Ya Welcome Gaz.Thank you I teach public speakers to give presentations/instruction ie : Slow and concise, Mastery of learning : 1/ Tell them what you’re going to tell them 2/ Tell them 3/ Tell them what you told them, and the benefits of., No Crutch words etc .... Credit where credit’s due Thank you Please be safe Roger
Very well explained. I wish you were my lecturer when I was at college back in 2000. It may help some students if you also explained the "old school" singles method of wiring a 2 way/ 2way and intermediate where the permanent line conductor feeds the first switch and the switch line exits the last switch. Great vid.
Conduit Loop-in Method for Wiring Lighting Circuits in PVC Singles in Conduit (How to) ua-cam.com/video/tURG2VZd56w/v-deo.html I have a series of videos covering wiring in conduit. Massive thanks for the great comment. Gaz 🦾
easiest tutorial yet made my consumer unit project 2 way switching via a pendant work well waiting for the hager consumer unit breakers here but not consumer unit
once again very well explained. Thats how I do it the black as common, two browns L1 and the blue and grey L2. I found it easy to remember casting my mind back to the 80s and a tv series called the Blue and Gray (American civil war). The old colours black 'n' blue as in beaten for L2. Its how I remember through association. Vulcanised Indian Rubber = Ohms Law.
Excellent explanation, trying to figure this shit out on site for the 1st time between floors is a bit of a pain. Especially when your working with sparks that have been doing it for 20+ years and I'm a 1st year adult trainee that's never seen an intermediate switch😂. They just explain it in 1 min and expect you to get it haha, now I get it, cheers👍🏾
Thank you GSH, understand that the common only terminates at the first and last switch and is joined to pass the intermediate switches (DR level 2 Eve)
As always, this has been a massive help, thank you for your brilliant narration and guidance. We’re due to do this next week so have taken screen shoots to assist me for this. Thanks again
Great explanation of how the conversion to a two way switch system with reference to the switches but I would also have liked to have seen how this additional configuration pans out with regard to the lamp unit. Obviously it is going to change the configuraiton there as well.
The only video I've seen that explains the presence of black and gray wires, but how then do I wire up my light fitting with the live, loop and neutral connector blocks in order to fit my light fitting? Edit: I've got a rose-something connection for my light fitting. Two cables are the standard blue, brown and earth, but one cables has 4 wires. Earth, brown, black and gray. I'm not sure where they should go as most videos for wiring fittings talk about all 3 cables having the basic 3 wires.
+abubaker khan Many thanks I am trying to put together a set of videos for level 1, 2 and 3 learners to run along side their courses. All the best GSH Electrical
Very good. All I had to to do was reverse the colours for the conductor as black and brown are our return colours. Got the green and gold right. Old school colours for active my dad once told me was red, white and blue. Not sure if that was an Australian rule of thumb or the beginnings of the international standards? many years ago. Also for good reason the terminology relating to intermediate is also a comfort.The U.S. terminology gets complicated when all points are exclusive in the count, baton lights and switches. Eg a three way is explained as two way switch and a baton light inclusive.
We don't use this method in iraq but we feed the com terminal by the hot line and the outbut of hot line become in L1or L2 and in the other switch will make com terminal recive L1or L2 and com go to the load
Great video but could you please explain why the permanent live (brown) was placed in the common terminal on the one way switch example but is then placed in L1 on the 2-way example. I know it will still work electrically but just didn't know why it wasnt kept the same for consistency. Many thanks.
Excellent presentation. Very thorough. One query regarding L1 and L2 connections where you say it doesn't matter which way around they are made. If 2 way switch #1 is connected differently to 2 way switch #2, then I believe it is not possible to leave the light off with both switches in the normally considered "off" position, (unless you install one of the switches upside-down, if you see what I mean). I suppose it doesn't matter, but some people are fussy that way!
Hi. It doesn’t matter which one is L1 or L2. If you did want down to be on in one of the configuration but won’t always be that way you can screw the fronts back with the switch spun round to be down is on. I hope that helps Gaz 👍.
Great video, thanks. I’m wondering how I can take a permanent live and neutral from a two gang switch setup to power a separate light on a single switch?
