In the Netherlands I have an Outlander 2014 with 175,000 kilometers. I did this method exactly as told and waited 5 hours before plugging the car again. After the error message disappeared (car off and car on) drove again. As a result, the range has increased significantly. Before the reset the range was about 20-22 real kilometers and after the reset 33-35 real kilometers (outside temperature about 8-10 degrees Celsius). On-board computer indicates more, but that is only an indication. I've been riding for a few weeks now after the reset and I'm very happy with the result!
It worked!! Amazing 😉 2015 gx4h Disconnected 12v negative at 10pm Plugged car in and reconnected 12v for 5 seconds at 5:30 am. Car fully charged, plugged out charger and reconnected 12v negative. Fully charged 38km range now says 53km!! Thank you thank you thank you 🙏
Did this today for my 2014 Outlander, worked like a charm! Electric range usually shows 37-42 km when fully charged, now it shows 60 km! Don't have the bluetooth connector for the watchdog, so I don't know the actual figures, but I really don't need them to see the big difference in range. Got the EV caution as expected, but it cleared itself for the next start. Thanks for a solid tip, guys!
Method works for me in the past and did this every 4 month. But now it’s not working anymore I did probably 10 battery reset. Now my range is only 30 km EV. But my car is from 2013 with 250.000 km 😊and still Happy with it. Average consumption is 2.8L/100km that’s healthy motor needs to run anyway weekly
I bought mine, about month ago. Battery is 42,5% and can do about 24km with very careful drive. 2013/12 and 202.000km. Should try this method for better range or dangerous because last owner never did :S
@@jamesyujing no did not work. I tried again at work over a 12 hour shift. Left the battery disconnected for 6 hours and charged the rest. The guess-o-meter showed 31 miles then went down to 24 within a minute of driving. The battery still showed 32.7ah so looks like it works on some cars and not on the others. I', not sitting with my BMU in the house open up. I checked the capacitor voltage and there is no charge. So gonna plug it back in shortly and see if that does anything. I think some BMU have non-volatile memory and some volatile memory. There is also a COM port on the BMU so might be able to connect via UART serial and do some digging in via a CLI.
It worked for my MY13 (82.000 km, 30.2 Ah SOH, with electric tailgate) after the second attempt. In the second attempt I left the boot shut all time and entered the car from the side door. I'm now back at 38 Ah (did only wait for 7.5 hrs after charging started...). Thank you :)
Would you happen to know what SOH value the Dog was displaying during the charge? Do you have wifi+app? Thanks. For me it didn't work and I went through the side door too.
When I had the triple procedure done the technician who did the reset thought the disconnection of the 12v battery was a really important part of the triple procedure and suggested I just disconnect and reconnect the battery if I had problems in the future and see what happened.
One interesting observation during my failed Lindqvist attempt was that at the end of the charge the MMCS cost calculator didn't show the latest charge. The same thing happened to me a couple of times after I picked the car up from annual service - car was topped up, but there was no cost entry for it. Maybe the dealers disconnect the battery or a certain fuse when charging.
In general HV packs are completely disconnected when the vehicle is off. The 12v batt keeps the ECUs alive. Most ECU will have a keep alive memory powered by capacitor. If you disconnect the battery to change it, the cap will keep the memory alive for you so it doesn't forget fuel trims and stuff like that. But you can drain the caps by completing the circuit between + and - cables for a few minutes. We used this technique to fix a car that had stopped doing fuel cut on lift off because it had learned that the O2 sensors were not reliable.
Wow, I tested the Lindström method on my 2016 45000km fully specced car 3 days ago, the results is pretty amazing. It’s like a new car agin! I don’t have the ability to run any DOG software but I see a improvement from 35km EV to 42-52km! This is strange 🤔
LM worked for me after numerous attempts. I disconnected the 12v battery for 10-12hrs and charged for nearly 8hrs. I gaine 40ah but this has since reset to 38ah after a short drive. EV range has changed from 20ml to 37ml. I am yet to try out the actual EV range when I go out later today. Dont give up if you have not succeeded yet , LM works!!!
Worked for me! MY14. unplugged 12v. plugged wall charger in, connected 12v until hearing it kick in and then 12v off and left to charge. Gone from 17 miles range to 28!
I will install a dashcam to my PHEV soon. The installation manual advices to disconnect the 12V "-" battery terminal before running the cables through the side pillars where the curtain airbags are placed. I'm afraid I'll be forced to disconnect the aux battery for safety reasons... Dammit! 😜
@@ejezu5569 Of course main thanks to your dad for solving the problem. Andy still deserves credit for originally exposing and taking the problem to everyone with his u tube channel which is how I stumbled on it in the first place.
Hi Andy , happy days. Good to see your smile. Finally a solution. We taxi drivers or second hand car dealers do this trick all the time before we take the car to test or you sell your car. You disconnect the battery for a while, so all those check engine lights error coeds disappear. Especially German cars in Europe , diesel cars had issues with DPF Diesel Particulate Filter. I'm glad it solve your problem.
Why mitsubishi should be furious? They don't give a 💩.. It can make angry people who was about to earn money on us by preparing another mistery PHEV boxes or offer commercial service of range recovery 🤔 they can be disappointed...
@@jazdan223 because there is no problem with the BMU - everything is working as designed. Battery degradation is per spec. If people reset their BMU's and range increases then it's obvious they are lying.
I wonder if there are longer term experiences. I personally expect that over time, the BMU will slowly get back to the original values that were valid before the method was applied. All batteries do deteriorate over time depending on various parameters and it is abnormal if the original 38 Ah is restored with a simple software fix. So, are there people who can report that the high capacity value stays as it is?
The second method, that led to 40Ah SOH, may have initiated cell smoothing immediately after the reset. That might be the way to put the REAL capacity into the BMU registers.
I've had the car disconnected from the battery for over 2 hours. Just doing the charge now with the battery disconnected again. It's saying 4 hours to charge but the car is fully functioning with battery disconnected so the charging must also power the car with 12 volts. So I'm thinking maybe you can just connect the battery again after being fully disconnected for over 2 hours. Just a thought.
Currently in the process on a 2014 model. After start up, 2 different chargers showed the charging light but our solar inverter showed no power being sent to the charger and battery level on dash didn’t move. After reading comments about the tail gate, we fake locked the latch and the charger came to life. Anyone who’s having trouble completing should make sure the tail gate is closed or fake locked. Will keep you posted.
Seen some clips about this that 1 minute long and so but there it says nothing about empty batteri and wait 6hr and so on?! Just do the disconnect with cabel in?! Can this work without the 6hr disconnect thing?
Yes!! it works, mine intstyle+2014 (110.000km) goes from 34.2AH to 40.0AH i have only disconnect the battery for 45Min then leave the car charge for 7 hours
@@unpluggedEVit only reset the trip meter and settings as well as estimated range i disconnected for 3 hours but after full charge my amp hours are not changed still at 86% soh will try longer next weekend also any one trying this dont be dumb and shut the boot like i did no battery means no electric boot release before charging and once charging finishes i ended having to fold down the seats and reach into the boot
IT worked! I unplugged the bat for 5 1/2 hours. Then pluggend in the charger, connected the bat for 3sec (until klicked) waited for full charge, connected the bat en left the charger in over the night. I started my phev en shows 58 km! Drove 9 km to work, stil shows 48 km.. 👍👌😁 (2013 (2014 model))
Tinus, will doing the Lindqvist method will give a dash error reading that i need to reset at the dealer? I currently have a US spec 2018. Thank you in advance!
I own a 2014 PHEV (75000 km), which was down to 32 Ah SoH. It is fully equipped with electric trailgate, wi-fi, adaptice cruise control. I performed the Lindqvist procedure successfully 3 days ago, but had to enter the car through the side door and to climb to the back to reconnect the 12V battery. The dog initially displayed 40 Ah SoH, but the car reported an EV system error after a few seconds. After second start, the dog displayed 38 Ah SoH. Everything works fine and as expected since then. I performed a successful 50km EV range test yesterday. I carefully monitored the lowest cell voltage until the ICE kicked in, but it never fell below 3,6V, which is fine. Now I'm able to charge up to 10 kWh as reported by my AC wallbox. I rarely exceeded 8 kWh in the past. I did a 150km hybrid drive as well without any surprises. In the meantime I detected two SoH drops by 0,1 Ah, which is expected as well. I wonder how fast this will continue and when the next Lindqvist procedure will be required.
As useal great Video, my only consern is, because the connector is linked en there is no 12v online in the car, does the Bms knows when to stop charging? OR does this stop when the Evse detects that the voltage is full?
While charging the DC-DC converter will provide 12volts to the whole system(I confirmed that) even though the 12v bat is disconnected; the charging process will stop automatically and in that moment your car will be dead, so you need to open the door with the key and jump to the back side and open the tailgate from inside( there is a latch in the middle bottom), then you re connect 12v bat and everything is back to normal.
If you watch the Dog at step 5 while charging, every time you connect to it.... a pop up appears telling you the charging differential...mine started at -11.1Ah and at 59 percent went through 0... it is currently at 89% and now it shows a differential of +6.3Ah
Update... currently the battery is now 100%.. the differential in the Dog is +8.6Ah but its still drawing 5A from the charger..so am waiting for the Amps to drop off... Update +9.4Ah and 3A
And how long hold this situation with full ev range? I try 3 or 4 bmu resets from your other videos, but after 1 or 2 drives, it fall back to 35km range at full battery...
Hi Andy, this is really incredible! The PEHV is always good for a surprise! Thanks to Mr. Lindqvist for this amazing turn. I was hoping that so many Scandinavian Outlander drivers would find a way. I'm not surprised that it's another weakness in the system! So your videos won't be boring and is slowly becoming a real story. Andy, you should write a book about it someday and have it filmed by Hollywood. 😂
Unfortunately the this method did not work for me. Nor the D-easy .....😣 Frustration is starting to creep on me, the battery it's @76% and I can't seem to get it fixed. Any suggestion/ advice is much appreciated.
