I watch a LOT of repair videos and try to watch one or two for a specific vehicle for a specific job before I do it just in case there are any odd ball things, this one is straight forward, but this dude is terrific! Going to see what else he's got.
Very helpful and useful knowledge, the attention to safety is key as mentioned in this video. Detailed description and step by step directions. Doesn't get any better. Appreciate the good work. 👍
Thanks so much man! It's hard finding videos that are actually instructive and with good videography so the viewers can SEE what's going on. Yours was both and I appreciate it.
Thank you, what a great and comprehensive video. I have an 01' Dakota that I need to replace a broken leaf spring and had some general ideas on how to do it. But after watching your video, I now feel very confident on taking on that project.
Thanks for the video, best example of step by step on the leaf springs. I have watch about 60 video and they always skip a part somewhere. None of the mentioned anything about not tightens the bolts til the end.
Hey thanks for the help. Luckily my leafs are still good, but like you said, the Ubolts stretch over time. Mine have stretched and I could hear some loose clunking in the back. Again, like you mentioned, my local spring shop made two sets of Ubolts for me in 10 min. He even threw in some free center bolts. I’m preparing to knock this replacement out now. Thanks again! Great video and tips all around 👍🏼
Nice to see even the pros have to do things two...three times! lol Thanks for passing along all the great info. The more videos i watch of yours, the more impressed i get.
Just a heads up to anyone doing a bit older super duty...be prepared to cuss and fight the bottom shackle bolt because over time it bends and won't come out easy like it did in this video. Have yourself plenty of smaller length sawzall blades and a cutoff wheel handy. I personally went through 8 blades cutting through the backside of the bolt
Wish I'd seen this comment before 2 hours of pounding and useless twisting tension on the spring lmao I ended up just cutting it out (8 cheap sawsall blades later...get the good ones) 👍
Hey. Buddy, started doing my 2002 last night. By myself , that sucks, but when grinding through the u bolts there was a loud assed bang as the holy cracked. Scared me. So I took a break for the night. Now I'm going back to it. In a lil bit this morning. I have the axel jacked up a lil bit. Should I expect the bolt to snap again when cutting the rest of the way through? I'm scared of the jack stands too. I'm not a mechanic. Never got into this stuff until this truck. And it's not too bad but it's tough.. great video your real informative and a real skilled professional. Too. Salute to you buddy thanks for the videos.
Great video. I know you say replace both but just my 2 cents the reason the spring snaps is because of the torque load on the passenger side. I worked in a Spring shop for years we used to always see the right side passenger Spring break
Getting ready to tackle the leafs on my 2015 super duty. This video is the best one I've found. Thank you it was a ton of help!! Now to find the torque specs!!
Great video, I have an 06 f250 4x4, I need to change the rear driveshaft center carrier bearing, do you have a video showing this, I know there are other videos showing this but I trust your workmanship
Mine is a 00 F250 4x4. Im having trouble breaking loose the lower rear shackle bolts. Also, the factory undercoat is cracked all over and has caused more surface than it prevented. So everything has to be cleaned. ( bolt heads, top cleats, etc) A high speed air die grinder, w/a wire wheel works best. Its a bit more difficult with the bed on. So I may have to cut the bottom bolts
First off...I love your content. Very informational and explained excellently. Now that thats out of the way... im sitting here doing springs and brakes on the back of my 99 f350 dually laughing my ass off. Solid ground?? Not cheap jack stands?? I got the ass end of my dually in the air held up by 2 harbor freight 3 ton jack stands on top of 8x8 wooden blocks. In a gravel driveway...with no power tools. Hahaha. 🤷♂️
Do you think the spring can be removed from the truck with out lifting the truck. I have to get one from a junk yard but they don’t allow and jacks grinders or torches in order to remove any parts
Aloha Nathan, Another fine video! Would this be the same procedure if "adding-a-leaf" for upgrading payload capacity for towing or cargo hauling? I'm thinking of adding a leaf on my utility service body to compensate some sag. And by the way, what is the size of the Heavy Duty F-Clamp you are using? Thanks again. I learn a lot from your channel. You da man.
As long as you have some decent Jack stands, a floor Jack and hand tools it can be done. The bolts can fight you sometimes but definitely a driveway job.
Hey you recommend torquing the U-bolts when all the weight of the suspension is on the truck? I snug them up and then let the suspension down before I torque them. I figure that way the leafs are bing bent over the axle so to speak and flatter under the plate. Probably makes no difference IDK.
