Fitted the range rover float switch to my 300tdi defender just a pointer for anyone fitting 1 of these, on the dash warning lights there is an unused transmission temperature warning light (looks like a cog with a thermometer in the middle) this will give you a nice stock finish inside the car would recommend this mod to everyone its so easy
It’s getting like Blue Peter on here just lately,I’ll order some sticky back plastic and get Jackie to save the tube out of the toilet rolls and the egg boxes for your next video .
Mike, on my 300Tdi I have fitted the same switch exactly as you showed with the exception that mine has a "self check" that the alarm is functioning, it has a relay in the circuit that earths through the oil pressure switch when the ignition is first turned on, this activates the alarm until oil pressure is established, I have a buzzer audible alarm plus a large orange light in dash centre between oil pressure and capillary type temperature gauge. Once the engine is running, if the alarm sounds, it means either oil pressure failure or loss of coolant. It has worked well for many years.
I just installed one of these on my Range Rover Classic. The "special" electronic cap on the overflow tank had failed. On the classic, the float needs to "drop" (flipped the other way around, like you had it in your first attempt apparently. When installed correctly, in the Classic, the switch needs to be closed when the coolant level is correct. The light on the dash comes on when the circuit is broken, coolant level drops) in order to work with the existing wiring in the Classic. It was still very straight forward. Drilled the hole in the expansion tank, popped in the float switch, put some connectors on the ends of the float switch, and plugged it right into where the overflow tank cap connectors went. Your videos are great and amazingly helpful!! Keep them coming.
Great little stitch in time Mike. By the time most people realise their engine is overheating, the head gasket has already been damaged. Good video. Enjoyed it.
On AliExpress you can get the floating sensor/switch for less than $1 and an LED with buzzer for same. That's a less than $2 solution. Wow. I've been looking for an affordable coolant level alarm and now I have it. Add another that is turned the other way round as you had done before and it will function for "too much coolant" or whatever use case fits.
Excellent tip about the float switch. If only I had one before the block, rear core plug failed. New head now. I installed a Muirhead coolant level module. Fitted two stainless steel bolts with large washers and neoprene rubber washers (probes), either side of that cross piece in the tank. The module sends an AC signal between the two probes. Light on dash and a small buzzer. The neat thing is it does a self test when the ignition is turned on, ie., light and buzzers. No wounder the tanks fail at the seam because they balloon up under pressure and the heat/cold cycles. Nice demo. Remarkable glue between the two halves of the tank.
Just last night reading about a chap I no cooling problems long way from home, Romainia took 7 weeks to deliver his 110 back to UK! That simple idea would of solved that ,brilliant.
The only problem is when the water level gets a little low the motion of the vehicle will cause a pulsing alarm as the float bounces up and down with the motion of the vehicle, you could incorporate a relay that that latches on when activated giving a permanent power supply to a warning neon, you would need a reset button to break the latch after topping the water up or wire it so turning the engine off kills the power breaking the latch; both would work. Other than that a good idea.
Hi there great video and very interesting I would like to say though that plastic tanks split regularly so even with the alarm you still will be stranded.. go with the aluminium tank and range rover cap that way you will be covering both angles.. great video and carry on making them 4x4 overland John Desert specialist
@@BritannicaRestorations it's like Japanese water torture. Me and my prostate need to have words. P.s, please don't stop making your videos. I'm a long distance lorry driver and sitting in my cab at night watching your videos is fantastic. It gives me the inspiration to get on with my 110 / disco project at home. Thanks for doing what you do. Top man.
My 90 turbo diesel had the sensor cap fitted, and a plain red indicator popped through the dash when it had a defender 200tdi dropped in as part of some sort of upgrade programme in the mid 1990s via LR. Great idea to use off the shelf bits, I'll be fitting similar to my other vehicles I'm sure, thanks!
On the 200TDi defender main loom (bulkhead) there is a slate/red wire on the main connector that hooks up to the chassis loom ( it has no connection on it) . This would normally be used for the gear box temp switch, as it's not used an pretty much all defenders it would be a good warning light to hook it up to on the dash
This is one of those simple ideas that everybody slaps their foreheads when told and wonder 'why i didn't think of that!' Like you i would have installed the switch N/C with the float falling with the coolant level... The annoying thing is i've used these for the same reason on other machines at work in the past, and in EVERY case had to use relay as i installed them all the 'wrong' way!
Added to my Amazon wish list. On my P38 I added an aluminum adapter to the lower radiator hose which has a port for a temperature sensor. I bought an Autometer temperature gauge and sensor. Wired it all up and mounted the gauge on the dash to the left of the steering wheel where it is easily visible. Now I know my normal running temperature, 180 degrees F. Going up by 10 degrees doesn't even register on the dash gauge.
That's a good idea my 1994 Peugeot 405 TD has a level switch built into the radiator which has come in very use full for cracked plastic water housing's on the engine!
I know I'm late to the party, but I'd like to suggest an improvement to your circuit. Reversing the polarity to the switch would be safer, if there's a short circuit the warning would activate rather than blow the fuse (which may not be discovered), rendering the system useless. Keep up the good work!
Believe me or not, but that's exactly what I did a year ago, just after my cylinder head broke because of the loss of coolant. Funny that with the same type of switch, mounted just a little bit lower in the tank. So look's familiar :) But the only problem is that the buzzer I've attached scares me sometimes. It does't activate while crossing any bumps, but it does while driving around a tight curve left, because all coolant has enough time to move to the right. I've got used to this sound, especially that it confirms that the system still works. But I have the Idea to attach inside the tank some flexible plastic wall to slow down the movement of my coolant. But I'm just too lazy to do it :)
Great video and great and simple solution for a problem that can become a big mess. Not long ago a silicon end cap broke on my Disco TD5 and I detected the fail from the inside of the car because of the coolant smell. Anyway, the circuit was almost empty and I really don't know how did I manage not to blow the gasket!! Thank you Mike!!