Used this technique on my Aussie spec 2014 PHEV aspire (WiFi and electric tailgate equipped). Car now reading 47 km from full instead of the mid- high 30's I was getting before. The technique is a bit harder as the tailgate doesn't work and requires a little crawling through the boot but all good. Only problem I've noticed is the auto up/down feature on the driver's electric window has stopped, (still works just have to hold switch). Surely it must just be a coincidence. Thanks for sharing the tip. Joel.
You can fix the switch, when the window is up, hold the switch up for 5 seconds, it'll teach it the window height. This happened me and still the reset didn't.
I have the same car but struggling. Getting 52/53km on the guessometer, but that's just a hoax after the battery disconnect. Are you sure that you were actually successful (as verified by Dog, distance driven, MMCS cost meter, or Evse meter)?
@@tuberculous4691 hi mate. I cannot say for sure as I do not have the dog and have not been monitoring the battery health apart from relying on assumed km determined by the car. I live in a remote outback town so drive short distances only (regularly go months without fuel) so I am not driving long distances enough to confirm. That said the car always predicts below 40km per charge yet after performing last night immediately reset at 47 km. I've done my normal commute today and certainly have higher battery level than normal, I've not bothered to plug in tonight when I normally would. It is still early days I agree and only time will really tell if this has made significant difference.
Great work Andy and Mr. President. Wonder if we can discharge the bmu capacitor by earthing the terminal rather than waiting for 2-6 hours. Not sure if it will cause any damage.
I performed the procedure with 12v battery disconnected for four hours full charge +1 hour. Didn't work. Had a power failure for few seconds during charging and had to reconnect 12v battery again to resume charging. Will try again
I have a 2014 mid range jdm and it failed 2nd attempt. Disconnected 12v for 8.5 hrs and plugged the charging cable and connected 12v till it made a clicking sound. Then left charging for 7 hrs. Will wait for bit longer until we get a solution for a similar car.
MY2017 - Tried thisprocedure and after full charge, GOM was showing 35 mile range. Also all vehicle settings reverted to defaults. Sadly a check with the DOG showed no change in the SOH, with a drive confirming no more than 24 EV miles available. Will try the procedure again and report back.
Hey! yesterday i disconnected te 24v bat (2h) and connected the chargecable (connected the 24v bat for 3 sec until relais klicked) for 7h, . Connected te 24v bat, afther 7h the car was not yet fully charged so i thought something was wrong. Tailgate was open, 2013 model. procedure had no result. I will try again soon. then disconnect the 24v bat longer and wait for full charge with tailgate closed.
Did anyone experience an issue after the lingvist method. I did it last weekend on my phev (2014) but after it needed to switch to the ice it had no power.
Used LM to MY13 180k km Instyle+ Navi, Keyless. El. tail gate and doors closed and I used rear door for accesing to the 12V battery. 2 h wait and 6 h charge. First run L-method ev-range went from 30 km to 50 km! Watchdog shows SoH 38 Ah/100 %. A wall charger amp. meter shows over 8,5 kWh charged atm and still not fully charged. Before the LM SoH was < 70 % and topped up at 6 kWh. So more electricity is definitely going in and the actual ev-range improved.
Haha. I can’t believe I was actually right when I joked with you the other day that the BMU reset might be as simple as disconnection of the12V battery.
Goodmorning, last night unplugged the 12 v battery, this morning connected for a few seconds, and connected the main battery, loading for about 3 hours (than a power drop, defect power grid.) reconnected the 12 battery.Result fantastic. From 22 km to 49 km. Only about 90 %. 16:00 main battery empty, now loading time from 04:15 to 5:15 hrs. Suddenly 1hour extra?.
Tried twice on UK 2015 GX4h model. 2 hour discharge and 6 hour discharge. Neither worked - still 33Ah after 6 hour charge. Dog still shows battery birthday as 2015 so I suppose the volatile memory is not being wiped. Does anyone know how to force discharge the memory as suggested by Miroslav Vosyka below?
Interesting. It appears as though the main parameters such as full capacity (eg 38Ah) are stored in non volatile memory, whereas the current measured capacity is instead held in volatile memory. By interrupting the 12V supply following your suggested steps you are probably: 1) Clearing the volatile memory of current capacity data. There may be an internal backup reservoir, hence waiting for a few hours with the 12V supply that powers the BMU disconnected. At this stage the system would presumably have the default 38AH as the new capacity, having been 'reset'. 2) Connecting the 12V supply to the BMU for a few seconds, just long enough for the BMU to 'handshake' with the charging supply to allow power to be switched on. 3) Removing 12V supply from the BMU preventing it from monitoring incoming charge. 4) By completing the charge and only then restoring the 12V supply to the BMU the system must use the default reset maximum of 38AH (or 40, for example; likely whatever is programmed into non volatile memory). Although the suggestion has been made that you can 'flatten' your 12V battery by leaving a light on, this is maybe not possible. Because fundamental systems like the BMU use the 12V supply it is probable that the main traction battery charges the 12V battery if it becomes too low - as with Toyota and some other hybrid systems. So I think that there are a couple of big questions here that should be considered regarding safety and potential damage to the vehicle: 1) Mitsubishi clearly designed the vehicle intending it to be safe for the 12V battery to be changed, disconnected, go flat etc. These are normal situations. However, it is not a normal situation to remove the BMU supply while enabling the same time enabling charger supply. The BMU circuitry will be subject to an abnormal situation where power is present on the traction battery monitoring connections and not the 12V monitoring system connections, in a way not reasonably predictable by the system designer. In this situation it is possible that circuitry could be damaged. It is possible that the system designer did not cater for the absence of 12V supply during charging, as the EVSE should not be able to enable charge supply. Maybe the system is designed to be protected against damage in this condition, or maybe it is okay by accident, or maybe it will prove to be a process that can cause damage. There is certainly a risk of circuitry or battery damage in my opinion, not knowing the design detail. 2) The BMU is the battery monitoring unit. It presumably controls the handshake allowing connection of charge power and monitors information on battery state. It may also control charger supply disconnect and perform functions like providing information to vary the end of charge voltage depending on conditions, which might include variable like battery temperature etc. By removing the 12V supply, you are using the BMU to allow the charger input to switch on and then are disabling it from functioning properly. If the BMU performs any safety related functions, like requesting charger disconnect if an error is reported by a cell management node or if battery temperature becomes excessive, then this Lindquist process may disable all of these safety features while allowing charger supply to continue. It is even possible that the active temperature management of the battery is controlled by BMU data that ceases to be available during removal of the 12V supply AND that overheating in the battery might not be reported to the charger system, preventing safe disconnection. I very much would like this to be a cure-all fix for the battery issues. I think that even the manufacturer may breathe a sigh of relief if this turns out to be a good workaround, as it could be an inexpensive way to keep customers and dealers happy, resulting in the sales of more vehicles without recalls and enormous expense. However, worst case this Linquist reset method could prove to be an unsafe procedure that results in vehicle damage including battery fires. At the moment I do not know enough about the detail of the system design to correctly judge either way. For anyone else like me who does not know exactly how the system battery and charge monitoring circuitry is designed, I recommend caution until we know more...
One note: In my experience with the 12v bat disconnected and at the same time the car is charging, there is still 14.1 volts in the system or car, I confirmed it, so maybe there is no risk of fire or over heat because there is still 12volst around and BMU I guess still aware of everything.
Is it actually required to have the 12v bat disconnected while charger is going? Maybe the 2hr of disconnect before the charge is enough to do the job? One would also assume the BMU would have to be powered during charge to actually allow charging. I would like to confirm that the BMU is actually powered during the charge process while the 12v bat is disconnected.
@@BakedPineapple1 I think that Andy confirmed that the 12V battery is only charged by the main traction battery when either the vehicle is switched on or the charger is enabled. This would seem to be in line with what other EV hybrid manufacturers are doing. It would not negate the concerns I have for the following reason: People have found that by removing the 12V supply the system reacts differently if you manually enable charging - as we see from the reset figures - compared to when the 12V supply is connected as normal. This by definition shows that the 12V supply is being used normally as the system is acting differently by resetting data when we create the abnormal situation of removing it. So we are performing the action of manually enabling mains charge while disabling the 12V supplied circuitry and it seems that this is not possible when using the vehicle normally as the designers intended. We are manually putting the vehicle into an abnormal state, while enabling the battery charger. I do not know if this is could cause damage or is even unsafe. I even think that the manufacturers would be quite right to be very worried about performing these actions without checking the system design and carrying out testing - which they may or may not be willing to do. If a single PHEV battery caught fire because of a charger / monitor issue then it would be potentially just as bad for the Manufacturer as for the owner, even if the owner had carried out a DIY procedure.
I have tried it twice and unfortunately it did not work for me. When I disconnect 12v battery and later reconnects after the process, I loss recorded trip , the auto drivers side window does not work. Watch dog reading still showing 70.8% 26.8ah. Hoping the Lindqvist method will be fine tuned to work for me.
Not this time I'm afraid! Still 20 mile range. The only thing I did different was to leave the bonnet open and I suspect it just did not drain completely. I'll try again soon.....Frustrated ......CP.
Does anyone know if doing the Lindqvist method will give a dash error reading that i need to reset at the dealer? I currently have a US spec 2018. Thank you in advance!
After the LM, I was able to achive 28miles on the first run. I charged up partial and was able to get 18miles but after that the car was not pulling when the engine kicked and it actually stalled. I stopped, disconnect the 12v battery for few seconds and tried again with no luck. I had to drive with the charged button on for about 3 miles, stopped disconnect 12v battery for few seconds and reconnected it. EV range is 3 miles and everything seems ok now. I will have a longer drive tomorrow and will update should there be any issues. Soh is down to 37.8ah from 38ah on day 1 of LM.