Great video quick question,my current trucks leaf springs on one side the leaf weights aren’t lined up,well the bottom one isn’t . It’s shifted out about an inch can this be the cause of a vibration? In the rear end?
@@InTheShop Anything with a sleeve here is a nightmare. I just did a Lexus GS rear strut. The bolt was smoking hot when I got it out after 20 minutes of spinning. I wonder even if the anti seize matters after 10+ winters.
I have a 17 Winnebago class A. It's leaning to the right 3". I installed sumo springs on all 4 corners. When installing the rear I had to jack up the left side axle 7"to get the mount hole on the spring to the center mark on the frame for mounting. When I did the right side I only had to raise the axle 3-4". The springs reduced the lean to 1"but still leans. I'm thinking the spring is week. I found no obvious defects on the spring when I inspected it. I'm considering swapping the two springs to see if the lean follows before I replace with new. Thoughts on this idea? It's a F53 chassis.
I have a Truck F150, the left spring is broken, I'm going to replace it, do you recommend just changing the one that is broken or changing both the left and right?👍👍
So I have a f250 4x4 changed the shocks still making loud clunking noise from the rear end only going over speed bumps but it sounds and sometimes feels like the bed is gonna break any ideas?
I would check the bed rails to see if they are rotted. If they are ok I would check to see if the cab mount bushings have failed. It’s very common for the rear bushings on the cab to fail and make a bad clunk
This owner CLEARLY overloads this F250 daily or weekly. The overload spring is worn where the pads have been rubbing into it, especially the front half where that only touches when the spring is at max capacity. Second the secondary leaf (large one on the bottom that supports the main leafs in severe capacity loading) is rubbed and rusted all the way to the ends indicating this truck is clearly overloaded regularly and laying on the secondary too much. Third the problem isnt the Ford leaf spring, it's people who buy 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton trucks when they should be buying a F350 srw/dually/450 or a F550 truck. Finally you should have explained to the customer he needs to upgrade to a higher capacity spring after clearly seeing the evidence of this truck being overloaded regularly. If they do not want to buy a truck for the correct payload capacity at least beef up the springs after a overload failure like this
Back in the 70s and 80s, any 1/2 ton pickup could out haul this f-series bread hauler with factory leaf packs boasting two to three times more leaves. With an over emphasis on a comfortable ride, the spring packs are simply too soft for anyone who actually loads their truck.
Hoping someone could shed some light on my situation. I had this exact same leaf broke on my truck..passenger side...replaced both leaf packs on the truck. and started torquing down the bolts......the information i found on a forum was a criss cross pattern. 48 ftlbs then 96 ftlbs, then 148 ftlbs then the final torque was 195ftlbs. the passenger side the ubolt started bending at the threads. but i was still able to torque it. the other side...got through all 4 torque sequences but the last nut the ubolt and the plate started bending like crazy...then the plate finally snapped while i was trying to reach 195 ftlbs....can someone tell me what I did wrong? The U bolts and nuts were new from ford...they used the VIN number from my truck to order them. but I didn't buy new plates. And I had a new pittsburg 3/4 drive torque wrench from harbor freight....ive borrowed plenty of torque wrenches for various things before...and I do know what torquing a bolt to 200+ ftlbs feels like so I dont feel like the wrench was innacurate or anything. Hoping someone out there can help shed some light on what went wrong.....this was the first time I replaced Leaf springs that required this high of a torque value.
Well this turned out to be a tough lesson learned for me. But I can't count the number of times I've searched forums over issues I've had with my trucks only to find a several year old thread the OP started having the exact same issue then disappearing and never coming back to update anyone on what they figured out. So in the spirit of hoping maybe this will help someone else out some day, say no to harbor freight pittsburgh torque wrenches. Now I'll admit I'm a Harbor Freight fan. And I have several Pittsburgh tools that have yet to let me down. But the torque wrench in question was a new purchase specifically for this job because of the high torque requirements for the U-bolts. It was the 3/4 drive 50-300 ftlb wrench....I have no way of knowing how far off it was...I do research every tool I buy before I buy it. It had great reviews and the 3/8ths and 1/2 inch drive torque wrenches I found videos on youtube showing their accuracy and repeatability, the 1/2 in drive being the lesser impressive of the two. But how far off could the 3/4 drive be?...All I can say is for the side that didn't break, by the time the wrench clicked at the 195 ftlbs I had it set to, the U-bolt cap was no longer flat and the ends of the U-bolts were bent. Obviously the other side didn't survive however far over 195 the wrench was actually torqueing to. Also in the spirit of not learning my lesson, Harbor Freight took the wrench back and I left with the Icon 1/2 inch 50-250 ftlb torque wrench. It was far superior. There is a tool review video on youtube pitting the icon against the snap-on equivalent and it outperformed the snap-on for accuracy and repeatability. I am super happy with it. The new hardware for the truck came in this morning and both sides of the truck torqued through all the sequences just fine with no distortion or U-bolt bending of any kind.