Bit harder for a td5 given the funny bubble shape of it's expansion tank to drill a hole. If you're keen one of the e30/36 expansion tanks is the same other than having an extra hole with a level sensor in it. Honestly it's a shame LR didn't fit one from the factory.
In the UK these level switches are used on IMI / Baxi Potterton Powermax boilers. They should be ok to use up to approx 4 bar pressure and around 140°C. They are obtainable via eBay, although they can be expensive over here.
Thanks so much for this video Mike. I have been looking for something like this switch for ages, I always keep a look-out at all my gauges in particular when I'm on the motorway but it only takes a few minutes for an ally head to get damaged. The old Bedford TK's had a sensor on the header tank but they are not around in scrapyards these day's to get one off. So !! now I know what my next job is, and it can be done during the winter and it is so cheap and simple,,,, perfect. Once again , many thanks from Yorkshire Rob. Please keep these video's coming .
Perfect timing! I’ve been looking at doing something like this for a while. Thanks Mike. Just a quick note to UK viewers, Amazon have these in black but they show two types, one with the top hat style washer and one with a conventional washer.
I fitted the Range Rover expansion cap with the float switch to my D1, there’s a low coolant alarm kit on eBay which I have found to work really well. The other thing I have is the Fourby 4x4 clock, this is set up to give me coolant temperature via a probe in the top of the cylinder head. That way I can accurately monitor water temperature and I know if the level is low 👍🏻
Usually by the time the temperature rises there is little or no coolant left It is interesting to note from most of my 300Tdi jobs, is it is reported there was little or no sign the engine overheating due to lack of coolant - the sender reads almost normal if the coolant level drops below the sender and allows it to be exposed IF however the engine is working hard and the cooling system is full, THEN the gauge will respond
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike, I think that is because the factory gauge is so damped it takes ages to respond to any temperature change. I’m using a digital display that gives live temp accurate to 0.1C measured from where the EGR coolant temp sensor normally is. It’s very responsive. Hottest temperature I have logged is 103c on a long pull up a motorway flat to the mat
@@tommepham2267 agreed - standard gauge is not very responsive. We replaced ours (and sender) with a VDO one measuring in deg C. Not as good as digital but much better than standard.
Watched 1/2 doz of videos. Like your common sense & keeping it simple! I've been looking for Defender 110's, 1988, 1992; 200TDI imported from England, no emissions. Any red flags to watch for? Watching from Payson,Utah.
Hi Mike, I had the same set up on my 300Tdi and I found that the switch would "perish" every 5 years or so, so I carried a spare in the cubby. I've since gone to the RRC Cap with a double throw relay to make the buzzer work simply. Just some advice on fitting the float switch, put it to the front of the tank instead of the back, that way your alarm won't sound under heavy braking or when going down very steep hills.
Hi. I think it is a great idea. Definitely I'll do one for my S3. Once I've installed one on a gasoline tank on a boat. a marine dedicated kit with a gauge and the float, (can be connected to a fuel gauge or a water one). Here in Sweden cost about 65 us dollars. Thanks for the great tip and the great vids.
I got one of these and I found you put the seal on wrong the seal goes on the inside as you can have the seal not quite sit right the fat lip seals the senser to the tank keeping the threads dry the way you installed it the threads can get wet and although the outside is seal the threads are not allowing it to leak out the threads installed right the pressure will push the senser into the seal keeping it sealed at higher pressures not that it will ever be under much pressure And you can buy them in black which looks a but nicer on the black tanks or black mettle tanks
Just ordered mine Mike! 2€ from ebay. Just las week I had a problem with the waterpump belt, the temperature raised ... and the level went down. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge👍
Great idea and video Mike, just a warning to others I see yours is rated upto 150°c, which is good, similar cheaper ones on ebay I looked at were only rated to 60°c which is not, if anyone is thinking of buying one.
Hi Mike 🤔 great idea 🤔upside down 😂 will work in Australia 😁😁😁 only kidding 😁 well it' is happy Thursday 🍺🍺🍺🍷🍷🍷 keep safe and say well 👍 oh and it's snowing ❄️ over here 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi Mike any ideas how you could make the same system work for a td5 that has a round header tank? I still hope you do a td5 to strip and rebuild like you once mentioned. Td5s are getting to the age were the owners repair them themselves and I think you would get alot of views with the amount of people online who are scared of touching them because they have a few crude sensors and an ECU.
As a RRC owner for many years I feel quite smug, it saved my old VM a few times and now I have a 300 tdi which as you said Mike can have low coolant problems I have left it on, the original switch does fall apart sometimes so when it does and it will I will replace it with one like yours.
@@BritannicaRestorations not quite the same, this float switch is fitted from the outside, no need to feed it through the expansion tank, clever design. Definitely a good idea on your behalf though.
Another great Top Tip, Mike. Thanks a bunch. I have those kind of switches at work on a plate developer and I might give it a go. Edit: There are also versions that work vertically, though it might be a little more finnicky to get the right height.
There is no room to get a vertical one in - I looked at loads of switches before getting this one - the LR one has a float at the bottom and I have yet to check it out but it seems to me that the tank will be empty before the switch makes contact - with this one of mine there is at least 3/4 of the capacity left
can't really fit that thru the td5 coolant tank as there's no space to go thru due to the separation wall inside, other options are non-contact sensor or a BMW E30 325i 325is(17111712641) expansion tank that's almost the same with the exception of the bottom pipe which is slightly larger, but it has a screw in sensor plug.