People need to note here GoM KM/Miles is not the same as a BMU reset. The GoM will always be reset. You really need the DOG to get the battery state of Health or drive it and get the physical distance confirmed
Who knew? I already knew how to do it! I discovered that trick to reset the warning lights in the dashboard in an old car I had. After a while, they were reappearing though! :-P I don't think it is a bug. Probably, all cars reset to default settings when there is no Voltage applied to the electronic boards. It would be important to verify that those restored values actually translate in to a longer EV range, at least till it will start loosing capacity again.
I will try it, with this tweak: deplete until just over 30soc, then deplete further to 20soc using remote heater and begin procedure. Also Andy, nice try attempting to deflect attention from the suitcase, but this is not the end as you say. We want answers. Don't be like Mitsubishi!
So first try didn't work on my 2015 model with wifi and electric tailgate. I waited 2.5hrs before charging and 1.5hr after charge finished. Unplugged 12V again and will see if it gets amnesia overnight. What SOH values are people seeing in the Dog during the charge? For me it was the "old" SOH and that's how it stayed :(
I was a bit worried initially as I started the charge at 6A and immediately switched to 15A but the computer was showing 9:00 hr remaining for another few minutes. That would have been around 25kWh :)
I've tried this method three times and it has never worked. 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander phev, although my electric range increased on the dash from 32 to 48kms, it doesn't manage to get that
Followed instructions precisely last evening but didn't work for my 2016 model (12v was unplugged for 6 hours ). No difference after charging overnight from the previous 34.2 Ah shown on the app for the last few months. Immediately after the procedure the car display showed a predicted range of 33 miles which is up on the usual 26 miles but after the first drive today I still only achieved an actual 27 miles. I suspect the prediction increase is because the driving history had been erased and the algorithm that calculates range defaults to an optimistic MMC value.
Nice video! Good to know we have this option. My dealer was kind enough to do a BMU Reset (BMU LEARNING VALUE MANUAL WRITTEN ) for me, took all of 3 minutes. I am now at 40.0 Ah!
@@markwalkington416 I was at 36.4 and dropping 0.1 Ah every week or so. I just got the car in June, 2019, but it had been sitting unsold for 14 months since it was manufactured (March, 2018). When I got it "new" in June, 2019, it was 37.1 Ah and in a month 36.4 Ah, so you can imagine I was upset I bought a brand new car that was supposed to be 38 Ah. but I only started at 37.1.
Andy, good update, we like this sort 👍 Thx to Mr Lindqvist for sharing & taking the pressure off the "suitcase" yeah some of us dont forget lol you could say we are on your case haha. But I suppose you wont need the suitcase now or be testing the new info yet as your battery hasnt long been done, but when the time comes we hope to see it 😉 Stay Charged m8 😎
Linsquist. IT guy? I can't believe it Andy. You are ignoring your IT training. Why didn't you think of just unplugging it for a while haha. This is hilarious.
Hi everybody. You don't need wast time. This method can be reduced following this steps: 0 drain your traction battery a little bit. You don't need to begin with a empty battery 1 unplug 12v battery (-) pole 2 check with voltimeter between (+) & (-). The measure will be 0.5 - 1v 3 conect 1k resistor between (+) and unpleged (-) cable in order to softly discharge of bmu filter capacitors until your voltimeter shows 0v. 4 conect the evse 5 conect (-) with the evse near you until just ear the "click" of the relay in the evse charger 6 unplug (-) again. At this moment the reset is done. You can stop charging with the stop button of the evse. 8)connect (-) cable to 12v battery. check soh with odb. If you have your battery fully charged the range in the car's dashboard will be 50km. Working in 2013 outlander phev with initial soh of 72%
Are steps 2 and 3 talking about BMU pins, or the battery. If battery how come this wouldn't read 12.6V? Also can someone who succeeded raising the SOH please post a screenshot or the values from the Phevwatchdog's Battery condition menu detail of the top item - specifically Battery age in days and Total current charged.
It's possible to reach to the + battery terminal with a standard DMM probe and touch it in the space under the red cap and above the battery body plastic collar. (I ended up removing the floor anyway - 3 nuts with screw holes at the front and 2 screws in the first rear compartment.) If David means voltage between the battery + and the disconnected negative cable, I am getting 10mV initially and 5mV after 15 minutes. This is on a stubborn car that so far managed to defend 7 Lindqvist attempts.
From what I know, the auxiliary (12V) battery is charging when either of the following condition is met: -PHEV system is "ON" ("READY" indicator is lit), the aux. batt is charging from the drive battery; -the drive battery is charging from external plug. This means that after charging (of drive battery) has started, disconnecting the aux. battery should have no effect since it's charging circuit is suplying the voltage to all connected loads. Hence, disconnecting the aux. battery after 3-5 seconds at step 5 makes no sense in my mind. But who knows, PHEV works in mysterious way :) so the procedure should definetely be carefully tested on multiple cars / situations before it can be taken as granted.
Hi. Have looked on a lot of Your viedeos and they are very interesting. I got specially interested in this Lindquist Method. But how do I measure the BMU ? I do not have a Android Mobile - I have an Iphone and do not find the PHEV wathcdog app on the appstore. I have a 2016 model PHEV and after battery charge it shows 36 km - does that indicate that my batteri is in good shape?
Hello, thank you for your feedback. If you're an Apple user, you can use the EVBatMon from here: evpositive.com/evbatmon-for-phev-ios.html It's a bit hard to tell if the battery is still OK just looking at the GOM. How many real km do you achieve with careful driving?
If you disconnect the -ve that's all you need to remove the battery from the circuit, we pick -ve because it's safer than disconnecting the +be (potential to short the battery with a spanner from the +ve terminal to the chassis of the car).
In a 12V DC system you only need to disconnect one terminal, does not matter if it is the + or - to disable the system. In the PHEV it is easier to disconnect the minus terminal.
unplugged EV hi, it’s a model 14. And first attempt was when it was half full of the battery. Only tried for 2 hours unplugged with no luck. Yesterday I had it unplugged the 12v battery for 7 hours and then I charged it full with only taping the negative pole so it clicked, it was empty this time. And I connected the 12v battery after maybe 12hours. And the dog shows 40ah 105.3% Mileage is 91859km But the only thing is that I got a message with: ev system required on the dash :/. Will try the car later today to check what range it will have and if the message will clear :). Thanks for a good channel btw
I am on my 6th attempt which happens to have same conditions as Eric posted above. I'll be starting charge in the morning after 10hrs of disconnect. Will report back. Also interestingly today I discovered that when I manually reduce the charge current from 14A to 5A from around 90soc, this allows more energy to be pushed in as the 328.2V (from which the BMU takes over the current control) is reached approx 6soc points later than if left at 14A. Easing the charge pressure obviously allows the chemical reactions to settle/catch up. Yet another example of where manual control is better than the "functions as designed" BMU.
I try now to my 2014 140k km (89k miles), was 33Ah before, i disconnect 12v for 5h, plug charger (i will try first my "fast" charger 3.6kW) and connect 12v batt for roughly 5 sec to heard charging sound (knock knock) and disconnect 12v batt again. After an hour i just try check WATCHDOG and i supprised app working but still shown 33Ah :( Now i check again and i have 75% SOC and still 33Ah on watchdog :( Hope after fully charge (2,5h-3h) and connection 12v batt i will see 38-40Ah.....cant wait till finish charging.....fingers crossed.... If not i will try again with orginal schuco PHEV slow charger (i thik push about 2kW). Can anyone tell that you try use wachdog while doing this procedure please??? ...:::UPDATE:::... Unfotrunetely not works so far, still 33Ah :( i try again 2nd option....i unplug this time both ground and + from 12v batt for over night and will start charge in the morning by orginal charger...
I disconected 12v batt for 12h (+ & -) plug charger and 12v batt for 3 sec. Is chrging now .... but i try watchdog and again i see 33Ah just on begining of charging. My question is when BMU is reseting and get new capacity?? after fully charge or after 12v batt disconecterd for while??
Ok, PHEV is fully charged and MMC shown now 51km (31miles, before 21miles(35km)) range but watchdog still show 32km and 33Ah. I will test soon on road how that numbers works. I think my 1st reset yesterday going same because i have UK version and MMC after reset show units in miles and i not recognize that last night (too tired), dash back to miles not km like before reset (change settings) and i see 31 miles range last night.
My charger stop charging at 98%. I check on road and after 300meters i loose 3km of range of 51km(MMC), WD show me 31km range. I did 31km trip and arrive with 2km range on WD and 5km on MMC. So that mean this procedure not work for me. WDog still show 33Ah. ...:::UPDATE:::... After second charging sesion capacity dropped to 32.5Ah (-0.5Ah down) :( cl.ly/8f3a38 cl.ly/94bcb4 cl.ly/693f29 This method willbe useful for traders when try sell the car, after reset they can show to new buyer a fake range on GOM so be careful and use minimum an watchdog app to check battery health. I will wait for update about procedure which will be work to any PHEV in 100%. SCREENSHOTS AFTER RESET AND "FULLY" CHARGE: cl.ly/fdd4cb cl.ly/66a681 MY 1SE TRIP AFTER RESET: cl.ly/793585 cl.ly/f5a973 cl.ly/d2d172 cl.ly/a772fc
No, I didn't. I'm still over 38Ah, so... no point ;) I also have battery warranty until 2027, so every time it goes below 80% I have to contact Mitsubishi.
unplugged EV hmmm.. But this goes against your advice. I think you suggested to just try it out, risk of losing warranty is minimal, would make for an episode. But if you want to be on the safe side this time, I respect it. Maybe we can get some other AU owners to try it out and get the on camera for an episode?