I wonder if you could answer a question for me. I know how to wire two way and intermediate switches, what I don't understand is how the electricity FLOWS in them. In a one way, power goes down from the loop to the common in the switch, and when the switch is thrown to the on position, the power shoots up through the switched live cable to the light. In a two way or intermediate, power goes down to the switch from the loop to the L1, the switched live goes to the L2, where then does the flow of electricity go when you throw the switch? When you throw a single switch, the power obviously goes from the common up to the light; when you throw the two-way or intermediate, the power is coming in at the L1, so when the switch is thrown, it would only go back to the light through the L2 and not to the black common, which only goes to the next switch - this is why I am confused.
After watching John's video which Gaz linked to I drew up the way current flows (or doesn't flow) through a 2 way with intermediate circuit as a diagram: flic.kr/p/2gS8NLQ
This is the most common set up but there is a setup where travelers only pass the the intermediary switch phase comes into 1st 3 way switch traveles goes into intermediary to l1 and l2 to the 3rd 3 way from which the comon goes to the load.
now, do you wire this like we do here in the US? having the switch leg AHEAD of the ceiling rose, or THROUGH the ceiling rose.... the example shown is the END of the circuit. (easiest method) thus having 3-Ways to wire it....
Is there a reason for using the loop in method instead of doing all of your terminations at switch height and not above your head which is more difficult ?
Hi. No reason but my students have never wired up a lighting point so we do all methods see playlist ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
If you had two switches both controlling 2 lights and you wanted to make one switch control just one light and the other switch control each light as a one way, would you just remove one strapper and locate the switch live for L1?
@@GSHElectrical thanks so much for your reply, your videos are amazing and always informative 👌🏾.. id love to have a chance to be taught by u and ur school, thanks again
What’s the purpose of connecting the 2 COM together ? Would this circuit still work without these connected ? It’s just the switches connected together right ? so no part of the light, CU etc ? In this set up...Little confused by that....
Hi I hope this question makes sense. In a new fit where there are groups of downlights such as a lounge. Running of a 4 way switch ( 4 groups of three) how do u eliminate the use of a ceiling rose as this is where most run the switch line from. Thanks
Hi great question. Have a look at some of my videos on feeding the switch ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html Thanks for watching GSH Electrical
I think you interchanged the L1 and C. Live current must go to C on the first switch and to the C on the second switch. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
Hi. The wiring for the 2 way and the 2 way and intermediate is correct for the 3 plate wiring method... hope your not mixing up the method for wiring in conduit 2 way switches see link ua-cam.com/video/7_5rnJ45gpI/v-deo.html Thanks Gaz
@@GSHElectrical Why would you do it any differently in a "3 plate" setup? I'm European (Belgian) and we always feed to or from the commons, L1 and L2 only being used for switch wires in between two-way/intermediate switches. It doesn't seem to save any wiring linking through the commons instead of the live or switched live, it only saves having to make a connection behind the switch nearest to the light, but you make a connection behind the intermediate switch(es) anyways so saving space in the back box shouldn't be an issue either. The way we do it and makes more sense to me (I leave out the earth connections in this description, of course they're there in real life): First two-way: COM to the lamp (brown sleeved blue wire), L1 and L2 to the next switch with black and grey, live linked through in the backbox to the next switch brown-to-brown Optional intermediates: black and grey from the previous switch to L1 and L2 on one side, black and grey to the next switch to L1 and L2 on the other side, live linked through in the backbox to the next switch brown-to-brown (repeat as many times as necessary) Last two-way: black and grey to L1 and L2, brown to COM Nowadays it's becoming standard practice to run quintuple 2.5mm² wiring over here, which allows to not only have earth and constant live behind every switch, but also neutral. In that case we use a brown sleeved black or grey wire as the switched live between the light and first switch. Because of the increased wire gauge and the presence of earth, live, and neutral, the lighting circuit can be converted to a mixed circuit by simply installing a larger backbox at one of the switch locations and adding a socket, without the need for further rewiring. This method also allows one of the switches to be converted to a wireless switch-receiver without the need for it to be one that uses batteries or stored kinetic energy.