A great gadget, Mike! I appreciate. But I know these kind of float switches are designed to put them in from the outside. You actually don't need to pull it with the wires from the inside. ;-)
Good example of KISS technology. However with the discussion of quality parts in mind , I suggest to go for at quality part . Also keep in mind that some switches are for Un-pressurised application , if 15PSI is regarded pressurised , I really don't know . It is a good idear , just be sure it is reliable , otherwise it can end up as another indicator light " now it works, Now it don't" and boom here goes your head. I will install a cheap one in my sprinkler , it is also annoying to run out of window washer , but hardly as mission critical.
@@BritannicaRestorations It is all going from KISS to very academic, with now other sites reporting on your design. My main concern is that the switch itself is failing for various reasons. It should work like an oil pressure switch/warning lights system. You could install two switches (aircraft standard) You could install the switch so high that it is ringing the warning light when the vehicle is moving and later when the coolant expands it switches of . If coolant are low at start you will have a constant light, if OK it rings, If NOLIGHT (ring or constant) ,you know you have a system failure! Of cause we could very easily put all this into a small microprocessor that would do all this for you , but then it would become a 2020defender and no KISS no-more.
Good idea Even if your alarm is a little bit surprising when you are on the road like where are the cops ? May be a flashing led ? I have the LR system but i Had recently to change the plug cause of the valve broken. The pb i have is that i swaped the engine 300 tdi by myself and then dont know if my coolant tank is at the good altitude and so don t know if the cross inside indicate the good level Whatever good video good subject very useful i think 👍
I always enjoy your videos and as a newbie to Land Rover and Defenders in particular, I’ll check if my 2011 have such a warning device. If not I’ll implement your great idea. I do have a comment and a suggestion. Not knowing the difference in diameter, would it not be ok to make the hole slightly bigger to allow fitting the switch from the outside ? The silicone seal and collar seem to be the same diameter. Suggestion. Mark the threaded part with the correct switch position up. Either by marker pen or a notch.
The seal needs to be a tight fit - fitting from the outside is not an option As for orientation - not a problem as you can see the switch from the opening and there are 2 flats on the side of the switch on the outside showing the position of the float
Great idea and a lot cheaper than the RR part. My only concern is you did not tilt it forward simulating a steep decent, might be an issue as the switch is at the back!
NZ restoration, I have had this exact float switch fitted in the same way as Mike has showed for many years now. My alarm flashes on a steep downgrade, say entry to a creek, down a steep bank, or an emergency stop under heavy braking, but these are what we used to call in the power generation industry, "fleeting alarms" and are not a problem, and much better than no alarm...
If you consider the length of the switch and the position of the float, it’s probably not far off from the Gen Parts float position, so that is likely to have the same issue.
@@nickboylen6873 yes, you are absolutely correct, in my previous TDI Disco I fitted the original level switch out of a Range Rover, it required, as stated in Mike's video a special electronic circuit board to make it work, (it's a Hall effect sensor), it did flash alarm on steep descent and heavy braking. I now have a later TDI Disco and I've fitted the same float switch as Mike was talking about, (I did it about 5 years ago), and it is no worse than the genuine Rangie one was in my previous Disco.
Great if you live in Holland on the flats.... going to be going on and off if you live in the hills. 😁 So think a light rather than a alarm would be better. Great idea though. 👍
But if the cooling system is operating correctly then when the engine is hot then the tank will have more coolant in it - coolant expands when hot - the clue is in the name of the tank
You should find it all here - they are the same as Tdi but oiled from the axle - but please lube with grease first - do not assemble with just oil! ua-cam.com/video/8p7zcN3W5to/v-deo.html
Don't worry Mick - it's the same 2 knob heads that down tick almost every video I do - still counts a view so I do not mind, but they never have the balls to write anything in the comments - maybe they cannot write?!
Great video as usual..I’ve been a sub for some time now and really enjoy your channel. I’ve a 2003 disco 2. V 8 4.6L Bosch petrol . SE 7. 96k. No I’ve had it 10 years but only use it in Portugal every summer, when the weather is around 27-30 degrees. I’ve been listening to your advice about overheating and head gasket repairs as well as all the other blogs about it. Some advise I should replace the thermostat to the TD 5 stat because it allows more coolant through, other Recommend fitting a Cumputer to the ecu to monitor heating. My question is , What is your advise on preventing overheating?. Ie what should I fit. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the great videos. P.
Hi Mike, thanks for the great videos...you and the trailfitters toolbox made life with my 1st Defender a little easier...it was a steep learning curve but I have been bitten by the dirty LR bug 🤣 Can I ask what’s involved in exporting to Canada... I have a very original 200tdi 110 CSW that I am thinking of selling and am wondering if I would make more selling it for export?...
There's a big market here for Defenders and very good ones make top dollar, but these usually are CSW and LHD and very clean with new or rust free chassis I no longer import RHD as they are getting difficult to source parts for LHD conversions Nobody wants patched up chassis and chequer plate halfway up the body
The 110 in Q? Is a 94 plate CSW Pretty much all original and quite clean. Has had a paint at some point in the past and a rear cross member. It has 12months British MOT
Hello, I Have a P38 1998 4.0 V8 GEMS. The Air-Con Pump has a Noisey Front Bearing, are They Simple Enough to Change the Bearing Please ? The System I Think is Already De-Gas'd on it's own. THANK YOU.