Thank you for breaking my car. 4 weeks after this reset i had issues with RBS and starting petrol engine when battery was completely discharged. Only DbCam helped.
@@unpluggedEV Maybe you should also write that this procedure just reset BMU, so even if some cells are nearly dead you use them even harder? And your battery is broken even more. WHAT A GREAT VIDEO
There, I linked you couple of studies and information about Lithium Ion battery degeneration. =) It seems that car manufacturers have designed them so that they will last a very long time. They have been extra cautious with the batteries.
Hi, I tried this method with my Mitsubishi PHEV Outlander 2015. Drain the EV battery Disconnect 12 batteries for 8 hours connected 12v battery to plug-in car and then disconnected Charge full car Connect 12v Battery THE BMU did not reset, and neither were the miles increased :(
If You have an electric tailgate - close it before the procedure. I did it twice with an open tailgate, and there was no result. Today, I did the procedure from back seats, and it worked. I didn't wait hours for discharging capacitors.
@@sendtobarry In the interests of science I might give it 12 hours 12 V disconnect tonight - no charging ... (no time for a 4th full Lindqvist tonight - great name - can't pronounce it but ....research - Wiki says "Lindqvist is a surname of Swedish origin. It means 'linden twig' (lind means 'linden tree' (Tilia cordata), and kvist means 'twig. In Sweden, about 23,000 people have this surname in some variation.[1] Lindqvist is by far the most common spelling (69%), but frequent variations include Lindkvist (20%) and Lindquist (11%). Rare variations include Lindhqvist (0.09%, Lindqwist (0.07%) and Lindkuist (0.01)."
Worked for mime as well 209000 KM and moe at 38 Again, the range is 50 km as iT used to vd. Waited for 5 Bouts after the First step, that worked, begrote two Bouts didn’t do anything.
Tim Scott, interesting points. However if a 12v battery goes flat (or disconnected) for several hours or days and the BMU data resets, then this is what the car is designed to do. Any car can suffer a flat battery!
Certainly a battery can go flat. The abnormal situation we create with this described procedure is to present 12V to allow enabling the mains charger and then to remove 12V while the traction battery charge takes place. Is this okay? I don't know. Can it happen naturally with a flat battery? No, I don't think so.
You will not ruin your battery... The BMS/BMU will detect the capacity of the weakest cell by monitoring the voltage while charging or discharging.. If you have a degraded pack, the BMS will learn it during the first charge/discharge cycle. I have a 80 cell lev50 pack in a EV, and due to imbalance, the car shut down due to a cell got below the minimum voltage. If your BMS miscalculate the capacity, your engine will start, I have to get a tow truck. Battery shutdown happens for me at 6-8 %SOC, your engine try to keep the same pack at about 30% SOC. So take it easy, you won't ruin your battery. We who use the same battery in EVs runs the cells a lot harder than you do..
@@unpluggedEV driving in 1400 km over mountain passes in 48 hours, only fast charger and winter with temperatur ranges between -20C and -10C. The car was not able to keep the battery cold even when fast charging in -18C. The up to 60C temperature difference created huge temperature differences between in the battery. Driving that long in those temps without balancing the battery created the imbalance in the battery. I have never seen the car use so long time balancing the battery as after this trip. The reason I know what happens, is that I was logging the CAN bus, and looked at the logs after the trip.
Hey Boys! :D I am happy. If you want success you need to short the battery contactors! But be Very Very Very careful! You can only shortcut it when it is disconnected from 12V battery and charger is disconnected! Otherwise you can set a fire! Check this pictures :D I bought this car with 60.5% SoH, OK I am not able tu put pictures here, so my SoH is on 105.3%, SoC 96.8% and capacity is 38.7Ah so I think I am going for 40Ah tonight :D
Danke für schnelle Antwort, werde es in 3 Wochen ausprobieren. Schreibe danach welche Ergebnisse ich bekommen habe . Hoffe geht nichts dabei kaputt )))
I have 34Ah according to my dog, I think before I do try this my car is due for a service and will ask them to reset the BMU. Never know Mitsubishi might be helpful
Buy Mr. Lindqvist a beer:
paypal.me/pools/c/8gA7htcpdN
@@BakedPineapple1 me too
I did yesterday :)
In the Netherlands I have an Outlander 2014 with 175,000 kilometers. I did this method exactly as told and waited 5 hours before plugging the car again. After the error message disappeared (car off and car on) drove again. As a result, the range has increased significantly. Before the reset the range was about 20-22 real kilometers and after the reset 33-35 real kilometers (outside temperature about 8-10 degrees Celsius). On-board computer indicates more, but that is only an indication. I've been riding for a few weeks now after the reset and I'm very happy with the result!
Hoe zijn je ervaringen nu? Is je bereik alweer terug gezakt?
@@ruudv6877 Hoi Ruud, niet dat ik het verneem. Buitentemperatuur is ook gestegen, maar ik ben heel tevreden! Aanrader!
It worked!! Amazing 😉
2015 gx4h
Disconnected 12v negative at 10pm
Plugged car in and reconnected 12v for 5 seconds at 5:30 am.
Car fully charged, plugged out charger and reconnected 12v negative.
Fully charged 38km range now says 53km!! Thank you thank you thank you 🙏
Thank you Mr Lindqvist!
That's only estimated range, not soh
blackwp1 still gone up by 15km. I’m happy about that
Did this today for my 2014 Outlander, worked like a charm! Electric range usually shows 37-42 km when fully charged, now it shows 60 km! Don't have the bluetooth connector for the watchdog, so I don't know the actual figures, but I really don't need them to see the big difference in range. Got the EV caution as expected, but it cleared itself for the next start. Thanks for a solid tip, guys!
How is it doing now?? Have you had to do this again?? Please let me know
Worked fine on my Outlander MY19, happy days!
Hi Tom tried it twice on my 2019 model and it didn’t work. Is your car a UK model?
Of course. Why didn't I think of that. The registers in the BMU are volatile memory and the capacitor discharge will drop their values... brilliant!
Method works for me in the past and did this every 4 month.
But now it’s not working anymore I did probably 10 battery reset.
Now my range is only 30 km EV.
But my car is from 2013 with 250.000 km 😊and still Happy with it.
Average consumption is
2.8L/100km that’s healthy motor needs to run anyway weekly
I bought mine, about month ago. Battery is 42,5% and can do about 24km with very careful drive. 2013/12 and 202.000km. Should try this method for better range or dangerous because last owner never did :S
Congratulations 👏👏👏 ...for that things the world go ahead. Thanks Mr. Lindquist.
I will be trying this in the morning. Can't wait. Need to go from 32 back to 38. Or maybe 40.
any updating info?
@@jamesyujing no did not work. I tried again at work over a 12 hour shift. Left the battery disconnected for 6 hours and charged the rest. The guess-o-meter showed 31 miles then went down to 24 within a minute of driving. The battery still showed 32.7ah so looks like it works on some cars and not on the others. I', not sitting with my BMU in the house open up. I checked the capacitor voltage and there is no charge. So gonna plug it back in shortly and see if that does anything. I think some BMU have non-volatile memory and some volatile memory. There is also a COM port on the BMU so might be able to connect via UART serial and do some digging in via a CLI.
@@IrnBruN2Cones updates ?
It worked for my MY13 (82.000 km, 30.2 Ah SOH, with electric tailgate) after the second attempt. In the second attempt I left the boot shut all time and entered the car from the side door. I'm now back at 38 Ah (did only wait for 7.5 hrs after charging started...). Thank you :)
Would you happen to know what SOH value the Dog was displaying during the charge? Do you have wifi+app? Thanks. For me it didn't work and I went through the side door too.
Thomas, has your car got the Wifi?
When I had the triple procedure done the technician who did the reset thought the disconnection of the 12v battery was a really important part of the triple procedure and suggested I just disconnect and reconnect the battery if I had problems in the future and see what happened.
Wow, what a great advice, hahahaha.
One interesting observation during my failed Lindqvist attempt was that at the end of the charge the MMCS cost calculator didn't show the latest charge. The same thing happened to me a couple of times after I picked the car up from annual service - car was topped up, but there was no cost entry for it. Maybe the dealers disconnect the battery or a certain fuse when charging.
In general HV packs are completely disconnected when the vehicle is off. The 12v batt keeps the ECUs alive. Most ECU will have a keep alive memory powered by capacitor. If you disconnect the battery to change it, the cap will keep the memory alive for you so it doesn't forget fuel trims and stuff like that. But you can drain the caps by completing the circuit between + and - cables for a few minutes. We used this technique to fix a car that had stopped doing fuel cut on lift off because it had learned that the O2 sensors were not reliable.
This is great news, we need some more examples of people trying it to confirm on all years.
hello i have done its this evening and its works i did go from 27,7 AH 72,9% to 38AH again 100% the dashboard shows 59 km
my ferry happy
Would you mind posting your steps was it the same as in the video? I've done this like 3 times and can't get it to work. How long did you wait?
disconnect 12v wait 3 to 6 seconds wait 45min, leave it charging for 7 ours then reconect 12v take the charge out
@@WillDeasy yes , I did 2 times but can't get to work too.
Wow, I tested the Lindström method on my 2016 45000km fully specced car 3 days ago, the results is pretty amazing. It’s like a new car agin!
I don’t have the ability to run any DOG software but I see a improvement from 35km EV to 42-52km! This is strange 🤔
Thanks for the feedback. Great result, it must have worked...
LM worked for me after numerous attempts.
I disconnected the 12v battery for 10-12hrs and charged for nearly 8hrs. I gaine 40ah but this has since reset to 38ah after a short drive. EV range has changed from 20ml to 37ml. I am yet to try out the actual EV range when I go out later today.