My living room has 2 switches for one light, I mistakingly bought 2 intermediate switches can I somehow make them work? If so how would I wire the com into the two
I'm rewire my house, I bought 1.5 cable it has 3 wires, do I tape them together to reach my shower coz it's not longer enough, is the off switch at the main box thing out side or in side, and it's all different colours do I have to put in the same stuff
If you are going to use 1.5mm cable for shower i would suggest you contact a reputable electrical contractor before you kill someone or burn the house down
I don't understand why you need the two-way switches on either end, rather than just using intermediate switches. It would cost more to do it like this so probably not something you'd actually do, I just don't understand the theory of why it wouldn't be possible. I'm assuming a situation where the lights could be operated by the intermediate switches in between without the user ever touching the end switches, the idea of multi-way switching being that you can use (or not use) any of the switches you choose. If this is the case, why couldn't you make a permanent connection that does the same thing as one of the two possible positions of a two-way switch?
Hi. If you use a grid system you can select the type of switches you require www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/A_White_All/Grid_System/index.html Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
I would recommend using buttons instead of switches, and use a board-dimmer instead. This way you can not only turn on/off the lights at every switch/button location, but also change the light intensity at every location.
@@Candisa wrote: _"change the light intensity at_ *_every_* _location"_ Where you on about a dimmer at each location? Three locations? To have one dimmer control the light intensity, the _line_ can run to the common on the dimmer. L1 & L2 on dimmer to L1 & L2 on intermediate switch. L3 & L4 on intermediate to L1 & L2 of a two-way switch. The common on the two-way switch to the light. The dimmer has to be first with line running through it.
@@johnburns4017 I'm talking about a teleruptor system, but with a board dimmer instead of a teleruptor. This allows you to fully control the lights at all button locations (short push = on/off, long push = dim/brighten). You can use a two-way dimmer indeed, not by using the wiring diagram in this video (which works but makes no sense to me) but by running live to the COM of the dimmer and bringing the switched live back from the last two-way COM (which is how I always wire two-way setups). The downside of this is you can only control the brightness at the dimmer location. Board teleruptor/dimmer setups are superior to two-way(+intermediate) setups anyways imho, not only for ease and comfort of wiring and use, but it also solves the aesthetic problem of multiple switches neighbouring eachother facing different ways despite all circuits they control being on or off.
@@johnburns4017 Exactly, and the teleruptor can be changed with a modular dimmer, timer switch, home automation relay... which makes it a lot more futureproof than the classic two-way+intermediate way of switching. There are also multiple-gang buttons that only take up the wall space of a single switch. F.e. I can control 4 lighting circuits (2 dimmed) and 1 switched radial of sockets (decorative lights) plus I can turn off all the lights in the house with 1 push right by my front and garden door, all from a 6-gang pushbutton the size of a classic switch. The cost isn't that much higher either.
Very informative, as usual. However, when one opens up a three-way switch plate and is met (typically) with 6 million red wires, all this wisdom seems not to help!
hi mate great vid. i was wondering if you could help me i have come across this vid on youtube but i think it is incorrect and wanted your take on it. The person is showing how to wire a ceiling rose and a one way light switch. He is using twin and earth cable.. He is sugesting to wire the switch cable in the rose blue in to loop and the brown in to live and the earth into earth. and then on the switch side blue to common and brown to l1.is this correct? ua-cam.com/video/komOo7cAx-4/v-deo.html
+arfan jhangir Hi. It's best practice to use the brown as permanent line and blue as switching line identified with brown sleeping... however you can use any colour conductor as long as it's identified correctly at both ends. E.g. If we use a 3 core SWA as a single phase circuit brown line grey (blue sleeping) neutral and black (green and yellow sleeping) as cpc. Thanks GSH Electrical
2 years of college and ive never heard anyone explain this as good as you thanks!