If you mean the bearing on the clutch pulley, they are easy to change - sometimes need a puller to get them off the spline-- not sure how much a bearing is as they are kinds special - I think they are sold as a unit
What sort of angle (Fwd//Back) does it take for the alarm to go off? That is if u are going down a very steep hill will the float switch activate because the fluid has rushed to the front of the reservoir....
In the position it is in, the float is at its maximum height when the coolant is cold - I would think when the engine is hot and the coolant expands, the the level will be even higher in the expansion tank
@@BritannicaRestorations Over that range the water expands about 1.5% in volume. Volume increase =210^10-6 x Delta T deg C...............20 litres of water expands 0.34 litres over 80 deg C range.
I think it would work better the way you had it the first time with the float operating as normally closed. That way it would fail safe, as opposed to a failure causing it to not sound.
ahhhh yea good point, and I guess mounting the float above the plastic seam would be a bit too high, intermittent alarms round corners and bumps etc. I guess the other option is a switch with the opposite type of NO/NC contacts? That way you could get the same moment of activation but use a normally energised circuit to have the fail safe mode? Also just wanted to say, huge fan of your videos, thank you so much for taking the time to make them and share. I recently rebuilt a defender LT77 following your videos, then I was confident enough to use a ruined defender LT77 to convert an disco LT77 over to defender spec. Love all the tips and tricks and hearing your thoughts and musings on things, brilliant.
I was planning to put a warning light on my D1 and i saw those float switches on sale a week ago and i was wondering are they any good. I think im gonna make same kind of setup. Thanks for the video! :)
Mark the external thread using a marker pen so you can get the orientation correct as you tighten the nut
There are 2 flats on the outside that contrast to the float - and it is quite easy to see from the filler
Fitted the range rover float switch to my 300tdi defender just a pointer for anyone fitting 1 of these, on the dash warning lights there is an unused transmission temperature warning light (looks like a cog with a thermometer in the middle) this will give you a nice stock finish inside the car would recommend this mod to everyone its so easy
Indeed - keep it simple
Super idea. I check my level on a regular basis but this is worth doing in case of a sudden leak developing.
Keeping it simple as always Mike! Another video to save.👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
What a great idea! So simple - making Land Rovers better!
Glad you like it!
It’s getting like Blue Peter on here just lately,I’ll order some sticky back plastic and get Jackie to save the tube out of the toilet rolls and the egg boxes for your next video .
Mike, on my 300Tdi I have fitted the same switch exactly as you showed with the exception that mine has a "self check" that the alarm is functioning, it has a relay in the circuit that earths through the oil pressure switch when the ignition is first turned on, this activates the alarm until oil pressure is established, I have a buzzer audible alarm plus a large orange light in dash centre between oil pressure and capillary type temperature gauge. Once the engine is running, if the alarm sounds, it means either oil pressure failure or loss of coolant. It has worked well for many years.
Good idea - the old rover V8's had a pressure switch linked to the ignition so it would not start until there was good oil pressure
To make sure the switch is dead upright put a marker pen on the threads to ensure it doesnt spin when tightening. Great idea!
A) There are 2 flats on the outside showing the orientation B) you can see the float inside the tank
Great idea just saved me from getting on of the kits that cost loads
Glad I could help
What a brilliant idea 👍
Glad you think so!
5:58 - "Is someone stealing your Defender?" - "No, no, just a coolant leak!"
I just installed one of these on my Range Rover Classic. The "special" electronic cap on the overflow tank had failed. On the classic, the float needs to "drop" (flipped the other way around, like you had it in your first attempt apparently. When installed correctly, in the Classic, the switch needs to be closed when the coolant level is correct. The light on the dash comes on when the circuit is broken, coolant level drops) in order to work with the existing wiring in the Classic. It was still very straight forward. Drilled the hole in the expansion tank, popped in the float switch, put some connectors on the ends of the float switch, and plugged it right into where the overflow tank cap connectors went. Your videos are great and amazingly helpful!! Keep them coming.
Thanks!
Great little stitch in time Mike.
By the time most people realise their engine is overheating, the head gasket has already been damaged.
Good video. Enjoyed it.
The temperature gauge on Defenders is merely a suggestion - by the time it rises the coolant will be gone
@@BritannicaRestorations I commend you on your use of the English language.
On AliExpress you can get the floating sensor/switch for less than $1 and an LED with buzzer for same. That's a less than $2 solution. Wow. I've been looking for an affordable coolant level alarm and now I have it. Add another that is turned the other way round as you had done before and it will function for "too much coolant" or whatever use case fits.
Great to see good old British shed engineering
Cheap too!
@@BritannicaRestorations Wouldn't expect anything else.
Excellent tip about the float switch. If only I had one before the block, rear core plug failed. New head now.
I installed a Muirhead coolant level module. Fitted two stainless steel bolts with large washers and neoprene rubber washers (probes), either side of that cross piece in the tank.
The module sends an AC signal between the two probes. Light on dash and a small buzzer.
The neat thing is it does a self test when the ignition is turned on, ie., light and buzzers.
No wounder the tanks fail at the seam because they balloon up under pressure and the heat/cold cycles. Nice demo.
Remarkable glue between the two halves of the tank.
Thanks Ian - I thought he tank would pop at 20 PSI! - I feel an experiment coming on - IF I have another tank!
@@BritannicaRestorations Plug the hole in that first tank, assuming the rest of it is in good nick.
Just doing this to my 90 thanks for the idea fitted a buzzer led to dash
Just last night reading about a chap I no cooling problems long way from home, Romainia took 7 weeks to deliver his 110 back to UK! That simple idea would of solved that ,brilliant.
What do they say - a stitch in time saves nine?