Atleast mine haven't cracked, but mine could be replaced soon they're rusty as fuck, and one is kinda bent upwards on rear I might get mine replaced this spring. Also you should never reuse the original shackle or hardware when replacing leaf springs, same with lift blocks, always change em out it'll save you a lot more time and longer lasting springs. I plan on replacing the shackles, u bolts, hardware, lift blocks when I do mine, not the leaf springs and u bolts.
If you don’t have a torque wrench I’d be willing to bet u shouldn’t be attempting this job if one thing this video should have taught the novice this is best left to a real mechanic or issues will follow. I am in hvac primarily I’ve torn apart trucks half my life to save a buck. Yes I’ve saved thousands I’ve also spit out u bolts In the middle of the highway after changing leaf springs don’t be me.
This was one of the best videos I've seen so far
The best video on UA-cam about changing leaf springs. Thanks.
I watch a LOT of repair videos and try to watch one or two for a specific vehicle for a specific job before I do it just in case there are any odd ball things, this one is straight forward, but this dude is terrific! Going to see what else he's got.
Best instructional video on UA-cam for this job. Appreciate you.
Very helpful and useful knowledge, the attention to safety is key as mentioned in this video. Detailed description and step by step directions. Doesn't get any better. Appreciate the good work. 👍
All you tube instructional videos should be put together like this. Great work.
Thanks Eric! I try hard.
That might be your best video yet! Informational, not drawn out. Great editing! Just an all around perfect instructional video bud!
Thanks Matt! I'm getting more comfortable every time I make one of these. Been trying really hard to create watchable content.
Thanks so much man! It's hard finding videos that are actually instructive and with good videography so the viewers can SEE what's going on. Yours was both and I appreciate it.
Thank you, what a great and comprehensive video. I have an 01' Dakota that I need to replace a broken leaf spring and had some general ideas on how to do it. But after watching your video, I now feel very confident on taking on that project.
Thanks for the video, best example of step by step on the leaf springs. I have watch about 60 video and they always skip a part somewhere. None of the mentioned anything about not tightens the bolts til the end.
Thanks a lot for this video. Hours of watching these videos and this is definitely the most informative leaf spring replacement video I have found.
Thank you!!
Another great tutorial sir! Doing both leaf springs and rear shocks on my 05' F350 ahead of camping season.
Thanx for the ratchet-strap tip to line up the spring with the block.
Ditto that.
I like your vids. You do a great job of explaining things and providing practical information and techniques.
Good job on replacing rear leaf springs on Ford truck.😊
Changed mine out today. Only video I had to watch. Great video!
Hey thanks for the help. Luckily my leafs are still good, but like you said, the Ubolts stretch over time. Mine have stretched and I could hear some loose clunking in the back. Again, like you mentioned, my local spring shop made two sets of Ubolts for me in 10 min. He even threw in some free center bolts. I’m preparing to knock this replacement out now. Thanks again! Great video and tips all around 👍🏼
Nice to see even the pros have to do things two...three times! lol
Thanks for passing along all the great info. The more videos i watch of yours, the more impressed i get.
Haha yup none of us are perfect. Thanks for watching!
Just a heads up to anyone doing a bit older super duty...be prepared to cuss and fight the bottom shackle bolt because over time it bends and won't come out easy like it did in this video. Have yourself plenty of smaller length sawzall blades and a cutoff wheel handy. I personally went through 8 blades cutting through the backside of the bolt
They can definitely be a pain. Especially in the rust belt of the country.
Wish I'd seen this comment before 2 hours of pounding and useless twisting tension on the spring lmao
I ended up just cutting it out (8 cheap sawsall blades later...get the good ones) 👍
I’m having a problem taking out the ones where you need a big alen key lmao nobody has that tool
Hey. Buddy, started doing my 2002 last night. By myself , that sucks, but when grinding through the u bolts there was a loud assed bang as the holy cracked. Scared me. So I took a break for the night. Now I'm going back to it. In a lil bit this morning. I have the axel jacked up a lil bit. Should I expect the bolt to snap again when cutting the rest of the way through? I'm scared of the jack stands too. I'm not a mechanic. Never got into this stuff until this truck. And it's not too bad but it's tough.. great video your real informative and a real skilled professional. Too. Salute to you buddy thanks for the videos.