Wow thanks for the positive comment and watching GSH Electrical 👍
Along with John ward these are the best tutorial videos around without a doubt
Absolutely brilliant thank you. I’m instructor myself and you applied that presentation perfectly
Thanks for the great comment and fantastic feedback. Gaz
Ya Welcome Gaz.Thank you
I teach public speakers to give presentations/instruction
ie : Slow and concise, Mastery of learning : 1/ Tell them what you’re going to tell them 2/ Tell them 3/ Tell them what you told them, and the benefits of., No Crutch words
etc .... Credit where credit’s due
Thank you
Please be safe
Roger
Very well explained. I wish you were my lecturer when I was at college back in 2000.
It may help some students if you also explained the "old school" singles method of wiring a 2 way/ 2way and intermediate where the permanent line conductor feeds the first switch and the switch line exits the last switch.
Great vid.
Conduit Loop-in Method for Wiring Lighting Circuits in PVC Singles in Conduit (How to)
ua-cam.com/video/tURG2VZd56w/v-deo.html
I have a series of videos covering wiring in conduit. Massive thanks for the great comment. Gaz 🦾
Very helpful reminder and brush-up before my AM2, thank you.
easiest tutorial yet made my consumer unit project 2 way switching via a pendant work well waiting for the hager consumer unit breakers here but not consumer unit
once again very well explained. Thats how I do it the black as common, two browns L1 and the blue and grey L2. I found it easy to remember casting my mind back to the 80s and a tv series called the Blue and Gray (American civil war). The old colours black 'n' blue as in beaten for L2. Its how I remember through association. Vulcanised Indian Rubber = Ohms Law.
Hi. I love the V I R memory aid 😁👍 all the best Gaz
Another great video.
Simple, to the point and easy to understand.
Excellent explanation, trying to figure this shit out on site for the 1st time between floors is a bit of a pain. Especially when your working with sparks that have been doing it for 20+ years and I'm a 1st year adult trainee that's never seen an intermediate switch😂. They just explain it in 1 min and expect you to get it haha, now I get it, cheers👍🏾
Thanks 😁
That was brilliant 🎉 thank you for this explanantion. I now completely get it 👍🏻💪👏👏👏
Very clear explanations....Thank you
Thanks 👍🏻
Brilliant videos thanks so much
Thank you GSH, understand that the common only terminates at the first and last switch and is joined to pass the intermediate switches (DR level 2 Eve)
+David Roche
David you are correct. We will be covering this in the next 4 weeks 👍
As always, this has been a massive help, thank you for your brilliant narration and guidance. We’re due to do this next week so have taken screen shoots to assist me for this. Thanks again
Good luck and thanks for the positive feedback. Gaz 👍
Another great video Gaz to help with my college assignment 👍🏻
I am so happy sir
👍🏻
Great explanation of how the conversion to a two way switch system with reference to the switches but I would also have liked to have seen how this additional configuration pans out with regard to the lamp unit. Obviously it is going to change the configuraiton there as well.
The only video I've seen that explains the presence of black and gray wires, but how then do I wire up my light fitting with the live, loop and neutral connector blocks in order to fit my light fitting?
Edit: I've got a rose-something connection for my light fitting. Two cables are the standard blue, brown and earth, but one cables has 4 wires. Earth, brown, black and gray. I'm not sure where they should go as most videos for wiring fittings talk about all 3 cables having the basic 3 wires.
Really helpful video for beginners 👍
+abubaker khan
Many thanks I am trying to put together a set of videos for level 1, 2 and 3 learners to run along side their courses. All the best GSH Electrical
A very helpful video. Thank you very much sir.
+m aziz
Hi. Thanks for the kind words GSH Electrical
Thanks bro that makes it crystal clear
David Cross thanks for the kind words 👍
Very good. All I had to to do was reverse the colours for the conductor as black and brown are our return colours. Got the green and gold right. Old school colours for active my dad once told me was red, white and blue. Not sure if that was an Australian rule of thumb or the beginnings of the international standards? many years ago. Also for good reason the terminology relating to intermediate is also a comfort.The U.S. terminology gets complicated when all points are exclusive in the count, baton lights and switches. Eg a three way is explained as two way switch and a baton light inclusive.
Very helpful
Fantastic , just what I was looking for . Thank you .
Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
Very helpful. Thank you.