Dont give up if you have not succeeded yet , LM works!!!
Seems to be inline with other report. Some vehicles stay at 40Ah, some don't.
Worked for me! MY14. unplugged 12v. plugged wall charger in, connected 12v until hearing it kick in and then 12v off and left to charge. Gone from 17 miles range to 28!
I will install a dashcam to my PHEV soon. The installation manual advices to disconnect the 12V "-" battery terminal before running the cables through the side pillars where the curtain airbags are placed. I'm afraid I'll be forced to disconnect the aux battery for safety reasons... Dammit! 😜
💗
vferrandobe , any excuse... 😉
Decided to do the Lindqvist method reset. will post a video if what I did over a 2 day period
Hi Andy, what terrific news. A great thank you to you and everyone else who helped in solving this problem. Perseverance triumphed the day. 👍
IT WAS MY DAD!!! DONT THANK ANDY
@@ejezu5569 Of course main thanks to your dad for solving the problem. Andy still deserves credit for originally exposing and taking the problem to everyone with his u tube channel which is how I stumbled on it in the first place.
Hi Andy , happy days. Good to see your smile. Finally a solution.
We taxi drivers or second hand car dealers do this trick all the time before we take the car to test or you sell your car. You disconnect the battery for a while, so all those check engine lights error coeds disappear. Especially German cars in Europe , diesel cars had issues with DPF Diesel Particulate Filter.
I'm glad it solve your problem.
It's not a real fix unfortunately and may have some consequences for the battery down the track. It's early days for this...
Finally! Great work. The best thing is that Mitsubishi Japan are going to be furious.
Why mitsubishi should be furious? They don't give a 💩.. It can make angry people who was about to earn money on us by preparing another mistery PHEV boxes or offer commercial service of range recovery 🤔 they can be disappointed...
@@jazdan223 because there is no problem with the BMU - everything is working as designed. Battery degradation is per spec. If people reset their BMU's and range increases then it's obvious they are lying.
@@emmmmmceeeee Truth
I wonder if there are longer term experiences. I personally expect that over time, the BMU will slowly get back to the original values that were valid before the method was applied. All batteries do deteriorate over time depending on various parameters and it is abnormal if the original 38 Ah is restored with a simple software fix.
So, are there people who can report that the high capacity value stays as it is?
The second method, that led to 40Ah SOH, may have initiated cell smoothing immediately after the reset. That might be the way to put the REAL capacity into the BMU registers.
Yes, we need the proper process for this ti follow...
I've had the car disconnected from the battery for over 2 hours. Just doing the charge now with the battery disconnected again. It's saying 4 hours to charge but the car is fully functioning with battery disconnected so the charging must also power the car with 12 volts. So I'm thinking maybe you can just connect the battery again after being fully disconnected for over 2 hours. Just a thought.
Thanks to both you and Mr Lindqvist. Without you, we would all be crying at the dealership.
Currently in the process on a 2014 model. After start up, 2 different chargers showed the charging light but our solar inverter showed no power being sent to the charger and battery level on dash didn’t move. After reading comments about the tail gate, we fake locked the latch and the charger came to life. Anyone who’s having trouble completing should make sure the tail gate is closed or fake locked. Will keep you posted.
Good tip, thank you. You have to leave the car as it is, right, don't touch it , don't open doors...
Seen some clips about this that 1 minute long and so but there it says nothing about empty batteri and wait 6hr and so on?! Just do the disconnect with cabel in?! Can this work without the 6hr disconnect thing?
Yes!! it works, mine intstyle+2014 (110.000km) goes from 34.2AH to 40.0AH i have only disconnect the battery for 45Min then leave the car charge for 7 hours
Does your car have the wifi+app?
@@tuberculous4691 Yes it has
@Tuber Culous there goes the theory...
Good news that the wifi/app trim theory is dismissed.
unplugged mine 2017 just now we will see the result tonight
Let us know...
@@unpluggedEVit only reset the trip meter and settings as well as estimated range i disconnected for 3 hours but after full charge my amp hours are not changed still at 86% soh will try longer next weekend also any one trying this dont be dumb and shut the boot like i did no battery means no electric boot release before charging and once charging finishes i ended having to fold down the seats and reach into the boot
@@BIGCHEESE8592 Been there..done that!
IT worked! I unplugged the bat for 5 1/2 hours. Then pluggend in the charger, connected the bat for 3sec (until klicked) waited for full charge, connected the bat en left the charger in over the night. I started my phev en shows 58 km! Drove 9 km to work, stil shows 48 km.. 👍👌😁 (2013 (2014 model))
Excellent outcome, thanks for the feedback.
Tinus, will doing the Lindqvist method will give a dash error reading that i need to reset at the dealer? I currently have a US spec 2018. Thank you in advance!
I own a 2014 PHEV (75000 km), which was down to 32 Ah SoH. It is fully equipped with electric trailgate, wi-fi, adaptice cruise control. I performed the Lindqvist procedure successfully 3 days ago, but had to enter the car through the side door and to climb to the back to reconnect the 12V battery.
The dog initially displayed 40 Ah SoH, but the car reported an EV system error after a few seconds. After second start, the dog displayed 38 Ah SoH. Everything works fine and as expected since then. I performed a successful 50km EV range test yesterday. I carefully monitored the lowest cell voltage until the ICE kicked in, but it never fell below 3,6V, which is fine. Now I'm able to charge up to 10 kWh as reported by my AC wallbox. I rarely exceeded 8 kWh in the past. I did a 150km hybrid drive as well without any surprises.
In the meantime I detected two SoH drops by 0,1 Ah, which is expected as well. I wonder how fast this will continue and when the next Lindqvist procedure will be required.
@hkek56 I waited 2,5 hours between disconnecting the 12V battery and initiating the charging step.
Thanks for reporting back in detail. So adaptive cruise control is not an issue either.
As useal great Video, my only consern is, because the connector is linked en there is no 12v online in the car, does the Bms knows when to stop charging? OR does this stop when the Evse detects that the voltage is full?
While charging the DC-DC converter will provide 12volts to the whole system(I confirmed that) even though the 12v bat is disconnected; the charging process will stop automatically and in that moment your car will be dead, so you need to open the door with the key and jump to the back side and open the tailgate from inside( there is a latch in the middle bottom), then you re connect 12v bat and everything is back to normal.
If you watch the Dog at step 5 while charging, every time you connect to it.... a pop up appears telling you the charging differential...mine started at -11.1Ah and at 59 percent went through 0... it is currently at 89% and now it shows a differential of +6.3Ah
Update... currently the battery is now 100%.. the differential in the Dog is +8.6Ah but its still drawing 5A from the charger..so am waiting for the Amps to drop off... Update +9.4Ah and 3A
Was your procedure successful? If yes do you have a record of what SOH did the Dog show during charging?
And how long hold this situation with full ev range?
I try 3 or 4 bmu resets from your other videos, but after 1 or 2 drives, it fall back to 35km range at full battery...
Hi Andy, this is really incredible! The PEHV is always good for a surprise! Thanks to Mr. Lindqvist for this amazing turn.
I was hoping that so many Scandinavian Outlander drivers would find a way. I'm not surprised that it's another weakness in the system!
So your videos won't be boring and is slowly becoming a real story. Andy, you should write a book about it someday and have it filmed by Hollywood. 😂
Thank Andreas. It will be 3 or more books until the time we get there right? 🤭
Unfortunately the this method did not work for me. Nor the D-easy .....😣
Frustration is starting to creep on me, the battery it's @76% and I can't seem to get it fixed.
Any suggestion/ advice is much appreciated.
Used this technique on my Aussie spec 2014 PHEV aspire (WiFi and electric tailgate equipped). Car now reading 47 km from full instead of the mid- high 30's I was getting before. The technique is a bit harder as the tailgate doesn't work and requires a little crawling through the boot but all good. Only problem I've noticed is the auto up/down feature on the driver's electric window has stopped, (still works just have to hold switch). Surely it must just be a coincidence.
Thanks for sharing the tip. Joel.
Thanks Joel, amazing outcome!
You can fix the switch, when the window is up, hold the switch up for 5 seconds, it'll teach it the window height. This happened me and still the reset didn't.
@@WillDeasy worked. Thanks very much!
I have the same car but struggling. Getting 52/53km on the guessometer, but that's just a hoax after the battery disconnect. Are you sure that you were actually successful (as verified by Dog, distance driven, MMCS cost meter, or Evse meter)?
@@tuberculous4691 hi mate. I cannot say for sure as I do not have the dog and have not been monitoring the battery health apart from relying on assumed km determined by the car. I live in a remote outback town so drive short distances only (regularly go months without fuel) so I am not driving long distances enough to confirm. That said the car always predicts below 40km per charge yet after performing last night immediately reset at 47 km. I've done my normal commute today and certainly have higher battery level than normal, I've not bothered to plug in tonight when I normally would. It is still early days I agree and only time will really tell if this has made significant difference.
On point 5 we connect the 12v battery then we disconnect after 3-5 sec?
My Eclipse Cross PHEV 2022 with 12000 driven have 28 km with full battery. Can I tried this method?
Great work Andy and Mr. President. Wonder if we can discharge the bmu capacitor by earthing the terminal rather than waiting for 2-6 hours. Not sure if it will cause any damage.
Unlikely. It's almost certainly protected from reverse-discharge by a diode.
I performed the procedure with 12v battery disconnected for four hours full charge +1 hour. Didn't work. Had a power failure for few seconds during charging and had to reconnect 12v battery again to resume charging. Will try again
I have a 2014 mid range jdm and it failed 2nd attempt. Disconnected 12v for 8.5 hrs and plugged the charging cable and connected 12v till it made a clicking sound. Then left charging for 7 hrs. Will wait for bit longer until we get a solution for a similar car.