Hi Mike the switches only cost £3.45 on ebay UK and they come in black
I just bought 6 for C$5 each
An extra tank just for jamesons? They could also be used as wading sensors hooked up to leds on a defender diagram plate fixed to the dashboard:)
Lol!
The only problem is when the water level gets a little low the motion of the vehicle will cause a pulsing alarm as the float bounces up and down with the motion of the vehicle, you could incorporate a relay that that latches on when activated giving a permanent power supply to a warning neon, you would need a reset button to break the latch after topping the water up or wire it so turning the engine off kills the power breaking the latch; both would work. Other than that a good idea.
but that is the idea - if the level is low, top up the coolant and look for a leak!
did mine works brilliant great idea
Fantastic!
Hi there great video and very interesting I would like to say though that plastic tanks split regularly so even with the alarm you still will be stranded.. go with the aluminium tank and range rover cap that way you will be covering both angles.. great video and carry on making them
4x4 overland John Desert specialist
Never seen a split tank on clear tank
We use exact same switch in the water tanks on roadsweepers stops the water pumps running dry👍
Could also be fitted to the washer bottle
Awesome! Patent pending? Lol. Thanks for the time expended. 👍🏻🙏🏽🙏🏽😷😷🦘🦘
Any time!
Love your videos Mike. But this one made me need the bathroom.
Sorry!
@@BritannicaRestorations it's like Japanese water torture. Me and my prostate need to have words.
P.s, please don't stop making your videos. I'm a long distance lorry driver and sitting in my cab at night watching your videos is fantastic. It gives me the inspiration to get on with my 110 / disco project at home.
Thanks for doing what you do.
Top man.
My 90 turbo diesel had the sensor cap fitted, and a plain red indicator popped through the dash when it had a defender 200tdi dropped in as part of some sort of upgrade programme in the mid 1990s via LR. Great idea to use off the shelf bits, I'll be fitting similar to my other vehicles I'm sure, thanks!
On the 200TDi defender main loom (bulkhead) there is a slate/red wire on the main connector that hooks up to the chassis loom ( it has no connection on it) . This would normally be used for the gear box temp switch, as it's not used an pretty much all defenders it would be a good warning light to hook it up to on the dash
Yes that would work
This is one of those simple ideas that everybody slaps their foreheads when told and wonder 'why i didn't think of that!'
Like you i would have installed the switch N/C with the float falling with the coolant level...
The annoying thing is i've used these for the same reason on other machines at work in the past, and in EVERY case had to use relay as i installed them all the 'wrong' way!
Added to my Amazon wish list. On my P38 I added an aluminum adapter to the lower radiator hose which has a port for a temperature sensor. I bought an Autometer temperature gauge and sensor. Wired it all up and mounted the gauge on the dash to the left of the steering wheel where it is easily visible. Now I know my normal running temperature, 180 degrees F. Going up by 10 degrees doesn't even register on the dash gauge.
do you remember the part number for the aluminum adapter? It would help me track down something similar.
That's a good idea my 1994 Peugeot 405 TD has a level switch built into the radiator which has come in very use full for cracked plastic water housing's on the engine!
Sounds great!
I got one of this attached on the outside of the coolant tank and a small buzzer.
CQRobot Non-Contact Water/Liquid Level Sensor, pretty cool device.
Indeed, but you need quite a bit of electroniky bits to get it to work!
Cheap and easy way to avoid heartbreak mike !
As I said - better than nothing! There has been many an expansion tank with dust in that I have seen
I've fitted mine but have noticed its rated to 60c i have sourced a stainless one that is a direct replacement if it fails
Even cheaper on ebay got two for £6.......You are a star my man and like the comment below on my td5 would have saved me a cylinder head.
No problem 👍
I know I'm late to the party, but I'd like to suggest an improvement to your circuit.
Reversing the polarity to the switch would be safer, if there's a short circuit the warning would activate rather than blow the fuse (which may not be discovered), rendering the system useless.
Keep up the good work!
Believe me or not, but that's exactly what I did a year ago, just after my cylinder head broke because of the loss of coolant. Funny that with the same type of switch, mounted just a little bit lower in the tank. So look's familiar :) But the only problem is that the buzzer I've attached scares me sometimes. It does't activate while crossing any bumps, but it does while driving around a tight curve left, because all coolant has enough time to move to the right. I've got used to this sound, especially that it confirms that the system still works. But I have the Idea to attach inside the tank some flexible plastic wall to slow down the movement of my coolant. But I'm just too lazy to do it :)
The float switch should have been standard
Great video and great and simple solution for a problem that can become a big mess. Not long ago a silicon end cap broke on my Disco TD5 and I detected the fail from the inside of the car because of the coolant smell. Anyway, the circuit was almost empty and I really don't know how did I manage not to blow the gasket!! Thank you Mike!!
Glad it helped
Bit harder for a td5 given the funny bubble shape of it's expansion tank to drill a hole. If you're keen one of the e30/36 expansion tanks is the same other than having an extra hole with a level sensor in it. Honestly it's a shame LR didn't fit one from the factory.
@@hannahranga thank you! I didn’t know both expansion tanks were so similar! 🥳🥳
In the UK these level switches are used on IMI / Baxi Potterton Powermax boilers. They should be ok to use up to approx 4 bar pressure and around 140°C.
They are obtainable via eBay, although they can be expensive over here.
I just bough 6 more on Amazon for C$5 each - that cheap you can carry a spare
Nice and simple - but clever idea!