Good stuff...and also brown sleeving on your chosen common (black).
Hi. Thanks GSH Electrical
Exellnt demo sir.well done.
Great video mate thanks
Nicely explained, thank you sir
Hi. Many thanks GSH Electrical
Very good as usual
Massive thanks 👍🦾
Excellent explanation gold star
Just a quick question my location is difficult for the intermediate switch it's hard to explain
Hello buddy.
As an idea, perhaps do a demo on wiring a switch wire to an intermediate switch. 😉
Thanks for sharing 👍
Driving me up the pole try to find differences between 1 and 2 poles CRAZY
We don't use this method in iraq but we feed the com terminal by the hot line and the outbut of hot line become in L1or L2 and in the other switch will make com terminal recive L1or L2 and com go to the load
Hi. Thanks for that 👍 try this link
ua-cam.com/video/k0u8P0PcGlQ/v-deo.html
All the best Gaz
thanks
Great video but could you please explain why the permanent live (brown) was placed in the common terminal on the one way switch example but is then placed in L1 on the 2-way example. I know it will still work electrically but just didn't know why it wasnt kept the same for consistency. Many thanks.
nice
Excellent presentation. Very thorough.
One query regarding L1 and L2 connections where you say it doesn't matter which way around they are made.
If 2 way switch #1 is connected differently to 2 way switch #2, then I believe it is not possible to leave the light off with both switches in the normally considered "off" position, (unless you install one of the switches upside-down, if you see what I mean). I suppose it doesn't matter, but some people are fussy that way!
Hi. It doesn’t matter which one is L1 or L2. If you did want down to be on in one of the configuration but won’t always be that way you can screw the fronts back with the switch spun round to be down is on. I hope that helps Gaz 👍.
@@GSHElectrical Thanks for the quick response! :)
Great video, thanks. I’m wondering how I can take a permanent live and neutral from a two gang switch setup to power a separate light on a single switch?
I have 2 gang videos in this playlist 👍🏻
Wiring Diagrams for Lighting and Motor Circuits ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUfm4SACOSOZigCeSxxC5xaO.html
I wonder if you could answer a question for me.
I know how to wire two way and intermediate switches, what I don't understand is how the electricity FLOWS in them.
In a one way, power goes down from the loop to the common in the switch, and when the switch is thrown to the on position, the power shoots up through the switched live cable to the light.
In a two way or intermediate, power goes down to the switch from the loop to the L1, the switched live goes to the L2, where then does the flow of electricity go when you throw the switch? When you throw a single switch, the power obviously goes from the common up to the light; when you throw the two-way or intermediate, the power is coming in at the L1, so when the switch is thrown, it would only go back to the light through the L2 and not to the black common, which only goes to the next switch - this is why I am confused.
I hope this helps
ua-cam.com/video/eKFICF88AkY/v-deo.html
All the best Gaz 👍
After watching John's video which Gaz linked to I drew up the way current flows (or doesn't flow) through a 2 way with intermediate circuit as a diagram: flic.kr/p/2gS8NLQ
This is the most common set up but there is a setup where travelers only pass the the intermediary switch phase comes into 1st 3 way switch traveles goes into intermediary to l1 and l2 to the 3rd 3 way from which the comon goes to the load.
now, do you wire this like we do here in the US? having the switch leg AHEAD of the ceiling rose, or THROUGH the ceiling rose.... the example shown is the END of the circuit. (easiest method) thus having 3-Ways to wire it....
Through the ceiling rose however...
ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
You could equally connect the supply live to one common and the switched live to the other common. Would there be any problem with that ?
Love it
Medhanie Gerezgher thanks
Need to include the light as well where do the cables go from the light or to the light?
Is there a reason for using the loop in method instead of doing all of your terminations at switch height and not above your head which is more difficult ?
Hi. No reason but my students have never wired up a lighting point so we do all methods see playlist
ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
If you had two switches both controlling 2 lights and you wanted to make one switch control just one light and the other switch control each light as a one way, would you just remove one strapper and locate the switch live for L1?