After 3 unsuccessful L methods, was able to succeed in G method.
MY2017 - Tried thisprocedure and after full charge, GOM was showing 35 mile range. Also all vehicle settings reverted to defaults. Sadly a check with the DOG showed no change in the SOH, with a drive confirming no more than 24 EV miles available. Will try the procedure again and report back.
How did it go??
Hey! yesterday i disconnected te 24v bat (2h) and connected the chargecable (connected the 24v bat for 3 sec until relais klicked) for 7h, . Connected te 24v bat, afther 7h the car was not yet fully charged so i thought something was wrong. Tailgate was open, 2013 model. procedure had no result. I will try again soon. then disconnect the 24v bat longer and wait for full charge with tailgate closed.
So, are we saying the solution is to turn it off and on again (albeit with a gap between the two).
It couldn't be that simple surely ...
Did anyone experience an issue after the lingvist method. I did it last weekend on my phev (2014) but after it needed to switch to the ice it had no power.
Used LM to MY13 180k km Instyle+ Navi, Keyless. El. tail gate and doors closed and I used rear door for accesing to the 12V battery. 2 h wait and 6 h charge. First run L-method ev-range went from 30 km to 50 km! Watchdog shows SoH 38 Ah/100 %. A wall charger amp. meter shows over 8,5 kWh charged atm and still not fully charged. Before the LM SoH was < 70 % and topped up at 6 kWh. So more electricity is definitely going in and the actual ev-range improved.
Thanks for sharing.
I wonder if you could set up a backup power source for the MMU so that when doing the reset you would not have to reprogram the MMU?
Haha. I can’t believe I was actually right when I joked with you the other day that the BMU reset might be as simple as disconnection of the12V battery.
You just haven't pushed enough for this idea ;)
Goodmorning, last night unplugged the 12 v battery, this morning connected for a few seconds, and connected the main battery, loading for about 3 hours (than a power drop, defect power grid.) reconnected the 12 battery.Result fantastic. From 22 km to 49 km. Only about 90 %.
16:00 main battery empty, now loading time from 04:15 to 5:15 hrs. Suddenly 1hour extra?.
I have installed 58Ah to my 2015 PHEV. But still i am getting 30Ah. Can we flash CMU for 58Ah. Thanks
Tried twice on UK 2015 GX4h model. 2 hour discharge and 6 hour discharge. Neither worked - still 33Ah after 6 hour charge. Dog still shows battery birthday as 2015 so I suppose the volatile memory is not being wiped. Does anyone know how to force discharge the memory as suggested by Miroslav Vosyka below?
Interesting. It appears as though the main parameters such as full capacity (eg 38Ah) are stored in non volatile memory, whereas the current measured capacity is instead held in volatile memory. By interrupting the 12V supply following your suggested steps you are probably:
1) Clearing the volatile memory of current capacity data. There may be an internal backup reservoir, hence waiting for a few hours with the 12V supply that powers the BMU disconnected. At this stage the system would presumably have the default 38AH as the new capacity, having been 'reset'.
2) Connecting the 12V supply to the BMU for a few seconds, just long enough for the BMU to 'handshake' with the charging supply to allow power to be switched on.
3) Removing 12V supply from the BMU preventing it from monitoring incoming charge.
4) By completing the charge and only then restoring the 12V supply to the BMU the system must use the default reset maximum of 38AH (or 40, for example; likely whatever is programmed into non volatile memory).
Although the suggestion has been made that you can 'flatten' your 12V battery by leaving a light on, this is maybe not possible. Because fundamental systems like the BMU use the 12V supply it is probable that the main traction battery charges the 12V battery if it becomes too low - as with Toyota and some other hybrid systems.
So I think that there are a couple of big questions here that should be considered regarding safety and potential damage to the vehicle:
1) Mitsubishi clearly designed the vehicle intending it to be safe for the 12V battery to be changed, disconnected, go flat etc. These are normal situations.
However, it is not a normal situation to remove the BMU supply while enabling the same time enabling charger supply. The BMU circuitry will be subject to an abnormal situation where power is present on the traction battery monitoring connections and not the 12V monitoring system connections, in a way not reasonably predictable by the system designer. In this situation it is possible that circuitry could be damaged. It is possible that the system designer did not cater for the absence of 12V supply during charging, as the EVSE should not be able to enable charge supply. Maybe the system is designed to be protected against damage in this condition, or maybe it is okay by accident, or maybe it will prove to be a process that can cause damage. There is certainly a risk of circuitry or battery damage in my opinion, not knowing the design detail.
2) The BMU is the battery monitoring unit. It presumably controls the handshake allowing connection of charge power and monitors information on battery state. It may also control charger supply disconnect and perform functions like providing information to vary the end of charge voltage depending on conditions, which might include variable like battery temperature etc.
By removing the 12V supply, you are using the BMU to allow the charger input to switch on and then are disabling it from functioning properly. If the BMU performs any safety related functions, like requesting charger disconnect if an error is reported by a cell management node or if battery temperature becomes excessive, then this Lindquist process may disable all of these safety features while allowing charger supply to continue. It is even possible that the active temperature management of the battery is controlled by BMU data that ceases to be available during removal of the 12V supply AND that overheating in the battery might not be reported to the charger system, preventing safe disconnection.
I very much would like this to be a cure-all fix for the battery issues. I think that even the manufacturer may breathe a sigh of relief if this turns out to be a good workaround, as it could be an inexpensive way to keep customers and dealers happy, resulting in the sales of more vehicles without recalls and enormous expense.
However, worst case this Linquist reset method could prove to be an unsafe procedure that results in vehicle damage including battery fires.
At the moment I do not know enough about the detail of the system design to correctly judge either way. For anyone else like me who does not know exactly how the system battery and charge monitoring circuitry is designed, I recommend caution until we know more...
The 12V battery only gets charge when the charger is plugged in or the car is in READY mode.
One note: In my experience with the 12v bat disconnected and at the same time the car is charging, there is still 14.1 volts in the system or car, I confirmed it, so maybe there is no risk of fire or over heat because there is still 12volst around and BMU I guess still aware of everything.
Is it actually required to have the 12v bat disconnected while charger is going? Maybe the 2hr of disconnect before the charge is enough to do the job? One would also assume the BMU would have to be powered during charge to actually allow charging. I would like to confirm that the BMU is actually powered during the charge process while the 12v bat is disconnected.
@@joemaher958 All is a mystery here, I know while charging there is still 12volts in the car got from the DC-DC converter
@@BakedPineapple1 I think that Andy confirmed that the 12V battery is only charged by the main traction battery when either the vehicle is switched on or the charger is enabled. This would seem to be in line with what other EV hybrid manufacturers are doing.
It would not negate the concerns I have for the following reason:
People have found that by removing the 12V supply the system reacts differently if you manually enable charging - as we see from the reset figures - compared to when the 12V supply is connected as normal. This by definition shows that the 12V supply is being used normally as the system is acting differently by resetting data when we create the abnormal situation of removing it. So we are performing the action of manually enabling mains charge while disabling the 12V supplied circuitry and it seems that this is not possible when using the vehicle normally as the designers intended. We are manually putting the vehicle into an abnormal state, while enabling the battery charger. I do not know if this is could cause damage or is even unsafe. I even think that the manufacturers would be quite right to be very worried about performing these actions without checking the system design and carrying out testing - which they may or may not be willing to do.
If a single PHEV battery caught fire because of a charger / monitor issue then it would be potentially just as bad for the Manufacturer as for the owner, even if the owner had carried out a DIY procedure.
I have tried it twice and unfortunately it did not work for me. When I disconnect 12v battery and later reconnects after the process, I loss recorded trip , the auto drivers side window does not work. Watch dog reading still showing 70.8% 26.8ah. Hoping the Lindqvist method will be fine tuned to work for me.
Hold window button up for 5 seconds to fix
Just re-charging mine now after a 6hr disconnection......cant wait to see what tomorrow morning brings.....Chris in Derby UK (2013 hs)
Not this time I'm afraid! Still 20 mile range. The only thing I did different was to leave the bonnet open and I suspect it just did not drain completely. I'll try again soon.....Frustrated ......CP.
Just wait for EP256... ;)
Does anyone know if doing the Lindqvist method will give a dash error reading that i need to reset at the dealer? I currently have a US spec 2018. Thank you in advance!
After the LM, I was able to achive 28miles on the first run. I charged up partial and was able to get 18miles but after that the car was not pulling when the engine kicked and it actually stalled. I stopped, disconnect the 12v battery for few seconds and tried again with no luck. I had to drive with the charged button on for about 3 miles, stopped disconnect 12v battery for few seconds and reconnected it. EV range is 3 miles and everything seems ok now. I will have a longer drive tomorrow and will update should there be any issues.
Soh is down to 37.8ah from 38ah on day 1 of LM.
Same what Alex reported. It's in one of the next videos from here...
I’ve had the same issue what was the fix for this?
People need to note here GoM KM/Miles is not the same as a BMU reset. The GoM will always be reset. You really need the DOG to get the battery state of Health or drive it and get the physical distance confirmed
Who knew? I already knew how to do it! I discovered that trick to reset the warning lights in the dashboard in an old car I had. After a while, they were reappearing though! :-P
I don't think it is a bug. Probably, all cars reset to default settings when there is no Voltage applied to the electronic boards.
It would be important to verify that those restored values actually translate in to a longer EV range, at least till it will start loosing capacity again.
As every reset, it's not a permanent fix. SoH will go down again but EV range is fully restored for a year or so...
@@unpluggedEV ... so, waiting for you certification of the procedure!
I have already prepared the popcorn!
Hahaha, I'm not doing it. My battery is still above 38Ah and under warranty...
