shower I think you look pretty good you might whiten your teeth a bit
Thanks....I think?
great topic ............low br grrrrrind,,,,,,,,,,,,,,true craps ..........not the bs 5k BR ......la la land that the wannabes do............lets get real......i am ddp1
Thanks! I really appreciate this comment. That is the goal of my channel. Realistic bankroll with strategies for newer players. I am glad you liked it.
Was that English? 🤔
no ...still learnin inglish .u a wize guy @@detroitdiezel7856
Intelligible enough to respond to.
Don’t like it. The way the dice was thrown the dice was not realistic
How so? I was just rolling them randomly off the back wall.
@@OnPointCraps how u were throwing the dice is not how people the dice in a real casino setting
@@blacksector4034 I have seen people chuck them down there. Random is random. I believe dice influence is a thing so I can see if that is what you are taking about. However, most shooters, even if they are setting dice don’t have real control and the dice are random.
@@blacksector4034Huh?
It's all random. He can do a 360 spin. Do a back flip. Flip you off for questioning his roll and then throw them back handed. All while eyes were closed