Great vid thank you
+MarniLondon
Once again many thanks for your kind message GSH Electrical
Why is the grey sleeved with brown and the black sleeved with brown please, little confused? Thanks
They are switching line (live) conductors 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical thanks so much for your reply, your videos are amazing and always informative 👌🏾.. id love to have a chance to be taught by u and ur school, thanks again
How do you split 1 switch operating 4 lights into 2 switches on the same plate operating 2 lights each?
Have you got a switch fed version of this please?
ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
Like this?
What’s the purpose of connecting the 2 COM together ? Would this circuit still work without these connected ? It’s just the switches connected together right ? so no part of the light, CU etc ? In this set up...Little confused by that....
Is it the same using the old colors eg red, yellow and blue ?
Steve Sthill 100%
Please make a video 3 gang switch 2way
Hi I hope this question makes sense. In a new fit where there are groups of downlights such as a lounge. Running of a 4 way switch ( 4 groups of three) how do u eliminate the use of a ceiling rose as this is where most run the switch line from. Thanks
Hi great question. Have a look at some of my videos on feeding the switch ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
Thanks for watching GSH Electrical
GSH Electrical thanks for the link after 2 hours of watching finally grasped 1 way 2way and 2 way plus intermediate lol
Hi Gary when you say “set” in the intermediate switch do you class “L2,L2” and “L1,L1” as a set or “L1,L2” cheers mate
I think you interchanged the L1 and C. Live current must go to C on the first switch and to the C on the second switch. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
Hi. The wiring for the 2 way and the 2 way and intermediate is correct for the 3 plate wiring method... hope your not mixing up the method for wiring in conduit 2 way switches see link
ua-cam.com/video/7_5rnJ45gpI/v-deo.html
Thanks Gaz
@@GSHElectrical Why would you do it any differently in a "3 plate" setup? I'm European (Belgian) and we always feed to or from the commons, L1 and L2 only being used for switch wires in between two-way/intermediate switches. It doesn't seem to save any wiring linking through the commons instead of the live or switched live, it only saves having to make a connection behind the switch nearest to the light, but you make a connection behind the intermediate switch(es) anyways so saving space in the back box shouldn't be an issue either.
The way we do it and makes more sense to me (I leave out the earth connections in this description, of course they're there in real life):
First two-way: COM to the lamp (brown sleeved blue wire), L1 and L2 to the next switch with black and grey, live linked through in the backbox to the next switch brown-to-brown
Optional intermediates: black and grey from the previous switch to L1 and L2 on one side, black and grey to the next switch to L1 and L2 on the other side, live linked through in the backbox to the next switch brown-to-brown (repeat as many times as necessary)
Last two-way: black and grey to L1 and L2, brown to COM
Nowadays it's becoming standard practice to run quintuple 2.5mm² wiring over here, which allows to not only have earth and constant live behind every switch, but also neutral. In that case we use a brown sleeved black or grey wire as the switched live between the light and first switch. Because of the increased wire gauge and the presence of earth, live, and neutral, the lighting circuit can be converted to a mixed circuit by simply installing a larger backbox at one of the switch locations and adding a socket, without the need for further rewiring. This method also allows one of the switches to be converted to a wireless switch-receiver without the need for it to be one that uses batteries or stored kinetic energy.
On a 3 way, if the switch line is at the intermediate switch what do you do
Is this way ok to do in am2 as of 2020
Check it with your instructor maybe the 2 plate method (I have videos on it). Gaz 🦾
My living room has 2 switches for one light, I mistakingly bought 2 intermediate switches can I somehow make them work? If so how would I wire the com into the two
Hi. Sadly it’s impossible. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
What about if you’re feeding the switches when wiring
This is feeding the lights
I'm rewire my house, I bought 1.5 cable it has 3 wires, do I tape them together to reach my shower coz it's not longer enough, is the off switch at the main box thing out side or in side, and it's all different colours do I have to put in the same stuff
If you are going to use 1.5mm cable for shower i would suggest you contact a reputable electrical contractor before you kill someone or burn the house down
@@umt1cardiff I got a drum of 16mm off Irish John down the pup, it's really stiff trying to fit it in the wall sockets,
Where is the feed wire? Am I missing something?