@@unpluggedEV Crossing my fingers to see a huge battery drop soon then! :-P
Will this "Lindqvist Method" remove or reset all of the cars timer, app, bluetooth and radio settings?
Nobody has reported any of this. It only affects the BMU...
I did it, but no effect at timer, app, Bluetooth. Radio presettings stay but canal texts disappeared. But those are easy to put back.
No
I will try it, with this tweak: deplete until just over 30soc, then deplete further to 20soc using remote heater and begin procedure.
Also Andy, nice try attempting to deflect attention from the suitcase, but this is not the end as you say. We want answers. Don't be like Mitsubishi!
I thought people do forget about that...
BTW, it seems you don'w have to deplete the battery that much, just at the around 30% mark seems to work...
@@unpluggedEV that is good news because i do not have the app on my 2019 and lowest i could get with the heater on was 25,4 i think
So first try didn't work on my 2015 model with wifi and electric tailgate. I waited 2.5hrs before charging and 1.5hr after charge finished. Unplugged 12V again and will see if it gets amnesia overnight.
What SOH values are people seeing in the Dog during the charge? For me it was the "old" SOH and that's how it stayed :(
I was a bit worried initially as I started the charge at 6A and immediately switched to 15A but the computer was showing 9:00 hr remaining for another few minutes. That would have been around 25kWh :)
@@tuberculous4691 yes. mine is old SOH too.
I've tried this method three times and it has never worked. 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander phev, although my electric range increased on the dash from 32 to 48kms, it doesn't manage to get that
Followed instructions precisely last evening but didn't work for my 2016 model (12v was unplugged for 6 hours ). No difference after charging overnight from the previous 34.2 Ah shown on the app for the last few months. Immediately after the procedure the car display showed a predicted range of 33 miles which is up on the usual 26 miles but after the first drive today I still only achieved an actual 27 miles. I suspect the prediction increase is because the driving history had been erased and the algorithm that calculates range defaults to an optimistic MMC value.
Thanks for the update, Dave. Hang in there, a lot of people are still testing and refining the procedure...
Nice video! Good to know we have this option. My dealer was kind enough to do a BMU Reset (BMU LEARNING VALUE MANUAL WRITTEN
) for me, took all of 3 minutes. I am now at 40.0 Ah!
40 without DBCam?
@@matradlinski8084 Correct. No DBCam.
@@Darrenhd2 How long ago was that Darren? What Ah were you before that?
Interesting, Darren, that is the first time this happened at a dealership... have you got more info?
@@markwalkington416 I was at 36.4 and dropping 0.1 Ah every week or so. I just got the car in June, 2019, but it had been sitting unsold for 14 months since it was manufactured (March, 2018). When I got it "new" in June, 2019, it was 37.1 Ah and in a month 36.4 Ah, so you can imagine I was upset I bought a brand new car that was supposed to be 38 Ah. but I only started at 37.1.
I was wondering if there is a way to drain any capacitors charge in the system after disconecting battery without waiting 2-6 hours.
Yeah, remove the BMU, find the SRAM cap and short it. But I wouldn't do that if I were you
Andy, good update, we like this sort 👍 Thx to Mr Lindqvist for sharing & taking the pressure off the "suitcase" yeah some of us dont forget lol you could say we are on your case haha.
But I suppose you wont need the suitcase now or be testing the new info yet as your battery hasnt long been done, but when the time comes we hope to see it 😉
Stay Charged m8 😎
Linsquist. IT guy? I can't believe it Andy. You are ignoring your IT training. Why didn't you think of just unplugging it for a while haha. This is hilarious.
Yes, a simple 'restart', right? 😂
Tried my MY16 4h (UK) twice over the weekend but no luck. 1st time disconnected for 6 hrs, second attempt 1 hr.
Hi everybody. You don't need wast time.
This method can be reduced following this steps:
0 drain your traction battery a little bit. You don't need to begin with a empty battery
1 unplug 12v battery (-) pole
2 check with voltimeter between (+) & (-). The measure will be 0.5 - 1v
3 conect 1k resistor between (+) and unpleged (-) cable in order to softly discharge of bmu filter capacitors until your voltimeter shows 0v.
4 conect the evse
5 conect (-) with the evse near you until just ear the "click" of the relay in the evse charger
6 unplug (-) again. At this moment the reset is done. You can stop charging with the stop button of the evse.
8)connect (-) cable to 12v battery. check soh with odb. If you have your battery fully charged the range in the car's dashboard will be 50km.
Working in 2013 outlander phev with initial soh of 72%
@@unpluggedEV Sorry Andy. I sent my incomplete comment before by mistake
Where are you picking up the 12v +ve pole. I can only easily access the -ve. Are you unscrewing the cover?
Are steps 2 and 3 talking about BMU pins, or the battery. If battery how come this wouldn't read 12.6V?
Also can someone who succeeded raising the SOH please post a screenshot or the values from the Phevwatchdog's Battery condition menu detail of the top item - specifically Battery age in days and Total current charged.
It's possible to reach to the + battery terminal with a standard DMM probe and touch it in the space under the red cap and above the battery body plastic collar. (I ended up removing the floor anyway - 3 nuts with screw holes at the front and 2 screws in the first rear compartment.)
If David means voltage between the battery + and the disconnected negative cable, I am getting 10mV initially and 5mV after 15 minutes. This is on a stubborn car that so far managed to defend 7 Lindqvist attempts.
@@ancientbriton4637 Yes, you can just take off the cover...
From what I know, the auxiliary (12V) battery is charging when either of the following condition is met:
-PHEV system is "ON" ("READY" indicator is lit), the aux. batt is charging from the drive battery;
-the drive battery is charging from external plug.
This means that after charging (of drive battery) has started, disconnecting the aux. battery should have no effect since it's charging circuit is suplying the voltage to all connected loads. Hence, disconnecting the aux. battery after 3-5 seconds at step 5 makes no sense in my mind.
But who knows, PHEV works in mysterious way :) so the procedure should definetely be carefully tested on multiple cars / situations before it can be taken as granted.
That is my thinking too. But it must have some sort of effect on the process. We will see...
Hi. Have looked on a lot of Your viedeos and they are very interesting. I got specially interested in this Lindquist Method. But how do I measure the BMU ? I do not have a Android Mobile - I have an Iphone and do not find the PHEV wathcdog app on the appstore. I have a 2016 model PHEV and after battery charge it shows 36 km - does that indicate that my batteri is in good shape?
Hello, thank you for your feedback. If you're an Apple user, you can use the EVBatMon from here:
evpositive.com/evbatmon-for-phev-ios.html
It's a bit hard to tell if the battery is still OK just looking at the GOM. How many real km do you achieve with careful driving?
Oen John Or buy a cheap android phone for 50 or 70 bucks like I did. Still a lot cheaper than the mut device.
disconnect 12 v battery : we only can disconnect " - " terminal or we need disconnect " + - " both terminal ? thanks
If you disconnect the -ve that's all you need to remove the battery from the circuit, we pick -ve because it's safer than disconnecting the +be (potential to short the battery with a spanner from the +ve terminal to the chassis of the car).
In a 12V DC system you only need to disconnect one terminal, does not matter if it is the + or - to disable the system. In the PHEV it is easier to disconnect the minus terminal.
I was trying disconnect 12V batery 1.5 hours in first step but doesn't work yesterday PHEV 2014. I will try 2 more hours disconnect battery.
Got mine up to 40ah after one fail. It was at 32,4ah. But after it was done it say ev system service required ;) fingers crossed
How did you get 40Ah? What MY and did you follow the exact method?
unplugged EV hi, it’s a model 14. And first attempt was when it was half full of the battery. Only tried for 2 hours unplugged with no luck. Yesterday I had it unplugged the 12v battery for 7 hours and then I charged it full with only taping the negative pole so it clicked, it was empty this time. And I connected the 12v battery after maybe 12hours. And the dog shows 40ah 105.3%
Mileage is 91859km
But the only thing is that I got a message with: ev system required on the dash :/. Will try the car later today to check what range it will have and if the message will clear :). Thanks for a good channel btw
I am on my 6th attempt which happens to have same conditions as Eric posted above. I'll be starting charge in the morning after 10hrs of disconnect. Will report back. Also interestingly today I discovered that when I manually reduce the charge current from 14A to 5A from around 90soc, this allows more energy to be pushed in as the 328.2V (from which the BMU takes over the current control) is reached approx 6soc points later than if left at 14A.
Easing the charge pressure obviously allows the chemical reactions to settle/catch up. Yet another example of where manual control is better than the "functions as designed" BMU.
I try now to my 2014 140k km (89k miles), was 33Ah before, i disconnect 12v for 5h, plug charger (i will try first my "fast" charger 3.6kW) and connect 12v batt for roughly 5 sec to heard charging sound (knock knock) and disconnect 12v batt again. After an hour i just try check WATCHDOG and i supprised app working but still shown 33Ah :( Now i check again and i have 75% SOC and still 33Ah on watchdog :( Hope after fully charge (2,5h-3h) and connection 12v batt i will see 38-40Ah.....cant wait till finish charging.....fingers crossed.... If not i will try again with orginal schuco PHEV slow charger (i thik push about 2kW). Can anyone tell that you try use wachdog while doing this procedure please??? ...:::UPDATE:::... Unfotrunetely not works so far, still 33Ah :( i try again 2nd option....i unplug this time both ground and + from 12v batt for over night and will start charge in the morning by orginal charger...
I disconected 12v batt for 12h (+ & -) plug charger and 12v batt for 3 sec. Is chrging now .... but i try watchdog and again i see 33Ah just on begining of charging. My question is when BMU is reseting and get new capacity?? after fully charge or after 12v batt disconecterd for while??
Ok, PHEV is fully charged and MMC shown now 51km (31miles, before 21miles(35km)) range but watchdog still show 32km and 33Ah. I will test soon on road how that numbers works.