Glad you like it!
these float switches are on ebay uk in black £5-6 but check the spec's not all are rated for engine temp's,
This is a high temp one
Thanks so much for this video Mike. I have been looking for something like this switch for ages, I always keep a look-out at all my gauges in particular when I'm on the motorway but it only takes a few minutes for an ally head to get damaged. The old Bedford TK's had a sensor on the header tank but they are not around in scrapyards these day's to get one off. So !! now I know what my next job is, and it can be done during the winter and it is so cheap and simple,,,, perfect. Once again , many thanks from Yorkshire Rob. Please keep these video's coming .
Thanks Rob! Cheap and effective!
Perfect timing! I’ve been looking at doing something like this for a while. Thanks Mike.
Just a quick note to UK viewers, Amazon have these in black but they show two types, one with the top hat style washer and one with a conventional washer.
The top hat washer worked for me - not tried the flat one
What's it under on amazon UK?
@@ytkb8401 I typed in float switch and it was the first item shown.
@@craig_chaznibond452 cheers I actually found it, it shall be delivered tomorrow 😁
Cheers.
I fitted the Range Rover expansion cap with the float switch to my D1, there’s a low coolant alarm kit on eBay which I have found to work really well. The other thing I have is the Fourby 4x4 clock, this is set up to give me coolant temperature via a probe in the top of the cylinder head. That way I can accurately monitor water temperature and I know if the level is low 👍🏻
Usually by the time the temperature rises there is little or no coolant left
It is interesting to note from most of my 300Tdi jobs, is it is reported there was little or no sign the engine overheating due to lack of coolant - the sender reads almost normal if the coolant level drops below the sender and allows it to be exposed
IF however the engine is working hard and the cooling system is full, THEN the gauge will respond
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike, I think that is because the factory gauge is so damped it takes ages to respond to any temperature change. I’m using a digital display that gives live temp accurate to 0.1C measured from where the EGR coolant temp sensor normally is. It’s very responsive. Hottest temperature I have logged is 103c on a long pull up a motorway flat to the mat
@@tommepham2267 agreed - standard gauge is not very responsive. We replaced ours (and sender) with a VDO one measuring in deg C. Not as good as digital but much better than standard.
Watched 1/2 doz of videos. Like your common sense & keeping it simple! I've been looking for Defender 110's, 1988, 1992; 200TDI imported from England, no emissions. Any red flags to watch for? Watching from Payson,Utah.
Rust!
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you!
I did that as well since ghe range rover one is not good for 24v but i used a stainless one :)
Hi Mike, I had the same set up on my 300Tdi and I found that the switch would "perish" every 5 years or so, so I carried a spare in the cubby. I've since gone to the RRC Cap with a double throw relay to make the buzzer work simply. Just some advice on fitting the float switch, put it to the front of the tank instead of the back, that way your alarm won't sound under heavy braking or when going down very steep hills.
Good tip!
Hi. I think it is a great idea. Definitely I'll do one for my S3. Once I've installed one on a gasoline tank on a boat. a marine dedicated kit with a gauge and the float, (can be connected to a fuel gauge or a water one). Here in Sweden cost about 65 us dollars. Thanks for the great tip and the great vids.
Thanks!
I got one of these and I found you put the seal on wrong the seal goes on the inside as you can have the seal not quite sit right the fat lip seals the senser to the tank keeping the threads dry the way you installed it the threads can get wet and although the outside is seal the threads are not allowing it to leak out the threads installed right the pressure will push the senser into the seal keeping it sealed at higher pressures not that it will ever be under much pressure
And you can buy them in black which looks a but nicer on the black tanks or black mettle tanks
Escort mk3 used to have them in the engine coolant bottles and a logon the dash if the water went below the level
Just ordered mine Mike! 2€ from ebay. Just las week I had a problem with the waterpump belt, the temperature raised ... and the level went down. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge👍
Good stuff! Make sure the specs are for high temp and has the top hat silicone bush
Yes! It’s up to 150C degrees! Just like yours, but in black😂
@@tomeucardell water expands when it gets hot the level should go up.
@@coyote5735 yes, but some water went out through the cap
That's good warning can you fit in series to your low brake fluid warning
Mike
May be a bit too large
Super idea! Im actualy driving td5 but will build series 3 with 300tdi engine.
Sounds great!
@@BritannicaRestorations on td5 chasis coil springs. Hope will make it
Great idea and video Mike, just a warning to others I see yours is rated upto 150°c, which is good, similar cheaper ones on ebay I looked at were only rated to 60°c which is not, if anyone is thinking of buying one.
Thanks for the info!
Hi Mike 🤔 great idea 🤔upside down 😂 will work in Australia 😁😁😁 only kidding 😁 well it' is happy Thursday 🍺🍺🍺🍷🍷🍷 keep safe and say well 👍 oh and it's snowing ❄️ over here 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Denis are you in a time warp? It is only wine Wednesday! lol!
Excellent report squadron leader..top of the pops .. and we all do like a nice clinch ..😎😁pip pips
Thank you kindly
Fantastic!!! Would you be able to do a full install in a vehicle to be able to see how to properly do the wiring?
Coming soon!
Hi Mike any ideas how you could make the same system work for a td5 that has a round header tank? I still hope you do a td5 to strip and rebuild like you once mentioned. Td5s are getting to the age were the owners repair them themselves and I think you would get alot of views with the amount of people online who are scared of touching them because they have a few crude sensors and an ECU.
Not realty sure as I hardly see any Td5 here in Canada!
As a RRC owner for many years I feel quite smug, it saved my old VM a few times and now I have a 300 tdi which as you said Mike can have low coolant problems I have left it on, the original switch does fall apart sometimes so when it does and it will I will replace it with one like yours.