Great video man. I'm about to dive into this on my truck and I'm so thankful for a well-done tutorial.
How did it go
@Callahan calvert Wasn't too bad! Worst part was grinding the rivets off. Just awkward to get at them.
Excellent Vidyu all round. Gonna do mine now and have every confidence I need now......Thanks for taking the time and for posting.
Glad to help!
Another great video! I’m tackling front leafs on my 04 F250 very soon.
Great video. I know you say replace both but just my 2 cents the reason the spring snaps is because of the torque load on the passenger side. I worked in a Spring shop for years we used to always see the right side passenger Spring break
Mine seems to break every 40,000 miles
Thank you for your time, this definitely helped the process for me.
No problem! thank you
Excellent work!!!!
Thanks dude! Great video, helped me a ton! Keep up the good work.
Thank you! great video! Need to do this job on my Jeep J10 1974 today.
Getting ready to tackle the leafs on my 2015 super duty. This video is the best one I've found. Thank you it was a ton of help!! Now to find the torque specs!!
Thanks Kenny!
Great job i havent seen anybody do the radius arm bushings 4 wheel drive on a F250-F550 2005-present.
Thanks Ricardo! If I get one in for that I will make a video.
Excellent work and thorough.
Thanks John!
Thank You Very Much. Extremely useful and informative video.
24:20 My 2023 Ford XLT Ranger bump stops are a bit "chewed" up. That older vehicle bump stop has not been touched.
Very thorough! You don't see that often in the youth of today.
Thank you!
Bro this is gold
Funny at 5:09 when you mention rust my Tacoma leaf was broken and would you know it a bunch of rust. Clearly had been broken for awhile
Great work, Great advice
Great video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks Paul.
I always use anti seize on alum rims to make removal easy.
Great video, I have an 06 f250 4x4, I need to change the rear driveshaft center carrier bearing, do you have a video showing this, I know there are other videos showing this but I trust your workmanship
Hey Dave, I don't have a video covering that unfortunately. I do plan to make one in the future.
Thanks!:Very good job and helpful video.
Another great video, the only thing missed was you should show the spring code on the door label.
Thanks Jim! I considered adding that in but I wanted to try to leave it somewhat generic. Great information though! Thank you!
Jim now your gonna have to explain that spring code, I'm curious....
He knows his stuff
Thank you!
Great video!
Good one. Thanks.
Thanks George!
Good vid bro
Great vid. Thanks
Nice job
Thanks Tim!
Well spoken
Mine is a 00 F250 4x4. Im having trouble breaking loose the lower rear shackle bolts. Also, the factory undercoat is cracked all over and has caused more surface than it prevented. So everything has to be cleaned. ( bolt heads, top cleats, etc) A high speed air die grinder, w/a wire wheel works best. Its a bit more difficult with the bed on. So I may have to cut the bottom bolts
First off...I love your content. Very informational and explained excellently. Now that thats out of the way... im sitting here doing springs and brakes on the back of my 99 f350 dually laughing my ass off. Solid ground?? Not cheap jack stands?? I got the ass end of my dually in the air held up by 2 harbor freight 3 ton jack stands on top of 8x8 wooden blocks. In a gravel driveway...with no power tools. Hahaha. 🤷♂️
Very good information 💯✌
Do you think the spring can be removed from the truck with out lifting the truck. I have to get one from a junk yard but they don’t allow and jacks grinders or torches in order to remove any parts
Ive have an f350, I want to remove the upper leaf, for a smoother ride, is there a block
I need to replace for the added space now?
Great video. Were those 6 ton jack stands you were using? I dont have a lift, so trying to make do with what I have.
Aloha Nathan, Another fine video! Would this be the same procedure if "adding-a-leaf" for upgrading payload capacity for towing or cargo hauling? I'm thinking of adding a leaf on my utility service body to compensate some sag.
And by the way, what is the size of the Heavy Duty F-Clamp you are using? Thanks again. I learn a lot from your channel. You da man.
Aloha! Yup same procedure for an add a leaf. Any decent size c clamp will work just fine. They arent under tremendous pressure.