I think my 1st reset yesterday going same because i have UK version and MMC after reset show units in miles and i not recognize that last night (too tired), dash back to miles not km like before reset (change settings) and i see 31 miles range last night.
My charger stop charging at 98%. I check on road and after 300meters i loose 3km of range of 51km(MMC), WD show me 31km range. I did 31km trip and arrive with 2km range on WD and 5km on MMC. So that mean this procedure not work for me. WDog still show 33Ah.
...:::UPDATE:::... After second charging sesion capacity dropped to 32.5Ah (-0.5Ah down) :(
cl.ly/8f3a38
cl.ly/94bcb4
cl.ly/693f29
This method willbe useful for traders when try sell the car, after reset they can show to new buyer a fake range on GOM so be careful and use minimum an watchdog app to check battery health. I will wait for update about procedure which will be work to any PHEV in 100%.
SCREENSHOTS AFTER RESET AND "FULLY" CHARGE:
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cl.ly/66a681
MY 1SE TRIP AFTER RESET:
cl.ly/793585
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Sehr interessant. Mein 2019 hat erst 500 km hinter sich - ich muss also noch ein bisschen warten für ein Home-Reset :-) Danke für die Info...
My 2019 has 1000km now and from 44,1 to 43,5, car is maybe 10 days old.
Did it work on your 2019?
@@TechTronic9000 have not had the chance, busy with work so needed the car. Hopefully next weekend i can try. I hope to see 46Ah on the dog :)
Did you try it Andy?
No, I didn't. I'm still over 38Ah, so... no point ;)
I also have battery warranty until 2027, so every time it goes below 80% I have to contact Mitsubishi.
unplugged EV hmmm.. But this goes against your advice. I think you suggested to just try it out, risk of losing warranty is minimal, would make for an episode. But if you want to be on the safe side this time, I respect it. Maybe we can get some other AU owners to try it out and get the on camera for an episode?
I'm also above 38Ah so there is no point of doing it at the moment...
Thank you for breaking my car. 4 weeks after this reset i had issues with RBS and starting petrol engine when battery was completely discharged. Only DbCam helped.
You should have read the description first!
@@unpluggedEV Maybe you should also write that this procedure just reset BMU, so even if some cells are nearly dead you use them even harder? And your battery is broken even more. WHAT A GREAT VIDEO
Could you explain what happened and why? Is the Lindqvist method dangerous for the car? Am trying to assess whether I should try it.
There, I linked you couple of studies and information about Lithium Ion battery degeneration. =) It seems that car manufacturers have designed them so that they will last a very long time. They have been extra cautious with the batteries.
Yes, that was the intention with the PHEV.
Tried it twice now on my 2014 Phev and still no luck :(
I have a 2014 model. Tried the Lindqvist Method, I left the car with 12v unplugged for 14 hours, but no luck.
same with phev aspire model. Can not get this working and I have tried several times, we'll get there :)
Hang in there with me mate! I have the same car, now on my 7th attempt and starting to run out of possible combinations haha.
Oh dear... my 11 Year old left that damn light on again 😉
😂😂😂
Never worked for me. I followed the process correctly. Lost 0.1ah in the process. Will try again tonight at work.
Same for me , some updates? Did you figure out how to do it?
Hi, I tried this method with my Mitsubishi PHEV Outlander 2015.
Drain the EV battery
Disconnect 12 batteries for 8 hours
connected 12v battery to plug-in car and then disconnected
Charge full car
Connect 12v Battery
THE BMU did not reset, and neither were the miles increased :(
If You have an electric tailgate - close it before the procedure. I did it twice with an open tailgate, and there was no result. Today, I did the procedure from back seats, and it worked. I didn't wait hours for discharging capacitors.
@@michad.4023 Ill try it again. Although I dont have electric tailgate its manual.
Also was wondering what else we will reset after battery disconected? Radio settings? Phone connections? WiFi config (hope not)... Any one has data?
When they did my triple procedure which included the battery disconnection then everything was as normal when I got the car back
Radio stations needs to program again and minor settings in the mmcs. Phone and Wifi settings no change
So, to do a reset (by accident)
Just unplug your 12v battery for x(time).
Reconnect for 38Ah.
Yes?
Uhm, no. You need also to wait...
@@unpluggedEV yes for "X" time.
@@sendtobarry In the interests of science I might give it 12 hours 12 V disconnect tonight - no charging ... (no time for a 4th full Lindqvist tonight - great name - can't pronounce it but ....research - Wiki says "Lindqvist is a surname of Swedish origin. It means 'linden twig' (lind means 'linden tree' (Tilia cordata), and kvist means 'twig.
In Sweden, about 23,000 people have this surname in some variation.[1] Lindqvist is by far the most common spelling (69%), but frequent variations include Lindkvist (20%) and Lindquist (11%). Rare variations include Lindhqvist (0.09%, Lindqwist (0.07%) and Lindkuist (0.01)."
sendtobarry you have to the procedure as listed on the video until it becomes clearer what parts could be skipped lol
Hahaha, great idea. "The Lindy-Method", he was after some bucks for his idea anyway ;)
Worked for mime as well 209000 KM and moe at 38 Again, the range is 50 km as iT used to vd. Waited for 5 Bouts after the First step, that worked, begrote two Bouts didn’t do anything.
Can you post some figures around the voltages just before the engine kicks in?
Sorry can mot upload the screenshot
Anybody know if it works on a Nissan LEAF
Tim Scott, interesting points.
However if a 12v battery goes flat (or disconnected) for several hours or days and the BMU data resets, then this is what the car is designed to do.
Any car can suffer a flat battery!
Certainly a battery can go flat. The abnormal situation we create with this described procedure is to present 12V to allow enabling the mains charger and then to remove 12V while the traction battery charge takes place. Is this okay? I don't know. Can it happen naturally with a flat battery? No, I don't think so.
Exactly this happend to someone here in AU. Flat battery for hours and the car would not turn on any more but the charge started after plugging in...
Any udates on that?? Anyone??
A video of how to find the battery would help some of us.
EP30 may help with this: ua-cam.com/video/66cpRkGfjC8/v-deo.html
its right next to where the cable is stored for anyone reading this post in 2023
Bloody fantastic, thanks so much for everyone's persistence
You will not ruin your battery...
The BMS/BMU will detect the capacity of the weakest cell by monitoring the voltage while charging or discharging..
If you have a degraded pack, the BMS will learn it during the first charge/discharge cycle.
I have a 80 cell lev50 pack in a EV, and due to imbalance, the car shut down due to a cell got below the minimum voltage.
If your BMS miscalculate the capacity, your engine will start, I have to get a tow truck.
Battery shutdown happens for me at 6-8 %SOC, your engine try to keep the same pack at about 30% SOC.
So take it easy, you won't ruin your battery. We who use the same battery in EVs runs the cells a lot harder than you do..
How can you have such an imbalanced pack? Is this in the i-MiEV?
The PHEV balances all cells every time it charges.
@@unpluggedEV driving in 1400 km over mountain passes in 48 hours, only fast charger and winter with temperatur ranges between -20C and -10C.
The car was not able to keep the battery cold even when fast charging in -18C. The up to 60C temperature difference created huge temperature differences between in the battery.
Driving that long in those temps without balancing the battery created the imbalance in the battery.
I have never seen the car use so long time balancing the battery as after this trip.
The reason I know what happens, is that I was logging the CAN bus, and looked at the logs after the trip.
That make sense, right! DC FC does not balance, that is correct. You should not do any procedures after such a trip, for sure...
Danke, Andi!
Hey Boys! :D I am happy. If you want success you need to short the battery contactors! But be Very Very Very careful! You can only shortcut it when it is disconnected from 12V battery and charger is disconnected! Otherwise you can set a fire! Check this pictures :D I bought this car with 60.5% SoH, OK I am not able tu put pictures here, so my SoH is on 105.3%, SoC 96.8% and capacity is 38.7Ah so I think I am going for 40Ah tonight :D
Great work, let us know what exactly you did so other can learn and do the same..
He didn't reply - hope he didn't electrocute himself!!
THANK YOU Andy!! 😊😊 How can I give you 100000000 👍 👍? 🤔 ☺
Hahahaha, thank Mr Lindqvist ;)
Worked in my 2014 but without waiting 6 houres.
Hallo, meiner hat nach 200000 km nur noch 26.2Ah übrig. Wieviel würde so ein reset bringen ?
Probiere es halt aus und schreibs hier rein. Den Mutigen gehört die Welt!
ich hatte Kapazität Optimierung direkt bei Mitsubishi machen lassen, die haben gerade so 1,2 Ah hingekriegt für 100 Euro))))
Das Auto gehört Dir! Du kannst machen damit was Du willst. Ich würde das sofort ausprobieren 👍
So ein Reset bringt die Kapazitaet zurueck auf 38Ah und die vollen 50km+ sind wieder hergestellt. Einige haben es schon geschafft.
Danke für schnelle Antwort, werde es in 3 Wochen ausprobieren. Schreibe danach welche Ergebnisse ich bekommen habe . Hoffe geht nichts dabei kaputt )))
Wow that is great news!!!
Don't forget the grain of salt...
Andy will you do this to your car
I won't. I've got a new battery still under warranty until 2027. I'll just contact MMAL again if it goes under 80% EV range :)
@@unpluggedEV why?
@@jutaipeter why what?
@@unpluggedEV warum willst du MMC aufsuchen?
I have 34Ah according to my dog, I think before I do try this my car is due for a service and will ask them to reset the BMU. Never know Mitsubishi might be helpful
Bonjour quelqu’un a essayé sur un modèle 2017 80000km France merci
Is this still an issue in 2023 ? What about new PHEVs?
That's awesome, I will try it this weekend