You can lose coolant in quickly if you have a slow leak and not know about it as the temp gauge is so vague
Same principle used in commercial buildings on water tanks for high / low warning levels 👍
Yes, you are right
I bought a transparent coolant tank for my Discovery 1 so you can always see the level.
But you cannot see the level from inside the vehicle
Genius. What a good idea.
Glad you think so!
There's a nice quality float switch available from Devilsown water methanol products, self sealing and a lot easier to fit.
Same thing as I have
@@BritannicaRestorations not quite the same, this float switch is fitted from the outside, no need to feed it through the expansion tank, clever design. Definitely a good idea on your behalf though.
“It’s all mucky now, cos I’ve had it in and out that many times “
Ooer ,missus
lol!
Carry on land rovers. Lol
Another great Top Tip, Mike. Thanks a bunch.
I have those kind of switches at work on a plate developer and I might give it a go.
Edit:
There are also versions that work vertically, though it might be a little more finnicky to get the right height.
There is no room to get a vertical one in - I looked at loads of switches before getting this one - the LR one has a float at the bottom and I have yet to check it out but it seems to me that the tank will be empty before the switch makes contact - with this one of mine there is at least 3/4 of the capacity left
Great solution. If you are really paranoid you could simply loop the wire of your fuel solenoid via this switch. :-)
Maybe put an override switch next to it for head destroying emergencies.
Good point!
Super idea! Top marks!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you sincerely. Definitely getting that.
Glad I could help
That’s such a good idea! I’m going to do this on my td5, although the tank is rounded. Would have saved me a head gasket!
No problem 👍
can't really fit that thru the td5 coolant tank as there's no space to go thru due to the separation wall inside, other options are non-contact sensor or a BMW E30 325i 325is(17111712641) expansion tank that's almost the same with the exception of the bottom pipe which is slightly larger, but it has a screw in sensor plug.
@@bluex48 one of my work mates suggested making a aluminium header tank but making it square. I’ll look into the bmw route though. Cheer man
A great gadget, Mike! I appreciate. But I know these kind of float switches are designed to put them in from the outside. You actually don't need to pull it with the wires from the inside. ;-)
Also doubles up as a burglar alarm just in case anyone tries breaking in to your through the coolant system 🤣
Lol! You could also fit one to the screen wash bottle to see if someone nicks your washer fluid!
Good example of KISS technology. However with the discussion of quality parts in mind , I suggest to go for at quality part . Also keep in mind that some switches are for Un-pressurised application , if 15PSI is regarded pressurised , I really don't know . It is a good idear , just be sure it is reliable , otherwise it can end up as another indicator light " now it works, Now it don't" and boom here goes your head. I will install a cheap one in my sprinkler , it is also annoying to run out of window washer , but hardly as mission critical.
well it took 20 psi with no leaks
@@BritannicaRestorations It is all going from KISS to very academic, with now other sites reporting on your design.
My main concern is that the switch itself is failing for various reasons.
It should work like an oil pressure switch/warning lights system.
You could install two switches (aircraft standard)
You could install the switch so high that it is ringing the warning light when the vehicle is moving and later when the coolant expands it switches of . If coolant are low at start you will have a constant light, if OK it rings, If NOLIGHT (ring or constant) ,you know you have a system failure!
Of cause we could very easily put all this into a small microprocessor that would do all this for you , but then it would become a 2020defender and no KISS no-more.
Good idea
Even if your alarm is a little bit surprising when you are on the road like where are the cops ? May be a flashing led ?
I have the LR system but i Had recently to change the plug cause of the valve broken.
The pb i have is that i swaped the engine 300 tdi by myself and then dont know if my coolant tank is at the good altitude and so don t know if the cross inside indicate the good level
Whatever good video good subject very useful i think 👍
That alarm was so it could be picked up on video as my multimeter ring was not very loud!
nowadays you have to have it trigger a text message to their cell phone so they can respond more immediate lol!
Lol!
Great videos!! 👌
Thanks! 👍
I always enjoy your videos and as a newbie to Land Rover and Defenders in particular, I’ll check if my 2011 have such a warning device. If not I’ll implement your great idea.
I do have a comment and a suggestion.
Not knowing the difference in diameter, would it not be ok to make the hole slightly bigger to allow fitting the switch from the outside ? The silicone seal and collar seem to be the same diameter.
Suggestion. Mark the threaded part with the correct switch position up. Either by marker pen or a notch.
The seal needs to be a tight fit - fitting from the outside is not an option
As for orientation - not a problem as you can see the switch from the opening and there are 2 flats on the side of the switch on the outside showing the position of the float
Your a bloody genius, keep them coming, great!
Thanks, will do!
Super video Mike ,thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great idea and a lot cheaper than the RR part. My only concern is you did not tilt it forward simulating a steep decent, might be an issue as the switch is at the back!
I doubt it - but there is not much space at the front
NZ restoration, I have had this exact float switch fitted in the same way as Mike has showed for many years now. My alarm flashes on a steep downgrade, say entry to a creek, down a steep bank, or an emergency stop under heavy braking, but these are what we used to call in the power generation industry, "fleeting alarms" and are not a problem, and much better than no alarm...
@@gazzafloss I would call it a test how else do you know the switch isn't stuck
If you consider the length of the switch and the position of the float, it’s probably not far off from the Gen Parts float position, so that is likely to have the same issue.