Can you do it with twin and earth only?
Hi have a looked at this ua-cam.com/video/wAJwzkMsmfE/v-deo.html
Thanks for commenting and watching Gaz
I don't understand why you need the two-way switches on either end, rather than just using intermediate switches.
It would cost more to do it like this so probably not something you'd actually do, I just don't understand the theory of why it wouldn't be possible.
I'm assuming a situation where the lights could be operated by the intermediate switches in between without the user ever touching the end switches, the idea of multi-way switching being that you can use (or not use) any of the switches you choose. If this is the case, why couldn't you make a permanent connection that does the same thing as one of the two possible positions of a two-way switch?
Hi I have a question is there a 2 gang switch which has one 2 way and the other switch is an intermediate switch thanks
Hi. If you use a grid system you can select the type of switches you require
www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/A_White_All/Grid_System/index.html
Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
How is one dimmer applied to this using an intermediate switch?
I would recommend using buttons instead of switches, and use a board-dimmer instead. This way you can not only turn on/off the lights at every switch/button location, but also change the light intensity at every location.
@@Candisa wrote:
_"change the light intensity at_ *_every_* _location"_
Where you on about a dimmer at each location? Three locations?
To have one dimmer control the light intensity, the _line_ can run to the common on the dimmer. L1 & L2 on dimmer to L1 & L2 on intermediate switch. L3 & L4 on intermediate to L1 & L2 of a two-way switch. The common on the two-way switch to the light. The dimmer has to be first with line running through it.
@@johnburns4017 I'm talking about a teleruptor system, but with a board dimmer instead of a teleruptor. This allows you to fully control the lights at all button locations (short push = on/off, long push = dim/brighten).
You can use a two-way dimmer indeed, not by using the wiring diagram in this video (which works but makes no sense to me) but by running live to the COM of the dimmer and bringing the switched live back from the last two-way COM (which is how I always wire two-way setups). The downside of this is you can only control the brightness at the dimmer location.
Board teleruptor/dimmer setups are superior to two-way(+intermediate) setups anyways imho, not only for ease and comfort of wiring and use, but it also solves the aesthetic problem of multiple switches neighbouring eachother facing different ways despite all circuits they control being on or off.
@@Candisa
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@@johnburns4017 Exactly, and the teleruptor can be changed with a modular dimmer, timer switch, home automation relay... which makes it a lot more futureproof than the classic two-way+intermediate way of switching. There are also multiple-gang buttons that only take up the wall space of a single switch. F.e. I can control 4 lighting circuits (2 dimmed) and 1 switched radial of sockets (decorative lights) plus I can turn off all the lights in the house with 1 push right by my front and garden door, all from a 6-gang pushbutton the size of a classic switch. The cost isn't that much higher either.
Done this b4 but forgot
2 way switching with twin & earth not 3 cord
with two switches why is the common linked to the second light and not the consumer unit?
Hi. Sadly I don’t understand the context of your question. Thanks for watching sorry I couldn’t help GSH Electrical
Very informative, as usual. However, when one opens up a three-way switch plate and is met (typically) with 6 million red wires, all this wisdom seems not to help!
Is this british or American?
British 👍
hi mate great vid. i was wondering if you could help me i have come across this vid on youtube but i think it is incorrect and wanted your take on it. The person is showing how to wire a ceiling rose and a one way light switch. He is using twin and earth cable.. He is sugesting to wire the switch cable in the rose blue in to loop and the brown in to live and the earth into earth. and then on the switch side blue to common and brown to l1.is this correct?
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+arfan jhangir
Hi. It's best practice to use the brown as permanent line and blue as switching line identified with brown sleeping... however you can use any colour conductor as long as it's identified correctly at both ends. E.g. If we use a 3 core SWA as a single phase circuit brown line grey (blue sleeping) neutral and black (green and yellow sleeping) as cpc. Thanks GSH Electrical
thank you for replying
+arfan jhangir
I love the electrical industry I am glad I could help all the best GSH Electrical
Thank you that was very helpful.
Hi. Glad I could help all the best GSH Electrical