Good job. Got a 05 Sduty. Rides like a truck 😂
Haha yup. Thanks for watching.
So the short end of the spring goes towards the front? Long end towards the rear?
Correct.
In The Shop Thank you for your help!
Thanks man I learned a lot! Can a diyer perform this job u think
As long as you have some decent Jack stands, a floor Jack and hand tools it can be done. The bolts can fight you sometimes but definitely a driveway job.
Hey you recommend torquing the U-bolts when all the weight of the suspension is on the truck? I snug them up and then let the suspension down before I torque them. I figure that way the leafs are bing bent over the axle so to speak and flatter under the plate. Probably makes no difference IDK.
The spring perch and the lower plate are both flat so I don't think it would make a difference but it won't hurt thats for sure.
Bolts are $25.00 each for spring hangers those impact guns are Awesome!
so can i get a link to the leaf springs u used please
Great video quick question,my current trucks leaf springs on one side the leaf weights aren’t lined up,well the bottom one isn’t . It’s shifted out about an inch can this be the cause of a vibration? In the rear end?
I have a 96 Explorer. I couldn't get the shackle bolts out with powerful impact and air hammer. Ended up cutting everything.
Those can be a real pain. The bolts get stuck like that all the time.
@@InTheShop Anything with a sleeve here is a nightmare. I just did a Lexus GS rear strut. The bolt was smoking hot when I got it out after 20 minutes of spinning. I wonder even if the anti seize matters after 10+ winters.
Where do you find them top plate I need two of them I’ve google them can’t find them thanks man good video
If you have a 99-2010 f250, 350, or excursion these should work.
amzn.to/3yt99at
Yes I need some new ones do you know where to find them at
@@rickeyketchum6671 the link I just put in that comment should have them
I have a 17 Winnebago class A. It's leaning to the right 3". I installed sumo springs on all 4 corners. When installing the rear I had to jack up the left side axle 7"to get the mount hole on the spring to the center mark on the frame for mounting. When I did the right side I only had to raise the axle 3-4". The springs reduced the lean to 1"but still leans. I'm thinking the spring is week. I found no obvious defects on the spring when I inspected it. I'm considering swapping the two springs to see if the lean follows before I replace with new. Thoughts on this idea? It's a F53 chassis.
Sir i want one video of maruti gypsy leaf spring removing procedure
If you're just adding an overload spring do you still need to loosen the shackle on the spring when you put it back in?
I have a Truck F150, the left spring is broken, I'm going to replace it, do you recommend just changing the one that is broken or changing both the left and right?👍👍
I recommend replacing them in pairs.
So I have a f250 4x4 changed the shocks still making loud clunking noise from the rear end only going over speed bumps but it sounds and sometimes feels like the bed is gonna break any ideas?
I would check the bed rails to see if they are rotted. If they are ok I would check to see if the cab mount bushings have failed. It’s very common for the rear bushings on the cab to fail and make a bad clunk
Were did you order your leaf spring from in Canada
I’m in Massachusetts and I ordered it from a local spring shop.
@@InTheShop What brand ?
@@stephanvallee5167 , yes that's what I want to know.
Where can I get that top saddle plate the u bolt sits on?
Where did you order the replacement leaf spring from? Thanks.
I ordered them from a local spring shop. You can get them from a dealership or try looking around for a spring shop in your area.
This owner CLEARLY overloads this F250 daily or weekly. The overload spring is worn where the pads have been rubbing into it, especially the front half where that only touches when the spring is at max capacity. Second the secondary leaf (large one on the bottom that supports the main leafs in severe capacity loading) is rubbed and rusted all the way to the ends indicating this truck is clearly overloaded regularly and laying on the secondary too much. Third the problem isnt the Ford leaf spring, it's people who buy 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton trucks when they should be buying a F350 srw/dually/450 or a F550 truck.
Finally you should have explained to the customer he needs to upgrade to a higher capacity spring after clearly seeing the evidence of this truck being overloaded regularly. If they do not want to buy a truck for the correct payload capacity at least beef up the springs after a overload failure like this
Leaf springs also break on ruff roads with no load on them. Everything eventually will break.
Back in the 70s and 80s, any 1/2 ton pickup could out haul this f-series bread hauler with factory leaf packs boasting two to three times more leaves. With an over emphasis on a comfortable ride, the spring packs are simply too soft for anyone who actually loads their truck.