@@nickboylen6873 yes, you are absolutely correct, in my previous TDI Disco I fitted the original level switch out of a Range Rover, it required, as stated in Mike's video a special electronic circuit board to make it work, (it's a Hall effect sensor), it did flash alarm on steep descent and heavy braking. I now have a later TDI Disco and I've fitted the same float switch as Mike was talking about, (I did it about 5 years ago), and it is no worse than the genuine Rangie one was in my previous Disco.
thanks for the info on the alarm have you got a part number for that , many thanks
No, sorry
Great if you live in Holland on the flats.... going to be going on and off if you live in the hills. 😁 So think a light rather than a alarm would be better. Great idea though. 👍
But if the cooling system is operating correctly then when the engine is hot then the tank will have more coolant in it - coolant expands when hot - the clue is in the name of the tank
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Brilliant information
Glad you liked it
Great idea Mike 👍👍👍👍
Glad you like it
Hi Mike do you recommend changing the door hinges and mirror arms to stainless steel to prevent rusting in those areas?
Could do but they are expensive
Brilliant, how about a ballcock sett up like in a bog and a spare header tank, instant top up 🤣🤣🤣
Wot on the roof? Will be a block of ice this weather ! lol!
Hi Mike, could you do a video on the 19j type wheel bearings the ones where the axle oil lubricates the bearings? Cheers buddy
You should find it all here - they are the same as Tdi but oiled from the axle - but please lube with grease first - do not assemble with just oil!
ua-cam.com/video/8p7zcN3W5to/v-deo.html
@@BritannicaRestorations
Cheers Mike
Thanks! Great idea!
Glad it was helpful!
Quality 👍
Hi Mike, brilliant as ever. Does this give you any false alarms while going uphill or going to a curve?
Not really - only when the level is down
Thanks Mike as always...keep it up from Malta.
Brilliant
What 2 ##### give thumbs down! Unbelievable.
Don't worry Mick - it's the same 2 knob heads that down tick almost every video I do - still counts a view so I do not mind, but they never have the balls to write anything in the comments - maybe they cannot write?!
great research....do we know if the switch will work ok with 90deg water and antifreeze?
Cannot see why not as it is used in a number of industrial processes
Great video as usual..I’ve been a sub for some time now and really enjoy your channel. I’ve a 2003 disco 2. V 8 4.6L Bosch petrol . SE 7. 96k. No I’ve had it 10 years but only use it in Portugal every summer, when the weather is around 27-30 degrees. I’ve been listening to your advice about overheating and head gasket repairs as well as all the other blogs about it. Some advise I should replace the thermostat to the TD 5 stat because it allows more coolant through, other Recommend fitting a Cumputer to the ecu to monitor heating. My question is , What is your advise on preventing overheating?. Ie what should I fit. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the great videos. P.
Pat - I am going to be 100% straight with you, but we have hardly any Td5 here in Canada, so I have zero experience of them - I am sorry I cannot help
Hi Mike, Thanks for the video, great idea! Do you think this switch would fit in the 19j metal style expansion tank as well?
From memory I do not think so as it it too rounded
Hi Mike, thanks for the great videos...you and the trailfitters toolbox made life with my 1st Defender a little easier...it was a steep learning curve but I have been bitten by the dirty LR bug 🤣
Can I ask what’s involved in exporting to Canada... I have a very original 200tdi 110 CSW that I am thinking of selling and am wondering if I would make more selling it for export?...
There's a big market here for Defenders and very good ones make top dollar, but these usually are CSW and LHD and very clean with new or rust free chassis
I no longer import RHD as they are getting difficult to source parts for LHD conversions
Nobody wants patched up chassis and chequer plate halfway up the body
The 110 in Q? Is a 94 plate CSW Pretty much all original and quite clean.
Has had a paint at some point in the past and a rear cross member.
It has 12months British MOT
@@BritannicaRestorations Do you have an email address I could fwd pics too...interested in your opinion
Hello, I Have a P38 1998 4.0 V8 GEMS.
The Air-Con Pump has a Noisey Front Bearing,
are They Simple Enough to Change the Bearing Please ?
The System I Think is Already De-Gas'd on it's own.
THANK YOU.
If you mean the bearing on the clutch pulley, they are easy to change - sometimes need a puller to get them off the spline-- not sure how much a bearing is as they are kinds special - I think they are sold as a unit
What sort of angle (Fwd//Back) does it take for the alarm to go off? That is if u are going down a very steep hill will the float switch activate because the fluid has rushed to the front of the reservoir....
In the position it is in, the float is at its maximum height when the coolant is cold - I would think when the engine is hot and the coolant expands, the the level will be even higher in the expansion tank
@@BritannicaRestorations Over that range the water expands about 1.5% in volume. Volume increase =210^10-6 x Delta T deg C...............20 litres of water expands 0.34 litres over 80 deg C range.
I think it would work better the way you had it the first time with the float operating as normally closed. That way it would fail safe, as opposed to a failure causing it to not sound.
problem was there would be a lot lower coolant level by the time the float activated
ahhhh yea good point, and I guess mounting the float above the plastic seam would be a bit too high, intermittent alarms round corners and bumps etc.
I guess the other option is a switch with the opposite type of NO/NC contacts? That way you could get the same moment of activation but use a normally energised circuit to have the fail safe mode?
Also just wanted to say, huge fan of your videos, thank you so much for taking the time to make them and share. I recently rebuilt a defender LT77 following your videos, then I was confident enough to use a ruined defender LT77 to convert an disco LT77 over to defender spec. Love all the tips and tricks and hearing your thoughts and musings on things, brilliant.
Thanks Jordan
I looked for different switches but I needed a side entry and there were not that many option on NO/NC
I was planning to put a warning light on my D1 and i saw those float switches on sale a week ago and i was wondering are they any good. I think im gonna make same kind of setup.
Thanks for the video! :)
Yes they are