Are you in Massachusetts sir
How can I contact you
@@roadwarrior9647 I’m in Massachusetts. You can email me at nathan@intheshopmedia.com
Why halfway through the video do you stop mentioning the socket sizes and such it's very useful information.
What are we talking in cost price?
2-3 hours of labor and the springs cost me about $250 each.
@@InTheShop not bad👍
How much charges u got?
Hoping someone could shed some light on my situation. I had this exact same leaf broke on my truck..passenger side...replaced both leaf packs on the truck. and started torquing down the bolts......the information i found on a forum was a criss cross pattern. 48 ftlbs then 96 ftlbs, then 148 ftlbs then the final torque was 195ftlbs. the passenger side the ubolt started bending at the threads. but i was still able to torque it. the other side...got through all 4 torque sequences but the last nut the ubolt and the plate started bending like crazy...then the plate finally snapped while i was trying to reach 195 ftlbs....can someone tell me what I did wrong? The U bolts and nuts were new from ford...they used the VIN number from my truck to order them. but I didn't buy new plates. And I had a new pittsburg 3/4 drive torque wrench from harbor freight....ive borrowed plenty of torque wrenches for various things before...and I do know what torquing a bolt to 200+ ftlbs feels like so I dont feel like the wrench was innacurate or anything. Hoping someone out there can help shed some light on what went wrong.....this was the first time I replaced Leaf springs that required this high of a torque value.
Well this turned out to be a tough lesson learned for me. But I can't count the number of times I've searched forums over issues I've had with my trucks only to find a several year old thread the OP started having the exact same issue then disappearing and never coming back to update anyone on what they figured out. So in the spirit of hoping maybe this will help someone else out some day, say no to harbor freight pittsburgh torque wrenches. Now I'll admit I'm a Harbor Freight fan. And I have several Pittsburgh tools that have yet to let me down. But the torque wrench in question was a new purchase specifically for this job because of the high torque requirements for the U-bolts. It was the 3/4 drive 50-300 ftlb wrench....I have no way of knowing how far off it was...I do research every tool I buy before I buy it. It had great reviews and the 3/8ths and 1/2 inch drive torque wrenches I found videos on youtube showing their accuracy and repeatability, the 1/2 in drive being the lesser impressive of the two. But how far off could the 3/4 drive be?...All I can say is for the side that didn't break, by the time the wrench clicked at the 195 ftlbs I had it set to, the U-bolt cap was no longer flat and the ends of the U-bolts were bent. Obviously the other side didn't survive however far over 195 the wrench was actually torqueing to. Also in the spirit of not learning my lesson, Harbor Freight took the wrench back and I left with the Icon 1/2 inch 50-250 ftlb torque wrench. It was far superior. There is a tool review video on youtube pitting the icon against the snap-on equivalent and it outperformed the snap-on for accuracy and repeatability. I am super happy with it. The new hardware for the truck came in this morning and both sides of the truck torqued through all the sequences just fine with no distortion or U-bolt bending of any kind.
Have you got a solution to the death wobble on these?
I may make another video on that but check your trac bar and all other steering components.
On Facebook you said you were doing a giveaway on the 12th what happened?
I did the Giveaway live on the Facebook group on that day.
In The Shop oh what was the name of the guy who won
Ashton Strickland. If you go to the search bar on the group and type in giveaway you should be able to pull up the video from the live drawing
i wish my u bolts were upside down like this
Just did mine am I the only one noticing the rear ended sitting on a Slant
Was anyone else thinking " just Bungee cord the leafs before taking out bolt and u won't need a friend"
Atleast mine haven't cracked, but mine could be replaced soon they're rusty as fuck, and one is kinda bent upwards on rear I might get mine replaced this spring.
Also you should never reuse the original shackle or hardware when replacing leaf springs, same with lift blocks, always change em out it'll save you a lot more time and longer lasting springs. I plan on replacing the shackles, u bolts, hardware, lift blocks when I do mine, not the leaf springs and u bolts.
is nothing wrong with Chinese steel...it is good quality
I m also truck leaf mechanic in india ,can u give me job offer
"Superduty" ...... yea right.
If you don’t have a torque wrench I’d be willing to bet u shouldn’t be attempting this job if one thing this video should have taught the novice this is best left to a real mechanic or issues will follow. I am in hvac primarily I’ve torn apart trucks half my life to save a buck. Yes I’ve saved thousands I’ve also spit out u bolts In the middle of the highway after changing leaf springs don’t be me.
Ur good kid you know your shit